Real Mexican Food - Ben Fordham - E-Book

Real Mexican Food E-Book

Ben Fordham

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Beschreibung

Fresh, authentic and delicious recipes appealing to lovers of Mexican food. From the sea-influenced dishes of the beaches of Baja and Cancun, to the cowboy/vaquero influenced cuisine of the El Norte region, Mexico has an amazing variety of vibrant flavours to offer. All of this rich culinary culture has inspired Benito's Hat's delicious burritos, tacos, soups and salads. This cookbook, created by Ben Fordham and Mexican chef Felipe, offers not only their favourite dishes, but many more delights from Felipe's own collection of family recipes. These dishes cater for vegetarians and meat eaters alike, as well as both the newcomers to Mexican food and the seasoned veterans. You'll find Starters; Soups & Salads; Main Dishes; Side Dishes; Salsas; Desserts; and Drinks. Mouth-watering recipes include guacamole with homemade corn tortilla chips, chicken quesadillas, tofu tacos, pork tamales, refried pinto beans with paprika, Mexican flan, ice cold margaritas and refreshing non-alcoholic juices.

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REAL

Mexican

FOOD

REAL

Mexican

FOOD

AUTHENTIC RECIPES FOR BURRITOS, TACOS, SALSAS & MORE

BEN FORDHAM & FELIPE FUENTES CRUZ

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER CASSIDY

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

BEN FORDHAM opened Benito’s Hat, a Mexican bar and kitchen, on Goodge Street in 2008. His dream to open a Mexican restaurant began when he lived in Texas and he discovered real Mexican food. From hole-in-the-wall canteens with plastic chairs to fine-dining restaurants, it was all a far cry from what was then being served up in London as Mexican food, but it was particularly the simple, fresh burrito and taco bars that Ben thought London was crying out for. From that point on he began the plan to bring authentic, good-quality, fresh food to his home town at a reasonable price. Ben started moonlighting at a Mexican restaurant while continuing his legal career and shortly afterwards he met Felipe, who had the same dream of bringing great Mexican food to London.

FELIPE FUENTES CRUZ was born in Puebla, Mexico. He and his eight brothers and sisters often had to lend his mother and grandmother a hand when it came to putting food on the table. At 19, he emigrated to the USA where he began his restaurant life. In 2006, he came to London, via a stint in Barcelona, and a year later, Felipe was working in a Mexican restaurant when Ben walked in. They instantly found common ground in their passion for Mexican food.

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER

PETER CASSIDY is one of Europe’s most talented photographers. He specializes in food and travel and his work frequently appears in magazines. For Ryland Peters & Small, he has photographed many books including, most recently, The ScandiKitchen: Midsommar.

DEDICATION

We would like to dedicate this book to our families: Siobhan, Ferran and Yasmin, and Kay Lee, Penelope and Beatrice.

SENIOR DESIGNER Megan Smith

COMMISSIONING EDITOR Céline Hughes

HEAD OF PRODUCTION Patricia Harrington

ART DIRECTOR Leslie Harrington

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Julia Charles

PROP STYLIST Tony Hutchinson

INDEXER Hilary Bird

First published in 2012

This updated edition published in 2022

by Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields,

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 E 116th St

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © Ben Fordham and Felipe Fuentes Cruz 2022

Design and photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2022

ISBN: 978-1-78879-438-1

eISBN: 978-1-78879-462-6

Printed and bound in China

The authors’ moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

US Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data has been applied for.

NOTES

• All spoon measurements are level, unless otherwise specified.

• Recipes containing raw or partially cooked egg, or raw fish or shellfish, should not be served to the very young, very old, anyone with a compromised immune system or pregnant women.

contents

introduction

the mexican pantry

antojitos snacks & starters

sopas y ensaladas soups & salads

platillos fuertes main dishes

para acompañar side dishes

salsas salsas

postres desserts

bebidas drinks

suppliers & stockists

index

acknowledgments

Introduction

This book and the Benito’s Hat restaurants were born out of mine and Felipe’s passion to bring fantastic, simple Mexican food to the British people. From the day we opened our first Hat in July 2008, we stayed true to our belief in the importance of quality ingredients and cooking everything fresh every day. A visit to Benito’s Hat takes your taste buds on a journey from the palm-fringed beaches and turquoise waves of Puerto Vallarta to the bustling heart of Mexico City for a fast, fresh and affordable feast like no other. This book will allow you to make that journey in the comfort of your own home, with a deliberately wide variety of recipes. Some recipes, like the Elote Asado (page 23), are a lesson in simplicity, while others, like the Chiles en Nogada (page 74), require patience and precision, so hopefully you will find something to suit every occasion.

Felipe’s education in Mexican food began in his grandmother’s kitchen. Since then he has worked in restaurant kitchens in California, Barcelona and London. He has gained in experience and technique every step of the way and has developed his own style of unique cooking that is a true melting pot of all the influences that he has come across on his wonderful culinary journey.

While my love of cooking and food also began at home, I came to appreciate Mexican food relatively late on. A year spent studying in Austin, Texas showed me the huge gulf between what was available there and what passed for Mexican food in the UK. That year I fell in love with the lady who is now my wife and also with the vibrant, fresh flavours that are at the heart of Mexican cooking.

Benito’s Hat set itself apart from the other Latin American restaurants in the UK with our Puebla-born chef, Felipe, at the helm of the kitchen. Inspired by his native country’s famous street food, zingy flavours and rich culinary culture, Felipe has created a menu featuring freshly made burritos, tacos, soups and salads. Authentic recipes for marinades, salsas and beans are given a modern and unique twist by Felipe. On the following pages, Felipe and I give away some of the secrets of the restaurant as well many more recipes that Felipe has developed over 30 years spent in Mexican kitchens.

Tequilas containing barely 50% agave and pre-made lime-juice mixes do not a good margarita make! Here we encourage you to use Tequila made with 100% blue agave and freshly squeezed lime juice as a classic margarita base from which you can create many different delicious cocktails exactly to your taste.

Those of you who already love Mexican food will find new and exciting recipes in the pages of this book. Mexico’s food varies from region to region and, as we have already said, Felipe’s cooking has taken on influences from many places, so we are sure that even those of you who are very familiar with its cuisine will find things here to surprise and delight you. Those of you who are new to cooking it, please put aside any preconceptions you might have and embrace the beautiful flavours and combinations that this wonderful country and its cuisine have to offer.

Ben Fordham

The Mexican pantry

AVOCADO (SEE ALSO PAGE 103)

Where to start with the wonderful avocado?

It contains nearly 20 vitamins and nutrients such as potassium, which helps to relieve high blood pressure. It is also super rich in monounsaturated fats (the good ones).

CORIANDER/CILANTRO (SEE ALSO PAGE 107)

This plant is grown throughout the world and is used both as a herb, through the fresh leaves, and as a spice, by its seeds. The leaves impart a wonderful citrus and even minty flavour to dishes but, beware, it is a herb that divides opinion.

LIMES

The balance of citrus and spice is at the heart of Mexican cooking. Fresh lime juice can be used equally to cut the sweetness in desserts or bring out the individual flavours in a spicy salsa.

TOMATOES

Walk into any vegetable market in Mexico and you will see more varieties of tomato than you can count. Whether you are going for the standard plum or the rippled kidney tomato, give it a good smell before buying and you will know instantly if you are getting something flavourful and fresh.

QUESO FRESCO

This creamy, soft cheese originated in Spain and travelled to Mexico with the earlier settlers. We have used feta as an alternative in several recipes here but if you prefer something milder then Indian paneer is a good bet.

CHILLIES (SEE ALSO PAGE 36)

These are the stars of Mexican cuisine and an essential part of the Mexican diet. The level of heat depends on the concentration of a substance called capsaicin. The most developed species in Mexico is Capsicum Annuum, which includes many varieties ranging in colour, shape, flavour and heat.

JALAPEÑOS (SEE ALSO PAGE 92)

Originally from the Mexican city of Xalapa, Jalapeños can reach up to 7 cm/2¾ inches long and 3 cm/ 1¼ inches wide at the base. It is a hot chilli but the intensity of the heat can vary widely depending on the terrain and variety of seed.

CHIPOTLE CHILLIES

These are dried, smoked Jalapeños. The name comes from the Nahuatl word “chilpoctli” which means “smoked chilli”. They are often found preserved in a sweet adobo sauce or in a paste.

HABANERO CHILLIES

These are serious chillies that really pack a punch. Scotch Bonnets are a different variety of the same species, so they work very well as a substitute.

GUAJILLO CHILLIES

These are not hot but have a delicate fruity flavour. They are dried and made from Mirasol chillies.

TOMATILLOS (SEE ALSO PAGE 104)

Similar to a tomato with a unique tart flavour that is a wonderful addition to many salsas, the fruit is green or purple and surrounded by a papery skin.

CORN

The plant is native to the Americas and was only introduced to Europe in the 17th century. Its origin is said to be the Tehuacán Valley in Mexico which was the heart of the Aztec civilization. It therefore became an integral part of the people’s diet.

POMEGRANATE

The look of the bright red seeds of this fruit are reason enough to use them, but they also add a sweetness to citrus salads and some meats.

ALSO ESSENTIAL

garlic, onion, fresh ginger, Chiles de Arbol, Serrano chillies, Ancho chillies, sour cream, mango, watermelon, plantain

BEANS

Whether black (turtle) or pinto, beans are a staple of the Mexican diet. They are a great source of protein, fibre and iron. Use them as a side, or beef them up with some fatty cuts of pork and a little heat to make them a meal in their own right.

MASA HARINA

This flour is the product of grinding dried field corn or maize. It forms the base of corn tortillas, as well as being the core ingredient in many sauces.

AVOCADO LEAVES (SEE ALSO PAGE 85)

The avocado tree is known almost everywhere in the world because of its fruit, but the leaves are a wonderful, aromatic addition to many dishes too. The dried leaves give off a smell similar to anise and go well with beans and some stewed meats.

PAPRIKA

This spice is made from grinding together sweet/ bell and chilli peppers, so whether it has heat or not depends on the variety you choose. It is used both for its flavour and its deep red colour.

OREGANO

This is a gentle herb that adds a clean, fresh flavour to dishes. For the recipes in this book, we recommend dried Mexican oregano, which has a slightly stronger flavour. It can also be used as a substitute for the harder-to-find epazote.

AGAVE SYRUP (SEE ALSO PAGE 132)

This syrup, or nectar, comes from the sap obtained from the stalk of the agave plant. It is commonly used as a substitute for sugar but its primary purpose in life is for margaritas!

PUMPKIN AND PUMPKIN SEEDS

Using the delicious, buttery flesh of a pumpkin as well as the seeds inside is very satisfying. The two go very well together, as the earthiness of the seeds contrasts beautifully with the delicate flesh. If you are scooping the seeds yourself, wash and dry them thoroughly before using.

MONTEREY JACK CHEESE

This semi-hard cheese has become the standard burrito cheese throughout the world. Its origins are shrouded in debate, but it is likely to have been brought to Monterey, California by Franciscan friars from Spain, via Mexico, in the 1700s.

RICE

Rice is a staple of many Mexican meals. I find that basmati rice is easy to cook and takes on other flavours well.

TEQUILA (SEE ALSO PAGE 135)

This “happy” spirit comes from the region of Jalisco. It is made from the fermented and distilled juice of the agave plant, in particular the blue agave. It is the best known and most representative drink of Mexico in the world. To be called Tequila, the drink must be made in Mexico and contain at least 51% sugars from the agave, but we wouldn’t recommend anything except 100% agave.

TORTILLAS

Tortillas are the bread of Mexico. These soft, pillowy delights have been ruined by supermarkets the world over but make yourself a delicate corn tortilla (see page 12) and it will lift any dish.

CINNAMON (SEE ALSO PAGE 114)

Cinnamon has a sweet, woody and spicy flavour. It is native to Sri Lanka but the Mexican version is slightly sweeter.

TAMARIND (SEE ALSO PAGE 129)

Tamarind is a tropical tree, native to eastern Africa but that now exists in much of tropical Asia and Latin America. In Mexico it is grown widely in the states of Michoacán, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Chiapas and even Yucatán, where it is known as “pah-ch'uuk”. It has long been an important part of the traditional diet.

ALSO ESSENTIAL

sesame seeds, cloves, evaporated milk, condensed milk, hibiscus flowers (see page 129), Mexican chorizo, epazote (see page 96)

How to make corn tortillas

I grew up watching my grandmother and mother make fresh tortillas every day. They passed on their knowledge and love to me and my family and I hope to do the same with my children. Storebought tortillas are improving all the time, but they can never compete with homemade ones.

300 g/2 cups masa harina

300 ml/1¼ cups warm water

¼ teaspoon sea salt

clean plastic bag

tortilla press (optional; see page 19)

MAKES 10 X 8-CM/3¼-IN. TORTILLAS

1 Put the masa harina, water and salt in a mixing bowl and mix well for 5 minutes. Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces and roll into balls.

2 Place one ball of dough in the middle of the plastic bag and place in the middle of the open tortilla press, if using.

3