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Digby was a natural writer, as entertaining as instructive. Many of the recipes are for drinks, particularly of meads or metheglins, but the culinary material provides a remarkable conspectus of accepted practice among court circles in Restoration England, with extra details supplied from Digby's European travels. The editors also include the inventory of Digby's own kitchen in his London house, discovered amongst papers now deposited in the British Library; and they have provided a few modern interpretations of Digby's recipes.
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Frontispiece: Sir Kenelm Digby, by Anthony van Dyck (Iconography, 1645). Photograph by courtesy of the British Museum.
This edition published in 2010, by Prospect Books, Allaleigh House, Blackawton, Totnes, Devon TQ9 7DL.
The hardback edition was previously published by Prospect Books in 1997.
The text is that of the first edition, published by H. Brome, at the Star in Little Britain, London, 1669.
© 1997, editorial and introductory matter, Jane Stevenson and Peter Davidson.
The editors assert their right to be identified as editors of this work in accordance with the Copyright, Designs & Patents Act 1988.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright holders.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data: A catalogue entry of this book is available from the British Library.
ISBN 978-1-903018-70-5 ePub ISBN: 978-1-909248-21-2. PRC ISBN: 978-1-909248-22-9.
Printed and bound in Great Britain by the Short Run Press, Exeter.
Table of Receipts
Acknowledgements
Introduction
The text
To the Reader
The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Opened
The Table
The appendices and supporting material
Appendix I: Notes of textual variations and supplements from George Hartman, The True Preserver and Restorer of Health…
Appendix II: Biographies of the donors of receipts and other persons noticed in the text
Appendix III: Extracts from British Library Add ms 38,175, ff.48r–50v, an inventory of Digby’s London house
Appendix IV: Some receipts, modernized
Glossary
Index
A RECEIPT TO MAKE METHEGLIN AS IT IS MADE AT LIEGE, COMMUNICATED BY MR. MASILLON
WHITE METHEGLIN OF MY LADY HUNGERFORD: WHICH IS EXCEEDINGLY PRAISED
SOME NOTES ABOUT HONEY
MR. CORSELLISES ANTWERP MEATH
TO MAKE EXCELLENT MEATHE
A WEAKER, BUT VERY PLEASANT, MEATHE
AN EXCELLENT WHITE MEATHE
A RECEIPT TO MAKE A TUN OF METHEGLIN
THE COUNTESS OF BULLINGBROOK’S WHITE METHEGLIN
MR. WEBBES MEATH
MY OWN CONSIDERATIONS FOR MAKING OF MEATHE
SACK WITH CLOVE-GILLY FLOWERS
METHEGLIN COMPOSED BY MY SELF OUT OF SUNDRY RECEIPTS
MY LADY GOWERS WHITE MEATHE USED AT SALISBURY
SIR THOMAS GOWER’S METHEGLIN FOR HEALTH
METHEGLIN FOR TASTE AND COLOUR
AN EXCELLENT WAY OF MAKING WHITE METHEGLIN
ANOTHER WAY OF MAKING WHITE METHEGLIN
ANOTHER WAY
TO MAKE WHITE METHEGLIN
STRONG MEAD
A RECEIPT FOR MAKING OF MEATH
MY LORD HOLLIS HYDROMEL
A RECEIPT FOR WHITE METHEGLIN
HYDROMEL AS I MADE IT WEAK FOR THE QUEEN MOTHER
SEVERAL WAYS OF MAKING METHEGLIN
MY LADY MORICES MEATH
MY LADY MORICE HER SISTER MAKES HER’S THUS:
TO MAKE WHITE MEATH
SIR WILLIAM PASTON’S MEATHE
ANOTHER PLEASANT MEATHE OF SIR WILLIAM PASTON’S
ANOTHER WAY OF MAKING MEATH
SIR BAYNAM THROCKMORTON’S MEATHE.
TO MAKE WHITE METHEGLIN
A RECEIPT FOR MAKING OF MEATH
MY LADY BELLASSISES MEATH
ANOTHER METHEGLIN
MR. PIERCE’S EXCELLENT WHITE METHEGLIN
AN EXCELLENT WAY TO MAKE METHEGLIN, CALLED THE LIQUOR OF LIFE, WITH THESE FOLLOWING INGREDIENTS
TO MAKE GOOD METHEGLIN
TO MAKE WHITE METHEGLIN OF SIR JOHN FORTESCUE
A RECEIPT FOR MEATHE
MY LORD GORGE HIS MEATHE
THE LADY VERNON’S WHITE METHEGLIN
SEVERAL SORTS OF MEATH, SMALL AND STRONG
TO MAKE MEATH
SIR JOHN ARUNDEL’S WHITE MEATH
TO MAKE METHEGLIN
TO MAKE WHITE MEATH
TO MAKE A MEATH GOOD FOR THE LIVER AND LUNGS
TO MAKE WHITE METHEGLIN
A VERY GOOD MEATH
TO MAKE WHITE METHEGLIN
A MOST EXCELLENT METHEGLIN
TO MAKE WHITE METHEGLIN OF THE COUNTESS OF DORSET
ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE WHITE METHEGLIN
A RECEIPT TO MAKE GOOD MEATH
ANOTHER TO MAKE MEATH
ANOTHER RECIPE
TO MAKE METHEGLIN
ANOTHER SORT OF METHEGLIN
MY LORD HERBERT’S MEATH
ANOTHER WHITE MEATH
TO MAKE METHEGLIN
TO MAKE SMALL METHEGLIN
TO MAKE METHEGLIN
AN EXCELLENT METHEGLIN
TO MAKE WHITE MEATHE
ANOTHER TO MAKE MEATHE
ANOTHER VERY GOOD WHITE MEATH
TO MAKE WHITE METHEGLIN
TO MAKE WHITE MEATH
TO MAKE METHEGLIN
ANOTHER SORT OF MEATH
TO MAKE VERY GOOD METHEGLIN
TO MAKE MEATH
TO MAKE WHITE MEATH
TO MAKE SMALL WHITE MEATH
A RECEIPT TO MAKE METHEGLIN
TO MAKE METHEGLIN
MEATH FROM THE MUSCOVIAN AMBASSADOUR’S STEWARD
TO MAKE MEATH
A RECEIPT TO MAKE WHITE MEATH
TO MAKE METHEGLIN
TO MAKE HONEY DRINK
THE EARL OF DENBIGH’S METHEGLIN
TO MAKE MEATH
TO MAKE METHEGLIN
ANOTHER MEATH
ANOTHER
ANOTHER
ANOTHER RECEIPT
TO MAKE METHEGLIN THAT LOOKS LIKE WHITE-WINE
TO MAKE WHITE METHEGLIN
TO MAKE A SMALL METHEGLIN
TO MAKE MEATH
METHEGLIN OR SWEET DRINK OF MY LADY STUART
A METHEGLIN FOR THE COLICK AND STONE OF THE SAME LADY
A RECEIPT FOR METHEGLIN OF MY LADY WINDEBANKE
ANOTHER OF THE SAME LADY
TO MAKE METHEGLIN
MEATH WITH RAISINS
MORELLO WINE
CURRANTS-WINE
SCOTCH ALE FROM MY LADY HOLMBEY
TO MAKE ALE DRINK QUICK
TO MAKE CIDER
A VERY PLEASANT DRINK OF APPLES
SIR PAUL NEALE’S WAY OF MAKING CIDER
DOCTOR HARVEY’S PLEASANT WATER CIDER, WHEREOF HE USED TO DRINK MUCH, MAKING IT HIS ORDINARY DRINK
ALE WITH HONEY
SMALL ALE FOR THE STONE
APPLE DRINK WITH SUGAR, HONEY, &c
TO MAKE STEPPONI
WEAK HONEY-DRINK
MR. WEBB’S ALE AND BRAGOT
THE COUNTESS OF NEWPORT’S CHERRY WINE
STRAWBERRY WINE
TO MAKE WINE OF CHERRIES ALONE
TO MAKE A SACK POSSET
ANOTHER
A PLAIN ORDINARY POSSET
A SACK POSSET
A BARLEY SACK POSSET
MY LORD OF CARLILE’S SACK-POSSET
A SYLLABUB
A GOOD DISH OF CREAM
AN EXCELLENT SPANISH CREAM
ANOTHER CLOUTED CREAM
MY LORD OF S. ALBAN’S CRESME FOUETTEE
TO MAKE THE CREAM CURDS
TO MAKE CLOUTED CREAM
TO MAKE A WHIP SYLLABUB
TO MAKE A PLAIN SYLLABUB
CONCERNING POTAGES
PLAIN SAVOURY ENGLISH POTAGE
POTAGE DE BLANC DE CHAPON
TO MAKE SPINAGE-BROTH
ORDINARY POTAGE
BARLEY POTAGE
STEWED BROTH
AN ENGLISH POTAGE
ANOTHER POTAGE
PORTUGAL BROTH, AS IT WAS MADE FOR THE QUEEN
NOURISSANT POTAGE DE SANTÉ
POTAGE DE SANTÉ
POTAGE DE SANTÉ
POTAGE DE SANTÉ
TEA WITH EGGS
NOURISHING BROTH
GOOD NOURISHING POTAGE
WHEATEN FLOMMERY
PAP OF OAT-MEAL
PANADO
BARLEY PAP
OAT-MEAL PAP. SIR JOHN COLLADON
RICE AND ORGE MONDÉ
SMALLAGE GRUEL
ABOUT WATER GRUEL
AN EXCELLENT AND WHOLESOME WATER-GRUEL WITH WOOD-SORREL AND CURRANTS
THE QUEENS BARLEY-CREAM
PRESSIS NOURISSANT
BROTH AND POTAGE
PAN COTTO
MY LORD LUMLEY’S PEASE-PORAGE
BROTH FOR SICK AND CONVALESCENT PERSONS
AN EXCELLENT POSSET
PEASE OF THE SEEDY BUDS OF TULIPS
BOILED RICE DRY
MARROW SOPS WITH WINE
CAPON IN WHITE-BROTH
TO BUTTER EGGS WITH CREAM
TO MAKE COCK-ALE
TO MAKE PLAGUE-WATER
ANOTHER PLAGUE-WATER
TO MAKE RASBERY-WINE
TO KEEP QUINCE ALL THE YEAR GOOD
TO MAKE A WHITE-POT
TO MAKE AN HOTCHPOT
ANOTHER HOTCHPOT
TO STEW BEEF
ANOTHER TO STEW BEEF
TO STEW A BREAST OF VEAL
SAUCE OF HORSE RADISH
THE QUEENS HOTCHPOT FROM HER ESCUYER DE CUISINE, MR. LA MONTAGUE
A SAVOURY AND NOURISHING BOILED CAPON DEL CONTE DI TRINO, À MILANO
AN EXCELLENT BAKED PUDDING
MY LADY OF PORTLAND’S MINCED PYES
ANOTHER WAY OF MAKING EXCELLENT MINCED PYES OF MY LADY PORTLANDS
MINCED PYES
TO ROST FINE MEAT
SAVOURY COLLOPS OF VEAL
A FRICACEE OF LAMB-STONES, OR SWEET-BREADS, OR CHICKEN, OR VEAL, OR MUTTON
A NOURISHING HACHY
EXCELLENT MARROW-SPINAGE-PASTIES
TO PICKLE CAPONS MY LADY PORTLAND’S WAY
VERY GOOD SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGES OR CHICKEN
TO MAKE MINCED PYES
TO MAKE A FRENCH BARLEY POSSET
TO MAKE PUFF-PAST
TO MAKE A PUDDING WITH PUFF-PAST
TO MAKE PEAR-PUDDINGS
MARROW-PUDDINGS
TO MAKE RED DEAR
TO MAKE A SHOULDER OF MUTTON LIKE VENISON
TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF
TO BOIL SMOAKED FLESH
A PLAIN BUT GOOD SPANISH OGLIA
VUOVA LATTATE
VUOVA SPERSA
TO MAKE EXCELLENT BLACK-PUDDINGS
A RECEIPT TO MAKE WHITE PUDDINGS
TO MAKE AN EXCELLENT PUDDING
SCOTCH COLLOPS
TO ROST WILD-BOAR
PYES
BAKED VENISON
AN EXCELLENT WAY OF MAKING MUTTON STEAKS
EXCELLENT GOOD COLLOPS
BLACK PUDDINGS
TO MAKE PITH PUDDINGS
RED-HERRINGS BROYLED
AN OAT-MEAL-PUDDING
TO MAKE PEAR-PUDDINGS
TO MAKE CALL-PUDDINGS
A BARLEY PUDDING
A PIPPIN-PUDDING
TO MAKE A BAKED OATMEAL-PUDDING
A PLAIN QUAKING-PUDDING
A GOOD QUAKING BAG-PUDDING
ANOTHER BAKED PUDDING
TO MAKE BLACK PUDDINGS
TO PRESERVE PIPPINS IN JELLY, EITHER IN QUARTERS, OR IN SLICES
MY LADY DIANA PORTER’S SCOTCH COLLOPS
A FRICACEE OF VEAL
A TANSY
TO STEW OYSTERS
TO DRESS LAMPREY’S
TO DRESS STOCK FISH, SOMEWHAT DIFFERINGLY FROM THE WAY OF HOLLAND
BUTTERED WHITINGS WITH EGGS
TO DRESS POOR-JOHN AND BUCKORN
THE WAY OF DRESSING STOCK-FISH IN HOLLAND
ANOTHER WAY TO DRESS STOCK-FISH
TO DRESS PARSNEPS
CREAM WITH RICE
GREWEL OF OAT-MEAL AND RICE
SAUCE FOR A CARP OR PIKE. TO BUTTER PEASE
A HERRING-PYE
A SYLLABUB
BUTTER AND OIL TO FRY FISH
TO PREPARE SHRIMPS FOR DRESSING
TOSTS OF VEAL
TO MAKE MUSTARD
TO MAKE A WHITE-POT
FOR ROSTING OF MEAT
TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF
TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF
PICKLED CHAMPIGNONS
TO STEW WARDENS OR PEARS
TO STEW APPLES
PORTUGUEZ EGGS
TO BOIL EGGS
TO MAKE CLEAR GELLY OF BRAN
TO BAKE VENISON
TO BAKE VENISON TO KEEP
ABOUT MAKING OF BRAWN
SALLET OF COLD CAPON ROSTED
MUTTON BAKED LIKE VENISON, SOAKING EITHER IN THEIR BLOOD
TO MAKE AN EXCELLENT HARE-PYE
TO BAKE BEEF
TO BAKE PIDGEONS, (WHICH ARE THUS EXCELLENT, AND WILL KEEP A QUARTER OF A YEAR) OR TEALS, OR WILD-DUCKS
GREEN-GEESE-PYE
TO BOIL BEEF OR VENISON TENDER AND SAVOURY
TO BAKE WILDE-DUCKS OR TEALS
TO SEASON HUMBLE-PYES: AND TO ROST WILDE-DUCKS
TO SOUCE TURKEYS
AN EXCELLENT MEAT OF GOOSE OR TURKEY
TO PICKLE AN OLD FAT GOOSE
ABOUT ORDERING BACON FOR GAMBONS, AND TO KEEP
TO MAKE A TANSEY
ANOTHER WAY
TO MAKE CHEESE-CAKES
SHORT AND CRISP CRUST FOR TARTS AND PYES
TO MAKE A CAKE
ANOTHER CAKE
TO MAKE A PLUMB-CAKE
TO MAKE AN EXCELLENT CAKE
TO MAKE BISKET
TO MAKE A CARAWAY-CAKE
ANOTHER VERY GOOD CAKE
EXCELLENT SMALL CAKES
MY LORD OF DENBIGH’S ALMOND MARCH-PANE
TO MAKE SLIPP COAT CHEESE
TO MAKE SLIPP-COAT-CHEESE
SLIPP-COAT CHEESE
TO MAKE A SCALDED CHEESE
THE CREAM-COURDS
SAVOURY TOSTED OR MELTED CHEESE
TO FEED CHICKEN
TO FEED POULTRY
ANOTHER WAY OF FEEDING CHICKEN
TO FATTEN YOUNG CHICKENS IN A WONDERFULL DEGREE
TO FEED CHICKEN
ANOTHER EXCELLENT WAY TO FATTEN CHICKEN
AN EXCELLENT WAY TO CRAM CHICKEN
TO FEED PARTRIDGES THAT YOU HAVE TAKEN WILDE
TO MAKE PUFFS
APPLES IN GELLY
SYRUP OF PIPPINS
GELLY OF PIPPINS OR JOHN-APPLES
PRESERVED WARDENS
SWEET MEAT OF APPLES
A FLOMERY-CAUDLE
PLEASANT CORDIAL TABLETS, WHICH ARE VERY COMFORTING, AND STRENGTHEN NATURE MUCH
TO MAKE HARTS-HORN GELLY
HARTS-HORN GELLY
TO MAKE HARTS-HORN GELLY
ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE HARTS-HORN-GELLY
MARMULATE OF PIPPINS
GELLY OF QUINCES
PRESERVED QUINCE WITH GELLY
TO MAKE FINE WHITE GELLY OF QUINCES
WHITE MARMULATE, THE QUEENS WAY
MY LADY OF BATH’S WAY
PASTE OF QUINCES
PASTE OF QUINCES WITH VERY LITTLE SUGAR
ANOTHER PASTE OF QUINCES
A SMOOTHENING QUIDDANY OR GELLY OF THE CORES OF QUINCES
MARMULATE OF CHERRIES
MARMULATE OF CHERRIES WITH JUYCE OF RASPES AND CURRANTS
TO MAKE AN EXCELLENT SYRUP OF APPLES
SWEET-MEATS OF MY LADY WINDEBANKS
GELLY OF RED CURRANTS
GELLY OF CURRANTS, WITH THE FRUIT WHOLE IN IT
MARMULATE OF RED CURRANTS
SUCKET OF MALLOW STALKS
CONSERVE OF RED ROSES
ANOTHER CONSERVE OF ROSES
We would like to thank Sandra Raphael for her expert advice on plants and her affectionate knowledge of apples; Ian McLellan for his painstaking historical research and his stalwart assistance. We would also like to tender our warm thanks to Research and Innovations at the University of Warwick who have been as supportive of this as they have of all our other projects. Two friends offered us early support: Faith Matthews provided companionship in the interpretation of early modern recipes and Liz Cameron (who in the ideal world would have had time to collaborate with us) gave us valued encouragement. Tom Jaine, of Prospect Books, has helped and encouraged us in every way.
This book began, more than a decade ago, as a proposed collaboration with the late Elizabeth David and progressed some way at that time. Thanks are due to the late Alan Davidson for his kind attempts to assist with the recovery of the original version, and for his and Caroline Davidson’s subsequent guidance of this new edition towards its ideal publisher.
It seems inevitable and fitting that our minority share in this book as its editors should be dedicated to Mrs David’s memory.
Jane Stevenson Peter Davidson S. Joseph of Copertino, 1996
THE LIVES OF SIR KENELM DIGBY AND VENETIA DIGBY, AS WRITTEN BY JOHN AUBREY†
Sir Kenelm Digby, knight: he was borne at (Gotehurst, Bucks) on the eleventh of June: see Ben: Johnson, 2nd volumne:—
‘Witnesse they actions done at Scanderoon
Upon thy birthday, the eleaventh of June.’
[Memorandum:—in the first impression in 8vo it is thus; but in the folio ’tis my, instead of thy.]
Mr. Elias Ashmole assures me, from two or three nativities by Dr. (Richard) Nepier, that Ben: Johnson was mistaken and did it for the ryme-sake.—In Dr. Napier’s papers of nativities, with Mr. Ashmole, I find:— ‘Sir Kenelme Digby natus July 11, 5h 40´ A.M., 26 Cancer ascending’; and there are two others of Cancer and Leo.
He was the eldest son of Sir Everard Digby, who was accounted the handsomest gentleman in England. Sir Everard sufferd as a traytor in the gunpowder-treason; but king James restored his estate to his son and heire. Mr. Francis Potter told me that Sir Everard wrote a booke De Arte Natandi. I have a Latin booke of his writing in 8vo:—Everardi Dygbei De duplici methodo libri duo, in dialogues ‘inter Aristotelicum et Ramistam,’ in 8vo: the title page is torne out.—His second son was Sir John Digby, as valiant a gentleman and as good a swordman as was in England, who dyed (or was killed) in the king’s cause at Bridgewater, about 1644.
It happened in 1647 that a grave was opened next to Sir John Digby’s (who was buried in summer time, it seemes), and the flowers on his coffin were found fresh, as I heard Mr. Harcourt (that was executed) attest that very yeare. Sir John died a batchelour.
Sir Kenelme Digby was held to be the most accomplished cavalier of his time. He went to Glocester hall in Oxon, anno [1618] (vide A. Wood’s Antiq. Oxon.).The learned Mr. Thomas Allen (then of that house) was wont to say that he was the Mirandula of his age. He did not weare a gowne there, as I have heard my cosen Whitney say.
There was a great friendship between him and Mr. Thomas Allen; whether he was his scholar I know not. Mr. Allen was one of the learnedest men of this nation in his time, and a great collector of good bookes, which collection Sir Kenelme bought (Mr. Allen enjoyeing the use of them for his life) to give to the Bodlean Library, after Mr. Allen’s decease, where they now are.
He was a great traveller, and understood 10 or 12 languages. He was not only master of a good and gracefull judicious stile, but he also wrote a delicate hand, both fasthand and Roman. I have seen lettres of his writing to the father of this earle of Pembroke, who much respected him.
He was such a goodly handsome person, gigantique and great voice, and had so gracefull elocution and noble addresse, etc., that had he been drop’t out of the clowdes in any part of the world, he would have made himselfe respected. He was envoyé from Henrietta Maria (then Queen-mother) to Pope [Innocent X] where at first he was mightily admired; but after some time he grew high, and hectored with his holinesse, and gave him the lye. The pope sayd he was mad. But the Jesuites spake spitefully, and sayd ’twas true, but then he must not stay there above six weekes.
He was well versed in all kinds of learning. And he had also this vertue, that no man knew better how to abound, and to be abased, and either was indifferent to him. No man became grandeur better; sometimes again he would live only with a lackey, and horse with a foote-cloath.
He was very generous, and liberall to deserving persons. When Abraham Cowley was but 13 yeares old, he dedicated to him a comedy, called Love’s Riddle, and concludes in his epistle—’The Birch that whip’t him then would prove a Bay.’ Sir K. was very kind to him.
When he was at Rome one time, (I thinke he was envoyé from Mary the Queen-mother to Pope [InnocentX]) he contrasted with his holinesse.
Anno … (quaere the countesse of Thanet) much against his mother’s, etc., consent, he maried that celebrated beautie and courtezane, Mrs. Venetia Stanley, whom Richard earle of Dorset kept as his concubine, had children by her, and setled on her an annuity of 500li. per annum; which after Sir K. D. maried was unpayd by the earle; and for which annuity Sir Kenelme sued the earle, after mariage, and recovered it. He would say that a handsome lusty man that was discreet might make a vertuose wife out of a brothell-house. This lady carried herselfe blamelessly, yet (they say) he was jealous of her. She dyed suddenly, and hard-hearted woemen would censure him severely.
After her death, to avoyd envy and scandall, he retired in to Gresham Colledge at London, where he diverted himselfe with his chymistry, and the professors’ good conversation. He wore there a long mourning cloake, a high crowned hatt, his beard unshorne, look’t like a hermite, as signes of sorrowe for his beloved wife, to whose memory he erected a sumptuouse monument, now quite destroyed by the great conflagration. He stayed at the colledge two or 3 yeares.
The faire howses in Holbourne, between King’s street and Southampton street, (which brake-off the continuance of them) were, about 1633, built by Sir Kenelme; where he lived before the civil warres. Since the restauration of Charles II he lived in the last faire house westward in the north portico of Convent garden, where my lord Denzill Hollis lived since. He had a laboratory there. I thinke he dyed in this house—sed quaere.
He was prisoner, 164…, for the king (Charles I) at Winchester-house, where he practised chymistry, and wrote his booke of Bodies and Soule, which he dedicated to his eldest son, Kenelme, who was slaine (as I take it) in the earle of Holland’s riseing.
Anno 1630… Tempore Caroli Imi he received the sacrament in the chapell at Whitehall, and professed the Protestant religion, which gave great scandal to the Roman Catholiques; but afterwards he looked back.
He was a person of very extraordinary strength. I remember one at Shirburne (relating to the earl of Bristoll) protested to us, that as he, being a midling man, being sett in [a] chaire, Sir Kenelme tooke up him, chaire and all, with one arme.
He was of an undaunted courage, yet not apt in the least to give offence. His conversation was both ingeniose and innocent.
Mr. Thomas White, who wrote de Mundo, 1641, and Mr … Hall of Leige, e societate Jesu, were two of his great friends.
As for that great action of his at Scanderoon, see the Turkish Historie. Sir [Edward] Stradling, of Glamorganshire, was then his vice-admirall, at whose house is an excellent picture of his, as he was at that time: by him is drawen an armillary sphaere broken, and undernethe is writt IMP AVID UM FERIENT (Horace). See excellent verses of Ben: Johnson (to whome he was a great patrone) in his 2d volumne. There is in print in French, and also in English (translated by Mr. James Howell), a speech that he made at a philosophicall assembly at Montpelier, 165… Of the sympathetique powder—see it. He made a speech at the beginning of the meeting of the Royall Society Of the vegetation of plants.
He was borne to three thousand pounds per annum. His ancient seat (I thinke) is Gote-herst in Buckinghamshire. He had a fair estate also in Rutlandshire. What by reason of the civil warres, and his generous mind, he contracted great debts, and I know not how (there being a great falling out between him and his then only son, John) he settled his estate upon … Cornwalleys, a subtile sollicitor, and also a member of the House of Commons, who did putt Mr. John Digby to much charge in lawe… quaere what became of it?
Mr. J. D. had a good estate of his owne, and lived handsomely then at what time I went to him two or 3 times in order to get your Oxon. Antiqu.; and he then brought me a great book, as big as the biggest Church Bible that ever I sawe, and the richliest bound, bossed with silver, engraven with scutchions and crest (an ostrich); it was a curious velame. It was the history of the family of the Digbyes, which Sir Kenelme either did, or ordered to be donne. There was inserted all that was to be found any where relating to them, out of records of the Tower, rolles, &c. All ancient church monuments were most exquisitely limmed by some rare artist. He told me that the compileing of it did cost his father a thousand pound. Sir Jo. Fortescue sayd he did beleeve ’twas more. When Mr. John Digby did me the favour to shew me this rare MS., ‘This booke,’ sayd he, ‘is all that I have left me of all the estate that was my father’s!’ He was almost as tall and as big as his father: he had something of the sweetnesse of his mother’s face. He was bred by the Jesuites, and was a good scholar. He dyed at …
Sir John Hoskyns enformes me that Sir Kenelme Digby did translate Petronius Arbiter into English.
VENETI A DIGBY
Venetia Stanley was daughter of Sir … Stanley.
She was a most beautifull desireable creature; and being matura viro was left by her father to live with a tenant and servants at Enston-abbey (his land, or the earl of Derby’s) in Oxfordshire; but as private as that place was, it seemes her beautie could not lye hid. The young eagles had espied her, and she was sanguine and tractable, and of much suavity (which to abuse was greate pittie).
In those dayes Richard, earle of Dorset (eldest son and heire to the Lord Treasurer, vide pedigree), lived in the greatest splendor of any nobleman of England. Among other pleasures that he enjoyed, Venus was not the least. This pretty creature’s fame quickly came to his Lordship’s eares, who made no delay to catch at such an opportunity.
I have now forgott who first brought her to towne, but I have heard my uncle Danvers say (who was her contemporary) that she was so commonly courted, and that by grandees, that ’twas written over her lodging one night in literis uncialibus,
PRAY NOT COME NEER , FOR DAME VENETIA STANLEY LODGETH HERE.
The earle of Dorset, aforesayd, was her greatest gallant, who was extremely enamoured of her, and had one if not more children by her. He setled on her an annuity of 500li. per annum.
Among other young sparkes of that time, Sir Kenelme Digby grew acquainted with her, and fell so much in love with her that he married her, much against the good will of his mother; but he would say that ‘a wise man, and lusty, could make an honest woman out of a brothellhouse.’ Sir Edmund Wyld had her picture (and you may imagine was very familiar with her), which picture is now (vide) at Droitwytch, in Worcestershire, at an inne, where now the towne keepe their meetings. Also at Mr. Rose’s, a jeweller in Henrietta-street in Convent garden, is an excellent piece of hers, drawne after she was newly dead.
She had a most lovely and sweet-turn’d face, delicate darke-browne haire. She had a perfect healthy constitution; strong; good skin; well proportioned; much enclining to a Bona Roba (near altogether). Her face, a short ovall; darke-browne eie-browe, about which much sweetness, as also in the opening of her eie-lids. The colour of her cheekes was just that of the damaske rose, which is neither too hott nor too pale. She was of a just stature, not very tall.
Sir Kenelme had severall pictures of her by Vandyke, &c. [Her picture by Vandyke is now at Abermarleys, in Carmarthenshire, at Mr. Cornwalleys’ sonne’s widowe’s (the lady Cornwalleys’s) howse, who was the daughter and heire of … Jones, of Abermarles.] He had her hands cast in playster, and her feet, and her face. See Ben: Johnson’s 2d volumne, where he hath made her live in poetrey, in his drawing of her both body and mind:—
‘Sitting, and ready to be drawne,
What makes these tiffany, silkes, and lawne,
Embroideries, feathers, fringes, lace,
When every limbe takes like a face!’—&c.
When these verses were made she had three children by Sir Kenelme, who are there mentioned, viz. Kenelme, George, and John.
She dyed in her bed suddenly. Some suspected that she was poysoned. When her head was opened there was found but little braine, which her husband imputed to her drinking of viper-wine; but spitefull woemen would say ’twas a viper-husband who was jealous of her that she would steale a leape. I have heard some say,—e.g. my cosen Elizabeth Falkner,—that after her mariage she redeemed her honour by her strick’t living. Once a yeare the earle of Dorset invited her and Sir Kenelme to dinner, where the earle would behold her with much passion, and only kisse her hand.
Sir Kenelme erected to her memorie a sumptuouse and stately monument at … Fryars (neer Newgate-street) in the east end of the south aisle, where her bodie lyes in a vault of brick-worke, over which are three steps of black marble, on which was a stately altar of black marble with 4 inscriptions in copper gilt affixed to it: upon this altar her bust of copper gilt, all which (unlesse the vault, which was onely opened a little by the fall) is utterly destroyed by the great conflagration. Among the monuments in the booke mentioned in Sir Kenelme Digby’s life, is to be seen a curious draught of this monument, with copies of the severall inscriptions.
About 1676 or 5, as I was walking through Newgatestreet, I sawe Dame Venetia’s bust standing at a stall at the Golden Crosse, a brasier’s shop. I perfectly remembred it, but the fire had gott-off the guilding: but taking notice of it to one that was with me, I could never see it afterwards exposed to the street. They melted it downe. How these curiosities would be quite forgott, did not such idle fellowes as I am putt them downe!
Memorandum:—at Goathurst, in Bucks, is a rare originall picture of Sir Kenelme Digby and his lady Venetia, in one piece, by the hand of Sir Anthony van Dyke. In Ben. Johnson’s 2d volumne is a poeme called ‘Eupheme, left to posteritie, of the noble lady, the ladie Venetia Digby, late wife of Sir Kenelme Digby, knight, a gentleman absolute in all numbers: consisting of these ten pieces, viz. Dedication of her Cradle; Song of her Descent; Picture of her Bodie; Picture of her Mind; Her being chose a Muse; Her faire Offices; Her happy Match; Her hopefull Issue; Her ’AΠOΘEΩΣIΣ or Relation to the Saints; Her Inscription, or Crowne.’
Her picture drawn by Sir Anthony Vandyke hangs in the queene’s drawing-roome, at Windsor- castle, over the chimney.
Venetia Stanley was (first) a miss to Sir Edmund Wyld; who had her picture, which after his death, serjeant Wyld (his executor) had; and since the serjeant’s death hangs now in an entertayning-roome at Droitwich in Worcestershire. The serjeant lived at Droitwich.
A CHRONOLOGY OF THE LIFE OF SIR KENELM DIGBY
1600The future Venetia Digby born: daughter of Sir Edward Stanley of Eynsham Abbey and Lucy Percy, daughter of the 7th Earl of Northumberland. Brought up at Salden, Bucks.1603(11 July) Kenelm Digby born at Gayhurst (Gotehurst), Buckinghamshire, to Sir Everard Digby and Mary, his wife (née Mulsho).1605Gunpowder Plot: Sir Everard implicated.1606(30 January) Sir Everard hanged, drawn and quartered. Sir Kenelm brought up by his mother, who did not remarry.1617To Spain with his uncle Sir John Digby: negotiations for a Spanish bride for Charles I.1618Enters Oxford as commoner.c.1620-23 Meets Venetia. Shortly after, departs for Grand Tour through Europe. Spends two years in Florence, called to Madrid for unsuccessful royal marriage negotiations early in 1623. Venetia in London. Affair with Edward Sackville, later 4th Earl of Dorset: rumours of a child by him. Her name also linked with other men: Sir Edmund Wyld, Richard Sackville, Robert Carr (Earl of Somerset).1623Kenelm back in England: knighted by James VI.1625Secret wedding of Kenelm and Venetia. Charles I marries a French princess, Henrietta Maria.1626Birth of Kenelm, Venetia’s first son by Digby; pregnancy successfully concealed.1627Privateering in the Mediterranean, writes Memoirs.1628Wins famous naval battle at Scanderoon, June 21.1629Becomes Surveyor General of the Navy in London (till 1635), lives mostly in London. Venetia now openly acknowledged as his wife. Four sons were born: Kenelm, John, George, another who died in infancy, and a daughter (never mentioned).1630Conforms to Anglicanism; becomes friendly with Van Dyck.1633May 1: finds Venetia dead in bed, summons Van Dyck to paint a final portrait, commissions Jonson and others to write memorial verses, then retreats into seclusion at Gresham College.1634Commissions a history of the Digby family, an ornate volume said by Aubrey to have cost £1,000 at the lowest estimate; gives 238 MS to the Bodleian Library, Oxford.1635Returns to Catholicism, and goes to Paris, where he becomes a friend of René Descartes.1637Returns to London: engaged in Catholic apologetics.1638Recalled by Henrietta Maria to help raise funds for Charles’s battle against the rebellious Scots (the first Bishops’ War).1641Called before the Long Parliament and removed from Charles’s Council. To France and Holland: kills a man in a duel and flees back to England.1642Civil War begins. Commons orders his imprisonment.1643Released and banished.1644In Paris: becomes Chancellor to Henrietta Maria, who escapes from England in this year.1645In the Vatican, appealing for funds to help Charles: returns to Paris.1646-8Second fund-raising mission to the Pope, also a failure. Eldest son (Kenelm) killed fighting for the king, youngest (George) dies at school in Paris.164930 January: Charles I executed. Sir Kenelm returns to England in May; banished again August 31.1650Brief return to England to recover his estate.1654Visits Cromwell at Whitehall as intermediary between Cromwell and Cardinal Mazarin.1655Returns to Paris: relations with surviving son (John) strained over what John considered Sir Kenelm’s financial mismanagement. More books given to the Bodleian (Oriental manuscripts) and also to Harvard College.1658-60Tours through France, the Low Countries, Germany, Scandinavia.1660May: Restoration of Charles II. Sir Kenelm returns to his house in Covent Garden.1663Royal Society founded. Sir Kenelm sworn in as member of the first Council.1664Temporarily excluded from the court of Charles II.1665To France, seeking a cure for gout and the stone. Returns and dies (of a fever) at Covent Garden, June 11.SIR KENELM DIGBY (1603-1665)
It would be all too easy to begin this introduction with an elegant double equivocation, to the effect that Sir Kenelm Digby is principally remembered for writing a cookery book and for poisoning his wife. Perhaps one could phrase it even more novelistically, saying that a melancholy interest must inevitably attend a book of recipes compiled by a man widely believed to have poisoned his wife.
Unfortunately, neither statement is true. While Digby collected recipes throughout his adult life, he cast very few of them into the form in which they are given in this book. Most of them are simply printed from his own rough notes, without his editorial intervention, in the words of the friend, correspondent or cook from whom he obtained them. He never thought of them as a book or a potential book: they were collected and roughly ordered into the sequence in which we have them after Digby’s death by his assistant, George Hartman.
It seems, furthermore, unlikely that Digby deliberately poisoned the wife whom he was to mourn with such baroque intensity. Inadvertent poisoning would seem to have been a constant risk attending any use of the random pharmacopoeia of the mid- seventeenth century. Digby was specifically accused of poisoning Venetia with a broth of vipers. To put this in context, it is worth noting that the Great Cordial of no less a man than Sir Walter Raleigh (collected by Digby, and printed by his laboratory assistant Hartman in The True Preserver of Health [1689]) included the flesh, hearts and livers of vipers, along with much else, some of it poisonous. But it seems inevitable, given the place which Digby occupied in the imaginations of his contemporaries, that he should be accused of the very Italian, very Catholic crime of poisoning. The reason that such rumours and imaginations clustered about him is to do with English perceptions of foreignness. As a Catholic, as a courtier identified in the public mind with the unpopular Henrietta Maria, as a man who spent much of his life travelling on the Continent and associating with foreign dignitaries (many of whom gave him recipes), Digby was an obvious figure around whom to weave some of the features of the ‘black legend’ of the depravity of the Catholic South.
Virtually all of his biographers have fallen into that trap. John Aubrey in the seventeenth century is not alone in writing about Digby as though he were the sort of baroquely wicked grandee who inhabits the revenge tragedies of John Webster and the overworked imaginations of xenophobic Protestants. To be fair to Aubrey, however, he seems highly aware in his writing of the status of much of his Digbeian material as rumour, hearsay, gossip and no more. It is only to be expected that when Venetia met an early death, contemporaries would say that she had been poisoned. It is hard to overestimate the fortress mentality of Elizabethan England, and the degree to which it ran to paranoia among those with Puritan sympathies in an England ruled by James I or Charles I, with their foreign, Catholic Queens and their heavily continentalized courts. In the early part of the century, England still thought of herself as embattled against southern Europe, especially after the Gunpowder Plot, which claimed the life of Digby’s father. Less than two decades later, James I’s proposal of a Spanish marriage for the Prince of Wales was attended by a revival of the most rabid anti-Spanish fantasies of the Armada year, and mistrust of Catholics within the gates of England grew. Even without this connection, such a man as Digby, an inveterate traveller from his mid-teens onwards and a speaker of many foreign languages (a facility which the English, then as now, tended to distrust), who was also glamorous, was certain to attract ambiguous and scandalous gossip.
A considerable part of the expected appeal of the recipes when first Hartman published them may well have lain in Digby’s celebrity and the fact that that celebrity was close, in the public imagination, to notoriety: Edward Hyde, Earl of Clarendon, actually describes him as ‘very eminent and notorious throughout the whole course of his life’.
Digby’s glamour is unquestionable. He was larger than life both literally and in terms of personality: ‘a man of a very extraordinary person and presence’, as Clarendon rather grudgingly admits; a compulsive and brilliant talker; a successful naval officer (and pirate); a virtuoso and polymath. Contemporaries thought him one of the handsomest men of his time, ‘the Ornament of England’: this is not reflected in surviving portraits, which may suggest that his attractiveness depended principally on vitality and charm.
He also spoke six languages, and earned the respect of many of his most distinguished contemporaries, particularly scientists: his many friends included Thomas Hobbes, René Descartes and Christiaan Huygens. Most of his scientific activity, like much of the experimental work undertaken by his contemporaries, now appears to be without permanent value, but his Discourse Concerning the Vegetation of Plants (1661) identifies correctly the operation of oxygen and carbon dioxide, while failing to comprehend the precise relation between them. Even his most extreme theory, contained in his Discours...Touchant la Guérison des Playes par la Poudre de Sympathie (1658), of the cure of wounds by the application of a ‘sympathetic powder’ to the weapon, may be less absurd than it seems. Although it has served consistently to bring ridicule on Digby’s scientific reputation (even as recently as the dismissive chapters devoted to him in Umberto Eco’s generally reductive novel The Island of the Day Before [1995]), the late Sir Geoffrey Keynes used to defend Digby roundly in this matter. Sir Geoffrey’s argument was that Digby used the device of the sympathetic powder to persuade the surgeons of the midseventeenth century to cease from packing wounds with the range of potentially septic material in general use at the time, and to cause them instead to clean the wound thoroughly and to cover it with a clean dressing. Digby’s own intention and belief in the matter remains obscure. Perhaps what is most worthy of note is that a desire to reduce his scientific standing is common to almost all of his biographers. The chief cause appears to be the disappointment of the historian of science (working with in a discipline which maintains an inflexibly meliorist view of history) with a figure who was too diversely of his own age to fit the progressive simplifications of the twentieth century.
Digby’s popular reputation focuses on his identities as lover, scientist and patron of the arts; but it is worth noting that some of his other activities are of permanent importance. It is barely an exaggeration to suggest that he is responsible for preserving medieval English literature: the 238 manuscripts which Digby presented to the Bodleian Library in 1634 include (among other treasures) the unique copy of what are still sometimes called the ‘Digby plays’, important manuscripts of Chaucer, Langland, Gower, Hoccleve and Lydgate, and the earliest surviving copy of the Chanson de Roland. Digby also gave an important collection of Arabic and Hebrew manuscripts to the Bodleian at the start of the Civil War; and presented forty books to the new American university, Harvard College, in 1655. His enormous collection of printed books mostly ended up in Paris, and what survives of it is now in the Bibliothèque Nationale.
The biography of Digby and his wife Venetia is complex, and complicated by a number of historical factors. Digby himself was the son of Sir Everard Digby, hanged, drawn and quartered in 1606 for his part in the Gunpowder Plot: his political ambitions, and personal life, were inevitably complicated by both his religion and this damage to the reputation of his family. Unlike most of his contemporaries, Digby spent much of his time abroad from very early in his life: he was fourteen when he first went to Spain, and was sent off on a three-year tour of France, Italy and Spain at seventeen by his mother, anxious to separate him from Venetia (during which tour, he claims indirectly, he was pursued by a number of women, including the dowager Queen of France, Marie de Médicis). This internationalism was bound to cause him trouble, personally and politically, in an England which had inherited from the Elizabethan era not merely chauvinism, but fear and distrust of foreigners. Digby’s public success, limited though it was, is a testimony to his personal brilliance.
Venetia’s position as a young woman of high but far from unequivocal birth—herself rumoured to have borne an illegitimate child to Edward Sackville (later fourth Earl of Dorset)—should have debarred her from making a respectable, even distinguished, marriage. What might have, at best, been expected for her is the fate of a court beauty of the previous generation, Anne Vavasour, who bore a child to the Earl of Oxford, but was devotedly loved by the Queen’s Champion, Sir Henry Lee. After the Oxford debacle, Anne moved in with Lee (a batchelor) at Woodstock, and was his acknowledged mistress throughout his long life. However, he did not marry her: when she was found to be pregnant, she was ‘married’ to an obscure London gentleman called Finch, whose name she thereafter bore. Digby, however, not only married his Venetia, to the considerable astonishment of contemporaries, but openly acknowledged her dubious past: according to Aubrey, he was given to asserting that ‘a handsome lusty man that was discreet might make a vertuouse wife out of a brothel-house’. The bravado or defiance which led Digby to commission Van Dyck to paint the portrait of Venetia now in the National Portrait Gallery seems inexplicable to the late twentieth century. The depiction of Venetia with all the allegorical attributes of Prudence, crowned with laurel by hovering cherubim, with personifications of lust and deceit trampled underfoot, seems to draw gratuitous attention to her equivocal reputation.
Practically everything that is known about Venetia and her past derives either from Digby himself or from John Aubrey’s famous Brief Lives, a series of notes and sketches towards short biographies of his contemporaries, compiled in the later part of the seventeenth century and quoted in extenso above. Since Venetia’s story is so essential a part of the Digby legend, it is worth pausing to note that Aubrey had an extremely good source for his account of her. He gives the name of Sir Edmund Wyld as one of her lovers, the father of another Sir Edmund Wyld, Aubrey’s patron and one of his closest friends, with whom he stayed for long periods. We have therefore a very direct source both for the details of her career (which Digby understandably glosses over), for Aubrey’s memorable short biography, and for Digby’s own comments on Venetia’s early life.
Given how influential Aubrey’s account has been on all subsequent writing about the Digbys, it is important to remember the scope and limitations of the Brief Lives: they originated as notes made for the biographical researches of Anthony à Wood, and thus have the authenticity of notes—direct records of speech. They also have the limitations of all orally-collected material: the memories of Aubrey’s informants are vulnerable to retrospective falsification, to the influences of prejudices and rumours.
While the descriptions of Venetia’s appearance has all the weight (and emotion) of first-hand recollection, probably that of the Wylds, it is sensible to be wary of some of the generalisations in the life of Digby himself, which reflect, perhaps, the hostility which was felt towards a representative of the exotic court of Henrietta Maria rather than any simple historical truth.
Aubrey’s description of Venetia moves, without signalling its change of mode, from documentation, the whereabouts of surviving portraits, to first hand transcribed speech, recollection: ‘She had a most lovely and sweet-turn’d face, delicate darkebrowne haire…’. But then Aubrey moves into either rumour or the selective recording of the quasi-devotional fetishism of the baroque-monster Digby: ‘Sir Kenelme had severall pictures of her by Vandyke, &c. He had her hands cast in playster, and her feet, and her face.’