Cucina Siciliana E-Book

Ursula Ferrigno

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2019

Beschreibung

Discover the unique fusion of flavours that Sicilian food has to offer and bring some Mediterranean sunshine into your own kitchen. Sicily is a beguiling place and its prominent position has led to repeated conquests over the centuries, which has left an extraordinary cultural legacy and a reputation as the melting pot of the Mediterranean. The island's unique food is bright, earthy and suffused with the intensity of the Sicilian sun. Juicy tomatoes, the island's own fragrant olive oil, wild fennel and citrus fruits are all staple ingredients. Here you'll discover authentic recipes for the best food Sicily has to offer including antipasti, vibrant salads, light soups and pasta dishes. Delicious meat and fish recipes feature Sarde a Beccaficco (stuffed sardines), and Abbacchio alla Cacciatovia (pan-fried Spring lamb with herb and anchovy sauce). Sicilians notoriously have a sweet tooth and are among the best dessert-makers in Italy. Indulge in Pistachio Gelato, Cannoli (pastry tubes filled with sweetened ricotta) and possibly Sicily's most famous export, Cassata.

Leseprobe

CUCINA SICILIANA

CUCINA SICILIANA

FRESH AND VIBRANT RECIPES FROM A UNIQUE MEDITERRANEAN ISLAND

Ursula Ferrigno

WITH PHOTOGRAPHY BY David Munns

Dedication

To Daddy, for showing me Sicily many years ago in a unique manner – a huge lunch conducted in a vineyard, with a grumpy driver and a flat tyre.

Senior Designer Toni Kay

Commissioning Editor Nathan Joyce

Picture Manager Christina Borsi

Head of Production Patricia Harrington

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Publisher Cindy Richards

Food Stylist Emily Kydd

Prop Stylist Victoria Allen

Indexer Vanessa Bird

First published in 2016

This edition published in 2019

by Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 East 116th Street

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

Text © Ursula Ferrigno 2016, 2019

Design and photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2016, 2019

eISBN: 978-1-78879-249-3

ISBN: 978-1-78879-117-5

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

Printed and bound in China.

CIP data from the Library of Congress has been applied for. A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

Notes

• Both British (metric) and American (imperial plus US cups) are included in these recipes; however, it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• All eggs are medium (UK) or large (US), unless specified as large, in which case US extra large should be used. Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

Contents

Introduction

Appetizers Antipasti

Feature: Facciamoci un aperitivo!

Salads & Stuffed Vegetables Insalate

Feature: The Sicilian citrus groves

Soups & Pasta Zuppa e pasta

Feature: The wines of Sicily

Meat & Fish Carne e pesce

Feature: The fish of Sicily

Breads Pane

Feature: The breads of Sicily

Desserts Dolci e pasticceria

Feature: Gelateria

Index

Acknowledgements

Introduction

Sicily is an intriguing, beguiling place. Its prominent position in the Mediterranean has crowned it with an ancient and lasting importance and led to repeated conquests over the centuries, giving it an extraordinary cultural legacy. It has one of the world’s best cuisines thanks to the complex influences and fusion of flavours left behind by the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spanish who have each occupied this fertile land.

My first visit to Sicily was an eye opener. I accompanied my father – who ran a fruit and vegetable business – on a business trip, taking the ferry from mainland Italy. And my first taste of Sicilian food was in the ferry cafeteria – arancini were heaped into tiny mounds, the shape of Mount Etna. They were, like the people I was soon to meet, warm, generous, unexpected and comforting. These rice morsels, probably stemming originally from Arabia, were stuffed with hidden ingredients. There were five varieties, which seemed to reflect a brief history of Sicilian invaders with every bite. The rice had been stuffed with bolognese, cheese, meat, tomatoes, spices and rolled into a hand-held snack. Moreish and totally delicious, they were a beautiful statement of what was to come.

As we approached the shores, the snow-capped Mount Etna commanded attention and respect, with smoke billowing against the bluest of blue skies. It’s no surprise that the volcanic soil is special; intensely rich and fertile, and combined with the brilliant sunshine, the land produces ingredients that are so wonderful they speak for themselves.

The island’s unique food is bright, earthy and suffused with the intensity of the Sicilian sun. Not surprisingly, many of the typical dishes are made with fish and seafood. Cream and butter are rarely used and instead, juicy tomatoes or the island’s own fragrant olive oil are substituted. Sheep’s milk ricotta is another staple ingredient, as are black and green olives, wild fennel (which grows all over the hills) and the cultivated citrus fruits that are used in almost everything, from salads to desserts.

In the chapters that follow, you’ll discover authentic recipes for the best food Sicily has to offer, starting with antipasti. Choose from Arancini di Riso (risotto croquettes) or Gustoso Olive Nero (olive relish). Vibrant salads such as Insalata di Orangio di Torocci (blood orange and red onion salad) are perfect for summer eating, as are the light soups and pasta dishes including Fogie di Zucchine con Pomodoro Fresche e Pastina (courgette/zucchini leaf and fresh tomato soup) or Pasta Picchi Pacchi (spaghetti with tomato and almond sauce). Delicious meat and fish recipes include Sardine a Beccafico (stuffed sardines) and Abbacchio alla Cacciatovia (pan-fried spring lamb with herbs and anchovy sauce). There are traditional breads, such as Pane Rimacinati (semolina mountain bread). Sicilians notoriously have a sweet tooth and are among the best dessert-makers in Italy. Indulge in Gelato al Pistachio (pistachio ice cream), Cannoli (pastry tubes filled with sweetened ricotta) and possibly Sicily’s most famous export, Cassata.

Appetizers

Antipasti

Fried chickpeas with herbs

Ceci fritti con salvia e origano

This very simple treatment of chickpeas – which are abundant in Sicily – has its roots firmly anchored in North Africa. It’s a popular street food, often eaten as a ‘merenda’ or afternoon snack, and also commonly served at ‘Sagre’ – festivals to celebrate the season of a particular ingredient. It’s a welcome change from peanuts and crisps as an aperitivo, but also works in a salad.

200 g/1 cup plus 2 tablespoons dried chickpeas, soaked in water overnight with 2 bay leaves, 2 garlic cloves and a handful of parsley

olive oil or groundnut oil, for frying

a handful of rosemary needles

a handful of sage leaves, finely chopped

a handful of oregano leaves, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons fennel seeds

crushed sea salt, for sprinkling

finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon

Serves 8

Drain the chickpeas and discard the soaking water, but keep the garlic and bay leaves.

Add the chickpeas, garlic and bay leaves to a saucepan filled with cold water. Bring to the boil and boil rapidly for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat and continue cooking for 20 minutes until the chickpeas are tender. Strain and place on a dry, clean dish towel and pat to remove excess moisture.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan/skillet set over medium heat and add a quarter of the chickpeas. Shallow-fry for 5 minutes. Add a quarter of the herbs and a quarter of the fennel seeds and cook for 3 minutes until fragrant. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining ingredients in batches.

Transfer to a bowl and add sea salt to taste. Mix well and serve with the zest of the lemon.

Very tasty olive relish

Gustoso olive nero

I have been experimenting with this relish after my recent trip to Sicily and I think this recipe is as close to the version I enjoyed at Mandello beach. Serve on sourdough, or on one of the breads to be found on pages 112–125. Good bread is vital. Like great oil that breathes life into a dish, great bread elevates a dish to another level.

300 g/2½ cups very tasty black olives (e.g. Gaeta), stoned/pitted

a generous handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves

2 garlic cloves, peeled

leaves stripped from 7–8 lemon thyme sprigs

6 fennel seeds (optional)

finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon

about 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Makes about 250 g/1 cup

Combine all the ingredients together in a food processor and blend to a coarse texture.

Use immediately on toasted bread.

Fried vegetables with tomato sauce

Fritto misto con sugo di pomodoro

Fritto misto, or mixed fried food, is found mainly in Sicily. My grandmother, who comes from Minori on the Amalfi coast, cooks a version that includes Parmesan cheese in the batter, which is very good. Fritto misto consists of small morsels of vegetables in batter or breadcrumbs, which are deep fried and eaten straight away. Courgette/zucchini flowers may be included. The inclusion of chilli/chile and cloves in the tomato sauce illustrates the Arab influence on this dish.

olive oil, for deep frying

Italian ‘00’ flour, for dusting

1 kg/2¼ lbs. mixed vegetables, e.g. (bell) peppers, aubergine/eggplant, asparagus, courgettes/zucchini, cut into 5-cm/2-inch strips

TOMATO SAUCE

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 shallots, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

500 g/3 cups ripe tomatoes, chopped

3 teaspoons crushed dried chilli/chile (peperoncino)

2 cloves

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

tomato purée/paste, to taste (optional)

a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped (optional)

BATTER

300 ml/1¼ cups milk

1 yolk (from UK medium/US large egg)

½ teaspoon sea salt

125 g/1 scant cup Italian ‘00’ flour

½ teaspoon baking powder

Serves 4–6

To make the sauce, heat the oil in a medium-sized saucepan and cook the shallots for about 4 minutes over medium heat, until golden. Add the garlic and cook until soft. Add the tomato, chilli/chile, cloves and salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 20 minutes until thick and pulpy. Set aside, picking out the cloves (if you want to increase the colour to be a more vibrant red, add a little tomato purée/paste and continue cooking for 12 more minutes).

To make the batter, whisk together the milk, egg yolk and salt in a large bowl for about 3 minutes, or until smooth. Sift the flour into the bowl with the baking powder, and whisk together.

Heat 4 cm/1½ inches of olive oil in a deep frying pan/skillet. Spread a little flour on a plate. Dip the vegetable pieces one at a time into the flour and then in the batter to coat. Carefully drop into the oil in batches and cook for about 2 minutes, until golden. Drain well on paper towels.

Stir the parsley into the sauce, if using, and serve alongside the warm fritto misto.

Panelle

Panelle

This recipe is quite possibly the simplest in this book in terms of ingredients, but it truly fascinates me. For one, it has so many different names. In the south of France it is called socca; on the Ligurian coast of northern Italy, panisse, and in Tuscany, cecina or farinatta. All of them use chickpea/gram flour, but all with slightly different treatments. I find chickpea/gram flour extremely tasty and consider it a vital store cupboard ingredient. It can also be used to coat vegetables, meat and fish, and forms a crispy coating called panellina. During the research for this book, my daughter Antonia and I enjoyed a wonderful panelle in a restaurant called Buatta in Palermo. Traditionally it is served in a sesame-seed-coated bun with a squeeze of lemon. The friggitoria (fry shops) all over the city of Palermo sell this wonderful street food.

300 g/2¼ cups chickpea/gram flour

750 ml/3 cups water

1 teaspoon sea salt, plus extra to serve

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

a generous handful of flat-leaf parsley, freshly chopped

olive oil or groundnut oil, for deep frying

lemon wedges, to serve

Makes 8–12

Place the flour in the bottom of a medium-sized saucepan. Gradually add the water, stirring with a whisk the whole time until all the water has been used.

Place the saucepan over medium heat. Stir constantly. After 20 minutes, add the seasoning and parsley and continue to cook, stirring well, until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan, approximately 30 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and pour the mixture onto oiled baking sheets. Roll it flat with an oiled rolling pin and then leave to set for 45–60 minutes.

Cut the dough into 4 x 4-cm/1½ x 1½-inch pieces. Heat the oil in a frying pan/skillet.

Fry the dough pieces until golden, turning once. Serve immediately with a little extra sea salt on top and lemon wedges to the side.

Sicilian potato croquettes

Cazzilli o crocche di patate

The Sicilian dialect word ‘cazzilli’ (little penises) was jestingly given to these crispy croquettes on account of their shape. Friggitoria (fry shops) all over Palermo sell this super finger food in many different guises.

4 medium-sized (all the same size is preferable) old potatoes (i.e. King Edward, Desiree, Pentland Crown, Maris Piper, Rooster), cleaned

½ teaspoon nutmeg

75 g/5 tablespoons unsalted butter

a generous handful of flat-leaf parsley, freshly chopped

2 UK large/US extra large eggs, beaten

150 g/1¼ cups dried breadcrumbs

olive oil or groundnut oil, for deep frying

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Serves 4–6

Place the potatoes in a medium-sized saucepan of boiling water. Keep the potatoes cooking but not boiling (boiling will encourage the skins to burst). Cook for about 15 minutes, or until tender.

When the potatoes are tender, drain and leave to cool. Peel away the skins and press the potatoes through a ricer or food mill into a bowl. Don’t use a food processor as this will develop the starch too much.

Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, butter and parsley. Mix well and form into 10 x 7.5-cm/4 x 3-inch pieces. Roll into smaller rods (fork-friendly, size-wise).

Dip the rods into the beaten egg and then the breadcrumbs. Place on a parchment-lined tray and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Heat the oil and fry in batches until golden. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle over some more salt if desired. Serve hot.

Fried courgette flowers

Frittelle di fiori di zucca

Unfortunately, my nonna wasn’t keen to share her secret recipe for zucchini flower fritters. Whenever I ask her, she always shrugs her shoulders and says: ‘It’s luck!’ I really hope you will enjoy my version. Some fabulous vegetable shops will sell the flowers in the summer but the best come from your very own plot. Be sure to keep them fresh in iced water before you cook them as they deteriorate very quickly.

7 g/1¼ teaspoons fresh yeast (or 1 teaspoon dried/active dry yeast)

450 ml/1¾ cups warm water (37°C/99°F)

250 g/2 cups Italian ‘00’ flour, sifted

2 tablespoons olive oil

groundnut oil, for frying

24 large courgette/zucchini flowers

a handful of flat-leaf parsley, freshly chopped

lemon quarters, to serve

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Serves 4–6

Dissolve the fresh yeast in a little of the water and set aside for 10 minutes. If using dried yeast, mix with the flour.

Mix the flour, water, oil, yeast mixture and salt and pepper well, using a whisk to beat out any lumps. Cover and leave to become bubbly for 45–60 minutes. Stir the bubbles in the batter.

Heat 8 cm/3 inches of groundnut oil in a deep pan. Remove the stamens from the courgette/zucchini flowers. Dip the flowers one at a time into the batter and shake off the excess.

Place one at a time in the oil, frying 4 at a time until golden, turning once. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels, then sprinkle with parsley and salt. Serve straight away with lemon quarters.

Filled risotto croquettes

Arancini di riso

When you’re food shopping in Sicily, everywhere you turn you will see arancini. They come in a multitude of sizes and with a wide variety of fillings. At the beach they seem to be quite large to match one’s appetite. I have to confess that these cheese and ham ones with a splash of tomato sauce are my favourite, but even just herb and mozzarella is delicious. My family like theirs filled with meat sauce (ragù), but I recommend you experiment to find your own favourite.

250 g/1⅓ cups Arborio rice

a generous pinch of saffron strands

100 g/1⅓ cups freshly grated Pecorino cheese

100 g/3½ oz. young Pecorino cheese, cut into cubes

100 g/3½ oz. cooked ham, cut into cubes

100 g/3½ oz. passata/strained tomatoes, mixed with 2 crushed garlic cloves

a handful of flat-leaf parsley, freshly chopped

3 tablespoons Italian ‘00’ flour

2 UK large/US extra large eggs, lightly beaten

150 g/1¼ cups dried breadcrumbs

olive oil or groundnut oil, for frying

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Makes 8–12

Cook the rice in salted water for approximately 10 minutes. Add the saffron and continue to cook for 8 more minutes until sticky. Drain and place the rice onto baking parchment-lined baking sheets, spreading the rice out to a thickness of 1 cm/½ inch.

Place a 6-cm/2½-inch round cutter or a tumbler over the surface of the rice to create individual portions of rice. Allow the rice to cool.

Place the grated cheese, cubed cheese, ham, 1 teaspoon of the passata/strained tomatoes and some parsley on each of the rice rounds. Season well.

Using a palette knife, lift the rounds off the baking sheets and form them into balls, carefully sealing in the filling. I place the round in the palm of my hand like a nest and squeeze gently to seal.

Dip the rounds in the flour, egg and breadcrumbs and deep fry until golden in plenty of oil. Lift out of the oil and drain on paper towels. Arancini are best served warm.