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- Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
- Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2020
The patterns and instruction you need to start crocheting and kitting today! Knitting and crocheting go hand-in-hand and are the most popular yarn crafts today. This one-stop guide to all things needles, hooks, and yarn will give you everything you need to know to get started knitting or crocheting. The book covers absolute basics such as selecting yarn, casting on, and even how to hold the tools and yarn, to understanding stitches, checking gauge, and deciphering patterns. Hundreds of projects, from beginner to advanced, include complete, step-by-step instructions as well as detailed illustrations and photos, and instructional videos online. It includes content from: * Knitting For Dummies * Knitting Patterns For Dummies * Crocheting For Dummies * Crochet Patterns For Dummies Get started today and you'll be knitting and crocheting like a champ in no time!
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Knitting & Crocheting All-in-One For Dummies®
Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com
Copyright © 2020 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published simultaneously in Canada
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2020930145
ISBN 978-1-119-65293-9 (pbk); ISBN 978-1-119-65296-0 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-119-65294-6 (ebk)
Knitting & Crocheting All-in-One For Dummies®
To view this book's Cheat Sheet, simply go to www.dummies.com and search for “Knitting & Crocheting All-in-One For Dummies Cheat Sheet” in the Search box.
Table of Contents
Cover
Introduction
About This Book
Foolish Assumptions
Icons Used in This Book
Beyond the Book
Where to Go from Here
Book 1: Getting Started
Chapter 1: Needles, Hooks, and Other Tools
Selecting Knitting Needles
Choosing a Crochet Hook
Collecting Gizmos and Gadgets
Chapter 2: Yearning for Yarn
Understanding Yarn Fundamentals
Reading Yarn Labels
Choosing Yarn for a Project
Chapter 3: Right-Sizing with Gauge
Why (and When) Gauge Matters
Knowing What Affects Gauge
Making a Gauge Swatch
Measuring Your Gauge
Matching Your Pattern’s Gauge
Designing with Gauge in Mind
Chapter 4: Reading Patterns
Understanding Knitting Patterns
Following Crochet Patterns
Book 2: Knitting Basics
Chapter 1: Knitting Fundamentals
Casting On
Now You’re Knitting and Purling
Binding (or Casting) Off
Chapter 2: Basic Stitches
Go-To Stitches: Garter, Stockinette, and Seed Stitches
Adding Stretch with Ribbed Stitches
Chapter 3: Techniques Every Knitter Should Know
Slipping Stitches
Making a Yarn Over
Twisting Stitches: Knitting through the Back Loop
Working Increases
Doing Decreases
Chapter 4: Knitting in the Round
Going in Circles Can Be a Good Thing
Choosing Needles for Circular Knitting
Casting On for Circular Knitting
Joining the Round
Working Common Stitches in the Round
Using Steeks for a Clean Break
Measuring Gauge in the Round
Chapter 5: Fixing Common Mistakes
Stopping Mistakes or Catching Them Early
Dealing with Dropped Stitches
Ripping (Your Heart) Out
Book 3: Crocheting Basics
Chapter 1: Focusing on Fundamental Stitches
Preparing to Crochet
Tied Up in Stitches: The Three Basics
Foundation Stitches: The Chain and the First Row All in One
Taking Things to the Next Level: Row Two
The Anatomy of a Stitch
All’s Well That Ends Well: Fastening Off
Troubleshooting Mistakes as You Crochet
Luxurious Washcloth Projects
Chapter 2: Expanding Your Stitch Choices
Doing a Double Crochet
Trying Your Hand at the Triple Crochet
Diving into Double Triple Crochet
Hooking a Half Double Crochet
Adding Height with Extended Stitches
Creating a Foundation Double Crochet
Running on Empty: Joining a New Ball of Yarn
Chapter 3: Increasing and Decreasing Stitches
Increasing Stitches
Decreasing Stitches
Simple Ripple Blanket Project
Chapter 4: Crocheting in Circles
Lord of the Center Rings
Uniting Your Ring
Adding Rounds
Another Option: Spiraling Up and Up
Adding Another Dimension
Slouch Hat Project
Chapter 5: Multicolored Crochet
Bringing Designs to Life: Joining Colors
Hitching a Ride: Carrying the Yarn
Demystifying Color Codes and Charts
Crafty Math: Understanding the Fibonacci Sequence
Mod Pillow Project
Book 4: Expanding Your Skills
Chapter 1: Knitting Stripes
Seeking the Story on Stripes
Textured Stripes, or How to Stand Out in a Crowd
Knitting Colorful Stripes
Knitting Stripes in the Round
Stirring Up Stripes: Combining Texture and Color
Practice Striped Projects
Chapter 2: Creating Cables
Cable Basics
A Cornucopia of Cables
Making Twists
Practice Cable Projects
Chapter 3: Crochet Stitches That Create Pattern and Texture
Spicing Things Up with Pattern Stitches
Moving into the Third Dimension with Texture Stitches
Switching Up Your Stitch Placement
Working Stitches in Spaces and Other Interesting Places
Elegant All-Season Wrap Project
Comfy Cowl Project
Gingham Baby Blanket Project
Chapter 4: Tunisian Crochet
Taking a Look at Tunisian Crochet Tools
Creating the Tunisian Simple Stitch
Shaping the Tunisian Simple Stitch
Varying Your Tunisian Crochet
Coloring Your Tunisian Crochet
Absorbent Hand Towel Project
Chapter 5: Crocheting Motifs
Granny’s a Square: Cornering Your Rounds
Don’t Be Square: Motifs of Different Shapes
Flower Power Project
Chapter 6: Making Lace
Reading Lace Charts
Knitting Different Kinds of Lace
Incorporating Lace into Other Pieces
Handling Mistakes While Making Lace
Blocking Lace
Filet Crochet for Newbies
Shaping Your Filet Crochet Design
Spacing Filet Crochet with Lacets and Bars
Practice Lace Projects
Book 5: Popular Projects
Chapter 1: Scarves, Wraps, and Hats
Box Stitch Scarf
Longways Multiyarn Stole
Making Fringe
A Scarf of a Different Color
The Most Basic Shawl Ever
Lacy Shawl
Geometric Wrap
Basic Beanies
Red Velvet Crusher Hat
Chapter 2: Home Decor
Wooly Warmer Afghan
Wavy Chevron Throw
Throw Pillows
Shells and Lace Pillowcase Edging
Hemp Basket
Chapter 3: Baby and Kid Projects
Retro Slippers for Baby
One-Piece Baby Sweater
Baby’s Layette: Cardigan, Booties, Hat, and Blanket
Tunisian Crochet Baby Blanket
Storybook Hats
Chapter 4: Bags for All Occasions
Mosaic Bags
Felted Messenger Bag
Crocheted Tote Bag
Book 6: Sweaters
Chapter 1: Anatomy of a Knitted Sweater Pattern
Picture This: Studying the Garment Photo
Assessing the Pattern at a Glance
Chapter 2: Knitting a Sweater, Step by Step
Gathering Your Materials
Before You Cast On
Knitting … at Last!
The Big Picture: Keeping Track of Where You Are
Women’s Easy Top-Down Raglan
Chapter 3: Knitting Neckbands, Edging, Buttonholes, and More
Picking Up Stitches to Knit
Bring on the Bands
Hole in One: Buttonholes
Button Up!
Chapter 4: Crocheting Your First Sweater
Choosing Stitches and Yarn for Your Sweater
Selecting a Super Sweater Style
Sizing Up the Sweater Situation
Shell Shock Project
Chapter 5: Crocheting Sweater Edges and Buttonholes
Adding Trims: Edgings, Borders, and Collars
Holding Things Together: Buttonholes, Ties, and Drawstrings
Book 7: Finishing Touches
Chapter 1: Blocking and Felting
Tying Up Loose Ends
Blocking Your Way into Perfect Shape
Shaping Three-Dimensional Designs
Fulling (or Felting) to Make Sturdy Fabric
Chapter 2: Joining Pieces
Sewing Pieces Together
Knitting Pieces Together
Crocheting Pieces Together
Assembling a Sweater
Chapter 3: Caring for Your Work
Keeping Care Instructions Handy
Cleaning Knitted and Crocheted Items
Storing Your Work
Removing Those Pesky Pills
Index
About the Authors
Connect with Dummies
End User License Agreement
List of Tables
Book 1 Chapter 1
TABLE 1-1 Common Standard Crochet Hook Sizes
TABLE 1-2 Common Steel Crochet Hook Sizes
Book 1 Chapter 4
TABLE 4-1 Common Knitting Abbreviations
TABLE 4-2 Common Crochet Abbreviations
Book 3 Chapter 1
TABLE 1-1 How Many Chain Stitches Make a Turning Chain?
Book 3 Chapter 4
TABLE 4-1 Increasing Stitches in Rounds
Book 5 Chapter 3
TABLE 3-1 Cast On Chart for Adult Retro Slippers
TABLE 3-2 Cast On Numbers for Different Yarns and Gauges
Book 6 Chapter 4
TABLE 4-1 Determining Sweater Fit
List of Illustrations
Book 1 Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: Three kinds of knitting needles.
FIGURE 1-2: Straight knitting needle anatomy.
FIGURE 1-3: Chart of needle sizes.
FIGURE 1-4: Two kinds of needle tips.
FIGURE 1-5: The five parts of a crochet hook.
FIGURE 1-6: Standard and steel hooks and the range of available sizes.
FIGURE 1-7: A common needle and tension gauge.
FIGURE 1-8: Cable needles.
FIGURE 1-9: Nonessential but handy accessories.
Book 1 Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: Different weights create different effects.
FIGURE 2-2: A comparison of yarn weights.
FIGURE 2-3: The Standard Yarn Weight System.
FIGURE 2-4: Identifying key information on a yarn label.
FIGURE 2-5: Yarn comes in balls, skeins, and hanks.
FIGURE 2-6: Making a butterfly.
FIGURE 2-7: Wrapping the yarn loosely around thumb and fingers.
Book 1 Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: One square inch of stockinette measured.
FIGURE 3-2: Smaller needles result in tighter stitches; bigger needles, in loos...
FIGURE 3-3: Gauge on different stitch patterns.
FIGURE 3-4: Measuring gauge for a single-stitch pattern.
FIGURE 3-5: Measuring gauge over a repeating pattern of stitches.
FIGURE 3-6: Measuring a stitch gauge in rounds.
Book 1 Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: Pattern instructions in chart form.
FIGURE 4-2: Sample chart for a repeating color motif.
FIGURE 4-3: Stitch diagram to illustrate stitches repeated within a bracket.
FIGURE 4-4: The International Crochet Symbols for a variety of stitches.
FIGURE 4-5: Stitch diagram of a repeated lacy-row pattern.
FIGURE 4-6: A swatch of lacy-row pattern.
Book 2 Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: Get the slip knot (the first stitch) on your needle.
FIGURE 1-2: Catch a loop from your left hand.
FIGURE 1-3: Finished cast on stitches.
FIGURE 1-4: Work a cable cast on.
FIGURE 1-5: Working a thumb cast on.
FIGURE 1-6: Insert the RH needle into the first stitch on the LH needle.
FIGURE 1-7: Complete a knit stitch.
FIGURE 1-8: Your first knitted stitch is on your RH needle.
FIGURE 1-9: The first stitch of the next row.
FIGURE 1-10: Insert the RH needle and wrap the yarn to purl.
FIGURE 1-11: Finish your purl stitch.
FIGURE 1-12: Carry the yarn in your left hand for Continental style.
FIGURE 1-13: Start a Continental knit stitch.
FIGURE 1-14: Complete a Continental knit stitch.
FIGURE 1-15: Set up for a Continental purl stitch.
FIGURE 1-16: Complete a Continental purl stitch.
FIGURE 1-17: Bind off a stitch.
Book 2 Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: Garter stitch.
FIGURE 2-2: Stockinette stitch showing the knit side.
FIGURE 2-3: Stockinette stitch showing the knit (or smooth) side.
FIGURE 2-4: Reverse stockinette showing the purl (or bumpy) side.
FIGURE 2-5: Seed stitch.
FIGURE 2-6: 1 x 1 ribbing.
FIGURE 2-7: 2 x 2 ribbing.
FIGURE 2-8: 4 x 2 ribbing.
FIGURE 2-9: 4 x 4 ribbing.
Book 2 Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: Slipping stitches purlwise (a) and knitwise (b).
FIGURE 3-2: Making a yarn over between 2 knit stitches.
FIGURE 3-3: Making a yarn over between a knit stitch and a purl stitch.
FIGURE 3-4: Making a yarn over between 2 purl stitches.
FIGURE 3-5: Making a yarn over between a purl stitch and a knit stitch.
FIGURE 3-6: You can knit into the front (a) or the back (b) of stitches.
FIGURE 3-7: Purling into the front (a) and the back (b) of stitches.
FIGURE 3-8: Knitting a make 1 increase that twists to the right.
FIGURE 3-9: Purling a make 1 increase that twists to the right.
FIGURE 3-10: Knitting a make 1 increase that twists to the left.
FIGURE 3-11: The stitch you knit in when you knit into the stitch below.
FIGURE 3-12: Knitting 2 stitches together (k2tog).
FIGURE 3-13: Purling 2 stitches together (p2tog).
FIGURE 3-14: Working a slip, slip, knit (ssk) decrease.
FIGURE 3-15: Purling 2 slipped stitches through the back of the loops.
FIGURE 3-16: Bringing the 2 slipped stitches over in a vertical double decrease...
Book 2 Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: Ready to knit on a circular needle.
FIGURE 4-2: Dividing stitches among three (a) and four (b) double-pointed needl...
FIGURE 4-3: The first stitch in a round.
FIGURE 4-4: Sew two to four vertical lines.
FIGURE 4-5: Crocheting a steek in place.
FIGURE 4-6: Cut between the two lines to open the fabric.
Book 2 Chapter 5
FIGURE 5-1: A dropped stitch viewed from the knit side.
FIGURE 5-2: A dropped knit stitch and ladder.
FIGURE 5-3: A dropped knit stitch ready to be worked.
FIGURE 5-4: Insert the LH needle into the dropped stitch.
FIGURE 5-5: Transfer the stitch to the ready-to-knit position.
FIGURE 5-6: Pick up a dropped purl stitch.
FIGURE 5-7: Pull the dropped stitch over.
FIGURE 5-8: Replace the rescued stitch in the ready-to-work position.
FIGURE 5-9: Pull through the first strand.
FIGURE 5-10: Knit stitches connected to the strand.
FIGURE 5-11: Pick up a dropped purl stitch from the back.
FIGURE 5-12: Unforming a knit stitch (a) and a purl stitch (b).
FIGURE 5-13: Insert the needle into the stitch below.
FIGURE 5-14: Put stitches on your RH needle as you work toward your mistake.
Book 3 Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: The over-the-hook position for lefties and righties.
FIGURE 1-2: The under-the-hook position for lefties and righties.
FIGURE 1-3: Wrapping the yarn over your yarn hand.
FIGURE 1-4: Making the pretzel-shaped loop to begin the slipknot.
FIGURE 1-5: Insert hook in loop.
FIGURE 1-6: Tightening the loop around the hook.
FIGURE 1-7: Proper position of both hands for the over-the-hook position.
FIGURE 1-8: Proper position of both hands for the under-the-hook position.
FIGURE 1-9: What a finished yarn over looks like when done correctly.
FIGURE 1-10: An incorrect yarn over.
FIGURE 1-11: Making a chain stitch.
FIGURE 1-12: Several completed chain stitches and growing.
FIGURE 1-13: Hold completed chain stitches closer to the hook to control your w...
FIGURE 1-14: Looking at the right and wrong (front and back) sides of a chain.
FIGURE 1-15: Knowing where to insert your hook in the foundation chain.
FIGURE 1-16: Inserting the hook into the first chain stitch made.
FIGURE 1-17: Wrapping the yarn over the hook (yo) and pulling it through the lo...
FIGURE 1-18: Finishing up a slip stitch.
FIGURE 1-19: Inserting the hook into the second chain stitch from the hook.
FIGURE 1-20: Drawing the yarn through the stitch.
FIGURE 1-21: Pull the yarn gently through both loops on the hook.
FIGURE 1-22: Inserting the hook into the next chain stitch.
FIGURE 1-23: A complete row of single crochet.
FIGURE 1-24: Pulling your yarn through a chain stitch.
FIGURE 1-25: Finishing the foundation chain portion.
FIGURE 1-26: Finishing the single crochet portion.
FIGURE 1-27: Starting your second foundation single crochet.
FIGURE 1-28: Two loops are now on the hook.
FIGURE 1-29: Completing the foundation chain portion of your second foundation ...
FIGURE 1-30: Completing the single crochet portion of your second foundation si...
FIGURE 1-31: Turning your work to crochet back across the row.
FIGURE 1-32: A comparison of turning chain heights.
FIGURE 1-33: Inserting the hook under the top 2 loops of the first stitch.
FIGURE 1-34: Drawing the yarn through the stitch.
FIGURE 1-35: A new row with one complete single crochet.
FIGURE 1-36: The various parts of a stitch.
FIGURE 1-37: Fastening off.
FIGURE 1-38: The stitch diagram for the Luxurious Washcloth with Border project...
Book 3 Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: Beginning a double crochet stitch.
FIGURE 2-2: Drawing your yarn through the loops.
FIGURE 2-3: Finishing the first row of double crochet.
FIGURE 2-4: Correctly (and incorrectly) inserting the hook for the first stitch...
FIGURE 2-5: Inserting the hook in the top chain of the turning chain.
FIGURE 2-6: Several rows of double crochet.
FIGURE 2-7: Beginning a triple crochet stitch.
FIGURE 2-8: Drawing the yarn through the loops on your hook.
FIGURE 2-9: Completing a triple crochet stitch.
FIGURE 2-10: Finishing your first row of triple crochet.
FIGURE 2-11: Inserting your hook in the second stitch.
FIGURE 2-12: Several rows of triple crochet.
FIGURE 2-13: Inserting your hook into the sixth chain from the hook.
FIGURE 2-14: Finishing the first row of double triple crochet.
FIGURE 2-15: Several rows of double triple crochet.
FIGURE 2-16: Beginning a half double crochet.
FIGURE 2-17: Finishing a half double crochet.
FIGURE 2-18: Finishing your first row of half double crochet.
FIGURE 2-19: Working a half double crochet into the second stitch.
FIGURE 2-20: Several rows of half double crochet.
FIGURE 2-21: Beginning an extended single crochet.
FIGURE 2-22: Finishing an extended single crochet.
FIGURE 2-23: One row of completed extended single crochet.
FIGURE 2-24: Several rows of extended single crochet.
FIGURE 2-25: Making a chain stitch for your extended double crochet.
FIGURE 2-26: Finishing an extended double crochet stitch.
FIGURE 2-27: Finishing the first row of extended double crochet.
FIGURE 2-28: Several rows of extended double crochet.
FIGURE 2-29: Beginning your first foundation double crochet.
FIGURE 2-30: Finishing the foundation chain portion of the stitch.
FIGURE 2-31: Pulling the yarn through the first 2 loops on the hook.
FIGURE 2-32: Completing the first foundation double crochet.
FIGURE 2-33: Starting your second foundation double crochet.
FIGURE 2-34: Completing the foundation chain portion.
FIGURE 2-35: Pulling yarn through the first 2 loops on the hook.
FIGURE 2-36: Completing the second foundation double crochet.
FIGURE 2-37: Drawing new yarn through both loops on your hook.
FIGURE 2-38: Joining yarn with a slipknot.
Book 3 Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: Increasing with single crochet.
FIGURE 3-2: Working a double crochet increase at the beginning of a row.
FIGURE 3-3: Working a double crochet increase in the middle of a row.
FIGURE 3-4: Beginning the second part of a single crochet decrease.
FIGURE 3-5: Finishing a single crochet decrease.
FIGURE 3-6: Completing the first part of a double crochet decrease.
FIGURE 3-7: Beginning the second part of a double crochet decrease.
FIGURE 3-8: Finishing a double crochet decrease.
FIGURE 3-9: Beginning a half double crochet decrease.
FIGURE 3-10: The second half of the half double crochet decrease.
FIGURE 3-11: A completed half double crochet decrease.
FIGURE 3-12: Decreasing three double crochet stitches with slip stitches.
FIGURE 3-13: Decreasing double crochet by stopping and turning your work.
FIGURE 3-14: The stitch diagram for the Simple Ripple Blanket.
Book 3 Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: Making the center ring chain.
FIGURE 4-2: Completing the center ring.
FIGURE 4-3: Working a single crochet into the center ring.
FIGURE 4-4: Working a round of single crochet.
FIGURE 4-5: Inserting the hook into your first chain stitch.
FIGURE 4-6: Making your first round of double crochet in the center ring chain ...
FIGURE 4-7: Setting up the adjustable ring.
FIGURE 4-8: Making the first round of single crochet in an adjustable ring.
FIGURE 4-9: Joining a single crochet round with a slip stitch.
FIGURE 4-10: Joining a double crochet round with a slip stitch.
FIGURE 4-11: Two definite sides: the right/front side (a) and the wrong/back si...
FIGURE 4-12: Single crochet stitch diagram for working in a spiral.
FIGURE 4-13: The stitch diagram for the Slouch Hat project.
Book 3 Chapter 5
FIGURE 5-1: Joining a new color at the beginning (or end) of a row.
FIGURE 5-2: Changing to a new color of yarn within a row, wrong side facing.
FIGURE 5-3: Carrying a strand across the wrong side.
FIGURE 5-4: Working over a carried strand.
FIGURE 5-5: Carrying the unused strand up the side of your work.
FIGURE 5-6: A sample color chart and key.
FIGURE 5-7: Sample swatch worked from a color chart.
FIGURE 5-8: The color chart and key for the back of the Mod Pillow.
Book 4 Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: Reverse stockinette stripes.
FIGURE 1-2: Garter stitch stripes.
FIGURE 1-3: Carry yarn up the side and tuck it in as you go.
FIGURE 1-4: Compare a jogless stripe to one with a jog at the color change.
FIGURE 1-5: Chevron pattern.
Book 4 Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: Chart and key for a 6-stitch cable that twists to the left.
FIGURE 2-2: Work the cable row.
FIGURE 2-3: Open cable.
FIGURE 2-4: Double cable.
FIGURE 2-5: Wave cables.
FIGURE 2-6: Chain cable.
FIGURE 2-7: Honeycomb cable.
FIGURE 2-8: Braid cable.
FIGURE 2-9: Insert the LH needle through the second slipped stitch from left to...
FIGURE 2-10: Insert the RH needle tip into the hanging stitch.
FIGURE 2-11: Insert the LH needle from left to right.
FIGURE 2-12: Pick up the hanging stitch.
FIGURE 2-13: 6-stitch cable chart with key.
Book 4 Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: The common V-stitch with its symbol.
FIGURE 3-2: Working a crossed double crochet stitch.
FIGURE 3-3: A completed shell stitch and its symbol.
FIGURE 3-4: Working a 4-double-crochet cluster.
FIGURE 3-5: A completed 4-double-crochet cluster stitch with symbol.
FIGURE 3-6: Making a picot stitch.
FIGURE 3-7: A finished picot stitch and its symbol.
FIGURE 3-8: Working a reverse single crochet.
FIGURE 3-9: Finishing the reverse single crochet.
FIGURE 3-10: Creating a bobble stitch.
FIGURE 3-11: A completed bobble stitch and its symbol.
FIGURE 3-12: Fashioning a puff stitch.
FIGURE 3-13: Finishing the puff stitch.
FIGURE 3-14: Completing a front popcorn stitch.
FIGURE 3-15: Completing a back popcorn stitch.
FIGURE 3-16: Making a loop stitch.
FIGURE 3-17: A completed loop stitch and its symbol.
FIGURE 3-18: Working in the different loops at the top of a stitch, plus the re...
FIGURE 3-19: Proper hook placement for crocheting into the side of a stitch.
FIGURE 3-20: Crocheting in the space between stitches.
FIGURE 3-21: Working stitches into a chain space or loop.
FIGURE 3-22: Inserting the hook for the front post double crochet.
FIGURE 3-23: Finishing a front post double crochet and noting its symbol.
FIGURE 3-24: Inserting your hook for the back post double crochet.
FIGURE 3-25: Completing a back post double crochet and noting its stitch symbol...
FIGURE 3-26: Creating a linked triple crochet.
FIGURE 3-27: A complete linked triple crochet and its stitch symbol.
FIGURE 3-28: Working subsequent linked triple crochets.
FIGURE 3-29: Working the first linked triple crochet in the second row.
FIGURE 3-30: Working a long single crochet stitch 3 rows below the current row....
FIGURE 3-31: A completed long stitch in single crochet.
FIGURE 3-32: Stitch diagram for the Elegant All-Season Wrap.
FIGURE 3-33: Stitch diagram for the Comfy Cowl project.
FIGURE 3-34: Schematic for the Comfy Cowl project.
FIGURE 3-35: Stitch diagram for the Gingham Baby Blanket project.
Book 4 Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: A sampling of Tunisian crochet hooks.
FIGURE 4-2: A swatch of Tunisian simple stitch.
FIGURE 4-3: Working the forward half of the foundation row.
FIGURE 4-4: Working off the loops on the return half.
FIGURE 4-5: A completed foundation row of Tunisian crochet.
FIGURE 4-6: Working the forward half of your second row.
FIGURE 4-7: Increasing at the beginning of the forward half of a row.
FIGURE 4-8: Working a decrease in the forward half of a row.
FIGURE 4-9: A swatch of Tunisian knit stitch.
FIGURE 4-10: Working the forward half of the Tunisian knit stitch row.
FIGURE 4-11: A completed first row of Tunisian knit stitch.
FIGURE 4-12: A swatch of Tunisian purl stitch.
FIGURE 4-13: Working the forward half of the Tunisian purl stitch.
FIGURE 4-14: A completed row of Tunisian purl stitch.
FIGURE 4-15: Charted design and chart key (a) and a swatch (b) created from the...
FIGURE 4-16: Drawing up the designated number of loops of the next color.
FIGURE 4-17: Working off the next color.
FIGURE 4-18: Cross-stitch chart and key.
FIGURE 4-19: Working the first half of a row of cross-stitch on Tunisian simple...
FIGURE 4-20: Working the second half of a row of cross-stitch on Tunisian simpl...
FIGURE 4-21: A swatch of cross-stitch on Tunisian simple stitch.
FIGURE 4-22: Absorbent Hand Towel chart and chart key.
Book 4 Chapter 5
FIGURE 5-1: The stitch diagram of a basic granny square motif.
FIGURE 5-2: A granny square swatch.
FIGURE 5-3: The stitch diagram for the lacy hexagon motif.
FIGURE 5-4: A finished sample of the lacy hexagon motif.
FIGURE 5-5: The stitch diagram for the flat flower motif.
FIGURE 5-6: A completed sample of the flat flower motif.
FIGURE 5-7: The stitch diagram for the layered flower motif with two layers of ...
FIGURE 5-8: A finished sample of the layered flower motif.
FIGURE 5-9: The stitch diagram for the Flower Power project.
Book 4 Chapter 6
FIGURE 6-1: An example of a lace chart.
FIGURE 6-2: Chart that includes the no-stitch symbol.
FIGURE 6-3: Ridged ribbon eyelet and chart.
FIGURE 6-4: Cloverleaf eyelet pattern.
FIGURE 6-5: Arrowhead lace and chart.
FIGURE 6-6: Miniature leaf open lace pattern.
FIGURE 6-7: Chart for the miniature leaf pattern.
FIGURE 6-8: Faggot lace by itself (a) and combined with another lace pattern (b...
FIGURE 6-9: Chart for faggot lace.
FIGURE 6-10: Arrowhead lace used as a horizontal insertion.
FIGURE 6-11: Detail of the cloverleaf eyelet pattern.
FIGURE 6-12: Recognizing yarn overs and decreases on your needle.
FIGURE 6-13: A sample filet crochet chart and key.
FIGURE 6-14: The first row of filet crochet spaces.
FIGURE 6-15: The first row of filet crochet blocks.
FIGURE 6-16: A swatch of filet crochet that combines spaces and blocks.
FIGURE 6-17: Increasing one filet crochet space at the beginning of a row.
FIGURE 6-18: Increasing two spaces at the start of a row.
FIGURE 6-19: Increasing one block at the start of a row.
FIGURE 6-20: The beginning of a two-block increase at the start of a row.
FIGURE 6-21: Working an increase space at the end of a row.
FIGURE 6-22: Working additional spaces at the end of a row.
FIGURE 6-23: Working an extra block at the end of a row.
FIGURE 6-24: A complete block increase at the end of a row.
FIGURE 6-25: Decreasing at the beginning of a row: (a) blocks and (b) spaces.
FIGURE 6-26: Decreasing at the end of a row: (a) blocks and (b) spaces.
FIGURE 6-27: A finished lacet over two spaces.
FIGURE 6-28: A bar worked over a lacet.
FIGURE 6-29: A finished swatch of filet crochet featuring all four stitches.
FIGURE 6-30: Chart and chart key for the Butterfly Runner project.
FIGURE 6-31: Butterfly Runner chart with shaped edges and chart key.
Book 5 Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: Box stitch.
FIGURE 1-2: A box stitch scarf is always fresh.
FIGURE 1-3: Knitting with two yarns held together.
FIGURE 1-4: A longways multiyarn stole is breathtaking.
FIGURE 1-5: By using the single crochet stitch in this scarf, you can focus on ...
FIGURE 1-6: A stunning (and stunningly simple) shawl.
FIGURE 1-7: Two smaller triangular shawls make a great poncho.
FIGURE 1-8: A lacy shawl is dramatic and flattering.
FIGURE 1-9: Two triangles worked together to create an easy-to-wear shawl.
FIGURE 1-10: You can wear the geometric wrap traditionally or wrapped around yo...
FIGURE 1-11: Reduced sample of stitch pattern.
FIGURE 1-12: A basic beanie and its cabled cousin.
FIGURE 1-13: You can toss this crusher hat in a bag when you’re not wearing it,...
Book 5 Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: The wooly warmer afghan will protect you from winter’s chill.
FIGURE 2-2: Complementary colors draw attention to the chevron design of this a...
FIGURE 2-3: Reduced sample of stitch pattern.
FIGURE 2-4: Spruce up your living space with throw pillows.
FIGURE 2-5: Stitches made with yarn in back and with yarn in front.
FIGURE 2-6: Dress up your pillows with this elegant edging.
FIGURE 2-7: Reduced sample of edging stitch diagram.
FIGURE 2-8: After you see how handy this basket is, you’ll want to shout, “Hemp...
Book 5 Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: Try these easy slippers for baby — and the whole family!
FIGURE 3-2: Folding and sewing your slippers.
FIGURE 3-3: This baby sweater is knit all in one piece.
FIGURE 3-4: The shape and dimensions of the baby sweater.
FIGURE 3-5: The layette cardigan construction.
FIGURE 3-6: This baby blanket, worked in basic afghan stitch, keeps a little on...
FIGURE 3-7: A storybook hat chases away the winter blues.
Book 5 Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: The felted mosaic purse and tote.
FIGURE 4-2: The pinbox mosaic pattern repeat presented in a chart.
FIGURE 4-3: Puzzle piece mosaic.
FIGURE 4-4: Puzzle piece mosaic chart.
FIGURE 4-5: The woven cord mosaic.
FIGURE 4-6: The woven cord mosaic, charted.
FIGURE 4-7: Three 8-stitch mosaics from top to bottom.
FIGURE 4-8: Little mosaic chart.
FIGURE 4-9: The chart for the little boxes mosaic.
FIGURE 4-10: Miniature mosaic chart.
FIGURE 4-11: The felted messenger bag has linen stitch straps.
FIGURE 4-12: Wrapping the yarn around the edge stitch.
FIGURE 4-13: The dimensions of the messenger bag before felting.
FIGURE 4-14: Attaching the straps to your bag.
FIGURE 4-15: You intentionally shrink this carry-all after you’re done crocheti...
Book 6 Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: A sample schematic showing shape and measurements.
FIGURE 1-2: Sample chart for a repeating color motif.
Book 6 Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: Charting shoulder and neck shaping for easy reference.
FIGURE 2-2: Charting a sleeve with increases (looking at the right half of the ...
FIGURE 2-3: A diagram of a sweater back.
FIGURE 2-4: Diagram of the Women’s Easy Top-Down Raglan sweater.
Book 6 Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: Pick up stitches along a bound-off horizontal edge.
FIGURE 3-2: Pick up stitches along a bound-off vertical edge.
FIGURE 3-3: Pick up stitches on a bound-off curved neckline.
FIGURE 3-4: Knit a test band.
FIGURE 3-5: All-purpose horizontal buttonhole.
FIGURE 3-6: Picking up the loop from the bound-off stitch.
FIGURE 3-7: Vertical buttonhole.
FIGURE 3-8: Eyelet buttonhole.
FIGURE 3-9: Create a thread shank by sewing over a toothpick or small needle.
Book 6 Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: Sleeveless sweater styles: (a) two-panel V-neck and (b) simple shel...
FIGURE 4-2: More sleeveless sweater styles: (a) tank top with shaping and (b) c...
FIGURE 4-3: A pullover with no shaping.
FIGURE 4-4: Pullover styles: (a) drop-shoulder crewneck and (b) inset sleeves w...
FIGURE 4-5: More pullover styles: (a) cap sleeves with a scoop neck and (b) rag...
FIGURE 4-6: Cardigan styles: (a) V-neck and (b) hooded.
FIGURE 4-7: Unique construction: (a) motif sweater and (b) vertical-stripe card...
FIGURE 4-8: Schematic for the Shell Shock project.
FIGURE 4-9: A reduced sample of the stitch-repeat pattern for the Shell Shock p...
Book 6 Chapter 5
FIGURE 5-1: Working single crochet ribbing.
FIGURE 5-2: A swatch of single crochet ribbing with its stitch diagram.
FIGURE 5-3: Working post stitch ribbing.
FIGURE 5-4: Double crochet post stitch ribbing swatch with stitch diagram.
FIGURE 5-5: Working a buttonhole horizontally.
FIGURE 5-6: Working a buttonhole vertically.
FIGURE 5-7: A completed button loop worked in the last two rows of edging.
FIGURE 5-8: Working a button loop in the last row of edging.
FIGURE 5-9: A completed button loop on the edge of a work.
Book 7 Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: Weave the yarn end through the side loops.
FIGURE 1-2: Identify the over and under parts of the stitches on the purl side....
FIGURE 1-3: Thread the strand through the under bumps on the purl side.
FIGURE 1-4: Follow the path of the stitch.
FIGURE 1-5: Weave in an end along a bound-off edge.
FIGURE 1-6: Knitted fabric unfulled (a) and fulled (b).
Book 7 Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: Identify the running threads.
FIGURE 2-2: Join the bottom edges with a figure 8 for mattress stitch.
FIGURE 2-3: Pick up the running thread in mattress stitch.
FIGURE 2-4: Work a backstitch seam.
FIGURE 2-5: Assess how stitches are lined up for assembly.
FIGURE 2-6: Right sides together, needles pointing to the right, stitches align...
FIGURE 2-7: Insert the RH needle into the first stitch on both needles.
FIGURE 2-8: Bind off the first stitch on the RH needle.
FIGURE 2-9: Insert the needle up through the edge stitches to start grafting.
FIGURE 2-10: Insert the needle into the first loop on the top piece and exit th...
FIGURE 2-11: Completed grafting stitches.
FIGURE 2-12: Graft heads of stitches to sides of stitches.
FIGURE 2-13: Slip stitching pieces together.
FIGURE 2-14: Two crocheted pieces joined with a ridged slip stitch seam.
FIGURE 2-15: Creating a flat seam by slip stitching.
FIGURE 2-16: Two pieces joined with a flat slip stitch seam.
FIGURE 2-17: Creating a seam with single crochet.
FIGURE 2-18: A decorative single crochet seam on the right side of the work.
FIGURE 2-19: Crocheting a joining row.
FIGURE 2-20: A seam made by joining with a row of stitches.
FIGURE 2-21: Joining pieces on the last round.
FIGURE 2-22: A seam created by joining two pieces on the last round.
FIGURE 2-23: Align the set-in sleeve and armhole.
FIGURE 2-24: Pin the sleeve cap to the armhole.
Book 7 Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: Care instructions.
Guide
Cover
Table of Contents
Begin Reading
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Introduction
Knitting & crocheting are no longer considered something your grandmother did while sitting on the porch in her rocking chair. Knitted and crocheted designs are everywhere, from the racks in your favorite clothing store to fashion catalogs — even to the runways in Paris and Milan. These crafts even show up in movies and television shows. The reasons for this comeback are many, and by reading this book, you can discover some of those reasons and begin to enjoy a lifelong affair with the fiber arts.
Although knitting and crochet are time-honored crafts, that doesn’t mean they are behind the times. Advances in technology have made yarns softer and more colorful, with wonderful new textures appearing every time you turn around. No longer are knitters and crocheters limited to solid or variegated colors; yarn is now hand painted and space dyed. Although worsted-weight yarn is still a staple in every yarn cache, so many varieties of weights and textures are available today that it’s a challenge to categorize them all.
You’re never too old or too young to discover crochet. The skills that you master, the benefits that you receive, and the beautiful heirlooms that you create can last a lifetime and, ideally, be passed on to future generations.
About This Book
Knitting & Crocheting All-in-One For Dummies gives first-time knitters and crocheters hands-on experience with new skills and serves as a reference tool for those who already have some basic know-how. The book takes you step by step through the process of gathering your materials, creating your first stitches, and finishing off a piece of knitted or crocheted fabric. If that sounds somewhat overwhelming, relax. You find detailed written instructions and easy-to-follow illustrations throughout this book.
Each minibook in Knitting & Crocheting All-in-One For Dummies contains chapters full of information relevant to each other, with successive parts adding more building blocks to your knowledge. If you already have some experience and are looking to refine and expand your techniques, then the later chapters are for you. There, you can find advanced stitches and techniques, along with many tips to guide you. Finally, the projects throughout this book help you practice your newfound skills on fun and useful designs while feeling a sense of accomplishment for a job well done.
This book uses the following conventions to make the world of knitting & crocheting even easier for you to dive into:
When a new stitch or technique is introduced, you see its abbreviation in parentheses to help you become familiar with the shorthand used in knitting and crochet patterns. The abbreviation also appears the first time a stitch is mentioned in a set of numbered steps.
The specific part of an illustration that relates to the step you’re working on is shaded dark gray. For example, if you’re inserting your hook into a certain stitch, that stitch is shaded so you can see exactly where to go.
Foolish Assumptions
How does that saying about assuming something go? Well, never mind about that. Each step is explained as clearly and concisely as possible, so you don’t need any prior experience to understand the concepts introduced in this book.
The only assumption in this book is that you have a desire to learn the art of knitting and crochet. Beyond that, you only need to give it your best shot and don’t give up.
Icons Used in This Book
This icon highlights important points. You should remember them and apply them when dealing with the skills shown.
This icon clues you in to some tips of the trade that more experienced knitters and crocheters have discovered over time.
When you see this icon, read carefully. It marks potential pitfalls and helps you steer clear of frustrating and time-consuming mistakes.
Beyond the Book
In addition to all the great information and step-by-step instructions included in this book, you can find even more online! Head to dummies.com/go/knitcrochetAIO for tutorial videos and full color images of some of the projects in this book.
You can also find a handy online Cheat Sheet with a list of international knitting and crochet symbols and stitch abbreviations and abbreviations for common terms. Go to dummies.com and search for “Knitting & Crocheting All in One For Dummies.”
Where to Go from Here
Now that the introductions are over, it’s time to begin. The fun part is that where you start is entirely up to you! Knitting & Crocheting All-in-One For Dummies is written so you can start reading whatever section best fits your skill level.
If you’re an absolute beginner, start with
Books 1
,
2
, and
3
. They have all the essential information that you need to get started.
If you already have some experience with the basics and want to expand your knowledge, then look ahead to
Books 4
,
5
, and
6
, where you find advanced stitches and techniques and related projects. Whenever you need to know something that was covered in a previous chapter, you see a reference to that chapter.
If you used to knit or crochet and are coming back to it (sometimes life just gets too busy for fun stuff like this), skim through the chapters to reacquaint yourself with the techniques. The stitches themselves haven’t changed, but the materials have, and you may come across some useful info.
Book 1
Getting Started
Contents at a Glance
Chapter 1: Needles, Hooks, and Other Tools
Selecting Knitting Needles
Choosing a Crochet Hook
Collecting Gizmos and Gadgets
Chapter 2: Yearning for Yarn
Understanding Yarn Fundamentals
Reading Yarn Labels
Choosing Yarn for a Project
Chapter 3: Right-Sizing with Gauge
Why (and When) Gauge Matters
Knowing What Affects Gauge
Making a Gauge Swatch
Measuring Your Gauge
Matching Your Pattern’s Gauge
Designing with Gauge in Mind
Chapter 4: Reading Patterns
Understanding Knitting Patterns
Following Crochet Patterns
Chapter 1
Needles, Hooks, and Other Tools
IN THIS CHAPTER
Choosing knitting needles
Picking the right crochet hook
Getting other tools you’ll need
As with any new project that you decide to undertake, you first have to figure out what tools and materials you need to get the job done. For knitting or crocheting, your needs are pretty simple. Grab a set of needles or a crochet hook and some yarn, find a comfortable seat, and you’re ready to go.
In this chapter, you discover the different types of knitting needles and crochet hooks and when to use them. You also find out about other tools that aren’t necessary all the time but can be useful when you’re knitting or crocheting different types of designs.
Selecting Knitting Needles
Knitting needles come in a stunning assortment of materials, styles, and sizes to mesh with your knitting style, the particular project you’re working on, your aesthetics, and your budget.
Exploring needles
You can choose from three kinds of knitting needles: straight, circular, and double-pointed (see Figure 1-1 and the following sections).
Illustration by Wiley, Composition Services Graphics
FIGURE 1-1: Three kinds of knitting needles.
Telling it straight
Straight needles are generally used for flat knitting — knitting on the right side and then turning and knitting on the wrong side. Straight needles come in many standard lengths, ranging from 7-inch “scarf needles” to those that are 10, 13, and 14 inches. The larger your project, the longer the needle you need. (You also can knit flat with a circular needle for wide projects; see the next section for details about circular needles.) Figure 1-2 shows the various parts of straight needles.
Illustration by Wiley, Composition Services Graphics
FIGURE 1-2: Straight knitting needle anatomy.
Going in circles
A circular needle is simply a pair of straight knitting needle tips joined by a flexible cable. You can use a circular needle to knit in the round — knitting in a continuous, spiral-like fashion without turning your work. This technique creates a seamless tube large enough for a sweater body or small enough for a neckband. You also can use a circular needle as you would straight needles to work back and forth. This approach can be particularly handy for lengthwise-knit scarves, blankets, and other very wide pieces.
Circular needles are available in many different lengths, most frequently 16, 24, 29, and 36 inches, although they’re also available as long as 60 inches! For smaller circumferences, some knitters find that double-pointed needles, described in the next section, are more comfortable to work with.
When you buy a circular needle, check to make sure the spot where the needle tip meets the cable (called the join) is smooth to prevent stitches from snagging. Several manufacturers now make circular needles with interchangeable needle tips and various cable lengths. These interchangeable needles are useful for a wide variety of projects and make it very easy to swap needles when you’re attempting to find the right gauge for your chosen yarn.
The needle size appears on the package (which you can use as a storage case), but it doesn’t always appear on the needle itself, which can be a bit of a pain. To keep track of needle sizes, invest in a small metal or plastic needle gauge (discussed in “Collecting Gizmos and Gadgets” later in this chapter). A needle gauge has graduated holes to help you determine the size of your needle.
Doing rounds with double-pointed needles
Double-pointed needles (abbreviated dpns) have a point at each end and are sold in sets of four or five needles. They work the same way as a circular needle — in rounds. You use them to make small tubes when your knitting has too few stitches to stretch around the circumference of a circular needle — for such things as sleeve cuffs, tops of hats, socks, mittens, and so on. They come in 7- and 10-inch lengths and have even shown up in 5-inch lengths — a great boon to those who enjoy making socks and mittens.
Sizing them up
A needle’s size is determined by its diameter. The smaller the size, the narrower the needle and the smaller the stitch it makes. Figure 1-3 shows needle sizes and their US and metric equivalents.
Illustration by Wiley, Composition Services Graphics
FIGURE 1-3: Chart of needle sizes.
If you aren’t sure what needle sizes you’ll need in the future, try a circular knitting needle set with interchangeable tips. Even though the needle is designed for circular knitting, you can also use it to knit back and forth. Some sets feature plastic needle tips, some metal. These sets allow you to combine different-sized needle tips with different connector cords to make a very large range of needle sizes on the fly. An interchangeable circular needle is especially handy when you’re unsure which needle size to use for a given yarn. If the current size isn’t giving you the right gauge, simply switch the tip up or down one size instead of starting over on another needle.
FINDING THE PERFECT MATCH FOR YOUR PROJECT
Yarn labels (discussed in Book 1, Chapter 2) suggest appropriate needle sizes, but the best needle size for your project is dictated by your yarn, your gauge, and/or the hand (the way the knitted fabric feels in your hand) you want your final project to have. In general, medium- or worsted-weight yarn is knit on needles anywhere from size US 6 (4 mm) to size US 9 (5½ mm), depending on how tightly you knit and your desired look and feel for the final fabric.
After knitting a sample with the suggested needle size, you may feel that the fabric is more open than you want (needle too large) or too stiff (needle too small). In that case, try another needle size. Keep in mind that if you’re making a garment or project and you want to achieve the finished measurements given in the pattern, you need to meet the gauge and live with the hand of the sample. If you’re making a scarf or project where getting the exact number of stitches per inch isn’t important, you can experiment to your heart’s content with different needle sizes until you produce a fabric you like.
Accounting for needle makeup and tip type
Knitting needles, which were first mass-produced in steel, have been made in ivory, tortoiseshell, silver, whale bone, and more. Today you can find them made in ebony and rosewood, sherbet-colored pearly plastic, Teflon-coated aluminum, and even 14-carat gold-plated (yes, really). And that’s only the beginning. Whatever your needles are made of, the material does contribute more or less to your knitting comfort, speed, and the quality of your stitches. Here are some recommendations:
If you’re new to knitting, working on double-pointed needles, or following color patterns, good choices include wood (bamboo, walnut, and so on) and plastic.
Wood and some plastics have a very slight grip, giving you more control over your work and discouraging dropped stitches.
If you’re knitting in stockinette or a straightforward stitch pattern, a slippery needle makes sense.
The fastest ones are nickel-plated brass and call themselves Turbo. Use these needles and watch your stitches fly by before your eyes. (Also watch for more-easily dropped stitches.)
Although all needles look pretty much alike, you do notice a difference in the feel of various kinds of needles and in their interaction with your knitting style and the yarn you’re using. If you find that some feature of their construction or material is annoying you or interfering with the flow of your project, try a different kind of needle. Switching may make the difference between a knitting experience on cruise control and one that stops and starts and sputters along.
Needle tips can be long and tapered or rounder and blunter (see Figure 1-4). If you’re working a project with a lot of stitch manipulation (as in lace or cables), or if you’re a snug knitter (that is, your stitches are tight rather than loose), you’ll have an easier time if you use a needle with a long, tapered tip. If you’re knitting with a loosely spun yarn and/or you’re a relaxed knitter with looser stitches, you may prefer a blunter point.
Illustration by Wiley, Composition Services Graphics
FIGURE 1-4: Two kinds of needle tips.
Although they don’t fall directly into the category of different needle composition or tip type, square needles can be a great choice if you’re new to knitting. They’re made of metal or wood, and the shape makes them easier for the hands to hold. Stitches don’t fall off these square needles as easily as the standard round ones.
