Eggs All Day E-Book

Ryland Peters & Small

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Beschreibung

You'll be spoilt for choice with this eclectic collection of 100 recipes that make the most of the versatility of eggs. There's no doubt about it; we love our eggs! They form a major part of our daily diets, whether eaten as a high-protein breakfast or brunch, whipped up into a nourishing lunch and dinner, or even transformed into delicious desserts and bakes. This book begins with a guide to basic egg cookery; you'll learn to boil, poach, fry, scramble, coddle and bake your eggs, as well as a few classic skills for separating and whisking yolks and whites. Once you've mastered these basics, delicious recipes to try include everyday plates like a Steak & Egg Brunch Skillet or Spanish Omelette, to the more adventurous Korean Bibimbap or Turkish Menemen. Sweet treats include everything from Baked Alaska to Sponge Cake and finally things really get interesting with protein smoothies and even foamy egg-white cocktails!

Leseprobe

EGGS ALL DAY

EGGS ALL DAY

100 recipes to take you from dawn to dusk

Designer Barbara Zúñiga

Picture Manager Christina Borsi

Commissioning Editor Stephanie Milner

Head of Production Patricia Harrington

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Publisher Cindy Richards

Indexer Hilary Bird

First published in 2016. This revised

edition published in 2021 by

Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields,

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 E 116th St,

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Recipe collection compiled by Stephanie Milner.

Text copyright © Valerie Aikman-Smith, Miranda Ballard, Ghillie Başan, Fiona Beckett, Vatcharin Bhumichitr, Jordan Bourke, Maxine Clark, Linda Collister, Ross Dobson, Tori Finch, Ben Fordham & Felipe Fuentes Cruz, Tonia George, Tori Haschka, Carol Hilker, Rachael Anne Hill, Jennifer Joyce, Jenny Linford, Claire & Lucy McDonald, Jane Mason, Dan May, Hannah Miles, Miisa Mink, Louise Pickford, Isidora Popovic, Ben Reed, Shelagh Ryan, Laura Santtini, Milli Taylor, Will Torrent, Fran Warde, Laura Washburn, William Yeoward and Ryland Peters & Small 2016, 2021

Design and photographs copyright © Ryland Peters & Small 2016, 2021. For full recipe and photography credits, see page 160.

ISBN: 978-1-78879-346-9

E-ISBN: 978-1-78879-364-3

Printed in China

The authors’ moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library. US Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data has been applied for.

notes

Both British (Metric) and American (Imperial plus US cups) are included in these recipes for your convenience, however it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

All eggs are medium (UK) or large (US), unless specified as large, in which case US extra-large should be used. Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.

Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

food safety notice

The information contained within this book is intended as a general guide to cooking with eggs at home based on the authors’ recipe development and experience. Although all reasonable care has been taken in the preparation of this book, neither the publishers nor the authors can accept any liability for any consequence from the use thereof, or the information contained therein. Please consult an up-to-date government source on food safety for further information.

contents

introduction

eggsentials

breakfast & brunch

appetizers

main meals

desserts & drinks

index

credits

introduction

Eggs, eggs, eggs, eggs, eggs. There are hundreds of ways to prepare, cook with, bake with and even drink eggs, and in this collection of 100 ways with eggs you’ll transform a simple scramble into something spectacular, use hard- and soft-boiled/cooked eggs in unusual ways, poach, fry, bake, coddle and much, much more.

Eggs form a nutritious part of our daily diet, whether as the mainstay of breakfasts, in salads, boiled and chopped and as mayonnaise dressings, atop soups or as hot lunches like quiches and frittatas. They can be baked for dinner or transformed into an array of sweet treats, such as meringues, soufflés, cakes and custards. With the rise in popularity of high-protein diets and the irresistible ooze of just-cooked egg yolk, there’s no doubt about it; we love eggs!

Both the white and yolk of an egg are rich in nutrients. They are a very good source of inexpensive, high-quality protein. The whites are rich sources of selenium, vitamins D, B6, B12 and minerals such as zinc, iron and copper. Egg yolks contain more calories and fat. They are the source of cholesterol, vitamins A, D, E and K, and lecithin – the compound that enables emulsification in recipes such as Hollandaise sauce (see page 16) or mayonnaise (see page 124). Some brands of egg now contain higher levels of Omega-3 fatty acids, depending on what the hens have been fed. And more than that, eggs are regarded a ‘complete’ source of protein as they contain all eight essential amino acids.

This recipe collection begins with an introduction to the types of eggs you can buy – from the hen’s egg to quail, duck, pheasant and even the extra-large ostrich egg – and how to store them, followed by step-by-step instructions for preparing eggs in a variety of ways. You’ll learn to boil, poach, fry, scramble and coddle eggs here, as well as add a few essential skills (for separating and whisking yolks and whites) to your cook’s repertoire – keep a look out for the ‘cook’s notes’ on recipe pages for hints and tips on preparation and ingredients.

Once you’ve mastered these Eggsentials on pages 8–11, the recipes are then organized by type of dish to be enjoyed throughout the day. There are some dishes that everyone should master. From Eggs Benedict (see page 16) to Spanish Omelette (see page 38) and Frittata Bites (see page 99) to soufflés (see pages 119 and 142), you’ll make egg-cellent progress with these simple recipes. And for the more adventurous cook, there are ideas for adding fried eggs to Korean Bibimbap (see page 111), poached eggs to Spicy Kimchi Hash Browns (see page 66), scrambling up a Turkish Menemen (see page 65) and whipping up tart fillings with Quiche Lorraine (see page 120) and mini tartlets (see page 104). And finally, things really get interesting with a few classic egg-white cocktails, such as the Whiskey Sour (see page 157), thrown in for good measure.

You’ll feel spoilt for choice with this egg-clectic collection of recipes that truly make the most of the humble egg. Get cracking!

eggsentials

There are a wide variety of eggs available in supermarkets, whole food stores, farmers’ markets and even through local hen-keepers. Different birds produce different eggs that each have distinctive features; some are bigger than others and some have brighter coloured yolks or richer flavour. Many of the recipes in this book could make use of a variety of eggs, so get to know what’s what here then experiment as you go along. It’s an egg-citing adventure!

hen’s eggs

Available in different colours and sizes, the most common hen’s eggs in supermarkets are UK medium/ US large in brown and white shells. The colour of the shell is dictated by the kind of hen that produces the egg. Free-range eggs come from hens that live in barns or on farms and have a set amount of time spent outside each day. Certified organic eggs come from hens that enjoy more access to the outdoors than free-range birds, less crowded living conditions and an organic diet.

Hen’s eggs are often available as ‘Omega-3 rich’ where the hen’s diet has been naturally enriched with Omega-3 fatty acids as a good way for consumers to boost their Omega-3 intake. Other specialist hen’s eggs, such as Clarence Court® Burford Browns and Costwold Legbars, are available from heritage breed hens that are renowned for their flavour, larger yolks, firmer whites and stronger shells. These are widely available in the UK, but specialist heritage breed eggs can also be sourced worldwide from farmers’ markets and are well worth trying at home.

quail eggs

Miniature eggs from the diminutive quail are about the same size as a large olive, making them the perfect size for creating appetizers like the Scotch eggs on pages 87 and 91. With speckled brown shells, they have a higher proportion of yolk to white than hen’s eggs but can be prepared in the same way for shorter periods of cooking time, reflecting their smaller size.

cook’s note:quail eggs can be fiddly to shell affter boiling so allow a little extra time for this task if replacing hen’s eggs with quail’s when following the recipes for boiled eggs in this book.

pheasant eggs

Larger than quail’s eggs but around half the size of hen’s eggs, pheasant eggs have a deep yellow yolk and come in olive-green or brown shells.

duck eggs

Duck eggs are a luxurious alternative to hen’s eggs and come in white or pale blue shells. Much bigger with a richer yolk and a higher concentration of nutrients, specifically protein, they can be excellent additions to salads such as the Salad Kaek and Potato Salad on page 124. You can cook duck eggs in the same way you would cook any other eggs but because of their higher fat content, they won’t always make a good substitute in baking, when recipes will need a little trial and testing to perfect. They are however very popular in Asian dishes because of their strong flavour, so try out the Mee Grob on page 135 using a duck egg for something a little different.

turkey eggs

Much creamier than hen’s eggs, turkey eggs have a very high ratio of yolk to white. In speckled shells, they are delicious fried, poached or boiled (methods that show off the yolk).

goose eggs

Rich and creamy, these white-shelled eggs are roughly the equivalent of two hen’s eggs – the perfect size for an omelette, soft-boiling/cooking and dipping into or even scrambling.

ostrich eggs

The super-sized ostrich egg is equivalent to roughly 24 hen’s eggs. While similar in taste and texture to the hen’s egg, this enormous variety can taste a little gamey and is not as readily available in supermarkets.

egg whites

Liquid egg whites are available in bottles or cartons in most supermarkets and are ideal for whipping up meringues or egg white omelettes without having to worry about what to do with the leftover yolks.

storing eggs

Store eggs in their box in the fridge or below 20°C (68°F) to maintain freshness. Keep them pointed-end down and away from strong-smelling foods, as they are extremely porous and can absorb odours through their shells. Use by the ‘best-before’ date. To test for freshness, fill a large mixing bowl with water – a fresh egg will sink in water; a stale one will float and should be discarded.

safety tip:Wash hands before and after handling eggs, and discard any cracked and/or dirty eggs.

For many recipes, including cakes and pastry, eggs should be at room temperature. Take them out of the fridge 30 minutes–1 hour before using. To bring cold eggs to room temperature more quickly, immerse them in a bowl of warm (not hot) water for a few minutes. Cold eggs may crack when you boil them in the shell and egg whites at room temperature will whisk better than cold egg whites.

Freeze egg yolks, first mixing them with a little salt or sugar (½–1 teaspoon per two yolks), in a covered plastic container for up to 3 months. Freeze egg whites in a covered plastic container for up to 6 months. Remember to include the number of yolks or whites, and whether they are sweet or salted, on the label. Once thawed, use on the same day and do not refreeze.

how to crack an egg

There are two ways to crack eggs. Either hold an egg in one hand and carefully use a table knife to crack the egg in the middle. Put your thumbs into the crack and pull the eggshell apart. Let the egg fall into a bowl. Fish out any broken eggshell using a larger piece of eggshell that will attract the smaller piece to it through the egg rather than chasing the shell around with a spoon. Or, if you prefer, you can crack an egg by bashing it on the side of a bowl, but you might end up with some of the egg dripping down the side of the bowl until you’ve had a chance to practice! Always wash your hands well after cracking eggs, as it is very easy to pass bacteria from raw food like eggs to cooked food.

how to separate eggs

Crack the egg as above and before pulling it apart, let the yolk settle in one half of the shell. Allow the yolk to rest in one of the open halves, then transfer to the other half, back and forth, dropping the white into the bowl beneath. Tip the yolk into a separate bowl and continue with as many of the eggs as the recipe calls for.

how to boil an egg

Bring a large pan of water to a boil and, when the water is very bubbly, add the eggs and boil for the specified cooking time below. Remove the eggs from the water with a slotted spoon and put in a large bowl filled with ice cubes and water. Serve in egg cups or, when the eggs are cold, tap gently on the side of the bowl and peel.

type of egg

soft-boil/cook

hard-boil/cook

Hen

5–6 minutes

9–10 minutes

Quail

30 seconds

1 minute

Pheasant

2 minutes

3–4 minutes

Duck

4–5 minutes

9–10 minutes

Turkey

5–6 minutes

10–11 minutes

Goose

9–10 minutes

13 minutes

Ostrich

50 minutes

1½–2 hours

how to poach an egg

Crack the egg into a small bowl. Fill a medium frying pan/skillet three-quarters of the way up with water. Add 1 tablespoon of vinegar and set over medium heat until bubbles start to form in the bottom of the pan. Carefully pour the egg (one at a time if poaching more than one) into the water making sure they are well spaced apart. Cook for 4 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

Alternatively, fill a deep saucepan with water and bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low so the water is barely simmering and break the egg (or eggs far apart if poaching more than one), into the pan. Cook for 3 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

how to fry an egg

Add enough oil to a frying pan/skillet to coat the base and set over high heat until the oil glistens. Crack in the eggs and turn the heat to low. Cook for the specified cooking time below, then remove from the pan with a fish slice.

sunny-side up Cook for 2 minutes, then carefully baste the yolk with hot oil to ensure the white is cooked but the yolk is runny

over easy Cook for 2 minutes, then flip over for 30 seconds to cook on the other side but leave the yolk with a bit of ooze

over hard Cook for 2 minutes, then flip over for 1 minute to cook the yolk completely

cook’s note:If you like fried eggs to look neat on the plate, break each one into a greased, round metal cookie cutter in the frying pan/skillet. Alternatively, use a cookie cutter to trim the whites of fried eggs neatly before serving.

how to scramble an egg

Put a knob/pat of butter in a saucepan. Melt over medium (not high) heat. Add the eggs and cook, stirring with a spoon. Keep stirring to break up the egg. When the eggs are almost cooked – so they look only slightly wet – take the pan off the heat and rest it on a pan stand. Keep stirring until the eggs are cooked – the heat from the pan will continue to cook them.

how to coddle an egg

Line the bottom of a large pan with a clean kitchen cloth and grease the insides of the coddler(s) with butter. Fill the pan with enough water to come up just beneath the rim of the coddler(s) and bring to a boil.

Put ½ teaspoon double/heavy cream into each coddler, add 1 egg and season with salt and pepper. Screw the lids on tightly then carefully place the coddlers into the boiling water.

Reduce the heat and simmer for 3–4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside for 6–7 minutes to finish the cooking process.

Remove the coddlers from the water, pat dry, unscrew the lids and serve. You should have a just-cooked, slightly creamy egg to dip into.

whisking egg whites

When whisking egg whites, always start with clean, dry, grease-free equipment. Grease, oil or water in bowls or on whisks will prevent the whites from whisking stiffly. Plastic bowls are not recommended, as the surface is difficult to clean completely of oil or grease; use a stainless steel or glass bowl. Make sure the whites contain no traces of shell or yolks, which contain fat. If a little yolk has fallen into your egg whites, scoop it out, or touch the yolk with a piece of damp paper towel – the yolk should stick to the paper. For best results, use very fresh eggs and add a pinch of salt or cream of tartar at the start to help stiffen them.

cook’s note:Slightly older eggs are better for meringues. They’re also easier to separate.

breakfast & brunch

scrambled eggs with smoked trout & shiso

Scrambled eggs need to be cooked with patience to become creamy. If they are cooked properly, you will not have to resort to adding cream, which just hides an underlying bad scramble. Smoked trout goes exceedingly well with scrambled eggs and the pretty purple leaves of shiso cress add a fiery kick. Research shows that eating oily fish, such as Omega-rich salmon, trout, mackerel and sardines, three times a week, can improve your heart’s health! So tuck in and feel free to replace the trout or salmon used here with a hot smoked kipper or grilled peppered mackerel, if you fancy a change.

10 large eggs

4 tablespoons whole milk

50 g/3½ tablespoons butter

4 slices white bread

280 g/10 oz. hot smoked trout, flaked

a handful of shiso cress

a pinch of chilli powder

sea salt and black pepper, to season

scrambled eggs with smoked salmon (optional)

4 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or snipped chives

4 slices wholemeal/whole-wheat bread, toasted

180 g/6 oz. sliced smoked salmon

lemon wedges, to serve

serves 4

Break the eggs into a mixing bowl and beat together with the milk and some salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, heat half of the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat until the bubbling subsides. Pour in the eggs and heat through, stirring occasionally, for 4–5 minutes, until they start to feel like they are in danger of catching on the base of the pan. Reduce the heat to its lowest setting and stir constantly for 3–5 minutes to make sure the eggs are not overheating on the bottom of the pan.

Meanwhile, toast and butter the bread with the remaining butter. Take the eggs off the heat while they still look a little runny, add the trout, give them a final few stirs and divide between the pieces of toast. Scatter the shiso cress and a little chilli powder over the top, then serve.

scrambled eggs with smoked salmon

Beat the egg, milk, half the parsley or chives and a little salt and pepper together, and cook as above. Alternatively, pour the mixture into a microwaveable bowl and microwave on the highest setting for 2 minutes, stirring halfway through.

Spoon the scrambled egg onto the toast. Top with the smoked salmon and sprinkle with the remaining parsley or chives. Serve immediately with a wedge of lemon to squeeze over.

eggs Benedict

This dish is all about timing. Get everything ready before you cook the eggs and you won’t have to rush. Hollandaise sauce made in a blender is easy – add the butter very slowly and you should hear the sauce turning thick and slushy. Substitute the wholemeal/whole-wheat muffin with homemade gluten-free muffins following the recipe below, if desired.

4 large eggs

4 wholemeal/whole-wheat muffins, halved horizontally

8 slices thin-cut ham

black pepper, to season

Hollandaise sauce

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 shallot, roughly chopped

½ teaspoon black peppercorns

2 large egg yolks

120 g/1 stick butter

gluten-free English muffins (optional)

150 ml/⅔ cup warm milk

1 tablespoon fast-action dried yeast

1 tablespoon caster/granulated sugar

300 g/2⅓ cups gluten-free strong white bread flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon xanthan gum

1 teaspoon salt

1 egg, beaten

80 ml/⅓ cup plain yogurt

60 g/4 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled

yellow cornmeal and polenta, for dusting

serves 4 and makes 6 muffins

Preheat the grill/broiler to medium.

To make the Hollandaise sauce, put the vinegar, 2 tablespoons of cold water, the shallot and peppercorns in a saucepan and simmer over low heat for a few minutes until you have 1 tablespoon liquid remaining. Strain into a blender (or in a bowl if you are going to use an electric handheld whisk) with the egg yolks and set aside. Melt the butter in the same pan.

Fill a deep frying pan/skillet with water and bring to a demure simmer. Crack the eggs in so they don’t touch and poach for exactly 3 minutes.

Put the muffins (cut-side up) and ham on a baking sheet and grill/broil for 2–3 minutes.

To finish the sauce, blend the egg mixture until frothy. With the motor running, add the melted butter in a very slow trickle until the sauce is thick. It should take about a minute to add all the butter; any quicker and it will not emulsify and you’ll just have runny eggs.

Drape a slice of ham on top of each muffin half. Scoop out each poached egg and add to the stack. Pour over the Hollandaise sauce and sprinkle with black pepper to serve.

gluten-free English muffins

Put the warm milk, yeast and sugar in a jug/pitcher and leave in a warm place for about 10 minutes until a thick foam has formed on top of the liquid.

Sift the flour, baking powder and xanthan gum into a large mixing bowl. Add the salt, beaten egg, yogurt and melted butter, and mix well with a wooden spoon until everything is incorporated and you have a soft dough. Divide the dough into 6 portions.

Roll each portion into a ball on a surface dusted with the yellow cornmeal. Flatten the balls into patties with straight sides about 3 cm/1 inch high. Sprinkle with polenta and pat down so that it sticks to the dough. Arrange them on a flour-dusted baking sheet and leave uncovered in a warm place for 45–60 minutes.

When the muffins have risen, heat a grill pan over high heat. Grease the pan with a little butter, add the muffins and turn down the heat. Cook for 8–10 minutes on one side, turn over and cook the underneath for a further 7–10 minutes until golden brown and springy to the touch.