Pies Glorious Pies E-Book

Maxine Clark

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2020

Seitenzahl: 169

Beschreibung

From comforting classics to contemporary takes, discover why pies are the perfect way to create luscious, fresh and seasonal dishes that everyone is sure to enjoy.

Leseprobe

PIES GLORIOUS PIES

PIES GLORIOUS PIES

Mouth-watering recipes for delicious pies

Maxine Clark

photography by Steve Pointer

Dedicated to the memory of Norman Lee (1927–2012), artist, raconteur, bon viveur and a man who loved a Scotch ‘peh’.

Maxine Clark is a leading food stylist, writer and a gifted cooking teacher. After she gained a Distinction from Leith’s in London, she went on to teach there after graduating. She has also taught gourmet cookery holidays at Alistair Little’s Tasting Place and Stirred Travel in Sicily, Tuscany and Veneto. Her work regularly appears in magazines and newspapers, particularly in Food and Travel and BBC Good Food. For Ryland Peters & Small she has also written Flavours of Tuscany, Risotto and Craft Pizza.

Steve Painter is a photographer, prop stylist, designer and art director in the seaside town of Hastings. For Ryland Peters & Small he has designed the number one bestselling Hummingbird Bakery and the award-winning How to Make Bread, which he also photographed. Other titles he has worked on include Vegetable Perfection, Sheet Pan Cooking and Piled High Potatoes.

DESIGN, PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING Steve Painter

EDITOR Rebecca Woods

PRODUCTION MANAGER Cordana Simakovic

ART DIRECTOR Leslie Harrington

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Julia Charles

IHDEXER Hilary Bird

FOOD STYUST Lucy McKelvie

FOOD STYUST’S ASSISTAHT Ellie Jarvis

First published in 2012

This revised edition published in 2020 by Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 E 116th St

New York, NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © Maxine Clark 2012, 2020

Design and photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2012, 2020

Printed in China

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

ISBN: 978-1-78879-237-0

E-ISBN: 978-1-78879-310-0

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

US Library of Congress CIP data has been applied for.

NOTES

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• All vegetables are medium sized unless otherwise specified.

• All eggs are medium (UK) or large (US), unless otherwise specified. It is recommended that free-range, organic eggs be used whenever possible.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. All ovens work slightly differently. We recommend using an oven thermometer and suggest you consult the maker’s handbook for any special instructions, particularly if you are cooking in a fan-assisted/convection oven, as you will need to adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

EQUIPMENT

PIE PRACTICALITIES

TECHNIQUES

EVERYDAY PIES

POSH PIES

PORTABLE PIES

SWEET PIES

INDEX

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

INTRODUCTION

I simply can’t remember life without a pie. Not that I was weaned on pies, but pies were, and still are, very much part of life here in Scotland where I was born and now live. There’s something truly comforting and comfortable about a pie – a secret filling nestling inside a golden crust. Watch someone bite into a pie and they will inevitably make some sort of pleasing facial gesture and look at the pie they have just bitten into to examine its glorious contents!

Of course there are a million different pies out in the big wide world – single-crust, double-crust, raised, cold, hot, small, large, with potato topping instead of pastry. Every country has their own variations of a pastry-enclosed filling, be it an Indian samosa, an Italian torta, a Spanish or Mexican empanada, a Scotch bridie, an English steak and kidney pie with mash and liquor, or an American pot or plate pie.

My first memories of pies were the little rhubarb pies sitting in ranks in the baker’s window that I passed every day on my way home from school. The pastry was a hot-water crust and the filling quite tart, but they were dusted in a thick coating of sugar and I would buy one and munch it on the bus, showering sugar all over my uniform! Then there was my mum’s apple pie: single crust and baked in her grandmother’s round enamel dish, with a crackling sugary crust on top. And my brother and sister and I just couldn’t wait to have our Fray Bentos Steak and Kidney Pie – we thought that a pie in a can was the height of chic!

Since then my tastes have broadened somewhat. Cornish holidays in the late 60s were a pie eye-opener, from Elizabeth Brown’s insanely deep and delicious apple pie, served in the restaurant of the St Mawes Hotel, to Doris Tiddy’s legendary pasties (see page 92). After tasting these, there was no going back. I realized the beauty and diversity of a well-made pastry crust and just how delicious a filling could be – however simple the ingredients! Then at Leiths School of Food and Wine came the revelation of executing a hot-water crust and ‘raising’ a pie – well there was now no going back, and pies became an essential part of life.

Why? I think it’s really the pastry. I love it and love making it in all its diverse forms. I took a while to master it, but once it clicked a whole new world of possibilities opened up. So follow my hints and tips learned and gathered over years of pastry making and you simply won’t go wrong. From Basic Shortcrust or Suet Crust, to French Rich Butter Pastry, they all have their purposes and functions. Some make a better top crust than others, some are meant to stand upright and encase a filling whereas others are designed to puff up and melt in the mouth. All these pastries are made by mixing flour with either only butter or a mix of butter and lard or olive oil or suet. Each has a different flavour and texture, depending on the fat and flour used or the pastry method followed, to perfectly complement the filling hidden inside.

You can bake almost anything in a pie – from four and twenty blackbirds to unfortunate barber-shop customers. All will taste the better for a pastry crust. The secret with pies is not to make the filling too wet or it will ooze out of the pastry and make it go soggy before it has time to crisp up (and I have a good ‘waterproofing’ technique using egg wash to prevent this). Take a look at Pie Practicalities (see page 13) and Equipment (see page 9) before you start for tips on achieving perfect pies for every occasion.

The book is divided simply into four chapters: Everyday Pies, Posh Pies, Portable Pies and Sweet Pies. Some are very easy, others require a little more skill and patience, and other more complicated pies just require careful time-planning.

I have enjoyed writing this book immensely, and it is so satisfying to see a lot of old friends appearing between the pages. I hope you find inspiration here to bake a pie or two… and did I say that they make very, very welcome gifts? Eyes will light up!

EQUIPMENT

For making everyday pies, no special equipment is necessary except the basics: a cool work surface, kitchen scales and a bowl for making pastry, plus a pie plate, rolling pin, sharp knife, baking ‘beans’, clingfilm/plastic wrap and maybe a pastry brush. However, if you become a serious pie-maker and bake pies regularly, you may like to invest in a special mould or pan, a wooden pie dolly for individual raised pies, pie funnels, pastry cutters and a lattice roller or pastry wheel

FOR PASTRY-MAKING

A large cool work surface (a marble slab if you are lucky, but make sure it is big enough) is essential for making a pie. Never roll out pastry in a cramped area or you will risk rolling unevenly or stretching the pastry. The surface should be cool (not next to the hob/stove or over a fridge) to prevent the pastry becoming soft and unmanageable.

Accurate weighing scales or measuring cups to get the quantities and proportions correct.

Measuring spoons for the accurate measuring necessary with all baking. Recipes in this book require all measurements to be level.

Large and small heatproof measuring jugs/pitchers. These are dual purpose – for accurate measuring of liquid ingredients, and suitability for the microwave.

Fine and medium sieves/strainers are essential for sifting all flour to aerate it and remove any lumps, leading to a lighter pastry. Icing/confectioners’ sugar should always be sifted in a fine sieve/strainer – any lumps will never beat out.

Assorted mixing bowls – I find I use light plastic bowls or wide stainless steel ones for pastry-making, but ceramic or Pyrex are perfectly suitable. The important thing is to make sure the bowl is big enough for the job – you want plenty of room to move your hands and the ingredients when rubbing in. This, too, aerates the pastry.

A food processor is a must if you have hot hands, or if you think you can’t make pastry! It removes the fear of butter melting into the flour, because it mixes fat and flour so quickly and evenly. Just remember to pulse the machine when adding liquids so that the dough will not be overworked and become tough.

A flour sifter/shaker is not absolutely necessary, but it does stop you adding too much extra flour to the work surface or pastry. Too much flour destroys the proportions and affects taste and texture.

Several pastry brushes so that you always have a dry one to hand for brushing excess flour off pastry, and one for brushing on liquids and glazes.

A pastry/dough scraper for scraping the dough off a work surface, and for cleaning off all the messy bits. Indispensable.

A palette knife can be substituted for a pastry scraper, but is best used for chopping in the flour in French pastries such as French Butter Pie Pastry (see page 29).

Microplane graters were a revelation to me, and once acquired, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without them. There are three essential grades – fine, medium and coarse. Fine is perfect for grating lemons, nutmeg, garlic, ginger and Parmesan. A medium grain is good for other cheeses and general grating, while coarse is perfect for grating shards of butter into pastry, such as for Cheat’s Puff Pastry (see page 27).

A pastry blender is something I have used only occasionally, but some cooks swear by it. It is a series of thin metal loops connected to a handle, which you use to cut the fat into the flour. It prevents ‘hot hand syndrome’ and aerates the pastry. I prefer an old round-bladed cutlery knife (or two – one in each hand) to cut in the fat.

All-purpose clingfilm/plastic wrap or plastic bags are absolutely necessary to wrap pastry before chilling or freezing, protecting it and preventing it from drying out.

Baking beans are essential for weighting down the pastry once the pan is lined. They will stop the pastry collapsing as it cooks when baking blind. Although you can buy smart ceramic baking beans, I prefer to use dried beans, rice, lentils and pasta or a mix of all of them – they can be used over and over again, and cost next to nothing.

A bottle of ice-cold water should always be in the fridge before you start, so that you will have chilled water to hand for pastry-making.

CHOOSING PIE PLATES AND PANS

Note: I do not use non-stick or silicone bakeware for pie-making – I find that the pastry ‘sweats’ and never crisps up sufficiently. Likewise, I do not cook pastry in Pyrex or ceramic dishes for the same reason – they do not conduct the heat as well as metal does and so the pastry just doesn’t cook properly.

Metal or enamel pie plates with a rim to take a good crust – both deep and shallow – are essential for tarts that need a decorative edge. Traditional British pie plates are made of enamel, the inside is gently rounded and the lip is quite wide (about 2.5 cm/1 inch). American pie plates tend to be deeper with a narrower lip and are usually made of enamel or metal.

Assorted round springform pans are great for deeper pies as they are easy to remove once cooked.

Individual pie dishes come in various shapes and sizes and are often made from traditional glazed pottery. The deep ones are perfect for a top-crust pie with a generous filling.

Metal loaf pans make pies that can be portioned very neatly. They make a good substitute for the fancy raised pie moulds, which are pricey and hard to find.

Traditional raised pie moulds make pies look fabulous if you can get hold of them. They are hinged or cleverly clip together.

Bun, patty or even muffin pans are wonderful for making small pies in bulk – look for ones with straight sides (mini Victoria sponge pans).

With the current pie-loving trend, new pie pans are appearing all the time – keep an eye open in your local cookshop. However, many pans or moulds can be adapted to cooking pies – just think creatively!

ROLLING OUT, LINING AND SHAPING

Long straight rolling pin (wooden or nylon) with no handles. (I find that handles spoil the even rolling action of the pin.) Always keep your rolling pin somewhere where the surface won’t be damaged by other kitchen utensils (i.e. not in the utensil drawer!)

Sharp cook’s knife or thin-bladed filleting knife for trimming – it must be razor-sharp to cut through the pastry and not drag it.

Large serrated knife for trimming and slicing – this stays nice and sharp and is good for cutting baked pie crusts.

A fork for pricking bases and decorating.

Assorted sizes of palette knife – a large one will help to loosen rolled-out pastry from a work surface, a small one will lift little pastry circles into a tart pan and a tiny one will lift decorations onto the tart edge.

A pie dolly is useful if you are a serious raised pie-maker! However, any cylindrical object (such as a jam jar, pot, can etc.) can be used instead.

Clingfilm/plastic wrap, kitchen foil and non-stick baking parchment are indispensible for wrapping pastry, lining pans and baking blind. You can also roll pastry directly onto non-stick baking parchment, then you can lift it up and place it over the pan without fear of stretching it. It can help keep the shape of a hand-raised pie while it cooks when tied firmly around the middle with a piece of string.

DECORATING PASTRY

Pastry cutters of all types are great for customizing your pies and tarts. Try leaf or animal cutters to create decorative edges and tops.

Pastry wheels make short work of cutting straight lines and give pretty decorative edges.

A small sharp knife will help to cut patterns on decorations.

Forks of varying sizes for marking edges.

A metal ruler helps mark out pastry for cutting.

Thick cardboard and a craft knife for making your own templates for pastry decorations.

A lattice roller can make a professional-looking lattice top for pies. It acts like a roller, cutting out a lattice, which is then opened up like a web to drape over a tart. It lacks the homemade look, however!

BAKING AND COOLING PIES

An electronic timer is one of my most essential pieces of kit. You cannot possibly cook pastry and not burn it without one!

Oven gloves are a must; no damp dish towels to burn your hands!

Heavy baking sheet – important to put one into the oven as it preheats, especially if not baking blind, as it will help conduct the heat through the base of the pan and cook the pastry.

Large fish slice/spatula or cake-lifter (like a small baking sheet with a handle) will help to lift the pie or tart onto a plate without it falling to bits.

Wire or metal cooling racks in assorted sizes.

Serrated palette knife is useful to slice the pie or tart then serve it or lift onto a plate.

PIE PRACTICALITIES

For perfect results every time, follow these simple yet effective tips garnered from a lifetime of pastry and pie making. I only wish someone had told me these when I began to make pastry – they would have prevented my initial disasters and spared me a lot of frustration! I have hot hands, and using the food processor changed the way I make pastry forever! It cannot be emphasized enough that pastry likes a cool environment and not too much handling. Read on and digest and you will become a master pieman/woman!

• When making pastry, water/liquid quantities are never exact as there are so many variables. A good rule of thumb is to add slightly less than is stated, as you can always add more, but too much and the dough is lost!

• There is no need to grease a pan before lining. All pastry has fat in it and will, in effect, be non-stick. It is the filling leaking out over the edges or through holes that makes pastry stick, so make sure the pastry is completely sealed.

• If in doubt, chill, chill, chill! Raw pastry will benefit from thorough chilling at every stage – I like to freeze pastry-lined pans before baking blind as this really sets the pastry, therefore holding its shape. Freeze the unbaked pie crust after lining the pan with pastry – even 15 minutes will do (you can keep the uncooked pie crust frozen and wrapped for up to 3 months). This gives the pastry a good rest and makes the pie or tart easy to line with kitchen foil or clingfilm/plastic wrap and baking beans when baking blind. Work quickly and pop it into the oven before it thaws, and you will have a perfect pie crust!

• Use a rolling pin to lift a pastry lid over the pie to prevent stretching the pastry.

• Always chill a double-crust pie before baking.

• Always glaze then chill a pie before making any marks on the pastry – it will be easier to do and the pattern will remain distinct.

• Always chill a pie before making slits in the pastry – making the slits will be easier.

• Always place a pie on a baking sheet before baking (use a cake-lifter to slide it in and out of the oven). This will make it easier to lift and prevent any spillage burning on the bottom of the oven.

• Casserole-style fillings can be made in advance and stored in the fridge for a couple of days, or even frozen. Not only is this added convenience, but it also allows the flavours in the filling time to develop.

• To avoid a soggy pie bottom, make sure cooked fillings are completely cold when filling the pie. To be absolutely sure, when baking blind, brush the base of the pie with beaten egg after removing the baking beans and returning to the oven to dry off. This will create a ‘waterproof’ base. My mother always spread 2 tablespoons semolina flour mixed with sugar over the base of her apple pie to absorb cooking juices and prevent ‘soggy bottom’ – this was learned from watching her grandmother, a professional baker.

• To glaze the sides of a pie baked in a mould or pan with sides: once cooked, remove it from the oven and allow to rest for 10 minutes, remove the sides, brush with milk or beaten egg and return to the oven to set the glaze. Cover the top of the pie with kitchen foil to prevent it becoming darker than the sides.

• I usually set fan ovens 20 degrees lower than regular convection ovens as they tend to run very hot. Consult the manufacturer’s handbook. This is very important when baking.

TECHNIQUES

ROLLING THE PASTRY

• Pastry is easier to roll out if shaped into a ball, then flattened to a thick disk (1)