Home-Grown Harvest: Delicious ways to enjoy your seasonal fruit and vegetables - Ryland Peters & Small - E-Book

Home-Grown Harvest: Delicious ways to enjoy your seasonal fruit and vegetables E-Book

Ryland Peters & Small

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More than 150 recipes for making the most of your home-grown fruit and vegetables – from warming soups and bakes to vibrant summer salads and tangy preserves.

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HOME-GROWN HARVEST

HOME-GROWN HARVEST

delicious ways to enjoy your seasonal fruit and vegetables

Designers Iona Hoyle, Paul Stradling

Editors Rebecca Woods, Miriam Catley

Picture Research Emily Westlake

Head of production Patricia Harrington

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Indexer Sandra Shotter

First published in 2011

This edition published in 2019

by Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 East 116th Street

New York, NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

Text © Ghillie Başan, Fiona Beckett, Celia Brooks Brown, Maxine Clark, Ross Dobson, Tonia George, Brian Glover, Amanda Grant, Annie Nichols, Jane Noraika, Louise Pickford, Isidora Popovic, Sarah Randell, Annie Rigg, Jennie Shapter, Fiona Smith, Sonia Stevenson, Linda Tubby, Sunil Vijayakar, Fran Warde, Laura Washburn, Lindy Wildsmith and Ryland Peters & Small 2011, 2019

Design and commissioned photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2011, 2019

The authors’ moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

ISBN 978-1-78879-121-2

E-ISBN 978-1-78879-330-8

CIP data from the Library of Congress has been applied for.

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Printed in China

Notes

• Both British (Metric) and American (Imperial plus US cups) measurements are included in these recipes for your convenience, however it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• All eggs are medium (UK) or large (US), unless specified as large, in which case US extra large should be used. Uncooked or partly cooked eggs should not be served to the very young, the very old, those with compromised immune systems, or to pregnant women.

• Weights and measurements have been rounded up or down slightly to make measuring easier.

• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of a citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperature. If using a fan-assisted oven, cooking times should be reduced according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

• To sterilize preserving jars, wash them in hot, soapy water and rinse in boiling water. Place in a large saucepan and cover with hot water. With the saucepan lid on, bring the water to the boil and continue boiling for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the hot water until just before they are to be filled. Invert the jars onto a clean dish towel to dry. Sterilize the lids for 5 minutes, by boiling or according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Jars should be filled and sealed while they are still hot.

contents

introduction

root vegetables

potatoes

sweet potatoes

carrots

parsnips

beetroot

bulb & stem vegetables

fennel

leeks

asparagus

onions

fruiting vegetables

aubergines/eggplants

(bell) peppers

tomatoes

sweetcorn

artichokes

podding vegetables

peas

beans

greens & salad vegetables

cauliflower

broccoli

cabbage

spinach

swiss chard

salad greens

courgettes/zucchini & squash

pumpkin

squash

courgettes/zucchini

mushrooms

tree fruits

apples

pears

plums

peaches

nectarines

apricots

cherries

figs

soft fruits

strawberries

raspberries

blackberries

blueberries

rhubarb

index

credits

introduction

Growing your own fruit and vegetables is immensely satisfying – and is quickly becoming fashionable again. Food-loving gardeners are once more beginning to incorporate edible varieties of plants, as well as beautiful ornamental ones, into gardens that resemble the more functional spaces of our childhoods. Even in inner cities, where space is at a premium, many urbanites are finding that allotting precious space on a roof terrace or small patio for a few tomato or strawberry pots not only brings the benefit of the produce itself, but also provides a pastoral escape from a stressful lifestyle. And for those who struggle horticulturally, there is healthy growth in farmers’ markets, especially within cities, providing local venues to buy the freshest produce direct from source and talk to the growers themselves about the best ways to prepare those sweet young carrots or deliciously earthy new potatoes.

This rise in popularity of home- or locally-grown fresh produce marks a deeply positive change in attitudes towards food, and is indicative of a quiet but growing backlash against a global, profit-driven food trade that lacks respect for the environment and the seasons and delivers disappointing produce. Food that travels long distances can be tasteless – harvested long before it is ready and shipped in refrigerated transport that stops ripening in it’s tracks. Tomatoes bought in winter can be tough, floury and bland, nothing like the deep red, sweet smelling tomatoes that are picked off the vine in the height of summer. Additionally, many of the nutrients present when produce is first picked are lost during the long journey between the field and the plate.

In contrast, home-grown produce is cultivated with care for the environment – and you can taste the difference. There is great pleasure to be gained from eating what is seasonally available – paying greater respect to the natural order of the seasons yields wonderful results in the finished dish. Not only this, but putting in time in the garden can also lead to a healthy reduction in supermarket expenditure.

But to say this to you, the holder of this book, is likely to be preaching to the converted. Your allotment, vegetable patch or even window box may already be abundant with fresh fruit and vegetables, but the dilemma is what now to do with this produce that you have spent time and care nurturing? One of the downsides of growing your own can be the sense of dé jà vu that haunts meal times. Dinners can seem suspiciously similar when all created from the same crop, and finding new inspiration can be tricky. For the home-grower it becomes customary for each visiting friend or relative to leave the house with a goodie bag laden with fresh fruit or vegetables that have become tiresome or that there is simply no chance of consuming before they spoil.

This is where Home-grown Harvest can help. Providing recipes for all your favourite fruit and vegetables, it ensures that there are numerous options for using each so that you don’t have to cook the same dish time and time again in order to use up your produce. And because most seasonal locally-grown vegetables can be picked at their very best, many of the recipes are rustic and unfussy and truly let the flavour of the produce speak for itself.

The book is arranged as an easy reference guide with the recipes for each vegetable or fruit grouped together. Although, as much of the produce may be featured not only in it’s own chapter but also in combinations with other fruit or vegetables, don’t forget to check the index for other recipes, too. And be sure to take note of the handy tips, which offer further advice on preparing, storing and truly savouring the the rewards of your labour.

root vegetables

a

If you’ve got a successful crop of potatoes this year and you need inspiration for how best to use them, this pie is a great option. Bacon, leeks and cheese make a particularly perfect trio, but you can add just about anything to this versatile dish. You should have potatoes at the very least, and cheese of some sort, and something green for a bit of colour – after that, anything goes! The croquettes are particularly good if you grow a floury variety of potato as it fluffs up nicely when boiled and mashed. The parsnip adds an interesting flavour dimension, as it is a little bitter and sweet at the same time.

mashed potato pie with bacon, leeks & cheese

1 kg/2¼ lbs. floury potatoes, peeled

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 small leeks, thinly sliced

90 g/½ cup bacon or pancetta, diced

30 g/2 tablespoons butter

250 ml/1 cup milk or single cream (or a bit of both)

1 egg, beaten

a pinch of paprika

a large handful of freshly chopped parsley

90 g/⅔ cup firm cheese, such as Gruyère, grated

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

a 24-cm/10-inch round baking dish, well buttered

serves 4–6

Halve or quarter the potatoes depending on their size; they should be about the same to cook evenly. Put them in a large saucepan, add sufficient cold water to cover, salt well and bring to the boil. Simmer for about 20 minutes, until tender.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan/skillet set over low heat. Add the onion and leeks and cook gently for about 10 minutes, until soft. Add the bacon and cook for 3–5 minutes, until just browned. Season with salt and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F) Gas 5.

Drain the potatoes and mash coarsely, mixing in the butter and milk. Season well and add the egg. Stir to combine thoroughly.

Stir in the leek mixture, paprika, parsley and half the cheese. Transfer to the prepared baking dish and spread evenly. Sprinkle over the remaining cheese and bake in the preheated oven for 35–45 minutes, until well browned. Serve immediately.

potato & parsnip croquettes

500 g/1 lb. potatoes, peeled and quartered

1 parsnip, peeled and quartered

3 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons freshly chopped parsley

2 eggs

100 g/1 cup dry breadcrumbs from a day-old loaf of bread

2 tablespoons plain/all-purpose flour, for dusting

vegetable oil, for shallow-frying

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

sweet German mustard, to serve

makes 18 croquettes

Put the potatoes and parsnip in a large saucepan and cover with boiling water. Set over high heat and boil for 12–15 minutes until tender. Drain and return to the warm pan. Add 2 tablespoons of the butter and mash well until the mixture is lump-free. Stir in the parsley and season well with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until the mixture is completely chilled.

Break the eggs into a bowl and beat well to combine. Put the breadcrumbs in a separate bowl. Lightly flour your hands and work surface. Take 1 heaped tablespoon of the potato mixture and form it into a small sausage, tapping the ends on the floured work surface so that they are flattened rather than tapered. Dip the croquette in the beaten egg, then roll it in the crumbs until coated. Put on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment. Repeat until all of the potato mixture has been used and refrigerate until ready to cook.

Put 1 tablespoon butter in a frying pan/skillet and pour in sufficient oil to come halfway up the sides of the pan. Heat the pan over medium heat until the butter begins to sizzle. To test if the oil is hot enough, sprinkle a few crumbs into it – they should sizzle on contact. Cook the croquettes in batches for 2–3 minutes, turning often, until golden and crisp all over. Remove from the oil using a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper to remove excess oil. Serve warm with the mustard on the side. Pictured on page 50.

indian potato curry with toor dhal

125 g/1¼ cups yellow lentils

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ teaspoon mustard seeds

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon crushed garlic

1 teaspoon chilli/chili powder

1½ teaspoons ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

4 tomatoes, skinned and chopped

1 teaspoon salt

750 g/1½ lbs. floury potatoes, cut into 2-cm/1-inch chunks

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

to serve

2 tablespoons freshly chopped coriander/cilantro, plus extra sprigs

½ teaspoon garam masala

basmati rice

serves 4

Wash the lentils well in several changes of water. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the mustard and fenugreek seeds. When they begin to pop, stir in the ginger and garlic and fry for 30 seconds.

Add the chilli/chili powder, ground coriander and turmeric and stir-fry for a further 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and lentils, cover with 600 ml/2½ cups water, add the salt, then bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 20–30 minutes or until the lentils are just soft.

Add the potatoes and simmer over low heat for 10–15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Season with salt and pepper.

Serve sprinkled with chopped coriander/cilantro, garam masala and sprigs of fresh coriander/cilantro. Basmati rice makes a suitable accompaniment.

The humble spud is fantastic for absorbing the rich flavours of fragrant spices, such as in this curry, which makes a hearty meal with the addition of lentils too. The tortilla may not look that substantial, but thanks to the creamy Taleggio cheese, it packs a super-rich taste punch and is more than enough for four to enjoy as a starter or snack.

potato tortilla with red pepper tapenade

10–12 small, waxy new potatoes, thickly sliced

1 small red onion, roughly chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

250 ml/1 cup vegetable stock

a handful of freshly chopped flat leaf parsley

100 g/4 oz. Taleggio cheese, chopped or torn into large chunks

2 eggs, lightly beaten

red pepper tapenade

1 large red (bell) pepper

1 garlic clove, chopped

50 g/⅓ cup pine nuts, lightly toasted

2 tablespoons olive oil

50 g/½ cup Parmesan cheese, finely grated

serves 4

To make the tapenade, preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F) Gas 7. Put a baking sheet in the oven for a few minutes to heat. Put the red (bell) pepper on the sheet and cook it in the preheated oven for about 15 minutes, turning often until the skin is starting to blacken and puff up. Transfer it to a clean plastic bag and let cool. When the pepper is cool enough to handle, peel off the skin, discard the seeds, roughly tear or chop the flesh and put it in a food processor. Add the garlic, pine nuts and oil and process until smooth. Spoon into a bowl, add the Parmesan and stir well to combine.

Put the potatoes, onion and olive oil in a frying pan/skillet set over high heat and cook for 1 minute. Add the stock and cook for about 10 minutes, until the stock has evaporated and the vegetables start to sizzle in the pan. Stir through the parsley and put the pieces of cheese among the potatoes. Pour the eggs into the pan and cook for 2–3 minutes until they start to puff up around the edges. Give the pan a couple of firm shakes – this will make it easier to get the cooked tortilla out of the pan. Meanwhile, preheat the grill/broiler to high. Put the frying pan/skillet under the hot grill/broiler and cook the tortilla for 1–2 minutes, until the top is golden but still wobbly in the centre. Use a spatula to smear some of the tapenade onto the base of a serving plate and carefully slide the tortilla onto the plate. Cut into 4 slices and eat direct from the plate with extra tapenade on the side.

roasted new potatoes

1 kg/2 lbs. small potatoes, unpeeled and scrubbed

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 garlic cloves, whole and unpeeled

a few sprigs of fresh rosemary

serves 4

Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F) Gas 5.

Cut any big potatoes in half so that they are all roughly the same size. Put them into a large, heavy-based roasting pan. Drizzle a little olive oil over the top. Add the garlic and sprigs of rosemary.

Put the pan into the preheated oven and roast for 20 minutes. Take the tin out of the oven and move the potatoes around with a wooden spoon. Roast a little longer if they are still not ready.

potatoes dauphinoise

1 kg/2 lbs. waxy potatoes, thinly sliced

125 g/1¼ cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese

freshly grated nutmeg

300 ml/1¼ cups double/heavy cream

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

a shallow, ovenproof dish, buttered

serves 6

Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F) Gas 3.

Layer the potatoes in the dish, seasoning each layer with cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Pour over the cream and sprinkle any remaining cheese over the top. Bake in the preheated oven for about 1 hour or until the potatoes are tender and the top is golden and crisp.

bay-roasted hasselbacks

24 small potatoes, unpeeled and scrubbed

approximately 20 fresh bay leaves, torn in half lengthways

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

3 tablespoons olive oil

1–2 garlic cloves, crushed

sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

serves 4–6

Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F) Gas 5.

To prepare the potatoes, spear each potato lengthways with a skewer about 5 mm/¼ inch from the base, slice widthways across the potato as far as the skewer, then remove the skewer.

Insert a couple of pieces of bay leaf in each sliced potato. Melt the butter with the oil in a heavy-based roasting pan over moderate heat. Stir in the garlic and gently add the potatoes in a single layer. Move them around for 2–3 minutes to colour slightly, then season with sea salt flakes and black pepper.

Roast the potatoes in the preheated oven for 25–30 minutes until golden brown and tender. As they cook, the potatoes will open out like a fan.

hash browns

25 g/2 tablespoons butter

1 onion, chopped

600 g/1½ lbs. large potatoes, peeled and grated

1 egg white, beaten

vegetable oil, for deep frying

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

makes 16

Heat the butter in a frying pan/skillet, then add the onion, cover with a lid and cook over low heat until soft.

Put the potatoes into a large mixing bowl and stir in the softened onions. Stir in the egg white and season generously.

Fill a large saucepan one-third full with vegetable oil. Heat to 190°C/375°F (or until a blob of the potato mixture browns within a few seconds).

Roll the potato mixture into walnut-sized balls, then flatten slightly before adding to the hot oil. Fry in batches for 2–3 minutes, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve with extra salt, for sprinkling.

Sweet potatoes make an excellent ingredient for soups. When blended they take on a velvety, creamy texture. Here, their sweetness is cut through with some full-on and spicy Asian flavours in the form of a Thai-style pesto, which brings this soup to life.

sweet potato & coconut soup with thai pesto

1 tablespoon light olive oil

500 g/1 lb. sweet potato, peeled and chopped into chunks

1 red onion, chopped

1 tablespoon Thai red curry paste

500 ml/2 cups vegetable stock

500 ml/2 cups coconut milk

thai pesto

100 g/⅔ cup unsalted peanuts, lightly toasted

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 large green chillies/chiles, deseeded and chopped

a small bunch of fresh coriander/cilantro

a large handful of fresh mint leaves

a large handful of fresh basil leaves

2 tablespoons light soy sauce or Thai fish sauce

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

1 tablespoon soft light brown sugar

serves 4

Put the oil in a heavy-based saucepan set over medium heat. Add the sweet potato and onion, partially cover with a lid and cook for 15 minutes, stirring often, until they are soft and just starting to turn golden. Increase the heat to high, add the curry paste and stir-fry with the sweet potato for 3–4 minutes so that the pasta cooks and becomes fragrant. Add the stock and coconut milk and bring to the boil. Transfer the mixture to a food processor or blender and whizz until smooth. Return the soup to a clean saucepan.

To make the pesto, put all of the ingredients in a food processor or blender and whizz, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl, until you have a chunky green paste and the ingredients are all evenly chopped. Gently reheat the soup, then ladle into warmed serving bowls. Top with a generous spoonful of Thai pesto to serve.

*tip

Sweet potatoes are very versatile and can be substituted in place of white potatoes in most recipes, especially the paler varieties. Store them in a cool, dark, dry place, but they should never be refrigerated, as this causes their centres to harden and their flavour to be impaired.

Sweet potato is wonderful paired with nuts, and these two light bites make the most of that heavenly combination. Golden sesame wedges are served with a peanut dipping sauce for a moreish snack, while macadamia nuts add a great crunch to this roasted sweet potato salad.

sesame sweet potato with peanut dipping sauce

750 g/1½ lbs. sweet potatoes, well scrubbed but unpeeled, cut lengthways into thick wedges

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

sea salt

fresh coriander/cilantro, coarsely torn or chopped, to serve

dipping sauce

2 tablespoons organic peanut butter

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

½ red chilli/chile, deseeded and sliced

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon tomato ketchup

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

serves 6–8

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) Gas 6.

Arrange the sweet potato wedges on a baking sheet, then sprinkle with the olive and sesame oils, sesame seeds and salt. Roast in the preheated oven for 35 minutes or until tender (the cooking time will vary depending on the size of the wedges).

Meanwhile, to make the dipping sauce, put the peanut butter, lime juice, chilli/chile, soy sauce and tomato ketchup in a food processor, add 4 tablespoons hot water and blend until smooth. Add salt and pepper, then pour into a saucepan and heat gently.

Sprinkle the wedges with the coriander/cilantro and serve with a separate bowl of the dipping sauce.

Variation To simplify this recipe even further, serve the wedges with store-bought sweet chilli/chile sauce.

roasted sweet potato & macadamia nut salad

3 sweet potatoes (about 300 g/10 oz. each), peeled

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon sea salt flakes

70 g/2½ oz. raw macadamia nuts, roughly chopped

200 g/7 oz. baby spinach leaves, washed

dressing

2 tablespoons macadamia or olive oil

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 teaspoon wholegrain mustard

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

serves 4

Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F) Gas 5.

Cut the sweet potatoes into 2-cm/1-inch cubes and toss in a bowl with the olive oil and salt flakes. Tip onto a baking sheet and roast in the preheated oven for 10 minutes.

Put the macadamia nuts in the bowl and toss with any residual oil. Add to the sweet potatoes and roast in the hot oven for 10 minutes, giving the sweet potatoes 20 minutes in total.

To make the dressing, mix together the macadamia oil, vinegar and mustard in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Arrange the spinach leaves on a serving platter and top with the sweet potatoes and macadamia nuts. Drizzle or spoon the dressing over the top and serve immediately.

tagine of sweet potato, shallots & carrots

2–3 tablespoons olive oil plus a knob of butter

40 g/1½-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped or grated

1–2 cinnamon sticks or 1–2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

16 small shallots, peeled and left whole

700 g/1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces

2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces

175 g/¾ cup ready-to-eat stoned prunes

1 tablespoon dark, runny honey

425 ml/1¾ cups vegetable or chicken stock

leaves from a small bunch of fresh coriander/cilantro, roughly chopped

a few fresh mint leaves, chopped

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

couscous, to serve (optional)

serves 4–6

Heat the olive oil and butter in a tagine or heavy-based casserole. Add the ginger and cinnamon sticks. Toss in the shallots and when they begin to colour add the sweet potato and the carrots. Sauté for 2–3 minutes, stirring, then add the prunes and the honey. Pour in the stock and bring it to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover and cook gently for about 25 minutes.

Uncover and stir in some of the coriander/cilantro and mint. Season to taste and reduce the liquid, if necessary, by cooking for a further 2–3 minutes uncovered. The vegetables should be tender and slightly caramelized in a very syrupy sauce. Sprinkle with the remaining coriander/cilantro and mint and serve immediately with couscous, if liked.

Two hearty, warming dishes: this syrupy, caramelized tagine can be adapted to what you have grown – try it with butternut squash or pumpkin instead of sweet potato, if you prefer. The sweet potato and chicken pie is a great way to recycle leftover roast chicken, as well as use up vegetable gluts. To obtain the stale bread, use the end pieces from sliced loaves and toast them in the oven, alongside the sweet potatoes.

roast sweet potato & chicken pie

1.5 kg/3½ lbs. sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

3–4 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons butter

1 onion, diced

100 g/4 oz. bacon, chopped

2 celery sticks, chopped

150 g/2 cups mushrooms, chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 teaspoons dried thyme

75–100 g/2½–3½ oz. sausages, cooked and chopped

100 g/¾ cup vacuum-packed peeled chestnuts, chopped

a large handful of fresh parsley leaves, chopped

½ a chicken (about 700 g/1½ lbs.), cooked and meat shredded

125 g/4 oz. stale or toasted bread, broken into small pieces

5 tablespoons milk

180 ml/¾ cup chicken stock or water

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

a 25–30-cm/10–12 inch round baking dish, well buttered

serves 4–6

Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F) Gas 7.

Toss the sweet potatoes with the olive oil and arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet. Roast in the preheated oven for about 45 minutes, until tender and browned. Reduce the oven temperature to 200ºC (400ºF) Gas 6. Let the sweet potatoes cool, then mash with butter to taste and season with salt. Set aside.

Heat some of the oil in a frying pan/skillet. Add the onion and cook for 2–3 minutes, until soft. Season with salt, then add the bacon, celery and mushrooms and cook for 3–5 minutes, stirring often. Add the garlic, thyme, sausage and chestnuts and cook for about 1 minute. Stir in the parsley and chicken and set aside.

In a bowl, combine the bread pieces and milk and toss to coat. The bread should be moist, you may need to add more milk. Add the bread to the chicken mixture, along with the stock. Stir well. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Spread the chicken mixture in an even layer in the prepared baking dish. It will dry out slightly with baking, so if it seems dry at the outset, add a bit more of any liquid: stock, milk or water. Top with the mashed sweet potato, spread evenly. Bake in the preheated oven for about 45 minutes. (The sweet potato won’t brown but should start to blacken slightly where peaked.)

The delicate flavour of carrots is best blended with vegetable stock or water as chicken muddies the flavour of really good carrots. However, if you’re doubtful of your carrots’ flavour, go for a good quality vegetable stock.

spiced carrot soup

50 g/3 tablespoons butter

1 onion, chopped

800 g/1¾ lbs. carrots, chopped

2 teaspoons ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon chilli/chili powder

1 litre/4 cups vegetable stock or water

4 tablespoons double/heavy cream

2 tablespoons sunflower oil

5-cm/2-inch piece fresh ginger, cut into matchsticks

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

serves 4

Melt the butter in a large saucepan and sauté the onion for 5–8 minutes until softened. Add the carrots, coriander, ground ginger and chilli/chili powder and stir into the butter to coat them and release the flavour of the spices. Season well, then pour in the stock. Simmer for 40 minutes.

Transfer the contents of the pan to a blender in batches (or use a handheld blender) and liquidize to a smooth purée. Stir in the cream. Add a more water if it is too thick and season to taste.

Heat the sunflower oil in a frying pan/skillet over high heat and fry the ginger for 1 minute, or until crisp.

Divide the soup equally between 4 bowls, garnish with the fried ginger and serve.

Barley is a wonderful ingredient – it’s so earthy and can enhance all sorts of dishes. It’s used here to make a dish much like a risotto, but without all the stirring! Soy and Parmesan work well together and give the barley an intensely savoury flavour that is perfect with sweet new season carrots.

roasted carrots with barley risotto

2 tablespoons light olive oil

12 baby carrots, ends trimmed

2 tablespoons butter

2 sprigs of fresh thyme

2 garlic cloves, unpeeled and cut in half

500 ml/2 cups chicken stock

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

220 g/1¼ cups barley

3 heaped tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

serves 4

Heat the oil in a frying pan/skillet until very hot. Add the carrots and cook for 8–10 minutes, turning every 2 minutes, until golden. If your pan isn’t big enough you may need to do this in batches. Add ⅔ of the butter, the thyme and garlic to the pan with 125 ml/½ cup water and season with sea salt and black pepper. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and cook over medium heat for 15–20 minutes, turning often, until the carrots are tender.

Meanwhile, to make the barley risotto, put the stock and soy sauce in a saucepan with 1 litre water and bring to the boil. Add the barley and cook for 45–50 minutes, stirring often, until the barley is soft but not breaking up. Stir in the remaining butter and Parmesan. Serve the carrots on top of the barley.

Variation The carrots could be served hot on a bed of couscous or left to cool and tossed in a salad with beetroot/beets, toasted pine nuts and a soft cheese.

madeira-glazed roast carrots

750 g/1½ lbs. young carrots

1 tablespoon olive oil

50 g/4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon sugar

125 ml/½ cup Madeira wine

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

a handful of fresh flat leaf parsley, corsely chopped, to serve

serves 4–6

Wash and trim the carrots. If large, cut into 4-cm/1½-inch chunks, but if small or medium, leave them whole. Par-boil them in a large saucepan of boiling water for about 10 minutes, leaving them still slightly hard in the middle. Drain.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) Gas 6.

Heat the oil and butter in a roasting pan in the preheated oven a until the butter begins to brown. Add the carrots, turn to coat in the oil, then sprinkle with salt, pepper and sugar and return to the oven for 10 minutes. Turn them and roast for a further 15 minutes. Add the Madeira and cook until all the liquid has gone. Serve sprinkled with parsley.

carrots with cream & herbs

800 g/1¾ lbs. baby carrots, or medium carrots

50 g/3 tablespoons unsalted butter

a sprig of fresh thyme

2 tablespoons crème fraîche

several sprigs of fresh chervil, snipped

a small bunch of fresh chives, snipped

fine sea salt

serves 4

Trim the carrots (or if using larger carrots, cut them diagonally into 5-cm/2-inch slices). Put them in a large saucepan (the carrots should fit in almost a single layer for even cooking). Add the butter and set over low heat. Cook for 3 minutes, until the butter has melted and coated the carrots. Half fill the saucepan with water, then add a pinch of salt and the thyme. Cover and cook for 10–20 minutes, until the water is almost completely evaporated.

Stir in the crème fraîche and add sea salt to taste. Sprinkle the herbs over the top. Mix well and serve.

spiced carrot dip

250 ml/1 cup vegetable stock