Sushi Made Simple E-Book

Atsuko Ikeda

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2017

Beschreibung

A masterclass in sushi making from London-based teacher Atsuko, who combines authentic knowledge and skills with contemporary, innovative ideas to give 60 recipes for rolls, wraps, moulded and deconstructed sushi.

Leseprobe

SUSHI

MADE SIMPLE

ATSUKO IKEDA

SUSHI

MADE SIMPLE

From classic wraps and rolls to modern bowls and burgers

Photography by YUKI SUGIURA

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

TYPES OF SUSHI

TOOLS & INGREDIENTS

BASIC SUSHI TECHNIQUES

SUSHI ROLLS

TRADITIONAL MOULDED SUSHI

CREATIVE MOULDED SUSHI

DECONSTRUCTED SUSHI

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN SUSHI

INDEX

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

INTRODUCTION

With sushi restaurants opening and thriving in so many towns and cities, sushi has become an everyday food for many people. However, when you try to make something delicious at home that you have eaten in a restaurant, it can be difficult to work out how to do it properly and exactly which ingredients to use. With Sushi Made Simple you will learn just how to do this. In this, my first book, I would like to share with you the traditional skills of sushi-making, teach you authentic but modern recipes and explain some aspects of Japanese culture too.

I have been teaching Japanese cookery lessons for almost 10 years in Atsuko’s Kitchen – my cooking school in London – and sushi-making has always been one of my most popular classes. One of the things that surprises my students the most is how versatile sushi is: it can be quick and easy and perfect for a lunchbox, or more meticulous and time-consuming for a special occasion. They all leave the course amazed at what they have accomplished.

The secret to good sushi lies in its simplicity, and within this book I present new approaches to making sushi, with recipes using both traditional methods and techniques and modern variations. The book guides you step by step through the entire sushi-making process, from advising you on the essential tools to stocking your pantry and choosing ingredients. The basic techniques section shows you all the construction tricks, including preparing fish, cutting vegetables, cooking sushi rice and building the various types of sushi rolls.

I was born on the Japanese island of Kyushu – also known as the ‘food island’ – and I always loved food and cooking. My mother and grandmother were both good cooks and shared their knowledge with me. However, it was only when I left Japan and spent most of a year sailing across the Atlantic to the Galapagos Islands that this passion took on a new dimension: we fished every day and I started to give cooking classes wherever we stopped to people who initially thought of Japanese cuisine as arduous and tricky. When I began teaching in London in 2008, I wanted to take away the mystery of Japanese cuisine and show that with knowledge, guidance and practice, it can be made by all. I have taught thousands of students who now cook Japanese meals and make sushi at home, even including my Italian husband Michele who I met in my class at the very beginning of my teaching career. It has become my lifetime mission!

Enjoy the sushi journey throughout this book and I hope you will gain the confidence to experiment with your own sushi making.

TYPES OF SUSHI

THE THREE SUSHI PRINCIPLES

Finding the golden balance is paramount in making any dish. With sushi, you can create endless variations by combining sushi rice with different sorts of toppings or fillings. Bear in mind the following balance of three principles, as this will inspire ideas and make your sushi-making easy and successful!

COLOUR BALANCE

red, yellow, green, brown, white, black

Eat with your eyes! Rainbow colours or matching colours work well visually and add nutritional value. And most of all, you’ll enjoy playing with colours when creating your sushi.

FLAVOUR BALANCE

sweet, sour, salty, bitter, umami, spicy

Harmonise all these flavours in each mouthful for a satisfying meal. Different combinations of ingredients, and the choice of dipping sauces and other condiments, create the depth of flavours and the overall balance. Soy sauce and wasabi are probably the most well-known sauces and condiment, but there are plenty of others you can use.

TEXTURE BALANCE

crunchy, crisp, chewy, sticky, creamy, crumbly

So many textures make for so many sushi possibilities! Even adding some crunchy toppings will change your sushi experience!

TOOLS & INGREDIENTS

Thanks to the growing popularity of sushi, specialist sushi-making tools and cookware are now much easier to buy. Look in Japanese stores, cookware shops and online.

SUSHI-MAKING TOOLS

Wooden sushi mixing bowl

This is used when mixing rice with sushi vinegar to make sushi rice or adding other ingredients to make mixed rice dishes, such as chirashi sushi. The wood helps to maintain the moisture level of the rice, absorbing any excess moisture. Before using, wet the surface of the bowl to prevent the rice sticking to it. The wide, shallow shape allows the rice to cool quickly and be evenly seasoned. You could use a wide, shallow, glass or ceramic bowl, but avoid using metallic materials which may react with the vinegar.

Bamboo mat

This is the must-have item for your sushi making, especially for creating rolled sushi and egg omelettes. You will also need clingfilm (plastic wrap) for coating the mat, enabling you to roll inside-out rolls. Once you have used the mat, clean the surface and allow to dry thoroughly before storing. If grains of rice have become stuck in the mat, soak the mat in water to soften them and clean it with a fine brush, like a toothbrush. Plastic mats are also available.

Grater

The Japanese grater is designed a little differently to its European version. Instead of holes, it has fine raised spikes which allow the grated ingredient to remain on the surface of the grater. This allows fresh wasabi, ginger, garlic and radish to be turned into a brilliantly fine paste. Once you have tried using this grater, it will become an essential tool in your kitchen.

Peeler

You probably already have a peeler in your kitchen, but Japanese ones are the best. They are used for peeling carrots and asparagus, and also for thinly slicing cucumber and courgette (zucchini) for sushi rolls. There are other variations designed for cutting vegetables into julienne or matchsticks.

Brush

This is used for brushing the sauce on nigiri sushi. Rather than using a spoon or other tools, the brush can give an elegant glaze to the food. A pastry brush made with natural bristles makes a good alternative.

Cooking chopsticks

Using chopsticks for cooking Japanese food is very practical. They can be used for stirring, beating eggs, and so on. They are also useful for serving and adding the garnish toppings to sushi. Cooking chopsticks are much longer than the chopsticks for eating, to protect your hands away from the heat of cooking.

Sashimi knife (yanagiba)

A sharp knife is essential to good sushi. This long, slim knife is used for sashimi, or slicing fish fillets for sushi (see the knife tips on page 13). The blades are carbon steel, so wipe and dry after every use.

Round and square moulds

Used for moulding sushi cakes and sandwiches, and other creative and modern styles of sushi.

Square egg frying pan (skillet)

This is designed especially for making the square or rectangular rolled omelette used in sushi tamago (see page 36). In this pan, the egg omelette is made as a thin square omelette and rolled into a long rectangular shape in the pan during the cooking process using cooking chopsticks. Due to this distinctive cooking method, and the constant tilting of the pan during cooking, it is not suitable for use on induction hobs.

Cutters

At first glance these look like cupcake cutters, but they are designed for cutting vegetables (such as carrot and daikon) and are used to stunning effect in Japanese cuisine for toppings or garnishings.

Wooden rectangular mould

Pressed sushi is one of the much-loved classic types of sushi. This mould is for making rectangular sushi or oshi sushi (see page 87) and is perfect for building layers of rice and toppings such as fish or soboro (scrambled egg). The wooden tools for sushi should be soaked in water before use to prevent the rice from sticking, or alternatively line them with clingfilm (plastic wrap).

Fish bone tweezers

If you are preparing fish fillets from scratch, this is a vital little tool for removing bones. After filleting the fish, carefully run your finger over the fillet to detect any remaining bones. Pull out the bone in the direction that it protrudes to avoid damaging the fillet. Even if you buy filleted fish, you may find the odd bone, so this is a very handy tool to have in your kitchen.

KNIFE TIPS

Anyone serious about making sushi or who has started to prepare sashimi or sushi on a regular basis should buy a good-quality Japanese sashimi knife, or yanagiba.

I can assure you it is a lifetime investment, and you will be amazed by what a difference it will make. The yanagiba blade only has a cutting edge on one side (the other side is flat), so a left-handed knife is also available. These knives are incredibly sharp, allowing you to slice the fish cleanly and beautifully thin. The way to use these knives is different from using western knives. It takes a little practice to get used to it, but once you master it, it will save you time and money in your sushi preparation.

To cut across the fibre of the fish, draw the knife towards you in a smooth motion. Imagine you are playing the violin, making a beautiful sound by drawing the bow across its strings – not in a sawing motion! I think the movement of the knife should be as beautiful as playing the violin.

If preparing a large fish such as salmon, tuna or yellowtail (hamachi) for sashimi, place the fish horizontally with the thick side away from you. Position the edge of your knife at the edge of the fish and cut across the fibre of the fish by pressing down gently while drawing the knife towards you. Use the whole length of the blade from the bottom end to the tip to slice one fillet.

For slicing lengthways into a long stick (1 × 18 cm/½ × 7 in) for rolls, place the fillet vertically, angle the tip of the knife at the top of the fish and cut across the fibre of the fish by drawing the knife towards you.

For skinning the fish, place the fish skin-side down on the chopping board and insert the knife as close to the skin as possible from the tail end. Cut about 2-cm/¾-in deep and hold the knife almost parallel to the board. Pull the skin in the opposite direction to the knife blade, moving the knife forward to the top of the fish. Use one hand to hold the skin while moving the knife toward the top of the fish. For the salmon, I like to remove the brown part of the flesh just under the skin as well.

To care for the knife, always wash in warm water and dry thoroughly after use. Never put it in a dishwasher. Sharpening with a whetstone is ideal for Japanese knives.

SASHIMI-QUALITY FISH

It is essential to use only fresh fish when making sashimi and sushi. Talk to your fishmonger to ensure that the fish is fresh in and always ask for sashimi-quality fish, buying the best sashimi-grade fish that is available. Only buy fish on the day you are going to serve it.

It is very important that you yourself go to the fishmonger or fish market to see what is available for your sushi making – you may change your mind about which recipes to cook when you see what is for sale. Needless to say, the freshness of the fish is paramount for sushi- and sashimi-making. Raw fish should always be stored in the refrigerator and eaten within 24 hours of purchase.

The same fish will always differ a little in taste depending on which sea or ocean it has been caught in. In this book I have used salmon, sea bass, mackerel and tuna, all of which are widely available.

There are three kinds of tuna commonly used in sushi and sashimi – bluefin tuna (hon maguro), southern bluefin tuna (minami maguro) and bigeye tuna (mebachi). Tuna is called maguro in Japanese. As it is a big fish, it is usually divided into three categories. Akami is the back part of tuna which is the most familiar lean flesh with an intense ruby colour. Toro is the fatty belly part of tuna, and o-toro is the most prized, expensive part of tuna.

At the fishmonger, you will notice that big fish such as salmon or tuna are usually already prepared and presented in different cuts. The flesh has to be bright in colour and hydrated, but should never be broken or cloudy coloured. If you are not sure about it, always ask the fishmonger if your fillet of choice is of sashimi quality or if it can be eaten raw. He will guide you to the best and freshest fish and give you all the information you need. You will end up learning a lot about the different fish and their qualities through these experiences.

The photograph opposite shows how to cut your fish for the different types of sushi or sashimi you are making. The central part of the fish is not used for sushi as it is too stringy to be eaten raw (use it in cooked dishes instead). See page 13 for information on how to use your sashimi knife.

To check the freshness of a fish and its suitability for use in sushi, there are a few infallible guidelines:

• The eyes should be clear and plump.

• The body should be firm, plump, hydrated and shiny.

• The gills in particular are a great clue for checking for freshness – they should be bright red or pink.

• It is not common practice for customers to touch fish at the fishmonger, but don’t hesitate to ask for a closer look at the fish you are interested in buying.

• And last but not least, sniff the fish – if it has an unpleasant smell, you won’t want to eat it raw.

Government food safety agencies have issued guidelines for making your own sushi using raw fish, as occasionally raw fish may contain parasitic larvae. If wild fish are to be eaten raw or lightly cooked, ensure that all parts of the fish, especially the thickest parts, have been frozen for at least 4 days in a domestic freezer at -15ºC (5ºF) or colder. This will ensure that any undetected larvae are killed.

Before freezing, it is best to cut the fish into a block, then wrap in clingfilm (plastic wrap). To defrost, move the frozen fish to the fridge for 5–12 hours before use. Eat on the day of defrosting.

HOW TO CUT FISH

SEAFOOD

Japan was once said to be the world’s biggest consumer of prawns (shrimp), and unsurprisingly they are one of the most popular shellfish when making sushi. Other types of seafood that can be eaten raw include sea urchins, scallops, oysters and squid, all of which make good sushi toppings (always make sure you buy the best quality, suitable for sushi).

PRAWNS (SHRIMP)

There are many varieties of prawns available, from tiny shrimps to large tiger or king prawns (jumbo shrimp). The shells are usually dark grey in colour when raw, changing to pink during cooking. However, some species have pink shells even in their raw state.

If you are tempted to use raw prawns (shrimp) in sushi, always buy from a Japanese fishmonger and ensure you buy the best sashimi-quality. In the recipes that follow, I always use cooked prawns (shrimp).

How to prepare king prawns

This is the method I use for preparing king prawns (jumbo shrimp) for sushi, particularly for the sushi rolls. The prawns are stretched before cooking, and this technique stops the prawns (shrimp) from bending in on themselves during cooking, allowing them to be used for maki and nigiri.

Remove the head of the prawn (shrimp), but keep the shell on. To devein, insert a skewer at the tail, near the back of the prawn (shrimp). Carefully pull out the black vein. This will remove the black intestine without cutting the back of the prawn (shrimp).

Insert a 15-cm (6-in) wooden skewer from the head end along the belly to the tip. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Add the skewered prawns (shrimp) and cook for 2½ minutes, until the flesh turns white and the shells turn pink. Remove the prawns (shrimp) from the pan and dip immediately into a bowl of cold water to stop the cooking process.

When the prawns (shrimp) have cooled, remove from the bowl of water. Remove the skewer by turning it slowly and pulling it gently from the prawn (shrimp). Remove the shells.

To prepare prawns (shrimp) for nigiri, see page 94. For tempura prawns (shrimp), see page 59.

SCALLOPS

Scallops are one of my favourite shellfish. When raw, they have a beautiful sweet flavour and a creamy, silky texture that will melt in your mouth like gelato! To prepare them as sashimi, always purchase hand-dived live scallops in their shells, buying the best sashimi-quality available from specialist fishmongers. Sashimi-quality frozen scallops are also available from Japanese stores.

How to prepare scallops

These are used in the nigiri recipe on page 95. To shell scallops, place the scallop flat side up, with a dish towel underneath to support the shell. Insert an oyster knife at the hinge and carefully open the shell (you could ask your fishmonger to do this for you).

Cut the muscle attached to the flat side of the shell, then use your fingers to separate its frilly skirt and coral from the scallop. Discard the black gut. Use a knife to remove the scallop from the shell. Rinse in cold water, then slice across the fibre.

YOUR SUSHI PANTRY

You may not be so familiar with some of these ingredients, but they are used in many types of sushi. Some are available from supermarkets, but others may need to be sourced from Japanese food stores or online.

Nori

A sheet of roasted seaweed, this is one of the most important ingredients for making rolled sushi. It can also be used for wrapping, bundling, garnishing for other types of sushi or just eaten as a healthy snack. It is high in fibre, protein, vitamins and minerals.

Kombu

This is kelp, an umami-rich dried seaweed that is used not only for making stock, but also for curing fish and vegetables and for flavouring the sushi rice. A quality kombu produced in Hokkaido, northern Japan is widely used in Japanese cuisine.

Dried shiitake

This flavoursome mushroom is believed to have many properties beneficial to health and contains significant quantities of vitamins B and D.

Reconstitute before use by soaking in water for at least 30 minutes. You can also use the soaking water as an umami-rich stock (and it is one of the essential ingredients for making a vegetarian/vegan stock).

Rice (Japanese short-grain sushi rice)

Sushi cannot be made without this short-grain, sticky rice. See pages 22–23 for information on how to cook sushi rice.

Black and white sesame seeds

These bring flavour, texture and an accent of colour when used to garnish sushi. Usually, the sesame seeds found in Asian grocery stores have been pre-toasted to enhance the flavours, meaning they can be used straight from the packet without having to dry-roast them. If you use the untoasted ones, put them in a frying pan (skillet), then dry-roast for a minute or so first.

Shiso

The most popular herb in Japan, this is the leaf of the perilla plant. It is used to add an aromatic flavour to sushi and sashimi.

Pickled ginger

Often eaten between different types of sushi as a palate cleanser. Pickled in rice vinegar, it has a mild acidity, ideal for eating after fatty fish.

Ume paste

This paste is made from salted plums and its salty yet tart flavour works well with some fillings for rolls, or toppings. It is also eaten with Japanese rice balls, or Onigiri, Japan’s most loved rice ball.

Fresh wasabi rhizome and paste

Wasabi grows in clean streams and is native to Japan, although it is grown in other parts of the world too. Its rhizome is grated and used as a condiment for sushi and sashimi and it has a sharp, characteristic pungent taste. It is also famous for its antibacterial properties. Wasabi leaves and flowers are also edible and available when in season. As it is rare to find fresh wasabi in the supermarket, it is most commonly used in its powdered or paste form.