If the reader will excuse
me, I will say nothing of my antecedents, nor of the circumstances
which led me to leave my native country; the narrative would be
tedious to him and painful to myself. Suffice it, that when I left
home it was with the intention of going to some new colony, and
either finding, or even perhaps purchasing, waste crown land
suitable for cattle or sheep farming, by which means I thought that
I could better my fortunes more rapidly than in England.
It will be seen that I did not
succeed in my design, and that however much I may have met with
that was new and strange, I have been unable to reap any pecuniary
advantage.
It is true, I imagine myself to
have made a discovery which, if I can be the first to profit by it,
will bring me a recompense beyond all money computation, and secure
me a position such as has not been attained by more than some
fifteen or sixteen persons, since the creation of the universe. But
to this end I must possess myself of a considerable sum of money:
neither do I know how to get it, except by interesting the public
in my story, and inducing the charitable to come forward and assist
me. With this hope I now publish my adventures; but I do so with
great reluctance, for I fear that my story will be doubted unless I
tell the whole of it; and yet I dare not do so, lest others with
more means than mine should get the start of me. I prefer the risk
of being doubted to that of being anticipated, and have therefore
concealed my destination on leaving England, as also the point from
which I began my more serious and difficult journey.
My chief consolation lies in the
fact that truth bears its own impress, and that my story will carry
conviction by reason of the internal evidences for its accuracy. No
one who is himself honest will doubt my being so.
I reached my destination in one
of the last months of 1868, but I dare not mention the season, lest
the reader should gather in which hemisphere I was. The colony was
one which had not been opened up even to the most adventurous
settlers for more than eight or nine years, having been previously
uninhabited, save by a few tribes of savages who frequented the
seaboard. The part known to Europeans consisted of a coast-line
about eight hundred miles in length (affording three or four good
harbours), and a tract of country extending inland for a space
varying from two to three hundred miles, until it a reached the
offshoots of an exceedingly lofty range of mountains, which could
be seen from far out upon the plains, and were covered with
perpetual snow. The coast was perfectly well known both north and
south of the tract to which I have alluded, but in neither
direction was there a single harbour for five hundred miles, and
the mountains, which descended almost into the sea, were covered
with thick timber, so that none would think of settling.
With this bay of land, however,
the case was different. The harbours were sufficient; the country
was timbered, but not too heavily; it was admirably suited for
agriculture; it also contained millions on millions of acres of the
most beautifully grassed country in the world, and of the best
suited for all manner of sheep and cattle. The climate was
temperate, and very healthy; there were no wild animals, nor were
the natives dangerous, being few in number and of an intelligent
tractable disposition.
It may be readily understood that
when once Europeans set foot upon this territory they were not slow
to take advantage of its capabilities. Sheep and cattle were
introduced, and bred with extreme rapidity; men took up their
50,000 or 100,000 acres of country, going inland one behind the
other, till in a few years there was not an acre between the sea
and the front ranges which was not taken up, and stations either
for sheep or cattle were spotted about at intervals of some twenty
or thirty miles over the whole country. The front ranges stopped
the tide of squatters for some little time; it was thought that
there was too much snow upon them for too many months in the
year,—that the sheep would get lost, the ground being too difficult
for shepherding,—that the expense of getting wool down to the
ship’s side would eat up the farmer’s profits,—and that the grass
was too rough and sour for sheep to thrive upon; but one after
another determined to try the experiment, and it was wonderful how
successfully it turned out. Men pushed farther and farther into the
mountains, and found a very considerable tract inside the front
range, between it and another which was loftier still, though even
this was not the highest, the great snowy one which could be seen
from out upon the plains. This second range, however, seemed to
mark the extreme limits of pastoral country; and it was here, at a
small and newly founded station, that I was received as a cadet,
and soon regularly employed. I was then just twenty-two years
old.
I was delighted with the country
and the manner of life. It was my daily business to go up to the
top of a certain high mountain, and down one of its spurs on to the
flat, in order to make sure that no sheep had crossed their
boundaries. I was to see the sheep, not necessarily close at hand,
nor to get them in a single mob, but to see enough of them here and
there to feel easy that nothing had gone wrong; this was no
difficult matter, for there were not above eight hundred of them;
and, being all breeding ewes, they were pretty quiet.
There were a good many sheep
which I knew, as two or three black ewes, and a black lamb or two,
and several others which had some distinguishing mark whereby I
could tell them. I would try and see all these, and if they were
all there, and the mob looked large enough, I might rest assured
that all was well. It is surprising how soon the eye becomes
accustomed to missing twenty sheep out of two or three hundred. I
had a telescope and a dog, and would take bread and meat and
tobacco with me. Starting with early dawn, it would be night before
I could complete my round; for the mountain over which I had to go
was very high. In winter it was covered with snow, and the sheep
needed no watching from above. If I were to see sheep dung or
tracks going down on to the other side of the mountain (where there
was a valley with a stream—a mere cul de sac), I was to follow
them, and look out for sheep; but I never saw any, the sheep always
descending on to their own side, partly from habit, and partly
because there was abundance of good sweet feed, which had been
burnt in the early spring, just before I came, and was now
deliciously green and rich, while that on the other side had never
been burnt, and was rank and coarse.
It was a monotonous life, but it
was very healthy and one does not much mind anything when one is
well. The country was the grandest that can be imagined. How often
have I sat on the mountain side and watched the waving downs, with
the two white specks of huts in the distance, and the little square
of garden behind them; the paddock with a patch of bright green
oats above the huts, and the yards and wool-sheds down on the flat
below; all seen as through the wrong end of a telescope, so clear
and brilliant was the air, or as upon a colossal model or map
spread out beneath me. Beyond the downs was a plain, going down to
a river of great size, on the farther side of which there were
other high mountains, with the winter’s snow still not quite
melted; up the river, which ran winding in many streams over a bed
some two miles broad, I looked upon the second great chain, and
could see a narrow gorge where the river retired and was lost. I
knew that there was a range still farther back; but except from one
place near the very top of my own mountain, no part of it was
visible: from this point, however, I saw, whenever there were no
clouds, a single snow-clad peak, many miles away, and I should
think about as high as any mountain in the world. Never shall I
forget the utter loneliness of the prospect—only the little
far-away homestead giving sign of human handiwork;—the vastness of
mountain and plain, of river and sky; the marvellous atmospheric
effects—sometimes black mountains against a white sky, and then
again, after cold weather, white mountains against a black
sky—sometimes seen through breaks and swirls of cloud—and
sometimes, which was best of all, I went up my mountain in a fog,
and then got above the mist; going higher and higher, I would look
down upon a sea of whiteness, through which would be thrust
innumerable mountain tops that looked like islands.
I am there now, as I write; I
fancy that I can see the downs, the huts, the plain, and the
river-bed—that torrent pathway of desolation, with its distant roar
of waters. Oh, wonderful! wonderful! so lonely and so solemn, with
the sad grey clouds above, and no sound save a lost lamb bleating
upon the mountain side, as though its little heart were breaking.
Then there comes some lean and withered old ewe, with deep gruff
voice and unlovely aspect, trotting back from the seductive
pasture; now she examines this gully, and now that, and now she
stands listening with uplifted head, that she may hear the distant
wailing and obey it. Aha! they see, and rush towards each other.
Alas! they are both mistaken; the ewe is not the lamb’s ewe, they
are neither kin nor kind to one another, and part in coldness. Each
must cry louder, and wander farther yet; may luck be with them both
that they may find their own at nightfall. But this is mere
dreaming, and I must proceed.
I could not help speculating upon
what might lie farther up the river and behind the second range. I
had no money, but if I could only find workable country, I might
stock it with borrowed capital, and consider myself a made man.
True, the range looked so vast, that there seemed little chance of
getting a sufficient road through it or over it; but no one had yet
explored it, and it is wonderful how one finds that one can make a
path into all sorts of places (and even get a road for
pack-horses), which from a distance appear inaccessible; the river
was so great that it must drain an inner tract—at least I thought
so; and though every one said it would be madness to attempt taking
sheep farther inland, I knew that only three years ago the same cry
had been raised against the country which my master’s flock was now
overrunning. I could not keep these thoughts out of my head as I
would rest myself upon the mountain side; they haunted me as I went
my daily rounds, and grew upon me from hour to hour, till I
resolved that after shearing I would remain in doubt no longer, but
saddle my horse, take as much provision with me as I could, and go
and see for myself.
But over and above these thoughts
came that of the great range itself. What was beyond it? Ah! who
could say? There was no one in the whole world who had the smallest
idea, save those who were themselves on the other side of it—if,
indeed, there was any one at all. Could I hope to cross it? This
would be the highest triumph that I could wish for; but it was too
much to think of yet. I would try the nearer range, and see how far
I could go. Even if I did not find country, might I not find gold,
or diamonds, or copper, or silver? I would sometimes lie flat down
to drink out of a stream, and could see little yellow specks among
the sand; were these gold? People said no; but then people always
said there was no gold until it was found to be abundant: there was
plenty of slate and granite, which I had always understood to
accompany gold; and even though it was not found in paying
quantities here, it might be abundant in the main ranges. These
thoughts filled my head, and I could not banish them.