Atsuko's Japanese Kitchen E-Book

Atsuko Ikeda

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2019

Beschreibung

"Expertly takes readers into a world of Japanese home cooking far from the austere precision of the sushi counter, or the late-night rush of the ramen-ya. . . .This welcome primer goes a long way toward making Japanese cooking accessible to home cooks curious but perhaps intimidated by the cuisine." Publishers Weekly Learn how to make the enigmatic and umami-rich comfort food of Japan, with over 75 recipes straight from Atsuko Ikeda's authentic yet modern Japanese Kitchen. Japanese home-cooking is full of comfort, but a version of comfort food that is stylish, mouth-watering and less unhealthy than most. For those who aspire to recreate the Japanese dishes enjoyed in restaurants or on holiday, and to discover even more about the secrets and techniques involved in Japanese home cooking, you are invited into Atsuko's Kitchen. Learn the subtle art of creating a balanced meal as demonstrated with an easy-to-follow infographic. Learn the basics, such as how to season food the Japanese way, how to prepare dashi stock and how to make variations on basic rice. Choose from the delicious array of main dishes you might be familiar with, such as chicken teriyaki, tonkatsu pork, beef tataki, gyoza, seared tuna with ponzu, vegetable tempura, okonomiyaki, grilled aubergine with sesame sauce, plus recipes from Atsuko's own family and modern creative repertoire. Also featuring 'izakaya' small plates for sharing and sumptuous modern desserts, there is Japanese comfort food for every occasion. With tips on how to present your dishes in the traditional way, anecdotes and cultural explanations of dishes, discover the secrets of Japanese home-cooking for yourself.

Leseprobe

ATSUKO’S

JAPANESE

KITCHEN

ATSUKO’S

JAPANESE

KITCHEN

HOME-COOKED COMFORT FOOD MADE SIMPLE

ATSUKO IKEDA

Photography by YUKI SUGIURA

Senior Designer Megan Smith

Design Assistance Emily Breen

Commissioning Editor Alice Sambrook

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Production Controller Mai-Ling Collyer

Publisher Cindy Richards

Food Stylist Atsuko Ikeda

Prop Stylist Alexander Breeze

Indexer Hilary Bird

Illustrator Risa Sano/Mentsen

Published in 2019 by

Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 East 116th Street

New York, NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © Atsuko Ikeda 2019

Design, illustration and commissioned photography © Ryland Peters & Small 2019

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

eISBN: 978-1-78879-248-6 ISBN 978-1-78879-081-9

A CIP record for this book is available from the Brisih Library. US Library of Congress CIP data has been applied for.

Printed in China

NOTES

• Both British (Metric) and American (Imperial plus US cups) measurements are included in these recipes for your convenience. However it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.

• When following a recipe which uses raw fish, always ensure you buy sashimi-quality ingredients and use on the day of purchase. Raw fish or meat should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems, without medical advice.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

CONTENTS

MY JAPANESE KITCHEN

REGIONAL DISHES

THE SECRETS OF JAPANESE CUISINE

SMALL DISHES FOR SHARING

SOUPS & NOODLES

EASY ONE-PLATE MEALS

SPECIAL OCCASION MEALS

SIDES & DRESSINGS

DESSERTS

INDEX

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

MY JAPANESE KITCHEN

Japanese food is now one of the most popular cuisines in the world. In 2006, there were 24,000 Japanese restaurants around the globe, and by 2016, it had nearly quadrupled to 89,000! However, it is a cuisine still widely misunderstood. For most, it revolves around sushi, ramen, curry or miso soup… but it is so much more than that! Japan has an incredible variety of cuisines depending on its regions, but also such an interesting food culture. With subtle influence from foreign dishes over the centuries, it has adopted and refined them to make them its own. As you read through the recipes in this book, you’ll hopefully enjoy recognizing some of the global influences!

I have been running my cooking classes in London for over 10 years now. I started doing so after feeling slightly homesick, living so far away from Japan. I really missed the food I grew up with, its flavours, the way we eat and the ceremony of it. So I decided to change this feeling of emptiness into something positive. Starting my cooking classes made me feel more connected to my roots and actually allowed me to understand them even better. Helping my students to grasp the essence of Japanese cuisine and become confident using Japanese products has been a two-way relationship. Thanks to my students, I now understand exactly what can be intimidating about Japanese cuisine, and the major points of difference between this and Western cooking. With this in mind, I have developed an approach to teaching that makes even novice cooks feel at ease after a bit of practice. This is what I want to share with you in this book.

I was told by some students that they had tried understanding Japanese food by studying books, but it’s really only after completing my beginners’ course that they ‘got it’, and felt confident cooking Japanese food at home. I wanted this book to work in a similar way. The goal is for you to understand the concept behind Japanese food, and to learn about dishes that have been cooked regularly in Japanese households for decades and sometimes centuries. I will give you inside tips and help you to make these dishes methodically, until eventually you won’t need any recipes or measurements to create your own Japanese meals! It’s about you acquiring essential knowledge and a few skills, in a fun and interesting way. Before you know it, you’ll be able to cook a balanced and delicious Japanese meal, without feeling like you’re about to climb Mount Fuji!

Atsuko’s Japanese Kitchen is a condensé of more than 10 years of my cooking classes. I have included all the tried and tested recipes loved by my students and clients. In the first pages, I introduce you to the basic principles of Japanese cuisine, essential ingredients and equipment for your kitchen and the Japanese way of planning a meal with its different components. The book is then separated in chapters corresponding to these components (mains, sides etc…), so that you can choose from them depending on your occasion. Some of these recipes are very traditional, handed down through generations of my family, and others I have added a modern twist to. Hopefully, together they form a cookbook that you and your family will always go back to.

REGIONAL DISHES

Japan is home to eight major regions and 47 prefectures, from the islands of Okinawa in the south west, to Hokkaido in the north east, each with their own traditions and specialties. Being so expansive, Japan has a wide range of climates and landforms. One way to comprehend this is to follow the blossoming of the famous cherry blossoms or ‘sakura’. The milder the climate, the earlier the blossoms open. So blossom season sweeps up the country from south to north, starting in sub-tropical Okinawa in late January, and making its way up to Hokkaido in mid-to-late May. Such variety in climate creates a diversity of agriculture dependant on the region, and with this its own cuisine and regional specialties otherwise known as ‘Kyodo ryori’.

The KYUSHU REGION, where I am from, is the third largest island of Japan, located in the south west. It’s the top producer of premium grade Japanese kurobuta (black pork), which you can find in local dishes such as Buta No Kakuni (page 134) or Tonkotsu Ramen (page 84). It has an interesting history, being the only Japanese gateway for trade with Korea and China, but also Portugal and the Netherlands, from the 17th until the 19th century. Kyushu’s cuisine has various multicultural influences, for example Portuguese references in the Tempura (page 88) or Chicken Nanban (page 125). Mizutaki Nabe (page 128) is the pride of the port city of Hakata. The region is also famous for ‘shochu’, a distilled beverage.

SHIKOKU is the smallest of the four main islands, but it is not short of culinary delicacies. The local sanuki udon noodles are characteristically thick and springy and can be eaten in various ways from cold with a dipping sauce, to hot in a broth. Shikoku and its warm climate also lends itself to the cultivation of yuzu, the fragrant citrus fruit found in Yuzu Ponzu Dressing (page 168) among many other recipes.

The western KANSAI REGION has long been famous for its cuisine, and most of the Japanese dishes known around the world come from there. The savoury pancakes Okonomiyaki (page 65) are a staple in Kansai cooking, alongside the Kushikatsu skewers (page 52). In Kyoto and Nara prefectures, with their abundance of Buddhist temples, you’ll also find delicate vegetarian dishes using tofu like Yudofu (page 129). The refreshing Hiyashi Somen (page 74) also come from this region, as well as the sweet and sticky dessert Mitarashi Dango (page 180).

The CHUGOKU REGION, located on the western part of the main Honshu island, also has some unforgettable delicacies such as the infamous poisonous fugu blowfish. Fugu is an expensive gourmet dish in Japan, and only a select guild authorized by the government of the city is allowed to prepare the dish.

The CHUBU REGION is the alpine region of Japan, located in the centre of Honshu. Some of the best agricultural producers can be found there, from soybean farms and miso production (used in Miso Soups, pages 76–77 and Nasu Dengaku, page 41) in Aichi to Niigata’s top Koshihikari rice brand and sake.

The KANTO REGION is home to Tokyo as well as six other prefectures, all with their own distinct, delicious foods. Kanagawa, for example, is famous for its Katsu Curry (page 103) which has a sweet flavour and stew-like texture, very different from Indian or East Asian curry. It’s also important to note the culinary battle between the Kanto and Kansai regions, Kanto-style Chirashizushi (page 112) is made with raw fish, unlike in the Kansai region, for example and the Kanto-style Sukiyaki Hot Pot (page 133), tends to be stronger in flavour than the Kansai-style.

TOHOKU is Honshu’s remote and lush northern region, home to a multitude of delicacies such as the buckwheat soba noodles (page 92), with their toasted nutty flavours and many nabe hot pot dishes.

The country’s northernmost prefecture, HOKKAIDO offers a wide variety of vegetables, seafood and surprisingly for Japan… dairy products! During autumn in Sapporo, the wild salmon return from the ocean to the Toyohira river. This prized salmon is found in many dishes such as the Chan Chan Yaki (page 142). Finally, some of the best kombu seaweed, the base of Dashi (page 23), is mainly harvested in different locations in Hokkaido.

THE SECRETS OF JAPANESE CUISINE

THE GOLDEN RULE OF FIVE

When it comes to cooking a meal at home, how do you decide on what to make? Do you focus on seasonality or do you just use what’s left in your fridge? Do you listen to what your body needs or do you give in to cravings? Sometimes the menu will depend on whether you are cooking for friends or family.

I’ll let you into a little secret: whether you are cooking for one or 10 people, the most important thing to bear in mind is the perfect balance of the meal. This has been at the core of the philosophy of Japanese cuisine for centuries. In Japan, we’ve been following the magic ‘rule of 5’, which has been passed on through generations. This rule has created a population of healthy people with good appetites! The golden rule of five is very easy to follow, and even easier to remember: the perfectly balanced meal should have gomi) – five tastes, (goshoku) – five colours and (gohou) – be prepared with five different cooking methods. This practical method of planning a meal truly helps you to have a balanced diet in your everyday life.

One final tip for you, be mindful of how much you eat. We have a saying in Japan that goes ‘hara hachi bu’, which means ‘eat until your stomach is 80% full’. It will give you enough sustainable energy until your next meal, but your mind will remain sharp and clear without the feeling of tiredness you get from being overly full.

FIVE TASTES

The theory is, that if these tastes are all present in a meal, you won’t have cravings because all the satisfactory flavours are already here. Japanese cuisine relies on six essential seasonings, representing the five tastes: soy sauce, miso, mirin, sake, rice vinegar and umami-rich dashi (see page 16). They are used to season most Japanese dishes. Spices can be added as a condiment to give extra vibrancy, but this is not considered necessary in Japanese cuisine. To put this into practice, choose a main dish with a dominant taste, then think of side dishes that offer the other missing tastes. This will balance the flavours in your main dish.

FIVE COLOURS

The idea behind this is to include a range of five ingredients in different colours in your meal. There are two main reasons for this: firstly, eating a rainbow of foods will provide you with a wide range of essential nutrients and minerals needed throughout your day. If you eat a moderate amount of every food group, you can be sure you are getting the nutrients you need! Secondly, on an aesthetic level, you eat with your eyes first. Food should be enjoyed with all your senses, and sight is very important in Japanese cuisine. The visual enjoyment of your meal will make it more appetizing!

FIVE COOKING METHODS

Think of an egg – there are many ways to cook it, and the eating experience can be so different considering you are starting with just the one same ingredient. Using a variation of these five cooking methods in a meal creates pleasing contrasts in texture. Fresh raw vegetables will be crunchy, while fried tempura will be crispy, boiled ingredients will be tender, etc. Mixing and matching these cooking methods will ensure the meals you serve will never be bland.

HOW TO PLAN YOUR MEAL

A full traditional Japanese meal usually consists of five components: rice, a soup, a main and one or more side dishes, including some pickled vegetables. In every day cooking, this can be pared back to a main with some rice and soup and you can, of course, only have one dish if you don’t feel that hungry or if you want to make something quick. If so, go for a ‘One-plate meal’ (pages 94–115). If you decide to eat the proper Japanese way with its five components, let me guide you on how to build your menu. First, decide on your main. Then, choose the other dishes to balance out your main. For example, if your main is a miso or soy-based dish, choose something sour like pickles as a side, or something refreshing like a leafy salad mixed with seaweed to balance out the saltiness of your main. The idea is to have your five tastes and five colours (see pages 10–11) represented in your menu. So after choosing your main, work by elimination to find the missing tastes and colours to pick your other dishes.

EATING IN A TRIANGLE WAY

In Western cuisine, you might have three courses: appetizer, main and dessert, which are eaten one by one.

The basic formula for a traditional Japanese meal is rice, soup, a main and some side dishes, including pickled vegetables. Unlike in western countries, we serve our dishes together on one tray and eat them in a triangle way. By this, I mean, first, sip a little soup to wet your mouth, then eat some rice with some of the dishes on the tray like some sweet and salty teriyaki. All the various flavours and textures then harmonize in your mouth. You might cleanse your palate with the refreshing acidity of the pickles and then start again with the miso soup… and don’t forget to say ‘itadakimasu’ before you eat!

SAMPLE MEAL PLANNER

SAMPLE COOKING TIMELINE

5 JAPANESE CHOPSTICK MANNERS YOU SHOULD KNOW

Manners are of great cultural importance to Japanese people, and chopstick manners in particular are something you can easily learn and practice. If you are lucky enough to visit Japan, having a little knowledge about local manners is very important to show your respect, and it will deepen your experience as a tourist. Or, even if you are just eating in a Japanese restaurant or sharing a meal with Japanese friends, colleagues or clients, it is nice to show off your education of their culture. Some of the rules may not make sense to you, but each culture in the world has its own set of unique traditions for different reasons. Do bear in mind that chopstick manners may differ from culture to culture, and in China and Korea the chopstick rules are different. These are my top five easy Japanese rules to remember:

1. DO NOT TRANSFER FOOD FROM ONE PERSON’S CHOPSTICKS TO ANOTHER.

This is reserved for funerals, when the cremated bone is ritually transferred by two people with their chopsticks to an urn.

2. DO NOT HOLD CHOPSTICKS LIKE A KNIFE AND FORK.

I often see people in restaurants holding their chopsticks, one in each hand, and using them to saw through food as if they were a knife and fork. This is not elegant! If the piece of food is too large for you to eat in one go, simply use your chopsticks to break it by keeping the chopsticks together in one hand and sinking them down into the food to gently divide it into bite-sized pieces. It is also totally acceptable to ask a waiter to provide you with a knife and fork. However, skilled chefs should be aware of how their food is eaten, and should serve dishes that are not a battle to eat!

3. DO REVERSE YOUR CHOPSTICKS WHEN PICKING UP FOOD FROM COMMUNAL DISHES.

Take food from shared serving dishes using separate serving utensils or reverse your chopsticks and use the clean end, you can then wipe off the used end with a clean cloth or napkin. Place the food on your own bowl or serving plate before eating it.

4. DO NOT STICK YOUR CHOPSTICKS VERTICALLY INTO RICE OR FOOD.

This is an absolute NO at the table, as it is associated with death. This is the way one offers a bowl of rice to a dead person in front of their photograph at the Buddhist altar.

5. DO USE A CHOPSTICK REST PROPERLY.

When your chopsticks are not being used, put the pointed ends on a chopstick rest with them in front and parallel to you. If you are right-handed, put the tips on the left-hand side and if you are left-handed, put the tips on the right-hand side.

ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS

There is huge variety in Japanese cuisine, and people often wonder how the complex umami flavours are achieved. In fact, you can make hundreds of Japanese dishes with little more than the five essential seasonings listed below: soy sauce, mirin, sake, rice vinegar and miso, which no Japanese pantry should be without. These ingredients encompass the five tastes that we crave (see page 10), so you will always feel satisfied after eating a meal. I have also listed below some other key Japanese ingredients used frequently throughout this book, that you may or may not be familiar with. Once you understand how to use these ingredients, you will have the tools you need to begin cooking!

5 ESSENTIAL SEASONINGS

1. SHOYU (SOY SAUCE)

Made of fermented soybeans, wheat and salt, shoyu or soy sauce is used in almost every Japanese meal. There are three main kinds of Japanese soy sauce: koikuchi (dark soy sauce) is by far the most common, and is therefore simply referred to as ‘soy sauce’ throughout this book. Usukuchi or light soy sauce has more salt added, so it tastes a bit saltier but less fermented than dark soy sauce. Its paler colour won’t darken the colour of your natural ingredients so much. For a wheat-free option, choose tamari soy sauce, which is also the richest in texture and flavour.

2. MIRIN (SWEET RICE WINE)

Also called ‘hon mirin’ (real mirin), this is a sweet sake used for seasoning many dishes, such as teriyaki sauce and stews. It is made from steamed rice, rice koji (cultured rice) and alcohol, and its delicate natural sweetness develops during the fermentation process. It is good for using in glazes that require a sweet-sticky finish. Because of its wine-like alcohol content, mirin should be cooked off over a high heat to burn off the alcohol. If you prefer a non-alcoholic option, alcohol-free mirin is also available.

3. SAKE (RICE WINE)

Just like wine in the West, sake can be enjoyed both as an alcoholic drink (see page 31) and used as a cooking ingredient. It removes strong smells from fish, seafood and meat but also helps other flavours in the dish to penetrate. If you aren’t sure which to use, specialist cooking sake is available (just like cooking wine), which is normally seasoned with salt.

4. SU (RICE VINEGAR)

Rice vinegar is the most common vinegar in Japan, but brown rice or grain vinegars are also available. Rice vinegar has a mild flavour, a low acidity and is pale yellow in colour. It is essential for ponzu, dipping sauce for gyoza and in sweet and sour dishes. It is also used as sushi vinegar.

5. MISO (FERMENTED SOYBEAN PASTE)

Miso is a deeply savoury, intense fermented paste made from soybeans and sea salt combined with koji culture (a mould starter). There are many different types of miso available (see page 26). It’s an essential seasoning in soups, marinades, dressings and more.

OTHER SEASONINGS

6. NERI GOMA (SESAME PASTE)

Nutty and aromatic, both black and white sesame seeds are frequently used in Japanese cuisine. Japanese sesame paste is similar to tahini, but is normally made with unhulled sesame seeds (whereas tahini is usually made with hulled). The seeds also tend to be roasted for longer, giving a nuttier taste. This paste is used in many dressings and sauces.

7. SHIO KOJI (FERMENTED RICE KOJI & SALT)

This is a fermented seasoning made of rice koji, salt and water. It can be used to pickle vegetables or to marinade, enhance the flavour of and tenderize fish and meat. You can buy shio koji in liquid or paste form, but making it at home has become hugely popular in Japan as it is so simple to prepare.

8. UMEBOSHI (SALTED PICKLED PLUMS)

Umeboshi are tart and salty pickled plums, which had medicinal uses in ancient times, but have now become everyday food in Japan. Umeboshi products also include liquid seasonings or purées.

9. SHICHIMI (JAPANESE SPICE MIX)

A blend of seven ingredients, typically comprising of ground red chilli/chili pepper, sansho pepper, dried orange zest, sesame seeds, hemp seeds, green nori flakes and dried ginger. This can be sprinkled on noodle soups, grilled meat and rice bowl dishes.

10. YUZU KOSHO (YUZU & CITRUS CHILLI PASTE)

A paste made from yuzu zest, green chilli/chili and salt, this is usually served as a condiment.

11. YUZU JUICE

The yuzu has an aromatic, tangy flavour that is distinct from any other citrus fruit, somewhat akin to a cross between grapefruit and lime. It is famously used in the Yuzu Ponzu Dressing (see page 168).

SEAWEED & MUSHROOMS

12. WAKAME SEAWEED

Dark green in colour, soft and mild in flavour, you might recognize this seaweed as the one you’d find floating in miso soup. Usually available dried, it can be quickly reconstituted in 5 minutes in water, added directly into hot soup or mixed into salads.

13. HIJIKI SEAWEED

This seaweed resembles a tea leaf when dried and looks like a black twig when reconstituted. Soak it in plenty of water for around 15 minutes and allow it to swell up to eight times its size before using. It has a crunchy texture and is rich in minerals and calcium.

14. KOMBU (KELP)

This seaweed is packed full of strong umami flavour, therefore its most important use is in dashi stock (see page 23), which is a base for many other dishes.

15. HOSHI SHIITAKE (DRIED SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS)

These are really valuable for the flavour-punch they pack, and are used in another variation of dashi stock (see page 24). They need to be reconstituted before use, or can be used after making the dashi.

RICE & NOODLES

16. KOME (RICE)

The staple carbohydrate in Japanese cuisine! See more information on methods on page 29.

17. SOBA (BUCKWHEAT) NOODLES

Soba noodles made with a combination of buckwheat and wheat flours are widely available. For a guaranteed gluten-free option, some brands (available in specialist Japanese or health stores) use 100% buckwheat, which gives a lovely nutty taste. Soba noodles are usually either served chilled with a dipping sauce, or in hot broth as a noodle soup.

UDON NOODLES

Thick and chewy wheat flour noodles, these are the most satisfying and filling type of noodles. Delicious in all manner of stir-fries and soups.

18. SOMEN NOODLES

Somen noodles are a thinner version of udon (wheat) noodles. They make a light, refreshing meal and cook in just 2 minutes.

RAMEN NOODLES

These thin wheat noodles with pleasing elasticity were originally imported from China, but have gone on to feature in some of the most iconic and well-loved dishes in Japanese cuisine.

19. SHIRATAKI (WHITE WATERFALL) NOODLES

The translation ‘white waterfall’, refers to the appearance of these noodles. They are made from the konnyaku vegetable. As the end product consists of 97% of water, they are known as ‘slim’ noodles. Their gelatinous texture works in stews and hot pots.

TOFU & OTHER

20. TOFU (BEAN CURD)

This super-versatile ingredient comes in two main types: firm and silken. Both are made from soybeans, nigari (a coagulant) and at least 90% water. Depending on the recipe, water sometimes needs to be pressed out before you use the tofu.

21. ABURAAGE (THINLY-SLICED DEEP-FRIED TOFU)

Aburaage is ready-prepared deep-fried tofu slices. They are deep-fried in oil until fluffy and swelled, then deep-fried again at a higher temperature to crisp the outer skin. Like pitta breads, you can cut them in half to create a pocket which is used for stuffing. Aburaage is most famously used to make inari sushi and in miso soup and salads.

KONNYAKU BLOCK

Made from 97% water and konnyaku (root vegetable) powder, this Japanese health food adds texture to meat-free dishes. It’s sold dried or in water, and can be white or brown (with added seaweed) in colour.

22. PANKO (JAPANESE BREADCRUMBS)

Panko are made from bread without crusts, which gives large, airy flakes that provide a light and crunchy coating. These are fantastic for chicken katsu, croquettes and even stuffings.

23. KATAKURIKO (POTATO STARCH)

A fine starch extracted from potatoes, this is becoming more available in free-from stores. It is used for coating ingredients before frying, thickening soups and sauces, or dusting wagashi. It can be substituted for cornflour/cornstarch if needed.

24. KATSUOBUSHI (BONITO FLAKES)

Katsuobushi, translated as ‘bonito flakes’, is a dried, fermented and smoked bonito (a type of tuna fish) which is shaved into flakes. This umami-rich ingredient is mostly used to make dashi stock (see page 24) or as a pretty topping for okonomiyaki.

USEFUL TOOLS

1. DONABE (EARTHENWARE COOKING POT)

A traditional Japanese earthenware pot, donabes are useful for cooking hot pots, stews, soups and rice. Because they are made from a special type of clay, these pots can withstand high temperatures and can be set over an open flame (though they can’t be used with electric or induction hobs/stove-tops). Donabes build heat slowly, just like a slow cooker. Perfect for a family or group gathering, meals are often cooked in a donabe on the dining table over a portable gas stove. After the dish is cooked, we place the donabe on a round straw mat to avoid burning the table and serve the food straight from the pot.

2. OTOSHI BUTA (DROP-LID)

Useful for many of the stews in this book, a drop-lid sits directly on top of ingredients while they are simmering. It helps to prevent food from drying out as it cooks, and keeps fragile ingredients from breaking apart. It also distributes heat evenly to the dish as it is cooking and lets seasonings more easily penetrate. Drop-lids are usually made out of wood, and should be slightly smaller in diameter than the saucepan you are using.

If you haven’t got one, you can make a disposable drop-lid using a sheet of greaseproof paper: take a big piece of greaseproof paper and cut it into a square. Fold the lower left corner over to its opposite corner to make a triangle. Rotate the triangle anti-clockwise to have the longer side facing you. Fold the left corner onto the right corner to make another smaller triangle. Now fold the right corner onto the upper corner and repeat once more. You should end up with a skinny triangle that looks almost like a paper plane (see page 21).