Cabins & Cottages, Revised & Expanded Edition E-Book

Skills Institute Press

• Herausgeber: Fox Chapel Publishing
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Seitenzahl: 185

Beschreibung

Whether building a summer cottage in the woods, the hunting cabin of your dreams, or homesteading off the grid, this handy reference provides a logical and sensible approach to building permanent shelter in out-of-the- way places. Including everything from choosing and clearing a site and creating an electrical power source, to clearing the land and creating a foundation, this book offers instruction on building an A-frame cabin and a rustic log cabin with a framed roof. There is also a special section on designing small buildings to cope with Mother Nature, including earthquakes, heavy snow, high wind, and flooding.

Leseprobe

Images obtained from Shutterstock.com are by the following photographers: Ann Moore: page 158 bottom right; Anna Nar: back cover middle left, page 29; anthony Heflin: page 163 bottom right; AVN Photo: top borders throughout; B Brown: page 158 bottom left; Cool Vector Maker: Safety Tips symbols throughout; David Fonseca: page 160 bottom left; debra millet: page 159; givaga: page 161; Iris van den Broek: page 157; Jesse Seniunas: page 164 bottom right; JessHarrison: page 164 bottom left; John C. Clarke: page 163 bottom left; jtoddpope: page 163 top; LabDancestrokes: back cover top right, page 9; lastdjedai: page 158 top; ppa: back cover bottom right, page 164 top; Richard Bacon: page 162; shark girl: page 160 top; Silke Stahr: page 160 bottom right; solepsizm: front cover, back cover background, pages 2/3, 4/5; thieury: back cover bottom left; Whiteaster: page 63. From iStockphoto.com: dlewis33: back cover top left; Dorin_S: page 125.

© 2011, 2018 by Skills Institute Press LLC

Published and distributed in North America by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552.

Cabins & Cottages, Revised & Expanded Edition (ISBN 978-1-56523-967-8, 2018) is a revised edition of Cabins & Cottages (ISBN 978-1-56523-539-7, 2011), published by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc.

Portions of text and art previously published by and reproduced under license with Direct Holdings Americas Inc.

Print ISBN 978-1-56523-967-8

eISBN 978-1-60765-533-6

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Fox Chapel Publishing. | Skills Institute Press.

Title: Cabins & cottages.

Other titles: Cabins and cottages

Description: Revised & expanded edition. | Mount Joy, PA : Fox Chapel

  Publishing Company, Inc., [2018] | Includes index. | “Skills Institute Press.”

Identifiers: LCCN 2018010519 (print) | LCCN 2018012290 (ebook) | ISBN

  9781607655336 () | ISBN 9781565239678

Subjects: LCSH: Vacation homes--Design and construction--Amateurs’ manuals. |

  Log cabins--Design and construction--Amateurs’ manuals. | Cottages--Design and construction--Amateurs’ manuals. | Building--Amateurs’ manuals.

Classification: LCC TH4835 (ebook) | LCC TH4835 .C33 2018 (print) | DDC

  690/.837--dc22

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018010519

To learn more about the other great books from Fox Chapel Publishing, or to find a retailer near you, call toll-free 800-457-9112 or visit us at www.FoxChapelPublishing.com.

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

Before starting work on a build, and before attempting any DIY electrical installations, check your local building and planning regulations.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter 1: Making the Most of Your Location

Strengthening a House in Earthquake Country

Tying a House Together Against Wind

The Lay of the Land: Clues to Foil a Flood

Preparing for Deep Snow

Chapter 2: Getting Started

Generating Power

Clearing the Building Site

Removing Logs, Stumps, and Roots

A Foundation on Poles

Masonry Piers for Stronger Supports

A Continuous Block Wall

Chapter 3: Four Simple Structures

A Cottage of Prefab Panels

The A-Frame: A String of Sturdy Triangles

A House Suspended on Poles

A Strong Framed Roof

Ready-Made Roof Framing

Covering the Roof

A Rustic Log Cabin

Raising the Walls

Finishing the Building

Chapter 4: Adding the Amenities

Tapping a Water Supply

Picking the Right Pump

A Submersible Pump for a Drilled Well

Putting In an All-Purpose Sink

Self-Contained Toilets

Simple and Safe Waste Disposal

Heating with Wood

Gallery

WHAT YOU CAN LEARN

Making the Most of Your Location

Choose the safest spot to place your cabin and learn about elements that strengthen or protect it.

Getting Started

Before you begin building a vacation home, you need to prepare the site.

Four Simple Structures

Whether you want a sophisticated chalet or a rustic retreat, you can begin with one of these four basic structures.

Adding the Amenities

Learn to equip your cabin with some of the basic necessities like water, heat, and waste disposal.

Chapter 1

Making the Most of Your Location

Choosing a location for your vacation home is one of the most important decisions you will make. The features that make some vacation retreats desirable—such as a nearby lake, river, or ocean; or a region covered by deep snow in winter—can also make a location a poor building site. But even in these areas, the following chapter will help you choose the safest spot to place your cabin, and teach you to add elements that strengthen or protect the structure as you build.

Strengthening a House in Earthquake Country

Bolstering a Foundation Wall

Stiffening the Frame

A Trio of Earthquake Valves

Tying a House Together Against Wind

Reinforcing a Cabin

Measures for Existing Structures

The Lay of the Land: Clues to Foil a Flood

Preparing for Deep Snow

A Doorway Sheltered from Wind and Snow

Strengthening a House in Earthquake Country

Earthquakes occur in many parts of North America with enough force to shake a building to pieces. If you plan to build a vacation home in any of these areas (map, right), you will need to reinforce the structure.

A Solid Base

Begin with a masonry-block foundation (here), but stiffen it with a skeleton of ⅝-inch (16mm) steel reinforcing bars and fill the block cores with concrete grout (here). Vertical rebars cast into the footing provide a strong anchor; depending on the height of the wall and on local code, you may also need special masonry units called bond-beam blocks that permit rebar to run horizontally inside the walls and around the corners without interruption. Check codes to determine which courses need bond-beam blocks and horizontal rebar.

Make grade pegs 16 inches (400mm) long. To fashion the vertical supports, bend rebar (here) at a right angle 6 inches (150mm) from one end and cut it long enough to extend 25 inches (600mm) above the top of the footing. Bend horizontal bars sharply to turn corners. For skirting vents (here), order rebar prebent. For mortar strong enough to maintain a good bond during tremors, mix 2 ½ gallons (9.5 liters) of Portland cement, 1 ¼ gallons (4.75 liters) of hydrated lime, and 8 ¾ gallons (33 liters) of sand for each cubic foot (0.3m3) of mortar mix. Buy premixed grout, or blend 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of cement, 2 ½ gallons (9.5 liters) of sand, 1 ½ gallons (5.7 liters) of coarse aggregate, and ½ gallon (1.9 liters) of water.

Additional Protection

A strong foundation alone does not provide enough support for a cabin with stud walls. You can brace the walls with plywood sheathing (here).

TOOLS

• Maul

• Hammer

• Shovel

• Plumb bob

• Water level

• Rebar cutter

• Square-edged shovel

• Wooden float

• Chalk line

• Mason’s trowel

• Mason’s level

• Mason’s line

• Tin snips

• Brickset

• Ball-peen hammer

• Circular saw

MATERIALS

• 1 × 2s (25 × 50mm), 1 × 6s (25 × 150mm)

• 2 × 4s (50 × 100mm)

• Plywood (⅜" [9mm])

• Exterior plywood siding (7/16" [12mm])

• Ring-shank nails (2 ½" [65mm])

• Galvanized box nails (2" [50mm])

• Powdered chalk

• Concrete mix

• Mortar mix

• Rebar (⅝" [16mm]), supports, and safety caps

• Mechanic’s wire (16-gauge [1.2mm])

• Polyethylene sheeting

• Concrete blocks

• Bond-beam blocks

• Metal mesh

• Vents

• Grout

• Anchor bolts (½" × 8" [M12 × 200mm]), washers, and nuts

Seismic areas

In this map of North America, dark red sections represent areas where the risk of severe earthquakes is greatest. If you are building in these zones, the special building techniques on the following pages are advisable. In light red areas, major earthquakes are less likely but still possible; consult local building codes to find out whether reinforcement is necessary. Orange, yellow, green, or beige areas represent a decreasing likelihood of seismic activity, and in pink areas, earthquakes are rare and codes usually require no additional reinforcement for new construction.

Safety Tips

Wear goggles and a dust mask when mixing mortar. Put on heavy gloves and work boots when working with concrete blocks, and goggles to cut blocks or pour grout.

Bolstering a Foundation Wall

Supporting vertical rebar

Dig the footing trench and lay ⅝-inch (16mm) horizontal reinforcement (here).

Tie a string between the batter-boards to mark the center of the planned wall.

Cut two short pieces of rebar for cross ties and lash the ties across the horizontal rebar 16 inches (400mm) apart—or spaced according to building codes. Omit ties where you will lay solid blocks under girder pockets.

With 16-gauge (1.2mm) mechanic’s wire, lash prebent vertical rebars to the cross ties as tightly as possible (below).

When all the bars are wired in place, pour the footing (here), keeping the vertical rebar straight.

Place a safety cap over each vertical rebar to prevent injury while you are building the wall.

A Quick Mix for Mortar

You can simplify the job of preparing mortar with a rented portable electric mortar mixer (below). This model, with large tires for negotiating rough terrain, is light and easy to move. Shovel the dry ingredients into the drum, then add water gradually until the mix has the desired consistency. Position a container under the chute to catch the mortar when you discharge it from the mixer.

Building the first courses

Spread a 10-inch-wide (250mm) and 1 ½-inch-thick (40mm) mortar bed on the footing, then start building the foundation at each corner of the footing (here), placing the blocks over the vertical rebar.

Level the blocks (here).

Lay the subsequent courses in the same way (below), omitting the mesh at every third course as in a standard block-wall foundation, until a bond-beam course is called for. Add vents as necessary (here), placing rebar that has been prebent and cut to length to skirt the vents.

Making bond-beam corner blocks

Adapt a standard corner block to allow horizontal rebar to turn each corner in a bond-beam course: With a brickset and ball-peen hammer, chisel the middle web and the webs that will abut blocks at the corner (below) to the level of the webs in a bond-beam block.

Making a bond beam

With tin snips, cut pieces of metal mesh to fit over one core of each standard block.

Embed the mesh in mortar over every block core without vertical rebar, then lay a course of bond-beam blocks (below, inset) as for standard blocks, placing the modified corner blocks at each corner and solid blocks for girder pockets as for a standard wall.

Remove the safety caps from the ends of the vertical rebars.

On the webs of the bond-beam blocks around the entire course, set two rebars parallel to each other and 2 inches (50mm) apart. Bend the rebars to turn the corners and overlap 12 inches (300mm) at each end. Cut the rebars at the solid blocks below the girder pockets.

With 16-gauge (1.2mm) mechanic’s wire, fasten the overlapped ends together (below).

If the bond-beam course is the top course in the wall, grout it. If it is an intermediate course, wire a second length of vertical rebar to the end of each existing piece of vertical rebar, overlapping the bars 30 inches (750mm) and with the second piece extending 16 inches (400mm). Cover each one with a safety cap, and continue adding courses of standard block.

Grouting the wall

Before mixing and pouring grout, prepare to embed anchor bolts for the sill plate in the grout (here). If you plan to brace the cabin against wind with anchor-downs, make the bolts at door and window openings long enough to pass through the soleplates of the stud walls (here). Pour grout into all the cores containing vertical rebar and into the bond-beam blocks. Have a helper follow to compact the grout with a stick to remove air pockets (below). (The mesh placed over the cores without rebar will keep the grout from filling those cores.)

With a mason’s trowel, strike off the grout flush with the tops of the bond-beam blocks.

Stiffening the Frame

Adding sheathing

Assemble and put up walls in the same way you would for prefabricated walls (here), but instead of nailing on only siding, first fasten ⅜-inch (9mm) plywood sheathing. Space the panels ⅛ inch (3mm) apart and nail them to the studs, top plate, and soleplate every 6 inches (150mm) around the perimeter, and every 12 inches (300mm) in between, with 2-inch (50mm) box nails. If your cabin is in an area subject to earthquakes or hurricanes, check local codes; the sheathing may need to be thicker and the nails spaced closer together—from 2 to 4 inches (50-100mm) apart. Fasten 7/16-inch (12mm) exterior siding to the sheathing with 2 ½-inch (65mm) galvanized nails driven at 6-inch (150mm) intervals around the perimeter and at 12-inch (300mm) intervals along the intermediate studs, spacing the panels ⅛ inch (3mm) apart and offsetting their edges from those of the sheathing panels by 16 inches (400mm).

A Trio of Earthquake Valves

Three valves

Designed for professional installation, earthquake valves come in a wide range of designs and prices. Simplest and least expensive is the valve at left, which consists of a metal ball perched on a ramp. When the valve is jolted by a tremor, the ball rolls off the ramp and over the gas line, stopping the flow of gas. In the more sensitive valve at center, a metal ball triggers a latch mechanism that clamps against the outlet end of the valve like a closing door. Most sophisticated is the valve at right, which bears the seal of approval of Underwriters Laboratories, the fire-protection organization whose recommendation is most widely accepted by fire-fighting agencies and insurance companies. In this valve, a pendulum-weighted lower pin supports an upper pin set into a disk. When an earthquake strikes, the pendulum holds the lower pin stationary; the upper pin, dislodged by the tremor, falls downward and the disk plugs the valve seat.

Tying a House Together Against Wind

Violent winds can easily destroy a vacation home, literally ripping off the roof or tearing the walls loose from their foundation. If your cabin is in an area subject to hurricanes, such as the Atlantic and Gulf coasts, you can take steps to anchor the structure. Check local building codes to see if reinforcement of your cabin is required.

Reinforcing the Structure

For a cabin built with stud walls, use special hardware to anchor the studs and soleplates to the foundation, the band and header joists to the sill plates, the walls to the band and header joists, and the roof rafters to the studs. If you plan to take such measures, build a block-wall foundation (here), embedding bolts for the anchor-downs that will adjoin door and window openings (opposite) long enough to pass through the subfloor and soleplates. Frame the walls as for a prefab cottage (here), but drill holes through the soleplates for the anchor bolts, and raise the walls and install the hardware before nailing the siding. Until the siding is in place, support the walls with diagonal bracing attached to stakes driven into the ground (here). Consult local codes or a building professional for the type and placement of hardware needed.

Additional Precautions

When a storm threatens, you can weight down the roof of your cabin with sandbags for extra protection. Also board up windows, leaving one or two slightly open on the lee—or sheltered—side of the house to equalize the air pressure inside and out. During a hurricane the higher air pressure indoors can burst doors and windows out of their frames.

TOOLS

• Socket wrench

• Hammer

• Keyhole saw

MATERIALS

• Anchor-downs and lag screws

• Connector plates and nails

• Strap ties and nails

• Hurricane ties and nails

• Silicone caulk

• Rafter-to-stud connectors and nails

• Wall-covering repair materials

Safety Tips

Goggles protect your eyes when you are hammering.

Reinforcing a Cabin

Anchoring the walls

On each side of door and window openings, use a socket wrench to fasten the horizontal flange of an anchor-down to the anchor bolt in the foundation. Bolt the vertical flange to the outside of the king stud with the lag screws recommended by the manufacturer (above, left).

At every second stud, tie the band or header joist to the sill plate with a connector plate, fastened with the nails recommended by the manufacturer, then fasten a strap tie across the seam between each stud and the band or header joist with the recommended nails, filling all the holes in the strap (above, right).

Strapping the roof to the wall

With the nails recommended by the anchor manufacturer, nail one flange of a hurricane tie to a rafter and the other to the top plate of the wall (below).

Repeat the procedure to install an anchor at every rafter.

Measures for Existing Structures

Anchoring floors and walls

At every second stud, align a strap tie vertically on the wall siding over the sill plate, band or header joist, soleplate, and stud.

With the nails recommended by the manufacturer, fasten the tie to the wall, driving a nail into each hole in the strap (below).

If the siding is uneven or angled, as with clapboard or vinyl siding, cut through it with a keyhole saw to make a recess for the strap, then nail the strap directly to the sheathing. Seal the cut with silicone caulking.

Linking walls and roof

Inside the cabin, remove sections of the wall covering with a keyhole saw to expose every second joint between the studs, top plate, and rafters.

Nail one flange of a rafter-to-stud connector to the rafter and the other to the stud with the manufacturer’s recommended nails (below).

Repair the wall covering.

The Lay of the Land: Clues to Foil a Flood

Water can be a threat to a country cabin. Rushing in a torrent, trickling down a slope, or rising from a flooded river, it can damage or destroy the sturdiest structure. To some extent you can meet the danger by using a special method of construction—building a cabin on a set of high poles, for example (here), may raise the structure above flood levels—but the real key to protecting a cabin from floods is the right choice of a building site.

Avoiding Troublespots

Sometimes the choice of site is fairly obvious. The closer a cabin is to a river or lake, the more likely it is to be damaged in a flood. Elsewhere, the problems of correct siting are relatively subtle, and locations that seem ideal at first glance may turn out to be the most vulnerable. A site next to a peaceful stream at the bottom of a ravine or valley, for example, may look safe, especially if you set your cabin well above the water level. Actually, it is a site to be avoided. During or after a heavy rain, the stream is likely to rise rapidly and flow with great force, destroying any property in its path. Other danger spots, along with the safest locations to build on them, are shown on here.

Assessing a Site

A surveyor or landscape architect can identify potential flood problems for you, but you can do a good deal of preliminary detective work yourself. Start by asking neighbors and the area office of the Soil Conservation Service about the history of flooding at or near the site you are considering. Then study the site itself during a rainstorm. As the water runs off, you will see it flowing or collecting in natural drainage paths—areas that should not be blocked by any structure you build.

Vegetation and topographic features give additional clues to potential problems. Plants growing in a generally arid plot of ground indicate a spot that may become a short-lived pond or waterway during a heavy rain. Smooth, rounded boulders were probably shaped by water flowing over them repeatedly in the past. Level ground near creeks and streams is a likely sign of periodic flooding.

A steep ravine or valley

The cabin in the background is sited much too close to a stream running along the bottom of a narrow ravine. In a storm, the volume and velocity of the stream will increase, and water will rise up the sides of the steep slope. The cabin in the forefront, situated on a gradual slope well away from the stream, is safe from such flash floods.

An upland meadow

The cabin in the center of the picture is located in a depressed area that collects rainwater, and the driveway that links it to a main road cuts across the natural drainage path around the building site; in a storm, this roadway would channel water directly into the dishlike meadow. The cabin to the right is built on a higher site that drains quickly; its driveway follows the contour of the land, and underground culverts protect the driveway from a washout.

Near a river

The cabin in the foreground is built in the oxbow of a river, at the heart of a floodplain; in a heavy rain, the river might widen, completely submerging the site. The cabin in the distance, on a gentle slope well above the flood plain, lies clear of the probable flood pattern.

By a lake

On lakefront property, it may be tempting to build a cabin or cottage with the closest and best possible view of the water. But sand is a highly unstable surface on which to build anything of substance. The cabin close to the lake shoreline is vulnerable to high winds and shifting sands. The cabin on the right is positioned safely on slightly elevated and solid ground.

Preparing for Deep Snow

Before constructing a cabin in snow country, you must be sure that you will be able to reach it through deep snow and that the structure will remain comfortable throughout a long, severe winter. Improve access to the cabin by building a raised boardwalk (here); its sections can be separated and stored in the spring, then reassembled before the snow falls.

Locating the Cabin

Hilltops tend to be too windy for winter comfort; idyllic-looking “sheltered valleys” are generally reservoirs of deep snow and cold air. The best location for a cabin is on a south-facing slope, which gets light and warmth from the low winter sun. Do not place a building far from a plowed road unless you plan to get to it by snowshoe or with a snowmobile.

Cold-Climate Construction:

Continuous masonry-block foundation walls (here) are the warmest, and you can insulate them from the outside with packed snow; make sure the base of the foundation rests below the frost line. Insulate walls and install double-glazed glass for windows. Add to comfort and save on fuel costs by shielding the area outside the main door of the cabin with an enclosed entryway (here).

The roof of a snow-country cabin may need thick rafters and special bracing to support the snow, or a steep pitch to shed snow (here)