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Historic, classic, creative, and fun, leather crafting is a craft for all ages. Whether you are just a beginner looking to get started, or an experienced leather artist in need of a concise reference, Leathercrafting is your guide to an enjoyable craft that lasts a lifetime. Master leather artisans Tony and Kay Laier introduce you to the basics of leather preparation, and show you how to use stamps, punches, cutters, and other essential tools. They provide expert tips on edge finishing methods, and take you step-by-step through a traditional floral carving project. From forming, moulding, and embossing leather to creative stitching, lacing, and braiding, this book will teach you all of the skills you'll need to make beautiful belts, wallets, purses, holsters, cases, jewelry, home accessories, and more.
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GET STARTEDinLEATHER CRAFTING
Step-by-Step Techniques & Tips for Crafting Success
TONY LAIER, KAY LAIER
Historic, everlasting, classic, trending, creative, fun, a craft for all ages — these all describe leather crafting. It has been called the “universal craft” because it is shared with each generation around the world through hands-on teaching, demonstrations, experience, and exploration. We hope you will have fun and benefit from the basic techniques and tips shown in this book.
Tony Laier has over 40 years of experience in the leather industry: as Director of Research and Development for Silver Creek Leather Company and Tandy Leather Company, as leather artist, designer, writer, teacher, market manager and in direct sales. He is a musician, Native American hobbyist, and a Vietnam veteran. Tony received the 1999 Al Stohlman Award for Achievement in Leather Craft and now serves on the Board of Trustees for the Al and Ann Stohlman Award Foundation. He also is the master tooler for Steel Strike Leather Products, Inc., a high-end leather furniture company in Buena Vista, CO, where he currently lives and works with his wife, Kay. She, too, has over 40 years in the leather art and advertising profession at Silver Creek Leather Company, Tandy Leather Company, and Tandycrafts National Advertising. Together, they have co-authored this book to share their years of accumulated knowledge with leather crafters of all ages and levels of experience.
ISBN 978-1-4972-0346-4
COPY PERMISSION: The written instructions, photographs, designs, patterns, and projects in this publication are intended for the personal use of the reader and may be reproduced for that purpose only. Any other use, especially commercial use, is forbidden under law without the written permission of the copyright holder. Every effort has been made to ensure that all information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools, and individual skills, neither the author nor publisher can be responsible for any injuries, losses, or other damages which may result from the use of the information in this book.
INFORMATION: All rights reserved. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied.
WARNING: Due to the components used in this craft, children under 8 years of age should not have access to materials or supplies without adult supervision. Under rare circumstances components of products could cause serious or fatal injury. Please read all safety warnings for the products being used. Neither New Design Originals, the product manufacturer, or the supplier is responsible.
NOTE: The use of products and trademark names is for informational purposes only, with no intention of infringement upon those trademarks.
© 2017 by Tony and Kay Laier and New Design Originals Corporation, www.d-originals.com, an imprint of Fox Chapel Publishing, 800-457-9112, 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552.
We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].
Printed in China
Fifth printing
About Leather: The Basics
Tools for Cutting Leather
Preparing Leather for Tooling
Preparing a Tooling Pattern
The Basics of Stamping
The “Carving” Swivel Knife
Basics of Traditional Floral Carving
More Carving Techniques
Edge Treatments and More
Using Punches for Designs
Leather Appliqués
Forming, Molding, and Embossing Leather
Coloring and Finishing Leather
Basic Stitching, Lacing, and Braiding
Using a Sewing Machine for Leather
Reenactment Costuming and Accoutrements
Leather Jewelry and Accents
Installing Hardware
Glossary
Acknowledgments
Index
For centuries, animal skins have been tanned to prepare them for use as garments, accessories, saddles, tack, utility items, and bindings. The animals that leather comes from can be grouped in two categories.
Domestic Animals: These are cows, pigs, and sheep, mostly by-products of the food industry.
Wild or Game Animals: Some are raised commercially, but most are taken in the wild. They include deer, elk, moose, bison, kangaroo, and some exotic animals like frogs, lizards, birds, and snakes.
Cow veg-tan side
Cowhide side
There are many different tanning processes. Most common today are the vegetable-tanning and chrome-tanning processes.
Hides are either suspended in pits or immersed in a large rotating drum in a tanning solution made by extracting the natural tannins or various trees and their bark. This produces leather suitable for hand tooling or stamping, machine embossing, molding, dyeing, and finishing.
This tannage uses chromium salts and takes much less time to process than veg-tan leather. It produces soft finished and suede leathers used for garments, footwear, upholstery, and more.
Latigo is cowhide that is combination tanned—both chrome- and veg-tanned. Normally mid to heavy weights, this leather is strong and durable, suitable for belts, straps, lace, footwear, horse tack, and outdoor gear.
Latigo leather
Ideal for craft and fashion accessories, lace, belts, and garments. Most, but not all, garment suede is chrome tanned. Suedes have been chrome tanned, sanded, and brushed on one or both sides for a soft, textured surface. One side usually has a finer texture. Suedes are pre-dyed, ready to cut, punch, and assemble into any size project. They are available in precut small pieces or full skins and sides. Sueded animal skins are made from cowhide splits, goat, pigskin, and deerskin.
Suede is also used for lace and is available in precut strips and rectangular pieces.
These leathers are available to the crafter in full hides, skins, sides, precut pieces, and lace, ready to cut to size for your project assembly. No dyeing or finishing is necessary. The most common sources are cow, calf, goat, pig, and deer.
Deerskins and deertan kidskins are soft, pliable, and available in precut pieces or full skins. Pre-dyed in a variety of colors, this leather is considered to be lightweight. The top side has a fine, pebbled grain, while the back is sueded. It can be cut with leather shears, a rotary cutter, or a die-cutting machine, and is used for garments, upholstery, lace, fringe, and more.
Decorative Prefinished Trim Leathers: These precut pieces come in a variety of embossed or stamped designs, textures, finishes, colors, and some come with hair on. They are perfect for craft projects and creative techniques.
Deerskin
Goat Full Skin
These very popular and affordable leathers are created when a permanent texture is pressed into a skin. This can give the leather (normally cowhide) the look and feel of an embellished grain, tooled design, or particular exotic animal such as crocodile or ostrich. Embossed leather is available with or without color and a finish. They are ideal for fashion accessories, and craft and home décor projects.
These skins have been tanned but not de-haired. Hair-on leathers are most often used as craft and home decor accents. Full hides, skins, and precut pieces are available in cow, calf, rabbit, sheep, bison, and more.
Remnants are normally pieces of leather left over from the manufacturing process. These may come from factories producing shoes, furniture, bags, cases, or other leather goods. Some of the leathers included are cowhide, deerskin, latigo, prefinished leathers, and suedes.
HERE ARE SOME HELPFUL TERMS
Grain Side: The top, smooth, outer side of a piece of leather.
Flesh Side: The underside or rough side of a piece of leather.
Hide: The whole pelt of a large animal.
Skin: The whole pelt of a small animal.
Side: Half of a hide or skin.
Back: A side with the belly section removed. The back is firmer than the belly.
Belly: The lower part of a side. The belly has more stretch than the back.
Single Shoulder: The “single” shoulder area of a side.
Double Shoulder: The “double” shoulder area of a full hide.
For more terminology, see the Glossary on pages 46–47.
This popular tool is used for cutting straight and slightly curved cuts.
•Ideal for cutting soft, stretchy leathers.
•Use a straight edge for easier cutting.
•Replace the blade when it’s dull.
Rotary cutter
These knives are a must for leather craft projects.
•Use a plastic or metal straight edge for easier cutting.
•Turn the leather so the cut parts are closest to you.
•Keep the blades sharp by stropping. See page 13 for how to make a strop and use it, or have replacement blades available.
Leather scissors are used for light to medium weights of leather, lace, and thread.
Leather snips are best for lightweight leather, lace, and thread.
Use to ease cutting and protect your work surface. The self-healing feature prevents your knife from slipping into previous cut lines, plus the mat will last longer.
Self-healing cutting mat
Protects your work surface from cutting, punching holes, and tooling.
STRAIGHT EDGES, SQUARES, TEMPLATES
Handy tools to make cutting easier.
TIPS: CUTTING DIFFERENT LEATHERS
Cutting Veg-Tan, Prefinished, and Suedes: