FROM LONDON TO LAND’S END
Sir,
I find so much left to speak of,
and so many things to say in every part of England, that my journey
cannot be barren of intelligence which way soever I turn; no,
though I were to oblige myself to say nothing of anything that had
been spoken of before.
I intended once to have gone due
west this journey; but then I should have been obliged to crowd my
observations so close (to bring Hampton Court, Windsor, Blenheim,
Oxford, the Bath and Bristol all into one letter; all those
remarkable places lying in a line, as it were, in one point of the
compass) as to have made my letter too long, or my observations too
light and superficial, as others have done before me.
This letter will divide the
weighty task, and consequently make it sit lighter on the memory,
be pleasanter to the reader, and make my progress the more regular:
I shall therefore take in Hampton Court and Windsor in this
journey; the first at my setting out, and the last at my return,
and the rest as their situation demands.
As I came down from Kingston, in
my last circuit, by the south bank of the Thames, on the Surrey
side of the river; so I go up to Hampton Court now on the north
bank, and on the Middlesex side, which I mention, because, as the
sides of the country bordering on the river lie parallel, so the
beauty of the country, the pleasant situations, the glory of
innumerable fine buildings (noblemen’s and gentlemen’s houses, and
citizens’ retreats), are so equal a match to what I had described
on the other side that one knows not which to give the preference
to: but as I must speak of them again, when I
come to write of the county of
Middlesex, which I have now purposely omitted; so I pass them over
here, except the palace of Hampton only, which I mentioned in
“Middlesex,” for the reasons above.
Hampton Court lies on the north
bank of the River Thames, about two small miles from Kingston, and
on the road from Staines to Kingston Bridge; so that the road
straightening the parks a little, they were obliged to part the
parks, and leave the Paddock and the
great park part on the other side
the road—a testimony of that just regard that the kings of England
always had, and still have, to the common good, and to the service
of the country, that they would not interrupt the course of the
road, or cause the poor people to go out of the way of their
business to or from the markets and fairs, for any pleasure of
their own whatsoever.
The palace of Hampton Court was
first founded and built from the ground by that great statesman and
favourite of King Henry VIII, Cardinal Wolsey; and if it be a just
observation anywhere, as is made from the situation of the old
abbeys and monasteries, the clergy were excellent judges of the
beauty and pleasantness of the country, and chose always to plant
in the best; I say, if it was a just observation in any case, it
was in this; for if there be a situation on the whole river between
Staines Bridge and Windsor Bridge pleasanter than another, it is
this of Hampton; close to the river, yet not offended by the rising
of its waters in floods or storms; near to the reflux of the tides,
but not quite so near as to be affected with any foulness of the
water which the flowing of the tides generally is the occasion of.
The gardens extend almost to the bank of the river, yet are never
overflowed; nor are there any marshes on either side the river to
make the waters stagnate, or the air unwholesome on that account.
The river is high enough to be navigable, and low enough to be a
little pleasantly rapid; so that the stream looks always cheerful,
not slow and sleeping, like a pond. This keeps the waters always
clear and clean, the bottom in view, the fish playing and in sight;
and, in a word, it has everything that can make an inland (or, as I
may call it, a country) river pleasant and agreeable.
I shall sing you no songs here of
the river in the first person of a water-nymph, a goddess, and I
know not what, according to the humour of the ancient poets; I
shall talk nothing of the marriage of old Isis, the male river,
with the beautiful Thame, the female river (a whimsey as simple as
the subject was empty); but I shall speak of the river as occasion
presents, as it really is made glorious by the splendour of its
shores, gilded with noble palaces, strong fortifications, large
hospitals, and public buildings; with the greatest bridge, and the
greatest city in the world, made famous by the opulence of its
merchants, the increase and extensiveness of its
commerce; by its invincible
navies, and by the innumerable fleets of ships sailing upon it to
and from all parts of the world.
As I meet with the river upwards
in my travels through the inland country I shall speak of it, as it
is the channel for conveying an infinite quantity of provisions
from remote counties to London, and enriching all the counties
again that lie near it by the return of wealth and trade from the
city; and in describing these things I expect both to inform and
divert my readers, and speak in a more masculine manner, more to
the dignity of the subject, and also more to their satisfaction,
than I could do any other way.
There is little more to be said
of the Thames relating to Hampton Court, than that it adds by its
neighbourhood to the pleasure of the situation; for as to passing
by water to and from London, though in summer it is exceeding
pleasant, yet the passage is a little too long to make it easy to
the ladies, especially to be crowded up in the small boats which
usually go upon the Thames for pleasure.
The prince and princess, indeed,
I remember came once down by water upon the occasion of her Royal
Highness’s being great with child, and near her time—so near that
she was delivered within two or three days after. But this passage
being in the royal barges, with strength of oars, and the day
exceeding fine, the passage, I say, was made very pleasant, and
still the more so for being short. Again, this passage is all the
way with the stream, whereas in the common passage upwards great
part of the way is against the stream, which is slow and
heavy.
But be the going and coming how
it will by water, it is an exceeding pleasant passage by land,
whether we go by the Surrey side or the Middlesex side of the
water, of which I shall say more in its place.
The situation of Hampton Court
being thus mentioned, and its founder, it is to be mentioned next
that it fell to the Crown in the forfeiture of his Eminence the
Cardinal, when the king seized his effects and estate, by which
this and Whitehall (another house of his own building also) came to
King Henry VIII. Two palaces fit for the kings of England, erected
by one cardinal, are standing monuments of the excessive pride as
well as the immense wealth of that prelate,
who knew no bounds of his
insolence and ambition till he was overthrown at once by the
displeasure of his master.
Whoever knew Hampton Court before
it was begun to be rebuilt, or altered, by the late King William,
must acknowledge it was a very complete palace before, and fit for
a king; and though it might not, according to the modern method of
building or of gardening, pass for a thing exquisitely fine, yet it
had this remaining to itself, and perhaps peculiar—namely, that it
showed a situation exceedingly capable of improvement, and of being
made one of the most delightful palaces in Europe.
This her Majesty Queen Mary was
so sensible of, that, while the king had ordered the pulling down
the old apartments, and building it up in that most beautiful form
which we see them now appear in, her Majesty, impatient of enjoying
so agreeable a retreat, fixed upon a building formerly made use of
chiefly for landing from the river, and therefore called the Water
Galley, and here, as if she had been conscious that she had but a
few years to enjoy it, she ordered all the little neat curious
things to be done which suited her own conveniences, and made it
the pleasantest little thing within doors that could possibly be
made, though its situation being such as it could not be allowed to
stand after the great building was finished, we now see no remains
of it.
The queen had here her gallery of
beauties, being the pictures at full-length of the principal ladies
attending upon her Majesty, or who were frequently in her retinue;
and this was the more beautiful sight because the originals were
all in being, and often to be compared with their pictures. Her
Majesty had here a fine apartment, with a set of lodgings for her
private retreat only, but most exquisitely furnished, particularly
a fine chintz bed, then a great curiosity; another of her own work
while in Holland, very magnificent, and several others; and here
was also her Majesty’s fine collection of Delft ware, which indeed
was very large and fine; and here was also a vast stock of fine
china ware, the like whereof was not then to be seen in England;
the long gallery, as above, was filled with this china, and every
other place where it could be placed with advantage.
The queen had here also a small
bathing-room, made very fine, suited either to hot or cold bathing,
as the season should invite; also a dairy, with all its
conveniences, in which her Majesty took great delight. All these
things were finished with expedition, that here their Majesties
might repose while they saw the main building go forward. While
this was doing, the gardens were laid out, the plan of them devised
by the king himself, and especially the amendments and alterations
were made by the king or the queen’s particular special command, or
by both, for their Majesties agreed so well in their fancy, and had
both so good judgment in the just proportions of things, which are
the principal beauties of a garden, that it may be said they both
ordered everything that was done.
Here the fine parcel of limes
which form the semicircle on the south front of the house by the
iron gates, looking into the park, were by the dexterous hand of
the head gardener removed, after some of them had been almost
thirty years planted in other places, though not far off. I know
the King of France in the decoration of the gardens of Versailles
had oaks removed, which by their dimensions must have been above an
hundred years old, and yet were taken up with so much art, and by
the strength of such engines, by which such a monstrous quantity of
earth was raised with them, that the trees could not feel their
remove—that is to say, their growth was not at all hindered. This,
I confess, makes the wonder much the less in those trees at Hampton
Court gardens; but the performance was not the less difficult or
nice, however, in these, and they thrive perfectly well.
While the gardens were thus laid
out, the king also directed the laying the pipes for the fountains
and jet-d’eaux, and particularly the dimensions of them, and what
quantity of water they should cast up, and increased the number of
them after the first design.
The ground on the side of the
other front has received some alterations since the taking down the
Water Galley; but not that part immediately next the lodgings. The
orange-trees and fine Dutch bays are placed within the arches of
the building under the first floor; so that the lower part of the
house was all one as a greenhouse for sometime. Here stand
advanced, on two pedestals of stone, two marble vases or
flower-pots of most exquisite workmanship—the
one done by an Englishman, and
the other by a German. It is hard to say which is the best
performance, though the doing of it was a kind of trial of skill
between them; but it gives us room, without any partiality, to say
they were both masters of their art.
The parterre on that side
descends from the terrace-walk by steps, and on the left a terrace
goes down to the water-side, from which the garden on the eastward
front is overlooked, and gives a most pleasant prospect.
The fine scrolls and bordure of
these gardens were at first edged with box, but on the queen’s
disliking the smell those edgings were taken up, but have since
been planted again—at least, in many places— nothing making so fair
and regular an edging as box, or is so soon brought to its
perfection.