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You can whittle just about anything—the only limit is your imagination. It's so easy to get started in this relaxing and rewarding hobby. All you need is a knife, a twig, and this book! We've assembled a team of 12 leading woodcarvers to bring you a complete starter guide to whittling. They present 24 easy whittling projects for beginners that you can make in just a weekend, complete with step-by-step instructions, how-to photographs, ready-to-carve patterns, and helpful tips. Start off with fast and fun projects that build confidence and teach fundamental carving techniques, like a simple flying propeller or a 5-minute owl. Then move on to create whittled wonders like a musical frog or a slingshot. We show you how to whittle complex designs in easy steps, so that you'll soon be carving attention-getting favorites like chain links or the classic ball-in-a-cage.
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GETTING STARTED
Choosing a Whittling Knife
Whittling Safety & Basic Knife Cuts
The Basics of Sharpening
CLASSIC DESIGNS
Hand-Carved Classics
By Kivel Weaver
Twisted Spiral Ornament
By Carol Kent
Classic Ball-in-Cage
By Addison “Dusty” Dussinger
QUICK & EASY
Flying Propeller
By Rick Wiebe
Santa Pencils
By Ron Johnson
5-Minute Owl
By Jan Oegema
5-Minute Wizard
By Tom Hindes
PROJECTS
Make a Musical Frog
By Everett Ellenwood
Simple Starter Santa
By Kathleen Schuck
Whittling a Decorative Fishing Lure
By Lora S. Irish
Carve a Caricature Pig
By Christine Coffman
WHITTLING TWIGS
Quick Carve Spreader
By Chris Lubkemann
Whittle a Twig Whistle
By Chris Lubkemann
Altering a Pocketknife to Whittle Twigs & Curls
By Chris Lubkemann
Whittling a Flower
By Chris Lubkemann
Jumping Fish
By Chris Lubkemann
Back Scratcher
By Chris Lubkemann
Stick Figures
By Chris Lubkemann
Whittling a Walking Stick
By Chris Lubkemann
Letter Opener
By Chris Lubkemann
Slingshot
By Chris Lubkemann
Wall Hooks
By Chris Lubkemann
Name Pins
By Chris Lubkemann
Fences for Everything
By Chris Lubkemann
Amazing Chain Gallery
Hand-Carved Classics, pg. 36Challenge yourself to create intricate chains and cages.
Safety Tips for Kids
Flying Propeller, pg. 17Rick Wiebe shares time-tested tips for teaching kids.
Bonus Instructions
Whittling a Decorative Fishing Lure, pg. 70Follow Lora Irish’s instructions to make a copper-wire display stand for your lure.
By Bob Duncan
One of the neat things about whittling is that you can do it anywhere. This means your knife should be portable, and nothing beats the convenience of safely slipping a folded knife into your pocket.
Many manufacturers create folding knives for whittling (or carving) with blades that resemble classic carving knives. These specialty knives can get expensive, and are worth the money if you do a lot of whittling, but you don’t need to buy a specialty knife to whittle.
Many carvers use a second pocketknife for everyday use, such as opening cardboard boxes, to avoid dulling the sharp pocketknife they use for whittling.
When selecting a pocketknife for whittling, there are a few things to keep in mind.
Many pocketknife blades are made from stainless steel. Most carving tools are made from highcarbon steel. Stainless steel holds an edge for a long time and doesn’t corrode if you close the knife with a wet blade—both great qualities for pocketknives. But because stainless steel dulls slowly, it sharpens slowly as well. Knives with high-carbon steel blades are more expensive than knives with stainless steel blades, but they are easier to sharpen.
Many manufacturers are creating high-carbon stainless steel blades, which combine the durability of stainless steel with the added benefits of carbon steel.
Some pocketknives have ten to twenty blades. These knives are generally less comfortable to use for long periods of time, and the blades you want to carve with are seldom in the center of the handle. If the knife blade is not in the center of the handle, you lose leverage, which reduces your carving power and control. Instead, look for a knife with two or, at most, three blades, which should ensure the blades are conveniently placed.
Look for a sheepsfoot blade—one where the tip of the knife is closely aligned with the main cutting edge, similar to a utility knife or standard bench knife. Many pocketknife blades have a drop-point shape, which centers the tip of the knife in the middle of the blade. The drop-point shape works well for general cutting purposes, but makes it difficult to carve small details. You can reshape a blade using sharpening stones and sandpaper, but the process is time consuming (see page 23).
A sheepsfoot blade (top) is better suited for whittling than a drop-point blade (bottom).
A locking blade keeps the sharp knife from accidentally closing on your fingers, which is a good safety feature. However, as long as you are always aware a knife can close on your fingers, you should be safe, regardless of whether or not your knife features a locking blade.
Selecting the ideal pocketknife for you is a matter of personal preference. The size of your grip compared with the size of the handle will greatly influence how comfortable the knife is to use over extended periods. The ideal knife for your friend may not be well-suited for you. Ask other whittlers for their opinions and if possible, handle several knives before making a purchase.
Available at most home stores
Pros:
• Inexpensive
• Replaceable blades eliminate the need to sharpen
Cons:
• The large triangular blade can be difficult to control in tight areas
• Requires inventory of replacement blades
• Blade can break if you pry with the blade or apply force to the sides of the blade
Available through Woodcraft, 800-225-1153, www.woodcraft.com
Pros:
• High-carbon stainless steel blades
• Two blade shapes, including a chip carving blade
• Ergonomical wood inlay handle
• Small detail blade fits into tight areas
Cons:
• Short blades make carving larger projects difficult
• Blades do not lock open
Contact Buck Knives to find a local dealer, 800-326-2825, www.buckknives.com
Pros:
• Three blade shapes allow you to carve different areas
• Large blade for fast stock removal
• Sheepsfoot blade for general carving
• Pointed pen blade for detail carving
Cons:
• Stainless steel blades
• Blades do not lock open
Contact Victorinox Swiss Army to find a local dealer, 800-422-2706, www.swissarmy.com
Pros:
• Two blades
• Small detail blade fits into tight areas
• Large blade for fast stock removal
Cons:
• Stainless steel blades
• Blades do not lock open
• Includes extra tools not used for carving
• Must remove key ring for comfortable carving
Available through Woodcraft, 800-225-1153, www.woodcraft.com
Pros:
• High-carbon stainless steel blades
• Two blade shapes, including a chip carving blade
• Ergonomical wood inlay handle
• Large blade for fast stock removal
Cons:
• Long blades make carving tight areas difficult
• Blades do not lock open
Contact Buck Knives to find a local dealer, 800-326-2825, www.buckknives.com
Pros:
• Three blade shapes allow you to carve different areas
• Large blade for fast stock removal
• Sheepsfoot blade for general carving
• Pointed pen blade for detail carving
Cons:
• Stainless steel blades
• Blades do not lock open
• Slightly larger than Buck Trio, so it can be more difficult to carve details
Contact W. R. Case and Sons to find a local dealer, 800-523-6350, www.wrcase.com
Pros:
• Three blade shapes allow you to carve different areas
• Large blade for fast stock removal
• Sheepsfoot blade for general carving
• Pointed pen blade for detail carving
• Made in USA
Cons:
• Stainless steel blades
• Blades do not lock open
The Seahorse Whittler was just discontinued so supplies are limited, but this is one of the most popular whittling knives. Some online retailers still have the knife in stock.
Pros:
• Large blade for fast stock removal
• Small sheepsfoot and pointed pen blades for detail carving
• Made in USA
Cons:
• Stainless steel blades
• Blades do not lock open
Contact Buck Knives to find a local dealer, 800-326-2825, www.buckknives.com
Pros:
• Smallest two-blade knife Buck makes
• Large blade for fast stock removal
• Sheepsfoot blade for general carving
• High-carbon steel blades
• Made in USA
Cons:
• Blades do not lock open
Contact W. R. Case and Sons to find a local dealer, 800-523-6350, www.wrcase.com
Pros:
• Large blade for fast stock removal
• Small detail blades fits into tight areas
• Made in USA
Cons:
• Stainless steel blades
• Blades do not lock open
Available from Flexcut, 800-524-9077, www.flexcut.com
Pros:
• Tempered spring steel holds and edge and sharpens easily
• Includes a roughing-out blade and a detail blade
• Made in the USA
• Comfortable wood and metal handle
• Lightweight tool fits easily in a pocket
Cons:
• Blades do not lock
Available from Stadtlander Woodcarving, 585-593-6911, www.stadtlandercarvings.com
Pros:
• High-carbon steel blade
• Large blade for fast stock removal
• Tapered blade shape allows detail carving
• Locking blade
• Made in USA
Cons:
• Single blade limits ability to carve small details
Available from Stadtlander Woodcarving, 585-593-6911, www.stadtlandercarvings.com
Pros:
• High-carbon steel blades
• Small detail blade fits into tight areas
• Large blade for fast stock removal
• Made in USA
Cons:
• Blades do not lock open
Available from several suppliers, but knives modified for easier carving by Little Shavers (206-767-7421, www.littleshavers.com) are popular among carvers.
Pros
• Large blade for fast stock removal
• Small detail blade fits into tight areas
• Locking blades
• Stainless steel alloy is easy to sharpen and resists staining
Cons
• Stainless steel alloy doesn’t hold an edge as long as other stainless steel
Available from Flexcut, 800-524-9077, www.flexcut.com
Pros:
• Tempered spring steel holds an edge and sharpens easily
• Combines a detail knife with a straight gouge, scorp, and V-scorp
• Locking blades
• Made in USA
Cons:
• Takes time to get used to shape of handle with additional tools
Available from Flexcut, 800-524-9077, www.flexcut.com
Pros:
• Tempered spring steel holds an edge and sharpens easily
• Right- and left-handed versions available for additional comfort
• Features a detail knife, bent knife, straight chisel, gouge, scorp, and V-scorp
• Locking blades
• Made in USA
Cons:
• Additional tools make the handle a bit bulky and uncomfortable for long carving sessions
By Bob Duncan
There is risk involved whenever you handle sharp tools. A knife sharp enough to cut through wood will easily cut skin. Most cuts are small nicks that heal quickly and don’t leave a scar. However, it’s best to follow simple safety procedures to prevent serious injuries.
The fundamental rule when it comes to whittling is to be aware not only of where the blade is, but where the blade could go. Wood can change density at any point, and you need to change the amount of pressure you apply on the knife based on the wood density. Imagine pushing hard to cut through a hard knot only to find a softer section of wood behind the knot. The sharp edge will quickly slice through the softer area and cut into whatever is on the other side. The knife doesn’t care if it’s open air, a carving bench, or your hand.
Boy Scouts are taught to always cut away from themselves. While this is good advice, there are times when you cut toward your thumb, such as when making a paring cut (see page 10). When making a paring cut, wear a leather thumb protector, wrap your thumb with cloth tape, or position your thumb far enough down on the project so if the knife slips, it won’t hit your thumb.
Wear a glove on the hand holding your carving.
Wear a thumb guard when cutting toward your thumb.