Gelato E-Book

Adriano di Petrillo

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2014

Beschreibung

Gelato is not simply the Italian word for ice cream. 'A good gelato should be rich in flavour but you shouldn't feel full even after you've eaten a pint of it. Trust me!' So says Adriano di Petrillo, owner of Dri Dri, the fashionable London-based gelateria. Authentic Italian gelato is made with milk rather than cream, so it's much lighter and significantly lower in fat. Gelato is made by a process called 'mantecazione', where it is frozen and churned very slowly so it doesn't absorb too much air. This achieves a creamy texture without the fat. Gelato is surprisingly easy to make at home with a domestic ice cream maker. Try Adriano's simple recipes for Vanilla, Coffee, Bitter Chocolate, Cookies and Cream, and TiramisA'. Also included are recipes for fresh and fruity sorbets and granitas, including Green Apple and Mixed Berries. Suggestions for delicious ways to serve your creations include Bitter Chocolate Gelato with Cherry Compote; Lemon Gelato with Brioche; and Almond Gelato drowned with hot espresso. Ideas for gelato-based drinks include Italian classics such as a Rossini (strawberry sorbet with Prosecco) and Sgroppino (lemon gelato blended with vodka or Prosecco). Adriano di Petrillo was born in Parma, Italy, and before launching Dri Dri in July 2010, he lived in New York and managed Art Partner, a leading talent agency for fashion photography and styling. He could never find a good gelato outside of Italy, so he opened his two London Dri Dri stores in the fashionable districts of Portobello Road and Chelsea.

Leseprobe

Design, Photography and Prop Styling

Steve Painter

Editor Rebecca Woods

Production Gary Hayes

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Food Stylist Lucy Mckelvie

Indexer Hilary Bird

First published in 2012 by

Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

519 Broadway, 5th Floor

New York, NY 10012

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © AdiP Gelato Ltd 2012

Design and photographs

© Ryland Peters & Small 2012

Printed in China

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

UK eISBN: 978 1 84975 593 1

UK ISBN: 978 1 84975 208 4

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

US Library of Congress cataloging-in-publication data has been applied for.

Notes

• All spoon measurements are level, unless otherwise specified.

• Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very young, the very old, those with compromised immune systems, or to pregnant women.

• When a recipe calls for the grated or pared peel of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water and rinse before using.

• The method for all recipes are given using a home gelato maker.

• All weights given for fruit are prepared weight.

• The gelato, sorbetto and granita shown in the photographs in this book were all made using two different models of domestic ice cream maker – the Gaggia Gelateria Ice Cream Maker and the Cuisinart Professional Ice Cream Maker. For best results we strongly recommend that you use an electric ice cream maker. However, if a machine is not available, you can still try the following by-hand method, although the resulting product will not be as light in texture. Simply pour your prepared gelato, sorbetto or granita mixture into a lidded freezer-proof box and place in the freezer. Remove the box every hour or so, transfer the contents to a large mixing bowl and whisk with an electric hand mixer to break up any larger ice crystals. Return the mixture to the box and then to the freezer. Repeat this process every hour until the gelato, sorbetto or granita is frozen.

contents

Introduction

Gelato

Sorbetto

Granita

Serving gelato

Index

Dri Dri local Italian gelato

In Italy, gelato is a fundamental part of our diet from a very early age. When I was young, I was particularly keen on gelato and particularly lucky to live across the street from the best gelateria in Parma, my home town.

Everyday after school I would stop at the gelateria and have my cone with crema gelato and lemon sorbet (definitely a very strange combination, but I loved it), while my mother was buying a large tub to take home and serve for dessert. The problem was that most of the time I managed to sneak into the kitchen and finish the whole tub by myself before dinner had even started!

The owner of the gelateria was Daniele, a gentleman with an incredible passion for this magical product and top notch recipes. One afternoon he showed me how the gelato was being made and let me assist him in preparing a lemon sorbet. I remember running back home with a tub of the gelato I had made myself, feeling very proud and accomplished at the age of five.

My life went on and I began to travel a lot for study and work, living in Milan, Boston, New York and finally settling in London. Throughout, one constant in my life was my passion for gelato, but unfortunately I was never able to find a gelateria that could match the unbelievable gelato of my friend Daniele.

During those years, I realized that gelato holds a special place in people’s hearts. Anyone who has been to Italy will tell you that gelato is one of the key memories of their vacation. There is something very romantic and sentimental about gelato and people relate to it in a special way. I recognized the opportunity I had to bring the gelato experience I had as a child to the rest of the world. I went back to Parma and told Daniele I wanted to introduce his gelato around the world, starting in London. That is the moment when Dri Dri was born.

I worked for months to develop recipes that would combine the artisanal Italian tradition with a modern cosmopolitan product that is entirely natural. I travelled extensively to source specific ingredients that would make Dri Dri gelato even more special and worked with Daniele to simplify his recipes and eliminate all kinds of additives that are typically used in gelato making. The result is an amazingly tasty and creamy product that is very pure and light, low in fat and easy to digest.

We have a very strict philosophy at Dri Dri: our gelato must be made with the best ingredients that we select from all over the world: we use Gran Cru chocolate from So Tom to make the Extra Dark Chocolate Sorbet, our pistachios are imported from Sicily and we use only Tonda Gentile hazelnuts from Piedmont. High quality ingredients mean there is no need for artificial flavourings, colourings, emulsifiers, preservatives or non-natural thickeners. Because we do not use any additives we have to keep the gelato in closed containers (called pozzetti) that allow a very strict temperature control. Be mindful: every time you enter a gelateria where you can see the gelato, it means they are using additives, otherwise it would melt.

We opened our first store in 2010 on the iconic Portobello Road in London, where people from all over the world pass by. We decorated the interior in natural materials such as marble and wood to show our commitment to using natural ingredients in the gelato and created a bold logo which was simple, colourful and friendly. The second store opened in Chelsea Farmers Market in 2011, and is quickly becoming a destination for all west Londoners, especially when the sun is shining! We will open other stores as the word about Dri Dri spreads.

Enjoying gelato, sorbetto and granita at home

I am pleased to see the rise in popularity of gelato and sorbetto outside of Italy. For me it is such an integral part of my childhood and this is one of the reasons we now teach children how to make gelato in our stores. Every day we run classes for children where they can draw their own labels, watch the gelato being churned and scoop it into cones. But not everyone is within walking distance of a Dri Dri and so this book is aimed at teaching you the secrets of Dri Dri so you can make delicious gelato at home.

All you need to make delcious fresh gelato, sorbetto and granita at home is a gelato or ice-cream maker. The key to the creamy texture of gelato is the combined action of churning as it freezes using a method called ‘mantecazione’. The continued stirring of the liquid means that air isn’t absorbed and the gelato is silky smooth. The best results come from gelato or ice-cream machines that have a built-in compressor – the machines that have a canister which you pre-freeze do not result in as light a product, so if you are serious about your gelato, it may be worth investing that little bit more for the perfect result.

Apart from the gelato maker, you don’t need any specialist equipment, although a food processor is very useful for pureing fruit for sorbets, especially tougher fruits, such as pineapple. Softer fruits, such as berries and mango, can be pured easily with a hand blender. For a smoother finish, you may also like to pass the pured fruit through a sieve/strainer before adding it to the gelato-maker to get rid of the seeds, but this is not essential.

Gelato starts with a dairy base, but unlike traditional ice cream, gelato is made using more milk than cream, which gives it a lighter texture. You should be able to eat a whole tub of gelato and never feel full! Flavourings are added to the base, along with a little egg white, which acts as a natural binder and also thickens the gelato. The quantities of the base ingredients may fluctuate depending on the added ingredients, so that each gelato is perfectly balanced in flavour and texture. As the taste of the gelato depends very much on the ingredients used, we always insist on using organic cream, milk and sugar and only ever free-range eggs.

Preparing sorbetto and granita is also very simple to do at home. They, too, start with a simple base, this time of syrup, to which flavourings are added – usually fresh fruits but other flavours, such as coffee, are also popular. Granita is different from sorbetto in two ways: firstly it is not as sweet as sorbet, containing much more water than syrup, and, secondly, it has a much coarser texture.

For the flavourings, we ship our ingredients in from around the world to ensure that we only serve the best, but as long as you look for the highest quality you can buy in the supermarket, you can’t go too far wrong. Perhaps the exception to this is fresh fruits, which are never better than when they are locally grown and picked at the peak of ripeness. Only ever use what is in season where you are as air-freighting fruit over long distances stops natural ripening and impairs flavour. Around the festive season, when fruit is less abundant, richer flavours of gelato such as Chocolate, Tiramis, Bacio and Salted Caramel are a perfect indulgence, while in summer you can take your pick of gelato or sorbetto and granita prepared with ripe summer berries and zingy citrus fruits.

Gelato and sorbetto is always best served fresh out of the machine as it is at the perfect texture and the fresh ingredients still have all their flavour. As preservatives aren’t used, natural flavourings do begin to lose their intensity, and although they will keep in a domestic freezer for a few days, the quality is never as good as when freshly made. And with most gelato machines able to whip up a batch in about 25 minutes, there is no excuse for not preparing it freshly every time.

As well as recipes for gelato, sorbetto and granita, the last chapter suggests other ways you can enjoy them, such as sweet treats to pair them with and twists for refreshing sorbetto and gelato-based drinks. To finish we have added a chart of some of the most popular flavour pairings created in our stores, so you are never short of inspiration!

Gelato

madagascan vanilla gelato

gelato alla vaniglia del madagascar

Madagascan vanilla is perhaps the finest in the world. Harvesting the pods is incredbily labour-intensive, making it a luxury item. This lavish gelato uses four pods but is one of the best ways to appreciate the pure, rich flavour of vanilla. Serve on it’s own or it is the perfect accompaniment for fresh fruit.

500 ml/2 cups organic whole milk

165 ml/⅔ cup organic whipping cream

4 Madagascan vanilla pods/beans

160 g/¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon organic (caster) sugar

1 free-range egg white

Serves 4

Put the milk and whipping cream in a small saucepan and heat gently until it reaches boiling point.

Use a sharp knife to split the vanilla pod lengthways and scrape the seeds from the pods into the milk mixture. Stir, then pour the mixture into a heat-resistant bowl and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

In a large mixing bowl and using an electric hand whisk, beat together the sugar and egg white until it forms soft peaks when the beaters are lifted out of the mixture. Add the chilled milk mixture and whisk for a further 20 seconds.

Pour the mixture into the gelato maker and churn freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

The gelato is best served immediately or can be kept in the freezer for up to 3–4 days.