Chip Carving Starter Guide E-Book

Charlene Lynum

• Herausgeber: Fox Chapel Publishing
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Seitenzahl: 140

Beschreibung

If you have ever wanted to try your hand at chip carving and are looking for an approachable introduction, Chip Carving Starter Guide is the perfect place to begin! Its opening chapters will help you build a solid foundation of knowledge on the basics of chip carving, transferring patterns, applying finishes, and correctly making a variety of chips. You'll then go on to complete 3 step-by-step projects, plus 21 additional patterns, to carve with confidence as you start simple and slowly progress to advance your skills! Featuring complete materials and tools lists, full-size patterns, and expert tips, this must-have guide emphasizes the importance of skill-building and developing your techniques correctly and carefully to ensure success! Author and chip carving artist Charlene Lynum has been chip carving since 1985 and is a regular contributor to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine.

Leseprobe

Dedication

To my husband, Kim, for your unending support.

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank the following people who supported me throughout the adventure of authoring this book:

• My husband, Kim, has always been my main source of encouragement. He does a spectacular job at making projects for me to carve. I am truly blessed to have someone so special at my side.

• My daughters, Kara and Erin, who have believed in me and support my carving adventures.

• Jan Jenson, for inspiring me to enter competitions and to push myself to the next level.

• All of my carving friends, who are too numerous to mention, for being there and sharing the carving experience with me.

© 2022 by Charlene Lynum and Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552.

Chip Carving Starter Guide is an original work, first published in 2022 by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc. The patterns contained herein are copyrighted by the author. Readers may make copies of these patterns for personal use. The patterns themselves, however, are not to be duplicated for resale or distribution under any circumstances. Any such copying is a violation of copyright law.

All step-by-step and technique/tool photos by the author. All glamor photography by Mike Mihalo. The following images are credited to Shutterstock.com and their respective creators: p. 8 and similar (wood texture): Titus Group; p. 85 (frame interior): mythja; p. 77 (necklaces): CFortin.

Print ISBN 978-1-4971-0167-8

eISBN 978-1-6374-1055-4

Library of Congress Control Number: 2021938687

To learn more about the other great books from Fox Chapel Publishing, or to find a retailer near you, call toll-free 800-457-9112 or visit us at www.FoxChapelPublishing.com.

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

For a printable PDF of the patterns used in this book, please contact Fox Chapel Publishing at [email protected], with 9781497101678 Chip Carving Starter Guide in the subject line.

Introduction

Chip carving is a decorative form of carving that doesn’t require multiple tools or a special shop. You simply remove small, faceted chips of wood to create beautiful, intriguing designs that can add a wow factor to an everyday item. The shadows that are achieved from the chip carving accentuate the design and make any project appealing.

This book contains instructions and photos to guide the beginner down the road of chip carving. There are projects for the beginning carver, such as a set of coasters, holiday ornaments, and a box. The designs then progress into more intermediate projects, such as a cell phone holder, a doorstop, a trivet, a flat napkin holder, and a jewelry holder. For carvers with more experience—including readers of this book who have worked through the easier projects—I have included award-winning advanced patterns that include layered chips and accent layers; these projects include a tablet holder, a clock, a plate, and the Perspective Wall Hanging.

The techniques in this book have been successful for me. My hope is that this book will give you all the guidance you need, as well as a great deal of inspiration. If you are new to chip carving, this book can be a guide. If you are experienced, you can find a challenge with the more advanced projects and patterns.

I started chip carving around 1984; I had always been intrigued by the craft. I also liked that it would not require a large investment in tools. For many years, I carved items using patterns that other people had drawn up. Whenever starting a new project, I would need to page through books to find a pattern that could be adapted for my projects. Around 2010, I started to draw up my own patterns to carve. Then, in 2016, after retiring, I had a lot more time for my chip carving. I had taught some carving classes at our local museum, and the students enjoyed the patterns I had made. My students and chip carving friends were encouraging me to write a book so others could enjoy my projects and patterns. In 2019, I was brave enough to submit some of my projects to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine for publication. I was ecstatic when they accepted a few. In 2020, when Fox Chapel Publishing approached me with the opportunity to publish a book, I was overjoyed. I had been thinking about ways to share my patterns and my love of chip carving, and this opportunity was an unexpected joy and a clear answer to the question of how I was going to share my passion with others.

I hope you can develop a passion for this craft just as I have. Enjoy and have fun!

—Charlene

Table of Contents

Part 1: Getting Started

Supplies

Sharpening

Safety

Wood Types

Wood Moisture

Determining the Direction of the Wood Grain

Applying Patterns

Setting Up to Carve and Holding the Knife

Carving Chips

Practice Board

Fixing a Chip-Out

Fixing Undercuts

Cutting with the Grain

Texturing

Finishing

Having Fun with Patterns

Part 2: Projects

Beginner Projects

Coasters and Holder (Step-by-Step)

Diamond Ornaments

Bell Ornaments

3D Sled Ornaments

Fan and Light Pulls

Intermediate Projects

Trinket Box (Step-by-Step)

Mini Box

Single Deck Card Box

Keepsake Box

Hexagon Box

Cell Phone Holder

Trivet

Napkin Holder

Doorstop

Jewelry Holder

Necklaces

Pencil Holder

Serving Tray

Advanced Projects

Picture Frame (Step-by-Step)

Tablet Holder

Decorative Plate

Desk Clock

Perspective Wall Hanging

Tissue Box Cover

Patterns and Project Plans

About the Author

Part 1: Getting Started

As you start carving, you will need the basic knowledge of the craft that is helpful for every chip carver. This section of the book will give you information on the supplies needed and how to use them safely. It also explains different ways to apply a pattern to your project. Then on to the fun part—making chips! This part includes a description and instruction on how to carve each of the main chips used in chip carving, along with some accent layers and special layered chips. It also touches on some troubleshooting and how to finish your projects. You’ll be ready to tackle your first project in no time!

SUPPLIES

For all the projects in this book, and indeed any chip carving project, you will need most or all of the items in the standard chip carving toolkit: cutting knife, T-square, ruler, pencil, eraser, sandpaper, brush, bow compass, carving glove, and thumb guard, as well as any materials for your chosen method of pattern transfer. Each item in the toolkit is explained in detail in this section; pattern transfer tools and methods are explained on here.

Knives

There are two types of knives commonly used for chip carving in the United States. The first type is a cutting knife, which is used for removing chips. In the United States, most chip carvers use what some refer to as the Swiss style cutting knife. The instructions in this book use the Swiss style knife. The top knife in the photo below is from Wayne Barton’s Alpine School of Woodcarving, the middle knife is made by Richard Reese, and the bottom is made by Dave Notto. Richard’s and Dave’s knives are examples of quality knives that you can find by word of mouth; their knives are not sold in retail or carving stores. In stores, you can look for knives labeled “chip carving knife.”

Three examples of cutting knives

A stab knife

The second knife type is a stab knife, which is used to add detail to your carving. It does not remove any wood—rather, it indents and cuts a slice in the wood. I purchased my knife, pictured above, from Wayne Barton’s Alpine School of Woodcarving. If you are just starting out and don’t want the extra expense, don’t worry about getting the stab knife right away. You can make beautiful carvings with just a cutting knife. But it is something you should consider getting as you progress with your carving.

If possible, attend a carving show where you have the opportunity to see vendors that carry multiple knife brands. Pick up the knives to see how they fit your hand. The knife should feel comfortable to hold. The knives can vary in weight, and the blades can vary in length and width. Talk to other people that chip carve—they may know people that make great knives but who don’t sell them at retail stores. A quality knife is well worth the expense. I have seen carvers become frustrated with chip carving because the knife they are using will not retain a sharp edge.

Keep in mind that not all knives come sharpened and ready to use. I recommend that you have your first knife sharpened for you (check with the vendor about this); it may cost a little more, but it will be worth it, unless you have the skills to make it razor sharp yourself. This is something you can and should learn to do, though; I’ll give you instructions for successful sharpening on here.

T-square

A standard 12″ (30.5cm) T-square that has inches and millimeters marked on it can be used to place straight lines on boards. It is a great tool to have around when marking the center of your project for pattern placement.

From top to bottom: zero centering ruler, T-square with standard ruler, sandpaper, toothbrush, compass, pencil, and eraser

Ruler

Zero centering rulers—that is, rulers with the zero in the center that count outward in both directions—work well for centering your pattern on the project. They can be found in different total lengths; I prefer the 6″ (15.2cm) and 12″ (30.5cm) lengths.

Pencil

I recommend using a 0.5mm mechanical pencil with grade B lead. B leads are smooth to write with and easier to erase. When using a pencil on wood, be careful not to press too hard, because if you do, it can leave an indentation in your smooth wood.

Eraser

For erasing pencil marks or graphite paper marks, I recommend a white eraser such as Pentel’s hi-polymer eraser. Don’t use the red eraser on the end of a normal pencil—it can leave red marks on your carving that are very hard to remove. There is also the chance that the eraser has been used before and has debris embedded in it, which will leave dark smudges on your carving. When using a heat transfer tool, use a colored pencil/ink eraser to remove parts of the pattern that were not removed when carving.

Sandpaper

If needed, use a 220-grit sandpaper. There are many different uses for sandpaper in your chip carving projects. I often use sandpaper for smoothing off a project before carving, rounding over the edge of a box lid, or sanding lightly to freshen up a project I have carved. Or if necessary, you can sand lightly to remove parts of a pattern that were not carved off when using a heat transfer tool to apply the pattern (being careful to not create a flat top on a ridge between chips). Use sandpaper that is made for hand sanding on wood. I use a general-purpose aluminum oxide sandpaper. Using a finer-grit sandpaper than 220-grit can polish the wood, which may affect the finish.

Brush

A new, soft-bristled toothbrush works well for removing small particles of wood that may be loose and laying where the chip was removed.

Bow Compass

A good bow compass can be useful for drawing patterns or finding centers on plates. You can also use one to draw lines around the edge of a project.

Carving Glove and Thumb Guard

Thumb guard

Carving glove

Cut-resistant carving gloves come in different sizes and makes; many of them are made out of Kevlar®. You must use a carving glove, not a regular glove or a leather glove, as these do not provide enough protection. A carving glove does not guarantee that you won’t get cut, but the cut may not be as severe as it would have been if you hadn’t worn a carving glove at all. It is worn on the hand that is holding the project you are carving. A carving glove provides safety if the knife slips; it also reduces your likelihood of transferring dirt and oils from your hands to the carving. When holding the knife properly and keeping your carving hand in contact with the board at all times, you should have very little chance of getting cut. I also recommend wearing a carving glove when sharpening for protection in case the knife slips off the ceramic stone.

I also wear a thumb guard on the hand that holds the knife. When I used to carve without a thumb guard, I would get little indentations on the carving that were caused by my thumbnail. I was able to eliminate those pesky marks by simply wearing a thumb guard. You can purchase a thumb guard or make your own by using a 2″ (5cm)–wide piece of self-adherent wrap approximately 6″–8″ (15–20cm) long, which can be purchased on a roll at your local pharmacy. Thumb guards can also be made out of bandaging tape found at your local farm supply store. Once you have your material for the thumb guard, wrap it around the tip of your thumb multiple times, forming a secure and thick wrap.

SHARPENING

There are many ways to sharpen a knife. Every carver you talk to will have their own opinion. Some chip carving knives should be sharpened with an angle to keep the original bevel. Others recommend holding them dead flat against the surface you are using. Check with the manufacturer of the knife to see if they have recommendations. You can check the sharpness of your knife by taking a scrap piece of wood and cutting across the end of the board, against the grain. Your knife should cut easily and leave a polished surface where the wood is removed.

Bad cuts—you can see the rough texture in the chip shapes.

Good cuts—everything looks smooth.

When the knife is dull, it will tear through the wood instead of cutting cleanly, leaving a rough cut. It is also dangerous to use a dull knife because more pressure is needed to get the knife through the wood, which decreases your control over the knife. You always want to maintain control over where the knife is going without using too much pressure. If the knife edge leaves a line or tears at the wood, it is time to hone/strop/refresh your knife blade. I have seen new carvers become discouraged because a dull knife made carving difficult for them. When the knife is sharp, it will leave a polished surface on the chip and where the chip was removed.

When I sharpen, I use ceramic sharpening stones that I purchased from Wayne Barton at the Alpine School of Woodcarving. I have also seen them available on various woodcarving sites online. The sharpening stones I use come in two colors: gray (600-grit) and white (1,800-grit). The coarser-grit gray stone is for sharpening, and the finer-grit white stone is for honing or polishing. You do not need to add water or oil to use a ceramic sharpening stone. Most of the time, you only need to use the white stone to finely hone or polish your knife. These stones can last for years. To clean the stones, use water and a non-abrasive powder cleaner.

Ceramic sharpening stones

How to Sharpen

Sharpen like this, with the top of the blade tilted barely the height of a credit card/dime above the stone.

Don’t sharpen as shown here, at a more extreme angle.

1) Place the blade correctly. Sharpen with the coarser-grit stone by laying the knife down flat and then barely raising the back of the blade very slightly, about the height of a credit card or a dime (10 degrees) placed just under the spine or top of the blade. If the credit card or dime is pushed further under the blade, it will increase the angle of the blade, giving the wrong angle for sharpening.

Sharpen one side by moving the blade 15–20 times first.

Then sharpen the other side by moving the blade 15–20 times.

2) Sharpen both sides. Once the blade is positioned correctly on the stone, move the blade back and forth 15–20 times while maintaining the 10-degree angle, keeping equal pressure across the cutting edge. Then turn the knife over and do the same thing on the other side of the blade.

A burr has formed.

The burr is gone.

3) Remove the burr.