Practical Weekend Projects for Woodworkers E-Book

Phillip Gardner

• Herausgeber: IMM Lifestyle Books
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2018

Seitenzahl: 282

Beschreibung

It's tough to find a great woodworking project that you can finish in just one weekend. But with the straightforward, step-by-step projects in this book, weekend woodworkers can stay busy for months! Weekend Projects for Woodworkers offers dozens of exciting projects for a range of beautiful contemporary items, from shelves and storage units to birdhouses and bookends. Each project is designed to be simple to make while having a really professional look, and can be made using either hand or power tools. With easy-to-follow instructions and how-to photographs, this book will provide practical advice and inspiration for both amateur and experienced woodworkers. Exploded diagrams and templates ensure precise results, and there's also a practical, illustrated reference section on tools, techniques, and wood choices.

Leseprobe

© 2018 by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc.

This book is a collection of previously published material. Portions of this book have been reproduced from The Weekend Woodworker (978-1‑55870-533-3, 1999) and Weekend Routing Projects (978-1-84537-776-2, 2006).

The patterns contained herein are copyrighted by the authors. Readers may make copies of these patterns for personal use. The patterns themselves, however, are not to be duplicated for resale or distribution under any circumstances. Any such copying is a violation of copyright law.

Print ISBN 978-1-5048-0106-5

eISBN 978-1-6076-5563-3

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Gardner, Phillip, author. | Standing, Andy, author.

Title: Practical weekend projects for woodworkers / Phillip Gardner, Andy Standing.

Description: Mount Joy : Fox Chapel Publishing, 2018. | Includes index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2018028290 | ISBN 9781504801065

Subjects: LCSH: House furnishings. | Woodwork.

Classification: LCC TT194 .G37 2018 | DDC 684/.08--dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018028290

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

This book has been published with the intent to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter within. While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the author and publisher expressly disclaim any responsibility for any errors, omissions, or adverse effects arising from the use or application of the information contained herein.

Project and studio photography: Edward Allwright

Step-by-step photography for Bookends, Mug Shelf, Table Lamp, Tray, Shoe Rack, Knife Block, Jewelry Box, Wastepaper Basket, Mirror, Side Table, Traditional Cupboard, and Paneled Coffee Table: Andy Standing

Illustrations for Kid’s Bed, Adirondack Chair, Shelf Unit, Bathroom Accessories, Console Table, Birdhouse, Single Wardrobe, Privacy Screen, “Waney” Shelves, Kitchen Accessories, Stackable Storage Units, Corner Cupboard, Picture Rail Shelf, Modernist Coffee Table, Mailbox, Vanity, Tall Storage Chest, Kitchen Sink Makeover, and Modernist Cupboard projects: Paul Griffin

Contents

Working Safely

Dust Extraction

Introduction

Tools, Equipment, Wood, and Hardware

Basic Woodworking Techniques

Projects for the Bedroom

Single Wardrobe

Mirror

Kid’s Bed

Jewelry Box

Tall Storage Chest

Privacy Screen

Projects for the Bathroom

Vanity

Bathroom Accessories

Projects for the Living Room, Office, or Hall

Side Table

Console Table

Bookends

Table Lamp

Wastepaper Basket

Shoe Rack

Tray

Paneled Coffee Table

Modernist Coffee Table

Projects for the Kitchen

Mug Shelf

Knife Block

Kitchen Accessories

Traditional Cupboard

Modernist Cupboard

Picture Rail Shelf

Kitchen Sink Makeover

Projects for Storage

Shelf Unit

“Waney” Shelves

Stackable Storage Units

Corner Cupboard

Projects for Outside

Adirondack Chair

Birdhouse

Mailbox

Templates

Working Safely

A basic health and safety kit (clockwise from bottom left): surgical gloves, respirator, push stick (for pushing wood through a circular saw or table‑mounted router), goggles, and earmuffs.

At all times be sure to follow any recommendations provided by tool manufacturers or rental shops regarding health and safety—garnished with some common sense, of course. Remember, we’re not going to be in your workshop to shout, “Don’t do that!”

Dust Extraction

Sawdust is a serious hazard for woodworkers. The image of the gray-haired craftsman toiling away in his workshop, up to his knees in shavings and sawdust, might evoke a romantic nostalgia, but the reality is rather different. Not only does sawdust make a terrible mess of your workshop, it can also affect your health. Inhaling the dust produced by hardwoods and manmade boards such as MDF will cause irritation and can lead to serious illness. Try to remove as much dust as possible at the source, by connecting your power tool to a dedicated workshop vacuum cleaner. These machines are specifically designed to cope with fine dust and also often incorporate features such as automatic switching, which means that the vacuum operation can be controlled with the power switch on the tool.

Introduction

This book is intended for both the novice “weekend carpenter” and those who have some basic skills and want to improve the scope and quality of their work. Hopefully, the newcomer will discover an insight into how to design and construct individual pieces of furniture for the home and garden—everything suggested as a project is both cost-effective and reasonably simple to achieve, using an absolute minimum of complicated joints or techniques—while more experienced readers will pick up ideas about contemporary design, which they can then adapt to more advanced working methods, should they wish.

While all the projects can be constructed exactly as the designs shown using the suggested methods and techniques, though not all the items will be to everybody’s requirements, and adaptations from the basics are always possible. It will be a fairly straightforward task to adjust the dimensions of the plans to suit your particular needs, but try to keep the proportions the same. Scale drawings or cardboard models can help to modify the designs, the easiest scale to work to being 1:10. Note that the measuring conventions used throughout the book are always length first, followed by width, and then thickness. Feel free to experiment with different kinds of wood, too, but remember to buy the best quality that you can afford, as it will greatly improve the finished piece.

On the following pages, you will find general information about materials and the tools you’ll need, as well as basic techniques—these will be invaluable to the newcomer, and a useful reference to the more experienced hobbyist. There follows more than 35 projects to make, from simple shelves and kitchenware to an ambitious chest of drawers.

For anyone who enjoys carpentry as a hobby, this book will hopefully come as a breath of fresh air, with pages and pages of contemporary and stylish furniture that you will love to have in your home, and that can be made in one weekend, or across several.

Difficulty Ratings

Ideal beginner’s project

Perfect for those who have some experience with woodworking

Ambitious projects that experienced carpenters will enjoy making

Tools, Equipment, Wood, and Hardware

Any hobby is going to entail the purchase of some equipment. You will have more success with woodworking if you work with wood that has been accurately cut to size and planed to a consistent thickness. To do this efficiently, you need the right tools.

The basic toolkit—a set of screwdrivers, hammer, electric drill, etc.— does not need to be explained in detail. Nevertheless, this chapter discusses the more specialized tools needed to complete some of the projects in this book.

Don’t fall into the common trap of finding tools so attractive that you buy ones for which you have no real need. Instead, build up a kit slowly, always buying the best quality and brand that you can afford.

Where to buy your tools also needs consideration. Flea markets and garage sales are good hunting grounds for bargain-priced secondhand tools, but rarely for new tools, since these tend to be low-quality imports or knockoffs. You need to have a reasonable knowledge of tools before buying in such places because there are no guarantees and defects may not be immediately apparent.

Large DIY stores have a wide range of reasonably priced tools, but for specialized, quality equipment you will need to visit a dedicated tool store, usually staffed by helpful, knowledgeable people. Many of the larger stores offer excellent online ordering. Buy tools from well-known manufacturers with a reputation for quality, since they will want to maintain that reputation.

Hand Tools

Measuring and Marking

Saws

Chisels, Gouges, and Screwdrivers

Hand Planes and Scrapers

Sharpening Stones, Clamps, and Hammers

Power Tools

Power Drill and Bits

Jigsaw

Circular Saw, Planer, and Power Sander

Biscuit Jointer and Grinder

The Router

Anatomy of a Router

Collectable Cutters

Cutter Types

Trial and Error and First Cuts

Removing a Cutter

Guiding the Router

Router Table

Wood and Hardware.

Lumber and Boards

Hardware

Adhesives

Hand Tools

These are rarely employed in professional workshops since the demands of productivity preclude their use. But for the cost-conscious weekend carpenter who may not have a lot of space, they are a sensible starting point.

Measuring and Marking

Marking and measuring tools should always be of the best quality. You will need a measuring tape and steel ruler for general measuring, and a sliding T-bevel for marking angles as well as a utility knife, marking gauge, and square. Always check the accuracy of a square; I have seen cheap versions of my 4 in. (100 mm) square with a blade inaccuracy of 1/32 in. (1 mm) over the short length of the blade. If you use a tool such as this, your work will never be true, and you will waste your time and materials.

As you grow in your woodworking abilities, further options would be a mortise gauge, a marking gauge, and some basic drafting tools such as a combination square, an adjustable set square, and a pair of compasses and dividers. Another extremely useful tool is the digital caliper, which will give you accurate measurements of wood thickness, rabbet depths, and so on. Finally, you will need an endless supply of sharp pencils.

Marking and measuring 1 pair of compasses, 2 dividers, 3 squares, 4 ruler, 5 knife, 6 sliding bevel, 7 marking gauge, 8 mortise gauge, 9 straightedge, 10 adjustable square, 11 digital caliper, 12 vernier gauge

Saws

A good basic collection of saws would consist of a crosscut or general-purpose saw, for cutting across the grain of wood (don’t buy the disposable “hard point” type because these saws are mainly for site work and cannot be sharpened), backsaw a.k.a. tenon saw (the better models of these have a brass back), coping saw for cutting curves, and a hacksaw for cutting metal.

Good additions to your kit would be a frame miter saw for angled cuts and, for fine work, a dovetail saw (a smaller version of a backsaw). Buy a miter saw that can cut compound miters—the additional expense is well worth it: one will pay for itself in terms of time saved and frustration avoided.

You might also want to try a pull saw. This, as its name suggests, cuts on the pull stroke. It is easy to use and leaves a fine finish.

Saws 1 crosscut saw, 2 backsaw, 3 hacksaw, 4 coping saw, 5 miter saw, 6 pull saw

Chisels, Gouges, and Screwdrivers

You will need a small set of chisels for squaring mortises and other purposes. They can be bought in sets and there are two types: bevel-edge and firmers. The more versatile bevel-edge chisel is a light tool that gives increased control and accuracy; the side bevels allow one to cut into tight corners.

Firmers are the chisels you hit with a mallet. The blade is far stronger and can be used in a robust manner. If you buy the “split-proof” variety, they can take repeated mallet blows with no damage.

Other additions to the toolkit include a gouge (for paring), which is just a chisel with a curved end, a mortise chisel (an extremely strong firmer chisel for removing the waste from a deep mortise), a wide range of screwdrivers, and an awl.

Chisels and screwdrivers 1 firmer chisels, 2 bevel edge chisels, 3 flathead screwdrivers, 4 awl, 5 Phillips screwdrivers, 6 gouge, 7 mortise chisel, 8 Yankee screwdriver

Hand Planes and Scrapers

A plane is needed to smooth the rough surface left by the saw, and also to prepare boards for jointing. Planes are maybe the most difficult hand tools for the novice to master. A common misconception about planes is that you can buy one, sharpen it, and then achieve the silky-smooth finish of the cabinetmaker in moments. You can’t. The plane is a precision tool made of finely calculated components, but to achieve the accuracy and ease of use you require, it will need even further refining. When a plane is made, the casting will be machined flat, but it is never truly flat. The blade also will have imperfections and will need polishing. These defects should be corrected and adjusted before any plane is used.

Planes and scrapers: 1 jack plane, 2 flat cabinet scraper, 3 shoulder plane, 4 smoothing plane, 5 gooseneck cabinet scraper, 6 spokeshave, 7 block plane

There are several basic types of plane. The jack plane, available in two widths, is used for achieving a flat, level surface quickly. The smoother, or smoothing plane, is a shorter version of a jack plane and is good for general use; buy one of these when you start working in hardwoods. The block plane is a small and incredibly useful item; the angle of the blade is shallower than other planes and this tool is essential for planing end grain.

The shoulder plane is good for cleaning up the shoulders of tenons. A spokeshave—used for shaping surfaces—is a tricky tool to use, and is unnecessary if you are planning to buy an electric belt sander.

Two cabinet scrapers are shown in the photograph below—flat and gooseneck. These are superb woodworking tools, essential for hardwoods, but they are quite difficult for the novice to sharpen, until suddenly one day, almost as if by magic, you get the hang of it.

Clamps: 1 bar clamp, 2 speed clamp, 3 webbing clamp, 4 F- and G-clamps

Sharpening Stones, Clamps, and Hammers

Of course, all these tools will need to be sharpened and maintained. You will need at least one good-quality sharpening stone, preferably an industrial diamond type.

A range of clamps will also be required—bar clamps for panels, speed clamps, webbing clamps for frames, and F- and G- clamps for all kinds of jobs—as well as a carpenter’s vise or a workbench of some description. A portable workbench is a good compromise for the latter, at least in the early days.

You’ll also want a medium-weight hammer and a pin hammer to cover your hammering needs. Use a mallet for driving chisels or persuading reluctant joints.

medium-weight hammer

pin hammer

mallet

Power Tools

Power tools, whether outlet-powered or cordless, do take a lot of the hard work out of woodwork. Most power tools can be rented by the week or the weekend. It is usually better to rent from a small, independent company because the big chains more frequently service large construction companies that tend to rent for long periods, and short-term rental often works out to be more expensive.

Power Drill and Bits

A power drill is a necessity; virtually every carpenter owns at least one. These can be either powered straight from the outlet or by battery. The latter is more expensive but much easier to use since you are not restricted to trailing lengths of cable. The minimum power required is 12 volts with a quick (one-hour) charge.

For each job, you will need a selection of drill bits. These are designed for masonry, metal, or wood and graduate in 1/32 in. (1 mm) increments. High-speed-steel bits, normally called HSS bits, are general-purpose bits, used for both wood and metal. “Spur” or wood bits have a flatter cutting profile with a small point or spur in the center. This locates the center of the drill and stops the bit from “wandering.”

Flat bits offer a crude but effective method for the drilling of larger-diameter holes when accuracy is not imperative.

Drill bits: the red case holds HSS twist drill bits, the gray case contains “spur” or wood bits. The remaining pieces include 1 multispeed bit, 2 hole cutter, 3 flat bits, 4 countersink bit, 5 masonry drill bit, 6 plug cutters.

A hole cutter is pricey, but accurate and longlasting; it will cut both wood and metal.

The multispeed bit is also quite expensive and is only really necessary if you envisage doing a lot of work with the same size drill, such as fitting cylinder locks.

Also of use are plug cutters, employed in the making of the Adirondack Chair here and the Duckboard here. A slightly better type with four cutters is also available, with the advantage of being self-centering.

Jigsaw

A jigsaw is an essential tool that can cope with many different jobs and materials due to the wide range of available blades. Buy one that has an electronic variable speed, giving greater control for curved cutting, and an adjustable pendulum cut—useful for ripping down the grain or coarse cutting of plywood. Another feature to look for is a method of clearing sawdust from the cut line, usually by blowing the dust away. Blades can be bought in mixed packs, but it’s best to just the types you need for a particular job, fine-toothed scrolling blades being a top choice. Carbon-steel blades are the best by far. The black plastic plate is a shield that fits over the metal shoe of the saw, preventing any scratching on lumber. The small clear plastic part is an anti-split device: because the jigsaw cuts on the up stroke, it can tear delicate lumbers or plywood when cutting across the grain; this plate, inserted around the blade, minimizes that effect.

The fine teeth of scrolling blades enable the jigsaw to be used for cutting elaborate curves. This model is fitted with a dust extractor adapter.

Jigsaw and circular saw

Circular Saw, Planer, and Power Sander

A circular saw and electric planer are good additions to the collection, but they are not an immediate necessity. A circular saw is ideal for dealing with long, straight cuts. A range of blades is available for the circular saw: crosscut, ripping, or combination. There is also a fine-finish blade, giving a quality of cut that just needs the barest planing subsequently. Always buy blades with tungsten tips.

Blades for a circular saw (left) are available in diameters from about 5 15/16–10 in. (150–256 mm). An electric plane is useful, but not essential for the newcomer.

Sanding machines will make the tedious aspects of carpentry—smoothing and polishing your projects— more bearable. There are three basic types: the belt sander, the palm or orbital sander, and a small triangular tool called a detail sander. If you are only going to buy one, choose a random orbital model because it is the most versatile. Orbital sanders come in a range of sizes and finishing capabilities; essentially, the smaller the circular motion of the sanding plate, the finer the finish. The belt sander above is fitted with a sanding frame, which allows regular removal of waste on a flat surface without “dishing.” It is an excellent attachment, but it doesn’t replace a plane! A detail sander (not shown) is useful for awkward access work.

An orbital sander (left) and a belt sander (right). Sanding sheets for both types appear below.

The strong edge-to-edge joints that can be achieved by using a biscuit jointer make the tool ideal for joining boards to make tabletops.

Biscuit Jointer and Grinder

Another time-saving device is a biscuit jointer. This is a small circular saw with a thicker than normal blade that cuts a groove to a predetermined depth. Small oval “biscuits” are then glued in the groove, bridging two adjoining pieces of lumber and providing a strong joint, either edge-to-edge, at right angles, or at any division of a right angle.

An electric grinding wheel, while not an essential item, will prove a boon when putting a hollow-ground edge on planes and chisels. Combined with a quality grinding jig, it will take any guesswork out of achieving razor-sharp tools.

Finally, there’s the router.

Planer

Random orbital sander

The Router

The router has—in recent years—been wholeheartedly embraced by the weekend woodworker. It is a sort of cross between a drill and a jigsaw, but on the other hand, like neither. It is actually a handheld version of a machine from the joiner’s shop called a spindle molder, with a chuck, like a drill, called a collet. Cutters are placed in the collet like a drill bit, the main difference being that once the cutter has entered the surface of the wood, you can move the tool and cutter in any direction. This enables you to cut channels through the middle of the wood or intricate moldings on the edges with superb accuracy.

While the router is often used as purely a means to machine decorative parts and edges, by far the most useful aspect for the weekend woodworker is its ability to cut precise joints every time, thereby overcoming a major skill barrier and allowing entry for all into the craft of woodworking. The array of cutters available will give you the capability to cut housings, rabbets, mortise and tenons, and dovetails—in fact, any of the simple joints used in this book.

Even though these tools have only recently started to have a huge impact on the hobbyist market, they have been in existence since the early 1900s. Consequently, the range of accessories and cutters is vast, with constant additions to both. This enables the weekend woodworker to have access to the sophisticated machining possibilities of the joiner’s shop, resulting in great savings of time and money. However, they can appear to be mysterious and intimidating machines. This chapter will help you to understand how the tool works and learn how to use it safely and effectively.

Routers are produced in a range of different sizes. The smallest, shown on the left, is easy to handle and economical to buy, though only powerful enough to cope with light jobs. The midsized model in the center is a versatile machine with a more powerful motor and sophisticated features, suitable for more sustained use. The machine on the right is a heavyweight tool with a ½ in. (12 mm) collet. It can cope with most jobs and is powerful enough to drive the largest cutters.

This router is a medium-size model with a fully adjustable fence. Also shown is a small range of cutters and guide bushes (to be used in conjunction with plywood templates).

Anatomy of a Router

Collectable Cutters

Once you start doing a lot of routing, you will find that you begin to amass a collection of cutters, which come in a huge range of sizes and designs to suit differing jobs and materials. It is usually a false economy to buy a set of cutters because they often contain designs that you will never use. Buy good cutters, but since they are expensive, buy them only as you need them.

The majority of cutters on the market are TCT—tipped with tungsten carbide—because they are extremely durable and can be used on a wide range of materials. They can also be sharpened in the workshop using a diamond hone. Cutters are also commonly made from high-speed steel (HSS), which are cheaper than TCT cutters and capable of taking a much sharper edge. However, they are more easily blunted than TCT cutters and cannot be used on abrasive lumber or man-made boards.

Keep in Mind

The cutter, fully exposed in most cases, rotates at a phenomenal speed. Take care and preferably use a plunge router, which allows the cutter to be withdrawn into the machine before and after each cut.

Cutter Types

Straight. These are parallel-sided cutters, usually with cutting edges both on the sides and the base. They are available in a variety of sizes, from a diameter of less than 1/16 in. (2 mm) to around 2 in. (50 mm). Straight cutters are used for a range of jobs, from jointing to inlaying, and are the most versatile type of cutter.

Jointing. These specialty tools are the most complex types of cutter, and can be used for producing cabinet doors and various other joints simply and easily. They are normally suitable for use only in a router table.

Edge-forming. These are used to mold and shape the edges of a workpiece, usually for decoration. They are often self-guiding.

Trimming. These are straight cutters with guide bearings that can be used to follow templates or trim laminates and veneers.

Trial and Error and First Cuts

If you are new to routing, practice with the various cutters you buy on a piece of scrap wood before using them in earnest, partly to get used to the feel, but also to see just what each type of cutter can do. When making a cut, use two or three passes. If the wood smokes or the tone of the router drops, you are trying to remove too much material in one pass; stop, raise the cutter a little, and try again. Always allow the router to achieve full speed before starting a cut, and never start a cut with the cutter up against the wood.

It is important to familiarize yourself with the way the router works. The cutter rotates in a clockwise direction when viewed from above.

This means that if you plunge the cutter into a workpiece and push the router away from you, it will pull to the left. The “direction of feed” should always be against the direction in which the cutter rotates. Therefore, when pushing the router, the side fence must be mounted on the right. The tip of the cutter should pull the lumber along; if you rout in the other direction, there is a danger of the lumber being pushed away from the cutter, resulting in an uneven cut and the potential of danger to yourself from the exposed cutter.

For your first attempt at routing, choose a simple task such as cutting a straight groove in a piece of softwood. Follow the steps below and take your time—before long you will be routing with confidence.

Clamp the workpiece firmly to the workbench, with its edge just overhanging the front. Draw a short pencil line parallel to the short edge and about 4 in. (100 mm) in.

With the power disconnected, stand the router upside down on the workbench and insert a straight cutter, ¼ in. (6 mm) in diameter. Make sure that at least three-quarters of the cutter shank is in the collet. Tighten securely with a spanner.

With the router upright, loosely fit the side fence to the righthand side.

Stand the disconnected router on the workpiece and plunge the bit so that it just touches the surface. Engage the plunge lock. Place the bit on the marked line and adjust the fence so that it is tight against the edge.

To set the cutting depth, leave the cutter touching the surface and wind the depth-adjusting rod down so that it touches the turret. If possible, zero the scale and then wind the rod back the desired amount, which in this case is 3/16 in. (4 mm). Lock the rod in place and release the plunge lock so that the router returns to the top of its travel.

You are now ready to make the cut. Before you do so, set the variable speed control to maximum (because you are using a small-diameter cutter), and check that all the adjustment screws are tight on the fence and depth adjuster. Connect the power and dust extractor.

Position the router at the beginning of the cut. Make sure that the fence is tight against the side of the workpiece. Grip the handles and start the motor. When it is up to full speed, plunge the cutter into the workpiece and engage the plunge lock. Push the router forward, making sure that the side fence is still against the edge. It will now cut a straight groove.

Removing a Cutter

To release the cutter the collet must be pulled out of the central shaft by the collet nut. This means that the collet nut effectively has to be loosened twice. Initial loosening releases the pressure on the lower shoulder of the collet, and the nut may be turned by hand. The collet remains held in the shaft, so the cutter cannot be removed. As the nut is loosened, it begins to get stiff again as it contacts the upper shoulder of the collet. A spanner is now needed: this time the nut will pull the collet from the tapered shaft, and it will then release its grip on the bit.

Get the Speed Right

Make sure that you move the tool at the optimum speed. If you move too slowly, the bit will overheat and there will be burn marks on the workpiece; too fast and the motor will strain and the cutting process will be difficult. With practice, you will soon get a feel for it. When you reach the end of the cut, release the plunge lock and let the cutter rise out of the workpiece. Turn off the motor and, once it has stopped, put the router aside.

Rules of Routing

Routing may look a little complicated, but that isn’t the case as long as you follow these simple rules:

• Protect yourself—use a dust extractor and wear safety glasses, earmuffs, and a dust mask.

• Make sure the workpiece is securely clamped to the bench before you start. Position any clamps so that they will not interfere with the router’s movement.

• Look after the cutters and keep them sharp. Always unplug the router before changing cutters.

• Never tighten the collet nut without a cutter fitted. This can cause serious damage to the collet, and may even break it, so always leave the nut loose.

• Plan your work carefully. Have a “dry run,” with the router switched off, to ensure that no problems arise.

• Use the variable speed function to suit the cutter and feed rate. Large cutters need slower speeds. Always set the cutter to the appropriate full speed before beginning your cut.

• Check all settings, and make sure that everything is tightened before starting work.

• Make several shallow cuts rather than one deep one. Never make a cut deeper than the diameter of the cutter you are using in one pass. For example, to make a groove 5/16 in. (8 mm) deep, make two passes each ⅛ in. (3 mm) deep, followed by a 1/16 in. (2 mm) pass. This puts less strain on the machine.

Guiding the Router

Aside from the type of cutter used, the router’s versatility stems from one other main factor: the method used to guide the machine. In detailed woodworking, the router must be steered precisely into the workpiece to produce accurate results. There are several methods of achieving this.

Side fence

Most routers have a removable side fence; the novice woodworker should always use it, since it’s the easiest way to guide the router. However, this will only work on straight edges, and its use is limited by the length of the mounting rods. Adding a second fence is a great help when cutting mortises on the edge of lumber, because it will stop the router from rocking from side to side.

Trammel bar

To cut circles or arcs, a trammel bar or circle-cutting jig can be used. These are ideal for shaping circular tabletops. 22 Practical Weekend Projects for Woodworkers

Guidebush

Another very common method is to use a template in conjunction with a guidebush. A selection of bushes is provided with better makes of router. Guidebushes are screwed to the underside of the router, with the cutter protruding through the bush. The outer edge of the guide bush is then held against the template, usually shaped from a small piece of plywood or MDF, allowing repeated shapes to be cut with accuracy.

Bearing-guided cutters

These cutters are self-guiding and will run along the edge of a shaped workpiece without needing a fence or any additional guide. They produce consistent results. When using one, you must go around it in a counterclockwise direction. However, when molding an internal edge such as a frame, go in a clockwise direction. This means that you are feeding the work against the direction of bit rotation, making the machine bite into the lumber and push back against the operator. If you try to reverse these directions, the machine will be pulling away from you all the time. This makes the router dangerous and difficult to control, particularly if using large-diameter cutters.

Freehand

Some woodworkers can, after considerable practice, use a router freehand for operations such as carving letters or decorative features, much in the same way a jigsaw can be used. This is something that will help develop your control of the router. Use a V-groove cutter on a piece of scrap wood and make a shallow cut. Observe how the cutter tries to pull the router off-line and how the grain pattern affects this.

Guide batten

For cutting housings and grooves in the center of boards, a guide batten (or a pair of battens) clamped to the surface may be used. The router baseplate can be run along the side of the batten or sandwiched between a pair of battens, so there is no chance of it wandering off-line.

Router Table

Once equipped with a router and some good quality cutters, you might wish to invest in a routertable—it is probably the most useful accessory that you can get for your router. In fact there are situations where the router needs to be mounted in a specially made router table. The router is mounted under the table with the cutter protruding above the table, allowing the lumber to be manually pushed past the cutter. This will allow you to use the larger jointing and molding cutters, provided that you have a powerful enough router, and also to undertake operations that are either difficult or dangerous to attempt using a handheld router.

Look for router table of sturdy construction with a comprehensive instruction manual. A good router table must have a flat and supportive surface, the larger the better, and a sturdy fence. A sliding miter fence is also useful, especially for molding end grain.

Setting the depth of cut can be a problem, because, since the router is inverted, the power of the return springs and gravity both work against you. A fine height adjuster can be fitted to your router to ease these difficulties. For safety reasons, a separate power switch should be attached to the front of the table in a convenient position so that the router can be easily controlled. The machine’s own power switch should be permanently fixed in the “on” position when table-mounted.

Like routers, there are many designs of router table on the market. The main requirements are that the table and fence should be strong and sturdy.

The direction of the feed is important

Wood and Hardware

Lumber and Boards

Essentially there are two types of lumber: softwood and hardwood. Hardwood is by far the more expensive, but for some furniture it is the only realistic material. Softwood includes the various species of pine and is sold in a vast array of stock sizes and qualities. It is sold as either “sawn”—unfinished and rough—or S4S (“surfaced,” or planed, on all four sides). The size quoted is always of the rough lumber before it was planed. When the lumber has been planed on all four faces to achieve the S4S state, the section has been reduced by about 3/16 in. (5 mm) in both directions; 2 × 2 in. (50 × 50 mm) S4S is, in fact, about 1 ¾ × 1 ¾ in. (45 × 45 mm). Only buy sawn lumber if you want to feature the rough finish, as with the Corner Cupboard here.

For simple tasks, such as the Kid’s Bed here