The ways of God in Nature,
as in Providence, are not as our ways ; nor are the models that we
frame any way commensurate to the vastness, profundity, and
unsearchableness of His works, which have a depth in them greater
than the well of Democritus.
Joseph Glanville.
WE had now reached the summit of the loftiest crag. For some
minutes the old man seemed too much exhausted to speak.
"Not long ago," said he at length, "and I could have guided
you on this route as well as the youngest of my sons ; but, about
three years past, there happened to me an event such as never
happened to mortal man - or at least such as no man ever survived
to tell of - and the six hours of deadly terror which I then
endured have broken me up body and soul. You suppose me a very old
man - but I am not. It took less than a single day to change these
hairs from a jetty black to white, to weaken my limbs, and to
unstring my nerves, so that I tremble at the least exertion, and am
frightened at a shadow. Do you know I can scarcely look over this
little cliff without getting giddy ?"
The "little cliff," upon whose edge he had so carelessly
thrown himself down to rest that the weightier portion of his body
hung over it, while he was only kept from falling by the tenure of
his elbow on its extreme and slippery edge - this "little cliff"
arose, a sheer unobstructed precipice of black shining rock, some
fifteen or sixteen hundred feet from the world of crags beneath us.
Nothing would have tempted me to within half a dozen yards of its
brink. In truth so deeply was I excited by the perilous position of
my companion, that I fell at full length upon the ground, clung to
the shrubs around me, and dared not even glance upward at the sky -
while I struggled in vain to divest myself of the idea that the
very foundations of the mountain were in danger from the fury of
the winds. It was long before I could reason myself into sufficient
courage to sit up and look out into the distance.
"You must get over these fancies," said the guide, "for I have
brought you here that you might have the best possible view of the
scene of that event I mentioned - and to tell you the whole story
with the spot just under your eye."
"We are now," he continued, in that particularizing manner
which distinguished him - "we are now close upon the Norwegian
coast - in the sixty-eighth degree of latitude - in the great
province of Nordland - and in the dreary district of Lofoden. The
mountain upon whose top we sit is Helseggen, the Cloudy. Now raise
yourself up a little higher - hold on to the grass if you feel
giddy - so - and look out, beyond the belt of vapor beneath us,
into the sea."
I looked dizzily, and beheld a wide expanse of ocean, whose
waters wore so inky a hue as to bring at once to my mind the Nubian
geographer's account of the Mare Tenebrarum . A panorama more
deplorably desolate no human imagination can conceive. To the right
and left, as far as the eye could reach, there lay outstretched,
like ramparts of the world, lines of horridly black and beetling
cliff, whose character of gloom was but the more forcibly
illustrated by the surf which reared high up against its white and
ghastly crest, howling and shrieking forever. Just opposite the
promontory upon whose apex we were placed, and at a distance of
some five or six miles out at sea, there was visible a small,
bleak-looking island ; or, more properly, its position was
discernible through the wilderness of surge in which it was
enveloped. About two miles nearer the land, arose another of
smaller size, hideously craggy and barren, and encompassed at
various intervals by a cluster of dark rocks.
The appearance of the ocean, in the space between the more
distant island and the shore, had something very unusual about it.
Although, at the time, so strong a gale was blowing landward that a
brig in the remote offing lay to under a double-reefed trysail, and
constantly plunged her whole hull out of sight, still there was
here nothing like a regular swell, but only a short, quick, angry
cross dashing of water in every direction - as well in the teeth of
the wind as otherwise. Of foam there was little except in the
immediate vicinity of the rocks.
"The island in the distance," resumed the old man, "is called
by the Norwegians Vurrgh. The one midway is Moskoe. That a mile to
the northward is Ambaaren. Yonder are Islesen, Hotholm, Keildhelm,
Suarven, and Buckholm. Farther off - between Moskoe and Vurrgh -
are Otterholm, Flimen, Sandflesen, and Stockholm. These are the
true names of the places - but why it has been thought necessary to
name them at all, is more than either you or I can understand. Do
you hear anything ? Do you see any change in the water ?"
We had now been about ten minutes upon the top of Helseggen,
to which we had ascended from the interior of Lofoden, so that we
had caught no glimpse of the sea until it had burst upon us from
the summit. As the old man spoke, I became aware of a loud and
gradually increasing sound, like the moaning of a vast herd of
buffaloes upon an American prairie; and at the same moment I
perceived that what seamen term the chopping character of the ocean
beneath us, was rapidly changing into a current which set to the
eastward. Even while I gazed, this current acquired a monstrous
velocity. Each moment added to its speed - to its headlong
impetuosity. In five minutes the whole sea, as far as Vurrgh, was
lashed into ungovernable fury ; but it was between Moskoe and the
coast that the main uproar held its sway. Here the vast bed of the
waters, seamed and scarred into a thousand conflicting channels,
burst suddenly into phrensied convulsion - heaving, boiling,
hissing - gyrating in gigantic and innumerable vortices, and all
whirling and plunging on to the eastward with a rapidity which
water never elsewhere assumes except in precipitous descents.
In a few minutes more, there came over the scene another
radical alteration. The general surface grew somewhat more smooth,
and the whirlpools, one by one, disappeared, while prodigious
streaks of foam became apparent where none had been seen before.
These streaks, at length, spreading out to a great distance, and
entering into combination, took unto themselves the gyratory motion
of the subsided vortices, and seemed to form the germ of another
more vast. Suddenly - very suddenly - this assumed a distinct and
definite existence, in a circle of more than a mile in diameter.
The edge of the whirl was represented by a broad belt of gleaming
spray ; but no particle of this slipped into the mouth of the
terrific funnel, whose interior, as far as the eye could fathom it,
was a smooth, shining, and jet-black wall of water, inclined to the
horizon at an angle of some forty-five degrees, speeding dizzily
round and round with a swaying and sweltering motion, and sending
forth to the winds an appalling voice, half shriek, half roar, such
as not even the mighty cataract of Niagara ever lifts up in its
agony to Heaven.
The mountain trembled to its very base, and the rock rocked. I
threw myself upon my face, and clung to the scant herbage in an
excess of nervous agitation.
"This," said I at length, to the old man - "this can be
nothing else than the great whirlpool of the Maelstrm."
"So it is sometimes termed," said he. "We Norwegians call it
the Moskoe-strm, from the island of Moskoe in the midway."
The ordinary accounts of this vortex had by no means prepared
me for what I saw. That of Jonas Ramus, which is perhaps the most
circumstantial of any, cannot impart the faintest conception either
of the magnificence, or of the horror of the scene - or of the wild
bewildering sense of the novel which confounds the beholder. I am
not sure from what point of view the writer in question surveyed
it, nor at what time ; but it could neither have been from the
summit of Helseggen, nor during a storm. There are some passages of
his description, nevertheless, which may be quoted for their
details, although their effect is exceedingly feeble in conveying
an impression of the spectacle.
"Between Lofoden and Moskoe," he says, "the depth of the water
is between thirty-six and forty fathoms ; but on the other side,
toward Ver (Vurrgh) this depth decreases so as not to afford a
convenient passage for a vessel, without the risk of splitting on
the rocks, which happens even in the calmest weather. When it is
flood, the stream runs up the country between Lofoden and Moskoe
with a boisterous rapidity ; but the roar of its impetuous ebb to
the sea is scarce equalled by the loudest and most dreadful
cataracts ; the noise being heard several leagues off, and the
vortices or pits are of such an extent and depth, that if a ship
comes within its attraction, it is inevitably absorbed and carried
down to the bottom, and there beat to pieces against the rocks ;
and when the water relaxes, the fragments thereof are thrown up
again. But these intervals of tranquility are only at the turn of
the ebb and flood, and in calm weather, and last but a quarter of
an hour, its violence gradually returning. When the stream is most
boisterous, and its fury heightened by a storm, it is dangerous to
come within a Norway mile of it. Boats, yachts, and ships have been
carried away by not guarding against it before they were within its
reach. It likewise happens frequently, that whales come too near
the stream, and are overpowered by its violence; and then it is
impossible to describe their howlings and bellowings in their
fruitless struggles to disengage themselves. A bear once,
attempting to swim from Lofoden to Moskoe, was caught by the stream
and borne down, while he roared terribly, so as to be heard on
shore. Large stocks of firs and pine trees, after being absorbed by
the current, rise again broken and torn to such a degree as if
bristles grew upon them. This plainly shows the bottom to consist
of craggy rocks, among which they are whirled to and fro. This
stream is regulated by the flux and reflux of the sea - it being
constantly high and low water every six hours. In the year 1645,
early in the morning of Sexagesima Sunday, it raged with such noise
and impetuosity that the very stones of the houses on the coast
fell to the ground."
In regard to the depth of the water, I could not see how this
could have been ascertained at all in the immediate vicinity of the
vortex. The "forty fathoms" must have reference only to portions of
the channel close upon the shore either of Moskoe or Lofoden. The
depth in the centre of the Moskoe-strm must be immeasurably greater
; and no better proof of this fact is necessary than can be
obtained from even the sidelong glance into the abyss of the whirl
which may be had from the highest crag of Helseggen. Looking down
from this pinnacle upon the howling Phlegethon below, I could not
help smiling at the simplicity with which the honest Jonas Ramus
records, as a matter difficult of belief, the anecdotes of the
whales and the bears; for it appeared to me, in fact, a
self-evident thing, that the largest ship of the line in existence,
coming within the influence of that deadly attraction, could resist
it as little as a feather the hurricane, and must disappear bodily
and at once.
The attempts to account for the phenomenon - some of which, I
remember, seemed to me sufficiently plausible in perusal - now wore
a very different and unsatisfactory aspect. The idea generally
received is that this, as well as three smaller vortices among the
Ferroe islands, "have no other cause than the collision of waves
rising and falling, at flux and reflux, against a ridge of rocks
and shelves, which confines the water so that it precipitates
itself like a cataract ; and thus the higher the flood rises, the
deeper must the fall be, and the natural result of all is a
whirlpool or vortex, the prodigious suction of which is
sufficiently known by lesser experiments." - These are the words of
the Encyclopdia Britannica. Kircher and others imagine that in the
centre of the channel of the Maelstrm is an abyss penetrating the
globe, and issuing in some very remote part - the Gulf of Bothnia
being somewhat decidedly named in one instance. This opinion, idle
in itself, was the one to which, as I gazed, my imagination most
readily assented ; and, mentioning it to the guide, I was rather
surprised to hear him say that, although it was the view almost
universally entertained of the subject by the Norwegians, it
nevertheless was not his own. As to the former notion he confessed
his inability to comprehend it ; and here I agreed with him - for,
however conclusive on paper, it becomes altogether unintelligible,
and even absurd, amid the thunder of the abyss.
"You have had a good look at the whirl now," said the old man,
"and if you will creep round this crag, so as to get in its lee,
and deaden the roar of the water, I will tell you a story that will
convince you I ought to know something of the Moskoe-strm."
I placed myself as desired, and he proceeded.
"Myself and my two brothers once owned a schooner-rigged smack
of about seventy tons burthen, with which we were in the habit of
fishing among the islands beyond Moskoe, nearly to Vurrgh. In all
violent eddies at sea there is good fishing, at proper
opportunities, if one has only the courage to attempt it ; but
among the whole of the Lofoden coastmen, we three were the only
ones who made a regular business of going out to the islands, as I
tell you. The usual grounds are a great way lower down to the
southward. There fish can be got at all hours, without much risk,
and therefore these places are preferred. The choice spots over
here among the rocks, however, not only yield the finest variety,
but in far greater abundance ; so that we often got in a single
day, what the more timid of the craft could not scrape together in
a week. In fact, we made it a matter of desperate speculation - the
risk of life standing instead of labor, and courage answering for
capital.
"We kept the smack in a cove about five miles higher up the
coast than this ; and it was our practice, in fine weather, to take
advantage of the fifteen minutes' slack to push across the main
channel of the Moskoe-strm, far above the pool, and then drop down
upon anchorage somewhere near Otterholm, or Sandflesen, where the
eddies are not so violent as elsewhere. Here we used to remain
until nearly time for slack-water again, when we weighed and made
for home. We never set out upon this expedition without a steady
side wind for going and coming - one that we felt sure would not
fail us before our return - and we seldom made a mis-calculation
upon this point. Twice, during six years, we were forced to stay
all night at anchor on account of a dead calm, which is a rare
thing indeed just about here ; and once we had to remain on the
grounds nearly a week, starving to death, owing to a gale which
blew up shortly after our arrival, and made the channel too
boisterous to be thought of. Upon this occasion we should have been
driven out to sea in spite of everything, (for the whirlpools threw
us round and round so violently, that, at length, we fouled our
anchor and dragged it) if it had not been that we drifted into one
of the innumerable cross currents - here to-day and gone to-morrow
- which drove us under the lee of Flimen, where, by good luck, we
brought up.
"I could not tell you the twentieth part of the difficulties
we encountered 'on the grounds' - it is a bad spot to be in, even
in good weather - but we made shift always to run the gauntlet of
the Moskoe-strm itself without accident ; although at times my
heart has been in my mouth when we happened to be a minute or so
behind or before the slack. The wind sometimes was not as strong as
we thought it at starting, and then we made rather less way than we
could wish, while the current rendered the smack unmanageable. My
eldest brother had a son eighteen years old, and I had two stout
boys of my own. These would have been of great assistance at such
times, in using the sweeps, as well as afterward in fishing - but,
somehow, although we ran the risk ourselves, we had not the heart
to let the young ones get into the danger - for, after all is said
and done, it was a horrible danger, and that is the truth.
"It is now within a few days of three years since what I am
going to tell you occurred. It was on the tenth day of July, 18-, a
day which the people of this part of the world will never forget -
for it was one in which blew the most terrible hurricane that ever
came out of the heavens. And yet all the morning, and indeed until
late in the afternoon, there was a gentle and steady breeze from
the south-west, while the sun shone brightly, so that the oldest
seaman among us could not have foreseen what was to follow.
"The three of us - my two brothers and myself - had crossed
over to the islands about two o'clock P. M., and had soon nearly
loaded the smack with fine fish, which, we all remarked, were more
plenty that day than we had ever known them. It was just seven, by
my watch , when we weighed and started for home, so as to make the
worst of the Strm at slack water, which we knew would be at
eight.
"We set out with a fresh wind on our starboard quarter, and
for some time spanked along at a great rate, never dreaming of
danger, for indeed we saw not the slightest reason to apprehend it.
All at once we were taken aback by a breeze from over Helseggen.
This was most unusual - something that had never happened to us
before - and I began to feel a little uneasy, without exactly
knowing why. We put the boat on the wind, but could make no headway
at all for the eddies, and I was upon the point of proposing to
return to the anchorage, when, looking astern, we saw the whole
horizon covered with a singular copper-colored cloud that rose with
the most amazing velocity.
"In the meantime the breeze that had headed us off fell away,
and we were dead becalmed, drifting about in every direction. This
state of things, however, did not last long enough to give us time
to think about it. In less than a minute the storm was upon us - in
less than two the sky was entirely overcast - and what with this
and the driving spray, it became suddenly so dark that we could not
see each other in the smack.
"Such a hurricane as then blew it is folly to attempt
describing. The oldest seaman in Norway never experienced any thing
like it. We had let our sails go by the run before it cleverly took
us ; but, at the first puff, both our masts went by the board as if
they had been sawed off - the mainmast taking with it my youngest
brother, who had lashed himself to it for safety.
"Our boat was the lightest feather of a thing that ever sat
upon water. It had a complete flush deck, with only a small hatch
near the bow, and this hatch it had always been our custom to
batten down when about to cross the Strm, by way of precaution
against the chopping seas. But for this circumstance we should have
foundered at once - for we lay entirely buried for some moments.
How my elder brother escaped destruction I cannot say, for I never
had an opportunity of ascertaining. For my part, as soon as I had
let the foresail run, I threw myself flat on deck, with my feet
against the narrow gunwale of the bow, and with my hands grasping a
ring-bolt near the foot of the fore-mast. It was mere instinct that
prompted me to do this - which was undoubtedly the very best thing
I could have done - for I was too much flurried to think.
"For some moments we were completely deluged, as I say, and
all this time I held my breath, and clung to the bolt. When I could
stand it no longer I raised myself upon my knees, still keeping
hold with my hands, and thus got my head clear. Presently our
little boat gave herself a shake, just as a dog does in coming out
of the water, and thus rid herself, in some measure, of the seas. I
was now trying to get the better of the stupor that had come over
me, and to collect my senses so as to see what was to be done, when
I felt somebody grasp my arm. It was my elder brother, and my heart
leaped for joy, for I had made sure that he was overboard - but the
next moment all this joy was turned into horror - for he put his
mouth close to my ear, and screamed out the word ' Moskoe-strm!
'
"No one ever will know what my feelings were at that moment. I
shook from head to foot as if I had had the most violent fit of the
ague. I knew what he meant by that one word well enough - I knew
what he wished to make me understand. With the wind that now drove
us on, we were bound for the whirl of the Strm, and nothing could
save us !
"You perceive that in crossing the Strm channel, we always
went a long way up above the whirl, even in the calmest weather,
and then had to wait and watch carefully for the slack - but now we
were driving right upon the pool itself, and in such a hurricane as
this! 'To be sure,' I thought, 'we shall get there just about the
slack - there is some little hope in that' - but in the next moment
I cursed myself for being so great a fool as to dream of hope at
all. I knew very well that we were doomed, had we been ten times a
ninety-gun ship.
"By this time the first fury of the tempest had spent itself,
or perhaps we did not feel it so much, as we scudded before it, but
at all events the seas, which at first had been kept down by the
wind, and lay flat and frothing, now got up into absolute
mountains. A singular change, too, had come over the heavens.
Around in every direction it was still as black as pitch, but
nearly overhead there burst out, all at once, a circular rift of
clear sky - as clear as I ever saw - and of a deep bright blue -
and through it there blazed forth the full moon with a lustre that
I never before knew her to wear. She lit up every thing about us
with the greatest distinctness - but, oh God, what a scene it was
to light up!
"I now made one or two attempts to speak to my brother - but,
in some manner which I could not understand, the din had so
increased that I could not make him hear a single word, although I
screamed at the top of my voice in his ear. Presently he shook his
head, looking as pale as death, and held up one of his finger, as
if to say 'listen! '
"At first I could not make out what he meant - but soon a
hideous thought flashed upon me. I dragged my watch from its fob.
It was not going. I glanced at its face by the moonlight, and then
burst into tears as I flung it far away into the ocean. It had run
down at seven o'clock! We were behind the time of the slack, and
the whirl of the Strm was in full fury!
"When a boat is well built, properly trimmed, and not deep
laden, the waves in a strong gale, when she is going large, seem
always to slip from beneath her - which appears very strange to a
landsman - and this is what is called riding, in sea phrase. Well,
so far we had ridden the swells very cleverly ; but presently a
gigantic sea happened to take us right under the counter, and bore
us with it as it rose - up - up - as if into the sky. I would not
have believed that any wave could rise so high. And then down we
came with a sweep, a slide, and a plunge, that made me feel sick
and dizzy, as if I was falling from some lofty mountain-top in a
dream. But while we were up I had thrown a quick glance around -
and that one glance was all sufficient. I saw our exact position in
an instant. The Moskoe-Strm whirlpool was about a quarter of a mile
dead ahead - but no more like the every-day Moskoe-Strm, than the
whirl as you now see it is like a mill-race. If I had not known
where we were, and what we had to expect, I should not have
recognised the place at all. As it was, I involuntarily closed my
eyes in horror. The lids clenched themselves together as if in a
spasm.
"It could not have been more than two minutes afterward until
we suddenly felt the waves subside, and were enveloped in foam. The
boat made a sharp half turn to larboard, and then shot off in its
new direction like a thunderbolt. At the same moment the roaring
noise of the water was completely drowned in a kind of shrill
shriek - such a sound as you might imagine given out by the
waste-pipes of many thousand steam-vessels, letting off their steam
all together. We were now in the belt of surf that always surrounds
the whirl ; and I thought, of course, that another moment would
plunge us into the abyss - down which we could only see
indistinctly on account of the amazing velocity with which we wore
borne along. The boat did not seem to sink into the water at all,
but to skim like an air-bubble upon the surface of the surge. Her
starboard side was next the whirl, and on the larboard arose the
world of ocean we had left. It stood like a huge writhing wall
between us and the horizon.
"It may appear strange, but now, when we were in the very jaws
of the gulf, I felt more composed than when we were only
approaching it. Having made up my mind to hope no more, I got rid
of a great deal of that terror which unmanned me at first. I
suppose it was despair that strung my nerves.
"It may look like boasting - but what I tell you is truth - I
began to reflect how magnificent a thing it was to die in such a
manner, and how foolish it was in me to think of so paltry a
consideration as my own individual life, in view of so wonderful a
manifestation of God's power. I do believe that I blushed with
shame when this idea crossed my mind. After a little while I became
possessed with the keenest curiosity about the whirl itself. I
positively felt a wish to explore its depths, even at the sacrifice
I was going to make ; and my principal grief was that I should
never be able to tell my old companions on shore about the
mysteries I should see. These, no doubt, were singular fancies to
occupy a man's mind in such extremity - and I have often thought
since, that the revolutions of the boat around the pool might have
rendered me a little light-headed.
"There was another circumstance which tended to restore my
self-possession ; and this was the cessation of the wind, which
could not reach us in our present situation - for, as you saw
yourself, the belt of surf is considerably lower than the general
bed of the ocean, and this latter now towered above us, a high,
black, mountainous ridge. If you have never been at sea in a heavy
gale, you can form no idea of the confusion of mind occasioned by
the wind and spray together. They blind, deafen, and strangle you,
and take away all power of action or reflection. But we were now,
in a great measure, rid of these annoyances - just us
death-condemned felons in prison are allowed petty indulgences,
forbidden them while their doom is yet uncertain.
"How often we made the circuit of the belt it is impossible to
say. We careered round and round for perhaps an hour, flying rather
than floating, getting gradually more and more into the middle of
the surge, and then nearer and nearer to its horrible inner edge.
All this time I had never let go of the ring-bolt. My brother was
at the stern, holding on to a small empty water-cask which had been
securely lashed under the coop of the counter, and was the only
thing on deck that had not been swept overboard when the gale first
took us. As we approached the brink of the pit he let go his hold
upon this, and made for the ring, from which, in the agony of his
terror, he endeavored to force my hands, as it was not large enough
to afford us both a secure grasp. I never felt deeper grief than
when I saw him attempt this act - although I knew he was a madman
when he did it - a raving maniac through sheer fright. I did not
care, however, to contest the point with him. I knew it could make
no difference whether either of us held on at all ; so I let him
have the bolt, and went astern to the cask. This there was no great
difficulty in doing ; for the smack flew round steadily enough, and
upon an even keel - only swaying to and fro, with the immense
sweeps and swelters of the whirl. Scarcely had I secured myself in
my new position, when we gave a wild lurch to starboard, and rushed
headlong into the abyss. I muttered a hurried prayer to God, and
thought all was over.
"As I felt the sickening sweep of the descent, I had
instinctively tightened my hold upon the barrel, and closed my
eyes. For some seconds I dared not open them - while I expected
instant destruction, and wondered that I was not already in my
death-struggles with the water. But moment after moment elapsed. I
still lived. The sense of falling had ceased ; and the motion of
the vessel seemed much as it had been before, while in the belt of
foam, with the exception that she now lay more along. I took
courage, and looked once again upon the scene.
"Never shall I forget the sensations of awe, horror, and
admiration with which I gazed about me. The boat appeared to be
hanging, as if by magic, midway down, upon the interior surface of
a funnel vast in circumference, prodigious in depth, and whose
perfectly smooth sides might have been mistaken for ebony, but for
the bewildering rapidity with which they spun around, and for the
gleaming and ghastly radiance they shot forth, as the rays of the
full moon, from that circular rift amid the clouds which I have
already described, streamed in a flood of golden glory along the
black walls, and far away down into the inmost recesses of the
abyss.