Anyone Can Whittle! E-Book

• Herausgeber: Fox Chapel Publishing
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2023

Seitenzahl: 138

Beschreibung

Anyone Can Whittle! is a must-have whittling guide for beginning carvers looking to learn how to whittle, as well as advanced carvers seeking to build their existing skills and try something new! Featuring 30+ projects and high-quality, full-size whittling patterns, all you need is one knife, a few found items either from out in nature or around your home -- from twigs and basswood blocks to soap, avocado pits, golf balls, and more -- and this exciting whittling project book. Try a classic ball-in-cage whimsey, learn how to turn a golf ball into a face, an avocado pit into an owl, or a twig into a mini sculpture. Projects are small and simple, so they're easy to take with you and chip away at anywhere you go! Also included are helpful introductory sections on the fundamentals of woodcarving, including basic cuts, wood and grain, safety, and more. See how easy, fun, and creative whittling can be with Anyone Can Whittle! as your guide! Original patterns contributed by today's leading carvers, such as Guinness World Record holder Chris Lubkemann, James Miller, Nikki Reese, Tom Hindes, Sara Barraclough, and other talented and award-winning artists!

Leseprobe

© 2023 by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552.

Anyone Can Whittle! is an original work, first published in 2023 by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc. The patterns contained herein are copyrighted by the authors. Readers may make copies of these patterns for personal use. The patterns themselves, however, are not to be duplicated for resale or distribution under any circumstances. Any such copying is a violation of copyright law.

Print ISBN 978-1-4971-0342-9

eISBN 978-1-6374-1201-5

Library of Congress Control Number: 2023903477

The following images are from Shutterstock.com: TheBentSpoon (here, butternut grain); vvoe (here, birch grain)

To learn more about the other great books from Fox Chapel Publishing, or to find a retailer near you, call toll-free 800-457-9112 or visit us at foxchapelpublishing.com.

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

Because working with knives, gouges, and other tools inherently includes the risk of injury and damage, this book cannot guarantee that performing the tasks in this book is safe for everyone. For this reason, this book is sold without warranties or guarantees of any kind, expressed or implied, and the publisher and the author disclaim any liability for any injuries, losses, or damages caused in any way by the content of this book or the reader’s use of the tools needed to complete the projects presented here. The publisher and the author urge all readers to thoroughly review each section and to understand the use of all tools before beginning any project.

For a printable PDF of the patterns used in this book, please contact Fox Chapel Publishing at [email protected], with 9781497103429 Anyone Can Whittle! in the subject line.

Welcome to the wild world of whittling!

We’re glad you’re here. Whether you’re a brand-new carver or have been making woodchips for decades, the skill of whittling—or carving with a single knife—is worth picking up. As far as hobbies go, this one is cheap, since all you need is a knife and a block of wood to get started. It’s also great on-the-go; just stash the necessities in a pocket or knapsack and your next camping trip won’t want for entertainment.

In this book, we’ve gathered over 30 of our favorite whittling projects from the pages of Woodcarving Illustrated, Whittling magazine, and a few choice carving books from Fox Chapel Publishing. Start by reading through the Beginner’s Toolkit (here), which will walk you through safety and knife selection tips, basic carving cuts, sharpening techniques, and even a few stretches you can use to keep limber during a carving routine. Then jump into the projects, which progress in difficulty from simple 20-minute designs to more advanced carvings you can complete in a weekend.

Wherever you start and whatever you make, we know you’ll have a blast.

Happy carving!

-The Woodcarving Illustrated Team

Table of Contents

Whittling Basics

Beginner Projects

Man in the Moon

Family of Foxes

Arrowhead Blade Cover

Angel Ornament

Twig Tree

Soap Bear

Eagle Pin

Camping Fork & Spreader

Whimmy Diddle

Sitting Squirrel

Tiny Unicorn

Intermediate Projects

Egg Hedgehogs

Ozark Caricature Pin

Ball-in-a-Ball

Slip-Bark Whistle

Celtic Knot Letter Opener

Avocado Owl

Snowman Ornament

Alaskan Fisherman

Clover Chain

Bird-in-a-Cage

Wilma Witch

Cottonwood Bark Forest

Advanced Projects

Grumpy Soap Man

Sea Monster

Mocha Mary

Ball-in-Cage Rattle

Wooden Cup

Easy Spoon

Simple Tomte

Branch Rooster

Golf Ball Caricature

Human Figure

About the Authors

Selecting a Knife

If you have a small knife that is safe to carry in your pocket or pack, you can whittle just about anywhere. Folding knives fit the bill perfectly.

Many manufacturers make folding knives with blades that resemble those of classic carving knives. These specialty knives can get expensive. They are worth the money if you do a lot of whittling, but you don’t need to buy a specialty knife to whittle. We suggest you carry a second pocketknife in addition to your carving knife—or reserve a specific blade on your folding knife—for everyday use, such as opening cardboard boxes, to avoid dulling the blade you use for whittling. When selecting a pocketknife for whittling, keep the following factors in mind.

Carbon Steel Blade

Many pocketknife blades are made from stainless steel. It holds an edge for a long time and doesn’t corrode—even if you close the knife with a wet blade. But just as stainless steel dulls slowly, it sharpens slowly as well. Save yourself time and effort, and look for a folding knife with a high-carbon steel blade. It will be more expensive than a knife with a stainless-steel blade, but much easier to sharpen. Another option is a high-carbon stainless-steel blade, which combines the durability of stainless steel with the added benefits of carbon steel.

Blade Location

Although pocketknives with multiple blades and tools are useful for camping, avoid them for whittling. They are generally uncomfortable to use for long periods of time, and the blades fit for carving are seldom in the center of the handle. If the knife blade is not in the center of the handle, you lose leverage, which reduces your carving power and control. Instead, look for a knife with two or, at most, three blades, which should ensure the blades are conveniently placed.

Blade Shape

Look for a sheepsfoot blade—one where the tip of the knife is closely aligned with the main cutting edge, similar to a utility knife or standard bench knife. Many pocketknife blades have a drop-point shape, which centers the tip of the knife in the middle of the blade. The drop-point shape works well for general cutting purposes, but makes it difficult to carve small details. You can reshape a blade using sharpening stones and sandpaper, but the process is time-consuming.

Locking Blades

A locking blade keeps the knife from accidentally closing on your fingers, which is a good safety feature. However, as long as you are always aware that a knife could close on your fingers, you should be safe, regardless of whether or not your knife has a locking blade.

Choosing the Right Knife for You

Selecting the ideal pocketknife is a matter of personal preference. The size of your grip compared with the size of the handle will greatly influence how comfortable the knife is to use over extended periods of time. The ideal knife for your friend may not be suitable for you. Ask other whittlers for their opinions, but then hold and test several knives before making a purchase.

A sheepsfoot blade (top) is better suited for whittling than a drop-point blade (bottom).

Whittling Safety

There is risk involved whenever you handle sharp tools. A knife sharp enough to cut through wood will easily cut skin. Most cuts are small nicks that heal quickly and don’t leave a scar. However, it’s best to follow simple safety procedures to minimize the chance of serious injuries.

The first, fundamental rule for whittling is to be aware not only of where the blade is, but where the blade could go. Wood can change density at any point, and you need to change the amount of pressure you apply on the knife accordingly. Imagine pushing to cut through a hard knot only to find a softer section of wood behind it. The sharp edge will quickly slice through the softer area and cut into whatever is on the other side. The knife doesn’t care if it’s open air, a carving bench, or your hand.

Boy Scouts are taught to always cut away from themselves. While this is good advice, there are times when you want to cut toward your thumb, such as when making a paring cut. Always wear a thumb guard, wrap your thumb with cloth tape, or position your thumb far enough down on the project so if the knife slips, it won’t hit your thumb.

Because most cuts occur on the hand holding the project, carvers often wear a cut-resistant glove on that hand. Be aware of where the sharp edge could go. Always cut away from yourself when you are removing bark or large amounts of wood. When you are carving finer details, anchor your holding hand to the carving hand. Place the thumb of your holding hand on the back of the thumb on the knife-holding hand when doing a push cut, or rest the fingers of your knife hand on the fingers of your holding hand. Anchoring your hands adds stability and control, making it less likely that the knife will slip.

Some whittlers use their thighs as carving benches. A cut on your thigh can be serious. Carving on a workbench or table is recommended. If you prefer to carve on your thigh, invest in a strip of leather to protect your leg.

Without proper precautions, a slip of the knife can result in an emergency room visit. Follow these simple safety rules, and you’ll hopefully never require anything more than a bandage.

Wear a glove on the hand holding your carving.

Cut away from yourself to avoid injury.

Wear a thumb guard on your carving hand when cutting toward your thumb.

Wood Selection

Whittling materials can be small, foraged branches and twigs, fruit pits, scraps of milled wood, precut wooden shapes, bars of soap, and even golf balls. The projects in this book use a mix of all these materials, and while materials like soap or golf balls are interchangeable, certain types of wood are definitely better for whittling than others. Each project includes full Materials lists, and wood-based projects recommend the type of wood to use. This section explores a few of the woods commonly used for whittling.

For beginners, we recommend sticking with basswood until you are more comfortable with carving. Also make sure that any milled lumber you use is straight-grained and without knots.

Foraged Twigs and Branches—The best twigs and branches for whittling are dry (but not too dry), straight-grained, and unforked, have a small pith, and have little to no sticky sap. Always clean foraged branches and keep them from drying out too much by storing them in plastic bags in your freezer.

Basswood/Linden—This is the preferred wood for whittling and carving. Basswood is a cream-colored, soft hardwood that holds detail well. It’s a great beginner wood for carvers because it’s lightweight and consistent in grain, with no prominent air pockets.

Butternut—Butternut is a beautiful medium-dark wood that looks like a light walnut. It has a beautiful grain, so is often left unpainted.

Birch—There are several varieties of birch, but generally, it is a light-colored hardwood that is usually a bit harder than basswood.

Basic Cuts

Like most types of carving, whittling is a subtractive art—you remove all of the material that isn’t part of your vision for the final piece. For example, to carve a dog, remove all of the wood that doesn’t contribute to the shape of the animal.

Most whittlers use four basic cuts to remove excess wood: the push cut, the paring cut, the stop cut, and the V-shaped cut. Master these four basic types of cuts, and you’ll be ready to tackle a multitude of projects.

Push Cut

For the push cut, hold the wood in one hand. Hold the knife in your other hand with the thumb pressing on the back of the blade. Push the knife through the wood, away from your body. This type of cut is also called the straightaway cut.

Paring Cut

The paring cut, also called the draw cut, is the same action used to peel (or pare) potatoes. Hold the wood in one hand and the knife in the four fingers of your other hand with the cutting edge pointing toward the thumb. Rest this thumb on the wood behind the area you want to carve, extending it as much as possible. Close your hand, pulling the knife toward your thumb, to slice through the wood.

Scan the QR code for helpful video guidance!

Stop Cut

The stop cut is used to create a hard line at the end of another cut. Your hand position depends on the placement of the cut you need to make. Regardless of your hand position, simply cut straight into the wood to create a stop cut. Stop cuts are used to prevent a consecutive cut from extending beyond the intended area, and to free a chip of wood remaining from a primary cut.

V-Shaped Cut

To make a V-shaped cut, hold the knife the same way you do when making a paring cut. Anchor the thumb of the knife hand against the wood, and then cut in at an angle with the tip of the knife. Rotate the wood, anchor your thumb on the other side of the cut, and cut in at an angle, running beside the first cut. Angle the two cuts so the deepest parts of the cuts meet in the center. You can also use the center of the cutting edge to make intersecting angled cuts on the corner edges of wooden blanks, creating V-shaped notches.

Push Cut

Thumb-pushing cut or lever cut variation. For additional control or power, place the thumb of your wood-holding hand on top of your thumb on the blade. Then use your wood-holding thumb as a pivot while you rotate the wrist of your knife-holding hand.

Paring Cut

Pare with caution. The paring cut gives you a great deal of control but requires you to cut toward your thumb. Wear a thumb protector and be aware of the knife position at all times.

Stop Cut

Create outlines. Stop cuts create boundaries to keep other cuts from extending too far.

V-Shaped Cut

Think about creating a V-shaped groove. The V-shaped cut is two cuts working together to form a V shape with the cuts meeting at the deepest point in the center.

Sharpening Basics

Although it may seem contradictory, a sharp knife is a safe knife. A sharp knife requires less force to push through the wood, giving you more control and making you less tired. Plus, you’ll make cleaner, more attractive cuts. Many novice carvers get discouraged because they are carving with a dull knife.

Sharpening is a simple process: shape the tool with a coarse abrasive, work through finer grits to remove the scratches, and then polish the edge. You can use any abrasive, ranging from simple sandpaper to elaborate power sharpeners. However, it takes practice to consistently hold the blade against the abrasive at the correct angle.

First, in Making Your Own Sharpener below, we’ll show you how to make your own sharpening set and explain the additional materials you’ll need. Then, in How to Sharpen Your Knife here, we’ll walk you step-by-step through the sharpening process.

In addition to sharpening the blade, it is prudent to slightly reshape it for carving. Typically, the factory edge is a steep wedge. It is durable and works well for cutting rope and cardboard boxes, but you’ll need a flatter bevel for carving wood.

Making Your Own Sharpener

Sandpaper is the easiest abrasive to obtain, so that’s what we’ll use for our demonstration (see here). Start by gathering the necessary materials and making a set of simple, durable sharpeners.

1. Cut the boards. To get a good edge, the sharpening surface must be flat. We use medium-density fiberboard (MDF), which cuts easily and remains perfectly flat in all but the most humid environments. (If you’re carving in a very humid location, such as the Gulf Coast, use a piece of floor tile or float glass.) Cut four 3" x 8½" (7.6 x 21.6cm) strips of MDF on a table saw; this size makes the best use of a standard sheet of sandpaper and gives you plenty of room to sharpen while still fitting in a toolbox.

2. Prepare the sandpaper. You will need the following grits: 120, 180, 220, 320, 400, 800, 1,000, and 2,000. Cut a 3½" (8.9cm)-wide strip of each.

3. Assemble the boards. Use spray adhesive to attach the 120-grit strip to one side of a piece of MDF. Fold the sandpaper over the edge to create a right angle. Label the board with the grit. On the other side of the same piece of MDF, attach the 180-grit sandpaper. Repeat the process with the remaining pieces of sandpaper and MDF, labeling the ends, until you have four abrasive boards.

4. Get a strop and stropping compound. You can purchase a strop or use a piece of scrap leather attached to a piece of MDF. Any stropping compound will work. I use Flexcut Gold™ because it comes in a stick and is easy to apply.

How to Sharpen Your Knife

Begin shaping the bevel. Hold the entire length of the blade flat against 120-grit sandpaper, with the cutting edge facing away from you. Lift the back of the blade slightly, about 1/32" (1mm). Maintain the same angle as you push the knife away from you, toward the cutting edge, and along the length of the sandpaper.

Shape the other side of the blade.