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Unless they're on a lead, many dogs refuse to come back to their owners, and simply do as they please. Dogs like these commonly spend their lives on leads that are much too short, so are unable to enjoy the privilege of running free in meadows and fields, because they haven't learned to take notice of their owners and come back on call or whistle. The advice that's often given to anyone who owns a dog like this is to give line training a try, but not many people know how it's done. This is the first book published on this subject and provides step-by-step guidance on how to perform successful line training with your dog.
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Line Training for Dogs
How it’s done
By Monika Gutmann
For Dino and Hudson
Copyright of original edition © 2008 Cadmos Verlag GmbH, Schwarzenbek, Germany
Copyright of this edition © 2009 Cadmos Books, Great Britain
Translation: Alexandra Cox
Cover design and layout OF THE PRINTEDITION: Ravenstein + Partner, Verden
Cover all other photos (unless indicated): JBTierfoto
Editorial: Dorothee Dahl and Christopher Long
E-Book conversion: Satzweiss.com Print Web Software GmbH
All rights reserved: No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilized
in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library.
ISBN 978-3-86127-961-7
eISBN 978-0-85788-664-4
www.cadmos.co.uk
Introduction
What is long-line training?
Just 10 metres away from success
The most important thing first: how do dogs learn?
Classical conditioning: the bell rings, the dog salivates
Operant conditioning: dogs that can run backwards
Swiftness is the name of the game
Dogs learn in a specific context and are bad at generalising
Act variably
Thoughts about punishment
Rewards – your dog’s wages
Why reward?
What is the difference between rewarding and enticing?
When’s the time to reward?
What’s the reward?
Building up a command, using the ‘sit’ as an example
Learning cues
What do you need to remember?
Consolidating the exercise
The long line and other accessories for training
Harness
Long line
For puppies and small dogs
For bigger young dogs and adult dogs
Why is an extendable lead no good?
Treat pouch
Preparatory training
Orientation training
Training schedule for orientation exercises
Levels of distraction – duration of training
Everyday longline training
Walks with puppies and young dogs
Walks with older dogs
Building up recall
Learning cues
Extending waiting time
Summary: recall training structure
Slow down or stop – maintaining the radius
Learning cues
Structured training
Long-line training in a group – open field
Chair circle
Long-line training with aggression problems
Transforming feelings
Orientation training for aggressive dogs
Levels of distraction – duration of training
Potential problems and solutions
Increasing distraction/reducing distance
Walking in parallel
Approaching head-on
Important notes
Accompanying training
The name game
Impulse control – learning how to wait
Exercise at the door
Waiting until the dog is called
When can I stop using the long line?
Discontinuing the long line
Training schedule summary – discontinuing the long line
Clicker training
Basics
Various options
Problems that may crop up
Various exercises
Food machine
Looking on command
And finally – thank you!
Useful addresses
Index
8
Tension-free walks together at last: a 10-metre long line means so much more quality of life for both human and dog.
Introduction
Do you have a dog that won’t come back to you unless he’s on a lead or simply does as he pleases when he’s off the lead, completely ignoring you out of doors and reckoning that everything else is much more exciting than his human?
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Dogs like these commonly spend their lives either on a two-metre lead that’s much too short or on an extending lead, unable to enjoy the privilege of running free in meadows and fields because they haven’t learned to take notice of their humans and come back on call or whistle. The advice that’s often given to anyone owning a dog like this is to give long-line training a try. Many dog-owners, though, fail in the first week. Not many people can explain to them how long-line training works. Just hooking a 10-metre lead to the dog is not the answer. The frustration increases if handling the long lead is tricky: you keep getting tangled up or get terrible friction blisters on your hands or legs, or land on your bottom for the hundredth time. Exasperated, you finally give up and discard the long line and stop letting the dog run free altogether, except in the garden.
With well-structured and carefully thought-through long-line training, patience and single-mindedness, you can re-create a happy bond between you and your dog. Your dog will pay better attention to you, will be responsive again and, most important of all, will be sure to come back when called.
Long-line training is a safe way to get a dog to learn almost without mistakes. The emphasis here is on ‘a way’. There are many ways to work with a dog – it is not our intention here to propagate the one and only true ‘training method’. However, because it makes stress-free walks possible, the 10-metre lead brings added quality of life for many dogs and their humans. Long-line training enhances a human’s ability to keep a close eye on his or her dog.
This type of training, though, is not for people who expect to see a dog problem that has crept its way in and taken hold over years ‘magicked away’ after two weeks. Learning is a continuous process – and even things that are unpleasant for the owner are going to get learned. The do-it-yourself approach you’ve used so far means that your dog has learned that it’s more worth his while to keep his nose stuck in the mouse-hole than to listen for your call. In this book, training is always described in terms of positive reinforcement, because this is the most effective and enduring technique for changing and shaping behaviour. You will read more about learning behaviour in dogs in the chapter, ‘The most important thing first: how do dogs learn?’.
10
For people, it is a matter of course to learn everyday things, such as eating with a knife and fork, right from when we’re small. Many years of daily repetition enable us to hone this abil-ity. It wouldn’t occur to anyone to beat this self-evident social skill into an inquisitive toddler – it is practised and refined day by day by playing. The magic word is learning by succeeding. Whatever is learned needs to be repeated many times and improved so that our ‘muscle memory’ works properly – and commonly, it won’t work the way we’d like it to if we lack the talent, the genetic predisposition or the motivation. You may be asking yourself what genetic predispositions have to do with learning. Well, they have lots to do with it! If we were all the same, we would all have the same abilities. There’d be no children with learning difficulties, for example, there’d be nobody who wasn’t exactly as good at playing chess as at sprinting 100 metres, and we’d all have nothing to fear from hereditary diseases. Unfortunately, our genes dictate otherwise; some people, for example, have ‘slow’ muscles and no matter how much effort they put into training, they will never be good sprinters. However, if these people were to give long-distance running a try, they would be the successful ones. No two people are alike – and that applies to your dog, too. There are dogs that learn quickly, while others need time and some appear never to make any progress at all.
You cannot expect something from your dog that you have not taught him and that does not suit his natural abilities. A herding dog, for example, will ponder before deciding that a given auditory signal makes sense. True to his breed, he’ll come trotting up to you. A border collie, by contrast, will spin round on his hind legs and come hurtling up to you. It is essential to remember these things when you’re training your dog.
In my view, a behaviour has been ‘learned’ when a dog performs an action while I’m standing in front of him in the unlikeliest poses. The world could be coming to an end around him, but I expect a sit from him and he obeys.
This book enables you to follow a step-by-step training plan that provides you with important information about the basic laws of learning and a short introduction to clicker training.
So off we go! Train – don’t complain!