Modern Crocheted Shawls and Wraps E-Book

Laura Strutt

• Herausgeber: CICO Books
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2017

Beschreibung

Crochet your own shawls, wraps, capelets and more from this collection of stylish patterns

Das E-Book wird angeboten von und wurde mit folgenden Begriffen kategorisiert:

Leseprobe

MODERN CROCHETED

SHAWLS & WRAPS

MODERN CROCHETED

SHAWLS&WRAPS

35 STYLISH WAYS TO KEEP WARM FROM LACY SHAWLS TO CHUNKY WRAPS

LAURA STRUTT

Dedicated to Charlotte Styles and Hazel Cruickshank, my Granny and Grandma, for filling my childhood with knitting, crochet and all kinds of crafts, even though I probably didn't pay as much attention as I should have!

Published in 2016 by CICO Books

An imprint of Ryland Peters & Small Ltd

20–21 Jockey’s Fields 341 E 116th St

London WC1R 4BW New York, NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © Laura Strutt 2016

Design, photography and illustration © CICO Books 2016

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

A CIP catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress and the British Library.

ISBN: 978-1-78249-311-2

E-ISBN: 978-1-78249-624-3

Printed in China

Editor: Rachel Atkinson

Pattern checker: Jemima Bicknell

Designer: Geoff Borin

Photographer: Emma Mitchell and Penny Wincer

Stylist: Nel Haynes

Art director: Sally Powell

Head of production: Patricia Harrington

Publishing manager: Penny Craig

Publisher: Cindy Richards

CONTENTS

Introduction

Before you Begin

Abbreviations

Chapter 1

BRIGHT AND BEAUTIFUL

Stash-buster Stripes

Pretty in Pink

Pansies and Fuchsias

Boho Chic

Seashore Stripes

Navajo Sunrise

Flower Garden

Paintbox Palette

Emerald Puff

Sparkling Stars

Zig-zag Stripes

Chapter 2

WARM AND RICH

Golden Glow

Green Apples

Woodland Colours

Rose Garden

Yo-yo Throw

Made Peachy

Berries and Cream

Roasted Chestnuts

Vintage Style

Winter Bouquet

Misty Morning

Walled Garden

Old-fashioned Rose

On the Moors

Chapter 3

NEUTRAL AND NATURAL

Archer’s Cowl

Shades of Blue

Splash of Orange

River’s Edge

Fields of Barley

All at Sea

Eternally Green

Soft Summer Night

Night Sky

By the Lake

Techniques

Suppliers

Index

Acknowledgments

INTRODUCTION

A crochet shawl is a colourful way to liven up your wardrobe: from classic triangle shawls, rectangular wraps and capes, to cowls and cover-ups, there is something for every style and season. Not only can these stylish pieces complete your look in an instant, there is often nothing quite as comforting as wrapping oneself up in a sumptuous hand-crocheted wrap – and the larger ones can double up as throws, to be draped over sofas or beds.

Crochet is one of my favourite creative pastimes. With its wide variety of stitches, techniques and creative possibilities, it is both a relaxing and calming pursuit and a challenging yet hugely rewarding craft. There is also great satisfaction to be had from creating your own garments to wear, and shawls can be worn by all of us, regardless of body shape, size, age, gender or personal style. What I love most about shawls is that these clever accessories can really transform a look and the classic shapes and structure give so many options for colours, stitch patterns, techniques and even construction, to create a unique wearable piece. When I created this collection of 35 modern crochet shawl designs I wanted to offer something for everyone, from cosy capes such as On the Moors, and chunky makes like the Archer’s Cowl, to feminine cover-ups and clever constructions as seen in Rose Garden and Eternally Green.

Crocheted shawls and wraps are a fabulous way to try out new techniques, like making yo-yos for the Yo-yo Throw, or granny hexagons for piecing together a Pansies and Fuchsias geometric throw. As well as being able to try a wealth of techniques and stitch designs when creating your shawl, you can also have lots of fun with colour: try creating ombré effects as used for Soft Summer Night, make a statement with colour blocks for Navajo Sunrise or even raid your stash for the mix-and-match design of Stash-buster Stripes. The possibilities are endless!

I hope that this modern collection of crochet shawls will win its way into your heart as you fill your wardrobe and your home with wonderful handmade creations!

Happy Crocheting!

Laura

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Crochet shawls, wraps and throws are very satisfying projects to make – not only are you able to try out a range of different techniques and stitch patterns, but you also create a unique handmade accessory to wear with pride!

The projects in this book are great as statement accessories or cosy cover-ups, or simply for a flash of pick-me-up colour! What’s more, because these are all “one size” makes, they are ideal for any body shape, size, gender or age and also make ideal and thoughtful gifts for friends and family.

TIPS and HINTS

• Many of the patterns use multiple shades of yarns, in repeated motifs like the Pansies and Fuchsias geometric throw (page 18) or stripes like the Stash-buster Stripes (page 12). Colour changes will leave lots of yarn ends to weave in, which can be very time consuming, so try to weave in the ends as you work to make the process of finishing your project quicker and easier.

• Locking stitch markers make a great addition to your crochet tool kit and are used in a number of projects featured throughout this book including Paintbox Palette (page 34) and Navajo Sunrise (page 28). Placing a marker in a key stitch, such as the central “spine” of a shawl, or increase and shaping points, will help you to keep track of where you are in a row, or you can use them to indicate where buttons should be stitched. Remember to move the stitch marker up with each row or use two in tandem with one another. Safety pins can be used at a pinch, but mind they don’t snag or leave rust marks on your crochet fabric.

• Crochet shawls benefit hugely from blocking once complete; not only does blocking help the pieces to lay neatly and to the given measurements, it also opens up the stitches to really show off the pretty details of your hard work and gives a professional finish. You can block your finished make either with steam from the iron, or by soaking in lukewarm water and pinning into shape to dry. Remember to check the ball band of the yarn for specific details on washing the yarn, and take care when steaming acrylic and acrylic blend yarns as they can easily stretch out of shape – wet blocking will be a much better option. Cotton and silk yarns can be blocked firmly to encourage the fibres to sit neatly in place.

• Some of the projects in this book are quite large, for example the Yo-yo Throw (page 58) and By the Lake (page 114). The scale of these makes can initially be daunting, but breaking them down into sections of different stitch pattern repeats or colours will give you smaller goals to work towards – “I’ll just do one more section in yarn A” or “five more repeats of this two-row stitch pattern” and so on.

• It is very important, particularly for the larger single-colour projects, that you have enough yarn before starting. Buying all the required yarn in one go can be expensive but it will mean you have balls or skeins from the same dye lot. Different dye lots can vary slightly in colour and changes in dye lots partway through a project will be noticeable.

• Almost all the makes featured in this book can easily be sized up or down by working fewer or more repeats of the stitch patterns, or simply by selecting a finer or chunkier yarn and matching with the appropriate hook size. Making a project larger will of course require more yarn and it is also important to remember that triangular, granny square and inside-out circular shaped patterns grow in stitch counts as well as rows as the shape expands. Ensure you buy more yarn than you estimate so you don’t run out halfway through a row. It is also worth bearing in mind that certain stitches, such as the puff stitch featured in Emerald Puff (page 38) and Pretty in Pink (page 16) require a lot of yarn.

YARN

Crochet shawls can be made from almost any style, thickness, fibre and finish of yarn. Each will have different properties and lend itself to different looks for the finished piece. Chunky and super-chunky yarns create a denser fabric and make for wonderfully quick and cosy projects, whilst projects using lighter weight yarns might take slightly longer to complete, but will create finished designs with more drape and fluidity.

The patterns in this book showcase a range of effects and finishes you can achieve by using different weights, fibres and styles of yarn – you can even raid your yarn stash to create these makes, just be sure to check the details of the yarn weights, amounts and tension when substituting yarn.

A guide for the tension is given with each pattern, and whilst matching this given tension is not as paramount when making shawls as with more fitted garments, it is important to achieve a tension as close as possible to the one provided so your finished make has the same look, feel and sizing as shown in the photographs. Check your tension before starting the project and make adjustments by simply switching the size of the hook – if your tension is too tight and the stitches on your tension swatch are smaller than those recommended, try using a hook one size larger. Similarly, if your stitches are too large, switch to a hook one size smaller and rework the tension swatch. See page 120 for information on tension swatches.

Maintaining an even tension throughout your project is important for a neat and tidy finish as all the stitches will be of a similar size. This is particularly important for projects with feature stitches such as the puff stitch in Stash-buster Stripes (page 12) where even tension will create a series of uniform puff stitches throughout the shawl.

If you are working on a larger, more involved shawl such as Splash of Orange (page 96) and you want to take a break from it, be sure to make a note of the hook you have been using so that when you return to it you will be able to achieve the same, consistent tension.

EQUIPMENT

Crochet hooks: The patterns in this book indicate the size of hook to use with the yarn listed for the project. You can adjust these where necessary to accommodate yarn substitutions and to adjust your tension. How you hold your hook is a matter of preference – left-handed or right-handed, some like to hold their hook in a pencil-grip, while others prefer to hold it in their fist. There is no right or wrong way, as long as you are able to move your wrist freely and can comfortably work neat and even stitches. See page 118 in the techniques section for further guidance.

Crochet hooks used in the book:

UK/Metric

US

4mm

G/6

5mm

H/8

6mm

J/10

8mm

L/11

9mm

M/13

15 or 16mm

P/16

Tapestry and yarn needles: These are used to secure the ends of the yarn at the start and end of the project and also where changing colours. For heavier weight yarns, try using a split-eye needle or even a small crochet hook to secure in the ends neatly.

Sewing needle and thread: Handy to have for securing buttons and fastenings to finished makes.

Tape measure: Always useful for checking tension swatches and finished sizes when blocking.

Rust-proof pins: For holding your project in shape while it is being blocked.

ABBREVIATIONS

cm

Centimetre(s)

ch

Chain

ch-sp(s)

Chain-space(s)

dc

Double crochet

dc2tog

Double crochet 2 stitches together

dtr

Double treble crochet

FLO

Front loop only

FPtr

Front post treble crochet

g

Gram(mes)

htr

Half treble crochet

in

Inch(es)

m

Metre(s)

mm

Millimetre(s)

oz

Ounce(s)

PS

Puff stitch

rep(s)

Repeat(s)

RS

Right side of work

sl

Slip

st(s)

Stitch(es)

t-ch

Turning chain

tr

Treble crochet

tr2tog

Treble crochet 2 stitches together

yd(s)

Yard(s)

yrh

Yarn round hook

WS

Wrong side of work

SKILL LEVEL

Each project includes a star rating as a skill level guide and you will find the project includes the techniques listed below:

YYY Projects for first-time crocheters using basic stitches with minimal shaping.

YYY Projects using basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple colour changes, and simple shaping and finishing.

YYY Projects using a variety of techniques, such as basic lace patterns or colour patterns, mid-level shaping and finishing.

Chapter 1

BRIGHT AND BEAUTIFUL

Skill Rating: YYY

Stash-buster STRIPES

Create your own sampler shawl by using a variety of colours and a range of different stitches. This super-sized, top down design makes a fantastic statement piece for your wardrobe.

MATERIALS

• Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland wool; 200m/220yds per 100g/3½oz skein) aran-weight yarn

3 x 100g (3½oz) skeins in shade 8011 Aspen Heather (A)

1 x 100g (3½oz) skein in shade 8907 Caribbean (B)

1 x 100g (3½oz) skein in shade 9463B Gold (C)

1 x 100g (3½oz) skein in shade 8911 Grape Jelly (D)

1 x 100g (3½oz) skein in shade 7801 Rouge Red (E)

1 x 100g (3½oz) skein in shade 8311 Mineral Blue (F)

• 5mm (US H/8) crochet hook

• Locking stitch marker

• Tapestry needle

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

90cm (35½in) deep x 212cm (83½in) wide

TENSION

14 sts and 8 rows to measure 10cm (4in)

ABBREVIATIONS

See page 9.

SPECIAL STITCHES

Puff Stitch (PS): *Yarn round hook, pass through stitch, draw yarn through, keeping the yarn loops long; rep from * a further 5 times, yarn round hook again and draw through all loops on the hook, work 1ch to close the stitch.

FOR THE SHAWL

Foundation: Using yarn A and 5mm (US H/8) hook, make a magic ring. Work 4ch (counts as 1tr and 1ch), *1tr, 1ch into ring; rep from * twice more, 1tr into ring. Draw up tightly to conceal the hole and create a small half-moon shape with 5 sts. Turn and continue in rows as follows:

Row 1: 4ch (counts as 1tr and 1ch throughout), 1tr in same st, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in next st, 1tr in ch-sp, 1ch, 1tr and place marker in the st to indicate centre spine, 1ch, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in next st, 1tr in ch-sp, [1tr, 1ch, 1tr] in last st (third ch of 4ch from previous row), turn. (11 sts)

Row 2: 4ch, 1tr in same st, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in each of next 4 sts, 1tr in ch-sp, 1ch, 1tr in marked st, move marker, 1ch, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in each of next 4 sts, 1tr in ch-sp, [1tr, 1ch, 1tr] in last st, turn. (17 sts)

Row 3: 4ch, 1tr in same st, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in each of next 7 sts, 1tr in ch-sp, 1ch, 1tr in marked st, move marker, 1ch, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in each of next 7 sts, 1tr in ch-sp, [1tr, 1ch, 1tr] in last st, turn. (23 sts)

Tip

Use a locking stitch marker to keep track of the central “spine” stitch of this shawl by placing it in the 1tr as indicated in the pattern and move it up with each row as you work.

Row 4: 4ch, 1tr in same st, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in each of next 10 sts, 1tr in ch-sp, 1ch, 1tr in marked st, move marker, 1ch, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in each of next 10 sts, 1tr in ch-sp, [1tr, 1ch, 1tr] in last st, turn. (29 sts)

Row 5: 4ch, 1tr in same st, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in each st to marked st, 1tr in ch-sp, 1ch, 1tr in marked st, move marker, 1ch, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in each st to last st, 1tr in ch-sp, [1tr, 1ch, 1tr] in last st, turn. (35 sts)

Rows 6–34: Continue in pattern, working reps of Row 5 for a further 28 rows and increasing 6tr with each row (3tr in each half of shawl) as set. (33 rows worked in total – 203 sts)

Row 35: Change to yarn B, 4ch, 1tr in same st, 1tr in ch-sp, *miss 1 st, 1ch, 1tr in next st; rep from * to marked st, 1tr in ch-sp, 1ch, 1tr in marked st, move marker, 1ch, 1tr in ch-sp, **1tr in next st, miss 1 st, 1ch; rep from ** to last ch-sp, 1tr in ch-sp, [1tr, 1ch, 1tr] in last st, turn.

Row 36: Change to yarn A, 4ch, 1tr in same st, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in each st and ch-sp to marked st, 1ch, 1tr in marked st, move marker, 1ch, 1tr in each st and ch-sp to last ch-sp, 1tr in last ch-sp, [1tr, 1ch, 1tr] in last st, turn.

Row 37: Change to yarn C, work as Row 35.

Row 38: Change to yarn A, work as Row 36.

Row 39: Change to yarn D, work as Row 35.

Row 40: Change to yarn A, work as Row 36.

Row 41: Change to yarn E, work as Row 35.

Row 42: Change to yarn A, work as Row 36.

Row 43: Work as Row 5.

Row 44: Change to yarn B, work as Row 5.

Row 45: Change to yarn C, work as Row 5.

Row 46: Change to yarn D, work as Row 5.

Row 47: Change to yarn E, work as Row 5.

Row 48: Change to yarn B, 4ch, 1tr in same st, 1tr in ch-sp, *1PS in next st, 1ch, miss next st; rep from * to marked st, 1tr in ch-sp, 1ch, 1tr in marked st, move marker, 1ch, 1tr in ch-sp, *1ch, miss next st, 1PS in next st; rep from ** to last st, 1tr in ch-sp, [1tr, 1ch, 1tr] in last st, turn.

Row 49: Change to yarn C, 1tr in same st, 1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in each st and ch-sp to marked st, 1ch, 1tr in marked st, move marker, 1ch, 1tr in each st and ch-sp to last ch-sp, 1tr in last ch-sp, [1tr, 1ch, 1tr] in last st, turn.

Row 50: Change to yarn D, work as Row 48.

Row 51: Change to yarn E, work as Row 49.

Row 52: Change to yarn A, work as Row 35.

Row 53: Change to yarn B, work as Row 36.

Row 54: Change to yarn C, work as Row 48.

Row 55: Change to yarn D, work as Row 49.

Row 56: Change to yarn E, work as Row 48.

Row 57: Change to yarn A, work as Row 49.

Make it yours

This shawl is the perfect design for using up odd skeins of yarn in your stash, by working with a range of different colours in the lower section and even introducing your own favourite stitches to create a shawl that is unique to you.

FOR THE EDGING

The edging is worked in a continuous round along all sides of the shawl as follows:

Round 1: Change to yarn F, work 1ch (does not count as st), [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in first st, 1dc in each st to marker, [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in marked st, move marker, 1dc in each st to last st, [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in last st, now continue working 2dc in each tr along upper edge, join with sl st in first st.

Round 2: *[3ch, sl st in third ch from hook (picot made), miss next st, 1dc in next st; rep from * around the entire shawl, join with a sl st in first st.

Fasten off.

MAKING UP AND FINISHING

Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements, paying close attention to the picot edging and gently pulling the points into shape.