CHAPTER I. THE FOREIGNER AT
HOME
“This is no my ain house; I ken
by the biggin’ o’t.”
Two recent books one by Mr. Grant
White on England, one on France by the diabolically clever Mr.
Hillebrand, may well have set people thinking on the divisions of
races and nations. Such thoughts should arise with particular
congruity and force to inhabitants of that United Kingdom, peopled
from so many different stocks, babbling so many different dialects,
and offering in its extent such singular contrasts, from the
busiest over-population to the unkindliest desert, from the Black
Country to the Moor of Rannoch. It is not only when we cross the
seas that we go abroad; there are foreign parts of England; and the
race that has conquered so wide an empire has not yet managed to
assimilate the islands whence she sprang. Ireland, Wales, and the
Scottish mountains still cling, in part, to their old Gaelic
speech. It was but the other day that English triumphed in
Cornwall, and they still show in Mousehole, on St. Michael’s Bay,
the house of the last Cornish-speaking woman. English itself, which
will now frank the traveller through the most of North America,
through the greater South Sea Islands, in India, along much of the
coast of Africa, and in the ports of China and Japan, is still to
be heard, in
its home country, in half a
hundred varying stages of transition. You may go all over the
States, and—setting aside the actual intrusion and influence of
foreigners, negro, French, or Chinese—you shall scarce meet with so
marked a difference of accent as in the forty miles between
Edinburgh and Glasgow, or of dialect as in the hundred miles
between Edinburgh and Aberdeen. Book English has gone round the
world, but at home we still preserve the racy idioms of our
fathers, and every county, in some parts every dale, has its own
quality of speech, vocal or verbal. In like manner, local custom
and prejudice, even local religion and local law, linger on into
the latter end of the nineteenth century—imperia in imperio,
foreign things at home.
In spite of these promptings to
reflection, ignorance of his neighbours is the character of the
typical John Bull. His is a domineering nature, steady in fight,
imperious to command, but neither curious nor quick about the life
of others. In French colonies, and still more in the Dutch, I have
read that there is an immediate and lively contact between the
dominant and the dominated race, that a certain sympathy is
begotten, or at the least a transfusion of prejudices, making life
easier for both. But the Englishman sits apart, bursting with pride
and ignorance. He figures among his vassals in the hour of peace
with the same disdainful air that led him on to victory. A passing
enthusiasm for some foreign art or fashion may deceive the world,
it cannot impose upon his intimates. He may be amused by a
foreigner as by a monkey, but he will never condescend to study him
with any patience. Miss Bird, an authoress with whom I profess
myself in love, declares all the viands of Japan to be
uneatable
—a staggering pretension. So,
when the Prince of Wales’s marriage was
celebrated at Mentone by a dinner
to the Mentonese, it was proposed to give them solid English
fare—roast beef and plum pudding, and no tomfoolery. Here we have
either pole of the Britannic folly. We will not eat the food of any
foreigner; nor, when we have the chance, will we suffer him to eat
of it himself. The same spirit inspired Miss Bird’s American
missionaries, who had come thousands of miles to change the faith
of Japan, and openly professed their ignorance of the religions
they were trying to supplant.
I quote an American in this
connection without scruple. Uncle Sam is better than John Bull, but
he is tarred with the English stick. For Mr. Grant White the States
are the New England States and nothing more. He wonders at the
amount of drinking in London; let him try San Francisco. He wittily
reproves English ignorance as to the status of women in America;
but has he not himself forgotten Wyoming? The name Yankee, of which
he is so tenacious, is used over the most of the great Union as a
term of reproach. The Yankee States, of which he is so staunch a
subject, are but a drop in the bucket. And we find in his book a
vast virgin ignorance of the life and prospects of America; every
view partial, parochial, not raised to the horizon; the moral
feeling proper, at the largest, to a clique of states; and the
whole scope and
atmosphere not American, but
merely Yankee. I will go far beyond him in reprobating the
assumption and the incivility of my countryfolk to
their cousins from beyond the sea; I grill in my blood over the
silly rudeness of our newspaper articles; and I do not know where
to look when I find myself in company with an American and see my
countrymen unbending to him as to a performing dog. But in the case
of Mr. Grant White example were better than precept. Wyoming is,
after all, more readily accessible to Mr. White than Boston to the
English, and the New England self-sufficiency no better justified
than the Britannic.
It is so, perhaps, in all
countries; perhaps in all, men are most ignorant of the foreigners
at home. John Bull is ignorant of the States; he is probably
ignorant of India; but considering his opportunities, he is far
more ignorant of countries nearer his own door. There is one
country, for instance—its frontier not so far from London, its
people closely akin, its language the same in all essentials with
the English—of which I will go bail he knows nothing. His ignorance
of the sister kingdom cannot be described; it can only be
illustrated by anecdote. I once travelled with a man of plausible
manners and good intelligence—a University man, as the phrase
goes—a man, besides, who had taken his degree in life and knew a
thing or two about the age we live in. We were deep in talk,
whirling between Peterborough and London; among other things, he
began to describe some piece of legal injustice he had recently
encountered, and I observed in my innocence that things were not so
in Scotland. “I beg your pardon,” said he, “this is a matter of
law.” He had never heard of the Scots law; nor did he choose to be
informed. The law was the same for the whole country, he told me
roundly; every child knew that. At last, to settle matters, I
explained to him that I was a member of a Scottish legal body, and
had stood the brunt of an examination in the very law in question.
Thereupon he looked me for a moment full in the face and dropped
the conversation. This is a monstrous instance, if you like, but it
does not stand alone in the experience of Scots.
England and Scotland differ,
indeed, in law, in history, in religion, in education, and in the
very look of nature and men’s faces, not always widely, but always
trenchantly. Many particulars that struck Mr. Grant White, a
Yankee, struck me, a Scot, no less forcibly; he and I felt
ourselves foreigners on many common provocations. A Scotchman may
tramp the better part of Europe and the United States, and
never again receive so vivid an impression of foreign travel and
strange lands and manners as on his first excursion into England.
The change from a hilly to a level country strikes him with
delighted wonder. Along the flat horizon there arise the frequent
venerable towers of churches. He sees at the end of airy vistas the
revolution of the windmill sails. He may go where he pleases in the
future; he may see Alps, and Pyramids, and lions; but it will be
hard to beat the pleasure of that moment. There are,
indeed, few merrier spectacles
than that of many windmills bickering together in a fresh breeze
over a woody country; their halting alacrity of movement, their
pleasant business, making bread all day with uncouth
gesticulations, their air, gigantically human, as of a creature
half alive, put a spirit of romance into the tamest landscape. When
the Scotch child sees them first he falls immediately in love; and
from that time forward windmills keep turning in his dreams. And
so, in their degree, with every feature of the life and landscape.
The warm, habitable age of towns and hamlets, the green, settled,
ancient look of the country; the lush hedgerows, stiles, and privy
path-ways in the fields; the sluggish, brimming rivers; chalk and
smock-frocks; chimes of bells and the rapid, pertly-sounding
English speech—they are all new to the curiosity; they are all set
to English airs in the child’s story that he tells himself at
night. The sharp edge of novelty wears off; the feeling is
scotched, but I doubt whether it is ever killed. Rather it keeps
returning, ever the more rarely and strangely, and even in scenes
to which you have been long accustomed suddenly awakes and gives a
relish to enjoyment or heightens the sense of isolation.
One thing especially continues
unfamiliar to the Scotchman’s eye—the domestic architecture, the
look of streets and buildings; the quaint, venerable age of many,
and the thin walls and warm colouring of all. We have, in Scotland,
far fewer ancient buildings, above all in country places; and those
that we have are all of hewn or harled masonry. Wood has been
sparingly used in their construction; the window-frames are sunken
in the wall, not flat to the front, as in England; the roofs are
steeper-pitched; even a hill farm will have a massy, square, cold
and permanent appearance. English houses, in comparison, have the
look of cardboard toys, such as a puff might shatter.
And to this the Scotchman never
becomes used. His eye can never rest consciously on one of these
brick houses—rickles of brick, as he might call them—or on one of
these flat-chested streets, but he is instantly reminded where he
is, and instantly travels back in fancy to his home. “This is no my
ain house; I ken by the biggin’ o’t.” And yet perhaps it is his
own, bought with his own money, the key of it long polished in his
pocket; but it has not yet, and never will be, thoroughly adopted
by his imagination; nor does he cease to remember that, in the
whole length and breadth of his native country, there was no
building even distantly resembling it.
But it is not alone in scenery
and architecture that we count England foreign. The constitution of
society, the very pillars of the empire, surprise and even pain us.
The dull, neglected peasant, sunk in matter, insolent, gross and
servile, makes a startling contrast with our own long-legged,
long-headed, thoughtful, Bible-quoting ploughman. A week or two in
such a place as Suffolk leaves the Scotchman gasping. It seems
incredible that within the boundaries of his own island a class
should have been thus forgotten. Even the educated and intelligent,
who hold our own opinions and speak in our own
words, yet seem to hold them with
a difference or, from another reason, and to speak on all things
with less interest and conviction. The first shock of English
society is like a cold plunge. It is possible that the Scot comes
looking for too much, and to be sure his first experiment will be
in the wrong direction. Yet surely his complaint is grounded;
surely the speech of Englishmen is too often lacking in generous
ardour, the better part of the man too often withheld from the
social commerce, and the contact of mind with mind evaded as with
terror. A Scotch peasant will talk more liberally out of his own
experience. He will not put you by with conversational counters and
small jests; he will give you the best of himself, like one
interested in life and man’s chief end. A Scotchman is vain,
interested in himself and others, eager for sympathy, setting forth
his thoughts and experience in the best light. The egoism of the
Englishman is self-contained. He does not seek to
proselytise.
He takes no interest in Scotland
or the Scotch, and, what is the unkindest cut
of all, he does not care to
justify his indifference. Give him the wages of going on and being
an Englishman, that is all he asks; and in the meantime, while you
continue to associate, he would rather not be reminded of your
baser origin. Compared with the grand, tree-like self-sufficiency
of his demeanour, the vanity and curiosity of the Scot seem uneasy,
vulgar, and immodest. That you should continually try to establish
human and serious relations, that you should actually feel an
interest in John Bull, and desire and invite a return of interest
from him, may argue something more awake and lively in your mind,
but it still puts you in the attitude of a suitor and a poor
relation. Thus even the lowest class of the educated English towers
over a Scotchman by the head and shoulders.
Different indeed is the
atmosphere in which Scotch and English youth begin to look about
them, come to themselves in life, and gather up those first
apprehensions which are the material of future thought and, to a
great extent, the rule of future conduct. I have been to school in
both countries, and I found, in the boys of the North, something at
once rougher and more tender, at once more reserve and more
expansion, a greater habitual distance chequered by glimpses of a
nearer intimacy, and on the whole wider extremes of temperament and
sensibility. The boy of the South seems more wholesome, but less
thoughtful; he gives himself to games as to a business, striving to
excel, but is not readily transported by imagination; the type
remains with me as cleaner in mind and body, more active, fonder of
eating, endowed with a lesser and a less romantic sense of life and
of the future, and more immersed in present circumstances. And
certainly, for one thing, English boys are younger for their age.
Sabbath observance makes a series of grim, and perhaps serviceable,
pauses in the tenor of Scotch boyhood—days of great stillness and
solitude for the rebellious mind, when in the dearth of books and
play, and in the intervals of studying the Shorter Catechism, the
intellect and
senses prey upon and test each
other. The typical English Sunday, with the huge midday dinner and
the plethoric afternoon, leads perhaps to different results. About
the very cradle of the Scot there goes a hum of metaphysical
divinity; and the whole of two divergent systems is summed up, not
merely speciously, in the two first questions of the rival
catechisms, the English tritely inquiring, “What is your name?” the
Scottish striking at the very roots of life with, “What is the
chief end of man?” and answering nobly, if obscurely, “To glorify
God and to enjoy Him for ever.” I do not wish to make an idol of
the Shorter Catechism; but the fact of such a question being asked
opens to us Scotch a great field of speculation; and the fact that
it is asked of all of us, from the peer to the ploughboy, binds us
more nearly together. No Englishman of Byron’s age, character, and
history would have had patience for long theological discussions on
the way to fight for Greece; but the daft Gordon blood and the
Aberdonian school-days kept their influence to the end. We have
spoken of the material conditions; nor need much more be said of
these: of the land lying everywhere more exposed, of the wind
always louder and bleaker, of the black, roaring winters, of the
gloom of high-lying, old stone cities, imminent on the windy
seaboard; compared with the level streets, the warm colouring of
the brick, the domestic quaintness of the architecture, among which
English children begin to grow up and come to themselves in life.
As the stage of the University approaches, the contrast becomes
more express. The English lad goes to Oxford or Cambridge; there,
in an ideal world of gardens, to lead a semi-scenic life, costumed,
disciplined and drilled by proctors. Nor is this to be regarded
merely as a stage of education; it is a piece of privilege besides,
and a step that separates him further from the bulk of his
compatriots. At an earlier age the Scottish lad begins his greatly
different experience of crowded class-rooms, of a gaunt quadrangle,
of a bell hourly booming over the traffic of the city to recall him
from the public-house where he has been lunching, or the streets
where he has been wandering fancy- free. His college life has
little of restraint, and nothing of necessary gentility. He will
find no quiet clique of the exclusive, studious and cultured; no
rotten borough of the arts. All classes rub shoulders on the greasy
benches. The raffish young gentleman in gloves must measure his
scholarship with the plain, clownish laddie from the parish school.
They separate, at the session’s end, one to smoke cigars about a
watering-place, the other to resume the labours of the field beside
his peasant family. The first muster of a college class in Scotland
is a scene of curious and painful interest; so many lads, fresh
from the heather, hang round the stove in cloddish embarrassment,
ruffled by the presence of their smarter comrades, and afraid of
the sound of their own rustic voices. It was in these early days, I
think, that Professor Blackie won the affection of his pupils,
putting these uncouth, umbrageous students at their ease with ready
human geniality. Thus, at least, we have a healthy democratic
atmosphere to breathe in while at
work; even when there is no cordiality there is always a
juxtaposition of the different classes, and in the competition of
study the intellectual power of each is plainly demonstrated to the
other. Our tasks ended, we of the North go forth as freemen into
the humming, lamplit city. At five o’clock you may see the last of
us hiving from the college gates, in the glare of the shop windows,
under the green glimmer of the winter sunset. The frost tingles in
our blood; no proctor lies in wait to intercept us; till the bell
sounds again, we are the masters of the world; and some portion of
our lives is always Saturday, la trêve de Dieu.
Nor must we omit the sense of the
nature of his country and his country’s history gradually growing
in the child’s mind from story and from observation. A Scottish
child hears much of shipwreck, outlying iron skerries, pitiless
breakers, and great sea-lights; much of heathery mountains, wild
clans, and hunted Covenanters. Breaths come to him in song of the
distant Cheviots and the ring of foraying hoofs. He glories in his
hard-fisted forefathers, of the iron girdle and the handful of
oat-meal, who rode so swiftly and lived so sparely on their raids.
Poverty, ill-luck, enterprise, and constant resolution are the
fibres of the legend of his country’s history. The heroes and kings
of Scotland have been tragically fated; the most marking incidents
in Scottish history—Flodden, Darien, or the Forty-five—were still
either failures or defeats; and the fall of Wallace and the
repeated reverses of the Bruce combine with the very smallness of
the country to teach rather a moral than a material criterion for
life. Britain is altogether small, the mere taproot of her extended
empire: Scotland, again, which alone the Scottish boy adopts in his
imagination, is but a little part of that, and avowedly cold,
sterile and unpopulous. It is not so for nothing. I once seemed to
have perceived in an American boy a greater readiness of sympathy
for lands that are great, and rich, and growing, like his own. It
proved to be quite otherwise: a mere dumb piece of boyish romance,
that I had lacked penetration to divine. But the error serves the
purpose of my argument; for I am sure, at least, that the heart of
young Scotland will be always touched more nearly by paucity of
number and Spartan poverty of life.
So we may argue, and yet the
difference is not explained. That Shorter Catechism which I took as
being so typical of Scotland, was yet composed in the city of
Westminster. The division of races is more sharply marked within
the borders of Scotland itself than between the countries. Galloway
and Buchan, Lothian and Lochaber, are like foreign parts; yet you
may choose a man from any of them, and, ten to one, he shall prove
to have the headmark of a Scot. A century and a half ago the
Highlander wore a different costume, spoke a different language,
worshipped in another church, held different morals, and obeyed a
different social constitution from his fellow-countrymen either of
the south or north. Even the English, it is recorded, did not
loathe the Highlander and the Highland costume as they were loathed
by the remainder
of the Scotch. Yet the Highlander
felt himself a Scot. He would willingly raid into the Scotch
lowlands; but his courage failed him at the border, and he regarded
England as a perilous, unhomely land. When the Black Watch, after
years of foreign service, returned to Scotland, veterans leaped out
and kissed the earth at Port Patrick. They had been in Ireland,
stationed among men of their own race and language, where they were
well liked and treated with affection; but it was the soil of
Galloway that they kissed at the extreme end of the hostile
lowlands, among a people who did not understand their speech, and
who had hated, harried, and hanged them since the dawn of history.
Last, and perhaps most curious, the sons of chieftains were often
educated on the continent of Europe. They went abroad speaking
Gaelic; they returned speaking, not English, but the broad dialect
of Scotland. Now, what idea had they in their minds when they thus,
in thought, identified themselves with their ancestral enemies?
What was the sense in which they were Scotch and not English, or
Scotch and not Irish? Can a bare name be thus influential on the
minds and affections of men, and a political aggregation blind them
to the nature of facts? The story of the Austrian Empire would seem
to answer, NO; the far more galling business of Ireland clenches
the negative from nearer home. Is it common education, common
morals, a common language or a common faith, that join men into
nations? There were practically none of these in the case we are
considering.
The fact remains: in spite of the
difference of blood and language, the Lowlander feels himself the
sentimental countryman of the Highlander. When they meet abroad,
they fall upon each other’s necks in spirit; even at home there is
a kind of clannish intimacy in their talk. But from his compatriot
in the south the Lowlander stands consciously apart. He has had a
different training; he obeys different laws; he makes his will in
other terms, is otherwise divorced and married; his eyes are not at
home in an English landscape or with English houses; his ear
continues to remark the English speech; and even though his tongue
acquire the Southern knack, he will still have a strong Scotch
accent of the mind.
CHAPTER II. SOME COLLEGE
MEMORIES
I am asked to write something (it
is not specifically stated what) to the profit and glory of my Alma
Mater; and the fact is I seem to be in very nearly the same case
with those who addressed me, for while I am willing enough to write
something, I know not what to write. Only one point I see, that if
I am to write at all, it should be of the University itself and my
own days under its shadow; of the things that are still the same
and of those that are already