Plant-based Burgers E-Book

Jackie Kearney

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2022

Seitenzahl: 186

Beschreibung

Vegan fast-food is here to stay and never tasted so good with these stunningly inventive recipes for plant-based burgers, dogs, subs, wings and much more! While traditional butchers might be disappearing from the high street there's a new breed ready to slice a different kind of meat – made from plants! So-called 'vegetarian butchers' are creating food that mimics meat and offering convincing substitutes that look, feel and even taste like the real thing. Mock meat, of course, is nothing new. Burger patties made from soy-based protein and wheat gluten have been around since the 1960s but now vegetables, nuts, pulses and grains are in on the act and taking vegan substitutes for all our fast food favourites to a whole new level! But why buy over-processed and over-packaged meat-free products from supermarkets when you can make healthier, cheaper and equally delicious meat-free fast fixes at home? Prepare to be wowed by recipes for Easiest Vegan Burger Recipe Ever with Beet Ketchup, Hell Yeah Chilli Dogs, Baby Got No Beef Burrito, KFC-style Chkn Burger and even Tofish & Chips. Plant-Based Burgers is a fantastic new edition of the previously published Vegan Mock Meat Revolution.

Leseprobe

VEGAN

MOCK MEATREVOLUTION

JACKIE KEARNEY

VEGAN

MOCK MEATREVOLUTION

dElIcIoUs pLaNt-bAsEd rEcIpEs

pHoToGrApHy bY cLaRe wInFiElD

Dedication

To all the change makers.

Senior Designer Megan Smith

Design Assistance Emily Breen

Editor Miriam Catley

Production Manager Gordana Simakovic

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Publisher Cindy Richards

Food Stylists Emily Kydd & Jackie Kearney

Props Stylists Tony Hutchinson & Alexander Breeze

Indexer Vanessa Bird

Published in 2018 by

Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s

Fields London WC1R 4BW

and

341 East 116th Street

New York, NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © Jackie Kearney 2018

Design and photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2018 The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

ISBN 978-1-78879-026-0

EISBN 978-1-78879-450-3

A CIP record for this book is available from the Brisih Library. US Library of Congress CIP data has been applied for.

Printed in China

Notes

• Both British (Metric) and American (Imperial plus US cups) measurements are included in these recipes for your convenience, however it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

STORECUPBOARD INGREDIENTS

A FEW BASIC RECIPES

ASIAN STREET FOOD

FAUX FISH

FAST FOOD FAVOURITES

COMFORT FOOD CLASSICS

INDEX

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

INTRODUCTION

It’s time for a difficult discussion. I’m going to talk about meat in a vegan book.

For more than 30 years now I have heard the response, but why on earth would you want to eat meat-like food when you’re a vegetarian? Omnivores would look at me in complete disbelief and confusion; if you want it, just eat it! Even fellow veggies and vegans (more veggies than vegans as there weren’t so many vegans around back then) would sometimes look aghast; why would you WANT to recreate such a vile thing as flesh-like food? There appeared to be these two camps, and I fitted into neither.

As a child, I thought lamb chops with mint sauce were one of the most delicious things to eat on the planet. But as I got older, I became wholly and completely committed to not eating them simply because I didn’t (and don’t) want to eat sentient animals. I can understand how people may be repulsed by the idea of eating flesh, and that can lead them to become committed vegans and vegetarians. But the truth is, meat-eating doesn’t repulse me. I just choose not to.

But everyone’s reasons for wanting to eat more plant-based food are driven by many more complex and varied reasons other than simply not wanting to, or actually not liking it, or that eating meat or dairy makes them feel unwell. This only makes up a small proportion of plant-based eaters these days. Some describe themselves as flexitarian, pescatarian and meat-reducing. There are also diets driven by food intolerances and autoimmune responses, especially in relation to dairy and gluten. Tofu-based mock meats, such as the Vietnamese vegan ‘chicken ham’ and the versatile green jackfruit, make great gluten-free alternatives here. But for me, the reasons for mock meats need be no more complicated than simply drinking alcohol-free beer or wine. For whatever reasons, sometimes people simply choose not to.

Even just seven years ago, in one of the biggest moments of my cooking life, I pulled an ingredient from my own dish on MasterChef, because I believed another contestant who told me – you can’t serve that rubbish (a seitan-based mock duck) to John Torode, he’ll never forgive you. Believe me, it would have been the best vegan dish he’d ever eaten. My frustration at my own lack of confidence in that moment, is one of the reasons I’ve been so enamoured with my recent foodie trip across North America. The very thing Brits can be found criticizing them for, a sometimes bold and unapologetic attitude, was a wonderful thing when applied to food, especially vegan food. I wish I had been more bold and unapologetic with my food when I was on MasterChef – things could have turned out very differently!

But I did take that boldness forward, and I was one of the first veggie chefs to be serving green jackfruit and fried gluten (seitan) to the UK mainstream by 2011. The latter having been a kitchen staple for me since my early 20s. Back then, it was only ever the kind that came in a can and I soon learned you had to rinse the product really well in warm water to get rid of the overpowering flavour of the brine. But never one to throw the baby (or the gluten) out with the bathwater, I worked on sauces and found this to be a really adaptable product to all kinds of recipes. I remember serving a warm ‘duck’ salad at a party in 1994, and repeatedly responding to friends enquiries are you sure that’s not really meat?’

Plant-based proteins are vital to all of our diets, but especially those of us who do not consume meat or fish, or those who want to reduce consumption of animal-based protein. One of the great things about mock meats is the variation it provides in a more plant-based diet, for providing texture and flavour with great sources of protein. There is no doubt in my mind, plant-based alternatives will never substitute the bite of a real steak or lamb chop, or the complex flavours of seafood or bone broths – unless they are grown in a lab which is a whole other ballpark of discussion. But the idea of recreating texture and flavour without the use of animal products is far from a new one.

Some of the earliest documentation of mock meat, specifically the production of tofu as a meat substitute, can be found during the Han dynasty 206 BC–220 AD, which also coincides with some of the first recorded Buddhist scriptures and teachings being brought into China. Although Buddhism has experienced a sometimes violent history in China, it is also one of the main three religions and has shaped Chinese culture and the practice of zhai jie – the undertaking of a vegetarian fast. Buddhists practice zhai jie as a cleansing period for both mind and body, which is said to help increase our sense of compassion for everything around us. The change within ourselves is said to begin with a change in our eating habits. This vegetarian fast is often observed on Uposatha by many meat-eaters – a bit like Sabbath days in Christianity and Judaism or Ramadan in Islam, where people choose to intensify their practices and ethics. It is this wide-spread adoption of vegetarian eating, albeit on specific days, that gave rise to the proliferation of mock meat products in China.

Abstaining from eating meat for a specific period of time is also common in other countries in South East Asia, especially during the Nine Emperor Gods festival. This nine-day festival sees a proliferation of vegetarian food and is a joy to behold! My experience in Asian countries has been that products may be labelled vegetarian, but with the absence of dairy, many products are in fact vegan, it is simply that the term is far less widespread.

The social and environmental impacts of introducing more omnis to vegan meats is far greater than simply widening options for committed vegans. I want more people to enjoy more plant-based food, regardless of their other dietary choices. And I believe the mock meat revolution will help make the current rise in plant-based eating a more enduring phenomenon. I know this because I have seen hundreds of people’s reactions to eating ‘substitutes’ for the first time – well-made and delicious mock meat substitutions – and their response is always the same. ‘If I could eat vegan food that tasted like this, I would choose it more often’. And for me that is what will change the fate of our little blip of existence on this planet. The maths is simple. If two billion meat-eaters halved their consumption of meat dishes for plant-based dishes, the environmental impact would be future-changing. If we used that grazing land to produce grain proteins, it would feed many more people too.

Plant-based meats and grain proteins are the future of food, and I hope the recipes in this book go some way in introducing delicious mock meat recipes into everyone’s kitchen.

STORECUPBOARD INGREDIENTS

The focus of this section is to explain some of the less well-known ingredients that are useful in vegan cooking, especially in making mock meats.

ToFu/BeAn cUrD Originating in early China, tofu, or bean curd, is made from soy beans. The curdled soy milk is separated into curds and a whey-like liquid. The curds are compressed into blocks of tofu, and the liquid discarded. The tofu can be prepared in a variety of ways. Silken tofu, which is very slippery and soft, is good for poaching and makes a great egg replacement in baking. Medium and firm tofu is great for marinating, baking or frying. Smoked tofu is particularly delicious and along with plain tofu can be found in supermarkets, health food shops and Chinese or other East Asian grocery stores.

BeAn cUrD sHeEt/sKiN This is the skin that forms during the process of making tofu. The skin is harvested and packaged either fresh or dried into sheets. These sheets are sometimes dried and twisted into sticks, which can be marinated then baked or fried. The sheets are also used to make a popular mock meat known as Vietnamese vegan ‘chicken ham’.

TeMpEh Originating from Indonesia, tempeh is made from cultured soy beans. The beans are fermented and compressed into firm blocks or cakes. Tempeh retains the whole bean and is highly nutritious. It’s an important source of protein in South East Asia.

ViTaL wHeAt gLuTeN/sEiTaN This is a key ingredient in making many popular mock meat recipes. The wheat gluten is extracted from wheat flour and can be sourced from health food stores or websites, such as Shipton Mill or Real Foods. The fine flour is mixed with herbs and spices, along with other flavours and ingredients to create a dough that is cooked to form a textured grain-based protein.

NoRi This seaweed is extremely versatile and accessible. Mostly available in sheets for making sushi, they can be cut or chopped to the desired size. The seaweed can be crumbled into salt or directly into broths to add depth and flavour, especially when making faux fish recipes.

DuLsE This flavoursome seaweed is my current favourite. Readily available in the UK and Europe as it grows freely around our coasts. There are also some excellent producers, such as Irish Seaweeds or Cornish Seaweed. I also use a dried seaweed sprinkle mix for flavour-enhancing and a taste of the sea.

TaPiOcA sTaRcH This is similar to cornflour/cornstarch, however it has a more gelatinous and sticky nature. It can be used to set puddings or thicken sauces and custards. Readily available in health food stores or online from suppliers like Real Food.

NuTrItIoNaL YeAsT Nutritional yeast is de-activated yeast used as a flavour enhancer. It has a rich, cheese-like and slightly nutty taste and is often added as a cheese substitute in vegan recipes. It is also rich in B vitamins. Available in health food stores and online.

LiQuId sMoKe This can be found in a variety of flavours and is readily available in shops and online. I have a preference for hickory flavour in mock meat recipes. This smoked essence or extract is highly potent and just a few drops will bring a delicious smoky flavour.

DrIeD mUsHrOoMs A versatile ingredient and a fantastic flavour enhancer which also brings some meaty texture to recipes. I keep a stock of mixed wild mushrooms, Chinese, shiitake and porcini. A little goes a long way. You can make your own mushroom powder by grinding any dried variety in a spice grinder, then sprinkle into stocks and sauces.

A FEW BASIC RECIPES

This section covers some basic component recipes that are used in dishes elsewhere in this book. These techniques of mock meat making can be adapted in different ways for a variety of dishes so, once you’ve mastered them, get creative! The recipes can be made in larger batches and frozen.

MoCk SmOkY BaCoN

WeT mIx

2–3 tablespoons unflavoured coconut oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 small sun-dried tomatoes (in olive oil), finely chopped

2 bay leaves

5 g/⅛ oz. dried dulse seaweed, soaked and finely chopped (approx. 12 g/⅓ oz. soaked weight)

100 ml/⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon passata/strained tomatoes

110 ml/⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons good-quality vegetable stock

2 teaspoons sea salt

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

1 teaspoon hickory liquid smoke

2 tablespoons maple syrup

2 tablespoons soy sauce

DrY mIx

250 g/9 oz. wheat gluten

2 generous tablespoons chickpea/gram flour

2 tablespoons nutritional yeast

1 teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon garlic powder

2 teaspoons smoked paprika

⅓ teaspoon dried sage

PoAcHiNg mIx

2 litres/2 quarts vegetable stock

150 ml/⅔ cup cider vinegar

1 tablespoon coriander seeds, lightly toasted

1 tablespoon mustard seeds, lightly toasted

4 bay leaves

MaKeS 2 x 150 g/5¼ oZ. lOaVeS oR 1 x 300 g/10½ oZ. lOaF

Preheat the oven to 180˚C (350˚F) Gas 4.

For the wet mix, in a medium frying pan/skillet, add the coconut oil and place on a medium heat. Add the onion and fry gently for 6–7 minutes until translucent. Try not to colour. Add the sun-dried tomatoes, plus any residual olive oil, and the bay leaves, and fry gently for a few minutes. Add the remaining wet mix ingredients and bring to a simmer again. Cook gently for 4–5 minutes, then discard the bay leaves. Set aside to cool.

Place the dry mix ingredients in a large bowl and add the onion mixture from the pan. Mix well and knead the dough until it comes together.

Halve the dough, then roll into a long sausage shape, approximately 5 x 7.5 cm/2 x 3 inches. Wrap the doughs in well-oiled muslin/cheesecloths, rolling and then twisting and securing each end with a little twine. Lay the wrapped doughs in a large, deep oven pan. Pour the vegetable stock into the pan and add the other poaching ingredients. Cover the pan with foil and bake in the preheated oven for 1½ hours.

Remove from the oven and poaching liquid and set aside, still wrapped, to cool. Remove the muslin/cheesecloth. Slice into rashers or dice into ‘lardons’. The ‘bacon’ can now be fried, warmed or frozen.

AqUaFaBa ‘EgG’

This is simply chickpea water – the liquid from a can of chickpeas – that has taken on some of the protein from the chickpeas and forms an egg-white-like substitute. Some cooks use it to make meringue, but it’s highly unstable and you have to add an excessive amount of sugar to cover the flavour of chickpeas. However, it does make an excellent ingredient in savoury food.

The best aquafaba is where the water is drained and then boiled until it is reduced by half. The reduced liquid should then be chilled, where it will become quite gelatinous.

MoCk ChKn/HoMeMaDe SeItAn ChIcKeN

This is a great recipe for a flavourful chicken substitute that can be made into bite-sized pieces or adapted to make escalopes, nuggets or wings.

200 g/7 oz. vital wheat gluten

2 tablespoons nutritional yeast

1 tablespoon onion powder

1 teaspoon Herbamare seasoning

½ teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon dried marjoram

35 ml/2 tablespoons tahini

150 ml/⅔ cup vegetable stock

FoR tHe bRaIsInG pAn

1–1.5 litres/1 quart–6 cups plus 4 tablespoons vegetable stock

4 garlic cloves, slightly smashed

handful of fresh herbs, such as rosemary and/or thyme

flour, for dusting

MaKeS aPpRoX. 4 eScAlOpEs/20 wInGs

To prepare the mock chkn, mix together the dry ingredients in a medium bowl. In a jug/pitcher, mix together the tahini and stock. Make a well in the centre of the bowl, and pour in two thirds of the stock mixture. Combine the ingredients to make a stiff dough, adding more of the stock mixture as needed. The dough should be nice and firm. Knead well for a minute. Leave to rest for 5–10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 170˚C (325˚F) Gas 4. Prepare a braising pan by adding all the ingredients into a deep oven pan and place on middle shelf in the preheated oven for 10–15 minutes.

To mAkE cHkN ‘eScAlOpEs’

Place the dough on a well-floured surface and roll out to 2-cm/¾-inch thickness. To achieve an escalopedile shape, use a knife and slice the dough into 4 pieces. Roll and stretch these out to make a flattened shape. It is very springy to work with, so you may need to flatten the shapes again before baking.

To mAkE cHkN ‘wInGs’

Place the dough on a well-floured surface and roll out to 2-cm/¾-inch thickness. The shape doesn’t really matter, but to achieve a wing-like shape, use a heart- shaped cookie cutter, then make a small cut into the heart shape at the top. Press the dough down on the surface to flatten and shape. It can be very springy to work with, so you may need to flatten your wing shapes again before baking.

To mAkE cHkN ‘pIeCeS’

Place the dough on a well-floured surface and cut into 4 pieces. Roll each piece into a large sausage shape. Once the pieces have been cooked, as instructed below, the pieces can be cooled and chopped into bite-sized pieces to use in other recipes as a substitute for chicken. These pieces can also be minced/ground using a food processor. The minced/ground chkn can then be frozen for later use.

To cOoK tHe cHkN

Remove the braising pan from the oven and place the mock chkn into the pan. Cover with foil and bake in the preheated oven for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and then bake, uncovered, for a further 10–20 minutes (depending on size of the chkn pieces). Set the cooked mock chkn pieces on paper towels to drain, then serve.

ViEtNaMeSe VeGaN ‘ChIcKeN HaM’

This is a fantastic gluten-free recipe for making mock meat. The ready-made rolls are readily available in the freezer section of most Chinese or Vietnamese grocery stores, but they are also expensive and sometimes have egg added to them. This recipe uses fresh or dried bean curd sheets, which makes it very economical. The roll will freeze well after cooking too. I often make two or three rolls at the same time, and chop some into smaller pieces before freezing so I can add to stir frys, soups or make my crowd-pleasing vegan belly bits (see page 38).

1 x 200 g/7 oz. packet dried bean curd sheets/skins or 1 x 250 g/9 oz. fresh bean curd sheets/skins

¼ teaspoon bicarbonate of/baking soda

1 leek, tough dark green end removed, finely sliced

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 teaspoon white sugar (optional)

2 teaspoons mushroom powder/seasoning

1–2 fresh chillies/chiles, deseeded and chopped (optional)

1–2 garlic cloves, crushed (optional)

banana leaves or greaseproof paper twine

MaKeS oNe lArGe rOlL

Prepare the vegan ‘chicken ham’ by breaking up the bean curd sheets into a large deep pan, cover with water and add the bicarbonate of/baking soda. Stir well and bring to the boil. Simmer for 10–15 minutes until the sheets are well softened. Drain in a colander. Tip the bean curd out onto a board and finely chop. Return to the bowl one handful at a time, squeezing out any excess water.

In a frying pan/skillet, add the leek and vegetable oil. Place over a medium heat and cook for 6–7 minutes until well softened. Remove the leek from the pan and add to the bowl containing the bean curd along with the salt, pepper, sugar and mushroom powder/seasoning. You can also add other spices at this stage, such as chillies/chiles, garlic and whatever else you like.

Using a large pestle or blunt-ended rolling pin, mash the bean curd mixture to make a rough pulp.

Lay out the banana leaves or greaseproof paper, two or three pieces on top of each other, and place the mixture in the centre, making an oblong shape. Lift the longer sides and fold on top, pulling tightly like a parcel. Then fold up the ends, to make a snug fit. The roll should be approximately 12–15 cm/5–6 inches long and 5–7.5 cm/2–3 inches wide. If you prefer, you can make two smaller rolls, which can be easier to wrap and secure. Secure the package with twine, trimming any excess on the ends and tying like a parcel. Place the roll(s) into a steamer and cook for about 30–40 minutes.

Remove the vegan ‘chicken ham’ from the steamer and leave to cool, then unwrap and use as required. The ‘chicken ham’ can be wrapped and stored in the fridge for up to 5 days.

AsIaN

StReEt FoOd

I decided to start this book with Asian street food. Despite the catch-all title, it’s still the way I would describe the food that inspires me the most. Curries, dals, fried snacks, buns, skewers and big bowls of noodles. The street food of Asia is the food that lights my fire and makes me hungry at any time of day.

BuDdHa’s DeLiGhT

This is one of the first recipes that introduced me to ‘Buddhist meats’ over 25 years ago. This bowl of soup is one of the most popular vegetarian combinations in China.