Rice & Grains - Kathy Kordalis - E-Book

Rice & Grains E-Book

Kathy Kordalis

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Beschreibung

Enjoy rice and other grains everyday with more than 70 deliciously innovative recipes that showcase and celebrate these versatile and nourishing foods. A huge variety of cereal crops are grown throughout the world. Grains are the seeds of these plants. The entire grain or 'wholegrain' is made up of three elements, a fibre-rich outer layer, the bran; a nutrient-packed inner part, the germ; and a central starchy part, the endosperm. The most familiar grain is perhaps rice, and types of rice include long-grain, short-grain, easy cook (par-boiled) and brown (wholegrain), but why not discover all the speciality varieties out there too? Basmati, Jasmine, Japonica, Bomba, Originario, Arborio and Carnaroli (to name just a few!) all have a unique texture and flavour and can be used in a myriad of interesting ways. Other grains used in these exciting recipes include Amaranth, Barley, Buckwheat, Bulghur, Corn, Farro, Kamut, Millet, Oats, Quinoa, Rye and Spelt. Kathy's recipes take their inspiration from a wide range of global cooking styles and influences. Choose from a selection of small plates, bowl food, larger plates, sharing platters, bakes and even extras for your pantry, such as home-made milks, grainy crispbreads, healthy condiments and dressings.

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Rice &Grains

KATHY KORDALIS

Rice &Grains

MORE THAN 70 DELICIOUS & NOURISHING RECIPES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MOWIE KAY

DEDICATION

For Matthew

Senior Designer Megan Smith

Editor Gillian Haslam

Head of Production Patricia Harrington

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Publisher Cindy Richards

Food Stylist Kathy Kordalis

Prop Stylist Lauren Miller

Indexer Hilary Bird

Published in 2022

by Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 E 116th St

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

Text copyright © Kathy Kordalis 2022

Design and photographs copyright

© Ryland Peters & Small 2022

ISBN: 978-1-78879-429-9

eISBN: 978-1-78879-454-1

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

Printed and bound in China.

CIP data from the Library of Congress has been applied for.

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

NOTES

• Both British (metric) and American (imperial plus US cups) measurements are included for your convenience; however, it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer.

• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

Contents

INTRODUCTION

Breakfast

Small Plates

Bowls

Larger Plates

Sharing Platters

Sweet Things

Index

Acknowledgements

Introduction

Versatile, nutritious and the true grit of any meal, rice and grains can be the main event, a great side dish and beautiful in baking. Everyone has a story about how they enjoy a gorgeous bowl of porridge or a steaming sticky rice, which toppings they prefer and what they like to serve it in – it’s about comfort and nourishment. But this book will take you way beyond breakfast and rice bowls, to elegantly simple small plates that make the perfect appetizer, quick-fix larger plates for a midweek family meal, or sharing platters to help you celebrate any occasion in style with friends. You will find all this, plus some great recipes for baking with grains and making satisfying extras for your pantry such as home-made oat milk, everyday loaves and crispbreads.

The world of grains is a huge topic when you consider all the different types of rice that are consumed the world over, as well as the wealth of cereal grains and seeds that have sustained us since crops were first cultivated and plants foraged. I’ve focused on the most readily available grains so you can easily shop at your local convenience store, supermarket and food hall or raid your own store-cupboard at home. A little background on the origins and some basic nutritional facts is provided but, for me, the most important thing is how they taste. This is not a nutritionist’s companion, my book is simply intended to inspire you to create more vibrant rice and grain dishes in your kitchen. It’s a book for people who love life and good food and my recipes aim to elevate these ancient and humble ingredients in a modern and light way. Enjoy!

Rice

Rice is the second most widely cultivated grain in the world and a staple in China, India, South-east Asia, Africa and Latin America. There are thousands of varieties of rice. In the world’s major rice-growing areas each paddy field will yield it’s own particular strain. In the West however we classify rice by the length of its grain; a sensible classification since, as a rule, the grain length determines how it should be cooked and whether it is suitable for sweet or savoury dishes. It is always cooked before eating and also made into flour, flaked, toasted and puffed.

There are a number of ways of cooking rice. Some types, benefit from being rinsed in cold water, while others should be left to soak before cooking. Rinsing is suitable for most types of rice. It helps to remove excess starch and any dust that may have accumulated during storage. If you rinse rice which is to be in a dish where it is fried at the beginning of the recipe, be sure to drain it thoroughly first. Soaking is suitable for basmati, brown basmati, glutinous rice and sometimes white long grain, brown long grain, short grain rice and Thai fragrant (jasmine) rice. It is seldom essential but it does increase the moisture content of the grains, which means the rice will cook more quickly and will be less sticky. Soaking is particularly beneficial for basmati rice; less so for Thai fragrant (jasmine) rice, in which a slight stickiness is desired. Risotto rice, of course, must never be soaked, as this would spoil the characteristic texture. Occasionally, rice that has been soaked will be fried; if this is the case, drain it well first, as you would rinsed rice.

LONG GRAIN RICES

White Long Grain Rice; Brown Long Grain Rice;

White Basmati Rice; Brown Basmati Rice; Thai Fragrant (Jasmine) Rice

This type of rice is three or four times as long as it is wide, and when cooked, the individual grains separate. Long grain rice is used for savoury dishes.

SHORT GRAIN RICES

Italian (Risotto) Rice; Spanish (Paella) Rice; Pudding Rice

Also known as round grain rice, short grain rice is used almost exclusively for making desserts. However, some short grain rices should, perhaps, be properly be described as medium grain, as their size is somewhere between pudding rice and long grain rice. These are usually used in savoury dishes requiring a creamy texture, notably Italian risotto rices such as Arborio and the short grain Valencian rice from Spain mostly known for its use in paella.

GLUTINOUS RICES

Chinese Black Rice; Japanese (Sushi) Rice

There are several types of glutinous rice that are very popular in Asian cooking. The name is misleading as the grain actually contains no gluten, but they are noted for the way they stick together after cooking. Often known as sticky rice, black and white glutinous rices are normally used to make desserts.

WILD RICES

Wild Rice; Camargue (Red) Rice

These are not really rices at all, but aquatic grasses that grow in marshy areas around the North American Great Lakes. The ‘rice’ was once a favourite food of the Native Americans. It is quite expensive to buy so is often served mixed with long grain rice, which also gives it a gentler and more even flavour.

See pages 10-11

Cereal Grains

Cereal grains have been cultivated throughout the world for centuries. The most popular types of grain such as rice (see page 8), wheat, oats, corn and rye come in various forms, from wholegrains to flours. They all form a hugely important part of our diet, whether eaten in bread, pasta or noodles, baked into cakes or cookies, or (ideally), enjoyed in a less processed form. In recent years, we have been enjoying a wider range of wholegrains as part of a move towards a healthier diet, whether that is rediscovering more nutritious ancient grains (such as spelt) or gluten-free alternatives to wheat (such as quinoa and amaranth).

WHEAT

Wheat Berries; Cracked Wheat; Bulgur; Wheat Flakes;

Wheat Germ; Bran; Semolina

This is the largest and most important grain crop in the world and it has been cultivated since 7,000 BC. The wheat kernel comprises three parts: the bran, the germ and the endosperm. Wheat bran is the outer husk, while wheat germ is the nutritious seed from which the plant grows. Wheat Berries are the whole wheat grains with the husks removed. Cracked wheat is made from crushed wheat berries – often confused with bulgur and retains all the nutrients from whole wheat. Wheat is very important nutrionally as it is an important source of complex carbohydrates, protein, vitamins and minerals. It is most nutritious when it is unprocessed and in its whole form. It is an excellent source of dietary fibre and is rich in B vitamins and vitamin E, as well as iron, zinc and selenium.

OATS

Rolled/Old-fashioned Oats; Jumbo Oats; Oatmeal; Whole Oats; Oat Bran

The most beloved of all cereal whole grains, oats are almost never refined, which means they retain all three of its original, edible parts – the bran layer, full of fibre and B vitamins; the germ, rich in healthy oils and other nutrients; and the starchy endosperm. They also contain a heart-protective starch called beta-glucan that can help lower high cholesterol. Available rolled, flaked, as porridge (oatmeal) or oat bran, oats are warming and sustaining.

CORN (MAIZE)

Cornmeal; Polenta; Hominy; Popcorn: Grits

A staple crop in South and Central America, corn is grown in Europe, but as it needs more sunshine than wheat it grows best in the more Southerly parts, such as Italy. It is processed to produce many different products including, whole grains, flour and meal. Coarse ground cornmeal is used for polenta (see page 9), finer grinds are used for breadmaking. It is believed to be the only grain to contain vitamin A. It is also the source of some B vitamins, vitamin C and iron.

RYE

Rye Grain; Rye Flakes; Rye Flour

Rye is a hardy grain that can grow where most others fail. It is the most popular grain for bread-making in many parts of Northern and Eastern Europe, Russia and Scandinavia. It produces dark, dense and dry breads that keep well, as well as crispbreads. Rye is a good source of vitamin E and some B vitamins, as well as protein, calcium, iron, phosphorus and potassium, and is high in fibre.

See pages 12–13

Types of Rice

white long grain rice

This is the most commonly available white rice. It has been fully milled, in other words, all of the bran and outer coating have been removed. The grains are white and slightly shiny. It doesn’t have the flavour of basmati or Thai fragrant, rice, but remains a good all-rounder and a firm favourite.

brown long grain rice

Sometimes called ‘whole rice’, this is the rice equivalent of wholemeal (whole-wheat) bread, complete with the bran. It has an almost nutty flavour.

italian (risotto) rice

A large quantity and variety of rice is produced in Italy. Most is grown in the Po Valley. The rice is classified by size, ranging from the shortest, ordinario, to superfino. Most of the risotto rices are fino and superfino varieties. Arborio is one of the best-known Italian risotto rices. Unlike the finer risotto rices such as carnaroli, arborio has a comparatively large, plump grain. Risotto rice is available both white and brown.

spanish (paella) rice

Rice is grown extensively in Spain, particularly in the swampy regions outside Valencia. The most common is a medium short grain variety with a slightly sticky consistency when cooked and is used for paella. Bomba is a plump paella rice which, like Italian risotto rice, absorbs liquid. Calasperra is another top-quality short grain Spanish variety.

pudding rice

This is a short grain white rice, particularly suitable for slow-cooked milky puddings as the grains swell and absorb a lot of liquid The rice becomes soft and sticky, giving a deliciously smooth and creamy texture.

camargue (red) rice

Often referred to as ‘red rice’, this nutty rice is grown in the Camargue region of France. It came about as a result of cross-pollination between local white rice and an indigenous wild red rice. Uncooked it is a reddish-brown, much like brown rice, however as it cooks the red intensifies.

chinese black rice

Also known as ‘forbidden rice’, this highly-prized variety of black long-grain rice is grown in China. Once cooked, it turns a purple colour and develops a stickiness and a pleasing nutty-sweet taste.

thai fragrant (jasmine) rice

Grown in Thailand and Vietnam, this rice has a fragrant, almost milky aroma. It is widely used in South-East Asian cooking and goes well with spicy dishes typical of the region. It is highly prized and commonly reserved for feasts and celebrations, rather than for everyday meals. It cooks quickly and has a slightly sticky texture.

japanese (sushi) rice

Japanese rice refers to short- and medium-grained rices of the type eaten in Japan. It is more starchy and round than the long-grain varieties, which don’t hold together well enough to support ingredients. It’s unique qualities make it ideal for use in sushi-making, so many stores now sell varieties labelled ‘sushi’ rice.

white basmati rice

This comes mainly from the Punjab region of India, adjacent parts of Pakistan and the foothills of the Himalayas. The Hindi word basmati means ‘the fragrant one’. The grains are long and slender and during cooking become even longer, which partly accounts for its wonderful texture. It is the essential rice for biryani.

brown basmati rice

Like brown long grain rice, brown basmati comes with the bran but without the husk, has all the flavour of white basmati but with the added texture of brown rice.

wild rice

Though wild rice mimics conventionally grown rice in many ways, it isn’t actually a true rice – it’s an aquatic grass with an edible grain. Wild rice tends to be longer, has a more nutty, earthy flavour and the hull is thicker and more rigid. It takes much longer to prepare and has a very strong distinctive flavour. Wild rice is often mixed with other long-grain rice to make for a more even and gentler flavour, as well as a more affordable product.

Grains & Grain Products

polenta

Polenta (cornmeal) has its roots in the peasant cuisine of Northern Italy. It’s made by grinding corn (see page 9), into meal. It can be cooked to be creamy and thick, or allowed to set and sliced, or can be used in place of breadcrumbs when frying.

jumbo oats

Made by rolling the whole oat grain. See Oats, page 9.

pinhead oatmeal

The largest and coarsest oatmeal. See Oats, page 9.

freekeh

Freekeh is made from young durum wheat (see Wheat, page 9) which is roasted or smoked then polished to remove the shells. The green whole grains (shown here) are then cracked to varying degrees of coarseness. It is similar in texture to bulgur wheat and has a rich, nutty, smoky flavour.

rye grain

Rye, in its unprocessed form. See Rye, page 9.

barley

Believed to be the oldest cultivated grain, barley is still a key part of the everyday diet in Eastern Europe, the Middle East and Asia. This nutty, high-fibre grain is sold in two forms, hulled and pearled (shown here). Hulled barley undergoes minimal processing to remove only the inedible outer shell, leaving the bran and germ intact. Enjoy it in soups and stews, or as an alternative to rice for a risotto.

buckwheat

In spite of its name, buckwheat is not actually a type of wheat. Buckwheat groats (shown here) have a nutty, earthy flavour and are a staple food in Eastern Europe and Russia. Buckwheat flour is used to make Japanese soba noodles, while buckwheat pancakes (gallettes) are eaten in France.

millet

Millet is a highly nutritious grain that once rivalled barley as the main food of Europe. It remains a staple ingredient in many parts of the work. Its mild flavour goes well with spicy curries.

quinoa

Hailed as a supergrain, quinoa was known as ‘the mother grain’ by the inca, who grew it for hundreds of years, high up in the Andes. The tiny, bead-shaped grains are most commonly white and red, although available in black (shown here) or purple. It is also available in flake form.

spelt

This is one of the most ancient cultivated crops. Spelt grains (shown here) look similar to wheat and once ground the flour can be substituted for wheat flour in bread. It has a higher nutritional content than wheat.

bulgur

This tasty grain is made from whole wheatberries (see Wheat, page 9), but unlike cracked wheat, the berries are cooked, the bran removed and they are dried and crushed. It is light and nutty and very easy to cook.

amaranth

Native to Mexico, amaranth can be eaten as a vegetable (the leaves are similar to spinach) or as a grain. Once harvested, the tiny amaranth seeds (shown here) are revealed to be a nearly uniform shade of pale cream, and retain a little texture once cooked. They can be used for porridges and pilafs, and are also ground into flour for gluten-free baking.

Breakfasts

Five-grain granola

The perfect start to any day! This granola is just as delicious whether served with a plant-based or a dairy yogurt. The combination of syrups, coconut dried fruit and all the grains make this a light, layered-in-flavour breakfast or anytime snack.

100 g/1 cup each rolled/old-fashioned oats, spelt flakes, quinoa flakes and rye flakes

200 g/1½ cups mixed nuts

60 g/2½ cups puffed rice

100 g/generous ⅔ cups mixed sunflower seeds and pumpkin seeds

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

200 ml/scant 1 cup maple syrup

100 ml/scant ½ cup rice syrup

50 g/2 oz. coconut oil

SERVES 8–10

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F) Gas 4. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper.