The delicious book of dhal: Comforting vegan and vegetarian recipes made with lentils, peas and beans E-Book

Nitisha Patel

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2019

Seitenzahl: 158

Beschreibung

A cookbook showcasing the delicious diversity of dhal in over 55 supremely comforting vegan and vegetarian recipes from Indian chef Nitisha Patel.

Das E-Book The delicious book of dhal: Comforting vegan and vegetarian recipes made with lentils, peas and beans wird angeboten von Ryland Peters & Small und wurde mit folgenden Begriffen kategorisiert:
cooking with Dhal, indian food, vegan indian food, easy recipes for dhal, lentils and pulses cooking, dhal cookery book, vegetarian indian food, cooking with spices, herbs and spices in indian food

Leseprobe

THE DELICIOUS BOOK OF

DHAL

THE DELICIOUS BOOK OF

DHAL

Comforting vegan and vegetarianrecipes made with lentils, peasand beans

Nitisha Patel

Photography by Clare Winfield

Senior Designer Sonya Nathoo

Commissioning Editor Alice Sambrook

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Production Controller David Hearn

Publisher Cindy Richards

Food Stylist Maud Eden

Prop Stylist Tony Hutchinson

Indexer Hilary Bird

Published in 2019 by

Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 East 116th Street

New York, NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © Nitisha Patel 2019

Design and photography © Ryland Peters & Small 2019

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

ISBN 978-1-78879-150-2

E-ISBN 978-1-78879-322-3

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library. US Library of Congress CIP data has been applied for.

Printed in China

NOTES

• Both British (Metric) and American (Imperial plus US cups) measurements are included in these recipes for your convenience. However it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

TOOR DHAL

MASOOR DHAL

CHANNA DHAL

URAD DHAL

MOONG DHAL

RAJMA DHAL

LAL CHORI DHAL

MIXED DHAL

DESSERTS

INDEX

ACNOWLEDGMENTS

INTRODUCTION

‘Okay, the dhal baath is ready,’ Mum would call out to the house most Saturday afternoons. ‘Yum! Do we have lime pickle too?,’ would quickly come my eager reply.

Growing up in an Indian family, this is one of the fondest food memories from my childhood. If we didn’t have somewhere to be and were spending Saturday at home, without fail, my mum would be busy making a big pot of ‘dhal baath’ (curried lentils and rice).

As an adult, eating dhal still arouses these treasured memories for me. Most comfort food from childhood is evocative, but in my opinion, dhals in particular have the ability to transport you to another world, with their aromatic spices and warming, nourishing taste. When I began to cook dhal myself, this added another layer of satisfaction – with the realization that even the simplest of cooking processes can create this soul-stroking bowl of wholesome goodness.

Dhal is the term used all over India for dried split lentils, beans and peas. It refers to both the ingredient as well as the final cooked dish. From a young age, I was always fascinated with the many varieties of dried dhal. I was drawn to the jars-upon-jars of multi-coloured ‘pearls’ that lined my mum’s store cupboard shelves – from tiny orange specks to black beads, shiny maroon gems, to yellow discs and emerald green orbs – such a vast array of shapes and colours!

What I love most about dhal is not only the range of various types, each with their own characteristic flavour and texture, but the endless variety of recipes that can be created with it. From stews to soups, curries to pancakes, fritters to desserts, the list of lentil-based dishes is extensive to say the least.

And lentil-based recipes have never been as widely relevant outside India as they are now. Especially as a food consultant, it’s evident to me that we as a generation are more health conscious and environmentally aware than ever before, and this is directly impacting what we eat. Vegan and vegetarian diets are becoming ever more common, as we realize that rearing vast quantities of animals for food also puts strain on our land and agricultural resources.

Substituting a meat-based meal with a vegan or vegetarian meal at least once or twice a week has great benefits for our health and the environment, yet to some people still, this change can seem daunting (especially when, to some, a vegan diet means just salad!). But hopefully, this book is proof that dhal is a dish that won’t leave you wanting. Here, I share some of my favourite recipes for the most traditionally popular types of dhal, along with some unique modern recipes. They include a rainbow of vegetables and an array of herbs, spices, toppings and accompaniments, so that whenever you need something wholesome yet comforting, you will always find that you can turn to a delicious bowl of dhal.

COOKING DHAL AND GETTING IT RIGHT

There are so many types of dhal and some crossover in the terminology, which can lead to confusion. In order to confidently cook with dhal and get it right, it is important to understand the distinctions.

In the UK, dried lentils, beans or peas (whether whole or split) all come under the umbrella term ‘pulse’. In the UK and US, lentils, beans and peas are all classified as legumes, whether fresh, dried, whole or split – so pulses are part of the legume family.

Lentils are usually disc shaped, with a slightly thicker middle. In the West and across Europe, firm-cooked brown or green lentils are the most commonly eaten. However, in Indian cuisine, masoor dhal (split red lentils) and urad lentils (black with the skin and white without) are more popular, and these are usually cooked until soft.

Split peas used for Indian dhal tend to cook more quickly than whole lentils. The main split peas are channa (split chickpeas), toor (split pigeon peas) and split yellow peas.

Beans used for dhal are generally bigger than lentils or peas. The most common are rajma (red kidney beans) and chori (aduki beans). Left whole and dried, these always require soaking before cooking.

As dhal is so massively integral to Indian cuisine, most Indian kitchens are equipped with a pressure cooker, which helps to shorten the cooking times. However, I’ve included instructions for cooking all these recipes in a saucepan, too. The more you cook with legumes, the more you will come to understand and perfect the cooking processes involved for each type, but follow this basic guide if you are just starting out.

Toor Dhal (Split Pigeon Peas)

You can cook toor dhal from raw (without soaking) if using a pressure cooker, with a ratio of 1 part toor to 3 parts boiling water for approximately 15 minutes (or 9 whistles). Cook until the lentils are completely softened before adding to the base of your dish. If you don’t have a pressure cooker, the toor will need soaking first for 4–5 hours. You can then cook it in a saucepan for 60–70 minutes.

Masoor Dhal (Split Red Lentils)

Probably the quickest and easiest choice if you don’t have a pressure cooker, once picked for stones and rinsed, these lentils can be added straight to the base of your dish and simmered until cooked and softened. Because of this, they soak up the flavours of the other ingredients beautifully.

Channa Dhal (Brown Split Chickpeas)

Channa dhal are quite versatile. They can be soaked overnight and then added straight to the base of a simmering dish, before being simmered until softened but still holding their shape. For a soup or stew however, the channa should be cooked in a pressure cooker or for longer in a saucepan, until softened and no longer holding their shape, with more or less water added, depending on the viscosity you are looking for in the sauce.

Urad Dhal (Black Gram)

Due to its black, seed-like appearance, urad dhal must always be very carefully picked before cooking as stones and dirt can be easily camouflaged amongst the lentils. When left whole with the skin on, urad dhal needs soaking for a minimum of 4 hours before cooking. They should then either be boiled or pressure cooked until they are so soft that they are falling apart. Boiling the lentils can take up to 1 hour, or they can be cooked under pressure for approximately 20 minutes.

Moong Dhal (Whole Green or Yellow Split Moong Beans)

For the more common yellow split variety, moong dhal must first be soaked for 2–3 hours. Once soaked, the dhal should be softened enough to be added and finished off in a sauce base. However, some recipes require the dhal to be so soft that it is falling apart to form the body of a soup or curry.

In this case, it should be boiled or pressure cooked further. The whole green variety of moong dhal generally takes even longer to cook until tender and should be soaked overnight, then pressure cooked or boiled before being adding to your dish.

Rajma Dhal (Red Kidney Beans)

These beans should always be soaked overnight in boiling water before cooking (1 part beans to 5 parts boiling water). Once soaked, the red kidney beans then need to be cooked in fresh boiling water until soft but still retaining their shape. Be aware that raw red kidney beans contain a harmful chemical, which is killed off when they are cooked through properly at a high temperature.

I have provided instructions for cooking the rajma dhal in a saucepan, but I personally find a pressure cooker is more efficient.

Lal Chori Dhal (Red Aduki Beans)

Having been soaked overnight, chori dhal should then be simmered or pressure cooked until they are soft but still holding their shape. Because of their delicate size and beautiful red colour, chori is rarely cooked until falling apart for soups and stews. The exception to this is when it is being used as a paste for a dip or filling.

SPICES FOR YOUR STORE CUPBOARD

Lentils, beans and peas are great at absorbing flavour, and in order to make your dhals sing, you will need a wide range of spices to hand. Rumour has it that Indian food is spicy, and yes, this can be true – but it can also be quite the opposite! Basically, it can be as hot or as mild as you want it to be. Spice levels can vary from dish to dish, from region to region and from occasion to occasion. The key is getting to know your spices and therefore getting the balance right for you. Out of the hundreds of spices there are in Indian cuisine, each one plays a different role and adds a unique element to your dish – there is so much more besides just fierce chilli/chile heat.

It helps me to categorize my spices into whole dried spices, dried spice seeds, dried leaf spices and ground spices. Below is a list of the spices used in the dhal recipes and the properties they contribute to the dish.

WHOLE DRIED SPICES

Cinnamon Stick Aromatic, pungent in taste and slightly sweet.

Cassia Bark pungent in taste, similar odour to cinnamon but with more liquorice notes.

Cloves Highly aromatic in taste, warm and spicy, contain volatile oils.

Cardamom Pods A strong, unique taste with an intensely aromatic, resinous fragrance.

Star Anise Resembles anise in flavour, sightly sweet and spicy.

Dried Kashmiri Chillies/Chiles Add a deep red colour, moderate spice level.

Asafoetida powder Harmonizes and supercharges other flavours, very strong odour.

Black Peppercorns World’s most traded spice, spicy heat, citrusy, woody and floral notes.

DRIED SEEDS

Fennel Seeds Liquorice-flavoured, sweet, aromatic, a light and delicate flavour.

Black Mustard Seeds Spicy, aromatic, rustic taste and smoky fragrance.

Cumin Seeds Distinctive earthy aroma, warmly bitter flavours, draws out other natural flavours.

Black Onion Seeds Aromatic onion flavour, fragrant tinge.

Fenugreek Seeds Bitter and slightly astringent, great for creating a smoky depth of flavour.

Coriander Seeds Earthy, nutty flavour with citrus notes.

Ajwain Seeds Pungent version of thyme with a sharp flavour.

LEAF SPICES

Bay Leaves Distinctive flavour and fragrance, a pungent, sharp and bitter taste. Extremely herbal and floral.

Curry Leaves Aromatic leaves, release a deliciously nutty aroma when fried in hot oil.

Fenugreek Leaves Smoky and bitter but an addictive taste. Strong in aroma and distinctive in flavour.

GROUND SPICES

Ground Cumin Penetrating flavour, slightly bitter, nutty taste, powerful aroma.

Ground Coriander A fresh and pleasing aroma with a mild citrus flavour.

Ground Turmeric Mildly aromatic and has scents of orange and ginger. Has a pungent, bitter flavour.

Paprika Powder A woody, earthy aroma that adds a mild sweet flavour to dishes.

Kashmiri Chilli/Chili Powder Mild in taste, but still delivers a good amount of heat. Gives a lovely deep red colour.

Ground Cinnamon A powerful spice that is sweet and intensely fragrant with a warm and woody aroma.

Ground Green Cardamom A wonderful fragrant and floral aroma with an enticing warm spicy-sweet flavour.

Ground Fenugreek Highly aromatic, slightly sour fragrant flavour with a bitter taste.

Methi Powder Smoky flavour and a light bitter taste with a slight level of heat.

Garam Masala A warm spice mix used to enhance the flavour in a dish. Fragrant, floral and earthy.

Ground Ginger Used as a seasoning agent to give a mild level of heat and spice.

Mango Powder (Amchoor) A fruity spice powder with a citrus taste and a slightly sour aroma.

CHUTNEYS AND PASTES

COCONUT CHUTNEY

CHUTNEY BASE

freshly grated flesh of 1 coconut

100 g/1⅓ cups unsweetened desiccated/dried shredded coconut

1 tbsp channa dhal, toasted

1 green chilli/chile

1.5-cm/½-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled

1 tsp salt

300 ml/1¼ cups water

SEASONED OIL

2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tsp urad dhal

½ tsp mustard seeds

½ tsp cumin seeds

½ tsp Kashmiri chilli/chili powder

10 fresh curry leaves

pinch of asafoetida powder

TO FINISH

freshly squeezed juice of 1 lime

SERVES 6

Put all the ingredients for the chutney base in a tall measuring jug/cup and blitz together using a stick blender. Set aside until required.

For the seasoned oil, put the oil into a saucepan over a medium heat and add the urad dhal and mustard seeds, allowing the mustard seeds to sizzle and crackle in the hot oil for 30 seconds. Add the cumin seeds and allow them to pop. Add the Kashmiri chilli/chili powder, curry leaves and asafoetida powder and toss in the hot oil.

Pour the hot seasoned oil over the coconut chutney base, add the lime juice and stir well. This chutney is best eaten on the day it’s made.

HARIYALI CHUTNEY

100 g/3½ oz. freshly chopped coriander/cilantro

35 g/1 oz. freshly chopped mint leaves

2 green chillies/chiles

freshly squeezed juice of 1½ limes

1 tsp fine sea salt

2 heaped tsp desiccated/dried shredded coconut

1.5-cm/½-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled

1 tbsp natural/plain yogurt

1 tsp caster/granulated sugar

4 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted

SERVES 5

Blitz together all the ingredients, apart from the cumin seeds, in a food processor. Stir in the cumin seeds and serve or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

HOLY TRINITY PASTE

200 g/7 oz. green chillies/chiles

200 g/7 oz. garlic cloves, peeled

200 g/7 oz. fresh ginger, peeled

50 ml/3½ tbsp vegetable oil

1 tbsp fine sea salt

MAKES 625 G/2½ CUPS

Blitz together all the ingredients, apart from the cumin seeds, in a food processor. Stir in the cumin seeds and serve or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

TOOR DHAL

Also known as split pigeon peas, toor dhal is an ancient legume, believed to have been cultivated for food for the last 3500 years. Currently, India is the largest producer of pigeon peas, and they are popular in Indian cuisine as a diverse ingredient and a valuable source of protein in vegetarian diets. In order to become toor dhal, the whole pigeon pea outer shell is removed and then the shiny yellow peas inside are dried and split. Toor dhal has a very subtle nutty flavour, which is more noticeable when cooked and served firm, rather than cooked until soft and falling apart. It breaks down easily when slow-cooked and is ideal for soups, stews and a whole host of other delicious recipes. Toor dhal can also be found ‘oiled’ in large supermarkets – but there isn’t much of a difference between the oiled and non-oiled varieties other than that the oiled has a nice sheen to it.

TADKA DHAL

This popular recipe showcases the toor dhal in its simplest form. The flavour is enhanced with a tadka, a tempered blend of pungent spices, which infuses every spoonful.

TOOR DHAL BASE

200 g/7 oz. toor dhal

750 ml/3¼ cups boiling water

½ tsp fine sea salt, plus extra to taste

½ tsp ground turmeric

TADKA

3 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tsp cumin seeds

4 garlic cloves, sliced

2 green chillies/chiles, slit in half lengthways

10–12 fresh curry leaves

large pinch of asafoetida powder

2 large tomatoes, roughly chopped

pinch of fine sea salt

1 tsp palm sugar/jaggery

freshly squeezed juice of ½ lemon

5–6 fresh coriander/cilantro stems, roughly chopped, plus extra to garnish

basmati rice, to serve

pressure cooker (optional)

SERVES 2–3

Start by making the dhal base. Pick through the toor dhal to remove any stones. Place it in a colander and rinse under cold running water until the water runs clear. Transfer the rinsed lentils to a pressure cooker with the boiling water, salt and turmeric. Close the pressure cooker and place over a medium heat. Cook for about 15 minutes or 9 whistles. (If you don’t have a pressure cooker, you will first need to soak the picked and rinsed lentils in 1 litre/quart of boiling water for 4–5 hours. Drain, then transfer the lentils to a large saucepan with 1 litre/quart of fresh boiling water, the salt and turmeric. Cover with a lid and bring to the boil, then simmer over a medium heat for 60–70 minutes, topping up the boiling water as needed.)

Towards the end of the lentil cooking time, prepare the tadka. Put the vegetable oil into a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the cumin seeds and let them sizzle for 1 minute. Add the garlic slices and fry for 30 seconds until golden brown. Add the chillies/chiles and curry leaves. Gently shake the pan to coat the ingredients in the seasoned oil. Fry for 30 seconds, then add the asafoetida powder. Stir in the tomatoes and salt. Reduce the heat to low and let the tomatoes melt into the tadka oil for 5–6 minutes, stirring regularly.

Meanwhile, when the lentils are softened but still holding their shape, release the steam from the pressure cooker slowly (or remove the pan from the heat). Most of the cooking water should have been absorbed, but gently crush the lentils with any that remains.

Add the cooked lentils, palm sugar/jaggery and lemon juice to the tomato mixture and mix well. Simmer gently for a final 6–7 minutes.