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Incredible flavours, inspiring ingredients, simple techniques – learn how to master the mortar and pestle and bring new sophistication to your cooking with 65 delicious recipes. The mortar and pestle are ancient tools that no modern kitchen should be without – they're handy for everything from cracking peppercorns and bruising fresh herbs to making sauces such as pesto, as well as marinades, spice pastes and dry rubs. This book brings you an array of enticing recipes from around the world, all of which employ a mortar and pestle to bring creative seasoning and exciting new techniques to your home cooking. Beef can be made mouth-watering when prepared with an African Smoke Rub. Options for Lamb include a Pomegranate and Harissa seasoning, while, in the Poultry chapter, choose Jamaican Jerk Chicken or Portuguese Piri Piri Poussin. For those who love a lighter option and the enticing aroma of grilled Fish, try Spiced Red Snapper with Chermoula or Grilled Lobsters with flavoured butters. Vegetarian ideas include Grilled Courgette Flowers with Shiso Lemon Salt and Roasted Cauliflower with Walnut Romesco.
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MORTAR& PESTLE
MORTAR& PESTLE
65 DELICIOUS RECIPES FOR SAUCES, RUBS, MARINADES, AND MORE
Art director Leslie Harrington
Senior editor Gillian Haslam
Head of production Patricia Harrington
Editorial director Julia Charles
Publisher Cindy Richards
Indexer Hilary Bird
First published in 2021 by
Ryland Peters & Small
20–21 Jockey’s Fields, London WC1R 4BW
and
341 E 116th St, New York NY 10029
www.rylandpeters.com
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Recipe collection compiled by Julia Charles
Text copyright © Valerie Aikman-Smith, Ghillie Basan, Fiona Beckett, Jordan Bourke, Chloe Coker & Jane Montgomery, Philip Dennhardt & Kristin Jensen, Ursula Ferrigno, Amy Ruth Finegold, Mat Follas, Liz Franklin, Felipe Fuentes Cruz & Ben Fordham, Nicola Graimes, Dunja Gulin, Carol Hilker, Kathy Kordalis, Jenny Linford, Nitisha Patel, Louise Pickford, James Porter, Laura Santtini, Janet Sawyer, Laura Washburn-Hutton 2021
Design and photographs copyright © Ryland Peters & Small 2021
ISBN: 978-1-78879-349-0
E-ISBN: 978-1-78879-373-5
Printed in China
The authors’ moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.
A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.
US Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data has been applied for.
Notes:
• Both British (Metric) and American (Imperial plus US cups) are included in these recipes for your convenience, however it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.
• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.
• All eggs are medium (UK) or large (US). Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.
• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.
• To sterilize preserving jars, wash them in hot, soapy water and rinse in boiling water. Place in a large saucepan and cover with hot water. With the saucepan lid on, bring the water to a boil and continue boiling for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the hot water until just before they are to be filled. Invert the jars onto a clean dish towel to dry.
Sterilize the lids for 5 minutes, by boiling or according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Jars should be filled and sealed while they are still hot.
CONTENTS
Introduction
Sauces & Condiments
Snacks & Small Bites
Poultry & Game
Meat
Fish & Seafood
Vegetable Dishes & Salads
Index
Credits
INTRODUCTION
Incredible flavors, inspiring ingredients, simple techniques—learn how to master the mortar and pestle and bring new sophistication to your cooking with 65 delicious recipes. The mortar and pestle are ancient tools that no modern kitchen should be without—they’re handy for everything from cracking peppercorns and bruising fresh herbs to making sauces, marinades, spice pastes, and dry rubs. This book brings you an array of enticing recipes from around the world, all of which employ a mortar and pestle to bring creative seasoning and exciting new techniques to your home cooking.
The book begins with a chapter on sauces and condiments, with recipes for pestos, oils, mustards, relishes, and salsas—keep a stock of these in your fridge or pantry and you can add instant flavor and interest to the simplest of meals. A section on snacks and small bites follows, with hard-to-resist savory treats. The poultry and game chapter features an array of Asian curries with an intensity of heat ranging from hot and fiery to warming and spicy, plus new ways to cook chicken wings and tagine dishes flavored with North African harissa. In the meat chapter, you’ll find ideas to enliven weekend roasts, such as stuffed porchetta or spiced leg of lamb cooked in a salt crust, plus quick weekday meals. The fish and seafood chapter has an exciting selection of tempting recipes, from hot and sour fish soup to salt-cured gravadlax, fish tacos, and indulgent grilled lobsters. If you are looking for new ideas for side dishes and vegetarian meals, try the butternut squash tagine, miso borscht with gremolata, honey and ras el hanout roots, or shaved broccoli and buckwheat salad with dukkah.
Once you have learned how to make your own seasonings, sauces, rubs, and pastes using a mortar and pestle, you’ll never want to buy readymade again.
SAUCES & CONDIMENTS
PESTOS
Pestos make fantastic sauces for freshly cooked pasta, but can also add color and flavor to a wide variety of other dishes. Use them as you would a relish to spice up simple fritattas and quiches, serve them spread on crostini as attractive canapés, or spread them on fresh bread for a quick and tasty snack.
TRADITIONAL PESTO
¾ cup/100 g pine nuts
¾ cup/50 g finely grated Parmesan cheese
2 oz./50 g sheep’s milk cheese (or strong Cheddar cheese)
2 garlic cloves
leaves from a large bunch of fresh basil
olive oil, to drizzle
sea salt, to taste
WILD GARLIC PESTO
¾ cup/100 g hazelnuts
¾ cup/50 g finely grated Parmesan cheese
2 oz./50 g strong Cheddar cheese
3½ oz./100 g ramps/wild garlic flowers
first-press rapeseed oil, to drizzle
grated zest of 1 lemon
freshly squeezed juice of ½ lemon
sea salt, to taste
DILL & LEMON PESTO
¾ cup/100 g walnuts
3½ oz./100 g soft goats’ cheese
1 garlic clove
a large bunch of fresh dill
first-press rapeseed oil, to drizzle
grated zest and freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon
sea salt, to taste
KALE PESTO
¾ cup/100 g cashew nuts
1¼ cups/100 g finely grated Parmesan cheese
2 garlic cloves
a large bunch of fresh kale, stalks removed
olive oil, to drizzle
sea salt, to taste
EACH RECIPE MAKES 4–6 SERVINGS
For each pesto, put the nuts, a pinch of sea salt, the cheese, and garlic (but not the ramps/wild garlic flowers) in a mortar and pestle and pound to a smooth paste. Add the leaves and any zest and grind again. Add any lemon juice and oil as required to blend until a pesto is formed—it should have the consistency to hold together when it is pressed between spoons.
Although pestos are best served when freshly made, they will keep for up to 3 days, stored in an airtight container (preferably a screwtop jar) in the fridge. More pesto recipes overleaf.
ROASTED BEET PESTO
1 large roasted beet/beetroot
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
grated zest of ½ a lemon
freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon
a handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
a handful of arugula/rocket
1 garlic clove
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
¾ cup/100 g toasted walnuts
2 teaspoons capers
1 tablespoon cream cheese (optional)
WATERCRESS PESTO
a large handful of watercress (about 1 cup/50 g)
grated zest of 1 lemon,
freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste
⅓ cup/50 g blanched almonds, toasted
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
about ⅓ cup/20 g grated Parmesan cheese
1 garlic clove
salt and freshly ground black pepper
RICOTTA & HERB PESTO
9 oz./250 g ricotta (see page page 141 if you wish to make your own)
a large handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
a large handful of fresh mint leaves
grated zest of 1 lemon
freshly squeezed juice of 2 lemons
2 garlic cloves
2 fresh red chiles/chillies
salt and freshly ground black pepper
toasted pine nuts, for sprinkling
MUSHROOM & WALNUT PESTO
4½–5½ cups/320 g chestnut mushrooms, fried in 1 tablespoon olive oil
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons walnut oil
½ teaspoon dried rosemary
1 fresh red chile/chilli
freshly squeezed juice of ½ a lemon
a handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
¾ cup/100 g walnuts
EACH RECIPE MAKES 4–6 SERVINGS
For each pesto, finely chop all of the ingredients and pound them together in a large mortar and pestle until a pesto is formed—it should have the consistency to hold together when it is pressed between spoons.
Although pestos are best served when freshly made, they will keep for up to 3 days, stored in an airtight container (preferably a screwtop jar) in the fridge.
GREMOLATA
Gremolata is an Italian condiment that works with literally every pizza and you can use the leftovers to sprinkle on top of pasta or soups. It looks best when everything is chopped very finely and uniformly. Having said that, though, you can leave the parsley a bit bigger than the garlic for a more rustic look.
a large bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 garlic clove
zest of 1 lemon
MAKES ¾ CUP/30 G
Strip the parsley leaves off the stalks. Make sure the leaves are completely dry before chopping them as finely as you can. Transfer to the mortar.
Chop the garlic as finely as you can, otherwise you might bite on a big bit of raw garlic, which isn’t very nice. Add to the mortar with the lemon zest, then blend everything together with the pestle until well combined. Store any leftovers in an airtight container in the fridge for a day or two.
POUNDED PARSLEY & GARLIC OIL
When using a mortar and pestle, don’t be afraid to make a lot of noise! The more you pound the parsley, garlic, and chile/chilli, the better the oil will taste because you’re releasing more of the volatile aromatics than if you just chop them.
4–6 heaped tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 small garlic clove
½ teaspoon finely diced fresh chile/chilli or hot red pepper/chilli flakes (optional)
pinch of fine sea salt
½–¾ cup/120–180 ml good-quality olive oil
MAKES ½–¾ CUP/125–180 ML
Put the parsley, garlic, chile/chilli (if using), and salt in a mortar and pestle. Pound together really, really well, until it forms a paste, then pound some more for good measure before mixing in ½ cup/120 ml of the olive oil.
Check the consistency and decide if you want to add some or all of the remaining oil. Pour the oil into a sterilized jar (see page page 4). Seal the jar and store the oil in the fridge for up to 1 month. It might turn cloudy from the cold, but bring it back to room temperature before you want to use it and it will turn clear again.
PROVENÇAL OLIVE RELISH
This tapenade is Provence in a jar! The olives are drenched in oil and spiced with capers and salty anchovies. It works perfectly on bruschetta, pizzas, crudités, and pickled eggs, or lightly spread on chicken before roasting in the oven..
2 cups/200 g pitted/stoned Kalamata olives, drained
12 anchovy fillets
¼ cup/40 g capers, drained
grated zest and freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon
¼ cup/60 ml extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to cover
cracked black pepper
MAKES 3 CUPS (24 OZ.)/700 ML
Place all the ingredients in a mortar and pestle and blend until the mixture is almost smooth but still has some texture. Season with pepper.
Pack the tapenade into sterilized glass jars (see page page 4) and drizzle with a little olive oil to cover the surface. Seal with an airtight lid and store in the fridge for up to 6 months.
LEMON & DILL MUSTARD
Lemon and dill lend a delicate flavor to all things, especially mustard. Add a spoonful to pan-fried salmon to make a zingy accompanying sauce, or stir a spoonful into mayonnaise or crème fraîche to serve with burgers.
1 cup/150 g yellow mustard seeds
1 cup/235 ml lemon verbena vinegar
¼ cup/85 g clear honey
grated zest and freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon
¼ cup/10 g fresh dill, roughly chopped
a pinch of sea salt
MAKES 2 CUPS (16 OZ.)/475 ML
Dry-roast the mustard seeds in a hot skillet/frying pan over a high heat for 2 minutes. Place the roasted seeds and vinegar in a ceramic bowl and set aside to soak for 12–14 hours or overnight.
Put the soaked mustard seeds, honey, zest, lemon juice, and dill in a mortar and pestle and blend until smooth. Add a little more vinegar if the mix is a little thick. Season with salt.
Pour into sterilized glass jars (see page 4) and screw the lids on tightly. Store in the fridge for up to 2 months.
MÉDOC MUSTARD
Médoc is a red wine from the Bordeaux region of France, and is a good, robust wine to use in mustards. You can really use any good red wine. Don’t be tempted to use a cheap one—it won’t work.
½ cup/75 g yellow mustard seeds
½ cup/75 g brown mustard seeds
¾ cup/180 ml Médoc or other red wine
¼ cup/60 ml red wine vinegar
¼ cup/85 g clear honey
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
a pinch of sea salt
MAKES 2 CUPS (16 OZ.)/475 ML
Dry-roast the mustard seeds in a hot skillet/frying pan over a high heat for 2 minutes. Place the roasted seeds and vinegar in a ceramic bowl and soak overnight.
Put the soaked mustard seeds, wine, vinegar, honey, and garlic in a mortar and pestle and blend until smooth. Add a little more vinegar if the mix is a little thick. Season with salt.
Pour into sterilized glass jars (see page 4) and screw the lids on tightly. Store in the fridge for up to 2 months.
ROSEMARY & THYME MUSTARD
Rosemary and thyme bring a wonderful Mediterranean herbal flavor to mustard. Try spreading this mustard over a whole chicken before roasting to add flavor to the skin.
1 cup/150 g yellow mustard seeds
1 cup/235 ml apple cider vinegar
¼ cup/85 g clear honey
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
a pinch of sea salt
MAKES 2 CUPS (16 OZ.)/475 ML
Dry-roast the mustard seeds in a hot skillet/frying pan over a high heat for 2 minutes. Place the roasted seeds and vinegar in a ceramic bowl and soak overnight.
Put the soaked mustard seeds, honey, and rosemary and thyme leaves in a mortar and pestle and blend until smooth. Add a little more vinegar if the mix is a little thick. Season with salt.
Pour into sterilized glass jars (see page 4) and screw the lids on tightly. Store in the fridge for up to 2 months.
WHOLEGRAIN MUSTARD
Good wholegrain mustards can be hard to find and also a little expensive. This is really good basic recipe that you can add wines, spices, and herbs to. It’s particularly good on a steak sandwich.
½ cup/75 g yellow mustard seeds
½ cup/75 g brown mustard seeds
1 cup/235 ml red wine vinegar
¼ cup/85 g clear honey
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
a pinch of sea salt
MAKES 2 CUPS (16 OZ.)/475 ML
Dry-roast the mustard seeds in a hot skillet/frying pan over a high heat for 2 minutes. Place the roasted seeds and vinegar in a ceramic bowl and soak overnight.
Put the soaked mustard seeds, honey, and garlic in a mortar and pestle and pound until you have a grainy mustard. Add a little more vinegar if the mix is a little thick. Season with salt.