Wire-Wrapped Jewelry Techniques E-Book

Lora S. Irish

• Herausgeber: Fox Chapel Publishing
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2018

Seitenzahl: 151

Beschreibung

Wire wrapping is a quick and easy technique that will take your jewelry craft to the next level. A little wire, a few simple tools, and some brightly colored beads are all you need to start creating your own intriguing fashion statements. By adding new wires to basic links, you can alter simple links into complex and fascinating focal designs. Wire-Wrapped Jewelry Techniques teaches 30 expert wire wrapping methods, such as forming bent-wire links, working a wrapping pattern, wrapping sequential layers, embellishing decorative loops, adding coil elements, and much more. This comprehensive guide to wire wrap jewelry includes 8 step-by-step projects for stunning necklaces, pendants, brooches, hairpins and earrings.

Leseprobe

Acknowledgements

I wish to extend my deepest thanks to Chris Reggio, Tiffany Hill, Colleen Dorsey, and Wendy Reynolds for their excellent work in creation, development, and refinement of this manuscript. As an author it is a wonderful experience to be working with such a well-skilled team.

© 2018 by Lora S. Irish and Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552.

Wire-Wrapped Jewelry Techniques is an original work, first published in 2018 by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc. The patterns contained herein are copyrighted by the author. Readers may make copies of these patterns for personal use. The patterns themselves, however, are not to be duplicated for resale or distribution under any circumstances. Any such copying is a violation of copyright law.

INFORMATION: All rights reserved. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied. WARNING: Due to the components used in these crafts, children under 8 years of age should not have access to materials or supplies without adult supervision. Under rare circumstances components of products could cause serious or fatal injury. Please read all safety warnings for the products being used. Neither Fox Chapel Publishing, the product manufacturer, or the supplier is responsible. NOTE: The use of products and trademark names is for informational purposes only, with no intention of infringement upon those trademarks.

Jacket background image by http://metal.graphics.

Print ISBN 978-1-56523-955-5

eSBN 978-1-60765-555-8

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Irish, Lora S., author.

Title: Wire-wrapped jewelry techniques / Lora S. Irish.

Description: Mount Joy, PA : Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 2018. |

  Includes index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2018018862 (print) | LCCN 2018019122 (ebook) | ISBN 9781607655558 (ebook) | ISBN 9781565239555

(softcover)

Subjects: LCSH: Jewelry making. | Wire jewelry.

Classification: LCC TT212 (ebook) | LCC TT212 .I75 2018 (print) | DDC

   745.594/2--dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov

To learn more about the other great books from Fox Chapel Publishing, or to find a retailer near you, call toll-free

800-457-9112 or visit us at www.FoxChapelPublishing.com.

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to

[email protected].

Because working with wire and other materials inherently includes the risk of injury and damage, this book cannot guarantee that creating the projects in this book is safe for everyone. For this reason, this book is sold without warranties or guarantees of any kind, expressed or implied, and the publisher and the author disclaim any liability for any injuries, losses, or damages caused in any way by the content of this book or the reader’s use of the tools needed to complete the projects presented here. The publisher and the author urge all readers to thoroughly review each project and to understand the use of all tools before beginning any project.

Introduction

Bent-wire jewelry links are all the rage in today’s necklace and bracelet designs. A little wire, a few simple tools, and some brightly colored beads are all you need to start creating your own fashion statements. By adding new wires to basic links with a technique called wire wrapping, you can alter simple links into complex, intriguing, and fascinating focal designs. Wire wrapping is a quick and easy technique to master that will take your jewelry craft to the next level. Throughout this book, some experience in jewelry craft and basic bent-wire link skills on the part of the reader are assumed. There are many excellent books and Internet tutorials available to beginning jewelry crafters that will give a new hobbyist a strong foundation in the basic skills.

In this book, you’ll learn how to:

• Add texture using tightly packed wire-wrapped coils

• Add a grunge look using random, loosely packed twists and turns

• Add bead clusters anywhere on a bent-wire link

• Secure free-floating arms or anchor open hoops in a bent-wire link

• Experiment with wire-wrapped coils and beaded wires

• Create woven patterns, working a wrapping wire through several arms of a bent-wire link

• Create connecting loops on bent-wire links to add side chains

• And more!

What Is a Bent-Wire Link?

Quite simply, a bent-wire link, or simply a link, is a kind of jewelry-making “unit” that is made by manipulating wire into a specific shape or design. A link can be simple or complex, large or small. The idea of this book is to learn how to create links that you then decorate with wire wrapping and incorporate as elements of finished jewelry. The bent-wire link itself is the basic unit before any wrapping is added.

Contents

Chapter 1: Materials

Wire

Tools

Beads

Chapter 2: Getting Started

Wire-Wrapping Terms and Structure

Varying Visual Effects with One Bent-Wire Link

Basic Bent-Wire Shapes

Technique 1: Forming Bent-Wire Links

Wrapping Basics

Chapter 3: Techniques

General Wrapping

Technique 2: Tightly Packed Wrapping

Technique 3: Loosely Packed Wrapping

Technique 4: Cluster Wrap

Technique 5: Random Loose Wrap

Working with Beads

Technique 6: Random Loose Beaded Wrap

Technique 7: Wire-Wrapped Caged Beads

Technique 8: Wire-Wrapped Bead Dangles

Technique 9: Adding Beads to Wrapping Wire

Technique 10: Wire-Wrapped Bead Clusters

Technique 11: Wrapping with a Beaded Wire

Wrapping Patterns

Technique 12: Working a Wrapping Pattern

Technique 13: Wrapping Patterns with Multiple Arms

Technique 14: Adding Beads to a Wrapping Pattern

Technique 15: Woven Wrapping Patterns

Technique 16: Wrapping with a Coil

Adding Elements

Technique 17: Adding a Coil Element

Technique 18: Adding Half-Circle Coil Elements

Technique 19: Adding a Bent Loop

Technique 20: Adding Multiple Bent Loops

Technique 21: Adding a Beaded Wire

Technique 22: Adding a Looped Wire

Technique 23: Embellishing Decorative Loops

Securing and Adding Arms

Technique 24: Securing Free-Floating Arms

Technique 25: Adding a Bending Wire

Technique 26: Adding Multiple Bending Wires

Technique 27: Separately Securing Wire Arm Ends

Special Techniques

Technique 28: Wrapping Sequential Layers

Technique 29: Hiding Securing Wires with Beads

Technique 30: Filling a Space

Chapter 4: Projects

Sunset Pendant

Spring Fling Hoop Earrings

Snail Trail Necklace

Kristen Necklace and Earrings Set

Tumbleweed Earrings

Salsa Necklace

Victorian Hot-Air Balloon Pendant

Coiled Hairpin

Technique Quick Reference

About the Author

Chapter 1

Materials

Wire, of course, is the main material needed for any wire-wrapped jewelry project. For the projects and samples in this book, I have used copper wire as the main link wire. A few essential tools are needed to create bent-wire links and to add wire-wrapped accents. A basic toolkit will include wire cutters, straight pliers, round-nose pliers, nylon-grip pliers, and some kind of file; there are also a lot of additional specialty tools that can come in handy. In addition, a variety of beads can add colorful accents to wire-wrapped jewelry. With this collection of basic items, you will be able to make amazing creations. Read on for all the nitty-gritty details about wire, tools, and beads.

Wire

Jewelry wire comes in a variety of metals and coated metals, such as gold-filled, gold-plated, sterling silver, silver-plated, brass, colored copper, copper, and color-coated aluminum.

Wire is measured by gauge, where the higher the gauge, the thinner the diameter of the wire.

For making links, use thick gauges from 12 (very thick) to 18 (less thick). Wrapping wires are normally worked using thinner gauges, from 20 (thin) to 24 (very thin).

Copper wire is a favorite for modern bent-link jewelry and wire-wrapped jewelry. Available in round, half-round, and square, it is easy to bend and form into almost any shape. It’s also great for the beginner and intermediate jewelry crafter because it is inexpensive and available in a wide range of color coatings. Throughout this book, we will be using copper wire; however, any technique taught in this book can be worked with any metal wire.

WIRE GAUGE

Wire thickness is measured in gauge, with smaller numbers denoting thicker wire. In this image, copper wires of four different gauges were wrapped around a 1¼" (3cm)–wide medicine bottle to create identically-sized hoop links. From top to bottom, the gauges used are 14, 16, 18, and 20. All four hoop links are wrapped using 28-gauge wire.

While any link can be created from wire of any gauge, in general, for the projects in this book, 14-, 16-, and 18-gauge wire is used as the main link wire, as these gauges create thick, strong forms. 20-, 24-, and 32-gauge wire is used throughout the projects for the wire-wrapping steps, as thinner wire is more flexible when woven through the bends of the links.

Most jewelry wire is packaged and sold with a US gauge size and a UK millimeter size, but just in case you’re in the UK and don’t have the US gauge, here is a quick reference chart of US gauge and its equivalent millimeter size.

Gauge

Millimeters

12

2mm

14

1.6mm

16

1.3mm

18

1mm

20

0.8mm

22

0.6mm

24

0.5mm

26

0.4mm

28

0.3mm

30

0.25mm

32

0.2mm

The woven necklace pendant shown here at left is worked using 18-gauge wire for the main bent-wire link and the added bending wires. 22-gauge wire is used to wrap the link as well as to create the bead dangles. The spiral necklace shown here at right is created using extra-thick 12-gauge wire. The wire wrapping is worked in 18-gauge wire—the same gauge used to create the link of the woven necklace pendant.

RECOMMENDED TYPES OF WIRE

While you can, of course, buy wire through jewelry supply stores and craft stores, copper, brass, aluminum, and stainless steel wire are also commonly available at your local hardware store or from online hardware suppliers. You can also purchase large quantities of wire (in 1-pound spools) online through marketplaces such as Amazon and eBay. All four of these types of wire make wonderful jewelry while remaining inexpensive enough that you can freely practice, experiment, and play before moving on to work with more expensive wire like silver or gold wire.

Copper wire is considered a soft wire and can easily be bent using just the pressure of your fingers. After the link is created, it can be tempered by lightly tapping the link for about one minute with a no-mar hammer. This example uses 18-gauge copper wire for the link with 24-gauge copper wrapping wire.

Brass wire is very hard and needs even, strong pressure to create smooth bends. Brass does not tarnish and retains its bright yellow tone for years. Try using 18- and 24-gauge brass wire, as shown in this example.

Aluminum wire is available in a range of hardnesses, from very soft craft wire to harder hardware wire. This example uses exclusively 20-gauge aluminum wire.

Stainless steel wire is a hard wire that can be bent using jewelry tools and a little extra pressure. The metal does not tarnish over time, retaining its bright appearance. The example shown here uses 18-gauge stainless steel wire for the link with 24-gauge copper wrapping wire.

Copper

Brass

Stainless steel

Aluminum

Tools

WIRE CUTTERS

Several kinds of wire cutters can serve different purposes. If you only have a budget for one wire cutter, make it a flush cutter.

1 The inner face of a flush cutter is V-shaped to create a sharp cutting edge. The outer face is flush, which leaves a flat, smooth cut on the end of the wire. Plus, the fine tips of a flush cutter allow you to reach into tight spaces. These cutters leave the cleanest, flattest end cut to a wire.

2 The outer face of an end cutter is curved so that only the cutting edge touches the wire. This tool allows you to clip the wrapped loops parallel to the main wire.

3Side cutters are heavy-duty cutting tools, able to handle thick-gauge wire, like 16-gauge and thicker, easily.

The flat, outer side of a pair of flush cutters is placed against the jewelry piece, with the V-shaped inner cutting edge facing away from the finished project.

Side cutters have a very deep V-shape on the inner cutting edge. The outer edge also carries this V-shape. The final cut will carry the V-shape and may need extra sanding to smooth the cut wire end.

STRAIGHT PLIERS

Straight pliers ensure you keep a firm grip on the wire you’re working with. You should have a pair of chain-nose pliers as well as a pair of bent-nose pliers.

4Chain-nose pliers are available with smooth inner gripping surfaces or finely textured inner surfaces that give greater gripping power. Be careful, though: textured inner surfaces can leave fine scratches on the wire.

5 This particular pair of chain-nose pliers includes a handy side cutter at the base of the pliers’ arms, allowing it to do double duty.

6Bent-nose pliers have special curved noses that allow them to get into tight, hard-to-reach areas. Like chain-nose pliers, they are available with smooth or textured gripping surfaces.

The flat inner surface of any pair of straight pliers allows you to create crisp, angular bends, like the right-angle bend shown here.

Bent-nose pliers have curved noses that can allow for a more flexible grip and angle of approach for tricky wraps.

ROUND-NOSE PLIERS

Round-nose pliers allow you to create perfect round shapes and curves because both arms are cone-shaped to provide a graduated surface on which you can bend circular elements. If you only have a budget for one pair of round-nose pliers, make it a medium-sized, smooth pair.

7Smooth-surfaced round-nose pliers do not mar or damage the wire as you turn loops.

8Textured round-nose pliers have cone-shaped arms that are textured with a fine grit pattern. The extra texture makes bending heavy-gauge wires easy, but can potentially mar delicate metals.

9 Round-nose pliers are available in a variety of sizes—from extra small for creating tiny jump rings, like this pair, to extra large for creating miniature hoops.

Where you position the wire in the graduated, cone-shaped arms of a pair of round-nose pliers will determine the diameter of the circle you are creating. Close to the tip results in smaller loops; close to the base results in larger loops.

Round-nose pliers can be used to create U-bends, end loops, and mid-wire circles (as shown here).

NYLON-GRIP PLIERS

10 A pair of nylon-grip pliers will make working with spooled wire frustration-free, and is an essential part of your toolkit. These straight, wide-armed pliers have a nylon pad that prevents the pliers from scarring the wire. Whenever you use a new wire, pull it through a pair of nylon pliers first to ensure that the working wire is straight and without the small bends that naturally occur from being wrapped on the spool. Roll off a length of wire from the spool, grip the wire close to the spool with the pliers, and then pull the pliers to the end of the wire.

As you can see on this pair of pliers, on some nylon-grip pliers the nylon pads can be replaced if the pads become damaged over time.

Because of their extra-wide surface, nylon-grip pliers are perfect for gripping very large curves, spirals, and bends as you work jewelry links.

FILES, HAMMERS, AND ANVILS

Some kind of file is essential for ensuring your jewelry is clean and polished. Hammers and anvils, while not essential, will allow you to diversify the effects you create in your jewelry pieces.

11Sandpaper, nail files, and metal files are a great part of any jewelry kit. Use them to remove the small wire burrs that can occur when a wire is cut and to smooth the ends of cut wires.

12Ball-peen hammers have a slight curve to the hammer’s face that allows you to evenly bend a wire into three-dimensional shapes as well as flatten wire into varying thickness. Ballpeen hammers leave small indents, giving a textured finish to the flattened wire.

13Jeweler’s anvils only measure about 3" (7.5cm) long. The top anvil pictured here has a textured surface that adds small, fine indents to hammered wire. The second anvil is smooth-surfaced.

14 A no-mar hammer has a dense, smooth plastic head that leaves no scratches, lines, or indents in hammered metal.

Visual texture is an important part of wire-wrapped jewelry. You can add extra texture to wire links by laying the wire link on an anvil and then tapping the link with a ball-peen or no-mar hammer.

WIRE-WRAPPING SPECIALTY TOOLS

There are a variety of specialty tools designed just for making wire-wrapped jewelry. These are fun additions to any jeweler’s toolkit, but are not strictly necessary for the techniques you will be learning in this book.

15Wire-wrapping pliers have one flat, straight arm and one cone-shaped arm. This tool makes perfect small loops as well as square-angled bends.

16Looping pliers have one cone-shaped arm and one concave arm into which the cone-shaped arm fits. You can create perfect half-circle U-bends and loops with this tool.

17Stepped mandrel pliers also have a concave arm into which the stepped circular arm fits. The stepped arm allows you to control the size of loops, jump rings, and split rings very precisely. It is easy and quick to create a set of rings of exactly the same size using these pliers.

18 Many of the glass beads that are used in wire-wrapped jewelry are manufactured on nichrome wires coated with kiln wash to prevent the hot glass from adhering to the nichrome wire. A bead reamer is used to clean that kiln wash layer from the hole of a bead, making the center of the bead brighter and clearer in color. Beam reamers are small, thin metal cones that have a textured surface. Slide a reamer into a bead hole and gently file away any kiln wash inside the hole. You may find that beads can crack during the bead reaming process. However, those beads often were initially cracked during the glass-blowing process, and it was only the kiln wash that kept the bead from breaking. By cleaning the inside of glass beads before you use them, you can ensure that the beads will not succumb to their inherent flaws and break later during use.

19Long-nose pliers