Salt E-Book

Ryland Peters & Small

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2024

Seitenzahl: 116

Beschreibung

A delicious collection of over 50 recipes using salt to enhance your home-cooked dishes. This beautiful book introduces you to all kinds of salts, from French fleur de sel to smoked salt and the myriad of dishes they can create. The book opens with an overview of the different types and flavours of salt available and what they are best used for. Appetizers include Spicy Popcorn with Chipotle Salt and Gazpacho with Smoked Salted Croutons. In Main Courses, you'll find the classic salt-crust method with new twists, such as Indian-spiced Lamb in a Salt Crust, or how about Salt-crusted Citrus Shrimp with Spicy Dipping Sauce? In Sides and Breads you'll discover tempting flatbreads and pretzel bites, while Drinks and Sweets include Bloody Mary with Celery Salt and Chocolate Chip Cookies with Sea Salt? Be amazed as the flavours mingle in your mouth. Finally, a chapter of Rubs, Butters and Brines offers you dozens of versatile ways to jazz up grilled meat or fish, vegetable crudités or crisps. Once you've tried this collection of stunning recipes you will never look at salt in the same way again.

Leseprobe

SALT

SALT

TYPES • USES • RECIPES

with recipes by Valerie Aikman-Smith

Designer Geoff Borin

Senior Editor Abi Waters

Production Manager Gordana Simakovic

Creative Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Indexer Vanessa Bird

First published in 2024 by Ryland Peters & Small

20-21 Jockey’s Fields

341 E 116th St,

London

New York,

WC1R 4BW

NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © Valerie Aikman-Smith, Ghillie Basan, Fiona Beckett, Megan Davies, Ursula Ferrigno, Matt Follas, Carol Hilker, Theo A. Michaels, Hannah Miles, Louise Pickford, James Porter, Ben Reed, Shelagh Ryan, Laura Santini, Fiona Smith, Milli Taylor, Laura Washburn Hutton and Ryland Peters & Small 2024

Design and photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2024 See page 144 for full recipe and photography credits

ISBN: 978-1-78879-605-7

E-ISBN: 978-1-78879-635-4

Printed in China

The authors’ moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library. US Library of Congress cataloguing-in-publication data has been applied for.

Notes:

• Both British (Metric) and American (Imperial plus US cups) measurements are included in these recipes for your convenience, however it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• All eggs are medium (UK) or large (US), unless specified as large, in which case US extra-large should be used.

• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit.

CONTENTS

Introduction

Salt Directory

THE SALTED PANTRY

NIBBLES FOR DRINKS

SMALL PLATES AND APPETIZERS

MAIN MEALS

SALADS AND SIDES

SWEET THINGS

DRINKS

Index

Credits

SALT, heavenly salt - every cook’s pantry is stocked with it. From everyday cooking salt to the pink rock salt of the Himalayas or the aromatic fleur de sel harvested in Guerande, France, there are flavoured salts, spiced salts, smoked salts and salts of the most beautiful hues. We use this magical ingredient in everything; whether it’s for sprinkling over an omelette or decorating the rim of a margarita glass.

We season, preserve, bake, cure, brine, pickle and make rubs with this wonderful ingredient. Harvested from land and sea it comes in a multitude of shapes, textures, colours and tastes. Just a sprinkle of this divine substance can make a dish sing.

Cooks delight in their collections of salts from all over the world. They love to discuss the effects of salt and how they use it to add a freshness and piquancy to food. Some people with a strong devotion to salt even go so far as to carry around a small salt cellar with them.

Salt has been a prized possession since the beginning of civilization. It was once used as a form of currency and wars have been won and lost over it. Nations have been taxed on their salt. In China, salt tax revenues were used to build the Great Wall. The Greeks and the Mayans worshipped their gods with salt offerings. Roman soldiers were given an allowance of salt known as ‘salarium’, from which the word ‘salary’ comes. There are salt routes all over the world, which were used to transport salt from continent to continent. In Italy, one of the oldest roads is called Via Salaria, meaning salt route, and Venice has a long history of making herbed salts. At one time salt was so precious it was traded ounce for ounce with gold.

So where does the salt that we buy from our local market come from? It is mined deep in the earth and harvested from salt lakes or salt pans. Salt lakes are naturally occurring inland bodies of water, which are remnants of ancient seas. Salt pans are man-made basins, situated next to the sea, which are flooded with salt waters. These waters evaporate in the sun and the salt that is left behind is harvested.

Wherever it comes from in the world we are always surprised and delighted to have it around.

Remember, if you spill salt, throw a few granules over your shoulder for good luck.

SALT DIRECTORY

ROCK SALT

This is mined from salt deposits deep in the earth and is sometimes coloured with minerals. It has a large grain, which makes it ideal for use when cooking with a salt crust, but otherwise it is usually put in a salt grinder for easier use.

MURRAY RIVER SALT FLAKES

These delicate pink salt flakes come from the Murray River region in Australia. They are harvested from pure underground saline waters rich in minerals, giving it its wonderful taste and pink colour. Good for cooking and used as a pretty garnish.

HIMALAYAN PINK ROCK SALT

This salt is hand-mined in Nepal from ancient salt deposits and is believed to be the purest salt on earth. The iron content gives it its distinct pink colour. Fun to have in a block and grate over food.

GREEN TEA SALT

This salt is made by mixing Matcha, a Japanese green tea powder, with sea salt and grinding it to a fine powder using a pestle and mortar. It adds a gentle taste when sprinkled on salads and is high in amino acids.

SMOKED SALTS

Smoked salts are man-made by smoking the salts with flavoured wood chips. They come in versions such as mesquite or hickory and add a deep flavour to dishes.

HAWAIIAN BLACK LAVA SEA SALT

Crushed black lava and black charcoal are mixed with harvested sea salt to give it its black appearance. It should be sprinkled on food at the last minute. Do not immerse it in liquid as it will lose its colour.

SEA SALT FLAKES

These are large delicate salt crystals made from the evaporation caused by the sun on the sea or salt lakes. Rich in minerals, they come in an array of colours depending on their geographical origin.

HAWAIIAN RED ALAEA SEA SALT

This salt hails from the island of Kauai. ‘Alaea’ is the name given to the natural mineral found in the run-off from the volcano, which occurs in the rainy season. It is a red clay, which colours the salt pans a deep burnt red colour. This salt is used mostly for garnishing dishes.

SEL GRIS

Sel gris, grey salt, is also known as Celtic sea salt. Hand-harvested from the bottom of the salt flats in Guérande, France, its grey colour comes from the clay in the beds.

JURASSIC SALT

Jurassic salt gets its name from the era 150 million years ago when Utah was mostly under water. When the water dried up, it left behind this mineral-intense salt with a pinkish hue. This salt has a delicate flavour and is perfect for most types of cooking, especially baking.

FLEUR DE SEL

A hand-harvested sea salt from the Guérande and Camargue regions of France. The crystallized salt is skimmed from the surface of the salt pans, flooded with the waters of the Atlantic. It has a mild flavour.

FLAVOURED SALTS

These salts are made with fruits, spices (such as saffron), fresh and dried herbs, pounded together with salt using a pestle and mortar. If you use fresh herbs or fruits, crush then spread them out on a baking tray and place in a low temperature oven for 30 minutes.

THE SALTED PANTRY

BRINES

Brine is simply salty water, but it can season, flavour and preserve a variety of foods. Remember, once you have brined foods you must throw away the brine; it cannot be used for anything else.

JUNIPER BERRY BRINE

This is when to get out the mortar and pestle and bruise the juniper berries to let those fantastic floral aromas jump out at you. This brine works well with any cut of pork and the flavours soak deep down into the meat.

1 tablespoon juniper berries

4 garlic cloves

4 fresh bay leaves

1 sprig rosemary

130 g/½ cup coarse sea salt

240 ml/1 cup white wine

MAKES 2.2 LITRES/9 CUPS

In a mortar and pestle, pound the juniper berries, garlic and bay leaves until they are smashed.

Put the juniper berries, garlic and bay into a large saucepan with all the other ingredients, add 2 litres/quarts water and set over a medium-high heat. Bring to the boil and stir until all the salt has dissolved.

Remove from the heat and let cool completely. When the brine has cooled, it is ready to use.

CHILLI BRINE

This brine is excellent for prawns/shrimps in their shells. Only brine seafood for 20 minutes; after that the meat will begin to break up.

60 g/¼ cup sea salt

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

6 dried red chillies/chiles

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

4 kaffir lime leaves

MAKES 1.75 LITRES/ 7½ CUPS

Put all the ingredients in a saucepan with 1.5 litres/6¼ cups water and set over a medium-high heat. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring until all the salt has dissolved.

Remove from the heat and let cool completely. When the brine has cooled, it is ready to use.

SWEET TEA BRINE

Infusing chicken in this sweet tea brine gives the final dish a special taste. Fruity and light, it is the perfect brine for fried chicken.

4 tablespoons black tea leaves

1.5 litres/6¼ cups boiling water

60 g/¼ cup coarse sea salt

3 tablespoons dark brown sugar

60 ml/¼ cup honey

MAKES 1.75 LITRES/ 7½ CUPS

Put the black tea leaves in a measuring jug/cup and pour over the boiling water. Add the salt, sugar and honey and stir until dissolved. Set aside to cool.

When the brine has cooled completely, it is ready to use.

MEDITERRANEAN BRINE

This is not a complicated brine - the flavours are simple so as to enrich the final dish but not to take over. The rosemary and balsamic give the brine a Mediterranean touch, which is perfect for all poultry.

65 g/¼ cup coarse sea salt

1 large sprig rosemary

2 garlic cloves

60 ml/¼ cup white balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

MAKES 2.2 LITRES/9 CUPS

Put all the ingredients in a large saucepan with 2 litres/quarts water, and set over a medium-high heat. Bring to the boil and stir until all the salt has dissolved.

Remove from the heat and let cool completely. When the brine has cooled, it is ready to use.

BEER BRINE FOR THE BARBECUE

Brining ribs and chops really keeps them moist when they hit that fiery grill. You can leave meats in the brine for 2-3 days; the longer the better.

1 litre/4 cups boiling water

1 bottle Guinness or dark beer

60 g/¼ cup coarse sea salt

3 tablespoons dark brown sugar

3 tablespoons molasses

1 tablespoon dried oregano

MAKES 1.5 LITRES/6½ CUPS

Put all the ingredients in a large bowl, stir until dissolved and set aside. When the brine has cooled completely, it is ready to use.

ANISE AND APPLE CIDER BRINE

Apple cider gives this brine a kick. If possible, use unfiltered cider as it does make a difference. This is an ideal brine for pork as the apple flavours go together so well. The addition of the anise just adds a little surprise.

1 tablespoon anise seeds

120 ml/½ cup (hard) apple cider

65 g/¼ cup coarse sea salt

2 garlic cloves, bashed

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

4 fresh bay leaves

MAKES 2.2 LITRES/ 9 CUPS

Put all the ingredients in a large saucepan and add 2 litres/ quarts water. Set the pan over a medium-high heat, bring to the boil and stir until all the salt has dissolved.

Remove from the heat and let cool completely. When the brine has cooled, it is ready to use.

PRESERVED LEMONS

Added to so many dishes as a refreshing, tangy ingredient or garnish, preserved lemons are essential to the cooking of tagines. Of course, you can buy jars of ready-preserved lemons in Middle Eastern and African stores, as well as some supermarkets and specialist shops, but it is worth making your own. Be as liberal as you like, tossing them in salads and scattering them over your favourite tagines.

10 organic, unwaxed lemons, preferably the small, thin-skinned Meyer variety

120 g/½ cup sea salt

freshly squeezed juice of 3-4 lemons

1 sterilized 1-litre/1-quart glass jar with lid*

MAKES 1 LITRE/QUART

Wash and dry the lemons and slice the ends off each one. Stand each lemon on one end and make two vertical cuts three-quarters of the way through them, as if cutting them into quarters but keeping the base intact.

Stuff 1 tablespoon salt into each lemon and pack them into a large sterilized jar. Seal the jar and store the lemons in a cool place for 3-4 days to soften the skins.

Press the lemons down into the jar, so they are even more tightly packed. Pour the lemon juice over the salted lemons until they are completely covered. Seal the jar again and store it in a cool place for at least 1 month.

Rinse the salt off the preserved lemons before using.

*To sterilize, wash the jar in hot soapy water and rinse. Place in a preheated oven at 160°C fan/180°C/350°F/Gas 4 for 10 minutes.

QUICK PICKLED CUCUMBERS

These crunchy cucumber spears are a snap to make and you can keep them in the fridge for 2 weeks. This is a good basic brining recipe for pickling and you can add other spices depending on what vegetable you are using.

450 g/1 lb. pickling cucumbers

1 tablespoon coarse sea salt

2 teaspoons brown sugar

½ teaspoon black peppercorns

½ teaspoon pink peppercorns

1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds

4 fresh bay leaves

350 ml/1½ cups apple cider vinegar

1 sterilized 1-litre/1-quart glass jar with lid*

MAKES 1 LITRE/QUART

Cut the cucumbers into spears and pack them into the glass jar.