Cheese Boards to Share E-Book

Thalassa Skinner

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2019

Beschreibung

Providing everything you need to know in order to present and feast upon your perfect cheeseboard, this book features 25 themed boards as well as accompaniments and essential practical information on cheese. Cheese boards are the ideal fuss-free, yet delicious and visually impressive meal option. Though traditionally thought of as just a festive treat, impressive modern incarnations have recently taken social media by storm, as people discover that they can be a show-stopping option for entertaining at any time of year. The 25 themed boards in this book offer the perfect cheese board for any occasion, from lively boards themed around wine, beer and cocktail pairings, to a wholesome kids' board and a picnic board. No matter the size of your crowd or your budget, there is a themed board here to suit it – from small romantic boards for two, to more extravagant aspirational boards suitable for a wedding. Each cheese included in the book is followed by a detailed description and ideas for suitable alternatives. Suggestions for store-bought accompaniments are included, or if you are feeling more creative, try the simple recipes such as Italian Herb Flatbread, Rainbow Pepper Oatcakes or Tomato and Smoked Pepper Jam. Essential practical information in the front section includes tips on buying, storing and cutting cheese plus much more.

Leseprobe

CHEESE BOARDS

to share

How to create a stunning cheese board for any occasion

THALASSA SKINNER

Photography by Erin Kunkel

For Ricardo Huijon, the ying to my yang. No matter what I do in cheese, you are always by my side.

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Design Assistance Emily Breen

Commissioning Editor Alice Sambrook

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Production Gordana Simakovic

Publisher Cindy Richards

Food and Prop Stylist Valerie Aikman-Smith

Indexer Hilary Bird

Illustrator Cathy Brear

Published in 2019 by

Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 East 116th Street

New York, NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © Thalassa Skinner 2019

Accompaniment recipes © Valerie Aikman-Smith 2019

Design, illustration and photography

© Ryland Peters & Small 2019

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

eISBN: 978-1-78879-252-3 ISBN: 978-1-78879-148-9

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library. US Library of Congress CIP data has been applied for.

Printed in China

CHEESE TERMINOLOGY

Throughout this book you’ll see “PDO” and “PGI” after some of the European cheeses and cured meats. “Protected Designation of Origin” (PDO) and “Protected Geographical Indication” (PGI) means that the product is both protected and promoted by designating specific locations, production processes and quality controls that ensures what you are purchasing is genuine. There are bilateral agreements between countries worldwide that accept this, and it protects the reputation of regional foods, local food production and its economy, and ensures top quality.

There is also an appellation system in place for most of these foods (also used for beverages), but for the purposes of clarity, this book uses predominantly PDO and PGI for its protected designations. The main exceptions to this are the cheeses of Switzerland, which are promoted and protected by the French appellation “AOP” (Appellation d’origine protégée). There is also France’s “AOC” (Appellation d’origine contrôlée), Italy’s “DOC” (Denominazione di origine controllata), Portugal’s “DOC” (Denominação de origem controlada), Spain’s “DO” (demoninacíon de origen) and Romania’s DOC (Denumire de origine controlata).

SAFETY NOTE

Pregnant women, young children, the elderly or those with a compromised immune system are advised not to eat any uncooked mold-ripened soft cheeses such as brie, camembert, chèvre or others with a similar rind. Soft uncooked blue-veined cheeses such as Danish blue, gorgonzola and roquefort should also be avoided.

COOK’S NOTES

• Both American (Imperial plus US cups) and British (Metric) measurements are included in these recipes for your convenience. However, it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

• When a recipe calls for the zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you are only able to find treated fruit, scrub well in warm, soapy water before using.

Contents

Introduction

Cheesemaking and Agriculture

Getting Started

The Cheese Boards:

Bold & Beautiful

Menagerie

Less is More

Young & Wise

It’s a Party!

A Colorful Palette

They Go Together

Mother Earth

With a Bottle of Wine

Hops to it

Apple of my Eye

On the Rocks

Here Comes the Cake

Think Local

On the Go

The Main Course

Seize the Day

Go Fly a Kite

Cheese Plus Meat

Showstopper

Just the Two of Us

Under the Stars

Got Your Goat

Sheepish

In the Heart of the Alps

Coveted References

Index

Acknowledgements

Introduction

Cheese makes people smile. Simply saying “cheese” leads to a grinning photograph and instantly lifts the spirits. Delicious, satisfying and with endless flavors and varieties, cheese is often the favorite food on the table. Yet, most people actually know very little about how it is made, the different styles and how to “talk cheese”. Deciding which cheese to buy is often accompanied with a shrug and eyes at half-mast. It’s true that there are many, many cheeses out there. But this book will hopefully help to show you that this can be exciting rather than overwhelming.

How, then, to be confident when putting together a cheese board? Above all else, be sure to let loose and have fun. If you are not having a good time, it’s likely your guests won’t either. You’ll find many helpful pointers here that will help to ensure your board is a hit. But the fun and personality you inject into the cheese board starts with you.

Just like anything you’re not sure about, ask for assistance if you need it. If a shop has a counter or a cool cabinet filled with cheese, there will likely be at least one person around who can lend a hand. Find a board you like in this book and take in the names of the cheeses on that board. If the shop doesn’t have the same cheeses, that’s fine. Let them guide you to appropriate alternatives. Almost all cheeses have similar siblings that can be substituted—and that is how you learn about other cheeses. Even if you have favorites, step out of your comfort zone and try something new every now and then.

Not everyone has access to a cheesemonger, but if you do you are off to the best possible start. Dive in and befriend those folks! They’ll be halving wheels and cutting cheeses daily, so there will be random samples to try, plus they will be able to open up wedges that you are interested in for sampling. The best way to learn what you like is, of course, to taste (and smell).

Most cheese counters place similar cheeses together so that you can navigate by eye when browsing. Cheese signs are incredibly helpful, and even the packaging on cheeses aims to make selection easier. A lot of effort goes into making them accurate and, often, fun. Read them carefully, learn and enjoy. Don’t stress so much that you lose sight of the fact that you’re choosing cheese for a happy occasion. It should be a pleasant experience, so smile, take your time and think about the end result: eating cheese!

Cheesemaking and Agriculture

Milk, the wholesome, nutritious liquid naturally produced by females after giving birth is simple in its concept but wondrous in what it achieves. What mamas eat and the state of their health impacts the quality of their milk and, therefore, the cheese produced from it. Extreme care taken by farmers in raising and milking their animals is the foundation that every cheesemaker relies on. If the milk is not excellent, the cheese cannot be either.

The main milk sources for cheesemaking are cows, goats, sheep and water buffalo. All cheeses—from fresh, rindless cheeses to mozzarella, blue and cheddar—can be made from any of these milks. The skill of the cheesemaker comes into play when reckoning with the components of each milk type and its seasonality, in order to transform the liquid into a product that can be coagulated, formed, aged, eaten and enjoyed. Not a single step can be taken lightly; when 1000 pounds of the highest quality cow’s milk is to be made into 100 pounds of cheese, there is much at stake. Cheesemakers must know what they are doing and have planned exactly what they want that cheese to be before the milk warms in the vat.

Making cheese is not hard but making good cheese consistently is difficult, requiring skill, dedication and meticulous attention to detail. The basic steps to cheesemaking include coagulating (which separates the solids from the liquids), adding specific molds/yeasts, cutting the curd (aka solids), manipulating the curd in different ways (such as heating, washing, pressing, hand-ladling), then salting and aging the cheese. Every step in the recipe impacts the texture and flavor of the cheese, and every cheese produced from a single vat is different, even if it is made exactly the same way—which means it must be kept under careful watch.

The younger the cheese, the higher the moisture content and the faster it needs to be eaten. Soft cheeses with delicate rinds owe much of their texture and flavor to the rind itself, which is actively growing on the surface of the cheese and should be eaten (or else you’ll be missing the point). Firmer and more aged cheeses, which cover a wide variety of styles, develop a mind-boggling spectrum of flavors due to the way that the milk’s components (specifically the butterfat and proteins) break down over time and the careful treatment of the wheels as they age (whether repeatedly washed with brine or moved to lower/higher temperature or lower/higher humidity, etc.).

But nothing should mask or overpower the flavor of the milk itself—not in any cheese. No matter what, the milk is key. Remind yourself of that as you create your cheese board, making sure the cheeses get top billing and are savored. Because they are not only agricultural products but crafted with care, with millennia of practice and tradition tied to their production.

Getting Started

Now that you’ve decided to make a cheese board, let’s talk about what this means. Either you are treating yourself, or you and a loved one (never a bad idea, especially if the weather isn’t cooperating) or you’ve got people coming over who need feeding. The beauty of cheese boards is the ease with which they can be adjusted to accommodate one, two, 10 or 30+ people.

They can be simple and paired back with store-bought accompaniments, or much more extravagant affairs with homemade dishes served alongside. You can spend as much or as little time as you want on them, but for some people the sheer scope of this choice can be part of the problem getting started. To stop the task from becoming overwhelming, you should mentally break down the process of creating your cheese board into the three simple steps below:

1. Exploring

Musing about the flavors, finding a theme, identifying where to buy the cheeses from, choosing which guests to invite.

2. Shopping

Diving in with an open mind, a list and a purpose.

3. Serving

Putting the board together, from the base to the accompaniments and signs.

Exploring

An exciting and interesting way to think about creating your cheese board is by theme. As you browse through this book and its 25 themed boards, consider what your personal preferences are. Are you a cocktail drinker, and do you want to have some fun with cheese and cocktails? Maybe you and your friends prefer to drink beer. Or do you want to make things less focused on cheese and more about the rest of the time you have together with your friends? In that case, perhaps Less Is More would be the board of choice. Perhaps you need a cheese board to fit in around the day you are planning, in which case you might choose something like On the Go or the picnic board, depending on your needs.

Alongside your own needs, think about the other people who will be eating from your board and what might be best for them. Things to consider include:

• How many people are there?

• When will you be eating the cheese board. Before, during, after or in place of a meal?

• Do your guests have an interest in food and drink (if not specifically cheese) that you know about?

• Are there any vegetarians or people with food allergies?

• Are they friends of yours, acquaintances or new to you?

• Are there any children?

These are all things that will help you to narrow down your choices and decide amounts, types and overall selection of cheeses and accompaniments. The bottom line, though, is that you want to eat and enjoy some delicious cheese. As long as this is done, it’s impossible to go wrong.

Shopping

Unless you want to pay hefty shipping fees for mail-order cheese (which will include ice packs and overnight delivery charges), you’ll want to work with what is available to you nearby. The cheeses you can source locally will depend on what the stores near you can get their hands on. Start by getting acquainted with your local cheesemonger or the cheese counter at your local grocery store or delicatessen. Don’t be shy about asking them for specific cheeses; they may have them stored elsewhere or perhaps aren’t familiar with them yet so an introduction can lead to a wider selection for all. Another good thing to do is to go along to farmers’ markets and see if there are any local small-batch cheese makers.

Throughout this book, you’ll see that each cheese listed is explained with its most identifiable attributes, including at least two of the descriptive terms listed below right. Using those, you’ll be able to find a similar cheese for your board. The cheeses are chosen for a reason, but you don’t need to use the exact one listed in this book if you can’t find it. Use the list of cheese substitutions provided or look through the cheeses available in your local shop and ponder the list of attributes to see if most of them match what you want.

If the cheese bug nabs you, there are lots of books and websites out there. Every cheese you try opens another window of discovery. Flip to the Coveted References on page 156 for a curated, cheese-centric listing.

DESCRIPTIVE TERMS FOR CHEESE

• The type of milk: is it cow’s, goat’s, sheep’s, water buffalo’s, mixed milk, etc.

• The texture: is it soft, semi-soft, hard, etc.

• The flavor: milky, buttery, nutty, sharp, stinky, etc.

• The rind (outer surface of the cheese): wrinkly, molded, hard, coated, etc.

Serving

THE TOOLKIT

You really don’t need many tools to serve cheese, and it’s often better to have few really useful tools than too many that will clutter up your kitchen. You’ll want a sharp chef’s knife (or a large offset knife) and a smaller sharp knife for everyday use with cheese. For soft cheeses, which want to stick to every surface, think thin and narrow—there are specific knives designed just for this purpose. Cheesemongers may use a single wire to make a clean cut through a soft cheese, so emulating that in a knife is the best plan.

Make sure to have a clean cutting board that is never used for slicing onions or garlic (or any other pungent food that could contaminate the flavor). If there are any leftovers, wrap them in cheese paper. It is designed specifically to let cheese breathe but not to allow too much moisture to escape, and it works well. If you can’t find cheese paper, use coated butcher paper, or wax-lined paper and a plastic container.

THE BOARD

You’ll want a suitable board to go under those cheeses—and there are plenty of great options out there (and probably hiding in your own cupboard, too). Size, shape, color and texture do matter here. It’s better to have more room than not enough space; it’s never good to have cheese, nuts, or anything else squashed up together or falling off the sides of the board. Remember to leave plenty of room for people to cut more off the cheeses and self-serve. Think about how you’d approach each cheese on the board and make it easy to reach everything you’re serving. It’s not fun to have to work too hard for every mouthful.