London's Afternoon Teas, Revised and Expanded 2nd Edition - Susan Cohen - E-Book

London's Afternoon Teas, Revised and Expanded 2nd Edition E-Book

Susan Cohen

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Beschreibung

London and tea go together like jam and scones, and this lovely book takes a stylish look at the afternoon tea scene. London's Afternoon Teas is the hippest and most up-to-date source of information for both London residents and tourists alike. Featuring 60 of the best places to take tea in London, including classics such as Claridges and the Wolseley as well as completely unexpected venues, there's a tea here to suit all tastes and budgets. The text includes the history of the venues, their most popular recipes, interesting facts, and types of teas available, along with details of nearby attractions to help the reader make a day of it. Now in hardcover, this revised second edition has been greatly expanded with additional tea venues, more pages, and new lavish photography.

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Published 2018—IMM Lifestyle Books

www.IMMLifestyleBooks.com

IMM Lifestyle Books are distributed in the UK by Grantham Book Service, Trent Road, Grantham, Lincolnshire, NG31 7XQ.

In North America, IMM Lifestyle Books are distributed by Fox Chapel Publishing, 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552, www.FoxChapelPublishing.com.

© 2014, 2018 by IMM Lifestyle Books

© 2014, 2018 text Susan Cohen

Produced under license.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publishers and copyright holders.

London’s Afternoon Teas, Revised & Expanded 2nd Edition (2018) is a completely revised edition of London’s Afternoon Teas (2014), published by IMM Lifestyle Books. Revisions include all new photographs, all new venues, and all new text.

Print ISBN 978-1-5048-0088-4eISBN 978-1-6076-5514-5

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Cohen, Susan, 1946–

Title: London’s afternoon teas / Susan Cohen.

Description: Revised & expanded 2nd edition. | Mount Joy [Pennsylvania] : IMM Lifestyle Books, 2018. | Includes index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2017054677 | ISBN 9781504800884

Subjects: LCSH: Tearooms—England—London—Guidebooks.

Classification: LCC TX907.5.B7 C646 2018 | DDC 642—dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017054677

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

This book has been published with the intent to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter within. While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the author and publisher expressly disclaim any responsibility for any errors, omissions, or adverse effects arising from the use or application of the information contained herein.

Introduction

There is nowhere better in the world to enjoy the quintessentially English custom of afternoon tea than London, the most vibrant and exciting capital city in the world. London has the most amazing selection of venues where you can indulge yourself and partake of anything from the most time-honoured afternoon teas to the newest twists on tradition.

Tea can be a late lunch or an early supper, in which case high tea fits the bill perfectly, with savoury items to add a bit more substance. You may be looking for a conventional afternoon tea of scones with lashings of clotted cream and fruity jam, luscious cakes, and finger sandwiches—without crusts, and there has to be cucumber. Perhaps you fancy a more savoury repast, or are searching for a tea designed with the carnivore in mind, or where there is whisky, gin, beer, or sake as well as tea to drink. Not forgetting that tea is often a family outing, there are plenty of venues which will appeal to parents and children alike. Maybe you are after a variation on a theme, whether it be an afternoon tea bus tour of London, an Alice in Wonderland–inspired afternoon tea, or a tea where your pooch can enjoy his or her own delicious doggy tea.

Whatever your taste, London can provide it all, and in an array of interesting and exciting locations. After all, the afternoon tea experience is not just about the food you eat and the tea you drink, but also about the space and place; in this city, fashion and style have had a powerful influence on afternoon tea. You can enjoy your afternoon tea in buildings steeped in history, from Georgian townhouses, resplendent in modern décor, to chic and buzzy bars. From elegant drawing rooms and opulent lounges in the grandest of hotels to French-style brasseries and the top of an iconic red London bus, there is somewhere to suit everyone, every budget, and every occasion. There are venues with spectacular views, others with light and bright conservatories, and even one, favoured by royalty, with a terrace overlooking a glorious private garden.

Whether you want to linger and chat with friends, have a business meeting in relaxed surroundings, commemorate a birthday or anniversary, collapse after a day’s shopping, or indulge in a pre-theatre high tea, the capital can provide the ideal location. Do not despair if you are venturing out of London, for you’ll find some selected places not far from the capital where you can enjoy an equally good afternoon tea. Afternoon tea is the perfect way to mark those special dates in the calendar, from Valentine’s Day to Mother’s Day, Easter to Halloween, and through to Christmas.

Then there are the great British annual social events, like Wimbledon week, the Chelsea Flower Show, and the Henley Royal Regatta; many of the venues in this book offer themed teas which celebrate these particular events. This guidebook is here to help you make your choice.

How afternoon tea started

Tavistock, Devon, staked its claim as the birthplace of the cream tea back in the early 11th century. The Benedictine Abbey had been looted by the Vikings in 997 AD, and a century later the monks rewarded the labourers who worked to restore it with a meal of bread, clotted cream, and strawberry preserve. The Devon cream tea proved so popular that the monks continued to serve it to passing travellers long after the builders had left.

It is uncertain whether Anna Maria, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, partook of scones and cream, but according to legend, it was she who was responsible for the invention of afternoon tea as an ‘event’ in the 1840s. The story goes that she was so hungry in the long gap between lunch and dinner at 9 o’clock in the evening that she ordered her maid to serve tea and cakes at 5 o’clock to alleviate her gnawing hunger pains. It was not long before afternoon tea became de riguer in London society.

As for the drink itself, high society also played their part in making tea central to the ritual. Tea was given the royal seal of approval by Catherine of Braganza, the Portuguese wife of King Charles II, who brought a chest of tea with her as part of her dowry in 1662. Queen Victoria’s Prime Minister, William Gladstone, captured the very essence of tea when he wrote these words in 1865: ‘Relaxing, refreshing, stimulating, or warming, there is little to compare with the comfort and delights of a steaming pot of tea’.

There is a certain magical, even mystical quality about tea, not least of all because of the amazing influence the tiny leaf exerts on everyday life. A cup of tea is the best reason in the world to stop for a break during the day. Life’s rites of passage would not be the same without tea, and the variety of leaves is such that every mood and taste can be catered for. As the world’s most popular drink, tea crosses all the boundaries of history, nation, culture, and class. At some time in their lives, most people, even the smallest children, acquire a ‘taste’ for tea, a habit that they rarely relinquish. The combination of a beautifully presented afternoon feast and freshly brewed leaf tea served in porcelain or bone china cups is a marriage made in heaven and an experience to be savoured.

The 21st century has seen afternoon tea gain an unprecedented popularity, with London serving as the mecca for the revival. Across the capital, venues in abundance create wonderful, often innovative menus, serve exquisite food and drink in perfect surroundings, and rely on the expertise of professionals to ensure you enjoy the best experience possible. Many of the venues have won prestigious awards, confirming their dedication to high standards.

No longer the preserve of ladies on a shopping trip or families celebrating a special occasion, afternoon tea has become a favourite pastime enjoyed by anyone and everyone, an up-to-the-minute sociable thing to do. The synergy of design, fashion, and food has had a wonderful impact and resulted in an exciting new genre, with afternoon teas on offer suited to every generation and to people from all walks of life. If you are a visitor to the capital, what better time-honoured British tradition could you choose to experience, and for the local, what better excuse could there be to leave the hustle and bustle of everyday life behind for a few hours? Afternoon tea is about treating yourself, your friends, and your family, either informally or in luxurious style, so find a venue that strikes your fancy and enjoy yourself.

Contents

11 Cadogan Gardens

The Ampersand

• RECIPE: White Chocolate Scones

The Athenaeum Hotel

Balthazar

The Berkeley

Biscuiteers

The Bloomsbury

Brigit’s Bakery

Brigit’s Bakery Afternoon Tea Bus and Boat Tours

Brown’s Hotel

Claridge’s

Cliveden House (Taplow, Berkshire)

The Connaught

Conrad London St James

Corinthia Hotel

Coworth Park (Ascot, Berkshire)

Dean Street Townhouse

The Dorchester

Egerton House Hotel

• RECIPE: Cape Seed Loaf

Fortnum & Mason

Four Seasons Hotel, Park Lane

• RECIPE: Lemon Cake with Rhubarb and Vanilla Filling

Four Seasons Hotel, Ten Trinity Square

The Goring

• RECIPE: Mince Pies

Grosvenor House

Ham Yard Hotel

Hotel Café Royal

Hotel du Vin, Cambridge (Cambridge, Cambridgeshire)

Hotel du Vin, Henley-on-Thames (Henley-on-Thames, Berkshire)

InterContinental London, The O2

InterContinental London, Park Lane

• RECIPE: Buttermilk Scones

The Ivy, Chelsea Garden

The Ivy Café, St John’s Wood

Kensington Palace

The Lanesborough

• RECIPE: Rocher Praline

The Langham

• RECIPE: Paris Brest

Mandarin Oriental

Marriott Hotel, County Hall

The Milestone Hotel

• RECIPE: Shortbread

Mondrian London

The Ned

Number Sixteen

Old Parsonage Hotel (Oxford, Oxfordshire)

• RECIPE: Macarons

One Aldwych

OXO Tower Restaurant

The Petersham (Richmond, Surrey)

The Ritz

Rosewood London

The Rubens at the Palace

• RECIPE: Brazil Nut Cake

Sanctum Soho Hotel

Sanderson

The Savoy

sketch

Sofitel London St James

The Soho Hotel

St Martins Lane

St Pancras Renaissance Hotel

The Stafford

The Wallace Restaurant

The Wellesley, Knightsbridge

The Wolseley

Credits

11 CADOGAN GARDENS

Just a short walk from Sloane Square, stroll along a leafy street of grand terraced houses, and once you’ve conquered the curious numbering system, you’ll find 11 Cadogan Gardens. Behind the Victorian façade is one of London’s best-kept secrets, a gem of a destination for afternoon tea. Quintessentially English, the interior is dramatic, eclectic, and quirky, and whilst the furnishings are traditional, they have a distinctively modern twist to them. Guests generally take their afternoon tea in the flower-filled Drawing Room, but a small party of four to five people can also be seated in the conservatory. The terrace is a lovely option on a sunny day, and if you are a bigger party of eight to ten, then you can make an advance booking for the Library. The Drawing Room has a comfortable, cosy feel to it, and retains all the original features, including the large stone fireplace. But there is nothing Victorian about the furniture, which features stylish, contemporary, polished wood tables and elegant upholstered chairs. Begin with a complimentary glass of Taittinger Champagne, and choose your leaf tea from the menu or the additional list. Tuck into the deliciously light sandwiches, followed by scones with jam and clotted cream. To complete the treat, there is a selection of beautifully crafted dainty pastries, accompanied by a shot glass filled with a fruit soup, maybe mango, topped with a yogurt foam. The hotel puts on a lovely festive tea at Christmas, which is served from late November to late December, and in May, it’s worth looking out for their Chelsea Flower Show flower-inspired tea. It’s altogether a super place to have a really good, well-priced afternoon tea.

ADDRESS: 11 Cadogan Gardens, Chelsea, London SW3 2RJ

TEL: +44 (0)20 7730 7000

EMAIL:[email protected]

WEB:www.11cadogangardens.com

AFTERNOON TEA SERVED: daily 2.30pm–6.00pm

SET TEAS: champagne afternoon tea, seasonal special teas. Dietary requirements including vegetarian, vegan, and gluten free can be catered for; advance notice is preferred. Advance booking is highly recommended.

NEAREST UNDERGROUND STATIONS: Sloane Square

PLACES OF INTEREST NEARBY: Sloane Street shopping, Saatchi Gallery, Royal Hospital Chelsea, Ranelagh Gardens, Chelsea Physic Garden

THE AMPERSAND

Just minutes away from three of London’s most famous museums, the light and airy Drawing Rooms within Kensington’s Ampersand Hotel are the perfect place for an excellent afternoon tea inspired by the Science Museum. The stylish décor is a combination of English drawing room and salon de thé, with richly upholstered deep sofas and comfortable armchairs, and helpful, friendly staff will guide you through the menu and the teas on offer.

Rather than the usual sandwiches, the chef has come up with a super selection of delicious variations on the savoury course. Expect filled miniature gougère or generously topped bite-sized tartines, seasonal mini quiches, or tiny bagels or blinis topped with smoked salmon and avocado. Follow these with warm scones, both plain and studded with white chocolate, served with clotted cream and homemade strawberry jam, before you get to the pastries, which are the star turn and bound to entrance any children in your party. The Natural History Museum gets a nod here with the shortbread dinosaur biscuits, but science is the overriding theme, with changes to the menu made from time to time. There might be a Milky Way macaron or a chocolate mint planet, and you get to experiment with test tubes full of colored crystals, chocolate pearls, and toffee sauce, plus cocoa powder to dust over a biscuit and reveal a fossil. Add a glass of champagne for the ultimate treat. This is definitely one of the most entertaining teas in London, and bound to bring a smile to your face, whether you are nine or ninety.

ADDRESS: 10 Harrington Road, South Kensington, London SW7 3ER

TEL: +44 (0)20 7591 4414

EMAIL:[email protected]

WEB:www.ampersandhotel.com

AFTERNOON TEA SERVED: Monday to Friday 2.30pm–5.30pm, including bank holidays; weekends 12.30pm–5.30pm

SET TEAS: Science Afternoon Tea, Vegetarian Science Afternoon Tea. A gluten free alternative is available on request on the day.

NEAREST UNDERGROUND STATIONS: South Kensington

PLACES OF INTEREST NEARBY: Royal Albert Hall, Albert Memorial, Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, Serpentine Gallery, Victoria and Albert Museum, Science Museum, Natural History Museum, Christie’s Fine Art and Antiques, Harrods

White Chocolate Scones

Recipe courtesy The Ampersand

This recipe is from head pastry chef Sezwin Mascarenhas.

INGREDIENTS

• 600 g (4 ¾ cups + 1 Tbsp.) plain (all-purpose) flour

• 100 g (⅓ cup + 2 Tbsp.) caster (superfine granulated) sugar

• 20 g (1 Tbsp. + 2 tsp.) baking powder

• 2 g (⅓ tsp.) salt

• 150 g (⅔ cup) cold butter, diced

• 2 eggs (100 g/ ½ cup)

• 220 g (¾ cup + 2 Tbsp.) double cream (heavy cream)

• 200 g (1 cup + 2 Tbsp.) white chocolate baking chips

• Egg wash: lightly beaten egg yolk

METHOD

1. Preheat the oven to 180ºC (350ºF).

2. Lightly grease a baking sheet.

3. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and butter and, using the paddle attachment, pulse until the mixture resembles fine bread crumbs.

4. Whisk together the eggs and cream and slowly add to the flour mixture to get a soft dough.

5. Turn onto a floured work surface and knead very lightly. Pat out to a circular shape, about 2.5 cm (1 inch) thickness, and rest the dough for 2 hours in the refrigerator.

6. Use a 5 cm (2 inch) cutter to cut out rounds and place on a baking sheet not too close together. Lightly knead together the rest of the dough and cut out more scones to use up all the dough.

7. Brush the tops of the scones with the beaten egg yolk. Bake for 12 to 13 minutes until well risen and golden.

8. Cool on a wire rack and serve with strawberry jam and some clotted cream.

This recipe presents terms and measurements for both UK and US readers. Units are given first for UK readers in the original measurement units, then for US readers in converted units in parentheses. Do not mix the units. US equivalent terms are also given in parentheses where needed.

THE ATHENAEUM HOTEL

Situated in the heart of Mayfair, opposite Green Park, the Athenaeum Hotel is one of London’s few family-run five-star hotels, and a complete refurbishment has transformed it into an elegant, modern hotel that retains a home-away-from-home atmosphere. The famed Living Wall on the corner of the building has been extended, and the Michelin-starred Galvin brothers, Chris and Jeff, now head the kitchens. Afternoon tea can be served in the lounge, seated in the more formal Galvin restaurant, or in the comfy bar. Don’t be disconcerted by the large TV screen at the far end of this room – it shows major sports events such as Wimbledon and the World and Euro Cups, and when these are not around, you can catch up watching romantic, retro movies, making a connection with the earlier use of the building by the Rank Organisation. There is also an outside terrace on Piccadilly where you can sit and enjoy your tea while you watch the world go by.

The courteous staff take the greatest care of you, from describing the various menus, to helping you choose from the select list of artisan leaf teas, to serving you. Both the sweeter Classic and the Royal teas as well as the more savoury Gentleman’s tea showcase the country’s very best ingredients, including Cumbrian ham and fresh smoked salmon from Severn & Wye. Sandwiches have delicious and generous fillings on tasty breads, including beetroot, ‘pain de mie’, and onion, and are replenished as often as you like. The Royal menu features a bridge roll filled with Eggs ‘Drumkilbo’, a favourite of the late Queen Mother, which is a wonderful concoction of egg and tarragon bound in a lobster mayonnaise, then topped with crayfish and garnished with a sprig of chervil. There is a different selection of delectable pastries on each of the Classic and Royal teas. You can expect the likes of a macaron, delightful fairy cakes, Scottish shortbread, and miniature Eton Mess, with changes reflecting the seasons and produce of the year. Of course there are scones, both fruit and plain, with jolly good house-made preserves and clotted cream. The savoury tea – which of course is not just for gentlemen – has cheese scones with an Alsace bacon butter, a fruit-filled Eccles cake served with a wedge of Lincolnshire poacher cheese and chutney, a Scotch egg whose yolk is cooked to perfection (still slightly runny), a sausage roll

ADDRESS: 116 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 7BJ

TEL: +44 (0)20 7640 3333

EMAIL:[email protected]

WEB:www.athenaeumhotel.com

OFFERS: see www.afternoontea.co.uk/uk/london

AFTERNOON TEA SERVED: Monday to Saturday 12.30 noon–4.30pm, Sunday 12.30 noon–5.30pm. Advance booking advised, especially for the Gentleman’s Tea.

SET TEAS: classic, gluten and dairy free, Royal, Gentleman’s, occasional seasonal themed afternoon teas

NEAREST UNDERGROUND STATIONS: Green Park, Hyde Park Corner

PLACES OF INTEREST NEARBY: Buckingham Palace, Hyde Park, Green Park, Admiralty Arch, Royal Academy, Burlington Arcade