From the Caves and Jungles of Hindostan by H. P. Blavatsky
From the Caves and Jungles of Hindostan by H. P. BlavatskyIn BombayOn The Way To KarliIn The Karli CavesVanished GloriesA City Of The DeadBrahmanic HospitalitiesA Witch's DenGod's WarriorThe Banns Of MarriageThe Caves Of BaghAn Isle of MysteryJubbleporeCopyright
From the Caves and Jungles of Hindostan by H. P. Blavatsky
H. P. Blavatsky
In Bombay
Late in the evening of the sixteenth of February, 1879, after a
rough voyage which lasted thirty-two days, joyful exclamations were
heard everywhere on deck. "Have you seen the lighthouse?" "There it
is at last, the Bombay lighthouse."
Cards, books, music, everything was forgotten. Everyone rushed on
deck. The moon had not risen as yet, and, in spite of the starry
tropical sky, it was quite dark. The stars were so bright that, at
first, it seemed hardly possible to distinguish, far away amongst
them, a small fiery point lit by earthly hands. The stars winked at
us like so many huge eyes in the black sky, on one side of which
shone the Southern Cross. At last we distinguished the lighthouse
on the distant horizon. It was nothing but a tiny fiery point
diving in the phosphorescent waves. The tired travellers greeted it
warmly. The rejoicing was general.
What a glorious daybreak followed this dark night! The sea no
longer tossed our ship. Under the skilled guidance of the pilot,
who had just arrived, and whose bronze form was so sharply defined
against the pale sky, our steamer, breathing heavily with its
broken machinery, slipped over the quiet, transparent waters of the
Indian Ocean straight to the harbour. We were only four miles from
Bombay, and, to us, who had trembled with cold only a few weeks ago
in the Bay of Biscay, which has been so glorified by many poets and
so heartily cursed by all sailors, our surroundings simply seemed a
magical dream.
After the tropical nights of the Red Sea and the scorching hot days
that had tortured us since Aden, we, people of the distant North,
now experienced something strange and unwonted, as if the very
fresh soft air had cast its spell over us. There was not a cloud in
the sky, thickly strewn with dying stars. Even the moonlight, which
till then had covered the sky with its silvery garb, was gradually
vanishing; and the brighter grew the rosiness of dawn over the
small island that lay before us in the East, the paler in the West
grew the scattered rays of the moon that sprinkled with bright
flakes of light the dark wake our ship left behind her, as if the
glory of the West was bidding good-bye to us, while the light of
the East welcomed the newcomers from far-off lands. Brighter and
bluer grew the sky, swiftly absorbing the remaining pale stars one
after the other, and we felt something touching in the sweet
dignity with which the Queen of Night resigned her rights to the
powerful usurper. At last, descending lower and lower, she
disappeared completely.
And suddenly, almost without interval between darkness and light,
the red-hot globe, emerging on the opposite side from under the
cape, leant his golden chin on the lower rocks of the island and
seemed to stop for a while, as if examining us. Then, with one
powerful effort, the torch of day rose high over the sea and
gloriously proceeded on its path, including in one mighty fiery
embrace the blue waters of the bay, the shore and the islands with
their rocks and cocoanut forests. His golden rays fell upon a crowd
of Parsees, his rightful worshippers, who stood on shore raising
their arms towards the mighty "Eye of Ormuzd." The sight was so
impressive that everyone on deck became silent for a moment, even a
red-nosed old sailor, who was busy quite close to us over the
cable, stopped working, and, clearing his throat, nodded at the
sun.
Moving slowly and cautiously along the charming but treacherous
bay, we had plenty of time to admire the picture around us. On the
right was a group of islands with Gharipuri or Elephanta, with its
ancient temple, at their head. Gharipuri translated means "the town
of caves" according to the Orientalists, and "the town of
purification" according to the native Sanskrit scholars. This
temple, cut out by an unknown hand in the very heart of a rock
resembling porphyry, is a true apple of discord amongst the
archaeologists, of whom none can as yet fix, even approximately,
its antiquity. Elephanta raises high its rocky brow, all overgrown
with secular cactus, and right under it, at the foot of the rock,
are hollowed out the chief temple and the two lateral ones. Like
the serpent of our Russian fairy tales, it seems to be opening its
fierce black mouth to swallow the daring mortal who comes to take
possession of the secret mystery of Titan. Its two remaining teeth,
dark with time, are formed by two huge pillars t the entrance,
sustaining the palate of the monster.
How many generations of Hindus, how many races, have knelt in the
dust before the Trimurti, your threefold deity, O Elephanta? How
many centuries were spent by weak man in digging out in your stone
bosom this town of temples and carving your gigantic idols? Who can
say? Many years have elapsed since I saw you last, ancient,
mysterious temple, and still the same restless thoughts, the same
recurrent questions vex me snow as they did then, and still remain
unanswered. In a few days we shall see each other again. Once more
I shall gaze upon your stern image, upon your three huge granite
faces, and shall feel as hopeless as ever of piercing the mystery
of your being. This secret fell into safe hands three centuries
before ours. It is not in vain that the old Portuguese historian
Don Diego de Cuta boasts that "the big square stone fastened over
the arch of the pagoda with a distinct inscription, having been
torn out and sent as a present to the King Dom Juan III,
disappeared mysteriously in the course of time....," and adds,
further, "Close to this big pagoda there stood another, and farther
on even a third one, the most wonderful of all in beauty,
incredible size, and richness of material. All those pagodas and
caves have been built by the Kings of Kanada, (?) the most
important of whom was Bonazur, and these buildings of Satan our
(Portuguese) soldiers attacked with such vehemence that in a few
years one stone was not left upon another...." And, worst of all,
they left no inscriptions that might have given a clue to so much.
Thanks to the fanaticism of Portuguese soldiers, the chronology of
the Indian cave temples must remain for ever an enigma to the
archaeological world, beginning with the Brah-mans, who say
Elephanta is 374,000 years old, and ending with Fergusson, who
tries to prove that it was carved only in the twelfth century of
our era. Whenever one turns one's eyes to history, there is nothing
to be found but hypotheses and darkness. And yet Gharipuri is
mentioned in the epic Mahabharata, which was written, according to
Colebrooke and Wilson, a good while before the reign of Cyrus. In
another ancient legend it is said that the temple of Trimurti was
built on Elephanta by the sons of Pandu, who took part in the war
between the dynasties of the Sun and the Moon, and, belonging to
the latter, were expelled at the end of the war. The Rajputs, who
are the descendants of the first, still sing of this victory; but
even in their popular songs there is nothing positive. Centuries
have passed and will pass, and the ancient secret will die in the
rocky bosom of the cave still unrecorded.
On the left side of the bay, exactly opposite Elephanta, and as if
in contrast with all its antiquity and greatness, spreads the
Malabar Hill, the residence of the modern Europeans and rich
natives. Their brightly painted bungalows are bathed in the
greenery of banyan, Indian fig, and various other trees, and the
tall and straight trunks of cocoanut palms cover with the fringe of
their leaves the whole ridge of the hilly headland. There, on the
south-western end of the rock, you see the almost transparent,
lace-like Government House surrounded on three sides by the ocean.
This is the coolest and the most comfortable part of Bombay, fanned
by three different sea breezes.
The island of Bombay, designated by the natives "Mambai," received
its name from the goddess Mamba, in Mahrati Mahima, or Amba, Mama,
and Amma, according to the dialect, a word meaning, literally, the
Great Mother. Hardly one hundred years ago, on the site of the
modern esplanade, there stood a temple consecrated to Mamba-Devi.
With great difficulty and expense they carried it nearer to the
shore, close to the fort, and erected it in front of Baleshwara the
"Lord of the Innocent"—one of the names of the god Shiva. Bombay is
part of a considerable group of islands, the most remarkable of
which are Salsetta, joined to Bombay by a mole, Elephanta, so named
by the Portuguese because of a huge rock cut in the shape of an
elephant thirty-five feet long, and Trombay, whose lovely rock
rises nine hundred feet above the surface of the sea. Bombay looks,
on the maps, like an enormous crayfish, and is at the head of the
rest of the islands. Spreading far out into the sea its two claws,
Bombay island stands like a sleepless guardian watching over his
younger brothers. Between it and the Continent there is a narrow
arm of a river, which gets gradually broader and then again
narrower, deeply indenting the sides of both shores, and so forming
a haven that has no equal in the world. It was not without reason
that the Portuguese, expelled in the course of time by the English,
used to call it "Buona Bahia."
In a fit of tourist exaltation some travellers have compared it to
the Bay of Naples; but, as a matter of fact, the one is as much
like the other as a lazzaroni is like a Kuli. The whole resemblance
between the former consists in the fact that there is water in
both. In Bombay, as well as in its harbour, everything is original
and does not in the least remind one of Southern Europe. Look at
those coasting vessels and native boats; both are built in the
likeness of the sea bird "sat," a kind of kingfisher. When in
motion these boats are the personi-fication of grace, with their
long prows and rounded poops. They look as if they were gliding
backwards, and one might mistake for wings the strangely shaped,
long lateen sails, their narrow angles fastened upwards to a yard.
Filling these two wings with the wind, and careening, so as almost
to touch the surface of the water, these boats will fly along with
astonishing swiftness. Unlike our European boats, they do not cut
the waves, but glide over them like a sea-gull.
The surroundings of the bay transported us to some fairy land of
the Arabian Nights. The ridge of the Western Ghats, cut through
here and there by some separate hills almost as high as themselves,
stretched all along the Eastern shore. From the base to their
fantastic, rocky tops, they are all overgrown with impenetrable
forests and jungles inhabited by wild animals. Every rock has been
enriched by the popular imagination with an independent legend. All
over the slope of the mountain are scattered the pagodas, mosques,
and temples of numberless sects. Here and there the hot rays of the
sun strike upon an old fortress, once dreadful and inaccessible,
now half ruined and covered with prickly cactus. At every step some
memorial of sanctity. Here a deep vihara, a cave cell of a Buddhist
bhikshu saint, there a rock protected by the symbol of Shiva,
further on a Jaina temple, or a holy tank, all covered with sedge
and filled with water, once blessed by a Brahman and able to purify
every sin, all indispensable attribute of all pagodas. All the
surroundings are covered with symbols of gods and goddesses. Each
of the three hundred and thirty millions of deities of the Hindu
Pantheon has its representative in something consecrated to it, a
stone, a flower, a tree, or a bird. On the West side of the Malabar
Hill peeps through the trees Valakeshvara, the temple of the "Lord
of Sand." A long stream of Hindus moves towards this celebrated
temple; men and women, shining with rings on their fingers and
toes, with bracelets from their wrists up to their elbows, clad in
bright turbans and snow white muslins, with foreheads freshly
painted with red, yellow, and white, holy sectarian signs.
The legend says that Rama spent here a night on his way from
Ayodhya (Oudh) to Lanka (Ceylon) to fetch his wife Sita who had
been stolen by the wicked King Ravana. Rama's brother Lakshman,
whose duty it was to send him daily a new lingam from Benares, was
late in doing so one evening. Losing patience, Rama erected for
himself a lingam of sand. When, at last, the symbol arrived from
Benares, it was put in a temple, and the lingam erected by Rama was
left on the shore. There it stayed during long centuries, but, at
the arrival of the Portuguese, the "Lord of Sand" felt so disgusted
with the feringhi (foreigners) that he jumped into the sea never to
return. A little farther on there is a charming tank, called
Vanattirtha, or the "point of the arrow." Here Rama, the much
worshipped hero of the Hindus, felt thirsty and, not finding any
water, shot an arrow and immediately there was created a pond. Its
crystal waters were surrounded by a high wall, steps were built
leading down to it, and a circle of white marble dwellings was
filled with dwija (twice born) Brahmans.
India is the land of legends and of mysterious nooks and corners.
There is not a ruin, not a monument, not a thicket, that has no
story attached to it. Yet, however they may be entangled in the
cobweb of popular imagination, which becomes thicker with every
generation, it is difficult to point out a single one that is not
founded on fact. With patience and, still more, with the help of
the learned Brahmans you can always get at the truth, when once you
have secured their trust and friendship.
The same road leads to the temple of the Parsee fire-worshippers.
At its altar burns an unquenchable fire, which daily consumes
hundredweights of sandal wood and aromatic herbs. Lit three hundred
years ago, the sacred fire has never been extinguished,
notwithstanding many disorders, sectarian discords, and even wars.
The Parsees are very proud of this temple of Zaratushta, as they
call Zoroaster. Compared with it the Hindu pagodas look like
brightly painted Easter eggs. Generally they are consecrated to
Hanuman, the monkey-god and the faithful ally of Rama, or to the
elephant headed Ganesha, the god of the occult wisdom, or to one of
the Devis. You meet with these temples in every street. Before each
there is a row of pipals (Ficus religiosa) centuries old, which no
temple can dispense with, because these trees are the abode of the
elementals and the sinful souls.
All this is entangled, mixed, and scattered, appearing to one's
eyes like a picture in a dream. Thirty centuries have left their
traces here. The innate laziness and the strong conservative
tendencies of the Hindus, even before the European invasion,
preserved all kinds of monuments from the ruinous vengeance of the
fanatics, whether those memorials were Buddhist, or belonged to
some other unpopular sect. The Hindus are not naturally given to
senseless vandalism, and a phrenologist would vainly look for a
bump of destructiveness on their skulls. If you meet with
antiquities that, having been spared by time, are, nowadays, either
destroyed or disfigured, it is not they who are to blame, but
either Mussulmans, or the Portuguese under the guidance of the
Jesuits.
At last we were anchored and, in a moment, were besieged, ourselves
as well as our luggage, by numbers of naked skeleton-like Hindus,
Parsees, Moguls, and various other tribes. All this crowd emerged,
as if from the bottom of the sea, and began to shout, to chatter,
and to yell, as only the tribes of Asia can. To get rid of this
Babel confusion of tongues as soon as possible, we took refuge in
the first bunder boat and made for the shore.
Once settled in the bungalow awaiting us, the first thing we were
struck with in Bombay was the millions of crows and vultures. The
first are, so to speak, the County Council of the town, whose duty
it is to clean the streets, and to kill one of them is not only
forbidden by the police, but would be very dangerous. By killing
one you would rouse the vengeance of every Hindu, who is always
ready to offer his own life in exchange for a crow's. The souls of
the sinful forefathers transmigrate into crows and to kill one is
to interfere with the law of Karma and to expose the poor ancestor
to something still worse. Such is the firm belief, not only of
Hindus, but of Parsees, even the most enlightened amongst them. The
strange behaviour of the Indian crows explains, to a certain
extent, this superstition. The vultures are, in a way, the
grave-diggers of the Parsees and are under the personal protection
of the Farvardania, the angel of death, who soars over the Tower of
Silence, watching the occupations of the feathered workmen.
The deafening caw of the crows strikes every new comer as uncanny,
but, after a while, is explained very simply. Every tree of the
numerous cocoa-nut forests round Bombay is provided with a hollow
pumpkin. The sap of the tree drops into it and, after fermenting,
becomes a most intoxicating beverage, known in Bombay under the
name of toddy. The naked toddy wallahs, generally half-caste
Portuguese, modestly adorned with a single coral necklace, fetch
this beverage twice a day, climbing the hundred and fifty feet high
trunks like squirrels. The crows mostly build their nests on the
tops of the cocoa-nut palms and drink incessantly out of the open
pumpkins. The result of this is the chronic intoxication of the
birds. As soon as we went out in the garden of our new habitation,
flocks of crows came down heavily from every tree. The noise they
make whilst jumping about everywhere is indescribable. There seemed
to be something positively human in the positions of the slyly bent
heads of the drunken birds, and a fiendish light shone in their
eyes while they were examining us from foot to head.
We occupied three small bungalows, lost, like nests, in the garden,
their roofs literally smothered in roses blossoming on bushes
twenty feet high, and their windows covered only with muslin,
instead of the usual panes of glass. The bungalows were situated in
the native part of the town, so that we were transported, all at
once, into the real India. We were living in India, unlike English
people, who are only surrounded by India at a certain distance. We
were enabled to study her character and customs, her religion,
superstitions and rites, to learn her legends, in fact, to live
among Hindus.
Everything in India, this land of the elephant and the poisonous
cobra, of the tiger and the unsuccessful English missionary, is
original and strange. Everything seems unusual, unexpected, and
striking, even to one who has travelled in Turkey, Egypt, Damascus,
and Palestine. In these tropical regions the conditions of nature
are so various that all the forms of the animal and vegetable
kingdoms must radically differ from what we are used to in Europe.
Look, for instance, at those women on their way to a well through a
garden, which is private and at the same time open to anyone,
because somebody's cows are grazing in it. To whom does it not
happen to meet with women, to see cows, and admire a garden?
Doubtless these are among the commonest of all things. But a single
attentive glance will suffice to show you the difference that
exists between the same objects in Europe and in India. Nowhere
more than in India does a human being feel his weakness and
insignificance. The majesty of the tropical growth is such that our
highest trees would look dwarfed compared with banyans and
especially with palms. A European cow, mistaking, at first sight,
her Indian sister for a calf, would deny the existence of any
kinship between them, as neither the mouse-coloured wool, nor the
straight goat-like horns, nor the humped back of the latter would
permit her to make such an error. As to the women, each of them
would make any artist feel enthusiastic about the gracefulness of
her movements and drapery, but still, no pink and white, stout Anna
Ivanovna would condescend to greet her. "Such a shame, God forgive
me, the woman is entirely naked!"
This opinion of the modern Russian woman is nothing but the echo of
what was said in 1470 by a distinguished Russian traveler, "the
sinful slave of God, Athanasius son of Nikita from Tver," as he
styles himself. He describes India as follows: "This is the land of
India. Its people are naked, never cover their heads, and wear
their hair braided. Women have babies every year. Men and women are
black. Their prince wears a veil round his head and wraps another
veil round his legs. The noblemen wear a veil on one shoulder, and
the noblewomen on the shoulders and round the loins, but everyone
is barefooted. The women walk about with their hair spread and
their breasts naked. The children, boys and girls, never cover
their shame until they are seven years old...." This description is
quite correct, but Athanasius Nikita's son is right only concerning
the lowest and poorest classes. These really do "walk about"
covered only with a veil, which often is so poor that, in fact, it
is nothing but a rag. But still, even the poorest woman is clad in
a piece of muslin at least ten yards long. One end serves as a sort
of short petticoat, and the other covers the head and shoulders
when out in the street, though the faces are always uncovered. The
hair is erected into a kind of Greek chignon. The legs up to the
knees, the arms, and the waist are never covered. There is not a
single respectable woman who would consent to put on a pair of
shoes. Shoes are the attribute and the prerogative of disreputable
women. When, some time ago, the wife of the Madras governor thought
of passing a law that should induce native women to cover their
breasts, the place was actually threatened with a revolution. A
kind of jacket is worn only by dancing girls. The Government
recognized that it would be unreasonable to irritate women, who,
very often, are more dangerous than their husbands and brothers,
and the custom, based on the law of Manu, and sanctified by three
thousand years' observance, remained unchanged.
For more than two years before we left America we were in constant
correspondence with a certain learned Brahman, whose glory is great
at present (1879) all over India. We came to India to study, under
his guidance, the ancient country of Aryas, the Vedas, and their
difficult language. His name is Dayanand Saraswati Swami. Swami is
the name of the learned anchorites who are initiated into many
mysteries unattainable by common mortals. They are monks who never
marry, but are quite different from other mendicant brotherhoods,
the so-called Sannyasi and Hossein. This Pandit is considered the
greatest Sanskritist of modern India and is an absolute enigma to
everyone. It is only five years since he appeared on the arena of
great reforms, but till then, he lived, entirely secluded, in a
jungle, like the ancient gymnosophists mentioned by the Greek and
Latin authors. At this time he was studying the chief philosophical
systems of the "Aryavartta" and the occult meaning of the Vedas
with the help of mystics and anchorites. All Hindus believe that on
the Bhadrinath Mountains (22,000 feet above the level of the sea)
there exist spacious caves, inhabited, now for many thousand years,
by these anchorites. Bhadrinath is situated in the north of
Hindustan on the river Bishegunj, and is celebrated for its temple
of Vishnu right in the heart of the town. Inside the temple there
are hot mineral springs, visited yearly by about fifty thousand
pilgrims, who come to be purified by them.
From the first day of his appearance Dayanand Saraswati produced an
immense impression and got the surname of the "Luther of India."
Wandering from one town to another, today in the South, tomorrow in
the North, and transporting himself from one end of the country to
another with incredible quickness, he has visited every part of
India, from Cape Comorin to the Himalayas, and from Calcutta to
Bombay. He preaches the One Deity and, "Vedas in hand," proves that
in the ancient writings there was not a word that could justify
polytheism. Thundering against idol worship, the great orator
fights with all his might against caste, infant marriages, and
superstitions. Chastising all the evils grafted on India by
centuries of casuistry and false interpretation of the Vedas, he
blames for them the Brahmans, who, as he openly says before masses
of people, are alone guilty of the humiliation of their country,
once great and independent, now fallen and enslaved. And yet Great
Britain has in him not an enemy, but rather an ally. He says
openly—"If you expel the English, then, no later than tomorrow, you
and I and everyone who rises against idol worship will have our
throats cut like mere sheep. The Mussulmans are stronger than the
idol worshippers; but these last are stronger than we." The Pandit
held many a warm dispute with the Brah-mans, those treacherous
enemies of the people, and has almost always been victorious. In
Benares secret assassins were hired to slay him, but the attempt
did not succeed. In a small town of Bengal, where he treated
fetishism with more than his usual severity, some fanatic threw on
his naked feet a huge cobra. There are two snakes deified by the
Brahman mythology: the one which surrounds the neck of Shiva on his
idols is called Vasuki; the other, Ananta, forms the couch of
Vishnu. So the worshipper of Shiva, feeling sure that his cobra,
trained purposely for the mysteries of a Shivaite pagoda, would at
once make an end of the offender's life, triumphantly exclaimed,
"Let the god Vasuki himself show which of us is right!"
Dayanand jerked off the cobra twirling round his leg, and with a
single vigorous movement, crushed the reptile's head. "Let him do
so," he quietly assented. "Your god has been too slow. It is I who
have decided the dispute, Now go," added he, addressing the crowd,
"and tell everyone how easily perish the false gods."
Thanks to his excellent knowledge of Sanskrit the Pandit does a
great service, not only to the masses, clearing their ignorance
about the monotheism of the Vedas, but to science too, showing who,
exactly, are the Brahmans, the only caste in India which, during
centuries, had the right to study Sanskrit literature and comment
on the Vedas, and which used this right solely for its own
advantage.
Long before the time of such Orientalists as Burnouf, Colebrooke
and Max Muller, there have been in India many reformers who tried
to prove the pure monotheism of the Vedic doctrines. There have
even been founders of new religions who denied the revelations of
these scriptures; for instance, the Raja Ram Mohun Roy, and, after
him, Babu Keshub Chunder Sen, both Calcutta Bengalees. But neither
of them had much success. They did nothing but add new
denominations to the numberless sects existing in India. Ram Mohun
Roy died in England, having done next to nothing, and Keshub
Chunder Sen, having founded the community of "Brahmo-Samaj," which
professes a religion extracted from the depths of the Babu's own
imagination, became a mystic of the most pronounced type, and now
is only "a berry from the same field," as we say in Russia, as the
Spiritualists, by whom he is considered to be a medium and a
Calcutta Swedenborg. He spends his time in a dirty tank, singing
praises to Chaitanya, Koran, Buddha, and his own person,
proclaiming himself their prophet, and performs a mystical dance,
dressed in woman's attire, which, on his part, is an attention to a
"woman goddess" whom the Babu calls his "mother, father and eldest
brother."
In short, all the attempts to re-establish the pure primitive
monotheism of Aryan India have been a failure. They always got
wrecked upon the double rock of Brahmanism and of prejudices
centuries old. But lo! here appears unexpectedly the pandit
Dayanand. None, even of the most beloved of his disciples, knows
who he is and whence he comes. He openly confesses before the
crowds that the name under which he is known is not his, but was
given to him at the Yogi initiation.
The mystical school of Yogis was established by Patanjali, the
founder of one of the six philosophical systems of ancient India.
It is supposed that the Neo-platonists of the second and third
Alexandrian Schools were the followers of Indian Yogis, more
especially was their theurgy brought from India by Pythagoras,
according to the tradition. There still exist in India hundreds of
Yogis who follow the system of Patanjali, and assert that they are
in communion with Brahma. Nevertheless, most of them are
do-nothings, mendicants by profession, and great frauds, thanks to
the insatiable longing of the natives for miracles. The real Yogis
avoid appearing in public, and spend their lives in secluded
retirement and studies, except when, as in Dayanand's case, they
come forth in time of need to aid their country. However, it is
perfectly certain that India never saw a more learned Sanskrit
scholar, a deeper metaphysician, a more wonderful orator, and a
more fearless denunciator of every evil, than Dayanand, since the
time of Sankharacharya, the celebrated founder of the Vedanta
philosophy, the most metaphysical of Indian systems, in fact, the
crown of pantheistic teaching. Then, Dayanand's personal appearance
is striking. He is immensely tall, his complexion is pale, rather
European than Indian, his eyes are large and bright, and his
greyish hair is long. The Yogis and Dikshatas (initiated) never cut
either their hair or beard. His voice is clear and loud, well
calculated to give expression to every shade of deep feeling,
ranging from a sweet childish caressing whisper to thundering wrath
against the evil doings and falsehoods of the priests. All this
taken together produces an indescribable effect on the
impressionable Hindu. Wherever Dayanand appears crowds prostrate
themselves in the dust over his footprints; but, unlike Babu Keshub
Chunder Sen, he does not teach a new religion, does not invent new
dogmas. He only asks them to renew their half-forgotten Sanskrit
studies, and, having compared the doctrines of their forefathers
with what they have become in the hands of Brahmans, to return to
the pure conceptions of Deity taught by the primitive Rishis—Agni,
Vayu, Aditya, and Anghira—the patriarchs who first gave the Vedas
to humanity. He does not even claim that the Vedas are a heavenly
revelation, but simply teaches that "every word in these scriptures
belongs to the highest inspiration possible to the earthly man, an
inspiration that is repeated in the history of humanity, and, when
necessary, may happen to any nation....."
During his five years of work Swami Dayanand made about two million
proselytes, chiefly amongst the higher castes. Judging by
appearances, they are all ready to sacrifice to him their lives and
souls and even their earthly possessions, which are often more
precious to them than their lives. But Dayanand is a real Yogi, he
never touches money, and despises pecuniary affairs. He contents
himself with a few handfuls of rice per day. One is inclined to
think that this wonderful Hindu bears a charmed life, so careless
is he of rousing the worst human passions, which are so dangerous
in India. A marble statue could not be less moved by the raging
wrath of the crowd. We saw him once at work. He sent away all his
faithful followers and forbade them either to watch over him or to
defend him, and stood alone before the infuriated crowd, facing
calmly the monster ready to spring upon him and tear him to
pieces.
Here a short explanation is necessary. A few years ago a society of
well-informed, energetic people was formed in New York. A certain
sharp-witted savant surnamed them "La Societe des Malcontents du
Spiritisme." The founders of this club were people who, believing
in the phenomena of spiritualism as much as in the possibility of
every other phenomenon in Nature, still denied the theory of the
"spirits." They considered that the modern psychology was a science
still in the first stages of its development, in total ignorance of
the nature of the psychic man, and denying, as do many other
sciences, all that cannot be explained according to its own
particular theories.
From the first days of its existence some of the most learned
Americans joined the Society, which became known as the
Theosophical Society. Its members differed on many points, much as
do the members of any other Society, Geographical or Archeological,
which fights for years over the sources of the Nile, or the
Hieroglyphs of Egypt. But everyone is unanimously agreed that, as
long as there is water in the Nile, its sources must exist
somewhere. So much about the phenomena of spiritualism and
mesmerism. These phenomena were still waiting their Champollion—but
the Rosetta stone was to be searched for neither in Europe nor in
America, but in the far-away countries where they still believe in
magic, where wonders are performed daily by the native priesthood,
and where the cold materialism of science has never yet reached—in
one word, in the East.
The Council of the Society knew that the Lama-Buddhists, for
instance, though not believing in God, and denying the personal
immortality of the soul, are yet celebrated for their "phenomena,"
and that mesmerism was known and daily practised in China from time
immemorial under the name of "gina." In India they fear and hate
the very name of the spirits whom the Spiritualists venerate so
deeply, yet many an ignorant fakir can perform "miracles"
calculated to turn upside-down all the notions of a scientist and
to be the despair of the most celebrated of European
prestidigitateurs. Many members of the Society have visited
India—many were born there and have themselves witnessed the
"sorceries" of the Brahmans. The founders of the Club, well aware
of the depth of modern ignorance in regard to the spiritual man,
were most anxious that Cuvier's method of comparative anatomy
should acquire rights of citizenship among metaphysicians, and, so,
progress from regions physical to regions psychological on its own
inductive and deductive foundation. "Otherwise," they thought,
"psychology will be unable to move forward a single step, and may
even obstruct every other branch of Natural History." Instances
have not been wanting of physiology poaching on the preserves of
purely metaphysical and abstract knowledge, all the time feigning
to ignore the latter absolutely, and seeking to class psychology
with the positive sciences, having first bound it to a Bed of
Procrustes, where it refuses to yield its secret to its clumsy
tormentors.
In a short time the Theosophical Society counted its members, not
by hundreds, but by thousands. All the "malcontents" of American
Spiritualism—and there were at that time twelve million
Spiritualists in America—joined the Society. Collateral branches
were formed in London, Corfu, Australia, Spain, Cuba, California,
etc. Everywhere experiments were being performed, and the
conviction that it is not spirits alone who are the causes of the
phenomena was becoming general.
In course of time branches of the Society were in India and in
Ceylon. The Buddhist and Brahmanical members became more numerous
than the Europeans. A league was formed, and to the name of the
Society was added the subtitle, "The Brotherhood of Humanity."
After an active correspondence between the Arya-Samaj, founded by
Swami Dayanand, and the Theosophical Society, an amalgamation was
arranged between the two bodies. Then the Chief Council of the New
York branch decided upon sending a special delegation to India, for
the purpose of studying, on the spot, the ancient language of the
Vedas and the manuscripts and the wonders of Yogism. On the 17th of
December, 1878, the delegation, composed of two secretaries and two
members of the council of the Theosophical Society, started from
New York, to pause for a while in London, and then to proceed to
Bombay, where it landed in February, 1879.
It may easily be conceived that, under these circumstances, the
members of the delegation were better able to study the country and
to make fruitful researches than might, otherwise, have been the
case. Today they are looked upon as brothers and aided by the most
influential natives of India. They count among the members of their
society pandits of Benares and Calcutta, and Buddhist priests of
the Ceylon Viharas—amongst others the learned Sumangala, mentioned
by Minayeff in the description of his visit to Adam's Peak—and
Lamas of Thibet, Burmah, Travancore and elsewhere. The members of
the delegation are admitted to sanctuaries where, as yet, no
European has set his foot. Consequently they may hope to render
many services to Humanity and Science, in spite of the illwill
which the representatives of positive science bear to them.
As soon as the delegation landed, a telegram was despatched to
Dayanand, as everyone was anxious to make his personal
acquaintance. In reply, he said that he was obliged to go
immediately to Hardwar, where hundreds of thousands of pilgrims
were expected to assemble, but he insisted on our remaining behind,
since cholera was certain to break out among the devotees. He
appointed a certain spot, at the foot of the Himalayas, in the jab,
where we were to meet in a month's time.
Alas! all this was written some time ago. Since then Swami
Dayanand's countenance has changed completely toward us. He is,
now, an enemy of the Theosophical Society and its two
founders—Colonel Olcott and the author of these letters. It
appeared that, on entering into an offensive and defensive alliance
with the Society, Dayanand nourished the hope that all its members,
Christians, Brahmans and Buddhists, would acknowledge His
supremacy, and become members of the Arya Samaj.
Needless to say, this was impossible. The Theosophical Society
rests on the principle of complete non-interference with the
religious beliefs of its members. Toleration is its basis and its
aims are purely philosophical. This did not suit Dayanand. He
wanted all the members, either to become his disciples, or to be
expelled from the Society. It was quite clear that neither the
President, nor the Council could assent to such a claim. Englishmen
and Americans, whether they were Christians or Freethinkers,
Buddhists, and especially Brahmans, revolted against Dayanand, and
unanimously demanded that the league should be broken.
However, all this happened later. At the time of which I speak we
were friends and allies of the Swami, and we learned with deep
interest that the Hardwar "mela," which he was to visit, takes
place every twelve years, and is a kind of religious fair, which
attracts representatives from all the numerous sects of
India.
Learned dissertations are read by the disputants in defence of
their peculiar doctrines, and the debates are held in public. This
year the Hardwar gathering was exceptionally numerous. The
Sannyasis—the mendicant monks of India—alone numbered 35,000 and
the cholera, foreseen by the Swami, actually broke out.
As we were not yet to start for the appointed meeting, we had
plenty of spare time before us; so we proceeded to examine
Bombay.
The Tower of Silence, on the heights of the Malabar Hill, is the
last abode of all the sons of Zoroaster. It is, in fact, a Parsee
cemetery. Here their dead, rich and poor, men, women and children,
are all laid in a row, and in a few minutes nothing remains of them
but bare skeletons. A dismal impression is made upon a foreigner by
these towers, where absolute silence has reigned for centuries.
This kind of building is very common in every place were Parsees
live and die. In Bombay, of six towers, the largest was built 250
years ago, and the least but a short time since. With few
exceptions, they are round or square in shape, from twenty to forty
feet high, without roof, window, or door, but with a single iron
gate opening towards the East, and so small that it is quite
covered by a few bushes. The first corpse brought to a new
tower—"dakhma"—must be the body of the innocent child of a mobed or
priest. No one, not even the chief watcher, is allowed to approach
within a distance of thirty paces of these towers. Of all living
human beings "nassesalars"—corpse-carriers—alone enter and leave
the "Tower of Silence." The life these men lead is simply wretched.
No European executioner's position is worse. They live quite apart
from the rest of the world, in whose eyes they are the most abject
of beings. Being forbidden to enter the markets, they must get
their food as they can. They are born, marry, and die, perfect
strangers to all except their own class, passing through the
streets only to fetch the dead and carry them to the tower. Even to
be near one of them is a degradation. Entering the tower with a
corpse, covered, whatever may have been its rank or position, with
old white rags, they undress it and place it, in silence, on one of
the three rows presently to be described. Then, still preserving
the same silence, they come out, shut the gate, and burn the
rags.
Amongst the fire-worshippers, Death is divested of all his majesty
and is a mere object of disgust. As soon as the last hour of a sick
person seems to approach, everyone leaves the chamber of death, as
much to avoid impeding the departure of the soul from the body, as
to shun the risk of polluting the living by contact with the dead.
The mobed alone stays with the dying man for a while, and having
whispered into his ear the Zend-Avesta precepts, "ashem-vohu" and
"Yato-Ahuvarie," leaves the room while the patient is still alive.
Then a dog is brought and made to look straight into his face. This
ceremony is called "sas-did," the "dog's-stare." A dog is the only
living creature that the "Drux-nassu"—the evil one—fears, and that
is able to prevent him from taking possession of the body. It must
be strictly observed that no one's shadow lies between the dying
man and the dog, otherwise the whole strength of the dog's gaze
will be lost, and the demon will profit by the occasion. The body
remains on the spot where life left it, until the nassesalars
appear, their arms hidden to the shoulders under old bags, to take
it away. Having deposited it in an iron coffin—the same for
everyone—they carry it to the dakhma. If any one, who has once been
carried thither, should happen to regain consciousness, the
nassesalars are bound to kill him; for such a person, who has been
polluted by one touch of the dead bodies in the dakhma, has thereby
lost all right to return to the living, by doing so he would
contaminate the whole community. As some such cases have occurred,
the Parsees are trying to get a new law passed, that would allow
the miserable ex-corpses to live again amongst their friends, and
that would compel the nassesalars to leave the only gate of the
dakhma unlocked, so that they might find a way of retreat open to
them. It is very curious, but it is said that the vultures, which
devour without hesitation the corpses, will never touch those who
are only apparently dead, but fly away uttering loud shrieks. After
a last prayer at the gate of the dakhma, pronounced from afar by
the mobed, and re-peated in chorus by the nassesalars, the dog
ceremony is repeated. In Bombay there is a dog, trained for this
purpose, at the entrance to the tower. Finally, the body is taken
inside and placed on one or other of the rows, according to its sex
and age.
We have twice been present at the ceremonies of dying, and once of
burial, if I may be permitted to use such an incongruous term. In
this respect the Parsees are much more tolerant than the Hindus,
who are offended by the mere presence at their religious rites of
an European. N. Bayranji, a chief official of the tower, invited us
to his house to be present at the burial of some rich woman. So we
witnessed all that was going on at a distance of about forty paces,
sitting quietly on our obliging host's verandah. While the dog was
staring into the dead woman's face, we were gazing, as intently,
but with much more disgust, at the huge flock of vultures above the
dakhma, that kept entering the tower, and flying out again with
pieces of human flesh in their beaks. These birds, that build their
nests in thousands round the Tower of Silence, have been purposely
imported from Persia. Indian vultures proved to be too weak, and
not sufficiently bloodthirsty, to perform the process of stripping
the bones with the despatch prescribed by Zoroaster. We were told
that the entire operation of denuding the bones occupies no more
than a few minutes. As soon as the ceremony was over, we were led
into another building, where a model of the dakhma was to be seen.
We could now very easily imagine what was to take place presently
inside the tower. In the centre there is a deep waterless well,
covered with a grating like the opening into a drain. Around it are
three broad circles, gradually sloping downwards. In each of them
are coffin-like receptacles for the bodies. There are three hundred
and sixty-five such places. The first and smallest row is destined
for children, the second for women, and the third for men. This
threefold circle is symbolical of three cardinal Zoroastrian
virtues—pure thoughts, kind words, and good actions. Thanks to the
vultures, the bones are laid bare in less than an hour, and, in two
or three weeks, the tropical sun scorches them into such a state of
fragility, that the slightest breath of wind is enough to reduce
them to powder and to carry them down into the pit. No smell is
left behind, no source of plagues and epidemics. I do not know that
this way may not be preferable to cremation, which leaves in the
air about the Ghat a faint but disagreeable odour. The Ghat is a
place by the sea, or river shore, where Hindus burn their dead.
Instead of feeding the old Slavonic deity "Mother Wet Earth" with
carrion, Parsees give to Armasti pure dust. Armasti means,
literally, "fostering cow," and Zoroaster teaches that the
cultivation of land is the noblest of all occupations in the eyes
of God. Accordingly, the worship of Earth is so sacred among the
Parsees, that they take all possible precautions against polluting
the "fostering cow" that gives them "a hundred golden grains for
every single grain." In the season of the Monsoon, when, during
four months, the rain pours incessantly down and washes into the
well everything that is left by the vultures, the water absorbed by
the earth is filtered, for the bottom of the well, the walls of
which are built of granite, is, to this end, covered with sand and
charcoal.
The sight of the Pinjarapala is less lugubrious and much more
amusing. The Pinjarapala is the Bombay Hospital for decrepit
animals, but a similar institution exists in every town where
Jainas dwell. Being one of the most ancient, this is also one of
the most interesting, of the sects of India. It is much older than
Buddhism, which took its rise about 543 to 477 B.C. Jainas boast
that Buddhism is nothing more than a mere heresy of Jainism,
Gautama, the founder of Buddhism, having been a disciple and
follower of one of the Jaina Gurus. The customs, rites, and
philosophical conceptions of Jainas place them midway between the
Brahmanists and the Buddhists. In view of their social
arrangements, they more closely resemble the former, but in their
religion they incline towards the latter. Their caste divisions,
their total abstinence from flesh, and their non-worship of the
relics of the saints, are as strictly observed as the similar
tenets of the Brahmans, but, like Buddhists, they deny the Hindu
gods and the authority of the Vedas, and adore their own
twenty-four Tirthankaras, or Jinas, who belong to the Host of the
Blissful. Their priests, like the Buddhists', never marry, they
live in isolated viharas and choose their successors from amongst
the members of any social class. According to them, Prakrit is the
only sacred language, and is used in their sacred literature, as
well as in Ceylon. Jainas and Buddhists have the same traditional
chronology. They do not eat after sunset, and carefully dust any
place before sitting down upon it, that they may not crush even the
tiniest of insects. Both systems, or rather both schools of
philosophy, teach the theory of eternal indestructible atoms,
following the ancient atomistic school of Kanada. They assert that
the universe never had a beginning and never will have an end. "The
world and everything in it is but an illusion, a Maya," say the
Vedantists, the Buddhists, and the Jainas; but, whereas the
followers of Sankaracharya preach Parabrahm (a deity devoid of
will, understanding, and action, because "It is absolute
understanding, mind and will"), and Ishwara emanating from It, the
Jainas and the Buddhists believe in no Creator of the Universe, but
teach only the existence of Swabhawati, a plastic, infinite,
self-created principle in Nature. Still they firmly believe, as do
all Indian sects, in the transmigration of souls. Their fear, lest,
by killing an animal or an insect, they may, perchance, destroy the
life of an ancestor, develops their love and care for every living
creature to an almost incredible extent. Not only is there a
hospital for invalid animals in every town and village, but their
priests always wear a muslin muzzle, (I trust they will pardon the
disrespectful expression!) in order to avoid destroying even the
smallest animalcule, by inadvertence in the act of breathing. The
same fear impels them to drink only filtered water. There are a few
millions of Jainas in Gujerat, Bombay, Konkan, and some other
places.
The Bombay Pinjarapala occupies a whole quarter of the town, and is
separated into yards, meadows and gardens, with ponds, cages for
beasts of prey, and enclosures for tame animals. This institution
would have served very well for a model of Noah's Ark. In the first
yard, however, we saw no animals, but, instead, a few hundred human
skeletons—old men, women and children. They were the remaining
natives of the, so-called, famine districts, who had crowded into
Bombay to beg their bread. Thus, while, a few yards off, the
official "Vets." were busily bandaging the broken legs of jackals,
pouring ointments on the backs of mangy dogs, and fitting crutches
to lame storks, human beings were dying, at their very elbows, of
starvation. Happily for the famine-stricken, there were at that
time fewer hungry animals than usual, and so they were fed on what
remained from the meals of the brute pensioners. No doubt many of
these wretched sufferers would have consented to transmigrate
instantly into the bodies of any of the animals who were ending so
snugly their earthly careers.
But even the Pinjarajala roses are not without thorns. The
graminivorous "subjects," of course, could mot wish for anything
better; but I doubt very much whether the beasts of prey, such as
tigers, hyenas, and wolves, are content with the rules and the
forcibly prescribed diet. Jainas themselves turn with disgust even
from eggs and fish, and, in consequence, all the animals of which
they have the care must turn vegetarians. We were present when an
old tiger, wounded by an English bullet, was fed. Having sniffed at
a kind of rice soup which was offered to him, he lashed his tail,
snarled, showing his yellow teeth, and with a weak roar turned away
from the food. What a look he cast askance upon his keeper, who was
meekly trying to persuade him to taste his nice dinner! Only the
strong bars of the cage saved the Jaina from a vigorous protest on
the part of this veteran of the forest. A hyena, with a bleeding
head and an ear half torn off, began by sitting in the trough
filled with this Spartan sauce, and then, without any further
ceremony, upset it, as if to show its utter contempt for the mess.
The wolves and the dogs raised such disconsolate howls that they
attracted the attention of two inseparable friends, an old elephant
with a wooden leg and a sore-eyed ox, the veritable Castor and
Pollux of this institution. In accordance with his noble nature,
the first thought of the elephant concerned his friend. He wound
his trunk round the neck of the ox, in token of protection, and
both moaned dismally. Parrots, storks, pigeons, flamingoes—the
whole feathered tribe—revelled in their breakfast. Monkeys were the
first to answer the keeper's invitation and greatly enjoyed
themselves. Further on we were shown a holy man, who was feeding
insects with his own blood. He lay with his eyes shut, and the
scorching rays of the sun striking full upon his naked body. He was
literally covered with flies, mosquitoes, ants and bugs.
"All these are our brothers," mildly observed the keeper, pointing
to the hundreds of animals and insects. "How can you Europeans kill
and even devour them?"
"What would you do," I asked, "if this snake were about to bite
you? Is it possible you would not kill it, if you had time?"
"Not for all the world. I should cautiously catch it, and then I
should carry it to some deserted place outside the town, and there
set it free."
"Nevertheless; suppose it bit you?"
"Then I should recite a mantram, and, if that produced no good
result, I should be fair to consider it as the finger of Fate, and
quietly leave this body for another."
These were the words of a man who was educated to a certain extent,
and very well read. When we pointed out that no gift of Nature is
aimless, and that the human teeth are all devouring, he answered by
quoting whole chapters of Darwin's Theory of Natural Selection and
Origin of Species. "It is not true," argued he, "that the first men
were born with canine teeth. It was only in course of time, with
the degradation of humanity,—only when the appetite for flesh food
began to develop—that the jaws changed their first shape under the
influence of new necessities."
I could not help asking myself, "Ou la science va-t'elle se
fourrer?"