Building Your Own Dock E-Book

Sam Merriam

• Herausgeber: Creative Homeowner
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2019

Seitenzahl: 357

Beschreibung

Build your own sound, functional dock that will overcome almost any waterfront challenge with this essential guide. In Building your own Dock you'll find detailed plans, expert tips, advice on building methods, and insight on materials and specialty parts for all the most popular types of docks. Professional dock builder Sam Merriam explains the wide variety of modern docks, from traditional wood structures to modular, pre-built docks made with aluminum, plastic, or composites. Sam helps you design the best kind of dock for your application and waterfront environment as he explains their relative advantages, disadvantages, and customization options. Whether you decide to build your own dock, hire a builder, or purchase a ready-made, this book will reveal your choices, enhance your dock building knowledge, and empower you to create the dock you've always dreamed of.

Leseprobe

Copyright © 2019 Sam Merriam and Creative Homeowner

This book may not be reproduced, either in part or in its entirety, in any form, by any means, without written permission from the publisher, with the exception of brief excerpts for purposes of radio, television, or published review. All rights, including the right of translation, are reserved. Note: Be sure to familiarize yourself with manufacturer’s instructions for tools, equipment, and materials before beginning a project. Although all possible measures have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the material presented, neither the author nor the publisher is liable in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, or typographical error.

Creative Homeowner® is a registered trademark of New Design Originals Corporation.

Building Your Own Dock

Vice President-Content:: Christopher Reggio

Editor: Anthony Regolino

Copy Editor: Katie Ocasio

Designers: Christopher Morrison, Mary Ann Kahn

Illustrator: Seth D. Merriam

Indexer: Jay Kreider

Print ISBN 978-1-58011-819-4eISBN 978-1-60765-653-7

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Merriam, Sam, author.

Title: Building your own dock / Sam Merriam.

Description: Mount Joy, PA : Creative Homeowner, [2019] | Includes bibliographical references and index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2019000699 (print) | LCCN 2019001237 (ebook) | ISBN 9781607656531 | ISBN 9781580118194 (softcover : alk. paper)

Subjects: LCSH: Docks--Design and construction--Amateurs’ manuals.

Classification: LCC TC355 (ebook) | LCC TC355 .M47 2019 (print) | DDC 627/.31--dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019000699

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

Creative Homeowner®, www.creativehomeowner.com, is an imprint of New Design Originals Corporation and distributed exclusively in North America by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 800-457-9112, 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552, and in the United Kingdom by Grantham Book Service, Trent Road, Grantham, Lincolnshire, NG31 7XQ.

CONTENTS

Preface

Introduction from the Dock Pro

  1Permitting

  2Fastenation

  3Docks in Sections

  4Fixed Docks

  5Completing the Site Survey for a Fixed Dock

  6Skid Dock

  7Permanent Post Dock

  8Post and Bracket Dock

  9The Pipe Leg Dock

10Stabilizing a Fixed Dock

11Crib Docks

12Roll’n Docks

13Floating Docks

14Completing the Site Survey for a Floating Dock

15Dock Sections That Float

16Connections of Sections

17Flotation Sensation

18Shore Transition and Anchoring for Floating Docks

19Fixed to Floating Dock

20Tidal and River Waters

21Swim Rafts

22Clues for Cleats

23Safeguarding from Wind and Waves

24Fender Friends

25Accessorizing

26Understanding Ice-Over and Winter Storage

27Preservatives on Wood Docks

28Wood Dock Repairs

Glossary of Terms

Material Sources

Acknowledgments

About the Author

About the Artist

Minutes before the sun sets on the shores of Frye Island, Maine, do-it-yourselfers pause for a thumbs-up, having completed their first dock installation.

PREFACE

More Than Just a Tie-up for the Boat

Do you spend more hours on the dock than offshore in your boat? Reoccurring engine failure or the exorbitant cost of fuel could be the cause for some. For others, it’s enough to simply be on the water for its allure, where the dock is convenient and sometimes has a living space. After spending enough time on the dock, eventually you’ll walk away with a “dock tale” or two and realize the added value that comes with a dock. It is more than just a tie-up for the boat. As a lifelong dock builder, I’ve come to know many who live out all they can on the dock. It’s their favorite destination and the center stage for making memories with family. Perhaps you can recount a favorite dock tale of your own.

A Dock Tale

It is with one of my favorite dock tales that I’d like to dedicate this book to my father and mother, Fremont and Norma Merriam. Their little cottage on Mousam Lake in Maine gave me and all my siblings childhood vacation experiences that remain treasured to this day.

The cottage was so small, my mother had to cleverly manage—like playing a game of Tetris—to fit her brood of five (at the time) all inside for the night. My father, who could have built an extra bedroom or two, decided it was more urgent to build a dock. His logic went like this: “You kids have bedrooms at home. We’re here for the lake, so a dock is what we need at the cottage, not bedrooms.” When completed, he had more than a dock, he had what appeared to be an airstrip floating on barrels. Since our corner of the lake was always calm, devoid of wind, he moored the deep end with chain and anchors, while the shore end, under its own weight, simply nested into the sandy beach. This held the dock with his runabout tethered alongside.

A dock of its size could not be ignored, especially by a pack of kids, many of whom came together from cottages nearby. They ruled the neighborhood all day from the woods to the water including the large dock that would become center stage for many stories. One morning, my brother, Tom, who was always fascinated with the contents of National Geographic magazine, became inspired particularly by its features covering the adventures of the world- renown SCUBA diver, Jacque Cousteau. With a mask, snorkel, and a buddy, Tom set out off the dock to uncover the lake’s sunken secrets. Minutes later, they exploded with elation on the surface about ten meters beyond Dad’s dock. Could it be the wreckage of an alien spacecraft or gold bullion? Now that would have been something! But, more like you’d expect, they found a lost and forgotten anchor.

To Tom and his buddy, this was a very good find, one to be proud of, especially after figuring out how to retrieve it. With all the young and curious spectators crowding onto the dock, Tom saw his opportunity. He swam down with a long rope and slipped its end through the anchor’s eyelet. Returning to the dock, Tom enlisted everyone to grab onto the rope like a tug-of-war team and commence pulling. The next scene became very intense. Everyone who had been a spectator was now in on it, hands locked onto the rope, bodies leaning and knuckles turning white. Though the team was impressive and determined, the anchor’s hold was proving to be unconquerable. With the team’s last ounce of spirit and strength, one final pull surprisingly made the difference. Hand over hand with the rope, tugging the anchor to the dock, brought victory closer and restored the team’s spirit with every pull.

About that time, my father arrived at the cottage and thought he should investigate all the hoopla coming from the beach. From his perspective, it appeared they had an alligator on the other end of that rope and clearly they did not know what they were doing. Suddenly, the team hears my Dad’s alarming shout from the shore. All heads turned back to see that the dock had been dislodged from the beach and that instead of pulling the anchor to the dock, they were pulling the dock to the anchor. My father did not know then that ten years later he would be in the dock business, designing and building nice docks for others. You can bet, he never once again anchored the shore end with just its own weight.

The family fun at Mousam Lake inspired my mother and father to eventually find a home where they could live on the lake year-round—one that had bedrooms. Eventually, their dream came true in the Sebago Lakes region of Maine. My father, a self- employed building contractor with an engineering background, discovered a lack of dock builders or good dock-building methods near his new home. With his design talent and ingenuity, he developed a dock system for himself that would become the prototype for a new business venture in docks. There, he continued to design and manufacture his own line of specialty dock hardware, making it available to do-it-yourselfers and other contractors.

In a region that was lacking much-needed specialized knowledge and proper materials for docks, I credit my mother and father for building a business that would fill the void, set the standards, and propagate the knowledge. Today, the designs and methods established during their years in business can still be seen, relied on by a newer and much larger generation of dock builders. Thanks to my Creator above and my mother and father who founded the business, bringing me in at a young age, I dedicate this book to them, Fremont and Norma Merriam.

Back to the story, the situation, though looking grim, improved tremendously once enough rope had been pulled in so that the floating dock was now drifting over the anchor. Standing directly over the anchor, Tom and his buddy were able to lift straight up on the anchor to break its grip from the bottom. What they realized was that the rope’s original angle upon tugging pulled the anchor deeper into the mud, only making it harder to release. Adding ten more kids to pull would not have helped. Instead, by standing right over the anchor with the line straight up, Tom and his buddy were able to manage it alone. Understanding this principal comes in handy when mooring a boat or a floating dock.

INTRODUCTION FROM THE DOCK PRO

For the dock owner, user, “do-it-yourself ” mender, and builder, a unique set of challenges at the shore must be faced with specialized knowledge and skill. Although self-learning through first-hand experience and tip exchanges between neighbors will always have high value, sometimes it would be nice to hear from a career dock builder, aka a “dock pro,” someone devoted to his calling, studious to the challenges you’re facing, and with the fervor to find remedies that bring resolve. In the chapters ahead, you will find the dock pro’s tips, based on decades of proven methods for simple things like installing a tie-up cleat, improving dock stability, and ways for protecting your boat while docked. You will also find complete details for planning and building various kinds of docks perfect for the “do-it-yourselfer” (DIYer), who wants to “hit a homerun.” If you have a dock or you’re about to build one, a windfall of special information is just ahead for you to take full advantage.

Exploring this book, you’ll learn about docks that stand fixed on legs, permanent methods where winter ice isn’t a problem, and removable methods for climates with severe winter ice. You’ll also learn about docks that float and different ways to attach or anchor them in place. Along with showing how to build these docks, the dock pro will help you first evaluate an environment and how the dock will be used so that you choose the right kind of dock. Importantly, the dock pro’s project plans are made with sensitivity to the limitations of the DIYer and has scaled them to convenient sizes. Even if you’re hiring someone to build a dock or provide a pre-manufactured dock, this book will equip you with the dock pro’s knowledge to decipher if you’ll get the desired value from the product before purchasing.

For the many docks that have not yet fallen to disrepair, the dock pro can help you stay ahead of maintenance before repair turns into replacement. You’ll find tips for breathing new life to your dock. Whether you need to apply wood preservative, bracing to prevent unwanted instability or repairs to the decking and frame, see what the dock pro has to say; the advice makes this book worth its weight in gold.

If maintenance and repair isn’t your thing and better left to hired help, you can expect this book to inspire and get you thinking about how to make the most of your dock whether you build it yourself or get someone to help. While a dock is key for access at the shore and getting the full value of your waterfront, the dock pro recognizes for some, it’s a destination. Of all the places you could spend your available hours of leisure, dream about how the dock will be an extension of your outdoor living space, a place for making lifelong memories with family and friends. To help with that, explore the various floor plans that invite leisure time opportunities utilizing either fixed or floating docks while seeing yourself in the plans. Begin with your dream and let the dock pro help with making it real.

Who Is This “Dock Pro”?

Imagine a hardware store that is all about dock building, stocked up on chain, cleats, flotation, galvanized bolts, and an array of marine-grade gear that you wouldn’t find at the usual hardware store. It’s Saturday morning and you’re beginning a DIY dock project at the lake, after stopping at this supply store first to see what they offer that will help. Once inside, you find experienced, trained helpers who are ready with all the tips and guidance to put you at ease. It might sound too ideal to be real, given how specialized your task is, but this describes a unique business that my father, Fremont Merriam, started in 1979. Greetings . . . I’m Sam Merriam, aka the “dock pro,” and it has been my pleasure to have worked many years in a family business where I’ve helped countless DIYers like you make improvements to an existing dock or build a new dock from start to finish. Located in the beautiful state of Maine, where bodies of water and shoreline are abundant, it’s no wonder how someone could sustain a business like this.

Now, after decades of experience and acquired specialized knowledge from the business, my tips and guidance for DIYers, which were available only in my store, are now here in this book. If you have an existing dock, and looking for ways to improve, embellish, or problem solve, make this book your user guide for invaluable tips and ideas. For your new dock building project, start with my guidance on relevant topics along with instructions and plans for some of the most popular DIY dock building methods. The added knowledge base you’ll gain here will add significantly to your confidence level before and as you build, saving you time and costly futile efforts.

Growing up in Maine, I was never far from water. With the profuse amounts of precipitation New England is known for, I’ve advocated at times that Maine should change its name to Raine. Seriously though, all that moisture is responsible for the privilege I’ve experienced, both playing and working in water. A vast array of water environments such as lakes, rivers, tidal inlets, and coastline has been my world since a youngster. If it has a paddle, oars, power, or sail, I have used it. Chances were fair that my future occupation would have something to do with water. In Maine, the variety of water environments present a large demand for docks across varying degrees of challenges. With that, there is the demand for people who know how to make docks for a specific environment and application. While I was in middle school, my father was self-employed as a building contractor within the lakes region of southern Maine. He started offering docks as a sideline that over a ten-year period became his sole business. During those years, his dock business offered reliable summer work for me. Naturally, it was from my father where I learned the trade and the business, though I had other plans while in college. I thought my calling might be TV journalism or becoming an ad executive, but there seemed to be a gravitational pull on me to come back to the water. After college, I made my decision: I was going to grow the dock business with my father.

“Weekenders” at the lake camp carry a section of dock to be installed on the shore.

My father was a talented structural designer. Before his building contractor career, he designed bleachers and stadium seating at Hussey Seating Company for nearly 20 years. His background revealed itself in the dock business after an investment into metal fabrication equipment whereby he made specialty hardware components for wooden docks. Most of the components were his own design and made to facilitate the mobility of wooden docks to go in and out of the water. To folks who are south of New England, it seems absurd that one installs a dock only to remove it from the water in the same year. In the north, that’s what you do; winter ice requires it, especially on larger water bodies. The northern ice is powerful and can destroy the most rugged docks. Working with the northern climate in Maine played a big part in defining his business that he named Great Northern Docks. His specialty dock hardware components proved very effective in making a sturdy wooden dock that could be annually installed and removed relatively easily. While in business to provide complete dock systems to turnkey customers, his parts raised the eyebrows of DIYers and contractors who wanted to build their own docks. In time, he saw his business evolve into the supply house and information resource center for dock building.

More than just being a dock, a ready-to-be-furnished outdoor family living space is made on the water for good times and memories.

Not your everyday hardware store, this place bustles at winter’s end with do-it-yourselfers who find specialty components and guidance on all sorts of dock projects.

Since my father retired some time ago, I’ve been online with the business serving DIYers far from my home. Naturally, this has inspired me to become familiar with dock techniques used throughout North America and Europe. Not to my surprise, for example, the way docks are done in Ontario is slightly different from the way docks are done in Florida. The insight gained from my travels, coupled with decades of experience in Maine, has equipped me with knowledge that will help any DIYer anywhere. So that you’ll be equipped with that same knowledge, I’ve written this book for you, capturing the fundamentals you’ll need to successfully utilize, improve upon, or build your own dock from scratch.

Boundaries for Building a New Dock

Some jobs should be left to the experts, of course, but when it comes to dock building, there are a vast number of opportunities just right for the DIYer. Regardless of your motivation, be it budget constraints, a shortage of locally skilled dock builders, or, simply, that you like to build, this book was written with you in mind, the DIY dock builder who probably doesn’t own a commercial barge, crane, and pile driver.

No worries. . . . You’ll find I’ve set the boundary where the scale of the project can be done using common carpentry tools and the materials can be hand carried or lifted into place without heavy equipment. Most of the dock designs that I’ve included are comprised of portable, standard-size sections of dock, each serving as a building block to make up whatever configuration you desire.

Above the treetops at my store, water is near in every direction.

So that you’re not on a wild goose chase, I’ve limited the material requirements to what you would expect is on hand at your local building supply along with specialty dock components that, if not found at a local retailer, can be easily found online. Where codes and conditions require heavy pilings to be driven, I recommend that you hire that part out to a qualified marine contractor, just as you would likely hire a concrete foundation contractor for the house you plan to build. Once your marine contractor has left you with pre-installed heavy pilings, follow my step-by-step instructions to build your heavy dock or pier upon them.

In upcoming chapters, I’ve presented four classifications of docks that you can build using wood:

• fixed,

• floating,

• fixed to floating,

• rolling portable.

With each one, I’ll provide a summary of the benefits and a description of the types of environments where they are suited for use. I’ve included a special chapter about the nature of tidal waters and rivers with some important advisories to consider for docks in these places. I will also help you complete a site survey where you will learn my approach to decisions such as choosing the best location for a dock on the property, choosing the best classification or type of dock, the size limits, and distance the dock should extend out. Along with it constituting your mapped-out plan, the site survey exercise will help to separate your good ideas from bad ones, cement the good ideas into actions, and thwart a bad decision from coming to fruition. Finally, this guidebook would not be complete without tips for installing your dock into the water, where the dock will be a splash. Each classification of dock has its own details for setup that follows its construction details. Begin with the Special Safety Measures (right column) before you take to the shore with your project.

With the help of specialty dock components, DIYers connect two sections of floating dock together.

Even after you’ve completed your project with the help from this book, much of the information covered will not become obsolete, making this book a relevant resource for many years to come. For as long as you and your family have anything to do with docks, keep this book handy for future reference.

Special Safety Measures

From start to finish, operating safely is the most important objective through the process for any project. I always encourage people to follow the safety precautions that come with any of the equipment you’ll be using. From my years of working on docks, hearing about or bearing witness to human failures, I want to share with you some precautions specific to working on or around the water.

• When it’s strength you lack, someone should “have your back.” Objects too heavy for you deserve patience and additional help.

• Even the best swimmer should wear a life vest when working where the water’s deep. Have you ever tread water with work boots on? I hope you’ll never have to.

• Seatbelts saves lives; safety glasses saves eyes. Eye injuries are caused by the “darndest” things—the thing you weren’t expecting.

• Sandals are shoddy shoes for doing dock work. Covering your bases means covering your feet.

• Know where you’re stepping. On the golf course, try for a hole in one. On the jobsite, don’t be the one in the hole.

Most of the dock methods featured in this book are comprised of portable, standard-size sections.

• Good gloves means glad hands. Be prepared—you may not know entirely what your hands will get into.

• On the pond or pool, the fool holds a corded tool. Stick with cordless tools when near or over water.

• When there is lightning about, it’s time to clear out. I know the job is important to you, but so is your life.

• Overhead and under feet, no power line is safe to meet. Be aware of all electrical lines near your work. Sometimes it’s easy to assume there is none near the water—you should never assume.

• If it’s windy and choppy, the dock work is sloppy. Choose your time of day wisely. The work goes much better when conditions are calm.

• Onlookers are obstacles. We can’t blame them for wanting to watch, just keep them at a safe distance.

• Critters count. Always treat wildlife and pets with respect. Their safety is important too.

• Buddies are the best. Working alone leaves no one to help if you get into trouble.

• Is your equipment right or will it bite? Make sure your tools are all in good working order and safe to use.

• Secure the scene. Leaving your jobsite on the fly, considers not the passerby. Defuse all traps before you go, moor what matters the wind could blow. For the short time you’re away could make or break someone’s day.

CHAPTER 1:

PERMITTING

Seek permission before starting any kind of dock project. You need to know what you can do legally before the dream gets too far ahead of reality. Oftentimes, in rural country, folks feel removed from their government and seem surprised or dismayed when I broach the subject with them. I recommend going online to your local town, city council, municipality, or county website to the building and or environmental code section to learn about dock permit requirements. Most often, standard codes begin at the top levels of government. In Canada, that would be the Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry. In the United States, it would be the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers along with the department within a state or county government, with a title such as Natural Resources or Environmental Protection. Codes are often handed down from top levels of government to local levels. Local levels of government may have the authority allowed by upper levels to add more stringent codes within their jurisdiction than what is administered from above. By beginning at the local council level with your inquiry, I expect you’ll find guidance on what is required. Depending on the location, I’ve experienced a broad range of possibilities, such as no permit required at all to acquiring multiple permits from different agencies. If your project is in a location so rural and far removed from the jurisdiction of any kind of local government, then likely there is a commission or department at the province or state level where you should inquire that manages unorganized territory. If you find there is absolutely no regulation for your waterfront, the best policy is self-regulation. A dock that is environmentally safe, non-offensive, and doesn’t reasonably compromise someone else’s enjoyment may keep unwanted over-regulation out.

Sometimes, talking with a neighbor who has a dock and has the experience to advise can save you some time, but it’s not uncommon, especially in rural areas, to hear the neighbor say, “You don’t need a permit; I never bothered to get one.” That may be what you want to hear, but I recommend prudence and responsibility by checking with the local authority to be safe.

I hear this a lot too, “I’d rather beg for forgiveness than ask for permission.” This assumes that there is a good chance that if you build whatever you want, you can have it, and the authority probably won’t notice. In the unlikely event they discover you don’t have a permit, then you’ll talk your way out of trouble, cooperatively pay the fine, and pay for the permit to keep what you have built. Otherwise, if you ask for permission up front, you’ll be cut back to something less than what you want. At that point, you’re on the authority’s “radar,” and building what you want won’t be as easy to sneak in. The potential trouble here is that if what you built isn’t up to code, and code enforcement comes calling, they could require you to make changes, and in addition to paying fines, you’ll have to take everything down. I’m not trying to play bad cop here. I just want to point out, for your sake, that there may be rules to play by, and I encourage everyone to follow them. After all, though in some cases the rules don’t seem fair, they are there for everyone’s protection and the preservation of the environment that we enjoy.

If you’re feeling anxious about the thoughts of a permit application, don’t be discouraged too quickly. Quite often, the requirements are simple and can be handled entirely through your local government council. If there are not instructions, an official should be able to guide you with completing the application. If required, they should direct you to any other agency or organization for additional permits. For extra environmentally sensitive areas or urban areas, I would expect more than one permit, each from a different agency, would be required.

Once you’ve established that one or more permits are required, you’ll want to become familiar with the specific rules for constructing the dock. Some of the rules originate to ensure the dock is safe for people, such as specifying dimensional lumber sizes to use, the distance between supports, where railing is required, marking for visibility at night, or specifics that prevent it from becoming a navigational hazard. Your code may require pilings that are heavier than practical for a DIYer to install. In that case, you’ll look for a marine contractor to do that part. In many cases, ironically, I’ve seen no rules that reflect a concern for the safety of people, but only the impact on the environment. Environmental rules control things like the size of the dock, its “footprint,” “shading” (which is the blockage of light that can lead to erosion and adversely affect the ecosystem), visual pollution, specific materials that could cause harm to the environment, and anchoring standards to prevent its destruction that could result in littering debris. The plans, materials, and methods of construction that are provided in this book may or may not be permitted in the jurisdiction where your project is going to be built. The rules you’ll need to comply with in building your dock will dictate what methods and designs you’ll be able to choose. My advice is to apply what you can from this book that does meet compliance with your local code. In some cases, a simple alteration of dimensions within the structure or its overall size may be all that is needed. Once you know the rules and what will be allowed, bring that knowledge together with what it is you want to build. Adjust your plan until it complies so that you can arrive at the specific dock you want the permit(s) for.

When filling out the application(s), include specifically what it asks for. If it wants any drawings attached with dimensions or photos of the site, be sure to meet the criteria of the instructions. If it doesn’t say it has to be a professional drawing, then provide a simple sketch. Do not give more drawings and photos or details than what it asks for. If it doesn’t ask for drawings and photographs, don’t provide them.

Too much information can cause confusion for the official who reviews it, resulting in questions and misunderstandings that will stall the approval. For example, accessories such as a ladder or bench should go on the drawing and labeled if asked. Otherwise, don’t show them. Also, stick to the language that the application uses. When writing a description, for example, avoid referring to the dock as a “deck.” Though some portion of it may seem like it should be called a “deck,” it is a dock you’re applying for. Ridiculous as it sounds, the reaction from the official could be, “We permit docks over the water, not decks.” Based on your findings, after your inquiry as to what’s required, you may be pleasantly surprised at how simple it is. If that isn’t the case and there is more red tape than what you are willing to get wrapped up in, then I would consider hiring an engineering firm experienced with the process. They know their way around the red tape and are efficient at getting the approval you need.

If your project involves the replacement of an old dock that has exceeded its life expectancy, there may be characteristics of it that wouldn’t be allowed under the modern code. An example of this could be its size if today’s code for a new dock would allow something smaller than what was there. Depending on the ordinance or zoning, there may be a “grandfather clause” that would enable you to replace it as it was originally built. Be sure to save all evidence of whatever the characteristic is that you want to transfer to the new dock. Maybe you should have the official come out to inspect it. Take plenty of pictures and retrieve any old photos you have of the old dock structures for your files should you wish at any time to make a case for restoring or copying desirable characteristics from the dock you’re replacing.

Finally, when making your inquiry to all agencies that you’ll require a permit from, find out what the time frame is before you get an answer. Depending on the number of agencies involved, it could be a day or two. It could be a month or even more sometimes. I’ve known cases that took up to two years. Hopefully that’s not your situation. Anticipating that a wait is possible, submit your applications early enough so that your approvals come before it is time to build. Once the permit is in your hand, you’ll rest easier than your neighbor who didn’t get one.

CHAPTER 2:

FASTENATION

While in high school, I worked part time at a hardware store, and ever since, believed that all young people should experience that, even for a short time. You get to learn about all the things that will come in handy when you own a home later in life. Of all the departments in that store, none were more important than fasteners. Becoming familiar with fasteners is only the beginning. It takes time and experience to apply that familiarity and years of observation to prove what the best fastener is for the job. Since fasteners are quintessential for so many dock-related projects, the topic deserves its placement near the front of this book. The purpose of this chapter is to give you my fastener experience with dock building, conveyed to you firsthand so that you may avoid common mistakes and get an edge that will facilitate your project and leave you with the desired result.

Since our structure is in an aquatic environment which happens to be corrosive, let’s consider alloys and coatings for a moment. The usual shiny plain steel, electro-galvanized fasteners you find at the hardware store will begin to rust in a short time, especially around salt water. For the time it takes to build your project, it is worth spending extra money for better corrosion resistance so you’re not re-doing it in a few years. Around fresh water, electro-galvanized screws with a resin coating, offered in a choice of colors, perform well on decking and framing. Buying coated screws can be a “pig in a poke,” not knowing the quality of the coating. To qualify what you’re buying, begin with the specifications offered on the product’s label. It should boldly say that it is suitable for marine environments, otherwise, keep shopping. If your project will be exposed to salt water, make sure the product states specifically that it has been tested for salt water. If you can correspond with the company, ask how rigorous their testing is. An adequate test by my standards would be a continuous six month to a year period. If rapid corrosion will occur in a salt environment, they would see early stages of it within that time. Also make sure that the manufacturer recommends their product for the type of chemically treated lumber you may be using.

The alternative to resin-coated screws would be hot-dip galvanized nails or stainless nails and screws. To reduce damage by electrolysis in salt water, I would go with grade 316 stainless if your budget will allow it. I realize that it could be cost prohibitive, especially when you look at upgrading bolts to stainless. In that case, for salt water, I would attach zinc bars, as used on marine outdrives, under the dock frame to retard corrosion on hot-dip galvanized fasteners. In fresh water, hot-dip galvanized fasteners perform excellent above the waterline. Below the waterline, from my experience, the galvanization will be gone in a few years. Once the galvanizing is gone, the plain steel in fresh water could hold out for many years but there is no telling exactly how long. For anything that you’re building that will be underwater, lean toward stainless.

If you plan to use a nailing gun, you’ll likely speed up the assembly time significantly. I recommend using a 3-inch (7.62-centimeter) hot- dip box nail that is ring-shanked or with a spiral. Be sure to blunt the tips to prevent splitting at the end of a board.

If nailing red cedar or redwood, you can expect the galvanized nail heads to turn brown from an interaction between the zinc fastener and tanning oils in the wood. It never bothered me but it might bother some people.

Though the nails hold very well, one complaint I hear about is the nail heads creeping up over time. This is more of a problem with floating docks than fixed. Wood floating docks can torque or twist from end to end as waves roll through, a little or a lot, depending on how well they were made. Prolonged torquing can cause nails to work up through their holes. The shrink and swell cycle of the boards may also contribute to this. Either you cope with the problem, appreciating the other attributes to nails, or use screws instead. Just be aware that if torquing is the culprit, it will work on the screws too. They either creep out like a nail will or fatigue and snap at the heads. You should use a heavy-enough wire, like a #10, and work on reducing the torque in the dock.

As a framing fastener, structural screws install very nicely with a variable-speed cordless impact wrench. These are available by several manufacturers in various lengths, coatings, and head types. If you haven’t used these before, don’t be surprised at how easily an 8-inch (20.32-centimeter) screw will install. As with any fastener, make sure that the manufacturer rates the product you’re looking at for the treated wood you’re using and your environment.

When considering your choice of head types available, whether for decking or framing, Phillips drives work well when going into cedar. If you’re going into a harder material, such as treated wood, either use a square or star drive. Structural screws are available in a hex drive that I’ve never stripped out, but I prefer the heads that are round or flat with a star drive as they are more hull friendly if brushed by a boat. If you experience trouble with the bits breaking, try a higher quality brand made with a harder steel. On deck screws, fluted tips are worth getting to reduce the chance of splitting the end of a board. If using conventional tips, pre-drill the ends of all deck boards since decking should be cut flush with the frame on a dock.

For mounting specialty dock hardware, joining posts with a frame, or cap boards, I recommend through bolting. Do not rely on lag bolts where through bolts can be used.

If possible, use all carriage bolts, keeping the heads to the exposed surfaces as they are hull- and skin-friendly while the hex nuts will be turned in. If the hex nut and the threaded end of a bolt must be on a surface that could be exposed to a hull or skin, countersink an area so that the nut and bolt set within.

Dock hardware should be through-bolted.

Around fresh water you should use hot-dip galvanized screws. In salt environments, I prefer stainless if it’s in the budget. I have a word of caution when using stainless bolts and nuts. They have a strong propensity to “gall” or seize together. Sometimes they seize before the nut is tight against the surface you’re fastening to. Once this happens, applying torque to the wrench will likely snap the bolt. Before putting stainless bolts and nuts together, inspect the threads for grit or imperfections. Then hand-tighten before applying torque with a hand wrench. Tightening at a slow speed prevents heat that can cause galling. An alternative to this would be to use brass or aluminum nuts on stainless bolts.

When drilling for bolts, match the hole size with the bolt diameter. Sometimes a slightly bigger hole is preferred so that the bolt fits into the hole with ease. That may be okay, but if it is on a component that will experience motion, such as a hinge for a floating dock, I recommend keeping a tight fit. Locking nuts, such as a nyloc, would be great if you could find them for galvanized bolts. Otherwise, locking washers are the “go to” but I recommend liquid thread lock and or double nutting. They add another level of protection to secure parts that experience motion, vibration, and wear. RTV silicone applied to the threads will also dampen vibration and help prevent bolts and nuts from working apart. Upon tightening bolts to wood, be sure to include flat washers where a hex head bolt or nut tightens directly against a wood surface.

Countersunk holes help to reduce contact with an abrasive bolt.

If you’re planning to use eye-bolts for hinging dock sections or holding significant loads, be sure to use load-rated, shouldered, forged eye-bolts. Eye- bolts that have been formed into shape with a rod may not do the job. Make sure you know its capacity and that it is fit for the job you’re subjecting it to.

Pipe leg dock hardware, made for holding the weight of dock sections and additional loads, use a setscrew to hold the weight onto the pipe. Sometimes a standard-grade three-bolt is used where the setscrew threads into the part. A better setscrew is one that is made for biting into the pipe. It is case-hardened and has a concave or cup- shaped tip. A ½ inch (1.27 centimeter)–diameter setscrew of this type has a holding capacity of 500 pounds (226.80 kilograms). When tightening, as the setscrew begins to press the pipe against the socket, only a quarter turn more to the right is needed to hold it securely.

1. A locking nut resists loosening due to vibration and shrinking of material.

2. A locking washer keeps tension on the nut to help prevent loosening.

3. Use flat washers where hexagonal nuts tighten against wood. Use them under hexagonal bolt heads that are in contact with wood.

4. For fixed docks that stand on pipe legs, the setscrew with “a cup point,” used with pipe leg hardware, cuts into the pipe for the best hold and adjustability.

5. Forged eye-bolt with shoulder.

6. Liquid thread lock is an alternative to a locking nut.

7. In a pinch, without locking nuts or liquid thread lock, apply a second nut onto the bolt to resist loosening.