Complete Table Saw Book, Revised Edition E-Book

• Herausgeber: Fox Chapel Publishing
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Seitenzahl: 502

Beschreibung

Whether you've just unpacked your first table saw or have been using one for years, this complete guide features essential and up-to-date information needed to set up and tune your table saw and expand your table saw skillset. Featuring all of the most critical table saw techniques, including preparing lumber, selecting and truing blades, mastering basic to advanced cuts, and joinery techniques, this must-have manual will equip you with all the necessary skills you need to successfully and safely use your table saw. Also included in this revised edition is exclusive information on new SawStop technology. With step-by-step instructions and detailed diagrams, you'll also complete nine custom table saw projects to put all your acquired techniques and skills to use, four of which are brand new in this revised edition.

Leseprobe

© 2003, 2021 by North American Affinity Clubs

Published by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright holders.

Fox Chapel Publishing Team:

Editor: Katie Ocasio

Copy Editor: Colleen Dorsey

Designer: Chris Morrison

Indexer: Jay Kreider

Original Edition Team:

Creative Director: Tom Carpenter

Author and Editorial Coordinator: Chris Marshall

Book Products Development Manager: Mark Johanson

Photo Production Coordinator: Dan Cary

Series Design, Art Direction, and Production: Bill Nelson

Lead Photographer: Mark Macemon

Photography: Ralph Karlen

Illustrator: Craig Claeys

Technical Illustrator: John Drigot

Production Assistance: Eric Melzer and John Nadeau

Historical Table Saw Consultation and Imagery: Renier Antiques

Senior Book Development Coordinator: Jennifer Guinea

Contributing Manufacturers: Craftsman Tools, Delta International Machinery Corp., and HTC Products, Inc.

Special thanks to: Renata Mastrofrancesco, Delta International Machinery Corp.; Kelly Mehler, Technical Consultant; Paul Williams, Tried & True Tools, Fridley, MN

Print ISBN 978-1-4971-0117-3

eISBN 978-1-6076-5836-8

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Marshall, Chris, 1967-author.

Title: Complete table saw book / Chris Marshall.

Description: Revised edition. | Mount Joy : Fox Chapel Publishing, [2021] |Includes index. | Summary: “Informs readers about table saws, includingmaintenance, blade types, basic cuts, joinery techniques, andaccessories. Also includes several projects for the workshop and home”--Provided by publisher.

Identifiers: LCCN 2020049519 (print) | LCCN 2020049520 (ebook) | ISBN9781497101173 (paperback) | ISBN 9781497101555 (hardback) | ISBN9781607658368 (ebook)

Subjects: LCSH: Circular saws. | Woodwork--Patterns.

Classification: LCC TT186 .M35 2021 (print) | LCC TT186 (ebook) | DDC684/.08334--dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020049519

LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020049520

To learn more about the other great books from Fox Chapel Publishing, or to find a retailer near you, call toll-free 800-457-9112 or visit us at www.FoxChapelPublishing.com.

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Welcome to Complete Table Saw Book

Part 1: Table Saws

Introduction

Table Saw Basics

Table Saw Anatomy

Jobsite Saws

Contractor’s Saws

Cabinet Saws

Which Saw is Right for You?

Buying a Used Saw

Safety

Tune-Up and Maintenance

Before You Tune-Up Your Table Saw

Flatten the Tabletop

Check Blade and Miter Slot Alignment

Correcting Blade Heel

Setting Blade Tilt Stops

Align the Rip Fence and Miter Slots

Square the Rip Fence to the Saw Table

Tuning the Miter Gauge

Tune the Splitter or Riving Knife and Pawls

Reducing Saw Vibration

Periodic Cleaning and Lubrication

Choosing Saw Blades

Know the Parts

Know the Grinds

Evaluating Carbide-Tooth Blade Quality

Common Blade Types

Dado Blades

Making Basic Cuts

Before You Start Cutting

Making Rip Cuts

Making Crosscuts

Making Miter Cuts

Cutting Sheet Goods Safely

Cutting Cove Molding

Joinery Techniques

Different Joinery Techniques

Butt Joints

Splined Butt Joints

Rabbet Joints

Rabbet-and-Dado Joints

Tongue-and-Groove Joints

Housed Dado Joints

Blind Dado Joints

Double-Dado Joints

Lap Joints

Mortise-and-Tenon Joints

Finger Joints

Splined Miter Joints

Sawing Accessories

Rip Fences

Guards and Splitters/Riving Knives

Mitering Attachments

Molding Heads

Workpiece Support

Dust Collection Attachments

Rolling Saw Bases

DIY Workshop Essentials

Crosscut Sled

Tall Auxiliary Fence

Adjustable Tapering Jig

Spline-Cutting Jig

Outfeed Table

Tenoning Jig

Straight-Line Ripping Jig

Installing a Router Lift

Part 2: Woodworking with Sheet Goods

Introduction

Types of Wood

Plywood

Particleboard

MDF

Melamine Board

Miscellaneous Sheet Goods

Working with Sheet Goods

Handling and Storage

Joinery

Iron-On Edge Banding

Sheet Veneer

How to Square Up a Carcase

Applying Plastic Laminate

Making and Installing Shelves

Hanging Drawers and Doors

Applying a Finish

Part 3: Projects

Sheet Goods Cart

Jobsite Table Saw Mobile Base

Outfeed Cart

Base Cabinet

Wall-Hung Cabinet

Country Cupboard

Hallway Bookcase

Walnut Writing Desk

Walnut Desktop Console

WELCOME TOCOMPLETE TABLE SAW BOOK

The table saw is the workhorse of the woodshop. Cabinetmakers, fine woodworkers, and even carpenters rely on it to perform the cutting operations that are most essential to their jobs. In each of these cases, other tools become important for the finished execution of the project. But without the table saw to rip stock down to size, projects would bog down before they ever left the gate.

Cutting lumber and sheet goods to usable and finished sizes is a task at which the table saw excels, but this versatile stationary tool has much more to offer. Cross-cutting, bevel-cutting, and miter-cutting can be done with accuracy and ease on a table saw. You can also use it to cut a host of wood joints, from basic butt joints to blind dadoes to finger joints. You can even equip a table saw with specialty cutters and shapers for making your own custom moldings.

With all these abilities at your disposal, the universe of projects you can accomplish will expand immeasurably once you put a table saw at the hub of your shop. But a saw is still only a tool. To achieve pleasing results with accuracy and safety requires a lot from the saw’s operator, too.

The Complete Table Saw Book contains all the information you need to choose and use a table saw effectively. You’ll find indispensable tips on basic tune-ups and maintenance; critical information about choosing blades and accessories; step-by-step instructions for making a dozen woodworking joints on a table saw; and straightforward, fully illustrated guidance for making foolproof table saw cuts. We’ve even thrown in a little table saw history to boot.

Armed with such comprehensive information on the table saw, you’ll soon find that you’re itching to put your new skills to work. That’s why we’ve included step-by-step plans for nine useful woodworking projects that leverage the table saw’s extensive capabilities. Use these detailed plans to build basic cabinets, a desk and console, workshop projects, and a couple of functional shelving units for your home. For this book, we deliberately chose to show projects that are built entirely (or almost entirely) with sheet goods. Plywood, particleboard, and medium-density fiberboard (MDF) are ideal materials to be cut and shaped on a table saw. No other tool is as adept at taming these heavy sheets of stock. You may not automatically think of sheet goods as being suited for fine woodworking, but once you look at the projects shown here, you’ll change your mind.

A table saw is a major investment that consumes valuable floor space in any shop. By taking the time to learn all of the ins and outs of this hardworking tool, you can cause your investment in money and space to pay high dividends. When you use your table saw to build beautiful projects for your home, the dividends will increase even more. The Complete Table Saw Book is the only advisor you need to reach this potential. We think it will bring you many happy returns.

Important Notice

For your safety, caution and good judgment should be used when following instructions described in this book. Take into consideration your level of skill and the safety precautions related to the tools and materials shown. The publisher cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or persons as a result of the misuse of the information provided. Consult your local building department for information on permits, codes, regulations, and laws that may apply to your project.

PART 1

Table Saws

INTRODUCTION

Buying your first table saw is a rite of passage for most aspiring woodworkers. There comes a point in your woodworking pursuits when you reach the cutting limits of your circular saw or jigsaw and you want more: more versatility, more accuracy, more control, more power. A table saw will satisfy these needs and open new doors of possibility as your woodworking skills grow. You may discover that owning a table saw is just the push you’ve needed to step up to the challenges of more serious woodworking.

If you’re a seasoned woodworker already, your table saw is no doubt a reliable companion in the shop. It is certainly one of a handful of tools that gets put through its paces on a regular basis and makes more sawdust than gathers dust. As you’ve surely discovered, once you’ve owned a table saw and put it to good use as a cutting, joint-making, and shaping tool, it’s hard to imagine doing without one.

Whether you’ve just unpacked your first table saw or have been using one for years, this book belongs in your shop. Part 1 was developed by table saw users for table saw users. We hope that you’ll keep it next to your saw owner’s manual as an essential source of no-nonsense information about using, maintaining, and improving your saw. Our goal in creating this handbook is simple: We want you to maximize your saw’s full potential in the safest way possible.

In this section, you’ll learn the nuts and bolts of what makes a table saw the efficient cutting machine it is designed to be. We’ll help you clarify the kinds of questions you should ask when making a decision about which saw to buy, even if it means purchasing a used saw instead of new. Should you decide to buy a used saw, this section outlines what you need to know to conduct a thorough saw inspection. If the saw passes these tests, you should go home with a sound saw that will give you years of good service.

Maybe your saw isn’t cutting as accurately as it once did and is overdue for a thorough tune-up. We’ve dedicated a full chapter to tuning and maintenance, which walks you step-by-step through those essential tweaks and adjustments you should make from time to time to keep your saw in tiptop shape. If a good tune-up doesn’t do the trick, you might be able to replace a part or two on your saw to boost its cutting performance. Read the chapter on sawing accessories to learn more about aftermarket safety and precision cutting devices that may be available for your saw. Customizing the tool you already own could save you hundreds of dollars over investing in a new saw.

But all of this information is secondary to what’s most important to any woodworker: cutting wood. Using a table saw implies two requirements. First, saw with a working blade guard and splitter or riving knife whenever the cut will allow it. (Note: On some of the photographs in this book, the blade guard and splitter or riving knife have been removed for photographic purposes only.) Second, learn the fundamentals of safe sawing techniques. This section will teach you what you need to know to saw safely. You’ll learn about choosing and preparing lumber for the saw, selecting the proper blades for your cutting tasks, setting up your saw and your shop for safe sawing, and mastering essential table saw cuts, including ripping, crosscutting, mitering, and more. We’ve included a complete chapter on essential table saw jigs you can build to make your saw even more versatile, as well as an exhaustive section on cutting a host of different joints to suit any project.

Finally, if you are a history buff, you’ll appreciate studying a variety of different vintage table saws dotted throughout this book in sidebars on table saw history. The engravings and lithographs come from numerous tool catalogs printed over the last century and reveal a rich evolution of table saw style and improvements that have influenced the form and function of the saws we use today.

With hundreds of easy-to-understand full-color photographs and illustrations, we hope this book will be a resource you’ll pick up again and again to answer table saw questions, improve your sawing skills, and help make your saw both accurate and a pleasure to use.

TABLE SAW BASICS

Regardless of size, price, or style, every table saw is really just a flat table through which a blade protrudes to cut lumber. A couple of fences—one running parallel to and another perpendicular to the blade—guide workpieces as you push them into the blade. Over the past century, table saws have taken various shapes and sizes, but they have always shared an efficient and time-tested relationship between table, fences, and blade.

These days, table saws fit into three distinct families that span considerable ranges in price, features, and performance: jobsite saws, contractor’s saws, and cabinet saws. This chapter will help you understand those anatomical features shared by all saws, then clarify the differences between each saw family.

If you are preparing to buy your first table saw, use these pages to familiarize yourself with the kinds of questions you should ask before you buy. Then try out a few saws to see which features and level of performance suit your needs. Ask questions of tool dealers. Read saw reviews published in reputable woodworking magazines, especially annual tool buyers’ guides where saws are ranked side by side. Attend woodworking shows that come to your town and watch table saw demonstrations. Be curious and diligent, and you’ll surely find a saw that fits your woodworking or workshop needs perfectly.

On the other hand, if you are already on your second or third table saw, take a few moments to skim this chapter as a good refresher on the basics. It never hurts to reaffirm what you already know.

Finally, study the safety issues outlined at the end of this chapter to learn more about how you can outfit yourself, and your saw, for safe, pleasurable sawing.

Anatomy of a Table Saw

Saw Table Styles

Cabinet saws: Both the center table and extension wings on cabinet saws are made of cast iron, the most durable and flat tabletop material available. All of this iron adds a considerable amount of stability— and weight—to the saw.

Contractor’s saws: The center section of the saw table is cast iron, but the extension wings often are made of pressed steel or webbed cast iron (as shown here) instead of solid cast iron. Cast-iron extension wings are preferred over pressed steel.

Jobsite saws: The saw table and extension wings on most jobsite saws are made of a single piece of cast aluminum, which is lighter and generally less flat than iron tabletops.

TABLE SAW ANATOMY

Here is a brief overview of the major components found on most table saws.

Saw Table

The center section of most saw tables is made of cast iron to provide a rugged and dead-flat surface. Some saw manufacturers use aluminum alloys for saw tables to cut down on weight, particularly on portable jobsite saws. Saw tables may either be one piece or a combination of a center cast table with two extension wings bolted on each side. Extension wings are made of cast iron or pressed steel, and they enlarge the overall tabletop to support larger workpieces.

Throat Plate

Saw tables are equipped with a removable insert—called a throat plate—that surrounds the saw blade and sits flush with the tabletop in a recessed opening. Essentially, throat plates serve two functions: they support workpieces at the point of contact with the blade, and they provide quick access to the blade arbor for maintenance and blade changes.

Most throat plates do not fasten into the throat plate opening in the table, although some have a metal “nub” that catches underneath the saw table to keep the throat plate from lifting up during a cut. Throat plates typically employ two to four Allen screws so the plate can be adjusted flush with the table surface. Aftermarket throat plates are available for use with dado blades or molding heads. You can also build your own throat plates from hardwood (see here).

Two-rail fences, the most common fence style, clamp to tubular rails on the front and back of the saw table. A rod extends through the fence body and attaches to a hook-shaped clamp (see inset photo) on the back end of the fence. When you lock down the fence in front, the rod pulls the hook tight in back.

Rip Fence Styles

T-square fences, a newer and generally more accurate fence design, clamp to a single hollow rail along the front edge of the saw table. The back of the fence simply rests on a metal bar. Some T-square fences use an adjustable metal button (see inset photo) to glide on the back bar.

Throat plates that come with most table saws (A) are made of soft cast metal. You can also buy metal dado-blade throat plates (B) and plastic “zero-clearance” throat plate blanks (C). A throat plate does not have to be made of either metal or plastic; hardwood (D) is a suitable alternative and just as safe.

Most jobsite saws have light-duty fences that clamp directly to the saw table. A flat plate on the end of the fence (see inset photo) helps to pull the fence tight.

Miter Slots and Rip Fence

You must pass workpieces straight through the blade to cut them accurately. Any deviation from a straight path will lead to sloppy cuts, unsafe sawing conditions, or both. Saw tables are outfitted with an adjustable rip fence and miter gauge to make guiding workpieces easy and safe. Two parallel miter slots machined across the saw table on each side of the blade serve as tracks for the miter gauge.

Rip fences guide boards so they remain parallel to the blade when they are cut lengthwise (called rip-cutting). Depending on the saw, the rip fence body will be made of steel or extruded aluminum and possibly faced with plastic or laminated wood to provide a slippery, smooth bearing surface for guiding workpieces.

Rip fences must be adjustable so workpieces can be rip-cut to different widths. Typically, rip fences slide on one or two fence rails mounted along the front and back edges of the saw table (see below photos on here). Some rails are made of steel or extruded aluminum tubing, while others are simply lengths of “L”-shaped steel bar. Lower-priced saws may even have fence rails that are molded into the saw table (see bottom right photo, here).

The front fence rail is equipped with a measurement scale to help index the rip fence a specific distance from the blade. A lever and clamp mounted on the front of the rip fence pulls the fence tight against the saw table and locks it in place.

Guard and Splitter/Riving Knife

Every table saw comes outfitted with a plastic or metal blade guard that shrouds the blade, protecting you from exposure to the blade teeth as well as from sawdust and wood chips that are blown upward by the blade. All table saws have a metal splitter or riving knife that anchors the guard and aligns it with the blade. The primary purpose of a splitter or riving knife is to keep wood from pinching the back (outfeed) side of the blade during rip cuts. Splitters and riving knives are outfitted with a pair of spring-loaded anti-kickback pawls that allow a workpiece to slide in only one direction—from the infeed side to the outfeed side of the blade. In the event that the blade should grab a board and attempt to shoot it back out of the cut (a dangerous condition called kickback), the sharp points on the pawls grab the wood and hold it against the saw table.

The guard, splitter or riving knife, and anti-kickback pawls protect you from exposure to the blade, as well as workpiece kickback. Standard blade guards attach with a pivoting arm to the splitter or riving knife, so the guard can ride up and over a workpiece, then drop back into place against the saw table.

Caution

Regardless of how much easier it may be to saw without a blade guard and splitter or riving knife in place, you are completely vulnerable to both cuts and kickback without these safely items. Leave them on your saw for every cut that allows them, or replace them with an aftermarket guard and splitter or riving knife (see here).

Every table saw needs a functional guard and splitter or riving knife to operate safely. However, splitters or riving knives can fall out of alignment and guards can obscure your line of sight when you make cuts, some saw owners remove these safety devices and set them aside permanently.

Standardized Riving Knives Ensure Greater Table Saw Safety

Underwriters Laboratories UL 987 Standard for Stationary and Fixed Power Tools mandates that all table saws designed after 2008 must have a riving knife and guard that rises and falls with the saw blade, instead of a fixed-position splitter and guard. It’s a feature that has been standard on table saws in Europe and other countries but had not yet been adopted in North America. With a riving knife in place, the gap between the back of the saw blade and the front, curved edge of the riving knife remains unchanged, regardless of blade height. Formerly, the gap between the blade and splitter would vary—it increased as the blade was lowered and decreased as the blade was raised. Riving knives now help to ensure that a constant and close proximity to the blade will reduce the possibility of workpieces pinching the blade as they exit the cut during rip cut operations and causing a kickback accident.

Miter gauge

A miter gauge is comprised of a swiveling metal head mounted on a flat metal bar that tracks in the miter slots. A miter gauge is used for making crosscuts on either side of the blade. The head functions like a protractor, so it can be set and locked to any angle between 30° and 90°. Most miter gauges are outfitted with adjustable positive stops at 90° and 45°.

When the miter gauge head is set at 90°, the miter slots ensure that a workpiece held against the miter gauge will meet the blade squarely (called crosscutting).

Note

Some miter gauges mark 0° to be perpendicular, or square.

Saw Controls

Most table saws are outfitted with two handwheels that are used to adjust the blade. The front handwheel allows you to raise and lower the blade, and the side handwheel controls blade tilt. Worm gears on the ends of the handwheel shafts mesh with teeth on either the front trunnion or the arbor assembly and pivot these parts (see illustration, next page). A few models incorporate both blade tilt and blade height functions into one handwheel. On these saws, the handwheel is switched between tilting and height adjustments by flipping a lever located behind or near the handwheel. In either case, once you’ve set the blade, you simply tighten a knob in the center hub of each handwheel to lock in the blade settings.

The ON/OFF switch on any saw should be positioned prominently and within easy reach. You should be able to trigger the ON/OFF switch without looking at it. Move the switch box on the saw base if it’s in an inconvenient place so you can shut the saw off instinctively and quickly in the event of an emergency.

Miter gauges, used for making crosscuts and miter cuts, have a swiveling protractor-style head mounted on a bar that fits into the miter slots in the saw table. A handle screws into the bar and locks the fence.

Table saw operating controls should be accessible and sturdy. This cabinet saw features large ON/OFF buttons, an easy-to-read blade tilt scale, and rugged steel handwheels located within easy reach from the front of the saw.

Internal Table Saw Components

The layout and shape of individual saw parts will vary from saw to saw, especially on jobsite models, but here are the essential mechanicals contained in most saws:

A. Blade-tilting handwheel

B. Blade-elevating handwheel

C. Blade-tilting worm gears

D. Front trunnion

E. Throat plate

F. Arbor assembly

G. Blade arbor

H. Rear trunnion

I. Motor

J. Rear cradle

K. Motor pulley

L. Drive belt

M. Arbor pulley

N. Blade-elevating worm gears

O. Front cradle

Motor and Inner Mechanicals

Table saw “transmissions” consist of an electric motor that sits beneath the saw table or hangs behind it to drive the blade. The blade mounts with a large nut to a shaft called an arbor that spins on two or more sealed bearings set into a cast-iron or steel arbor assembly. (In the case of jobsite table saws, which will be discussed later in this chapter, the blade may bolt directly to the motor shaft, so the motor shaft serves as the arbor.) The motor transfers power to the blade by way of one to three V-shaped flexible drive belts and a couple of pulleys mounted on the motor and arbor shafts.

On cabinet and contractor’s saws, the arbor assembly connects to a cast-iron cradle that hangs from semicircular trunnions in front and back. The cradle holds the arbor assembly and motor in line with one another so the drive belts do not have to twist as the arbor tilts. As you turn the blade-tilting handwheel, the cradle meshes with worm gears on the handwheel and slides along arcs formed on the trunnions, which tilts the blade. When you turn the blade-elevating handwheel to raise and lower the blade, worm gears pivot the arbor up and down.

Refer to the illustration above for a general overview of saw mechanicals. The appearance of parts on your saw will vary. To acquaint yourself with the specific mechanicals of your saw, refer to the technical drawings printed in your owner’s manual.

Saw Base

All of a table saw’s hardware and controls are contained in a sturdy saw base. Saw bases vary in construction, shape, and size, but they provide a stable platform for the saw table, rip fence, and mechanicals. Bases are made of either steel or high-impact plastic. Some bases form floor-standing cabinets (from which cabinet saws get their name), while other bases are shorter in order to sit on a worksurface or are outfitted with legs to make the saw floor-standing.

JOBSITE SAWS

Jobsite table saws are the smallest table saws you can buy. Most saws in this category have tables that are less than 3′ wide and 2′ deep, so they can be transported easily. Weighing less than 50 lbs. fully assembled, jobsite saws are easy for most people to carry by themselves.

Given their size and weight, jobsite saws are popular these days with contractors, who can tote them from job site to job site and set them up on the tailgate of a truck or on a couple of sawhorses. A jobsite saw may be a good choice for you if you are an occasional woodworker or weekend remodeler. Those who work in cramped basement shops or who need their full-time garage to double as a workshop will also appreciate the smaller proportions of a jobsite saw. Set it on a shelf or under a workbench, and it’s out of the way, without sacrificing any additional floor space.

In addition to being fully portable, consumer-grade jobsite saws are also the least expensive new saws to purchase. Jobsite saws may run on corded 115-volt current or rechargeable lithium-ion batteries. Most jobsite models accept standard 10″-diameter table saw blades, so the small size of the saw doesn’t limit your cutting capacity. Jobsite saws can also accept smaller diameter circular saw blades, as can most other table saws with ⅝″ arbors.

Along with their advantages, jobsite saws have their limitations. Older jobsite saws may have relatively crude rip fences that are difficult to keep adjusted, steel (rather than cast-iron) components in the undercarriage, and small miter gauges with less precise protractor scales. Saw tables are usually made of aluminum alloys rather than cast iron, so they aren’t as rigid or flat as the tables on larger saws. Fortunately, the popularity of these saws is improving the quality of the components that manufacturers use, especially concerning rip fences. Many new jobsite saws are outfitted with rugged rip fences that use rack-and-pinion gears to make them capable of greater precision. But not all jobsite saws are created equal; price is a good indicator of quality.

Jobsite saws are direct-drive saws, which means the saw blade mounts directly to the motor shaft. There is no separate arbor shaft. These saws are powered by universal motors, the same motors used in handheld power tools like routers, sanders, circular saws, and corded drills. Universal motors are designed to develop peak power for short periods of time at high revolutions, so they run at relatively high amperage (usually around 15 amps). This means that jobsite saw motors are capable of short bursts of power, which may exceed even 2 h.p., but they can’t sustain heavy sawing loads for cutting hardwoods, wet lumber, or long, thick boards.

Larger contractor’s and cabinet saws, as you’ll see on the following pages, use slower-spinning induction motors that run at lower amperage (230-volt induction motors run at half the amperage of the average jobsite saw). Induction motors run cooler and maintain more even horsepower under load. Jobsite saws are powered by universal motors primarily because the motors are much lighter in weight and smaller proportionally than induction motors, so they fit into smaller, more confined saw bases. Universal motors are a perfectly suitable power plant for occasional hard use. However, be aware that these motors are noisier, generate greater vibration, and tend to wear out sooner than induction motors.

Jobsite saws are portable, powerful, and inexpensive. Their lightweight construction, however, means they have smaller tabletops, rip fences, and miter gauges and make more noise. They can also produce more vibration than heavier saws. Jobsite saws are best suited for simple woodworking and remodeling tasks.

A jobsite saw without a floor stand or rolling wheelbase can tuck conveniently beneath a workbench or on a shelf, without taking up additional floor space in the shop. Weighing 50 lbs. or less, these saws are easy for most people to lift and carry alone.

Batteries Bring More Versatility to Jobsite Saws

Lithium-ion battery technology has expanded the range of cordless power tool options over the last decade. Advancements in battery capacity and runtime now make it possible to operate some jobsite table saws with 20- to 60-volt cordless tool batteries instead of 115-volt alternating current. A few jobsite saw models can accept either a rechargeable battery or an AC adapter that plugs into household current. While this technology is still limited to portable table saws and not contractor or cabinet saws, the enhancement is particularly helpful to contractors and remodelers who occasionally must operate on jobsites with minimal or no available electrical service.

Blades mount directly to the motor shaft on a jobsite saw, just as they do on a portable circular saw. Raising, lowering, and tilting the blade involves moving the motor as well as the blade. There are no drive belts to replace on direct-drive saws.

One drawback to jobsite saws is that most are outfitted with lower-quality miter gauges and rip fences that are difficult to set precisely. On the jobsite saw miter gauge shown here, the protractor scale is calibrated in 5° increments, versus single-degree markings on the contractor’s saw miter gauge. You’ll need single-degree precision from a miter gauge if you plan to do complex woodworking.

The layout of blade adjustment controls will vary from saw to saw. This particular jobsite saw uses a knob rather than a handwheel to set blade height. A lever behind the knob controls blade tilt. This saw has scales for both blade height and tilt.

CONTRACTOR’S SAWS

If you think about table saws as if they were cars, jobsite saws would be the subcompacts, while contractor’s saws would be the mid-priced family sedans. This is because contractor’s saws offer the best compromise between cost, quality, and features in a full-sized table saw. Like their jobsite cousins, contractor’s saws are designed to be somewhat portable, weighing between 200 lbs. and 300 lbs. But with an overall height of around 34″, you wouldn’t want to load and unload these saws from a vehicle on a daily basis. Any contractor’s saw can be outfitted with a rolling saw base, however (see here), so the saw can be rolled wherever it is needed or out of the way for storage.

Contractor’s saws are designed for rigorous daily use, whether you are a serious woodworking hobbyist, contractor, or furniture builder. Typical saw table dimensions are around 40″ wide and 27″ deep, including extension wings, which gives most contractor’s saws a ripping capacity (the distance from the blade to the farthest position of the rip fence away from the blade) of nearly 2 ½′. This table geometry makes contractor’s saws capable of ripping full-sized sheets of plywood in half, lengthwise—an unwieldy feat on smaller saws.

One distinctive feature of a contractor’s saw is the location of the motor, which hangs outside the saw base in back of the saw. The motor is mounted on a hinged plate, so the weight of the motor actually provides all the tension on the drive belt that spins the blade arbor.

Most contractor’s saws are powered by a 1 ½- to 2-h.p. induction motor, a beefier power plant than a comparable universal motor. Outfitted with a 10″-diameter blade, a contractor’s saw can cut through virtually any hardwood or softwood up to 3″ thick in one pass. Many saws can be rewired to operate on either 115- or 230-volt current. Converting the motor from one voltage to the other isn’t difficult; it’s a simple matter of replacing the plug and power cord and reconnecting a few wires (see here).

Contractor’s saws offer the best compromise between cost, quality, and features in a full-sized table saw. Better-quality contractor’s saws have cast-iron arbor and cradle assemblies as well as cast-iron saw tables and extension wings. Precision T-square fences and extension tables now come standard on many models.

You can immediately identify a contractor’s saw if the motor hangs behind the saw base. A drive belt connects a pulley on the motor with a pulley on the blade arbor. Having the motor exposed makes it easier to maintain, but it enlarges the saw’s overall footprint.

The combination of price and performance makes contractor’s saws a lower-cost alternative to cabinet saws for professional woodworkers. This contractor’s saw, located in a custom furniture shop, is outfitted with large extension and outfeed tables as well as a precision rip fence. The setup makes it easy for one builder to manage full-sized sheets of plywood.

Contractor’s saws are pricier than jobsite saws, but the difference in price is easy to justify when you evaluate performance and features. Undercarriage components like the arbor and cradle assemblies typically are made of cast iron, which means contractor’s saws deliver smoother cuts with minimal vibration. Plus, heavier cast-iron undercarriage parts will tend to keep a saw in tune longer than lighter-weight undercarriage parts.

One big advantage to contractor’s saws is that they are the target tool for manufacturers of aftermarket add-on equipment. Manufacturers offer a wide assortment of precision rip fence systems, better-quality miter gauges, improved blade guard systems, and accessory sawing attachments like dado blades and molding head cutters. Some contractor’s saws come with micro-adjustable rip fences and extension tables as standard items. These accessories can increase the ripping capacity of the saw from 2′ to more than 4′.

Aside from a higher price tag than most jobsite saw models, the downsides to owning a contractor’s saw are few, but you should consider that contractor’s saws unavoidably take up more floor space. Even without long extension tables, a basic contractor’s saw will take up about the same amount of floor space as a small riding lawn tractor. Another nuisance involves dust collection. Both the bottom and back of the saw must be covered up to keep sawdust from blowing out of the saw or dropping to the floor. Some saws can be outfitted with a plate that covers the bottom of the saw base and a port for connecting to a shop dust collection system (see here).

Table Saw History

Hand-Powering Sawing

Parks Self-Feed Ripsaw (circa 1892)

Prior to the mid 1920s, a saw was either belt-driven from a central power source in the factory or was hand- or foot-powered. Notice the large cast-iron flywheel and handle on the left side of this ripsaw. An operator would spin the flywheel, and the weight of the wheel would keep the saw blade spinning while making a cut.

CABINET SAWS

To continue the car analogy, cabinet saws are the luxury sedans of table saws. They are designed for professional use in commercial cabinet and woodworking shops, but they are also widely available to woodworkers. What sets these saws apart from other table saws in terms of performance and reliability has to do mostly with sheer mass. Cabinet saws feature hefty cast-iron undercarriages and arbor assemblies. Saw tables are made of thicker cast iron, and most cabinet saws also have solid cast-iron extension wings, as opposed to pressed-steel or webbed-iron extension wings found on other saws. To support all of this weight, cabinet saw bases are made of heavier-gauge steel and enclose the motor and arbor assembly on all four sides. Weighing in at more than 400 lbs., cabinet saws aren’t portable, though they can be outfitted with rolling bases.

There are two advantages to all of this heavy metal. First, heavier components, particularly the arbor and cradle assemblies and motor mount, dampen vibration. The smoother the saw runs, the less the blade vibrates, which results in smoother cuts. Smoother operation also means that cabinet saws stay in tune for longer periods of time than other saws, especially if they aren’t moved around the shop.

The second advantage to heavier components is strength. To meet the demands of commercial woodworking, where they may be cutting thick hardwood or plowing dadoes all day long, most cabinet saws have heavy-duty 3- to 5-h.p. induction motors that run at 230 volts. The typical blade capacity is 10″, but saws taking 12″- and 14″-diameter blades are also available for commercial use.

To manage the torque that a larger motor develops, as well as to handle heavy stresses put on the saw blade, cabinet saws often use two or three drive belts to spin the arbor, as opposed to only one drive belt on contractor’s saws. Brawny arbor and cradle parts ensure that the motor and belts won’t twist the arbor assembly out of alignment. This way, the saw delivers power efficiently from motor to blade without compromising accuracy.

For all this performance and durability, the typical cabinet saw doesn’t take up the floor space of a luxury car. Saw table dimensions are about the same as a contractor’s saw, not including add-on accessories. Cabinet saws also handle dust collection more efficiently than jobsite or contractor’s saws, mainly because the enclosed base captures the dust. New cabinet saws come with a hose port built into the saw base, which can connect directly to a shop dust collection system.

A sizable range of aftermarket accessories are available for cabinet saws, such as precision rip fence and miter gauge systems, improved blade guards and splitters, outfeed support tables, and rolling saw bases. For a sampling of these aftermarket accessories, see here.

If all of this performance sounds appealing, brace yourself when you go shopping for a cabinet saw. Heavy-duty construction and professional-quality components don’t come cheap. Better-quality cabinet saws start at around two to three times the price of a contractor’s saw, and you can spend as much as for a good used car if you buy a professional-grade cabinet saw with all the accessories. Also be aware that you’ll need 230-volt service in your shop to power up nearly any cabinet saw, which will probably require hiring an electrician on top of the cost of the saw.

Cabinet saw motors mount to the underside of the saw table inside the cabinet. This helps reduce both noise and dust. Massive cast-iron cradle assemblies provide rock-solid transmission of power between the motor and the blade arbor. The bulk also helps soak up vibration.

Blade arbors on larger cabinet saws are usually made of cast iron, often outfitted with two to four drive pulleys and just as many drive belts. Notice the heft of the cast-iron arbor assembly and trunnions on this saw.

WHICH SAW IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

Despite the fact that there are only three basic saw types to choose from, picking the right saw can still be a tough decision. While the caliber of the saw you use will affect the quality of the cuts you make, spending more money on a professional-grade saw won’t necessarily turn you into a better woodworker. Patience, experience, and careful planning always influence how your projects turn out. On the other hand, buying a budget-priced saw that fits your needs today may leave you wanting more from your saw a year or two down the road. So choose a saw wisely, based on your skill level, woodworking expectations, and budget. Here are a few issues to keep in mind when selecting a saw.

Evaluate Your Current Sawing Needs

Consider the kind of woodworking you actually do today to clarify your present sawing needs. Someone who spends an occasional weekend in the shop building small, simple projects is obviously going to have different cutting needs than the person who builds cabinets or custom furniture for a living. If the sum total of your sawing amounts to making butt joints and simple bevel cuts with a circular saw, or if your “woodworking” really boils down to cutting framing lumber for remodeling projects, do you really need a saw with 30″ of ripping capacity and a 3-h.p. motor? Probably not. A jobsite saw may be the practical solution for the kind of work you do.

Rugged construction combined with a heavy-duty induction motor make cabinet saws the right choice for rigorous cutting tasks, like working with dense hardwoods or quantities of oversized lumber.

If your woodworking requires a high degree of precision, especially if you frequently cut dadoes or raised panels, buy a saw that offers you smooth, solid performance with an amply powered induction motor of at least 1 ½ h.p.

Plan Ahead

In addition to evaluating your present needs, be forward-thinking about where your woodworking is headed in the future. If you see your woodworking interests growing, buy a saw that will continue to be a strong performer for years to come. For example, if shop space is at a premium, but you know you’ll be cutting dadoes, thick lumber, or larger sheet goods, think twice before you buy a jobsite table saw. Even though the size of the saw might fit perfectly in your present shop space, most jobsite saws are somewhat restrictive in terms of the quality and type of cuts they make. Plus, your accessory options will be limited (see the chart on here).

A better solution would be to rearrange your shop (and maybe toss some clutter) to make room for a larger contractor’s saw. Think of it this way: When the size of your shop and your skill level grow—and both probably will—the saw will grow with you.

Consider Your Woodworking Budget

Woodworking is no different from any other specialized hobby when it comes to budget-draining expenses. The price range for a table saw is truly wide open. If price and shop floor space were of no consequence, every woodworker would probably own a top-of-the-line cabinet saw. However, most budget-conscious woodworkers would find it difficult to justify paying the huge price of a professional-quality saw. Determine how a saw fits into the rest of the woodworking tool arsenal you still need to buy—routers, planers, jointers, sanders, band saws, power miter saws, drill presses, lathes—the list goes on and on. Then buy as much jobsite, contractor’s, or cabinet saw as your budget allows. Don’t discount the possibility of buying a used saw, either. For more information on buying a used versus new saw, see here.

The Bottom Line

For most woodworkers, a 10″ contractor’s saw with a 2-h.p. motor and precision rip fence is a sensible saw to buy. The table is large enough to handle workpieces of all sizes, and the undercarriage and arbor will handle the rigors of cutting with dado blades and molding heads. Since it’s a middle-of-the-road saw, you’ll be able to customize a contractor’s saw as you like, with an assortment of aftermarket accessories.

If you spend the majority of your shop time remodeling or building simple woodworking projects, a jobsite saw can provide you the versatility you need at an affordable price.

Table Saw History

Table Saw and Horizontal Borer, All in One

The Egan Co. No. 3 Improved Variety Saw

Around 1902, this belt-driven cast-iron saw served double duty as a horizontal boring machine. As with other saws of its time, the saw table tilted, raised, and lowered, while the saw arbor and blade remained fixed in place. A bit chuck, mounted to the opposite end of the arbor from the blade, was used for boring tasks. A separate drilling table on the right side of the saw could be raised or lowered in relation to the drill bit, then plunged forward into the bit to drill a hole.

You’ll need a full-sized contractor’s or cabinet saw for cutting sheet goods and other long stock safely. Either saw will give you the option of adding other helpful accessories later, like extension tables and precision rip fences.

Multipurpose Machines

Robland LX Combination Machine

A number of manufacturers offer woodworking machinery that combines several stationary tools in one unit. The table saw is the heart of these machines, configured with other tools like jointers, horizontal borers, planers, shapers, and sanders. Some models have a single heavy-duty motor that is slid into different positions on the machine to power one tool at a time. Others incorporate several motors that work independently to run separate tools. The advantage to owning one of these multipurpose machines is that you can combine a shop’s worth of stationary tools in one place. However, multipurpose machines are expensive, and the size of the table and fences for each tool might be limited. Spend some time using one of these machines, then try their individual stationary counterparts to see which approach will fit your woodworking needs best.

BUYING A USED SAW

If purchasing a saw “fresh out of the box” isn’t as important for you as getting the most for your money, consider purchasing a used table saw. You’ll find used saws advertised in the classified ads of newspapers and woodworking magazines from time to time, as well as at auctions and garage or estate sales. Typically, the market for used table saws is quite good, so be aware that they may be difficult to find and may sell quickly. However, be persistent; aside from the amount of money you could save buying secondhand, there are a couple more compelling reasons to consider a used saw. First, buying used versus new may allow you to get a better-quality saw for the same money. Second, well-cared-for table saws made by reputable manufacturers, especially saws with induction motors and cast-iron tables, arbors, and cradle assemblies, are truly rugged tools with long lifespans. “Used” in no way implies “used up.” You may need to replace a few belts or bearings on a 30-year-old saw, but you’ll probably still come out ahead price-wise compared to buying a brand-new saw.

A host of hobbyist professional, older, and newer saws are available secondhand, as this used tool store proves. With some careful shopping and a bit of refurbishing, there’s no reason a used saw can’t perform as reliably and accurately as a new one—and possibly for a fraction of the cost.

Evaluating a Used Saw

Here are some components you’ll want to inspect closely when diagnosing the condition of a used saw.

Saw Table

Examine the saw table closely for hairline cracks. They may be difficult to see, and a magnifying glass can help. Cracks are an obvious indicator that the table has been subjected to some sort of trauma. It may have been removed from the saw and accidentally dropped. The saw may have tipped over during transport or could have been used as a makeshift workbench and damaged by a hammer blow. In any case, unless you know a qualified machine shop that can repair the crack, you’re better off finding another saw. New saw tables are expensive and can be very difficult to locate for older models that are no longer made.

Carefully check the table for unevenness across the surface using a steel straightedge. It’s impossible to do accurate work on a table saw that has an uneven tabletop. Check the saw table for flatness in all directions—lengthwise, widthwise, and diagonally. Note: Inspect how the extension wings are attached to the saw table when you’re checking with a straightedge. It’s common for the extension wings to be bolted slightly above or below the level of the center table, which will throw off your inspection. You can easily level the extension wings by repositioning or shimming them (see here).

Minor warping (1/16″ or less across the saw table) can be corrected by having the table ground flat at a machine shop, although this might be expensive and can weaken the table. You can clean up other slight imperfections in the tabletop, like pitting from minor corrosion or scoring from fence and miter gauge wear and tear, by rubbing down the tabletop carefully with rubbing compound or naval jelly and a scrub pad (see here). Minor pitting and scoring is nothing to worry about and won’t affect the saw’s accuracy.

Arbor and Bearings

Another area of concern when considering a used saw is the condition of the arbor and bearings. On good-quality saws with cast-iron and heavy-gauge-steel mechanicals, it takes many years of hard use to generate significant wear, unless the saw was misused or subjected to moisture and allowed to rust.

To test the arbor, remove the throat plate and drive belts that connect the motor to the arbor so the arbor turns freely. Spin the blade by hand and listen (see bottom photo, here). If you hear any clicking or grinding sounds, the arbor bearings are worn. Rotate the arbor with your fingers and you’ll feel the grittiness of pitted, grinding bearings. If the bearings are worn, they can be replaced or remanufactured by a good machine shop (they’ll be tough to remove and install yourself without specialized bearing pullers and presses).

Use a straightedge to examine the saw table for warping as well as high and low areas. A dead-flat tabletop is critical to saw accuracy. You can correct minor warping (less than 1/16″ across the table), but avoid saws with more severe warping.

While you’re at it, check the condition of the arbor shaft. It should be smooth and spin without noticeable wobble. Inspect the arbor shaft threads that hold the flange, blade, washer, and nut in place. The threads should be clean and smooth.

Note

In the case of direct-drive saws, the motor armature shaft is machined with threads on the end to serve as the saw’s arbor. Use the same arbor tests to determine if the armature bearings are worn. Most high-quality electric motors can be serviced at reasonable prices. The presence of worn armature bearings isn’t necessarily a reason to pass the saw up.

Inspect the inner V-faces of the pulleys that connect the drive belt or belts to the arbor and motor. Pulley faces should be clean, flat, and smooth in the area where the belt rides. If the faces bow outward, the pulley or pulleys are worn and the belt will likely slip or burn when the saw is cutting under load. Don’t worry if the pulleys are in good shape but the drive belts are cracked or worn; belts are inexpensive to replace. Replace belts with those recommended by the saw manufacturer.

Tip

If the saw has multiple drive belts, be sure to ask for “matched sets” when you order the belts. Matched sets will ensure that the circumferences match exactly so the belts will wear evenly.

Cradle, Trunnions, and Worm Gears

The cradle, trunnions, and worm gears are responsible for supporting and moving the blade arbor. Since these parts move, eventually they will begin to wear. Here’s how to evaluate their condition. Lay the saw on its side (or peer down through the throat plate opening). Inspect the condition of the handwheel worm gears and the gear teeth on the trunnions and arbor assembly. Look for uneven wear from tooth to tooth or metal dust around these parts.

Check the arbor bearings for wear by removing the drive belt(s) (on contractor’s and cabinet saws) and spinning the blade by hand. Listen for clicking and grinding, which are sure signs of bearing wear. Arbor bearings are fairly inexpensive to replace.

Check the condition of the worm gears and trunnions by cranking both handwheels over the full range of blade movement. The handwheels should turn smoothly, without binding.

Stresses on these meshing parts, coupled with debris and grit that get thrown off the saw blade, can cause gears to wear or chip, especially if they aren’t lubricated. (For more on periodic lubrication, see here.) Test the action of the gears by turning the handwheels. The gears should mesh evenly, quietly, and smoothly.

Other General Considerations

Take a step back and look at the overall condition of a used saw. Inspect for signs of good saw maintenance and proper usage, including:

• minimal corrosion on metal parts

• the throat plate does not show signs of saw blade damage, an indicator that the saw has been severely out of tune or suffered kickback or some other severe blade trauma

• power cord and plug are free of cracks or frays

• rip fence slides smoothly and completely along the fence rails

• the saw isn’t missing bolts, screws, and other fasteners and these parts are tight

Ask the owner for the owner’s manual that came with the saw, particularly if the saw is old. You might need it for ordering replacement parts later on.

Test Drive before You Buy

Finally, take the saw for a “test drive.” The motor should start without hesitation, bring the blade up to speed quickly, and have an even-sounding pitch when it reaches full power. If you can, make a few test cuts. Does the motor labor excessively under loads? Does the saw vibrate noticeably when it’s running or cutting? Does the saw cut cleanly and evenly or does it leave ragged, uneven cuts and burn marks?

Damaged throat plates are a telltale sign that the saw was abused or severely out of tune at some point. Scrutinize a saw with throat plate damage for other signs of neglect.

Many aspects of saw performance can be improved by simply tuning up the tool or installing a sharp blade, but consider that poor saw performance may indicate a lack of good general care the saw has been given by its owner over time.

Table Saw History

Guard and Splitter Assembly

J. A. Fay & Co. guard and splitter assembly (circa 1900)

This guard and splitter assembly, patented by J. A. Fay & Co. in 1900, represents one of the first examples of table saw safety equipment available commercially. Notice that the guard covers the blade from above but not from the side, and it pivots up and down to ride on top of workpieces as they are passed through the blade. The guard, which undoubtedly was made of cast iron and steel, fastened to the splitter with a removable pin. Several holes on the splitter allowed the guard to be raised to accommodate thicker stock.

SAFETY

Table saws are wonderfully efficient and versatile tools, and they’re capable of making nearly every straight cut you’ll ever need for woodworking, but they have an inherent dark side. Regardless of how carefully you follow safety precautions, you can’t change a table saw’s basic characteristics. A standard table saw spins a 10″-diameter saw blade at around 4000 rpm, or about 120 mph. Every time you make a cut, the blade puts your hands and forearms at risk of injury, even when all of the saw’s safety equipment is installed. This kind of blade velocity also generates a considerable amount of dust and noise. Sawdust is irritating, especially if you have allergies, and the blade noise can be permanently debilitating over time.

The good news is you can easily take measures to protect yourself. The following section covers personal safety items you should have on hand, proper workshop attire for sawing, and other information related to table saw safety. Refer to the next chapter on “Making Basic Cuts,” here, for more information about those safety precautions you should take as you prepare to make and then execute specific kinds of cuts.

Use Pushing Tools and Featherboards

As a rule, keep your hands as far from the spinning blade as you can without relinquishing control of the workpiece. Here are several simple devices for cutting safely:

A push stick is simply a straight or curved handle, usually made of scrap wood, with a notch on the end for holding workpieces securely against the saw table.

Push pads, commonly used with jointers, are rectangular plastic blocks with a handle on top and a non-skid lining. They spread workpiece control over a broader area when pushing boards facedown over the saw.

Pushing tools are inexpensive, but they are also easy to make. There’s no specific formula for designing the best push sticks, just a few general rules: you should be able to grip them comfortably; they should keep your hands far enough above the blade to be safely clear of it; and they should allow you to control the workpiece without feeling awkward.

Featherboards hold a workpiece snugly against the saw table and rip fence. They typically are made from a length of hardwood stock with a series of parallel 3″- to 5″-long saw kerfs cut into one edge, forming springy “feathers” in the wood. You can make them easily in the shop (see “Making Featherboards,” next page), or you can buy inexpensive wood, plastic, or magnetic-soled models.

Pushing tools for table saws. Plastic push sticks (A) and push pads (B) are inexpensive to buy, but simple wooden push sticks (C) are easy to make. Keep a long-soled pusher (D) handy for providing broad support as well as a thin pusher (E) for squeezing into narrow spaces between the blade and rip fence.

Making Featherboards

Select a length of hardwood scrap about 3 to 4″ wide and 14″ to 18″ long. The length of the featherboard will depend on how far the featherboard must reach to the edge of the saw table for clamping purposes. Draw a line widthwise across the face of the board, about 5″ from one end. Miter-cut the end of the board closest to this layout line at about a 40° angle (the angle can vary anywhere from 30° to 45°). Then, using a band saw or jigsaw, make a series of parallel cuts from the angled end of the board to your layout line to form the flexible “feathers.” Space the cuts evenly about ⅛″ to ¼″ apart.

Featherboards keep workpieces moving in the only safe direction: from front to back through the blade. Some featherboard designs incorporate a powerful magnet (A) to hold them tightly to the table. Other styles clamp to the rip fence (B), to the saw table (C), or pressure-fit by way of a short bar fitted into the miter slots (D).

Keep Your Senses Sharp

Never operate a table saw while under the influence of alcohol or other drugs that make you drowsy, dull your senses, or impair clear thought. It takes only a fraction of a second for sawing accidents to happen, so you have to focus your attention on what you are doing every time you make a cut. Think through the sequence of steps that will be required to perform a cutting operation before you begin, and keep in mind what your safe response should be when you encounter a problem (see the chart on here). Stop your work at the table saw if you find yourself starting to lose track of what you are doing or begin to feel frustrated or fatigued. Be particularly careful when you are making repetitive cuts; monotony leads to distraction, which invites accidents.

Dress Appropriately

Wear comfortable, rubber-soled shoes that give you good traction on your shop floor. Roll up long sleeves if they fit loosely, to keep them from getting caught on a workpiece, or worse, the saw blade. Keep pencils and other marking tools out of shirt pockets when sawing so they don’t fall out and roll into the blade as you lean over the saw. Do not wear gloves while operating a table saw. You’ll get a better grip on a workpiece if you manipulate it bare-handed, and your fingertips will warn you instantly if your feed rate changes or the board begins to behave erratically. Working without gloves means you may have to heat your shop in the wintertime to warm your hands, but extra warmth will keep the rest of your body’s reflexes sharper and make your woodworking more comfortable anyway.

Unplug the Saw Whenever It Is Not Being Used