Knitted Animal Scarves, Mitts and Socks E-Book

Fiona Goble

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2015

Seitenzahl: 182

Beschreibung

Knit your own animal accessories with these fun and colourful patterns from Fiona Goble. Everyone loves animals, and now you can add them to your wardrobe with this fun and fluffy collection of animal scarves, mitts, and socks to knit. Whether you like the bright colours of tropical frogs and fish, or you prefer the cuddly softness of a koala or a rabbit, you will find your favourite creature here. 'Furry Friends' include a fox scarf and mitts, and a marmalade kitten scarf. In 'Country Creatures' you'll find scarves in the shape of a duckling, a lamb and a pig, as well as hedgehog mitts. 'Water Lovers' include a shark scarf complete with fin, and a pair of penguin socks, while 'Wild Animals' range from an elephant scarf to a zebra cowl and snake socks. There are loads of scarves for small kids, big kids, and young adults, plus a cute collection of socks in the form of cats, owls, mice and more. Cowls and mittens, and some hat/scarf combinations, complete the set. With simple stitches, full instructions for making-up, and clear photographs to illustrate the all-important details, you can pick up your needles and knit a menagerie in no time.

Leseprobe

knitted animal scarves, mitts, and socks

knitted animal scarves, mitts, and socks

35 fun and fluffy creatures to knit and wear

Fiona Goble

Published in 2015 by CICO Books

An imprint of Ryland Peters & Small Ltd

20–21 Jockey’s Fields 341 E 116th St

London WC1R 4BW New York, NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5

Text © Fiona Goble 2015

Design and photography © CICO Books 2015

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

A CIP catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress and the British Library.

eISBN: 978-1-78249-513-0

ISBN: 978-1-78249-252-8

Printed in China

Editor: Kate Haxell

Designer: Vicky Rankin

Photographer: Terry Benson

Stylist: Rob Merrett

In-house designer: Fahema Khanam

Art director: Sally Powell

Production controller: Mai-Ling Collyer

Publishing manager and editor: Penny Craig

Publisher: Cindy Richards

contents

Introduction

CHAPTER 1 Country Creatures

Duckling scarf

Owl socks

Lamb scarf

Hedgehog mitts

Owl scarf

Mouse scarf

Pig scarf

Mouse socks

Honeycomb cowl

CHAPTER 2 Furry Friends

Fox scarf

Rabbit scarf

Tabby cat scarf

Marmalade kitten socks

Dog scarf

Fox mitts

Marmalade kitten scarf

CHAPTER 3 Water Lovers

Tropical frog scarf

Fish mittens

Octopus scoodie

Shark scarf

Alligator scarf

Frog socks

Fish scarf

Penguin socks

Seal pup scarf

CHAPTER 4 Wild Animals

Flamingo scarf

Monkey scarf

Snake socks

Koala scarf

Tiger cowl

Racoon scarf

Rattlesnake scarf

Elephant scarf

Bear scoodie

Zebra cowl

Techniques

Abbreviations and Acknowledgments

Suppliers

Index

introduction

Hot on the heels of the worldwide craze for knitted animal hats comes… knitted animal scarves. And for good measure, we’ve thrown in a few pairs of jaunty animal mitts and socks to keep your hands and feet feeling toasty, as well as your neck. So sit back, get out your yarn and needles, and rustle up a knitted fox stole and matching mitts—or any one of the 35 fun projects in this book.

On the following pages you’ll find instructions to create countryside animal knits, such as the hedgehog mitts (page 19) and owl scarf (page 22). There are also some jungle animals including a monkey scarf (page 90) and tiger cowl (page 98). And who could forget the family pet knits, such as the cat scarves (pages 44 and 57), rabbit scarf (page 41), and dog scarf (page 51)? However, if you fancy something to remind you of days by the sea, you might want to try your hand at the penguin socks (page 80) or fish scarf (page 78)—or perhaps even our friendly wooly shark (page 70).

For a knit a little less ordinary, take a peek at the flamingo scarf (page 88), the honeycomb cowl complete with tiny bees (page 34) and—my personal favorite—the lovely green alligator scarf (page 72).

Some of the projects are for smaller children, but there are plenty of styles for older children—and for adults, you can easily add a few rows to most of the scarves to make them longer (just remember you may need to buy more yarn).

Most of the scarves are quite straightforward to knit and some are suitable for almost complete beginners. I’ve ranked the projects according to the level of skills required, from one to three symbols. Those with one symbol should be well within the scope of “advanced beginner” knitters, but it’s a good idea to check through the instructions before buying your yarn, to make absolutely sure you feel confident.

The mitts and socks in the book are aimed at more experienced knitters, but if you’ve already knitted one-color gloves and socks and feel ready to work on something a little more exciting, they could be the perfect project to showcase your skills.

I’ve given details of all the yarns I’ve used in the book. You don’t have to follow my choice exactly, but if you’re knitting in a different yarn, make sure that you buy enough balls—the yardage for each ball is given for each pattern. And don’t forget to knit a gauge square before you begin so that your project will be the right size.

I really hope you have fun knitting these projects—and don’t forget, you don’t have to stick to the colors we’ve chosen. Why not break out and create something unique—anyone for a crimson alligator?

Fiona Goble

CHAPTER 1

country creatures

If farmyards and countryside rambles are high on your list of favorite things, check out the chirpy knits in this chapter. Choose from a softly sweet yellow duckling scarf or a wise owl mega-scarf. Or for the very little ones, how about a pair of super-cute mouse socks or a honeycomb cowl with bees?

duckling scarf

Who can resist a tiny, fluffy yellow duck? Well, not me. This wonderfully cute scarf is knitted in a combination of wool and mohair to make sure that it’s not just soft and fuzzy, but is also super warm. I think it would look great with a bright yellow PVC mac and sou’wester—or just about anything, come to think of it.

skill level

Yarn

Rowan Kid Classic (70% wool, 26% mohair, 4% nylon) worsted (Aran) yarn

1 x 1¾oz (50g) ball (153yd/140m) in shade 870 Rosewood (A)

Patons Merino Extrafine DK (100% wool) light worsted (DK) yarn

1 x 1¾oz (50g) ball (131yd/120m) in shade 00120 Sundance (B)

Rowan Kidsilk Haze (70% mohair, 30% silk) lace weight yarn

1 x ¾oz (25g) ball (230yd/210m) in shade 663 Essence (C)

Small amounts of black and off-white light worsted (DK) yarns

Needles and equipment

US 9 (5.5mm) knitting needles

Yarn sewing needle

Large-eyed embroidery needle

Gauge (tension)

17 sts and 20 rows in stockinette (stocking) stitch to a 4-in (10-cm) square on US 9 (5.5mm) needles using B and C held together.

Measurements

The finished scarf is 41¼in (105cm) long.

Abbreviations

See page 126.

To make scarf

Cast on 2 sts in A.

Row 1: [Inc] twice. (4 sts)

Row 2: K1, p2, k1.

Row 3: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. (6 sts)

Row 4: K1, p to last st, k1.

Rep last 2 rows 6 times more. (18 sts)

Break A and join in B and C, using the two yarns held together.

Row 17: K2, m1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2. (20 sts)

Row 18: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.

Rep last 2 rows twice more. (24 sts)

Row 23: Knit.

Row 24: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.

Rep rows 23–24, 81 times more.

Shape tail

Row 187: K7, turn. Work on 7 sts just knitted only, leaving rem sts on needle.

*Next row: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.

Next row: K3, [k1, p1, k1 all into next st], k3. (9 sts)

Next row: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.

Next row: Ssk, k2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next st], k2, k2tog.

Next row: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.

Rep last 2 rows, 5 times more.

Next row: K4, [k1, p1, k1 all into next st], k4. (11 sts)

Next row: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.

Next row: K5, [k1, p1, k1 all into next st], k5. (13 sts)

Next row: Ssk, p to last 2 sts, k2tog. (11 sts)

Next row: Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (9 sts)

Next row: Ssk, p to last 2 sts, k2tog. (7 sts)

Rep last 2 rows once more. (3 sts)

Next row: K3tog. (1 st)

Break yarn and fasten off.**

Rejoin yarn to rem sts on RS of work.

Next row: [K1, k2tog] 3 times, k1, turn. Work on 7 sts just knitted only, leaving rem sts on needle.

Rep from * to ** once more.

Rejoin yarn to rem sts on RS of work.

Next row: Knit.

Rep from * to ** once more.

To make up

Using black yarn, embroider two coils of chain stitch (see page 124) for the centers of the eyes. Work a ring of chain stitch around each eye center using off-white yarn. Using black yarn, work two straight stitches (see page 124) on the beak for the nostrils.

Weave in all loose ends.

here’s a tip

If you make a mistake when knitting with mohair yarn, take extra care when unraveling your work. It helps to hold the work close to where you’re unraveling, to make sure the fibers don’t stretch and snag.

owl socks

If you haven’t yet got your fair share of all things owl, here is your chance to stand out from the crowd and knit a pair of owl socks. The socks can be knitted on a set of double-pointed needles or a short circular needle. Both take a bit of getting used to if you haven’t worked in this way before, but the pattern itself is very simple. I’ve knitted these owls in shades of rust and ochre, but you can knit yours in any color you like: keep it realistic or take a flight of fancy.

skill level

Yarn and materials

Rowan Pure Wool DK (100% wool) light worsted (DK) yarn

1 x 1¾oz (50g) ball (142yd/130m) in shade 049 Ox Blood (A)

1 x 1¾oz (50g) ball (142yd/130m) in shade 051 Gold (B)

Small amount of light worsted (DK) yarn in off-white (C)

Small amount of light worsted (DK) yarn in turquoise (D)

Small amount of light worsted (DK) yarn in gray (E)

4 x ⅜-in (10-mm) black buttons

Needles and equipment

US 8 (5mm) knitting needles

A set of 4 (or 5) US 6 (4mm) double-pointed needles (DPNs) or a US 6 (4mm) short circular needle designed for knitting socks and other smaller items (see page 122 for more information on knitting on DPNs and circular needles) US 2/3 (3mm) knitting needles

Stitch marker or small safety pin

Yarn sewing needle

Gauge (tension)

22 sts and 30 rows in stockinette (stocking) stich to a 4-in (10-cm) square on US 6 (4mm) needles.

Measurements

The finished socks measure 6¾in (17cm) from the heel to the tip of the toe. They should fit a child’s shoe size US 11½–12½ (UK 10½–11½/EU 29–30).

Abbreviations

See page 126.

To make socks

Make 2

Using US 8 (5mm) needles, cast on 40 sts in A. Transfer sts to DPNs or circular needle and mark your first cast-on stitch with stitch marker or small safety pin.

Round 1: [K2, p2] to end.

Rep round 1, 4 times more.

Break A and join in B.

Knit 30 rounds.

Shape heel back

Break B and join in A.

Row 1: K10, turn. (10 sts)

Row 2: P20. (20 sts)

(If using DPNs, keep all 20 sts on one needle.)

Row 3: [Sl1, k1] to end.

Row 4: Sl1 pwise, p to end.

Rep rows 3–4, 9 times more.

Shape heel base

Row 23: K12, ssk, k1, turn. (19 sts)

Row 24: Sl1 pwise, p5, p2tog, p1, turn. (18 sts)

Row 25: Sl1, k6, ssk, k1, turn. (17 sts)

Row 26: Sl1 pwise, p7, p2tog, p1, turn. (16 sts)

Row 27: Sl1, k8, ssk, k1, turn. (15 sts)

Row 28: Sl1 pwise, p9, p2tog, p1, turn. (14 sts)

Row 29: Sl1, k10, ssk, turn. (13 sts)

Row 30: Sl1, p10, p2tog, turn. (12 sts)

Shape foot

Break A and join in B. Work remainder of sock in B.

Row 31 and forming base for rounds: Knit, putting stitch marker or safety pin between 6th and 7th sts to mark back of sock. With empty needle if using DPNs, pick up and k 10 sts up first side of heel back then k across 20 sts of top part of sock.

With another empty needle if using DPNs, pick up and k 10 sts down side of second heel back and then k 6 sts along base of heel (to stitch marker). These 52 sts will form the foot part of the sock.

Round 1: K13, k2tog, k22, ssk, k13. (50 sts)

Round 2: Knit.

Round 3: K12, k2tog, k22, ssk, k12. (48 sts)

Round 4: Knit.

Round 5: K11, k2tog, k22, ssk, k11. (46 sts)

Round 6: Knit.

Round 7: K10, k2tog, k22, ssk, k10. (44 sts)

Round 8: Knit.

Round 9: K9, k2tog, k22, ssk, k9. (42 sts)

Round 10: Knit.

Round 11: K8, k2tog, k22, ssk, k8. (40 sts)

Knit 23 more rounds.

Shape toe

Round 1: K7, ssk, k2, k2tog, k14, ssk, k2, k2tog, k7. (36 sts)

Round 2: Knit.

Round 1: K6, ssk, k2, k2tog, k12, ssk, k2, k2tog, k6. (32 sts)

Round 2: Knit.

Round 3: K5, ssk, k2, k2tog, k10, ssk, k2, k2tog, k5. (28 sts)

Round 4: Knit.

Round 5: K4, ssk, k2, k2tog, k8, ssk, k2, k2tog, k4. (24 sts)

Round 6: Knit.

Round 7: K3, ssk, k2, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2, k2tog, k3. (20 sts)

Round 8: K2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2. (16 sts)

Round 9: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. (12 sts)

Break yarn, thread it through rem sts, and pull up securely.

Eye bases

Make 4

Using US 2/3 (3mm) needles, cast on 24 sts in C.

Row 1: Knit.

Row 2: [P2tog] to end. (12 sts)

Row 3: Knit.

Row 4: [P2tog] to end. (6 sts)

Break yarn, thread it through rem sts, and pull up securely.

Eye fringes

Make 4

Using US 2/3 (3mm) needles, cast on 3 sts in D.

*Bind (cast) off 2 sts, transfer rem st from right to left needle without turning work. One picot made.

Cast on 2 sts.**

Rep from * to ** till you have 12 picots. Fasten off.

Beak

Make 2

Using US 2/3 (3mm) needles, cast on 4 sts in E.

Beg with a k row, work 2 rows in st st.

Row 3: Ssk, k2tog. (2 sts)

Row 4: P2tog. (1 st)

Break yarn and fasten off.

To make up

For the eyes, fold the eye bases in half so that the RS is on the inside and oversew (see page 125) the seam (row edges) to form a disc. Oversew the eye bases in place on the front ankle part of the socks, near the top. Oversew the picot edging in place around eye bases. Sew the buttons in place in the centers of the eyes.

Oversew the beaks in place.

Weave in all loose ends.

here’s a tip

If you want to make your socks quicker and simpler to complete, you can use big buttons sewn on with white yarn for the eyes, instead of knitting the eye pieces.

lamb scarf

There’s something super-cute about creating a lamb out of lambswool—so there’s no way I was going to miss this one out of the collection. The scarf is knitted in a soft wool-rich yarn that I’ve combined with a light-as-a-feather mohair yarn, to make it even fluffier. With its black feet and soulful eyes, this scarf will brighten the life of anyone who wears it.

skill level

Yarn

King Cole Magnum Lightweight Chunky (75% acrylic, 25% wool) bulky (chunky) yarn

1 x 3½oz (100g) ball (120yd/110m) in shade 010 Champagne (A)

1 x 3½oz (100g) ball (120yd/110m) in shade 187 Charcoal (D)

Phildar Nebuleuse (41% wool, 41% acrylic, 18% nylon) bulky (chunky) yarn

2 x 1¾oz (50g) balls (56yd/51m) in shade 0032 Ecru (B)

Wendy Air (70% kid mohair, 30% nylon) lace weight yarn

1 x ¾oz (25g) ball (218yd/200m) in shade 2612 Lottie (C)

Needles and equipment

US 10 (6mm) knitting needles

US 10½/11 (7mm) knitting needles

Yarn sewing needle

Large-eyed embroidery needle

Gauge (tension)

14 sts and 16 rows in stockinette (stocking) stitch to a 4-in (10-cm) square on US 10½/11 (7mm) needles using B and C held together.

Measurements

The finished scarf is 47¼in (120cm) long, including back legs.

Abbreviations

See page 126.

To make scarf

Using US 10 (6mm) needles, cast on 6 sts in A.

Row 1: Inc, k3, inc, k1. (8 sts)

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. (10 sts)

Row 4: Purl.

Rep rows 3–4, 5 times more. (20 sts)

Beg with a k row, work 8 rows in st st.

Row 23: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (18 sts)

Break A and join in B and C, using the two yarns held together.

Change to US 10½/11 (7mm) needles.

Row 24: Knit.

Row 25: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.

Knit 2 rows.

Rep rows 24–27 (last 4 rows), 32 times more.

Row 156: Knit.

Row 157: Purl.

Bind (cast) off.

Face

Using US 10 (6mm) needles, cast on 6 sts in A.

Row 1: Inc, k3, inc, k1. (8 sts)

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. (10 sts)

Row 4: Purl.

Rep rows 3–4, 5 times more. (20 sts)

Beg with a k row, work 8 rows in st st.

Bind (cast) off.

Front leg

Make 2

Using US 10 (6mm) needles, cast on 6 sts in A.

Knit 16 rows.

Break A and join in D.

Beg with a k row, work 10 rows in st st.

Shape foot

Row 27: Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (4 sts)

Row 28: Purl.

Row 29: Ssk, k2tog. (2 sts)

Row 30: Skpo. (1 st)

Break yarn and fasten off.

Back leg

Make 2

Using US 10 (6mm) needles, cast on 6 sts in A.

Knit 12 rows.

Break A and join in D.

Beg with a k row, work 10 rows in st st.

Shape foot

Row 23: Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (4 sts)

Row 24: Purl.

Row 25: Ssk, k2tog. (2 sts)

Row 26: Skpo. (1 st)

Break yarn and fasten off.

Ear

Make 2

Using US 10 (6mm) needles, cast on 5 sts in A.

Beg with a k row, work 5 rows in st st.

Row 6: P2tog, p1, p2tog. (3 sts)

Row 7: [Inc] twice, k1. (5 sts)

Beg with a p row, work 5 rows in st st.

Bind (cast) off.

Tail

Using US 10½/11 (7mm) needles, cast on 6 sts with B and C held together.

Beg with a k row, work 8 rows in st st.

Row 9: Skpo, k2, k2tog. (4 sts)

Row 10: [P2tog] twice. (2 sts)

Row 11: K2tog. (1 st)

Break yarn and fasten off.

Fringe

Using US 10½/11 (7mm) needles, cast on 7 sts with B and C held together.

Row 1: Knit—winding your yarn around the needle 4 times for each st.

Row 2: Knit, dropping extra loops on each stitch.

Bind (cast) off.

To make up

On face, using a separated strand of D, embroider two circles for the eyes and the lines for the nose in chain stitch (see page 124). Using a single strand of D, work three straight stitches (see page 124) above each eye for the lashes.

Place the face on the head part of the main scarf so that the right sides are together. Oversew (see page 125) the side seams. Turn the head the right way out and sew the top edge in place using mattress stitch (see page 125).

Oversew the front legs in place underneath the head, where the head meets the main part of the scarf.

Fold the ear pieces in half so that the right sides are on the inside. Oversew around the sides leaving the lower (cast-on) edge open for turning. Turn and oversew the lower edge. Oversew the ears in place using the photograph as a guide. Fold the fringe in half lengthwise to form a row of loops. Oversew in place.

Sew the back seam of the tail using flat stitch (see page 125). Oversew the tail in place in the center of the lamb’s lower end, just where the garter stitch border meets the main part of the scarf.

Sew back legs to bound- (cast-) off edge of scarf.

Weave in all loose ends.

hedgehog mitts

Who can resist a cute little hedgehog—especially ones that are prickle-free with not a flea in sight—making these the perfect mittens to keep small hands warm in winter. I’ve knitted the back of these mitts in a gorgeous milky brown, 100% wool yarn, and teamed it with a super-soft beige yarn for the little animal’s snout. The textured knit on the back of the mittens is very simple to work, but gives a lovely rough feel to the knitting to suggest the hedgehog’s spines.

skill level

Yarn

Erika Knight Vintage Wool (100% wool) worsted (Aran) yarn

1 x 1¾oz (50g) ball (95yd/87m) in shade 044 Milk Chocolate (A)

Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran (55% wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere) worsted (Aran) yarn

1 x 1¾oz (50g) ball (98yd/90m) in shade 102 Beige (B)

Small amount of black light worsted (DK) yarn

Needles and equipment

US 8 (5mm) knitting needles

Yarn sewing needle

Large-eyed embroidery needle

Gauge (tension)

18 sts and 24 rows in stockinette (stocking) stitch to a 4-in (10-cm) square on US 8 (5mm) needles (for both yarns).

Measurements

The finished mittens measure 7½in (19cm) from the base of the wrist to the tip and should fit an average size child of 7–10 years.

Abbreviations

See page 126.

Left mitten

Cast on 34 sts in A.

Row 1: [K2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2: [P2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2.

Rep rows 1–2, 3 times more.

Row 9: K17, [p1, k1] to last st, p1.

Row 10: [K1, p1] 9 times, p to end.

Row 11: K18, [p1, k1] to end.

Row 12: [P1, k1] 8 times, p to end.

Row 13: K14, inc, k1, inc, [p1, k1] to last st, p1. (36 sts)

Row 14: [K1, p1] 8 times, k1, p to end.

Row 15: K14, inc, k3, inc, k1, [p1, k1] to end. (38 sts)

Row 16: [P1, k1] 8 times, p to end.

Row 17: K14, inc, k5, inc, [p1, k1] to last st, p1. (40 sts)

Row 18: [K1, p1] 8 times, k1, p to end.

Row 19: K14, inc, k7, inc, [k1, p1] to last st, k1. (42 sts)

Row 20: [P1, k1] 8 times, p to end.

Row 21: K25, [p1, k1] to last st, p1.

Row 22: [K1, p1] 8 times, k1, p to end.

Shape thumb

Next row: K24, turn and cast on 1 st.

*Next row: P11, turn and cast on 1 st.

Work on these 12 sts just worked, leaving rem sts on needles.

Beg with a k row, work 6 rows in st st.

Next row: K1, [k2tog, k2] twice, k2tog, k1. (9 sts)

Next row: Purl.

Next row: [K1, k2tog] 3 times. (6 sts)

Break yarn, thread it through rem sts, and pull up securely.

With RS facing, rejoin yarn and pick up and k 2 sts across base of thumb then [p1, k1] to end. (34 sts)

Row 24: