Right away in the west of
Ireland lies a tiny hamlet called Kraighten. It is situated, alone,
at the base of a low hill. Far around there spreads a waste of
bleak and totally inhospitable country; where, here and there at
great intervals, one may come upon the ruins of some long desolate
cottage—unthatched and stark. The whole land is bare and unpeopled,
the very earth scarcely covering the rock that lies beneath it, and
with which the country abounds, in places rising out of the soil in
wave-shaped ridges.
Yet, in spite of its desolation,
my friend Tonnison and I had elected to spend our vacation there.
He had stumbled on the place by mere chance the year previously,
during the course of a long walking tour, and discovered the
possibilities for the angler in a small and unnamed river that runs
past the outskirts of the little village.
I have said that the river is
without name; I may add that no map that I have hitherto consulted
has shown either village or stream. They seem to have entirely
escaped observation: indeed, they might never exist for all that
the average guide tells one. Possibly this can be partly accounted
for by the fact that the nearest railway station (Ardrahan) is some
forty miles distant.
It was early one warm evening
when my friend and I arrived in Kraighten. We had reached Ardrahan
the previous night, sleeping there in rooms hired at the village
post office, and leaving in good time on the following morning,
clinging insecurely to one of the typical jaunting cars.
It had taken us all day to
accomplish our journey over some of the roughest tracks imaginable,
with the result that we were thoroughly tired and somewhat bad
tempered. However, the tent had to be erected and our goods stowed
away before we could think of food or rest. And so we set to work,
with the aid of our driver, and soon had the tent up upon a small
patch of ground just outside the little village, and quite near to
the river.
Then, having stored all our
belongings, we dismissed the driver, as he had to make his way back
as speedily as possible, and told him to come across to us at the
end of a fortnight. We had brought sufficient provisions to last us
for that space of time, and water we could get from the stream.
Fuel we did not need, as we had included a small oil-stove among
our outfit, and the weather was fine and warm.
It was Tonnison's idea to camp
out instead of getting lodgings in one of the cottages. As he put
it, there was no joke in sleeping in a room with a numerous family
of healthy Irish in one corner and the pigsty in the other, while
overhead a ragged colony of roosting fowls distributed their
blessings impartially, and the whole place so full of peat smoke
that it made a fellow sneeze his head off just to put it inside the
doorway.
Tonnison had got the stove lit
now and was busy cutting slices of bacon into the frying pan; so I
took the kettle and walked down to the river for water. On the way,
I had to pass close to a little group of the village people, who
eyed me curiously, but not in any unfriendly manner, though none of
them ventured a word.
As I returned with my kettle
filled, I went up to them and, after a friendly nod, to which they
replied in like manner, I asked them casually about the fishing;
but, instead of answering, they just shook their heads silently,
and stared at me. I repeated the question, addressing more
particularly a great, gaunt fellow at my elbow; yet again I
received no answer. Then the man turned to a comrade and said
something rapidly in a language that I did not understand; and, at
once, the whole crowd of them fell to jabbering in what, after a
few moments, I guessed to be pure Irish. At the same time they cast
many glances in my direction. For a minute, perhaps, they spoke
among themselves thus; then the man I had addressed faced 'round at
me and said something. By the expression of his face I guessed that
he, in turn, was questioning me; but now I had to shake my head,
and indicate that I did not comprehend what it was they wanted to
know; and so we stood looking at one another, until I heard
Tonnison calling to me to hurry up with the kettle. Then, with a
smile and a nod, I left them, and all in the little crowd smiled
and nodded in return, though their faces still betrayed their
puzzlement.
It was evident, I reflected as I
went toward the tent, that the inhabitants of these few huts in the
wilderness did not know a word of English; and when I told
Tonnison, he remarked that he was aware of the fact, and, more,
that it was not at all uncommon in that part of the country, where
the people often lived and died in their isolated hamlets without
ever coming in contact with the outside world.
"I wish we had got the driver to
interpret for us before he left," I remarked, as we sat down to our
meal. "It seems so strange for the people of this place not even to
know what we've come for."
Tonnison grunted an assent, and
thereafter was silent for a while.
Later, having satisfied our
appetites somewhat, we began to talk, laying our plans for the
morrow; then, after a smoke, we closed the flap of the tent, and
prepared to turn in.
"I suppose there's no chance of
those fellows outside taking anything?" I asked, as we rolled
ourselves in our blankets.
Tonnison said that he did not
think so, at least while we were about; and, as he went on to
explain, we could lock up everything, except the tent, in the big
chest that we had brought to hold our provisions. I agreed to this,
and soon we were both asleep.
Next morning, early, we rose and
went for a swim in the river; after which we dressed and had
breakfast. Then we roused out our fishing tackle and overhauled it,
by which time, our breakfasts having settled somewhat, we made all
secure within the tent and strode off in the direction my friend
had explored on his previous visit.
During the day we fished happily,
working steadily upstream, and by evening we had one of the
prettiest creels of fish that I had seen for a long while.
Returning to the village, we made a good feed off our day's spoil,
after which, having selected a few of the finer fish for our
breakfast, we presented the remainder to the group of villagers who
had assembled at a respectful distance to watch our doings. They
seemed wonderfully grateful, and heaped mountains of what I
presumed to be Irish blessings upon our heads.
Thus we spent several days,
having splendid sport, and first-rate appetites to do justice upon
our prey. We were pleased to find how friendly the villagers were
inclined to be, and that there was no evidence of their having
ventured to meddle with our belongings during our absences.
It was on a Tuesday that we
arrived in Kraighten, and it would be on the Sunday following that
we made a great discovery. Hitherto we had always gone up-stream;
on that day, however, we laid aside our rods, and, taking some
provisions, set off for a long ramble in the opposite direction.
The day was warm, and we trudged along leisurely enough, stopping
about mid-day to eat our lunch upon a great flat rock near the
riverbank. Afterward we sat and smoked awhile, resuming our walk
only when we were tired of inaction.
For perhaps another hour we
wandered onward, chatting quietly and comfortably on this and that
matter, and on several occasions stopping while my companion—who is
something of an artist—made rough sketches of striking bits of the
wild scenery.
And then, without any warning
whatsoever, the river we had followed so confidently, came to an
abrupt end—vanishing into the earth.
"Good Lord!" I said, "who ever
would have thought of this?"
And I stared in amazement; then I
turned to Tonnison. He was looking, with a blank expression upon
his face, at the place where the river disappeared.
In a moment he spoke.
"Let us go on a bit; it may
reappear again—anyhow, it is worth investigating."
I agreed, and we went forward
once more, though rather aimlessly; for we were not at all certain
in which direction to prosecute our search. For perhaps a mile we
moved onward; then Tonnison, who had been gazing about curiously,
stopped and shaded his eyes.
"See!" he said, after a moment,
"isn't that mist or something, over there to the right—away in a
line with that great piece of rock?" And he indicated with his
hand.
I stared, and, after a minute,
seemed to see something, but could not be certain, and said
so.
"Anyway," my friend replied,
"we'll just go across and have a glance." And he started off in the
direction he had suggested, I following. Presently, we came among
bushes, and, after a time, out upon the top of a high,
boulder-strewn bank, from which we looked down into a wilderness of
bushes and trees.
"Seems as though we had come upon
an oasis in this desert of stone," muttered Tonnison, as he gazed
interestedly. Then he was silent, his eyes fixed; and I looked
also; for up from somewhere about the center of the wooded lowland
there rose high into the quiet air a great column of hazelike
spray, upon which the sun shone, causing innumerable
rainbows.
"How beautiful!" I
exclaimed.
"Yes," answered Tonnison,
thoughtfully. "There must be a waterfall, or something, over there.
Perhaps it's our river come to light again. Let's go and
see."
Down the sloping bank we made our
way, and entered among the trees and shrubberies. The bushes were
matted, and the trees overhung us, so that the place was
disagreeably gloomy; though not dark enough to hide from me the
fact that many of the trees were fruit trees, and that, here and
there, one could trace indistinctly, signs of a long departed
cultivation. Thus it came to me that we were making our way through
the riot of a great and ancient garden. I said as much to Tonnison,
and he agreed that there certainly seemed reasonable grounds for my
belief.
What a wild place it was, so
dismal and somber! Somehow, as we went forward, a sense of the
silent loneliness and desertion of the old garden grew upon me, and
I felt shivery. One could imagine things lurking among the tangled
bushes; while, in the very air of the place, there seemed something
uncanny. I think Tonnison was conscious of this also, though he
said nothing.
Suddenly, we came to a halt.
Through the trees there had grown upon our ears a distant sound.
Tonnison bent forward, listening. I could hear it more plainly now;
it was continuous and harsh—a sort of droning roar, seeming to come
from far away. I experienced a queer, indescribable, little feeling
of nervousness. What sort of place was it into which we had got? I
looked at my companion, to see what he thought of the matter; and
noted that there was only puzzlement in his face; and then, as I
watched his features, an expression of comprehension crept over
them, and he nodded his head.
"That's a waterfall," he
exclaimed, with conviction. "I know the sound now." And he began to
push vigorously through the bushes, in the direction of the
noise.
As we went forward, the sound
became plainer continually, showing that we were heading straight
toward it. Steadily, the roaring grew louder and nearer, until it
appeared, as I remarked to Tonnison, almost to come from under our
feet—and still we were surrounded by the trees and shrubs.
"Take care!" Tonnison called to
me. "Look where you're going." And then, suddenly, we came out from
among the trees, on to a great open space, where, not six paces in
front of us, yawned the mouth of a tremendous chasm, from the
depths of which the noise appeared to rise, along with the
continuous, mistlike spray that we had witnessed from the top of
the distant bank.
For quite a minute we stood in
silence, staring in bewilderment at the sight; then my friend went
forward cautiously to the edge of the abyss. I followed, and,
together, we looked down through a boil of spray at a monster
cataract of frothing water that burst, spouting, from the side of
the chasm, nearly a hundred feet below.
"Good Lord!" said Tonnison.
I was silent, and rather awed.
The sight was so unexpectedly grand and eerie; though this latter
quality came more upon me later.
Presently, I looked up and across
to the further side of the chasm. There, I saw something towering
up among the spray: it looked like a fragment of a great ruin, and
I touched Tonnison on the shoulder. He glanced 'round, with a
start, and I pointed toward the thing. His gaze followed my finger,
and his eyes lighted up with a sudden flash of excitement, as the
object came within his field of view.
"Come along," he shouted above
the uproar. "We'll have a look at it. There's something queer about
this place; I feel it in my bones." And he started off, 'round the
edge of the craterlike abyss. As we neared this new thing, I saw
that I had not been mistaken in my first impression. It was
undoubtedly a portion of some ruined building; yet now I made out
that it was not built upon the edge of the chasm itself, as I had
at first supposed; but perched almost at the extreme end of a huge
spur of rock that jutted out some fifty or sixty feet over the
abyss. In fact, the jagged mass of ruin was literally suspended in
midair.
Arriving opposite it, we walked
out on to the projecting arm of rock, and I must confess to having
felt an intolerable sense of terror as I looked down from that
dizzy perch into the unknown depths below us—into the deeps from
which there rose ever the thunder of the falling water and the
shroud of rising spray.
Reaching the ruin, we clambered
'round it cautiously, and, on the further side, came upon a mass of
fallen stones and rubble. The ruin itself seemed to me, as I
proceeded now to examine it minutely, to be a portion of the outer
wall of some prodigious structure, it was so thick and
substantially built; yet what it was doing in such a position I
could by no means conjecture. Where was the rest of the house, or
castle, or whatever there had been?
I went back to the outer side of
the wall, and thence to the edge of the chasm, leaving Tonnison
rooting systematically among the heap of stones and rubbish on the
outer side. Then I commenced to examine the surface of the ground,
near the edge of the abyss, to see whether there were not left
other remnants of the building to which the fragment of ruin
evidently belonged. But though I scrutinized the earth with the
greatest care, I could see no signs of anything to show that there
had ever been a building erected on the spot, and I grew more
puzzled than ever.
Then, I heard a cry from
Tonnison; he was shouting my name, excitedly, and without delay I
hurried along the rocky promontory to the ruin. I wondered whether
he had hurt himself, and then the thought came, that perhaps he had
found something.
I reached the crumbled wall and
climbed 'round. There I found Tonnison standing within a small
excavation that he had made among the débris: he was brushing the
dirt from something that looked like a book, much crumpled and
dilapidated; and opening his mouth, every second or two, to bellow
my name. As soon as he saw that I had come, he handed his prize to
me, telling me to put it into my satchel so as to protect it from
the damp, while he continued his explorations. This I did, first,
however, running the pages through my fingers, and noting that they
were closely filled with neat, old-fashioned writing which was
quite legible, save in one portion, where many of the pages were
almost destroyed, being muddied and crumpled, as though the book
had been doubled back at that part. This, I found out from
Tonnison, was actually as he had discovered it, and the damage was
due, probably, to the fall of masonry upon the opened part.
Curiously enough, the book was fairly dry, which I attributed to
its having been so securely buried among the ruins.
Having put the volume away
safely, I turned-to and gave Tonnison a hand with his self-imposed
task of excavating; yet, though we put in over an hour's hard work,
turning over the whole of the upheaped stones and rubbish, we came
upon nothing more than some fragments of broken wood, that might
have been parts of a desk or table; and so we gave up searching,
and went back along the rock, once more to the safety of the
land.
The next thing we did was to make
a complete tour of the tremendous chasm, which we were able to
observe was in the form of an almost perfect circle, save for where
the ruin-crowned spur of rock jutted out, spoiling its
symmetry.
The abyss was, as Tonnison put
it, like nothing so much as a gigantic well or pit going sheer down
into the bowels of the earth.
For some time longer, we
continued to stare about us, and then, noticing that there was a
clear space away to the north of the chasm, we bent our steps in
that direction.
Here, distant from the mouth of
the mighty pit by some hundreds of yards, we came upon a great lake
of silent water—silent, that is, save in one place where there was
a continuous bubbling and gurgling.
Now, being away from the noise of
the spouting cataract, we were able to hear one another speak,
without having to shout at the tops of our voices, and I asked
Tonnison what he thought of the place—I told him that I didn't like
it, and that the sooner we were out of it the better I should be
pleased.
He nodded in reply, and glanced
at the woods behind furtively. I asked him if he had seen or heard
anything. He made no answer; but stood silent, as though listening,
and I kept quiet also.
Suddenly, he spoke.
"Hark!" he said, sharply. I
looked at him, and then away among the trees and bushes, holding my
breath involuntarily. A minute came and went in strained silence;
yet I could hear nothing, and I turned to Tonnison to say as much;
and then, even as I opened my lips to speak, there came a strange
wailing noise out of the wood on our left.... It appeared to float
through the trees, and there was a rustle of stirring leaves, and
then silence.
All at once, Tonnison spoke, and
put his hand on my shoulder. "Let us get out of here," he said, and
began to move slowly toward where the surrounding trees and bushes
seemed thinnest. As I followed him, it came to me suddenly that the
sun was low, and that there was a raw sense of chilliness in the
air.