Chapter I.
"And shippes by the brinke comen
and gon, And in swich forme endure a day or two." The Frankeleyn's
Tale.
Landfall and Departure mark the
rhythmical swing of a seaman's life and of a ship's career. From
land to land is the most concise definition of a ship's earthly
fate.
A "Departure" is not what a vain
people of landsmen may think. The term "Landfall" is more easily
understood; you fall in with the land, and it is a matter of a
quick eye and of a clear atmosphere. The Departure is not the
ship's going away from her port any more than the Landfall can be
looked upon as the synonym of arrival. But there is this difference
in the Departure: that the term does not imply so much a sea event
as a definite act entailing a process--the precise observation of
certain landmarks by means of the compass card.
Your Landfall, be it a
peculiarly-shaped mountain, a rocky headland, or a stretch of
sand-dunes, you meet at first with a single glance. Further
recognition will follow in due course; but essentially a Landfall,
good or bad, is made and done with at the first cry of "Land ho!"
The Departure is distinctly a ceremony of navigation. A ship may
have left her port some time before; she may have been at sea, in
the fullest sense of the phrase, for days; but, for all that, as
long as the coast she was about to leave remained in sight, a
southern-going ship of yesterday had not in the sailor's sense
begun the enterprise of a passage.
The taking of Departure, if not
the last sight of the land, is, perhaps, the last professional
recognition of the land on the part of a sailor. It is the
technical, as distinguished from the sentimental, "good-bye."
Henceforth he has done with the coast astern of his ship. It is a
matter personal to the man. It is not the ship that takes her
departure; the seaman takes his Departure by means of cross-
bearings which fix the place of the first tiny pencil-cross on the
white expanse of the track-chart, where the ship's position at noon
shall be marked by just such another tiny pencil cross for every
day of her passage. And there may be sixty, eighty, any number of
these crosses on the ship's track from land to land. The greatest
number in my experience was a hundred and thirty of such crosses
from the pilot station at the Sand Heads in the Bay of Bengal to
the Scilly's light. A bad passage. . .
A Departure, the last
professional sight of land, is always good, or at least good
enough. For, even if the weather be thick, it does not matter much
to a ship
having all the open sea before
her bows. A Landfall may be good or bad. You encompass the earth
with one particular spot of it in your eye. In all the devious
tracings the course of a sailing-ship leaves upon the white paper
of a chart she is always aiming for that one little spot--maybe a
small island in the ocean, a single headland upon the long coast of
a continent, a lighthouse on a bluff, or simply the peaked form of
a mountain like an ant-heap afloat upon the waters. But if you have
sighted it on the expected bearing, then that Landfall is good.
Fogs, snowstorms, gales thick with clouds and rain--those are the
enemies of good Landfalls.
Chapter II.
Some commanders of ships take
their Departure from the home coast sadly, in a spirit of grief and
discontent. They have a wife, children perhaps, some affection at
any rate, or perhaps only some pet vice, that must be left behind
for a year or more. I remember only one man who walked his deck
with a springy step, and gave the first course of the passage in an
elated voice. But he, as I learned afterwards, was leaving nothing
behind him, except a welter of debts and threats of legal
proceedings.
On the other hand, I have known
many captains who, directly their ship had left the narrow waters
of the Channel, would disappear from the sight of their ship's
company altogether for some three days or more. They would take a
long dive, as it were, into their state-room, only to emerge a few
days afterwards with a more or less serene brow. Those were the men
easy to get on with. Besides, such a complete retirement seemed to
imply a satisfactory amount of trust in their officers, and to be
trusted displeases no seaman worthy of the name.
On my first voyage as chief mate
with good Captain MacW- I remember that I felt quite flattered, and
went blithely about my duties, myself a commander for all practical
purposes. Still, whatever the greatness of my illusion, the fact
remained that the real commander was there, backing up my
self-confidence, though invisible to my eyes behind a maple-wood
veneered cabin-door with a white china handle.
That is the time, after your
Departure is taken, when the spirit of your commander communes with
you in a muffled voice, as if from the sanctum sanctorum of a
temple; because, call her a temple or a "hell afloat"--as some
ships have been called--the captain's state- room is surely the
august place in every vessel.
The good MacW- would not even
come out to his meals, and fed solitarily in his holy of holies
from a tray covered with a white napkin. Our steward used to bend
an ironic glance at the perfectly empty plates he was bringing out
from there.
This grief for his home, which
overcomes so many married seamen, did not deprive Captain MacW- of
his legitimate appetite. In fact, the steward would almost
invariably come up to me, sitting in the captain's chair at the
head of the table, to say in a grave murmur, "The captain asks for
one more slice of meat and two potatoes." We, his officers, could
hear him moving about in his berth, or lightly snoring, or fetching
deep sighs, or splashing and blowing in his bath-room;
and we made our reports to him
through the keyhole, as it were. It was the crowning achievement of
his amiable character that the answers we got were given in a quite
mild and friendly tone. Some commanders in their periods of
seclusion are constantly grumpy, and seem to resent the mere sound
of your voice as an injury and an insult.
But a grumpy recluse cannot worry
his subordinates: whereas the man in whom the sense of duty is
strong (or, perhaps, only the sense of self-importance), and who
persists in airing on deck his moroseness all day--and perhaps half
the night--becomes a grievous infliction. He walks the poop darting
gloomy glances, as though he wished to poison the sea, and snaps
your head off savagely whenever you happen to blunder within
earshot. And these vagaries are the harder to bear patiently, as
becomes a man and an officer, because no sailor is really
good-tempered during the first few days of a voyage. There are
regrets, memories, the instinctive longing for the departed
idleness, the instinctive hate of all work. Besides, things have a
knack of going wrong at the start, especially in the matter of
irritating trifles. And there is the abiding thought of a whole
year of more or less hard life before one, because there was hardly
a southern-going voyage in the yesterday of the sea which meant
anything less than a twelvemonth. Yes; it needed a few days after
the taking of your departure for a ship's company to shake down
into their places, and for the soothing deep-water ship routine to
establish its beneficent sway.
It is a great doctor for sore
hearts and sore heads, too, your ship's routine, which I have seen
soothe--at least for a time--the most turbulent of spirits. There
is health in it, and peace, and satisfaction of the accomplished
round; for each day of the ship's life seems to close a circle
within the wide ring of the sea horizon. It borrows a certain
dignity of sameness from the majestic monotony of the sea. He who
loves the sea loves also the ship's routine.
Nowhere else than upon the sea do
the days, weeks and months fall away quicker into the past. They
seem to be left astern as easily as the light air-bubbles in the
swirls of the ship's wake, and vanish into a great silence in which
your ship moves on with a sort of magical effect. They pass away,
the days, the weeks, the months. Nothing but a gale can disturb the
orderly life of the ship; and the spell of unshaken monotony that
seems to have fallen upon the very voices of her men is broken only
by the near prospect of a Landfall.
Then is the spirit of the ship's
commander stirred strongly again. But it is not moved to seek
seclusion, and to remain, hidden and inert, shut up in a small
cabin with the solace of a good bodily appetite. When about to make
the land, the spirit of the ship's commander is tormented by an
unconquerable restlessness. It seems unable to abide for many
seconds together in the holy of
holies of the captain's
state-room; it will out on deck and gaze ahead, through straining
eyes, as the appointed moment comes nearer. It is kept vigorously
upon the stretch of excessive vigilance. Meantime the body of the
ship's commander is being enfeebled by want of appetite; at least,
such is my experience, though "enfeebled" is perhaps not exactly
the word. I might say, rather, that it is spiritualized by a
disregard for food, sleep, and all the ordinary comforts, such as
they are, of sea life. In one or two cases I have known that
detachment from the grosser needs of existence remain regrettably
incomplete in the matter of drink.
But these two cases were,
properly speaking, pathological cases, and the only two in all my
sea experience. In one of these two instances of a craving for
stimulants, developed from sheer anxiety, I cannot assert that the
man's seaman- like qualities were impaired in the least. It was a
very anxious case, too, the land being made suddenly, close-to, on
a wrong bearing, in thick weather, and during a fresh onshore gale.
Going below to speak to him soon after, I was unlucky enough to
catch my captain in the very act of hasty cork-drawing. The sight,
I may say, gave me an awful scare. I was well aware of the morbidly
sensitive nature of the man. Fortunately, I managed to draw back
unseen, and, taking care to stamp heavily with my sea-boots at the
foot of the cabin stairs, I made my second entry. But for this
unexpected glimpse, no act of his during the next twenty-four hours
could have given me the slightest suspicion that all was not well
with his nerve.
Chapter III.
Quite another case, and having
nothing to do with drink, was that of poor Captain B-. He used to
suffer from sick headaches, in his young days, every time he was
approaching a coast. Well over fifty years of age when I knew him,
short, stout, dignified, perhaps a little pompous, he was a man of
a singularly well- informed mind, the least sailor-like in outward
aspect, but certainly one of the best seamen whom it has been my
good luck to serve under. He was a Plymouth man, I think, the son
of a country doctor, and both his elder boys were studying
medicine. He commanded a big London ship, fairly well known in her
day. I thought no end of him, and that is why I remember with a
peculiar satisfaction the last words he spoke to me on board his
ship after an eighteen months' voyage. It was in the dock in
Dundee, where we had brought a full cargo of jute from Calcutta. We
had been paid off that morning, and I had come on board to take my
sea-chest away and to say good-bye. In his slightly lofty but
courteous way he inquired what were my plans. I replied that I
intended leaving for London by the afternoon train, and thought of
going up for examination to get my master's certificate. I had just
enough service for that. He commended me for not wasting my time,
with such an evident interest in my case that I was quite
surprised; then, rising from his chair, he said:
"Have you a ship in view after
you have passed?" I answered that I had nothing whatever in
view.
He shook hands with me, and
pronounced the memorable words:
"If you happen to be in want of
employment, remember that as long as I have a ship you have a ship,
too."
In the way of compliment there is
nothing to beat this from a ship's captain to his second mate at
the end of a voyage, when the work is over and the subordinate is
done with. And there is a pathos in that memory, for the poor
fellow never went to sea again after all. He was already ailing
when we passed St. Helena; was laid up for a time when we were off
the Western Islands, but got out of bed to make his Landfall. He
managed to keep up on deck as far as the Downs, where, giving his
orders in an exhausted voice, he anchored for a few hours to send a
wire to his wife and take aboard a North Sea pilot to help him sail
the ship up the east coast. He had not felt equal to the task by
himself, for it is the sort of thing that keeps a deep-water man on
his feet pretty well night and day.
When we arrived in Dundee, Mrs.
B- was already there, waiting to take him home. We travelled up to
London by the same train; but by the time I had managed to get
through with my examination the ship had sailed on her next voyage
without him, and, instead of joining her again, I went by request
to see my old commander in his home. This is the only one of my
captains I have ever visited in that way. He was out of bed by
then, "quite convalescent," as he declared, making a few tottering
steps to meet me at the sitting- room door.
Evidently he was reluctant to
take his final cross- bearings of this earth for a Departure on the
only voyage to an unknown destination a sailor ever undertakes. And
it was all very nice--the large, sunny room; his deep, easy-chair
in a bow window, with pillows and a footstool; the quiet, watchful
care of the elderly, gentle woman who had borne him five children,
and had not, perhaps, lived with him more than five full years out
of the thirty or so of their married life. There was also another
woman there in a plain black dress, quite gray-haired, sitting very
erect on her chair with some sewing, from which she snatched side-
glances in his direction, and uttering not a single word during all
the time of my call. Even when, in due course, I carried over to
her a cup of tea, she only nodded at me silently, with the faintest
ghost of a smile on her tight-set lips. I imagine she must have
been a maiden sister of Mrs. B- come to help nurse her
brother-in-law. His youngest boy, a late-comer, a great cricketer
it seemed, twelve years old or thereabouts, chattered
enthusiastically of the exploits of W. G. Grace. And I remember his
eldest son, too, a newly-fledged doctor, who took me out to smoke
in the garden, and, shaking his head with professional gravity, but
with genuine concern, muttered: "Yes, but he doesn't get back his
appetite. I don't like that--I don't like that at all." The last
sight of Captain B- I had was as he nodded his head to me out of
the bow window when I turned round to close the front gate.
It was a distinct and complete
impression, something that I don't know whether to call a Landfall
or a Departure. Certainly he had gazed at times very fixedly before
him with the Landfall's vigilant look, this sea-captain seated
incongruously in a deep-backed chair. He had not then talked to me
of employment, of ships, of being ready to take another command;
but he had discoursed of his early days, in the abundant but thin
flow of a wilful invalid's talk. The women looked worried, but sat
still, and I learned more of him in that interview than in the
whole eighteen months we had sailed together. It appeared he had
"served his time" in the copper-ore trade, the famous copper-ore
trade of old days between Swansea and the Chilian coast, coal out
and ore in, deep-loaded both ways, as if in wanton defiance of the
great Cape Horn seas--a work, this, for staunch ships, and a great
school of staunchness for West- Country seamen. A whole fleet of
copper- bottomed barques, as strong in rib and planking, as
well-found in gear, as ever was sent upon the seas, manned by hardy
crews and commanded by young
masters, was engaged in that now
long defunct trade. "That was the school I was trained in," he said
to me almost boastfully, lying back amongst his pillows with a rug
over his legs. And it was in that trade that he obtained his first
command at a very early age. It was then that he mentioned to me
how, as a young commander, he was always ill for a few days before
making land after a long passage. But this sort of sickness used to
pass off with the first sight of a familiar landmark. Afterwards,
he added, as he grew older, all that nervousness wore off
completely; and I observed his weary eyes gaze steadily ahead, as
if there had been nothing between him and the straight line of sea
and sky, where whatever a seaman is looking for is first bound to
appear. But I have also seen his eyes rest fondly upon the faces in
the room, upon the pictures on the wall, upon all the familiar
objects of that home, whose abiding and clear image must have
flashed often on his memory in times of stress and anxiety at sea.
Was he looking out for a strange Landfall, or taking with an
untroubled mind the bearings for his last Departure?
It is hard to say; for in that
voyage from which no man returns Landfall and Departure are
instantaneous, merging together into one moment of supreme and
final attention. Certainly I do not remember observing any sign of
faltering in the set expression of his wasted face, no hint of the
nervous anxiety of a young commander about to make land on an
uncharted shore. He had had too much experience of Departures and
Landfalls! And had he not "served his time" in the famous
copper-ore trade out of the Bristol Channel, the work of the
staunchest ships afloat, and the school of staunch seamen?
Chapter IV.
Before an anchor can ever be
raised, it must be let go; and this perfectly obvious truism brings
me at once to the subject of the degradation of the sea language in
the daily press of this country.
Your journalist, whether he takes
charge of a ship or a fleet, almost invariably "casts" his anchor.
Now, an anchor is never cast, and to take a liberty with technical
language is a crime against the clearness, precision, and beauty of
perfected speech.
An anchor is a forged piece of
iron, admirably adapted to its end, and technical language is an
instrument wrought into perfection by ages of experience, a
flawless thing for its purpose. An anchor of yesterday (because
nowadays there are contrivances like mushrooms and things like
claws, of no particular expression or shape--just hooks)--an anchor
of yesterday is in its way a most efficient instrument. To its
perfection its size bears witness, for there is no other appliance
so small for the great work it has to do. Look at the anchors
hanging from the cat-heads of a big ship! How tiny they are in
proportion to the great size of the hull! Were they made of gold
they would look like trinkets, like ornamental toys, no bigger in
proportion than a jewelled drop in a woman's ear. And yet upon them
will depend, more than once, the very life of the ship.
An anchor is forged and fashioned
for faithfulness; give it ground that it can bite, and it will hold
till the cable parts, and then, whatever may afterwards befall its
ship, that anchor is "lost." The honest, rough piece of iron, so
simple in appearance, has more parts than the human body has limbs:
the ring, the stock, the crown, the flukes, the palms, the shank.
All this, according to the journalist, is "cast" when a ship
arriving at an anchorage is brought up.
This insistence in using the
odious word arises from the fact that a particularly benighted
landsman must imagine the act of anchoring as a process of throwing
something overboard, whereas the anchor ready for its work is
already overboard, and is not thrown over, but simply allowed to
fall. It hangs from the ship's side at the end of a heavy,
projecting timber called the cat-head, in the bight of a short,
thick chain whose end link is suddenly released by a blow from a
top-maul or the pull of a lever when the order is given. And the
order is not "Heave over!" as the paragraphist seems to imagine,
but "Let go!"
As a matter of fact, nothing is
ever cast in that sense on board ship but the lead,
of which a cast is taken to
search the depth of water on which she floats. A lashed boat, a
spare spar, a cask or what not secured about the decks, is "cast
adrift" when it is untied. Also the ship herself is "cast to port
or starboard" when getting under way. She, however, never "casts"
her anchor.
To speak with severe
technicality, a ship or a fleet is "brought up"--the complementary
words unpronounced and unwritten being, of course, "to an anchor."
Less technically, but not less correctly, the word "anchored," with
its characteristic appearance and resolute sound, ought to be good
enough for the newspapers of the greatest maritime country in the
world. "The fleet anchored at Spithead": can anyone want a better
sentence for brevity and seamanlike ring?
But the "cast-anchor" trick, with
its affectation of being a sea-phrase--for why not write just as
well "threw anchor," "flung anchor," or "shied anchor"?--is
intolerably odious to a sailor's ear. I remember a coasting pilot
of my early acquaintance (he used to read the papers assiduously)
who, to define the utmost degree of lubberliness in a landsman,
used to say, "He's one of them poor, miserable 'cast-anchor'
devils."
Chapter V.
From first to last the seaman's
thoughts are very much concerned with his anchors. It is not so
much that the anchor is a symbol of hope as that it is the heaviest
object that he has to handle on board his ship at sea in the usual
routine of his duties. The beginning and the end of every passage
are marked distinctly by work about the ship's anchors. A vessel in
the Channel has her anchors always ready, her cables shackled on,
and the land almost always in sight. The anchor and the land are
indissolubly connected in a sailor's thoughts. But directly she is
clear of the narrow seas, heading out into the world with nothing
solid to speak of between her and the South Pole, the anchors are
got in and the cables disappear from the deck. But the anchors do
not disappear.
Technically speaking, they are
"secured in-board"; and, on the forecastle head, lashed down to
ring-bolts with ropes and chains, under the straining sheets of the
head-sails, they look very idle and as if asleep. Thus bound, but
carefully looked after, inert and powerful, those emblems of hope
make company for the look-out man in the night watches; and so the
days glide by, with a long rest for those characteristically shaped
pieces of iron, reposing forward, visible from almost every part of
the ship's deck, waiting for their work on the other side of the
world somewhere, while the ship carries them on with a great rush
and splutter of foam underneath, and the sprays of the open sea
rust their heavy limbs.
The first approach to the land,
as yet invisible to the crew's eyes, is announced by the brisk
order of the chief mate to the boatswain: "We will get the anchors
over this afternoon" or "first thing to-morrow morning," as the
case may be. For the chief mate is the keeper of the ship's anchors
and the guardian of her cable.
There are good ships and bad
ships, comfortable ships and ships where, from first day to last of
the voyage, there is no rest for a chief mate's body and soul. And
ships are what men make them: this is a pronouncement of sailor
wisdom, and, no doubt, in the main it is true.
However, there are ships where,
as an old grizzled mate once told me, "nothing ever seems to go
right!" And, looking from the poop where we both stood (I had paid
him a neighbourly call in dock), he added: "She's one of them." He
glanced up at my face, which expressed a proper professional
sympathy, and set me right in my natural surmise: "Oh no; the old
man's right enough. He never interferes. Anything that's done in a
seamanlike way is good enough for him. And yet, somehow, nothing
ever seems to go right in this ship. I tell you what: she is
naturally unhandy."
The "old man," of course, was his
captain, who just then came on deck in a silk hat and brown
overcoat, and, with a civil nod to us, went ashore. He was
certainly not more than thirty, and the elderly mate, with a murmur
to me of "That's my old man," proceeded to give instances of the
natural unhandiness of the ship in a sort of deprecatory tone, as
if to say, "You mustn't think I bear a grudge against her for
that."
The instances do not matter. The
point is that there are ships where things DO go wrong; but
whatever the ship--good or bad, lucky or unlucky--it is in the
forepart of her that her chief mate feels most at home. It is
emphatically HIS end of the ship, though, of course, he is the
executive supervisor of the whole. There are HIS anchors, HIS
headgear, his foremast, his station for manoeuvring when the
captain is in charge. And there, too, live the men, the ship's
hands, whom it is his duty to keep employed, fair weather or foul,
for the ship's welfare. It is the chief mate, the only figure of
the ship's afterguard, who comes bustling forward at the cry of
"All hands on deck!" He is the satrap of that province in the
autocratic realm of the ship, and more personally responsible for
anything that may happen there.
There, too, on the approach to
the land, assisted by the boatswain and the carpenter, he "gets the
anchors over" with the men of his own watch, whom he knows better
than the others. There he sees the cable ranged, the windlass
disconnected, the compressors opened; and there, after giving his
own last order, "Stand clear of the cable!" he waits attentive, in
a silent ship that forges slowly ahead towards her picked-out
berth, for the sharp shout from aft, "Let go!" Instantly bending
over, he sees the trusty iron fall with a heavy plunge under his
eyes, which watch and note whether it has gone clear.
For the anchor "to go clear"
means to go clear of its own chain. Your anchor must drop from the
bow of your ship with no turn of cable on any of its limbs, else
you would be riding to a foul anchor. Unless the pull of the cable
is fair on the ring, no anchor can be trusted even on the best of
holding ground. In time of stress it is bound to drag, for
implements and men must be treated fairly to give you the "virtue"
which is in them. The anchor is an emblem of hope, but a foul
anchor is worse than the most fallacious of false hopes that ever
lured men or nations into a sense of security. And the sense of
security, even the most warranted, is a bad councillor. It is the
sense which, like that exaggerated feeling of well-being ominous of
the coming on of madness, precedes the swift fall of disaster. A
seaman labouring under an undue sense of security becomes at once
worth hardly half his salt. Therefore, of all my chief officers,
the one I trusted most was a man called B-. He had a red moustache,
a lean face, also red, and an uneasy eye. He was worth all his
salt.
On examining now, after many
years, the residue of the feeling which was the outcome of the
contact of our personalities, I discover, without much surprise, a
certain flavour of dislike. Upon the whole, I think he was one of
the most uncomfortable shipmates possible for a young commander. If
it is permissible to criticise the absent, I should say he had a
little too much of the sense of insecurity which is so invaluable
in a seaman. He had an extremely disturbing air of being
everlastingly ready (even when seated at table at my right hand
before a plate of salt beef) to grapple with some impending
calamity. I must hasten to add that he had also the other
qualification necessary to make a trustworthy seaman--that of an
absolute confidence in himself. What was really wrong with him was
that he had these qualities in an unrestful degree. His eternally
watchful demeanour, his jerky, nervous talk, even his, as it were,
determined silences, seemed to imply--and, I believe, they did
imply--that to his mind the ship was never safe in my hands. Such
was the man who looked after the anchors of a less than
five-hundred-ton barque, my first command, now gone from the face
of the earth, but sure of a tenderly remembered existence as long
as I live. No anchor could have gone down foul under Mr. B-'s
piercing eye. It was good for one to be sure of that when, in an
open roadstead, one heard in the cabin the wind pipe up; but still,
there were moments when I detested Mr. B- exceedingly. From the way
he used to glare sometimes, I fancy that more than once he paid me
back with interest. It so happened that we both loved the little
barque very much. And it was just the defect of Mr. B-'s
inestimable qualities that he would never persuade himself to
believe that the ship was safe in my hands. To begin with, he was
more than five years older than myself at a time of life when five
years really do count, I being twenty-nine and he thirty-four;
then, on our first leaving port (I don't see why I should make a
secret of the fact that it was Bangkok), a bit of manoeuvring of
mine amongst the islands of the Gulf of Siam had given him an
unforgettable scare. Ever since then he had nursed in secret a
bitter idea of my utter recklessness. But upon the whole, and
unless the grip of a man's hand at parting means nothing whatever,
I conclude that we did like each other at the end of two years and
three months well enough.