Bearded Dragon Manual, 3rd Edition E-Book

Philippe de Vosjoli

• Herausgeber: CompanionHouse Books
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2022

Seitenzahl: 276

Beschreibung

Notorious for being one of the best reptiles to have as a pet, the bearded dragon is a well-known favorite. This new edition of the best-selling The Bearded Dragon Manual is packed with valuable information that will help you learn how to take quality care of your pet and provides a close look at all the characteristics that have made these attractive lizards so popular. From breeding, egg-laying, and basic genetics to creating a comfortable habitat, understanding typical bearded dragon behavior and personality quirks, diet and nutrition, and so much more, each detailed chapter will help bring you closer to this remarkable reptile! Also included are insightful answers to dragon owners' frequently asked questions on tank size, feeder crickets, shedding issues, tail rot, and more. New edition includes updated information on care and feeding, breeding, habitat, and habits, as well as eight new sections.

Leseprobe

3rd Edition

Bearded Dragon Manual

Philippe de Vosjoli,Robert Mailloux, Susan Donoghue, VMD,Roger Klingenberg, DVM, and Jerry Cole

The Bearded Dragon Manual 3rd Edition

CompanionHouse Books™ is an imprint of Fox Chapel Publishing.

Project Team

Editorial Director: Gretchen Bacon

Technical Editor, 3rd Edition: Susan M. Ewing

Technical Editor, 2nd Edition: Terri Sommella

Editor: Amy Deputato

Designer: Mary Ann Kahn

Proofreader/Indexer: Jean Bissell

Copyright © 2017, 2022 by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc.

Bearded Dragon Manual, 3rd Edition (2022) is a revised edition of The Bearded Dragon Manual, 2nd Edition (2017), published by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc. Revisions include updated photos and text, deletion of previous chapter on frilled dragons, and addition of new training and enrichment chapter.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of Fox Chapel Publishing, except for the inclusion of brief quotations in an acknowledged review.

Print ISBN: 978-1-62008-406-9eISBN: 978-1-63741-084-4

Library of Congress Control Number: 2021949757

This book has been published with the intent to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter within. While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the author and publisher expressly disclaim any responsibility for any errors, omissions, or adverse effects arising from the use or application of the information contained herein. The techniques and suggestions are used at the reader’s discretion and are not to be considered a substitute for veterinary care. If you suspect a medical problem, consult your veterinarian.

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CONTENTS

Introduction

1. General Information

2. Selecting Your Dragon

3. Making a Home for Your Dragon

4. The Importance of Heating and Lighting

5. Diet and Feeding Management

6. The Bearded Dragon as a Pet

7. Bearded Dragon Behaviors

8. Breeding Bearded Dragons

9. The Bold and the Beautiful: Morphs

10. Diseases of Bearded Dragons and Their Treatments

11. Training, Enrichment, and Fun

12. Frequently Asked Questions

Resources

Photo Credits

About the Authors

INTRODUCTION

I’m a relative newcomer to bearded dragons, but I have quickly fallen under their spell, in part because of a young beardie I met at a local pet shop. “Spike” definitely knew I was on the other side of the glass. He ignored his roommates and clearly wanted to interact with me, and I felt a twinge of sadness at having to leave him there. Obviously, this little guy had personality. I am not alone in feeling drawn to these charming lizards. I join almost two million households in the United States who find that bearded dragons make wonderful pets.

A recent study by the American Pet Products Association reported that 4.5 million households in the United States owned reptiles. A later article in Reptile Magazine by John Virata stated that of all the reptiles owned by U.S. households, 40 percent of them were bearded dragons, for a total of 1.8 million households. In all probability, many of these households have more than one bearded dragon. That’s a lot of dragons!

One thing to consider if you plan to get a bearded dragon is that bearded dragons are not “beginner” pets. You need to be prepared for your dragon before you get him. Don’t bring a beardie home and then decide you need to learn about him! Bearded dragons have very specific temperature and dietary requirements, and they need a moderately large space to call home. They may not be as demonstrative as a dog or cat, but they definitely have personalities, and they do bond with their owners. Because they don’t have fur, they may be ideal for those with allergies. And they come in a wonderful assortment of colors, or “morphs.” I still can’t decide which is my favorite.

An advantage to owning a bearded dragon as opposed to another type of reptile is that beardies are all captive-bred. When you buy a bearded dragon, you are not buying an animal that has been taken from its native habitat, with all the stress that implies. Captive-bred means you are getting a calmer animal and an affordable price.

On that note, it’s interesting that the United States is the largest importer and exporter of reptiles, according to John Virata’s aforementioned article. Captive breeding, with more than 10,000 hobby breeders, “has made the United States the major exporter of species that are not even native to North America.” Reptile breeding has gone from a hobby to a business worth more than a billion dollars annually.

With the expertise of renowned herpetologist Philippe de Vosjoli, top reptile veterinarians, and accomplished bearded dragon breeders, Bearded Dragon Manual has been a staple in the libraries of those who love this fascinating lizard. Now in an updated third edition, this comprehensive volume continues to offer essential, detailed information to bearded-dragon beginners and experienced fanciers alike. This expanded edition features a new chapter on training and enrichment as well as some “just for fun” tidbits for bearded dragon keepers. We hope you enjoy the delight, wonder, and discovery you will encounter as you bond with your bearded dragon.

Susan M. Ewing, former “Pet Pen” columnist, The Post-Journal of Jamestown, NY

CHAPTER 1

GENERAL INFORMATION

COMMON NAME

SPECIES NAME

Inland bearded dragon

P. vitticeps

Eastern bearded dragon

P. barbata

Rankins or Lawson’s dragon

P. henrylawsoni

Note: Hybrids of the Eastern bearded dragon and Lawson’s dragon are called Vittikin dragons.

“Bearded dragon” is the common name applied to lizards of the genus Pogona in the family Agamidae, several of which display a beard-like extension of the throat, which turns black when threatened. The bearded dragon most readily available to pet owners is the inland bearded dragon (P. vitticeps). Because the inland bearded dragon is by far the most popular, the information presented in this book relates to that species unless indicated otherwise.

Two other types of bearded dragon are commercially bred in very small numbers: Pogona henrylawsoni, otherwise known as Rankins dragon, is shorter than its inland cousin and has a blunter snout. It is also called Lawson’s dragon, Black Soil bearded dragon, Dumpy bearded dragon, and Pygmy dragon. Rankins dragon is smaller and more manageable than its larger cousin, and needs much less space (15-gallon [57L] enclosure versus 120-gallon [454L] enclosure). Rankins dragons are rare in the United States because of a very small gene pool. They are all descended from dragons imported illegally, so there is no new blood being introduced. As well, it does not reproduce as easily as the inland bearded dragon and thus is not readily available. The Pogona barbata, the common, or Eastern, bearded dragon, is found in wooded areas of Australia and is arboreal. It is more aggressive than P. vitticeps and is rarely offered for sale because it also has proven difficult to breed consistently and presents certain problems in long-term husbandry that still need to be resolved.

Eastern bearded dragon

Other species of bearded dragons include the Pogona minor minima, called the Abrolhos bearded, or Abrolhos dwarf bearded, dragon. These cousins of the inland dragon are smaller, being only about 8 inches (20cm) long, including the tail. They are named for the chain of islands where they are found—the Houtman Abrolhos—a group of islands off the western coast of Australia. The dragons are found on four of the 122 islands in the chain.

Pogona microlepidota, or the Kimberly bearded dragon, is rarely found outside of its home in western Australia and is another smaller dragon. Pogona minor mitchelli, or the Northwest bearded dragon, is rarely seen outside its native Australia and rarely ever kept as a pet. This is also true of Pogona nullarbori. The Nullarbor bearded dragon is named for the region in which it is found, the Nullarbor Plain in southern Australia.

Bearded dragons come in a variety of morphs, including normal brown-and-tan dragons. There are colors such as citrus, red, and orange, and “zero” dragons who are gray, silver, or white. They have no color or pattern. Hypomelanistic dragons can come in any color, but the color is lighter. A hypomelanistic dragon will have clear nails rather than black ones. In translucent dragons, the skin looks a bit translucent, and their colors tend to be quite strong. Sometimes translucent dragons have normal eyes, and sometimes one eye is black and the other is normal, but translucent dragons mainly tend to have black eyes.

Bearded dragons also have different textures. Normal beardies have stiff scales all over their bodies. Leatherback bearded dragons have smooth skin, with spikes only on the beard and along the stomach. Dunners have scales going in all different directions instead of all pointing the same way. A leatherback Dunner will have smooth, leathery skin, but the scales on the beard and sides will be going in different directions. Paradox dragons have no easily detectable pattern or color, and they sometimes look as if someone splashed them with paint. Dragons may also be designated by the type of markings, such as blue bar or tiger stripe, and breeders continue to develop new morphs for an even wider variety of bearded dragons.

An example of a red-orange dragon.

A dragon with blue coloration.

Bearded dragons are easy for children to handle if done properly.

IS A BEARDED DRAGON THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU?

When it comes to costs, the bearded dragon is not a beginner pet. A bearded dragon needs planning, and you really need to be ready for your bearded dragon before he comes home. You must have a heat- and humidity-controlled habitat prepared ahead of time, and your bearded dragon must go into this habitat as soon as you bring him home. Costs of equipment and supplies will vary, but be prepared for an initial outlay of about $400 to $500, including the cost of the bearded dragon. Once your dragon is settled in, you’ll have the monthly costs of food and supplements, and you should have a budget for the occasional veterinary visit if needed.

The cost of the bearded dragon itself will vary depending on where you get your beardie and what particular morph you choose. A rare color or pattern can add several hundred dollars to your initial expenses. Bearded dragons in a pet store, even those termed “fancy,” are likely to be cheaper than a dragon from a breeder. Depending on the pet store, employees may or may not know anything about the care and feeding of a bearded dragon. If you buy from a reputable breeder, however, he or she will be a good source of information and should be able to help with any questions you have after your purchase. Research breeders before you buy! Bearded dragons are relatively easy to breed, and a beardie owner who happens to hatch a clutch of eggs may not be any more knowledgeable than you are.

Did You Know?

Many customers who cannot or do not want to feed live insects will feed black soldier fly larvae, available under various brand names. They can be kept in the cup in which they are shipped, do not need to be fed or refrigerated, and have a shelf life of two to three weeks.

First and foremost, you will need somewhere for your new pet to live. If you are getting a juvenile bearded dragon, you’ll start off with a 20-gallon (76L) long tank. Try to find one on sale or used, because you’ll soon need to upgrade to a larger tank for your adult beardie, who needs an enclosure of at least 48 inches long by 24 inches deep (wide) by 24 inches high (122 x 61 x 61cm).

For the enclosure, you’ll need a heat source and a dome to direct the heat downward. Bearded dragons also need UVB light, which is necessary for their well-being and proper digestion. A linear UVB bulb should cover two-thirds of the habitat area. You will need a hood for the bulb, and plan to replace the bulb every six months.

If the temperature in your tank will drop below 70°F (21°C) at night, you will need a heat emitter. This is a bulb that emits heat but no light, so it won’t disturb your dragon at night.

A combination thermometer/hydrometer ensures that the temperature and humidity, respectively, stay in the correct range. Also invest in a temperature gun, which will help you get an accurate reading of the temperature on the basking shelf.

A basking shelf can cost you nothing if you build your own from sterilized rocks or branches, but even a purchased structure should not be too expensive. You’ll also need a hut for your beardie to hide in. Place it on the cooler side of the tank. Avoid a natural wood hut, as these are usually made of pine, which is not good for your dragon.

If you’re getting a young dragon, cover the tank floor with paper towels, which are inexpensive and make cleanup easy. Once your juvenile has graduated to his permanent home, you can continue using paper towels or switch to non-adhesive shelf paper or even tiles, which many owners like because they can help keep the dragon’s nails worn down. Tiles are an inexpensive option if you have your own tile cutter.

Feeding and supplementation are other expenses. A food bowl simply needs to be sturdy and have sides to contain bugs and worms; you may already have something suitable. Feeding a baby dragon costs about five times what feeding an adult costs, and you can lower your feed costs by raising your own crickets and/or Dubia roaches. Otherwise, it is cheaper to have your bugs shipped to you than to buy them from a pet store. You’ll also need D3 and a vitamin mixture, but a standard-size container of each should last almost a year.

A proper bearded dragon setup recreates certain aspects of its wild habitat.

Young dragons in their habitat, complete with basking area and plenty of natural features.

Cleaning supplies are fairly simple and should not cost much. You can find a spray bottle at a dollar store and make your own cleaning solution out of water and vinegar.

Bearded dragons benefit from a daily soak, so get a bottle of a water conditioner such as ReptiSafe™ from your local pet-supply store. This product neutralizes the effect of chlorine in your tap water and makes it safe for your beardie to soak in and drink.

Be prepared for an initial outlay of several hundred dollars, not including the cost of the bearded dragon, to start. Many of these are one-time expenses, and then you’ll just have monthly food costs. Don’t forget to budget for veterinary visits. An annual exam is a good idea, you’ll also need to visit the vet if your beardie is sick or injured.

Having said all that, bearded dragons are beautiful, active, entertaining, moderately sized, easy to handle, naturally tame (with few exceptions), and relatively easy to keep. Compared to smaller reptiles, they are robust and hardy. Compared to larger reptiles, they are relatively safe for children, although basic hygiene habits such as hand-washing must be practiced.

Size

Baby inland bearded dragons are just under 4 inches (10cm) when born and weigh about 1/10 ounce (2.5 to 3g). The length of adult dragons is typically 17 to 23 inches (43 to 58cm), and they weigh at least 3/4 pound (340g).

Because bearded dragons require substantial amounts of food, including live insects, they defecate frequently, so their enclosures and substrates have to be cleaned daily. Of course, there are ways to minimize the amount of time that cleanup takes. Using paper towels as a substrate makes cleanup fast and easy, but some owners may prefer the look of reptile carpet.

Although bearded dragons seem to present less risk of disease transmission than some other reptiles, you must practice simple hygiene if you are to share your home with a bearded dragon. Any reptile can carry the Salmonella bacterium, which can be shed in the feces and may pose a disease threat to humans, especially infants, toddlers, and those who are immune suppressed. You should never allow your bearded dragon on food-handling surfaces, such as kitchen counters and dining-room tables. You should wash your hands immediately after handling your bearded dragon. Wash your dragon’s food and water bowls separately from your household dishes. And, of course, keep your bearded dragon’s enclosure scrupulously clean. Sound judgment and common sense will keep your dragon a low-risk, valued member of the household.

NATURAL HABITAT

All bearded dragons originated in Australia. Although dragons currently found in the pet trade are many generations removed from their Australian roots, details about their habitat in the wild provide clues to proper husbandry in captivity.

Most bearded dragons live in relatively hot, arid regions of Australia, and thus require a warm, dry enclosure in captivity. However, water is mandatory and should be offered in shoulder-deep water bowls, through misting and/or soaking (depending on the age of the animal), and through fresh greens. A bearded dragon’s enclosure should offer temperature gradients, meaning that the dragon should be able to move from the hot basking side of the tank to the cooler side to lower its internal temperature when necessary.

Wild bearded dragons in Australia enjoy climbing and basking on rock piles and on the rails and posts of fences. When designing a home for your juvenile dragon, include a long, low, smooth rock—natural or artificial. For an adult, a large, thick piece of driftwood will act as a climbing branch and be happily accepted. Provide a basking light so the dragon can heat up, which stimulates feeding.

The male’s larger, broader head is easier to distinguish in adult dragons.

Pogona minor minima

LONGEVITY

Although there are a few reports of pet inland bearded dragons exceeding ten years of age, most live between five and eight years if they are initially healthy and raised in good conditions.

It is easy to fall in love with bearded dragons, but loving a bearded dragon is not enough when it comes to giving your pet the care it needs and deserves. Being an excellent caregiver is what will give your dragon the potential to reach its maximum life expectancy. The fact that you purchased this book says that you are well on your way to understanding your bearded dragon’s needs and providing an environment that meets those needs.

SEXING

Accurately determining the sex of baby bearded dragons is difficult; at best, it is an educated guess. Adults, however, show secondary sexual characteristics that allow for relatively easy sexual identification.

When trying to sex juvenile bearded dragons, people often examine several factors. The first trait to look at is the tail taper. The tails of females taper more sharply from the base compared to those of males, which appear just slightly thicker. This method is most successful when applied to the small percentage of individuals that show greater extremes of tail taper. The differences in tail taper often become more pronounced as bearded dragons grow older.

A young Lawson’s dragon.

The femoral pores are examined next. Prominent femoral pores on a 6-inch (15cm) juvenile would indicate a probable male. Femoral pores show as a running line of dots on the inner thighs of the dragons.

Head size is also possibly helpful in determining the sex of babies because males tend to have a wider skull base compared to females. This is not always true but, combined with the aforementioned methods, looking at the skull’s width can help you determine the probable sex of a baby bearded dragon.

German Giants

The German Giant morph was known to reach up to 26 inches (66cm) in length. While true German Giants are gone from the genetic pool in the United States, some lines still advertise this morph in their genetic mix, although it is likely to be many generations removed. If true German Giant size is important to you, request the sizes of the parents of offspring you are considering. This way, you should be able to tell if any German Giant remains in that breeder’s line or at least in those two parents.

Another technique has improved the accuracy of sexing small bearded dragons, but it must be performed with extreme care and is best done by an expert dragon handler. This method consists of holding a dragon facing out and lying flat on the palm of one hand while gently bending the dragon’s tail above the body plane with the other hand. You must perform this task gently. Carefully bending the tail toward the ceiling, above the body plane, will cause the skin on the ventral side (underside) of the tail base to be stretched back, which will show the outlines of hemipenal bulges in males. These bulges run directly caudal (toward the tail) from the vent (cloacal opening). A defined, central post-anal groove—two vertical bulges with a channel running between—is a good indicator of a male. In females, slight post-anal bulges may be visible, but they tend to run laterally from the vent, midline, like the arms of an inverted “V.” A probable female can appear flat right above the vent or can show one small bump. This method works best with experience and is usually complemented by other concurring observations, such as the male’s thicker tail and wider cloacal opening.

When sexing subadult and adult bearded dragons, you can apply the same method of raising the tail as described for sexing babies. As with babies, extreme gentleness is a must. Subadult and adult dragons can also be accurately sexed by pulling back the vent flap and exposing the cloacal opening. In males, the cloacal opening is significantly wider and larger than in females. Assessing the cloacal opening in babies is ineffective because males need to be older before the greater cloacal width becomes clearly noticeable.

In an adult male, you can evert one of the hemipenes by applying pressure with a thumb to one side of the tail base and rolling up toward the vent, which should cause a hemipenis to protrude. This process requires experience to perform properly and is sometimes applied to determine the sex of small bearded dragons, but it is not recommended because of the high risk of injury from crushing trauma if not performed with the proper level of experience and sensitivity. It is usually unnecessary to go to extremes to determine the sex of adults.

Many adults are also easy to sex from secondary sexual characteristics, including the aforementioned thicker tails/less tail taper and enlarged femoral pores in males. Also, adult males develop larger and broader heads as they mature. Males will also “display,” which means they show a dark throat (beard) and head-bobbing behavior, especially during the breeding season.

LIFE STAGES

Bearded dragons undergo six life stages. Understanding these life stages is important to successfully raising and maintaining bearded dragons for long, happy lives. The six life stages, with corresponding sizes and/or ages, are as follows:

1.Embryonic/prebirth (fifty-five to seventy-five days): In captivity, this period of development, which occurs within the confines of the egg, is usually spent in an incubator. However, genetics, diet, health of the mother, and incubation conditions can all play roles in health at this stage.

2.Hatchling (birth to about 5 inches [13cm]): Newly hatched babies are acclimating to life outside the egg. The first few days are a rest period and then, over the following few weeks, babies learn to drink, find small prey, and develop a routine of basking, eating, and sleeping.

3.Juvenile (5 to 13 inches [13 to 33cm]: Stages 2 and 3 are characterized by ravenous appetite, frequent feeding, rapid growth, and a tendency to mutilate other young dragons, including nipping off tail tips, toes, or other low extremities, when food is insufficient. If the babies are hungry enough, they may even try to eat each other completely, not just the extremities.

Eating and growing are the primary concerns of Stage 3. In this stage, dragons frequently perform arm-waving behavior, a type of appeasement and intraspecies identity display. A social hierarchy based on feeding vigor/assertion and growth develops into two levels: the tough, big, aggressive feeders and the shy, small, “feed after the others” individuals.

The primary differences between Stages 3 and 4 (subadult) are size and behavior. Stage 3 begins when the young dragons reach a length of 5 to 6 inches (13 to 16cm). Mutilation tendencies toward animals in the same size range continue. By Stage 4, cannibalistic tendencies greatly decrease, as does the frequency of arm waving, especially in males. Dragons grow rapidly and eat a greater percentage of plant matter. A pattern develops: the bigger a dragon grows, the more it eats, so the more it grows, and so on. Social behaviors are still limited and, if enough food is provided, mostly passive.

These tendencies to munch on each other if there isn’t enough food is one of the reasons, should you decide to have more than one beardie or hatch a clutch, that each dragon must have its own habitat. Smaller babies can be temporarily housed in smaller spaces until they have grown to 5 inches (13cm) or so.

4.Subadult/adult (13 to 22 inches [33 to 56cm]): Stage 4 lasts through the first three years of breeding activity. This socially interactive stage is characterized by a greater range of social behaviors, which are triggered by sexual maturity. The onset of sexual social behaviors results in well-defined hierarchies, with an alpha male becoming ruler of the roost. Males perform courtship, territorial, aggressive, and breeding behaviors. Females perform slow head-bobbing behaviors or push-ups to reveal their identity. Females also display submissive arm-waving behaviors during breeding. Growth rates at this stage decline because of hormonal changes and the diversion of energy and nutrients away from growth and toward breeding. Dragons achieve their adult length during this stage. The second year of Stage 4 will bring an increase in girth but usually no increase in length. After the onset of Stage 4, bearded dragons normally go through a brumation (winter shutdown period) annually.

Baby bearded dragons acclimate to life inside their enclosure.

5.Mature adult (fourth year of breeding until five or six years old): A gradual decrease in reproductive rate and little, if any, significant growth are associated with this stage of a bearded dragon’s life, which lasts two to three years.

6.Old age (usually by six to seven years of age): This stage is characterized by little or no breeding, at least in females. There is no measurable growth. Eventually, old bearded dragons enter a terminal stage of decreased feeding and increased lethargy that, over weeks or months, leads to death. It is wise to cut back on calories (but not all nutrients) with old dragons and pay special attention to providing adequate levels of water as well as comfortable surroundings and stress-free days.

HOW FAST DO BEARDED DRAGONS GROW?

In one instance, breeders raised a group of baby bearded dragons indoors, using basking lights (basking sites of 95°F [35°C]) and twist Vita-Lite fluorescent full-spectrum bulbs within 6 inches (15cm) of the dragons. They offered insects to the dragons three times a day and had a variety of plant matter available all day. They kept the lights on for sixteen hours daily.

The hatchlings averaged just under 4 inches (10cm) in length at the beginning. After fourteen weeks, the largest specimen had reached a total length of just over 14 inches (36cm). The smallest was 11 inches (28cm) long.

The rate of growth can also be affected by the quality of feeder insects. Another breeder raised babies from hatchling to eight weeks on different feeder insects. They fed one group gut-loaded crickets and greens, and they fed the second group Phoenix Worms® (the original brand of black soldier fly larvae) and leafy greens. They raised both groups under a ReptiSun 10.0 UVB bulb at a distance of 12 inches (31cm). By the end of eight weeks, the cricket-fed group reached an average length of 7 inches (18cm), while the group fed Phoenix Worms reached an average of 9 inches (23cm).

Be sure to find an experienced reptile veterinarian.

As a general guide, under this kind of intensive rearing regimen, growth will average 2 to 2 1/2 inches (5 to 6cm) a month for the first six months, and males can reach sexual maturity as early as five to six months of age. The growth rate begins to taper off after about six months.

Kept in optimal conditions, bearded dragons can grow fast, requiring more food than you may have realized and larger enclosures at an earlier age than you may have planned. Of course, the upside to this fast growth is that within a very short period of time, your bearded dragon can be sitting on your shoulder and becoming more involved with the family.

COMMON HEALTH PROBLEMS

As with many fast-growing lizards, the most common problem seen in immature bearded dragons is calcium deficiency associated with soft bones (metabolic bone disease, or MBD) or with twitches and seizures (low blood calcium, or hypocalcemia). Calcium deficiency results from several factors that may occur singly or together: improper vitamin/mineral supplementation; inadequate heat, which prevents the absorption of calcium supplements; an inappropriate diet or feeding schedule; and insufficient exposure to an ultraviolet-B (UVB) light source.

Two other diseases common in bearded dragons of all ages are caused by parasites. One is heavy pinworm infestation, which remains a significant cause of these lizards’ failure to gain or maintain weight. Another, more problematic, disease is coccidiosis, caused by a type of protozoan parasite. Both diseases require diagnosis and treatment by a qualified veterinarian (see Chapter 10).

Older pet dragons may suffer from gout, liver disease, kidney failure, or even cancer. The current knowledge about these disorders suggests that ensuring proper hydration, correct thermal gradients, and an appropriate balanced diet are the best potential preventive measures.

CHAPTER 2

SELECTING YOUR DRAGON

Females can be picky about both food and mates.

Probably nothing is more important for successful bearded-dragon keeping than the initial selection of your animal. You must pay attention and choose, to the best of your abilities, an apparently healthy dragon to start with, or you must work with a reputable breeder who will use his or her experience to choose wisely for you. You should also evaluate what you expect from owning a bearded dragon: is the lizard meant to be a pet that interacts with you, a display animal noted for its beauty, a dragon that will be bred, or some combination of these purposes? Will this dragon live with children? Other family pets? A caring and qualified breeder can help by selecting the right dragon for your situation.

GENDER AND NUMBER OF DRAGONS

Both sexes of bearded dragon make good pets, but males grow larger and are considered by some to exhibit more character, personality, and responsiveness. Of the color morphs, males tend to be brighter in color than females. Some females are more particular about what they want—“You are feeding me that again today?”—and may run a risk of egg binding. Of course, most people become completely hooked on these lizards, with their winning personalities and with so many colors to choose from, and rapidly wind up with a collection! After all, if you are going to get one bearded dragon, it doesn’t take much more work (and it can be much more entertaining) to keep two or three. Remember, though, that two or three beardies means two or three habitats, as each should have its own space, although you can keep one male and one female together if you plan to breed them.

On that note, how many bearded dragons should you get? If you a want a single pet, an individual bearded dragon will fare well enough, though males may display signs of social deprivation by bobbing their heads at you. This mainly occurs during sexual maturity, and many males calm down as they grow up and become regular coach potatoes. Females can be sweet and charming in their own right.

Because bearded dragons are social creatures, an adult male and female pair, matched so they are close in age and size, is an ideal combination. If you wish to breed, start with juveniles and raise them separately until they are ready to breed; this way, you will have a close bond with both dragons.

Some breeders maintain larger groups, using a ratio of one male to two females. However, in indoor enclosures, a 1:1 ratio is preferable because it reduces the stress of the breeding animals. In the 1:2 ratio, one female always seems to eat less and is in a more subordinate position.