The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training - Tracy J. Libby - E-Book

The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training E-Book

Tracy J. Libby

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Beschreibung

As puppy adoption continues to climb annually in the United States, so too does the demand for an absolute resource like The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training. Never before have all things puppy been covered in such detail as in the pages of this definitive new book. New puppy parents will make a new dog-smart friend in gifted author Tracy J. Libby, whose inviting tone, positive dog-friendly methods, and deep-rooted knowledge of her four-legged subject, provides everything a new owner needs to know for the puppy's first year.Beginning with the selection of the puppy from a trustworthy source and the puppy's first days in the home, this authoritative, up-to-date guide covers all aspects of house-training, feeding, grooming, obedience lessons, and home and veterinary care. Experienced dog owners, too, will find solutions to commonly encountered puppy issues, from separation anxiety and puppy cough to recurring house-training accidents and food guarding. Whether it's natural remedies for allergies, selecting a doggy daycare, traveling by rail, or mastering the down-stay cue, The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training has the information readers want and need.INSIDE THIS DOG FANCY BOOK:•Puppy basics: selecting a puppy, puppy proofing and safety, daily routine, and accessories•Puppy kindergarten and house-training, puppy manners and socialization, puppies and children•Teaching basic cues (sit, down, stay, come, etc.) and advanced training•Grooming, feeding and nutrition, and exercise•Veterinary care, vaccinations, spaying/neutering, and common puppy ailments•Solving behavioral problems (jumping, digging, shyness, aggression, etc.)•25 signs of sickness, 35 major health considerations, and 50 first aid emergencies•Natural dog care: holistic, homeopathic, herbal, and hands-on therapies•Fun with dogs: tricks, indoor and outdoor games, dog sports and competitionThis volume is the only book you'll need to start out right with your new puppy!

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The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training

Project Team

Editor: Andrew DePrisco

Copy Editor: Amy Deputato

Design: Mary Ann Kahn

i-5 PUBLISHING, LLCTM

Chief Executive Officer: Mark Harris

Chief Financial Officer: Nicole Fabian

Vice President, Chief Content Officer: June Kikuchi

General Manager, i-5 Press: Christopher Reggio

Art Director, i-5 Press: Mary Ann Kahn

Vice President, General Manager Digital: Jennifer Black

Production Director: Laurie Panaggio

Production Manager: Jessica Jaensch

Marketing Director: Lisa MacDonald

Copyright © 2014 by i-5 Publishing, LLCTM

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of i5 PressTM, except for the inclusion of brief quotations in an acknowledged review.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Libby, Tracy, 1958-

The ultimate guide to puppy care and training : house-training, life skills, and basic care from puppyhood to adolescence / by Tracy Libby.

pages cm

Includes index.

ISBN 978-1-62187-089-0 (alk. paper)

1. Puppies. 2. Puppies--Training. I. Title.

SF427.L6664 2014

636.7’0835--dc23

2014015366

eBook ISBN:

This book has been published with the intent to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter within. While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the author and publisher expressly disclaim any responsibility for any errors, omissions, or adverse effects arising from the use or application of the information contained herein. The techniques and suggestions are used at the reader’s discretion and are not to be considered a substitute for veterinary care. If you suspect a medical problem, consult your veterinarian.

i-5 Publishing, LLC™

3 Burroughs, Irvine, CA 92618

www.facebook.com/i5press

www.i5publishing.com

Part I: Puppy Basics

Chapter 1: Selecting a Puppy

So you are thinking about getting a puppy. Or maybe you have recently acquired one. Either way, the rewards of dog ownership are immense. After all, they say that a dog is man’s best friend, and a lot of studies indicate that owning a dog (or two!) can be good for your health. Lower blood pressure and increased exercise are noted benefits, as are unconditional love and companionship. Many owners refer to their dogs as ‘family members,” and many times, a dog is a person’s only family. Hopefully you are, or soon will be, part of the 72 percent of US pet owners who consider their pets as part of the family. However, before you rush off to acquire a new puppy, you need to keep in mind that puppies—despite their cuddly good looks and charming antics—are a lot of work.

A puppy is an enormous responsibility that goes well beyond simply feeding your four-legged companion. Your precious bundle of fur will quickly grow into an adult dog who will live with you for ten to fifteen years or longer, which is longer than some jobs, mortgages, and marriages last. Your puppy will depend on you for his food, water, shelter, exercise, grooming, training, and regular veterinary care. He will look to you to provide companionship and affection and to never put him in a position where he can get himself into danger. In return, he will track mud through the house, refuse to come when called, commit unspeakable acts against your personal property, and provide plenty of opportunities for public humiliation. The good news is, if you open your heart, your puppy will change your life. He will touch your soul, provide you with years of unconditional love, fill your heart with joy and devotion, and make you laugh harder than you ever thought possible. Breed-Specific Legislation (BSL)

Breed-Specific Legislation (BSL)

Some breeds, despite their intelligence and trainability, have been labeled as “aggressive” or” dangerous.” The image of certain breeds, perpetuated in popular culture, has created a negative and stereotypical bad-dog reputation for many breeds. When negative stereotypes run amok, breed-specific legislation and dangerous-dog laws appear. From small towns such as Manly, Iowa, to large cities including San Francisco, Denver, and London, politicians are mandating how dogs must be walked in public or contained on their property—just because of their breed. Worse yet, many cities have banned pit bull ownership—making it illegal to own a pit bull, a pit bull mix, or any dog that resembles a pit bull. Be sure to do your due diligence before you choose a specific breed. You may find yourself facing an eviction or, worse yet, confiscation notice for your four-legged friend.

The Right Dog for You

Acquiring a puppy on a whim is never a good idea. You must consider this decision carefully because you will be making a commitment to provide for all of his needs and to love him for his entire lifetime.

Responsible ownership starts with finding the right puppy to suit your personality, temperament, and living conditions. Think about all of the pros and cons of each breed—big or small, shorthaired or longhaired, energetic or low-key. You may be attracted to a particular breed, such as the turbo-charged Border Collie or one of the tenacious terriers. Maybe you have fallen in love with the shaggy coat of an Old English Sheepdog, the unique spots of the Dalmatian, or the petite size of the Chihuahua . It’s important to note that size is not always an indication of energy level. Parson Russell Terriers, for instance, are small, but they are dynamite in a small package! On the other hand, Saint Bernards are large but not high-energy dogs.

While considering all of these unique breed characteristics, keep in mind that the puppy you choose could be around for ten to twelve years or even longer—so you want a dog who is compatible with your family and suits your lifestyle, and vice versa. Small dogs do not always make great lap dogs. Some breeds, such as the Chihuahua, are too delicate for rambunctious toddlers. Many herding breeds—especially Border Collies and Australian Shepherds—have become popular pets because they are fast, energetic, and enthusiastic with type-A personalities. These dogs like to go, go, go, and that’s terrific if you are equally energetic. However, all of this activity can be daunting, and your dream of dog ownership can quickly turn into a nightmare if your personality is bent more toward being a couch potato. If you prefer calm and quiet to boisterous and excitable, perhaps a slower paced dog, say, a Bulldog, is better suited to you.

Generations of selective breeding have yielded littermates that appear practically identical.

Do You Have the Time and Patience?

Be realistic about your circumstances and your expectations before you acquire a puppy. This point can’t be stressed enough. How much time do you have? Are you already struggling to juggle work and family? If so, consider an aquarium rather than a puppy because puppies are hugely time-consuming. They require enormous amounts of attention—at all hours of the day and sometimes in the middle of the night. They can be inconvenient. They want to eat and potty even when you are, well, dog tired. They want to play when you want to nap.

Puppies need plenty of physical and mental stimulation. If left to their own devices, they will get into all kinds of mischief—barking, chewing, digging, and peeing from one end of the house to the other. Dogs are social animals and often become stressed when left alone for extended periods of time. You will need to spend a lot of time playing with, training, and socializing your puppy by going places, meeting people, and exposing him to all sorts of different situations. Puppies can be expensive, too, because they need food, toys, bedding, training classes, leashes, collars, flea and tick control, vaccinations, and regular trips to the veterinarian—the list goes on and on!

A puppy’s early days—the first sixteen weeks—are critical for instilling all of the desired behaviors and discouraging unwanted ones. Bringing a puppy into your home if you do not have the time, energy, or patience is unfair and will result in a puppy who is at a higher risk of developing behavioral problems, as well as being denied the best start in life.

Where Do You Live?

Dogs need space to run, play, and explore their environment—to be dogs. Where you live and how much space you have will help you decide what type of puppy best suits your lifestyle. Or maybe help you rethink dog ownership.

Do you live in the city or country? Do you have a large yard or a small patio? Do you own your home or rent? Plenty of landlords, as well as some housing communities such as condominiums, co-ops, and active-adult communities, do not permit dogs or limit dogs to a certain size. Some even go as far as to ban specific breeds, such as pit bulls, Rottweilers, and Doberman Pinschers.

Will your puppy have access to a fenced yard? Do you need to install a new fence or reinforce the one that you have? Maybe you need to add a dog run to keep him safe?

Also consider the the size, as well as the breed, of your prosective puppy. Will the size of your new dog suit your children, as well as your home, furniture, and car? For example, a Great Dane is a big, but not super-active, dog that may do well in a large apartment or smaller house but might not fare so well in a studio apartment.

For most people, the benefits of owning a dog outweigh the cost and responsibility.

What Is Your Lifestyle?

The dynamics of your household will have a huge impact on the type of puppy you choose. Do you live alone? Are you quiet or reserved? Do you have a boisterous family of toddlers or teenagers? Is your household nonstop with friends, kids, and video games? If you have an active and noisy household, you will want to search for a puppy with a solid temperament and personality that can adjust to the domestic hustle and bustle of your home.

Are you looking for an energetic jogging or hiking companion that can keep up with you on extended outings? Do you prefer a field dog for hunting and retrieving? What about a calm companion for leisurely strolls around the neighborhood?

Do you have other pets? Have you considered how they will get along? A docile toy dog is not likely to wreak havoc on livestock, but larger dogs, be they purebred or mixed breed, have been known to chase and sometimes kill cats, chickens, and sheep. Many counties have provisions allowing farmers and ranchers to kill any dog chasing their livestock. Can you keep your dog safe?

You must also consider who will be in charge of feeding and cleaning up after the puppy. (Hint: Thinking that your children will scoop poop on a daily basis is a lofty goal but not likely to happen.) How long will the dog be left alone each day? Who will play with and train him? Take him to obedience class? Walk him? How much are you willing to budget for dog food, vet bills, toys, and other canine necessities?

Time to Groom?

Many of today’s breeds retain the coat for which they were bred. Are you a neat freak? If so, you might prefer the wash-and-wear coat of a Boxer, Boston Terrier, or Doberman Pinscher rather than a four-legged shedding machine such as the Shetland Sheepdog, Golden Retriever, or Chow Chow. Some breeds’ coats, such as the corded coat of the Puli, are more difficult to maintain. Coats also come in a wide range of textures from the crinkly, harsh, and wiry coat common in many terriers to the linty, soft, downy coat of the Bedlington Terrier.

Seriously consider the amount of time and energy you want to spend on grooming. All dogs require regular grooming, regardless of their coat type, but some coats require more maintenance than others, including clipping, trimming, or stripping (think Poodle, Cocker Spaniel, and Miniature Schnauzer). Are you willing to learn to do it yourself? Do you have the funds to pay a groomer on a regular basis to do it for you?

Do you have allergies? Does dog hair floating around your house make you panic? Are you willing to abandon the notion of ever owning dark-colored clothing or furniture, which is a magnet for dog hair? These are important points to consider when choosing a breed.

A true ball of fur, the tiny Pomeranian will fill your life with endless billows of doggy coat.

Male Versus Female

When it comes to the “battle of the sexes,” personal preference is usually the driving force when choosing between a male and a female dog. Some people simply prefer males to females, and vice versa. Some people are attracted to the larger size and ruggedness of the males. Others love a smaller, more feminine companion. Some owners swear that males are easier to train and that females are more protective.

No studies exist that establish the superiority of one sex over the other. Both sexes have their pros and cons. It is true that females tend to mature faster than males, with many males remaining goofballs for what seems like an eternity. Both sexes can and do make wonderful, loving companions. Behavioral differences depend on the individual breed and temperament of the puppy’s sire and dam. Some dogs are naturally more affectionate or aggressive because of their environment and upbringing.

Intact females come into season very four to six months if not spayed. Intact males can be more dominant, may challenge their owners, and may roam and fight…and they can smell a female in season a mile away.

If you already own a dog—regardless of the breed—consider getting one of the opposite sex who is (or will be) spayed or neutered.. Dogs of the opposite sex are less likely to create chaos and turmoil in terms of fighting and squabbling. Some dogs, despite your best intentions, simply will not live together happily. Much will depend on how well you implement and reinforce canine rules and boundaries. A dog’s individual breed, temperament, and personality will also influence how well he gets along with canine siblings.

DNA Testing for Mutts

If curiosity gets the best of you, DNA testing is readily available and may provide some interesting insight into your mixed-breed dog’s ancestral background. Canine DNA testing has expanded considerably since the first tests became available in 2007. However, before throwing open your wallet, be sure you understand what you are getting.

Two types of tests are available: A swab test is simple enough to be done at home and involves collecting a sample of cells from the dog’s inner cheek with a swab brush. A blood test involves your vet’s drawing a small sample of your dog’s blood. With both types of tests, the samples are sent to a lab for analysis, and then owners receive reports of the results. Some companies have a DNA database of more than 130 AKC-recognized breeds, while others have between 50 and 100 breeds. Accuracy of the tests varies, so first decide what and why you want to learn about your dog’s ancestry.

We Just Want a Great Pet

A dog is a dog, right? Not quite. Dogs, like people, have different personalities, temperaments, quirks, and idiosyncrasies—even within the same breed. Golden Retriever puppies, for example, look strikingly similar in appearance, yet each puppy will develop into a unique individual with his own spirit, personality, and genetic makeup. The genes that a puppy inherits and where he comes from will have a huge impact on his future health and well-being, too.

Generations of selective breeding have produced over three hundred breeds of dog with a wide range of appearances, temperaments, and personalities. Many of today’s pampered pets were once hard-working dogs with full-time jobs. Early breeders—primarily farmers, ranchers, and hunters—selectively bred dogs based on working ability and mental soundness. A dog used for hunting fast rabbits and gazelles required a certain body type, including long legs and a deep chest, for speed. Good scenting ability was a prerequisite for tracking dogs who hunted in heavily forested regions. Guard dogs needed to be strong, brave, and aggressive, with imposing body structures and powerful jaws to intimidate intruders. Retrievers needed soft mouths to fetch downed birds without damaging them. Herding dogs had to be powerful enough to move a stubborn bull or cantankerous ewe across a creek bed and fast enough to chase down a 1,000-pound running bull—and they had to be physically and mentally capable of doing it all day long.

By selectively breeding dogs based on their most favorable or desirable traits, such as instinct, agility, stamina, trainability, size, strength, temperament, and so forth, the genetic factors responsible for desired traits tended to become fixed, or concentrated, in succeeding generations—meaning that certain traits could be reproduced with uniformity. The process is slightly more complicated, but it is why a German Shepherd Dog looks like a German Shepherd Dog, why terriers are crazy about “going to ground” (digging for vermin), and why retrievers are manic about water and love to pick up and carry stuff, be it a downed bird, slipper, or favorite toy.

What does all of this have to do with you? Many purebred dogs retain the traits necessary to perform the jobs for which they were originally bred. These jobs required enormous amounts of energy, drive, stamina, courage, tenacity, and intelligence. The qualities that make them superior working dogs are the very qualities that can make them unsuitable as pets for certain owners.

Too often potential owners make the mistake of thinking that they can change a dog’s inherited traits. Taking the sheepdog off the farm or the terrier out of a vermin-hunting environment does not squelch the dog’s drive, energy, or desire to work. If you want calm and quiet, do not get a Siberian Husky. A Siberian Husky will never be a Basset Hound. If you want a dog that behaves like a Basset, get a Basset. In the absence of physical and mental stimulation, dogs quickly become bored, which leads to unwanted behaviors such as shredding furniture, digging, excessive barking, ransacking trash cans, and so forth—a very frustrating situation for human and canine.

Consider what a dog was originally bred to do and whether you are prepared to make a commitment to deal with the associated behaviors. Border Collies, for instance, which are popular everywhere, have been bred for hundreds of years with one primary goal in mind: improved herding ability. They are the working stiffs of the herding world, and they live to herd morning ‘til night. Physically and mentally capable of doing his job and doing it all day long, a Border Collie is never going to be satisfied with a ten-minute walk around the block. Researching a dog’s history and origin will give you some insight into his behavior and why he does what he does, be it barking, digging, jumping, running, and so forth. The advantage of choosing a purebred puppy is that selective breeding gives you a pretty good idea of how he will act—temperament, personality, activity level—and what he will look like—size, coat color, and coat type—when he is fully grown.

Purchasing a puppy from a reputable breeder offers the most advantages to a puppy buyer.

Mixed Breeds and Designer Dogs

In your search for the perfect puppy, don’t discount a mixed breed. Often referred to as mutts, crossbreeds, curs, mongrels, Heinz 57s, or, the more modern term, All-American, mixed-breed puppies grow into adult dogs who can do pretty much anything that their blue-blooded cousins do, with the exception of participating in AKC conformation shows. As ancient as any dog, mutts make wonderful pets and have gone on to excel in performance sports such as agility, flyball, and obedience. What separates the purebred dog from the mixed breed is the inheritance of genes. Purebred dogs inherit fixed genes that reproduce true to type. Mixed-breed dogs inherit random, unfixed genes from their parents, which is why they have a potpourri of physical traits. Sometimes, but not always, the breed of the dam (mother) will be known, while the sire (father) remains a mystery. Because fixed genes produce a certain type, you can sometimes visually identify a mixed breed as having specific characteristics, such as the coat of a West Highland White Terrier, the body length of a Dachshund, or the head shape of a Doberman Pinscher.

Identifying specific characteristics of purebred dogs, such as size, coat type, tail set, or behavioral traits, can shed some light on what breeds might be milling about in your mixed breed’s DNA makeup. More often than not, these are educated guesses because while your dog may look like a Saint Bernard, he might behave like a Border Collie, or vice versa.

In recent years, the deliberate crossing of two purebred breeds created a “designer dog” fad. The craze began in the 1970s when a blind woman needed a hypoallergenic guide dog to accommodate her husband, who was allergic to dog dander. The solution was to breed a Poodle, known for its hypoallergenic qualities, to a Labrador Retriever, known for its intelligence, trainability, and energy. Because a purebred guide dog was deemed more valuable than a mixed breed, the PR gurus worked overtime to market the “Labradoodle” as a new breed. Celebrities jumped on the Labradoodle bandwagon, and it wasn’t long before Goldendoodles (Golden Retriever and Poodle cross), Puggles (Pug and Beagle cross), and Pomapoo (Pomeranian and Toy Poodle cross), to name a few, also started popping up everywhere.

Designer dogs theoretically have two purebred parents that are deliberately bred to create a desired effect, such as the Pomchi (Pomeranian and Chihuahua cross). Today, people are willing to make an easy buck at the expense of the dog, with prospective owners willing to shell out more money for a designer dog than they would for a purebred dog. What is the reason for a Cavapoo (Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and Poodle cross), a Schnoodle (Schnauzer and Poodle cross), or a Cockalier (Cocker Spaniel and Cavalier King Charles Spaniel cross)? Most of these dogs are bred as trendy pet companions rather than for a particular purpose, such as herding or retrieving.

Despite their lovable good looks and hefty price tags, designer dogs are still mixed-breed dogs. A mixed-breed dog by any other name is s still a mixed-breed dog. Here is why: A breed is not considered a purebred until the offspring breed true, which means that the offspring are just like the parents. This can take upward of six or seven generations. Additionally, some, but not all, designer dogs are not from two purebred parents. But as long as there is a market for Chiweenies (Chihuahua and Dachshund cross) or Huskamutes (Siberian Husky and Alaskan Malamute cross), unscrupulous people will continue breeding mixed-breed dogs.

Bottom Line: Purchasing the wrong type of dog can make life miserable for you and your dog. Plenty of resources are available, and the more informed you are, the better your chances of choosing the perfect dog, thereby helping you avoid personality clashes and future disappointment down the road.

The most popular “designer dog,” the Labradoodle boasts the best qualities of its two parent breeds, the Poodle and the Labrador Retriever.

Where to Find Your Puppy

Once you have decided on the right type of puppy for you and your family, the next step is finding a healthy puppy with a good temperament. Finding the perfect puppy may seem daunting. However, doing your homework and understanding your options will make the journey much easier and increase the odds of a better outcome and a fulfilling long-term relationship.

If you’re interested in rescuing a dog, visit your local animal shelter or humane society. Many wonderful homeless dogs are just waiting to meet their “forever” owners.

Breeders

Breeders often get a bad rap—especially in the press and from animal-rights activists—for perpetuating genetic problems and, of course, pet overpopulation. Granted, unethical and irresponsible breeders do exist, and you should avoid them at all costs. However, many excellent, responsible breeders have spent a lifetime—not to mention astronomical amounts of money—breeding and improving the quality of their chosen breed. These are the people you want to talk to.

Sorting the good breeders from the questionable ones involves research and footwork, but the payoff is well worth the time invested. Reputable, responsible breeders are the future of purebred dogs. Conscientious, dog-smart, and passionate, they care about the welfare of their dogs and their chosen breed. They are trying to improve all the time by doing their homework, studying pedigrees, planning litters, and breeding only to improve the quality of their dogs and the breed as a whole. They understand anatomy and genetics, and their breeding stock is tested for genetic problems, including hip and elbow dysplasia, cataracts, heart issues, and so forth. Puppies are exposed to environmental enrichment and are regularly and affectionately socialized to everything they are likely to encounter as adult dogs. Many of these breeders are top-notch when it comes to evaluating temperaments.

While a good breeder can help you pick the best puppy for you and your family, he or she will sell only to clients who meet their criteria. You will need to answer some questions regarding your dog-rearing know-how, including why you’re interested in a specific breed, whether you’ve ever owned or currently own a dog, whether you have ever surrendered a dog to a shelter, whether you have kids, a fenced yard, other dogs, and so forth. Some breeders require references, too. While this may seem a bit intrusive, good breeders feel personally responsible for every dog they produce. They want assurances that their puppies are going to the best homes for their entire lives.

In return, you will want to know a lot about the breeder. Don’t feel shy asking questions, including:

•How long has the breeder been breeding dogs? Many years in a breed alone does not guarantee quality, but look for a breeder with longevity in the breed.

•How long does the breeder keep the puppies? Most breeders do not let puppies go to new homes until they are at least eight weeks old (or longer for some breeds).

•What clubs or national organizations does the breeder belong to?

•Does the breeder compete in canine sports, such as conformation, agility, herding, tracking, or obedience?

•How many litters does the breeder breed yearly? (More than three or four litters per year may indicate a problem.)

•Can you contact the breeder if problems arise?

•Does the breeder have references?

•Is the breeder willing to take back the dog if it doesn’t work out?

•What is the breeder’s policy regarding inherited health issues (hip or elbow dysplasia, eye problems, or other genetic problems) that might arise?

•Does the breeder have a refund policy?

•Equally important, you will want to know specifics about the puppies. A good, knowledgeable breeder is happy to answer questions. At the very least, you will want to know:

•Are the dogs—sire, dam, puppies—registered with the American Kennel Club or United Kennel Club in the United States or the Canadian Kennel Club in Canada?

•Have the eyes of the sire, dam, and puppies been examined by a canine ophthalmologist?

•Have the sire and dam been tested for inherited genetic problems, such as hip and elbow dysplasia and heart problems?

•Have the puppies been wormed and vaccinated?

•Have the puppies been checked by a veterinarian?

•Will the breeder provide you with copies of the medical records and genetic testing results of the parents as well as your puppy?

•Will the breeder supply a pedigree (three generations minimum)?

Good breeders welcome questions and willingly answer them. If they don’t, scratch him or her off your list and continue searching.

The Paper Trail

If you have purchased your puppy from a reputable breeder, you should receive, at the very least, the following documents: sales contract that includes your puppy’s name, sex, color, birth date; your name, address, and telephone number; and the breeder’s information, purchase price, and date; and possibly breeding rights or restrictions, spay/neuter requirements, description of ownership basis, refund and/or return policy registration certificate, enabling you to register your puppy in your name with the national kennel club inoculation records for canine parvovirus, distemper, hepatitis, and leptospirosis three- or five-generation pedigree that details the puppy’s ancestry health certifications/clearances, depending on your breed, for eyes, hips, or elbows and/or heart

Where to Find a Breeder

A dog show is an excellent starting point. Dog shows provide the perfect forum for talking to breeders, learning more about the breed, and finding out who’s planning a breeding. You may even be able to find out whether anyone may have suitable puppies available in the coming weeks or months. If you’re unsure about which breed you want, you can interact with and compare various breeds of dog and watch them perform in different venues, such as conformation, obedience, agility, and rally.

While these competitive events will give you a pretty good idea of what many breeders are breeding, they are not always the best indicator of a dog’s temperament and working ability. If you’re interested in a hunting or working dog, consider also observing a field trial, lure coursing event, or herding trial to see the dogs in action.

A word of caution: dog shows and trials are normally hectic venues for participants, especially those showing multiple dogs in multiple venues. Handlers and breeders are not being rude—they’re just busy. Ask for a business card and a good time to contact them.

Veterinarians are often familiar with local breeders and the health of their dogs. They can usually provide you with the names of several people who are involved in different breeds.

National clubs and registries, such as the American Kennel Club (AKC), the Canadian Kennel Club (CKC), and The Kennel Club (England), can provide you with overall information on a specific breed as well as their parent or affiliate clubs. These clubs usually have breeders listed on their websites and/or membership coordinators who can put you in touch with breeders in your area. Membership in a parent club is not a guarantee that the breeders are responsible or ethical, but it is a good place to start. Again, you will need to do your due diligence.Many breeders talk with great knowledge about pedigrees and conformation, but keep in mind that their opinions can be very biased. Of course, they will tell you that their puppies are the best! Therefore, you will want to talk to many breeders and ask a lot of questions so that you have something to compare before making your decision, and always, always visit the breeder’s facilities.

You will want to see firsthand the breeder’s home or kennel, all of the puppies, the dam, and possibly the sire, if he’s available. You want to see how the breeder keeps his or her dogs. This point cannot be stressed enough. Are they house dogs? Indoor/outdoor dogs? Are the dogs clean and well cared for? Are they kenneled 24/7 or—heaven forbid—tied to a tree or doghouse?

But what if the breeder is several hours or several states away, you ask? It’s completely possible that you may not find the puppy you’re looking for close to home. You can purchase a puppy and have him shipped to you by the breeder, be it across the state or across the country. However, unless you personally know the breeder, or the kennel has outstanding references from people you trust, it is always prudent to meet the puppy in person. Selling dogs online has become increasingly popular, but online photos can be deceiving and will not tell you anything about the puppy’s temperament, personality, or health.

As puppy mills have come under increased scrutiny, many disreputable puppy brokers (who call themselves “breeders”) have moved their operations online. Sadly, not all people who breed dogs are trustworthy, and the puppy you choose from an online source may be a far cry from what arrives at your doorstep. The best way to be certain you are acquiring a puppy from a responsible breeder is to visit the kennel personally. If a breeder tells you that you can’t visit his or her house or facility or see the mother and the littermates—or if the breeder makes excuses, such as telling you that the mother is tired or at the groomer—do not buy a puppy from this breeder.

An important point to consider is why breeders have litters to sell. Anyone can be a breeder, but why he or she is breeding may send up a red flag—or two! Does the breeder breed working or show dogs, or is this person simply breeding his or her pet dogs to make money? Was this an “oops!” breeding?

In your search, you’re likely to come across breeders who are not interested in the well-being of their dogs or the betterment of the breed. “"Backyard breeders,"” as they are called, are easy to spot once you know what to look for and understand the characteristics of a responsible breeder. Backyard breeders have little regard or concern for their dogs’ pedigrees, working ability, or the finer points of the breed standard. Their bottom line is almost always money, and they usually sell their dogs on a first-come, first-served basis with little regard for the future welfare or living conditions of the dogs.

That said, some backyard breeders are not necessarily bad people, and they don’t all have unscrupulous intentions. Some of them truly love their dogs and provide good care. However, they are ignorant about the complexities of canine health, structural issues, temperament, inherited characteristics, and the long-term consequences of breeding dogs. Many are unaware that they are contributing to an even larger problem—pet overpopulation.

Purchasing your puppy from a backyard breeder is a gamble. You may pay less up front for a puppy, but it’s highly likely that you will pay a good deal more in vet bills down the road—especially if the dog has serious health or temperament problems.

Be smart. Do your homework. If you are going to purchase a puppy, buy from a responsible, knowledgeable breeder who understands and cares about the breed—someone who will be there to help you through the transition periods, offer training advice, and help you make serious decisions regarding the care and well-being of your new puppy.

Rescue Organizations

Rescue organizations are a viable option, although they tend to have more adult dogs than puppies. That’s not to say you won’t find the puppy of your dreams via rescue. Sometimes pregnant mama dogs or young puppies find their way into rescue.

Dogs end up in rescue through no fault of their own. Too many of these dogs are surrendered because their owners made an impulse purchase, did not give sufficient thought to taking on a dog, or did not understand the time and effort required in owning, training, and caring for a dog. Some owners failed to research their chosen breed thoroughly and got a super-active Irish Setter when what they really needed was a low-key Pekingese. Some dogs in rescue have been abused or mishandled. Others are given up or abandoned after they outgrow the cute puppy stage. Many of these dogs are strays or have been voluntarily surrendered to animal shelters because of their owners’ personal or family illness, divorce, death, or other changes.

Numerous rescue organizations exist—large and small, independent and breed-club supported. Most national breed clubs sponsor their own rescue groups. If you are looking for a particular breed, consider contacting the breed’s national parent club, which can put you in touch with a rescue coordinator.

Rescue organizations carefully evaluate each dog for health and temperament issues. Some dogs are placed in experienced foster homes, where they receive veterinary attention, training, grooming, and lots of love until they can be placed in permanent homes.

Plenty of wonderful, loving companions have come out of rescue. Many go on to excel in canine sports, including obedience, agility, herding, flyball and more—proving that dogs can flourish in the hands of responsible people who are willing to love, train, and provide for their dogs’ physical and mental needs.

If you go this route, be sure to go in with eyes wide open. Understand that many of these dogs were not trained properly in their prior homes and may have behavioral issues. Are you prepared to commit to a rescue dog? If so, find out as much as you can about the dog—his history, training, behavior, and so forth. If no history is known, and oftentimes it is not, be sure to consult an experienced trainer or behaviorist for advice.

Pet Shops

Best advice: steer clear of pet stores that sell puppies. Your heart instinctively will go for the adorable but shy, skittish puppy. It is human nature to feel sorry for sad pups in a store window, but these puppies are risky business. Many have had the worst possible start in life, and your life—and your puppy’s—may be fraught with challenges, especially health issues and the associated veterinary expenses.

Responsible breeders—who usually belong to a parent club and abide by a code of ethics—would never sell their puppies to pet stores or any other third-party seller. Therefore, the majority of pet-shop puppies come from puppy mills or farms, where the sire and dam live under deplorable conditions and are bred over and over again purely for profit. These dogs are unhealthy and receive little or no veterinary care, and the puppies are taken at very young ages and sent to dealers or directly to pet stores. Because the puppies are taken from their mothers too soon, they receive no socialization or parental guidance and are often timid, fearful, and downright spooky.

Don’t be fooled by the kennel club registration papers. Many a pedigree has been faked, and none of the documents accompanying a pet-store puppy is an indication or guarantee of quality. Purchasing a puppy from a pet store only encourages irresponsible breeders to produce more litters—purely for financial gain.

Humane Societies and Shelters

Puppies often find their way into humane societies and animal shelters for the same reasons that they end up in rescue organizations. Oftentimes, puppies are whelped and reared in shelter or foster-home environments. Not surprisingly, a particular behavioral problem is the primary reason that most dogs are surrendered to shelters.

Shelter employees and volunteers do their best to work with these dogs to prepare them for adoption. Some shelters work with local rescues, placing some puppies and adult dogs in foster homes for future adoption. Shelter dogs can and do make excellent companions, but they sometimes have behavioral issues and require special care and training.

Pet-Supply-Store Adoptions

A relatively new trend is for large pet-supply stores to work in conjunction with local animal shelters by offering in-store adoptions. These pet superstores open their doors to local animal shelters that bring adoptable dogs to the store for “meet-and-greet” events where the public can interact with all types of dogs in need of homes. Unlike pet-shop dogs, these adoptees are healthy dogs that are available through local animal shelters. Be sure that you know the difference before opening your wallet.

Signs of a Healthy Puppy

When you know how to recognize the signs of a healthy puppy, it won’t be too difficult to spot red flags. At first glance, a puppy may appear healthy, but always look for the following:

•clear, bright eyes with no discharge or swelling of the eyelids

•pink, odor-free ears free of discharge (healthy ears have a slight doggy smell—a bit like the smell of beeswax)

•a clean, healthy coat, shiny and bright with no signs of excess scratching, inflamed skin, rashes, hot spots, or bald spots, which could indicate fleas, mites, ringworm, other parasites

•sweet-smelling “puppy breath”

•healthy, pink gums (pale gums usually indicate anemia or possibly parasites)

•cool, moist, and clean nose, free of nasal discharge, and no frequent sneezing or wheezing

•free movement when walking or playing; no limping

Chapter 2: Puppy’s First Days at Home

Once you have found the perfect puppy, the real fun (and work!) begins. Transitioning to a new home can be confusing and disorienting for a baby dog. He may need a few hours, days, or weeks—depending on his temperament and personality—to adjust to his new life. By planning ahead, you can minimize the stress for both you and your puppy.

Your puppy is counting on you to provide him with a safe and healthy environment, which means puppy-proofing inside and outside. He also needs quality nutrition, regular training, and routine veterinary care. He needs hugs and kisses and cuddling and sweet nothings whispered in his ear. Equally important, you must provide him with guidance and direction, which means setting a regular schedule of eating, pottying, and sleeping. You will need to decide which behaviors are acceptable and which are not, such as jumping on the furniture, sleeping on the bed, begging at the table, snatching food, bolting out doors, and so forth. Household rules should be reinforced from day one to avoid confusing your puppy. Planning ahead will help you avoid the more common mistakes, thereby getting you and your puppy off to a positive start.

Puppy-Proofing and Boundaries

Your puppy is too young to understand that your expensive leather shoes are not for teething, your sofa pillows are not playthings, and your floors are not his personal bathroom. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you puppy-proof your house before your puppy arrives. This point cannot be stressed enough. Like toddlers, puppies are curious and have an abundance of energy. They will want to explore their surroundings and try to put everything in their mouths—whether it fits or not.

Start by getting down on your puppy’s level and taking a look around. What can your puppy get into? What can he eat? What can he climb on? Anything and everything that you think he won't eat or chew—he will! He is not being a naughty puppy; he is simply being a puppy.

Plenty of potential dangers are lurking in your home, so you must look at everything from a puppy’s perspective. What do you see? Shoes, books, magazines lying around? What about a remote control, cell phone, iPad? Pick up or put away anything your puppy is likely to seek out and destroy, including slippers, books, decorative pillows, candy dishes, and so forth. Electrical cords must be safely concealed behind furniture or under rugs or taped to baseboards because they can cause serious injury or death if a puppy chews on them. Prescription drugs, cleaning supplies, detergents, and poisonous houseplants are a disaster waiting to happen if your puppy eats them. Shoelaces, buttons, socks, marbles, thumbtacks, and paper clips, if swallowed, can cause life-threatening intestinal blockages and may require emergency surgery to remove.

Puppy-proof your yard, garden, and outdoor areas, too. Some puppies are climbers, others are diggers, and some are escape artists, eager to muscle their way through the tiniest openings. Make sure your yard is puppy-proofed by securing all fencing and gates and making repairs if needed. Puppies are inquisitive, and if you think he can escape through it, then he will. If your property is not fenced, be sure your puppy is leashed every time he goes outdoors. Puppies are fast and can dart into the road before you finish tying your shoes. Unfortunately, they don't have the mental wherewithal to understand that the street is a dangerous place to be. It is your job to keep your puppy safe.

Pick up hoses, sprinklers, and lawn ornaments that your puppy will likely try to chew. Store containers of poisonous products—antifreeze, fertilizers, herbicides, and the like—on high shelves and out of puppy’s reach. (Consider using nontoxic, animal-friendly products.) Be mindful of products, such as fertilizers, pesticides, rock salt, deicers, or slug bait, that have been applied to your yard or garden area. Many of these products are toxic and can seriously harm your puppy should he ingest them.

African violets, Christmas cactus, and calla lilies are a few of the countless plants that are toxic to dogs. Be sure to keep them far from your puppy’s reach. Check your yard for mushrooms, too, because some of them also can cause your puppy serious harm should he ingest them.

Don't overlook balconies! If your house or apartment has one, be sure that it is puppy-proofed so your puppy cannot squeeze through the railings and escape or, worse yet, tumble over the edge. Inexpensive chicken wire can be used to form a temporary barrier. A baby gate across the doorway will keep your puppy from venturing onto the balcony on his own.

You must carefully consider swimming pools, ponds, waterscapes, streams, and so forth for your puppy’s long-term safety. While many older puppies can swim, your youngster may not be able to find an easy means of escape should he climb or fall into a pool or pond.

While puppy-proofing may seem a bit overwhelming, it is a necessity. Keeping your puppy safe will save you a good deal of money and heartache down the road.

Americans Spend

The American Pet Products Association reports that pet owners spent an estimated $55.72 billion (yes, billion!) dollars on pet supplies in 2013—topping the $53.33 billion spent in 2012.

Start with the Right Stuff

Who doesn’t love to shop? Ornamental beds, designer sweaters, doggie boots, IQ-boosting toys, automatic water dispensers, and custom crates that look like furniture—the list is endless, and with thousands of online vendors, you can shop ’til you drop without ever leaving your house! Basic essentials for your new puppy include a dog bed, collar and leash, crate, exercise pen, food and water bowls, identification, and an assortment of training toys and chew toys. You will also need a brush or two, nail clippers, shampoo, and conditioner; even if you choose to take your dog to a groomer, you should still have the basics on hand.

Food and Water Bowls

Owners often buy bowls that they like rather than what best suits their puppy. After all, who can resist the dog-bone-shaped bowl or the ceramic bowl with the decorative paws? You will need two bowls: one for water and one for food. Depending on the eventual size of the dog you have chosen, you may need to buy several sets of bowls as your puppy grows. What works for a ten-week-old puppy may not work for an 80-pound adult dog. Bowls should be easy to clean and made of material that is not potentially harmful; stainless steel fits these requirements. Ceramic can be toxic, and glass bowls can easily break. Plastic bowls are inexpensive but can harbor bacteria and are not as easily sanitized as stainless steel. Tenacious chewers could easily ingest or choke on shredded pieces from a plastic bowl. Choose bowls with nonslip bases so that they won’t slide across the floor.

Purchase puppy-sized bowls for your large-breed youngster. This Rottie puppy could take a bath in his future water bowl.

Gates

Few dog owners can live without baby (or puppy) gates. They are indispensible and ideal for corralling your puppy and keeping him safe when you cannot give him your undivided attention. Until he is thoroughly house-trained and well through the chewing stage, gates will restrict his access and prevent him from wandering the house, getting himself into trouble, and developing bad habits.

Crates

A crate is an absolute necessity because it serves so many purposes. It's a great house-training tool, the safest place for a dog to be while traveling, and a cozy den for sleeping, retreating, or relaxing. A crate placed in a quiet corner of the kitchen or family room will satisfy a puppy’s natural instinct to seek a safe and secure environment. Your puppy should view the crate as a fun, positive, and inviting place—a quiet place all his own to sleep, eat, and retreat from the demands of being a puppy.

Crates come in different shapes, sizes, and materials, each offering their own advantages. Consider how you will be using the crate and pick the best one for your puppy's needs. For example, folding wire crates provide good air circulation and help keep dogs cool when temperatures are high. A crate cover turns any wire crate into a secure den and provides protection from the elements. Other crate types include heavy-duty, high-impact plastic kennels that meet domestic and international requirements for airline travel.

Purchase a crate that is big enough for your puppy when he is fully grown. Ideally, it should be big enough to allow an adult dog of your breed to stand up, turn around, and stretch out while lying down. If the crate is too big, it defeats the purpose of providing the security of a den. If it is too small, your puppy will be cramped and uncomfortable, and this is neither fair nor humane.

During house-training, a crate that is too large allows a puppy to use one end for sleeping and the other end as a bathroom, which defeats the crate’s purpose as a house-training tool. Some crates come equipped with a divider panel that allows you to adjust the crate space accordingly. This option allows you to block off a portion of the crate for house-training purposes and gradually enlarge the puppy’s area, so the crate can take your four-legged companion from the puppy stage through house-training and into adulthood without the expense of purchasing a second crate.

If you’re prepared for the arrival of your new acquisition, you can savor and enjoy the first days of puppy ownership.

Exercise Pens

An exercise pen (or ex-pen), which is a portable wire playpen for dogs, is another must-have for raising a well-behaved puppy. If you’ve been to a dog show, you've probably seen exhibitors using them. Available in varying heights—usually from 18 to 42 inches (46 to 107 cm)—ex-pens are ideal for placing anywhere you need a temporary kennel area. An ex-pen will safely confine your puppy when you cannot give him your undivided attention, such as when you are eating, working on the computer, talking on the telephone, or doing the laundry. You can bring along an ex-pen to corral your puppy while you are visiting friends or relatives, or you can put your pup in the ex-pen when you have visitors and do not want your puppy pestering everyone.

If you place the exercise pen in the kitchen area, or wherever your family tends to congregate, your puppy can get used to the many sights, sounds, and smells from the safety of the pen. Many owners prefer the kitchen area because kitchens tend to have washable floors that can easily be cleaned and disinfected if your puppy has an accident. Or, set it up in your backyard to corral your puppy without giving him free run of the entire yard, where he can get into mischief. Because ex-pens are portable and fold up for easy storage, they are a real convenience for traveling. You can set it up and give your puppy a small enclosed area for stretching his legs

Beds

Puppies chew, and a tenacious puppy can turn a pricey canine bed into worthless confetti in the time it takes you to run outside and move the sprinkler. Your puppy needs a bed of his own, but it is best to hold off on anything too expensive until he is well through the chewing and pottying stages. A large blanket, folded towel, or cozy fleece pad placed in his crate will do the job for the first few months. A blanket, towel, or pad is easily cleaned in the washing machine and is therefore less likely to develop that distinctive doggysmell.

A simple dog bed that is washable is the best choice for a young puppy that’s still undergoing house-training.

Collars, Leashes, and Harnesses

Ideally, your puppy should wear a lightweight nylon or leather buckle collar with proper identification attached. Some experts warn of the dangers of an unattended dog wearing a collar twenty-four hours a day, the theory being that the dog could get the collar snagged on a fence or the crate and choke to death. This is a genuine concern, and you will need to weigh the pros and cons of a collar. Should you opt against a collar, be sure that your dog has another form of identification, such as a microchip.

Nylon collars are inexpensive, which makes them a good choice for a puppy because you will need to replace the collar several times before the puppy isfully grown. Strong metal buckle fasteners may provide a slight advantage over plastic quick-release clips, which may break more easily. Again, much will depend on the type and size of your dog. There’s no need to go overboard purchasing expensive puppy collars because your puppy will outgrow them at a rapid rate. Leather collars are more expensive than nylon, and while they are well worth the investment for adult dogs, they may not be feasible for puppies.

You’ll need to check the collar size frequently—once a week or so. Left unchecked, a collar that is too small can become embedded into a dog’s neck, causing serious health issues. Ideally, the collar should fit around your puppy’s neck with enough room for you to fit two fingers between his neck and the collar. It should not be so tight as to restrict his breathing or cause coughing, nor should it be so loose that it slips over his head. When too loose, the collar can easily snag on objects, such as shrubbery, a fence post, or another dog’s tooth or paw, causing the dog to panic and possibly hang himself.

Several types of collars, such as choke chains, prong collars, and martingale collars, work by putting pressure on your dog’s neck and throat. While it may be tempting to use these devices on a puppy—especially a strong puppy—these collars are best left to professionals because they can cause serious damage to a puppy’s throat if used incorrectly. Taking the time to train your puppy without these devices to walk properly and not pull will be much more rewarding to you both.

A head halter goes over your dog’s face and applies pressure to the back of the neck rather than the front of the throat. While a head halter can be very effective for some breeds, it is not designed for brachycephalic (short-faced) breeds, such as the Pug and Bulldog. Many dogs object to head halters, so you may need to consult a trainer for alternative solutions.

You may decide to choose a harness for your new puppy. While a harness will take the pressure off of a puppy’s trachea, it will not keep him from pulling. In fact, harnesses on many types of dogs—such as Siberian Huskies, which are bred to run and run and run, and pit bulls, which are strong pullers—will teach a dog to pull, which is the opposite of what you're trying to accomplish. A variety of models are available in different shapes, sizes, and materials. It is best to seek professional advice in order to correctly fit your puppy with a harness and prevent chafing.

Leashes

Countless choices exist when it comes to leashes. A lot will depend on the size and strength of the dog you have chosen, how much money you are willing to spend, and your personal preference. Ideally, you should have several leashes—at least one for home and a spare to keep in your car. You never know when you’ll need it.

A good quality leather leash is expensive but well worth the investment. Leather leashes are kinder and gentler on your hands, which is important because you will be using your leash frequently. The more you use a leather leash, the softer and more pliable it becomes. A well-cared-for leather leash will last a lifetime. If neglected, however, leather leashes can become cracked and brittle and may possibly break. Puppies love to chew leather, too, so be mindful of where you leave your leash lying around.

Nylon leashes are lightweight and relatively inexpensive, but they are not always the best choice for medium or large dogs because they are hard on your hands and can slice your fingers should your dog lunge or give a good pull.

Chain leads are noisy, heavy, cumbersome, and unnecessary.

Rope leashes made from recycled climbing rope are softer than nylon and have a smidge of elasticity to them. Ideal for most breeds, they are durable; come in a wide range of styles, lengths, and fashionable colors; and are gentle on your hands.

Retractable leashes are designed to extend and retract at the touch of a button. While some trainers use retractable leashes for teaching puppy recalls, many trainers recommend them only on well-behaved dogs that respond to voice commands. While a retractable leash allows your puppy a bit more privacy to do his business, sniff, and explore, the downside is that the leash can quickly become tangled around fence posts, bushes, trees, or other dogs if you are attempting to walk more than one dog at the same time. If a strong or determined puppy gets too far out on the leash, you may have trouble reeling him in.

Depending on the size and breed of your dog, you will need to weigh the pros and cons of using a retractable leash. If you go this route, be sure to invest in a good-quality retractable leash designed for your breed. A thin retractable leash will be no good for a Staffordshire Bull Terrier, while a large, heavy leash will be too weighty for a Pomeranian.

Puppy Brushes

Countless types of brushes—from slickers to boar hair to wire pin—are available, and the equipment you choose for grooming depends largely on your puppy’s coat type and texture. A slicker works well for removing dead undercoat and debris from double-coated breeds; however, it will cause breakage on the long hair of drop-coated breeds. A brush with soft metal pins on a rubber-cushioned base, one in which the pins will give and not break the hair, are good for most breeds because they can work through the top coat and undercoat easily.

Metal combs can be used to help break up mats and remove stubborn undercoat. A curry comb, hound glove, and canine chamois work well on short- or smooth-coated breeds.

Newly Adopted Puppies

Depending on where and from whom you acquired your puppy, he may be a high flight risk. Maybe he has a history of escaping, which may be how he ended up at a shelter or rescue organization. Busy, excitable puppies that are too young or lack adequate recall or obedience training can easily escape and get lost. It can take a long time for some puppies and young dogs to get used to new homes, sounds, people, routines, and so forth. If you are uncertain about your puppy’s history or training, you should always assume that he is at high risk of escaping and take precautions. Go beyond what you think is necessary, and the odds of keeping your pet off the “lost” list will increase greatly.

Identification

The importance of proper identification cannot be stressed enough. No one expects his or her dog to go missing, but accidents happen, and the nightmare of losing a dog happens to thousands of responsible owners every day. Dogs dig under fences, bolt out of car doors, or escape through gates or doors accidentally left open. A resourceful dog can climb up on a table or chair and escape over a fence (Yes! That happens.) Dogs can easily slip outside unnoticed as visitors are arriving or leaving. Taking preventive measures can save your dog’s life. That’s why making sure your puppy is properly identified is crucial. Be smart. Do it today!

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