Cocina de Andalucia E-Book

María José Sevilla

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2024

Seitenzahl: 192

Beschreibung

Discover the cuisine from this fascinating region in Southern Spain through 75 authentic recipes Celebrating popular food and ingredients from the area, such as Iberico hams from Huelva, olive oils from Cordoba or Jaen, olives from Seville or sherry vinegar, sea salt and tiger prawns in Cadiz. This selection of truly authentic recipes have been developed by Maria Jose Sevilla during time spent in her house in Aracena near Seville. Prepare mouthwatering tapas such as Chorocitos in Oloroso Sherry, Fried Aubergines with Molasses and Gambas al Ajillo. Continue with Gazpacho Andaluz, Artichoke Flowers with Iberico Ham and Monkfish and Shellfish Salad, and Pinchitos Morunos, Oxtail or Pork Churrasco. Finish with Soft Nougat Ice Cream, Classic Torrijas and Alfajores for those with a sweet tooth. Each recipe is accompanied by short histories relating to the character of a chosen locality, a particular dish or equally important, the people that grow and prepare the food. Andalucia is the largest region of Spain and has a food tradition that is rich in shades from the past, but now a fascinating revival is taking place, supported by the array of amazing ingredients from land and sea, by memories and aromas from the past and by current innovation by Spanish chefs. La Cocina Andalucia has become even more attractive, improved without losing any of its character and taste.

Leseprobe

Cocina de

ANDALUCÍA

SPANISH RECIPES FROM THE LAND OF A THOUSAND LANDSCAPES

MARÍA JOSÉ SEVILLA

WITH PHOTOGRAPHY BY NASSIMA ROTHACKER

Contents

INTRODUCTION

ALL ABOUT INGREDIENTS IN THE KITCHENS OF ANDALUCÍA

TAPAS & RACIONES

BREADS

VEGETABLES ALL YEAR ROUND

FROM THE FISHMONGER

THEY ALSO LOVE MEAT

FOR THOSE WITH A SWEET TOOTH

INDEX & CREDITS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Introduction

Was it the light, the Andalucian light, the rich history of the place or the extensive vegetable garden that I fell in love with when I first visited El Zauzal. This small property at the heart of the Aracena National Park, 80 km northwest of Sevilla and just 60 km from the border with Portugal. The house was small and the track narrow, but the view lit by the light, which I cannot live without, awakens all senses any time of the day. It was in the middle of the summer, just in time to collect the flavoursome tomate rosa, the different coloured aubergines/eggplant, the green and the red (bell) peppers, the ‘piel de sapo’ melon as well as the yellow courgettes/zucchini. There were also figs, plums and peach trees loaded with fruit, and others such as the pomegranate, quince and persimmon waiting for the arrival of the colder season. Eighteen years ago, we bought El Zauzal, a place capable of bringing happiness for doing either very little or very much, to cook delicious Andalucian food and to write books about the ‘cocina de Andalucía’, this region that I have been travelling in for several decades while also working and living in London.

When I think of Andalucía, I do not think only in El Zauzal and the Sierras, I am equally attracted by the Mediterranean and the Atlantic coastal world, the small towns and beautiful cities dotted all along the largest region of Spain. I also think of wheat fields, sunflower plantations, vineyards and olive groves, exuberant patios bursting with plants and balconies laden with colourful geraniums, all made especially beautiful with light, that special light that is an inspiration to me. Add to this scene, succulent prawns/shrimp from Huelva, fried fish wrapped in paper cones in Sevilla, fresh tuna from Cádiz, cold almond soup from Córdoba and Málaga, sweet things from Antequera, aubergines/eggplants with molasses from Granada, vegetable salads from Almería, also the amazing breads from Jaén and the varied and unique map of Andalucian food will begin to emerge.

To appreciate the complexity of the ‘cocina de Andalucía’ we need to go back in time to understand the importance of the legacy left by the different cultures who came and went, whose food has layered and is still present in the Andalucian cooking pot; Roman, Jewish and especially Moorish from North Africa and Middle East. Cocina Mozárabe (or Andalusí), is a term still used today to name dishes that were prepared by the Christian population living under Al-Andalus, the name given to Spain by the Moors. From the end of 15th century, the arrival of ingredients from the Americas enriched the Andalucian food culture, developed further by the imagination and creativity of modern chefs.

The climate has always played a key role in southern cooking. Moderate autumn/fall and winter temperatures, a beautiful springtime and a very hot summer have always dictated the mood of the Andalucian kitchen, totally dependent on the season and the locality, and joyfully resourceful, as are the people of the towns and villages of the region. A cold glass full of gazpacho Andaluz or salmorejo Córdobes, a plate of pan-fried wild red tuna served with an orange sauce, a salad of just-ripe tomatoes dressed with a local olive oil, a few drops of sherry vinegar and sprinkled with oregano, all dishes to taste while touring Andalucía.

In a land where the vine has been grown since the beginning of time, it is not difficult to find excellent wines to accompany food and to celebrate the many festive days present in the Andalucian calendar.

I cannot imagine a Spanish table full of tapas without a copita of fino or manzanilla sherry (fortified wines produced in the region of Cádiz in an area known as the ‘sherry triangle’). This denomination of origin includes wines from Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and Puerto de Santa María. Montilla from a denomination known as Montilla-Moriles in Córdoba can be considered a cousin of sherry and is equally delicious, but it is mostly unfortified. Málaga wine is a sweet, fortified wine that is not only wonderful to drink with the desserts found in the region, but also used to give a layer of flavour to sauces served with meats and game. To complete the Andalucian wine picture there are quality white and also red wines now available on the market. Most recently I discovered the wines produced in the Denomination of Sierras de Málaga popularly known as ‘the Ronda Wines’.

All About Ingredients in the Kitchens of Andalucía

Andalucía, with a good proportion of fertile land and the richness of the waters off its Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts, offers cooks great opportunities in the kitchen. To this has to be added the many different food cultures that for centuries have left behind agricultural and food legacies, unique and diverse, unmatched in the whole of the Iberian Peninsula. Which are the main ingredients associated with the Andalucian kitchen?

Out of the wide range of vegetables and fruits produced, I enjoy in particular the large chard which is available all year round as are the orange pumpkins which are excellent for preparing the Flan de Calabaza y Caramelo (Butternut Squash Caramel Flan) on page 176. In winter, oranges, both the bitter and the sweet appear among the orange blossoms. At the start of spring tender broad/fava beans that can be eaten raw are collected from the numerous vegetable gardens dotted all over. With early summer come apricots, peaches and the very sweet dark cherries I adore. August is the month when the most delicious tomatoes and aubergines/eggplants are in season. Winter is the time to prepare quince paste and to enjoy pomegranate seeds as part of a dressing or as a dessert, sprinkled with a little sugar. At Christmas time, brightly coloured orange persimmons decorate their now leafless trees and some of the late olives, already of an intense black colour, are ready for picking to cure in salt.

Fish and shellfish dishes are plentiful. Preserved, fried, boiled, grilled, baked in salt, in soups and stews, salads or bathed with rich sauces, fish has simply been a favourite in the whole of Andalucía since ancient times. In the winter, members of the bream family are prepared in the oven over beds of potatoes covered with rich pepper sauces. In April the arrival of the wild red tuna is celebrated everywhere, especially in Cádiz where it is caught using an ancient fishing system known a ‘Almadraba’. Hake is beautifully fried as is the anchovy, the red mullet or the popular ‘acería’ (wedge sole). The passion of the Andalucians for prawns/shrimp is also impressive. Some have a good size such as the red carabineros or the exquisite Langostinos de Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Also loved are the tiny, almost translucent ‘camarones’ used in the preparation of the famous Tortillitas (see page 18) or the very tasty coloarillos fished in the waters off Málaga for example, but there are so many others.

All types of fresh meat are available everywhere but there are areas where some of the meats are preferred, especially fresh pork. You can also find a great selection of cured meats and sausages to eat as they come, or to be included in many of the substantial dishes cooked in the region such as the cocidos y potajes (stews and hearty soups) or in a bocadillo, the Spanish answer to the filled baguette.

The Ibérico pig thrives in the forests of Salamanca, Extremadura and Andalucía and especially in the Sierra de Aracena in Huelva where we live. Today the survival of this animal, with dark skin and fatted belly who loves acorns, is a great success both from an ecological and commercial point of view. Nothing is wasted with the Ibérico, from the expensive cured hams and shoulders to the chorizos and black puddings. Furthermore, fresh ibérico cuts such as pluma, secreto or solomillo are now demanded by markets and restaurants in many places around the world.

A trip across southern Spain will give an idea of the importance of the olive and of olive oil. There are thousands and thousands of trees which appear in front of our eyes when travelling through. It is easy to find Andalucían olives packed in jars or cans in supermarkets and specialist shops, but is worth searching for some particular varieties such as the Manzanilla de Sevilla or the large green Gordal. You can eat them as they come just simply cured, or marinate them at home following traditional or modern recipes. Olives cannot be eaten raw but must be cured of their natural bitterness before they are edible. To me the most delicious olives are those which are freshly picked and cured within a few weeks. To cure raw olives they are crushed first with a mallet or slashed in a few places then soaked in water for one or two weeks, changing the water every day, after which they can be marinated following local recipes.

Andalucía is the largest olive oil producer in Spain and Spain is the largest producer in the world. Ancient Rome imported thousands and thousands of litres of olive oil from the region every year, as the quality and quantity of Andalucian olive oil surpassed that of their own production. It will be impossible to understand Andalucian food without the presence of olive oil in all types of recipes, including the extensive range of confections and sweet things cooked at home and in pastelerías (cake shops). Frying in olive oil is an art Andalucians mastered and its presence in dressings, marinades and sauces is becoming more and more relevant in traditional and modern dishes.

Sherry vinegar, no longer kept as the family secret in sherry bodegas has become an ingredient we all use these days in salads and stews, in marinades and even in some desserts.

Spices have a long history, especially in Andalucía. They were brought first by Phoenician traders to the ports they established all along the Andalucian coast. The Romans brought to all of their provinces, including Hispania, rich cargos from India. For many years, trade between East and West flourished in Europe until it was halted by the Arab conquest of Alexandria in the 7th century. Spain, in the hands of the Arabs until the 15th century, was the only part of Europe which still had access to spices. Today it is in Andalucían food where the presence of spices is most evident: cinnamon, saffron, sesame, aniseed, ginger, pepper and nutmeg among others. Fresh herbs are also equally important in Andalucian food.

Andalucians also love rice dishes. Rice was brought to the Iberian Peninsula by the Arabs in the 9th century. It was planted in many places including the delta of the Guadalquivir river. In this book I have added a number of traditional Andalucian recipes cooked with rice such as Arroz con Pollo (see page 134) which is prepared with sherry.

Pasta is another of the food gifts brought by the Arabs to Al-Andalus which has always been very appreciated in Southern Spain, especially fideos. The popular Sopa de Picadillo is prepared with chicken broth, rice or the thinnest fideos as well as boiled/cooked eggs, ham and mint. In Andalucía thick fideos are added to substantial fishermans’ stews.

TAPAS & RACIONES

The World of Tapas

In Andalucía, as elsewhere in Spain, exciting changes have been made to traditional Spanish food, but at the same time you can still find very many tapas bars everywhere that serve quality traditional food cooked to a really high standard, in which little has changed, including the excellent quality of the ingredients used.

In the last decades the perception of Spanish food outside the country has radically changed. It has moved from something relatively little known and treated with indifference to being seen as probably one of the best in the world. Several reasons have contributed to this, including the opening of top-quality Spanish restaurants and tapas bars around the world. These are now in the hands of professional Spanish chefs, backed up with suitable investment.

But what are tapas? Where did they come from? Who was initially responsible for the creation of such tantalizing food? Well, tapas are collections of small dishes. The word comes from ‘tapar’, to cover. Originally a ‘tapa’ was offered by a bartender for free, to customers drinking at the bar, so a copita (glass) of sherry would be covered with a small dish of something delicious, i.e. a ‘tapa’. This custom still exists but it is slowly dying out. ‘Tapear’ is to enjoy tapas in a bar with a glass of wine or a beer or in several different bars, perhaps in the same street, by yourself or with friends. Sometimes one or both will be eaten before lunch, or before dinner at night. A large portion of a ‘tapa’ is known as a ‘ración’.

Today tapas have become more complex and a little more expensive. They are recognized now everywhere, but the real story started not so long ago in a very simple way. Tapas were born in Andalucía, and, to be precise, in Triana, a popular area of Sevilla on the west bank of the historic Guadalquivir river. Since the 19th century, numerous bars and restaurants here have been bringing pleasure to locals and visitors alike in a celebration of the way in which they prefer to eat and also to relate to other people.

Andalucía is a place where socializing matters: socializing with the bartender, with new faces you have only just met or socializing with family and friends around plates of delicious food. Here the real world of tapas exists more than in any other place – a perfect harmony between food, drink and above all people. Andalucians love informality and without doubt this is an informal way of eating.

Tapas can be very simple: a plate of marinated olives, roasted almonds or papas aliñás, which is one of my favourites. Aliñás (see page 31) are potatoes served warm, flavoured with chopped red onion and parsley, dressed cleverly with extra virgin olive oil, vinegar and salt. Tapas offers samples of the extensive traditional recipes prepared at home or in the kitchens of local bars where excellent cooks, mostly women, have always been responsible for the food. Not so long ago we could never see them as they were always working behind the scenes. Nowadays they often come out to the ‘front of house’ in their chef’s whites to greet their customers and recommend the dish of the day, whether that is artichokes in a ‘blonde’ sauce or a la plancha (from the grill) served with vinagrette or salsa mahonesa (mayonnaise), pescaíto frito (fried fish), which Andalucians know how to cook to perfection, or in spring, perhaps a complex rice dish prepared with mushrooms from the Sierras or seafood from the coast. The diversity of the tapas and their presence in different food scenarios is also part of their success. As well as in local bars they are also offered in restaurants as small sharing plates at the beginning of the meal: a plate of Ibérico ham or lomo (cured pork loin), langostinos (tiger prawns/shrimp) from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, a ración of the house Ensaladilla Rusa (see page 109), some chipirones ‘a la plancha’ (grilled baby squid), a plate of Pimientos de Padrón (see page 31) or a salad of the best tomatoes to be found, dressed with a fresh olive oil from a local producer and sprinkled with salt flakes and oregano.

Another important factor now is the emergence of modern tapas created by innovative Spanish chefs in Spain and beyond, as well as the way these dishes have been incorporated into what was before a traditionally structured menu with a section of tapas at the very beginning. What intrigues me is how difficult it can be to identify them when a modern chef has altered a classic tapa by innovation, creating something even more delicious. They may appear in a menu as an appetizer or even as a main course with a longer or different name. Is a delicious red tuna tartar on a small square of toasted bread a tapa or an appetizer? Is a succulent and tender octopus leg perfectly grilled, served with the most delicious cream of potatoes and a fashionable Mojo Rojo a racíon or a main plate? The price may not necessarily be an indication of the place a particular dish should be eaten during a meal, nor is the order in which dishes come out from the kitchen, but it cannot be over-stressed, it is the quality of the ingredients and the talent of the cook that make the difference.

Croquetas de jamón, huevo y pollo

HAM, EGG & CHICKEN CROQUETTES

Croquetasbegan as a way of combining leftovers with a béchamel sauce, to then be cleverly converted into another meal. The secret resides in a béchamel full of flavour. It is not surprising I am still making mine the same way as my mother and my grandmother did; they were wonderful. My own son Daniel makes amazingcroquetas de gambas(prawn croquettes) and my granddaughter Sophie Maria’s béchamel sauce is so delicious that my mother would have been very proud of her.

2 tablespoons Spanish olive oil, plus extra for greasing

½ a white onion, chopped

250 g/9 oz. chicken breast

2 tablespoons fino sherry or 3 tablespoons white wine

2 boiled (cooked) eggs, grated

50 g/1¾ oz. Serrano ham, chopped

FOR THE BÉCHAMEL

60 ml/¼ cup chicken stock (optional)

1 litre/4 cups whole/full-fat milk

75 g/⅓ cup butter or light olive oil

100 g/¾ cup plain/all-purpose flour

sea salt, to season

COATING

2 eggs

250 g/3 cups fine breadcrumbs

sunflower oil, for frying*

MAKES 24 CROQUETAS

*In Andalucía practically all the food is fried in olive oil, but in the case of the croquetas I prefer to use sunflower oil.

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan/skillet and sauté the onion until soft. Add the chicken breast and sauté for a few minutes. Pour in the sherry or wine and cook until the liquid evaporates and the chicken has taken some colour all over. Set aside to cool. When cold, finely chop the chicken as if you were chopping parsley, then set aside.

To make the béchamel, first gently heat the stock and milk in a saucepan. In another saucepan melt the butter over a medium heat. Start adding the flour, little by little, until it becomes fully integrated with the melted butter (I use a wooden spoon). Start adding the warm milk and stock, little by little. To work the béchamel, change the spoon for a hand whisk, stirring almost continuously, until the taste of flour has disappeared completely and you have a smooth sauce - it will take at least 30–40 minutes.

Add the grated eggs, ham and chicken to the sauce and stir for a few minutes before checking and adjusting the seasoning. When ready, the béchamel should be creamy and very shiny with a light texture, but never too thin. It should be cold before frying, so pour the sauce onto a large plate, cover with clingfilm/plastic wrap and transfer to the fridge to chill.

In a bowl, beat the eggs very well (this is important) and place plenty of fine breadcrumbs in two large dishes.

To stop the soft béchamel getting stuck on your fingers, grease your hands first with olive oil. Take a small portion of the béchamel with your fingers or with a spoon and lightly shape into a ball. Place it in the first dish of breadcrumbs. Now it will be easier to shape the croquetas properly. Using a spoon, coat each croqueta in the beaten egg and then again in the breadcrumbs. Shape with your hands for the final time and repeat until all the béchamel has been used.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan/skillet or electric deep fat fryer to about 180°C/350°F. It is vital that this temperature is maintained to avoid the delicate croquetas splitting while they fry. Cook until crisp and golden. Serve the croquetas hot.

Tortilla de patata y mermelada de cebolla

POTATO OMELETTE WITH CARAMELIZED ONIONS

Spanish food is mostly regional, but thetortillais one of the few national dishes. In Andalucía, you find tortilla offered as a‘tapa’in most bars and restaurants, or served as a light meal at home with a simple salad. Often it is filled with chorizo or peppers, but for me the best tortilla has only egg, potato and onions.

There is no traditional way of cutting the potato. It can be sliced thinly, as I do, sliced thickly or even diced. The potato should not be par-boiled but gently braised in plenty of olive oil with the onions, but the final result should not be greasy.

300 ml/1¼ cups Spanish olive oil (see Note on page 31)

2 white onions, thinly sliced

1 kg/2¼ lb. potatoes (Desiree or Maris Piper are both good)

6 medium/US large eggs

sea salt, to season

SERVES 6

First caramelize the onions. In a small saucepan heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Add the onions and cook slowly until very soft, stirring frequently. Carry on cooking until they become brown in colour and very sweet. Reserve.

Before you start cooking the potatoes, select a frying pan/skillet light enough for you to lift with one hand and a plate light and big enough to cover the pan when it comes to turning the tortilla over. Place the plate near the sink.

Peel and slice the potatoes thinly. Rinse, pat dry and season with salt. In the pan, gently heat the remaining oil over a medium heat until a small piece of potato sizzles when dropped in. Now add all the potato and start cooking. You don’t want the potato to take colour too fast, so gently turn with a fork or wooden spoon. Once the potatoes are nearly ready, add the onions. When the oil starts coming to the surface and the potato and onion are integrated and taking colour, tip all of it into a colander over a bowl to drain. Adjust the seasoning with salt if needed. Now beat the eggs in a large bowl and add the potatoes and onions from the colander, mixing thoroughly with a fork.

Pour 1–2 tablespoons of the reserved oil into the frying pan to thinly cover the base. When hot, pour the egg and potato mix and onion into the pan and cook for 2–3 minutes. Next gently push the tortilla away from one side of the pan to check that the underside is just light brown in colour.