Afternoon Tea At Home E-Book

Will Torrent

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Beschreibung

80 stunning recipes and inspiration for how to host and bake for the ultimate afternoon tea party with instruction from master patissier Will Torrent. Arranged by season, and with extra chapters on a Classic afternoon tea and a Showstopper afternoon tea, Will showcases his no-nonsense approach to the techniques involved in patisserie, baking, chocolate work and serving savoury dishes. Beautifully illustrated and an invaluable source of inspiration, there are also six guest recipes from top restaurants and hotels: The Ritz; The Dorchester; The Gramercy Tavern; The Berkeley; Harrods and Raymond Blanc's Les Manoir aux Quat'Saisons. Starting with a brief history of British afternoon tea, Will then offers up recipes for jams, spreads, butters and curds – everything you might need to serve with an afternoon tea. Recipes include Smoked Salmon & Whipped Cream Cheese sandwiches, Cherry & Almond Bakewell Tarts and Fruited Scones; as well as more adventurous offerings of Prosecco, Lime & Mint Jellies and Lemon & Lime Matcha Tea Friands.

Leseprobe

AFTERNOON TEA AT HOME

WILL TORRENTAFTERNOON TEA AT HOME

Deliciously indulgent recipes for sandwiches, savouries, scones, cakes and other fancies

photography by Matt Russell

For my wonderful wife.

Colossians 3: 12–17 x

Senior Designer Megan Smith

Commissioning Editor Stephanie Milner

Head of Production Patricia Harrington

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Publisher Cindy Richards

Recipe Writer and Developer Annie Rigg

Food Stylist Will Torrent

Prop Stylist Joanna Harris

Assistant Food Stylists Jack Sargeson and Kathy Kordalis

Indexer Hilary Bird

First published in 2016.

This edition published in 2021

by Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields,

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 E 116th St

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

Text © Will Torrent 2016, 2021

Design and commissioned photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2016, 2021

Picture credits

Page 8 above left © Bettmann/CORBIS;

Page 8 above right Topfoto;

Page 8 below Roger-Viollet/Topfoto

ISBN: 978-1-78879-348-3

EISBN: 978-1-78879-371-1

Printed and bound in China

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library. US Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data has been applied for.

NOTES

• Both British (Metric) and American (Imperial plus US cups) measurements and ingredients are included in these recipes for your convenience, however it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• All eggs are medium (UK) or large (US), unless specified as large, in which case US extra-large should be used. Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.

• When a recipe calls for the zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Contents

Introduction

Time for tea

Afternoon tea essentials

Classic afternoon tea

Spring selection

Summer sensation

Fall delights

Winter celebration

Something special

Menu planners

Resources

Index

Acknowledgments

Introduction

Afternoon tea is one of my favourite ways to eat. It’s quintessentially British, has natural pomp and circumstance, oozes elegance and is defined by indulgence. It’s been around since the 1800s but it is in the last few years that afternoon tea has had a resurgence. In grand venues such as 5-star hotels, riverside restaurants or boutique department stores, it can be a way to celebrate birthdays and engagements, get together with friends or even serve as a wedding breakfast – people just seem to love afternoon tea.

It is the delicate touches of small finger sandwiches (rectangular or triangular but always with the crusts cut off), little savouries, light and fluffy scones with clotted cream and jam/jelly, fine and elegant pâtisserie, a wide variety of teas and the occasional glass of fizz that people adore. But it’s not just the food: the ornate and stunning locations that host afternoon tea are a luxury that can be recreated at home with an eye on the details – you might even feel like you’re in Downton Abbey. I love the feeling of tranquillity and peace that contradicts the buzz of being served afternoon tea – nothing quite beats it.

There are two questions that need to be answered though; how do you pronounce ‘scone’ and should you layer cream on first or jam/jelly? Well, when it comes to the toppings, I’ll explain that later on (there are lots of ways to serve a scone), but when it comes to how to pronounce the word ‘scone’, I do love this little poem that gives you a hint;

I asked the maid in dulcet tone

To order me a buttered scone;

The silly girl has been and gone

And ordered me a buttered scone. (Anon.)

Will Torrent

Time for tea

Afternoon tea has been around since the 1800s and was traditionally served between the hours of 4 pm and 7 pm, however these days, most establishments prefer to serve afternoon tea from lunchtime onwards, and continue until it’s time to begin their evening dinner service.

With the rise in popularity of tea drinking in the 19th century, it is said that Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford and other ladies of the upper social classes would get a little peckish ahead of dinner. The solution was to have a cup of tea and a light snack mid-afternoon to keep the hunger pangs at bay. This soon became part of a daily routine and the Duchess began to invite friends to the house to join her for refreshment, and the rest, as they say, is history. However, it was thanks to Queen Victoria that afternoon tea came to be the more formal affair we enjoy today. During her reign, tea service became increasingly grand and enjoying the ritual in the country’s celebrated dining rooms held social status. Etiquette played a big part, from the dress code to the way that tea was poured and stirred.

Today there are no strict rules when serving an afternoon tea, but traditionally it will consist of an ornate 3-tiered cake stand displaying a selection of dainty finger sandwiches and other small savouries, warm scones with accompanying pots of clotted cream and preserves, and a variety of visually appealing bite-size cakes and pastries. This enticing spread will be accompanied by your choice of a pot of freshly brewed loose-leaf tea, usually Earl Grey, Darjeeling and Assam are offered. Throughout this book you’ll find both traditional recipes and my own ideas for teatime fancies, designed to be enjoyed throughout the seasons. Why not use the Menu Planners on pages 168–171 to put together your own bespoke selection of treats for any occasion?

Henry James (1843–1916), the great American writer who spent most of his writing life in England said: ‘There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea.’

I certainly agree.

Clockwise from top left: An interior view of the famed The Ritz London hotel corridor where people are having afternoon tea; the Brown Derby Tea Room in Edinburgh, Scotland, overlooking Princes Street and Castle Rock (c. 1950); ladies drinking some tea in the garden of The Ritz Paris, 1st arrondissement (1930).

Afternoon tea essentials

Jams and jellies

STRAWBERRY AND CHAMPAGNE

A traditional afternoon tea requires basic condiments to be served alongside the delicate plates of food. These can of course be bought – there are many good-quality jams/jellies, curds, spreads and butters available in stores – but if you really want to go all out, try one of the recipes from these pages. Jam sugar has added pectin which helps to set the mixture.

750 g/7½ cups strawberries

500 g/2½ cups jam sugar

200 ml/¾ cup Champagne

juice of 1 lemon

BLACKCURRANT AND CASSIS

750 g/7½ cups blackcurrants

500 g/2½ cups jam sugar

100 ml/⅓ cup water

100 ml/⅓ cup cassis

CHERRY AND KIRSCH

750 g/7½ cups fresh pitted/stoned cherries

500 g/2½ cups jam sugar

100 ml/⅓ cup water

100 ml/⅓ cup Kirsch

APRICOT AND VANILLA

750 g/7½ cups fresh pitted/stoned apricots

500 g/2½ cups jam sugar

200 ml/¾ cup orange juice

juice of 1 lemon

1 vanilla pod/bean, seeds scraped out

a sugar thermometer

a chilled plate or saucer

Each makes about 750 g/1¾ lbs.

For each of the jams/jellies, put all the ingredients into a large pan set over a medium heat and cook to 112°C (234°F) on a sugar thermometer. This is the ‘setting’ stage.

To test for a set, drop ½ teaspoon of the mixture onto a chilled plate, leave it for 30 seconds, then gently push it with your fingertip. If it wrinkles then it is ready, if not, continue to cook the jam/jelly for another 2 minutes and test again.

Remove the pan from the heat and set aside for 2–3 minutes before pouring into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the jams/jellies outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 6 months. Refrigerate once open and consume within 4 weeks.

The Dorchester Lemon curd

4 g/2 sheets leaf gelatin

300 ml/1¼ cup lemon juice

5 eggs, beaten

160 ml/⅔ cup clear honey

150 g/1 stick plus 2 tablespoons butter

a sugar thermometer

Makes about 350 g/¾ lb.

To make the lemon curd, soak the gelatin in cold water for 10 minutes.

Put the lemon juice in a pan over a medium heat and warm through. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the beaten eggs and honey together, then pour into the pan with the lemon juice. Bring to the boil, stirring all the time. Cook for 1 minute then remove from the heat.

Drain the gelatin and squeeze off any excess water before adding to the pan. Bring to the boil, then cool down to about 40°C (104°F) when tested using a sugar thermometer. Add the butter and stir until completely melted. For best results blend to create an emulsion.

Passionfruit curd

100 g/½ cup caster/granulated sugar

75 g/5 tablespoons butter

a pinch of salt

pulp and seeds of 8 passionfruits

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2 egg yolks

Makes about 350 g/¾ lb.

Put the sugar, butter and salt into a heatproof bowl suspended over a pan of simmering water. Do not allow the underside of the bowl to come into contact with the water. When the butter has melted and the sugar is dissolved, add the passionfruit, beaten eggs and yolks. Continue to cook over a low heat stirring almost constantly until the curd is silky smooth, hot to the touch and has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon.

Remove from the heat and pass though a fine mesh sieve/strainer into a clean bowl. Cover the surface of the curd with clingfilm/plastic wrap to prevent a skin forming and leave to cool for 10 minutes.

Use immediately or pour the curd into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the jams/jellies outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 2 months. Refrigerate once open and consume within 3 weeks.

Lime and yuzu curd

2 tablespoons yuzu juice (available online or in good Japanese supermarkets)

zest and juice of 2 limes

3 egg yolks

100 g/½ cup golden caster/raw cane sugar

2 tablespoons butter, chilled and diced

Makes about 350 g/¾ lb.

Put the yuzu juice with the lime zest and juice in a pan set over a low heat and slowly bring to the boil.

Put the egg yolks and sugar in a large mixing bowl and whisk with a balloon whisk until it looks like the sugar has dissolved. Very slowly pour the boiled citrus juice into the mixing bowl, whisking constantly.

Pour the mixture back into the pan, set over medium heat and stir. It will start to thicken and resemble thick, glossy curd. Remove it from the heat and whisk in the butter, one piece at a time. Mix until all the butter has melted.

Use immediately or pour the curd into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the jams/jellies outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 2 months. Refrigerate once open and consume within 3 weeks.

Rhubarb jam

1 kg/2 lbs. 3 oz. pink rhubarb, trimmed into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces (trimmed weight)

1 kg/5 cups jam sugar

zest and juice of 1 lemon

a sugar thermometer

a chilled plate or saucer

Makes about 1 kg/2¼ lbs.

Tip the trimmed rhubarb into a large mixing bowl and add the sugar, lemon zest and juice and stir well to combine.

Cover the bowl with clingfilm/plastic wrap and leave for at least 2 hours but preferably overnight to allow the sugar to dissolve into the rhubarb juices. Stir the mixture a couple of times to speed the process along.

Scoop the fruit and all of the sugary juices into a pan and set over a medium heat. Stir to dissolve any remaining sugar and bring to the boil. Continue to cook at a fairly swift pace for 10–15 minutes until the rhubarb is really tender and the mixture has reached setting point – 112°C (234°F) – on a sugar thermometer.

To test for a set, drop ½ teaspoon of the mixture onto a chilled plate, leave it for 30 seconds, then gently push it with your fingertip. If it wrinkles then it is ready, if not, continue to cook the jam/jelly for another 2 minutes and test again.

Remove the pan from the heat and set aside for 2–3 minutes before pouring into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the jam/jelly outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 6 months. Refrigerate once open and consume within 4 weeks.

Cherry compote

175 ml/scant ¾ cup red wine

juice of 1 orange plus 2 strips of peel

1 bay leaf

1 cinnamon stick

½ vanilla pod/bean, split

1 star anise

30 g/2½ tablespoons caster/granulated sugar

2 teaspoons cornflour/cornstarch

2 teaspoons Kirsch or cherry brandy

a 400-g/14-oz. can dark cherries in syrup, drained and patted dry

Makes 500 g/1¼ lbs.

Tip the red wine into a small pan, add the orange juice and orange peel, the bay leaf, cinnamon stick, vanilla pod/bean, star anise and sugar. Set over a medium heat stirring to dissolve the sugar. Bring to the boil and simmer gently until reduced to 3 tablespoons of thick syrup. Pass the mixture through a fine mesh sieve/strainer into a clean bowl to remove the spices and peel, then return the syrup to the pan.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour/cornstarch with the Kirsch or cherry brandy and mix to a smooth paste. Spoon the paste into the red wine syrup and whisk to combine. Cook over a low–medium heat until thickened and glossy and you can no longer taste the cornflour/cornstarch. Add the cherries and cook for a further minute to break down the fruit slightly.

Remove the pan from the heat and cool completely before using. Store the compote in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Chocolate and espresso‘curd’

125 g/1 stick plus ¾ tablespoon butter, chilled and diced

50 ml/scant ¼ cup espresso

70 g/½ cup chopped dark/bittersweet chocolate (80%)

4 egg yolks

100 g/½ cup white sugar

Makes about 350 g/¾ lb.

Put the butter into a large mixing bowl, followed by the espresso and chopped chocolate. Suspend the bowl over a pan of simmering water and whisk the ingredients together. Add the egg yolks and sugar and stir continuously over the heat to combine. When the curd starts to leave a trail from the whisk this means it’s starting to cook through – you’ll find the edges cook first so run your whisk around the inside of the bowl to make sure it does not get too hot too quickly.

Pour a spoonful of the curd onto a plate and pop it into the fridge for a few minutes. When cool, run your finger through the middle of the curd and if it stays separate then it is cooked.

Use immediately or pour the curd into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the curd outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 1 week. Refrigerate once open and consume within 3 days.

Chocolate and hazelnut spread

50 g/½ cup hazelnut paste

50 g/⅓ cup finely chopped milk/semi-sweet chocolate

50 g/⅓ cup finely chopped dark/bittersweet chocolate

100 ml/6 tablespoons double/heavy cream

30 ml/2 tablespoons hazelnut oil

Makes about 250 g/9 oz.

Put the cream and oil in a pan and set over a medium heat to warm through. Add all the chocolate. Stir to melt the chocolate and combine.

Blitz with a handheld electric blender before transferring to a sterilized glass jar.

Use immediately or pour the spread into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the spread outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 1 week. Refrigerate once open and consume within 3 days.

VARIATION

Chocolate and pistachios also work incredibly well together and you can simply replace the hazelnut paste with pistachio purée/paste and use groundnut oil instead of the hazelnut oil.

Smoked salmon sandwiches

with whipped cream cheese

Roast beef sandwiches

Devilled egg mayonnaise

sandwiches with micro herbs

Cucumber sandwiches

with yuzu and chive butter

Classic scones

The Ritz London Fruited scones

Viennese whirls

Simple vanilla shortbreads

Cherry and almond Bakewell tarts

Chocolate and peanut butter délices

Victoria sponge with strawberry

jam and vanilla buttercream

Classic afternoon tea

Smoked salmon sandwiches with whipped cream cheese

Smoked salmon and cream cheese is one of those match-made-in-heaven combinations and by whipping the cream cheese a bit, the sandwich becomes delightfully light. The ultimate roast beef sandwich has to be made with thinly sliced, roast beef. With a horseradish and onion confit mayonnaise and crisp watercress it’s a proper British sandwich.

150 g/1 stick plus 2 tablespoons butter, softened

1 teaspoon lemon zest and 2 teaspoons juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

300 g/10 oz. cream cheese

8 thin slices brown bread

400 g/14 oz. thinly sliced smoked salmon

Makes 24

Beat the butter until really soft and spreadable, add the lemon zest and juice, season with salt and black pepper and mix in.

In another bowl beat the cream cheese with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula until really light, season with black pepper and mix well.

Lay the bread out on the work surface and spread with a thin layer of the lemon butter. Spread half of the slices with the whipped cream cheese and lay the smoked salmon on the remaining buttered slices of bread.

Sandwich the two together and using a serrated knife trim off the crusts.

Cut each sandwich into dainty bite-sized rectangles or triangles to serve.

Roast beef sandwiches

1 onion

2 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1–2 teaspoons creamed horseradish

4 tablespoons mayonnaise

10 slices white bread

75 g/5 tablespoons salted butter, softened

15 thin slices roast beef

fresh watercress

Makes 24

Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F) Gas 5.

Lay a sheet of foil in a roasting pan and put the whole onion and garlic cloves on top, drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and black pepper and wrap up tightly. Cook on the middle shelf of the preheated oven for about 40 minutes until caramelized.

Leave to cool slightly, then scoop the onion and garlic flesh from the skins into a food processor. Pulse until roughly chopped and leave to cool to room temperature.

Combine the mayonnaise and horseradish in a small bowl, add the onion and garlic mixture and stir until combined. Lay the bread out on the work surface and spread half of them with butter. Spread the remaining bread slices with the onion mayonnaise. You may have more mayonnaise than needed but you can keep it in the fridge for 1–2 days.

Lay the beef over the mayonnaise, top with watercress, then with the buttered bread, butter-side down and press the slices gently together. Trim off the crusts and cut the sandwiches into triangles or rectangles.

Devilled egg mayonnaise sandwiches with micro herbs

Give the humble egg mayo sandwich a new lease of life by adding spices, Dijon mustard and a little mango chutney in a nod to the retro devilled egg. Or dress thinly sliced cucumber in cider vinegar – it lightly pickles it and gives the sandwich a little lift, which works really well with the citrus butter.

4 eggs

a pinch of salt

2–3 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon mango chutney

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper or paprika

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

50 g/3½ tablespoons salted butter, softened

8 slices white bread

fresh watercress

Makes 16

Carefully arrange the eggs in a saucepan in which they will fit snuggly. Add the salt and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 6 minutes. Drain and run cold water over the eggs for at least 3 minutes until they are completely cold.

Peel the eggs, finely chop and tip into a bowl. Add the mayonnaise, mango chutney, mustard, cayenne pepper or paprika and season with salt and black pepper. Mix well.

Lay the bread out on the work surface and spread with butter. Divide the egg mixture between half of the slices, spreading it evenly and scatter with watercress. Top with the other buttered slices, butter-side down and gently press together.

Using a serrated knife trim off the crusts. Cut each sandwich into dainty bite-sized triangles or rectangles to serve.

Cucumber sandwiches with yuzu and chive butter

100 g/7 tablespoons butter, softened

2 teaspoons yuzu or lemon juice

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

½ large cucumber

2 teaspoons cider vinegar

8 slices white bread

Makes 24

Beat the butter until really soft and spreadable. Gradually add the yuzu or lemon juice, mix in and season with salt and black pepper. Add the chives and mix to combine.

Peel the cucumber and thinly slice into rounds. Tip the slices into a bowl, add the cider vinegar and toss to coat.

Lay half of the bread slices out on the work surface and spread with half of the yuzu and chive butter.

Arrange the cucumber slices on top as neatly and evenly as possible and season with salt and pepper. Spread the remaining bread with the yuzu and chive butter and press on top of the cucumber-topped bread, butter-side down.

Gently press the sandwiches together and trim off the crusts using a serrated knife.

Cut the sandwiches into neat rectangles or triangles to serve.

Classic scones

You can’t have afternoon tea without scones, and they have to be served with clotted cream and jam/jelly, and, for me, it has to be homemade and strawberry-flavoured! Now, depending on where you come from in the South West of England, that will decide whether to have spread the jam/jelly or cream on first? In Devon, it’s cream first and in Cornwall it’s the other way round. As long as it comes with both, either way round is good for me!

450 g/3½ cups plain/all-purpose flour

3 teaspoons baking powder

a pinch of salt