Creating Wooden Boxes on the Scroll Saw E-Book

Editors of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts

• Herausgeber: Fox Chapel Publishing
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2009

Seitenzahl: 133

Beschreibung

Uniting form and function without complicated joinery or the need for a shop full of tools this crafting guide offers step-by-step instructions and patterns for 24 unique keepsake boxes, made exclusively with the scroll saw. Incorporating popular scroll saw techniques like fretwork, segmentation, intarsia, and layering, the projects include a holiday card holder, a desktop organizer, a patriotic flag box, and themed ideas for hikers, patriots, cowboys, and poker players. Favorites from pattern designers such as John Nelson, Gary Browning, and Rick and Karen Longabaugh are included as well as many other celebrated favorites from the pages of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts.

Leseprobe

© 2009 by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552.

Creating Wooden Boxes on the Scroll Saw is an original work, first published in 2009 by Fox Chapel

Publishing Company, Inc. The patterns contained herein are copyrighted by the authors. Readers may make copies of these patterns for personal use. The patterns themselves, however, are not to be duplicated for resale or distribution under any circumstances. Any such copying is a violation of copyright law.

For a printable PDF of the patterns used in this book, please contact Fox Chapel Publishing at [email protected].

Print ISBN 978-1-56523-444-4eISBN 978-1-60765-902-0

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Creating wooden boxes on the scroll saw / by the editors of Scroll saw woodworking & crafts.

   p. cm. -- (The best of Scroll saw woodworking & crafts magazine)

Includes index.

1. Woodwork. 2. Wooden boxes. 3. Jig saws. I. Scroll saw woodworking & crafts.

TT200.C84 2009

684’.08--dc22

2009019687

To learn more about the other great books from Fox Chapel Publishing, or to find a retailer near you, call toll-free 800-457-9112 or visit us at www.FoxChapelPublishing.com.

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

Because scrolling wood and other materials inherently includes the risk of injury and damage, this book cannot guarantee that creating the projects in this book is safe for everyone. For this reason, this book is sold without warranties or guarantees of any kind, expressed or implied, and the publisher and the authors disclaim any liability for any injuries, losses, or damages caused in any way by the content of this book or the reader’s use of the tools needed to complete the projects presented here. The publisher and the authors urge all scrollers to thoroughly review each project and to understand the use of all tools before beginning any project.

Table of Contents

What You Can Make

Introduction

Fretwork Boxes

Swan Lake Keepsake Box

Potpourri Box

Gentleman’s Box

Renaissance Keepsake Box

Victorian Fretwork Music Box

Good Luck Box

Walnut and Brass Keepsake Box

Holiday Card Holder

Segmentation and Intarsia Boxes

Petal-Perfect Rose Box

Eagle Keepsake Box

Fantasy Keepsake Boxes

Hanging Backpack Box

Dragon Chest

Layered Boxes

Texas Hold-’Em Caddie

Nesting Basket Trio

Maple Leaf Jewelry Box

Four-in-One Boxes

Patriotic Flag Box

One-of-a-Kind Boxes

Sliding Panel Puzzle Box

Secret Chamber Puzzle Box

Slope-Sided Box

Mirrored Flower Box with Copper and Patina

Magazine Storage Case

Ribbons and Bows Box

Contributors

What You Can Make

Functional Boxes

Potpourri Box

Holiday Card Holder

Texas Hold-’Em Caddie

Nesting Basket Trio

Maple Leaf Jewelry Box

Patriotic Flag Box

Mirrored Flower Box with Copper and Patina

Magazine Storage Case

Fantasy Boxes

Swan Lake Keepsake Box

Fantasy Keepsake Boxes

Fantasy Keepsake Boxes

Dragon Chest

Keepsake and Jewelry Boxes

Walnut and Brass Keepsake Box

Petal-Perfect Rose Box

Eagle Keepsake Box

Hanging Backpack Box

Four-in-One Boxes

Slope-Sided Box

Ribbons and Bows Box

Antique-Inspired Boxes

Gentleman’s Box

Renaissance Keepsake Box

Victorian Fretwork Music Box

Good Luck Box

Puzzle Boxes

Sliding Panel Puzzle Box

Secret Chamber Puzzle Box

Introduction

Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts magazine presents a collection of the best box patterns for scroll sawers. On the following pages, you’ll find patterns, tips, techniques, and stories from many of our contributors, hopefully along with inspiration to try the boxes shown in the book and your own variations and new creations.

The boxes contained here are broken down into categories—Fretwork Boxes, Segmentation and Intarsia Boxes, Layered Boxes, and One-of-a-Kind Boxes—to help you find just what you’re looking for.

Hanging Backpack Box, by Sue Chrestensen

Scroll Sawing Basics

If you’re new to scrolling, read through the following information before you actually begin at your saw.

Safety. Though the scroll saw is a relatively safe tool, take the time to make sure you’re working safely. Check that your work area is clean, well lit, well ventilated, and uncluttered. A dust collector, mask, air cleaner, or a combination of these items can help protect your lungs from fine dust. Wear some type of safety goggles just in case a piece of wood should break free and fly toward your face and eyes. Remove any loose clothing or jewelry before you operate the saw. Don’t work while you are tired, and, of course, keep your hands and fingers a safe distance away from the blade.

Tools. Gather your tools before you begin so everything is close at hand. The projects here list the general tools you’ll need and often give other suggestions and options. Remember, the lists are simply guidelines and you should always work with tools you feel comfortable using.

Squaring the blade. Before you begin any cutting, always check that your blade is square, or 90° to the scroll saw table. This will ensure your cuts are accurate. You can use any type of square to check the angle of the blade to the table. If you don’t have a square, try the kerf-test method using a piece of scrap wood. First, make a small cut, about 1/16" long, in a piece of scrap wood about 13/4" thick. Stop the saw. Then, turn the scrap wood around until the cut is facing the back of the blade. Slide the wood across the table so that the blade fits into the cut. If the blade slips easily into the cut, it is square. If the blade does not slip easily into the cut, adjust the table and perform the test again until the blade slips in easily and is square.

Stack cutting. This technique of simply adhering together and cutting more than one piece of wood at the same time can save you time and effort. It can also ensure a better fit for identical pieces. Pieces of wood can be held together with double-sided tape, painter’s or masking tape around the edges, or nails tacked into the waste areas of the wood. If you use nails, be careful that the ends of the nails do not poke through too much and scratch your saw table. If they do poke through, you can use a hammer or sandpaper to make them flush with the bottom of the stack.

Familiarize yourself with the project. It’s always a good idea to read through the instructions before you begin to make sure that you understand everything that’s involved.

Tools and Supplies

Scroll saw and blades of choice.

Clamps.

Sandpaper.

Wood.

Drill and bits.

Finish of choice.

Fretwork Boxes

For a printable PDF of the patterns used in this book, please contact Fox Chapel Publishing at [email protected].

Fretwork projects, boxes included, are often characterized by their large amounts of inside cuts and their sometimes delicate and difficult look. These boxes range from simple to more challenging, and they can be both functional and decorative.

Gentleman’s Box, by John A. Nelson

Swan Lake Keepsake Box

Elegance and grace are always in style

By Diana Thompson

TIPCLAMPING HINT

Clamping spare blocks to the work piece helps hold it steady and level while cutting. Attach the clamps only tight enough to hold the work and not so tight that the blade cannot move through the kerf.

I often find creative inspiration in common items we see every day but take for granted. I was doodling with a drawing program on my computer when I realized I could make boxes in a variety of styles and sizes. Boxes are fun to make. They are also great gifts with that handmade, personal touch.

Carefully consider the type of wood you want to use. New scrollers may want to try basswood, white pine, sugar pine, or any kind of cedar. Remember, the softer the wood, the easier it is to cut. I made the box you see in the photo from genuine mahogany.

1Photocopy the patterns. To make the box, begin by spraying the pattern for the box sides with temporary bond spray adhesive. Attach it to the ¾" to 11/4" stock. Use a drill with a 1/16"-diameter bit to make blade entry holes in each opening. A larger bit, such as one with a 3/32" diameter, can also be used.

2Cut the inside line. Thread the #7 blade through the entry holes and begin cutting. Cut only the inside line, leaving the outside line to be cut later. Do not remove the pattern.

3Sand the underside smooth. Use 220-grit sandpaper.

4Apply wood glue to the underside.

5Glue the box sides to a piece of ¼" stock, leaving a small margin around the edge. Approximately six clamps are needed. Only two are shown here for clarity. Allow the glue to dry at least an hour.

6Cut around the outside line of the box sides. Use the #7 blade. You are now cutting through both thicknesses.

7With a ⅛"-diameter router bit, round over the bottom edge of the box. I used a rotary tool fitted into a router table attachment. This step can also be done by hand with sandpaper.

8Cut the lid. Cut two pieces of ¼" x 7" x 61/2" stock. Adhere the lid and lid underside pattern. If you use plywood, be sure both lid patterns are adhered to the good sides so the unfinished sides of the plywood will be glued together, leaving the good side showing. Drill blade entry holes in all frets of the lid’s upperside and underside with a 1/16"-diameter bit. Thread a #5 reverse-tooth blade through the hole and cut out only the inner line, as was done in Step 2.

9Lid and lid underside are cut and ready to glue together.

10Glue the two lid sections together with the pattern sides facing out. Clamp the two sections into place as in Step 5 and allow them to dry for at least an hour. About six clamps are needed. Only two are shown for clarity.

11When the glue is dry, cut around the centerline of the lid underside as in Step 6. You’re cutting through both thicknesses.

12Round over the upper and lower edges of the lid as in Step 7.

13Prepare the work piece. Cut out the handle pattern with scissors and fold it along the dashed line. Apply temporary bond spray adhesive to the back of the pattern and wrap it around two sides of the ¾" x 1" x 2" wood. Drill a blade entry hole in the left side using a 1/16"-diameter bit.

14Cut the handle. Thread the #5 blade through the entry hole. Cut the inside fret first, leaving it in place. Then cut the outside lines.

15Tape the block. Allowing the figure to rest naturally in the block, gently pinch the sides together and tape around it with ¾" cellophane tape.

16Tap the block on the saw table to ensure the figure is flush inside the block.

17Cut the left side.

18Gently remove the figure from the block.

19Finish the box. Apply a wood sealer to all pieces. I prefer a water-based sealer due to the easy cleanup. However, it will raise the grain a bit, so after the sealer is dry, sand the box smooth with 220-grit sandpaper and finish with #00000 steel wool. Glue the handle to the box lid. Apply several coats of clear finish. I use Krylon spray because it doesn’t discolor over time.

Materials & Tools

Materials:

• 1 piece, ¾"–11/4" x 6½" x 6" wood of choice (box sides)

• 3 pieces, ¼" x 6½" x 7" wood of choice (box bottom and lid sections)

• 1 piece, ¾" x 1" x 2" wood of choice (handle)

• Temporary bond spray adhesive

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper, 220 grit

• #00000 steel wool

• Wood sealer

• Clear finish of choice

Tools:

• #5 blade, #5 reverse-tooth blade, and #7 blade

• Drill with 1/16"- and 3/32"- diameter bits

• Rotary tool and ⅛"-diameter round-over bit (optional)

• 6 clamps Materials & Tools Photocopy at 100%

Potpourri Box

This attractive potpourri box quickly converts to a tea light candleholder.

By Sue Mey

Scroll this box to hold aromatic potpourri or watch a candle flame dance through the scrolled-out images. Never use the lid or leave unattended when burning a candle in the holder.

Nothing makes a place smell more like home than potpourri, but it tends to get everywhere—especially if you have furry friends. To keep the dried flowers and herbs where they belong, use a potpourri box.

This potpourri box with lid was inspired by celestial bodies. I stack cut the pattern and made one in hardwood and another in medium density fiberboard (MDF), which I painted. The item can also be used as an attractive tea light or flat candleholder without the lid. Do not place the holder in a draft, which could bring the flame into contact with the wood. Constant supervision is advised.

Step 1: Sand all hardwood pieces. Use a palm sander with 320 grit to sand both sides. This reduces the hand sanding after cutting. MDF does not require pre-sanding.

Step 2: Attach the patterns to the wood. Photocopy the pattern pieces at 100% and attach them to the wood using temporary bond spray adhesive. Or, for simple patterns such as these, I like to transfer the pattern to the work piece with carbon paper and a stylus. Keep the pattern in place with two small pieces of masking tape.

Step 3: Tape two or more blanks together to stack cut the box. To create multiple boxes at once, attach extra layers of wood or MDF to the piece with the pattern on it. Use small strips of thin double-sided tape at the corners to hold the layers together. Note: The lid liner can not be stack cut because it will be attached to the lid before the pierce cuts are made. They can, however, be stacked for the disc sander process (see Step 8), before you attach a separate pattern to each lid liner.

Step 4: Drill the blade entry holes. Use the 3/32"-diameter bit for the box sides and the 1/16"-diameter bit for the features of the sun pattern. Note: Do not drill the lid liner blade entry holes at this time.

Step 5: Remove the burrs created by drilling the holes. Use a scraper blade at a slight angle along the grain of the wood.

TIPA BIT OF GOLD

If you decide to make the painted MDF box, splatter a little bit of gold paint on the box to add texture. Working fast, spray some gold paint onto paper, dip an old toothbrush into the paint, and run a plastic ruler over the brush. Vary the direction of the spray onto the box to avoid uniform splashes. Or, if you don’t mind getting paint on your fingers, dip your middle finger in the paint and flick the paint randomly on the box.

Step 6: Make the inside cuts on the four box sides. Thread the #5 blade through the blade entry holes and make the inside cuts of the box sides—you can stack cut two layers at the same time. Use a #3 blade for the sun’s features. Note: Do not cut the lid liner at this time.

Step 7:Cut the scalloped edge of the lid and base. To do this neatly, cut into the sharp point from the edge. Back out of the cut, and then cut into the sharp point from the other direction.

Step 8: Square the edges of the sides and lid liner on the disc sander. For this project, edges should line up nicely, and I find using the disc sander much easier than attempting to cut perfectly straight edges with the scroll saw.

Step 9: Separate the wood layers. Insert a scraper blade between the work pieces to pull them apart. Remove the sticky tape residue with a rag and some mineral spirits. Allow them to dry.

Step 10: Apply wood glue to the back surface of the lid liner.