The Dutch Oven Cookbook E-Book

Louise Pickford

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Beschreibung

A Dutch oven is an iconic piece of kitchenware, highly prized by all cooks from beginners to professionals. A thick-walled, seasoned cast-iron cooking pot, as to why it's called a Dutch oven, no one knows for sure. The most popular theory is that the 17th century Dutch were the first to use clay moulds in favour of casting metal in sand, and this enabled smoother finishes for iron cookware. Regardless of its origins, by the 1920s, a well-known French brand (now synonymous with this lidded casserole) was supplying them to French restaurants specifically for cooking their most popular dish, coq au vin. As a Dutch oven can be a costly investment piece, how do you make sure that you put yours hard to work? Easy – with this collection of 60 tried-and-tested recipes you can impress with well-known classics from Beef Bourguignon and Slow-cooked Greek Lamb to One-pot Spanish Seafood Stew. But what you can cook in a Dutch oven is not limited to these familiar dishes – you can also prepare home-cooked comforts ranging from Cajun Chicken Gumbo, Mac 'n' Cheese, Short Ribs, Carnitas (Mexican Pulled Pork) and Spinach & Cheese Strata, plus discover exciting new recipes to expand your repertoire, including Kale & Squash Lasagne and Sriracha- braised Brisket and even a loaf of Dutch Oven Bread!

Leseprobe

the

Dutch Oven

COOKBOOK

the

Dutch Oven

COOKBOOK

60 recipes for one-pot cooking

LOUISE PICKFORD

Photography by

IAN WALLACE

Senior Designer Toni Kay

Senior Editor Gillian Haslam

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Head of Production Patricia Harrington

Production Manager Gordana Simakovic

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Publisher Cindy Richards

Food and Prop Stylist Louise Pickford

Indexer Hilary Bird

First published in 2021 by

Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 E 116th St

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text copyright © Louise Pickford 2021

Design and photographs copyright © Ryland Peters & Small 2021

ISBN: 978-1-78879-389-6

E-ISBN: 978-1-78879-413-8

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

US Library of Congress cataloging-in-publication data has been applied for.

Printed and bound in China

NOTES

• Both American (Imperial plus US cups) and British (Metric) measurements and ingredients are included in these recipes for your convenience, however it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• All eggs are large (US) or medium (UK), unless specified as large, in which case US extra-large should be used. Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.

• When a recipe calls for the zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Contents

Introduction

SOUPS

FISH & SEAFOOD

MEAT

POULTRY

VEGETABLE DISHES

BAKING & DESSERTS

Index

Acknowledgments

Introduction

I grew up watching my mother cook amazing stews and pot roasts in a cast-iron Dutch oven, or a casserole dish as we called it in the UK. It was so heavy that as a kid I couldn’t pick it up empty, let alone when full of deliciousness!

In today’s high-convenience, hi-tech world where we demand our designer items perform a dozen different tasks at once, I’ll take my 35-year-old hand-me-down Dutch oven over pretty much anything new and sleek. So, what is it about this centuries-old, classic, simple yet beautifully elegant cast-iron pot that makes it many cooks’ essential piece of kitchen equipment? It is, of course, its versatility and durability.

The shape of the pot and its weight make it ideal for searing meat over a high heat and then lowering the heat to maintain an evenly distributed, lower temperature, for longer. But this is just the tip of the iceberg. A Dutch oven should not be reserved simply for weekend slow cooking, it can and should be used regularly for every type of cooking, from those stews and pot roasts to bakes, cakes, stir-fries, deep-fried dishes, stovetop braises, and even delicious pies. It is a truly versatile cooking pot and in this book I will share with you 60 of my favorite Dutch oven dishes. I have experimented with different cooking methods and developed recipes from around the world, as far and wide as Asia, Europe, South America, and the US. Its range is broad.

HISTORY

It is perhaps in the US that the Dutch oven has found its place in the hearts and homes of most cooks. Tracing its history is fascinating and in the same way that produce was traded and recipes shared around the world, so were cooking pots.

As its name suggests, it was first made by the Dutch in the 17th century (where it is called a braadpan), yet the early ovens were made of copper and brass rather than iron. It was an English craftsman who took the design back to Britain and began using cast iron to produce a cheaper and more dynamic pot. Early Dutch and British settlers and explorers brought their pots with them to America, arriving on the east coast and gradually traveling west across the vastness of the continent.

With its wide rim and straight sides, often gently sloping at the base, the shape has barely changed over the years (although oval and shallower versions have been added). In the early years, because it was used to cook over an open fire rather than on a stovetop or in an oven, three legs were added, allowing it to sit over rather than on the fire, and we find slightly different versions of this worldwide, including the US, South Africa, Australia, the Far East, and even Russia, where early settlers and nomads prized their cast-iron pans for their durability and versatility. The three-legged versions are still popular today with campers the world over.

Dutch ovens became so prized in the US that their value increased and many would be passed down through families as heirlooms (including Mary Ball Washington, mother of US president George Washington). In old TV westerns you often see a cast-iron pot hanging from cowboy wagons. These campfire pans soon evolved to include a slightly inverted, domed lid so that hot charcoal could be shoveled on top, giving it a more uniform internal heat and a functional oven. This is likely when cooks first started to bake bread in their Dutch ovens.

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the French company Le Creuset developed an enamel coating for their cocotte (the French name) to prevent the cast iron from rusting. New shapes, as well as different colors, began to emerge, with variations in individual sizes plus oval and shallow round pots ideal for sautéing.

It is a testament to the utility of this internationally loved cooking pot that it remains as treasured, well used, and highly valued today as it was centuries ago, when it would often have been the only cooking vessel available in which to cook your every meal.

USES

As well as stews and long, slow roasting, your Dutch oven is ideal for steaming, whether you use a second dish inside the oven or place food directly on a rack above water or a broth. The heavy lid is perfect for keeping the steam inside the pan.

It is good for deep-frying as the pan’s very stability (due to its weight) feels so much more secure to the reluctant deep-fryer. Once the required temperature is reached, reducing the heat to low allows you to maintain an even temperature for longer without needing to adjust it up or down.

Stovetop braising is equally as successful as oven braising as the thickness of the pan base allows us to cook long and slow over a low heat without fear of juices burning and sticking to the inside base of the pan.

Discovering I could use my Dutch oven as a wok was especially pleasing, as I hadn’t thought of this before. As long as you keep your pan well seasoned (see right) and you get it really hot before adding the ingredients, it stir-fries like a dream.

And those stews… Anyone who has cooked with a Dutch oven for some time will know just how great the flavor of the food will be, and it just seems to get better over the years. It is a very special thing indeed. Is there anything this good old pot can’t do? No, I think it’s perfect.

INVESTMENT

Purchasing a Dutch oven requires a little thought, but although expensive, given their durability, you will probably only buy one or two in a lifetime, so it is worth getting the right one for your needs.

There are two main types available (with many variations within each type)—cast iron or enamel-coated cast iron, both of which I use in this book.

As a general rule, cast-iron ovens are cheaper than their enameled counterparts. Although they basically do the same thing, the enameled pan (literally a cast-iron pot coated inside and out with enamel) is slightly easier to care for. Both can be used for all types of cooking except broiling/grilling or campfire cooking, which is not recommended for the enamel-coated pan.

The enamel can chip if the edge of the pan is knocked, however it does not need to be seasoned in order to prevent rusting. Enamel-coated pans are non-porous and although less likely to burn, cleaning them is easier and more gentle than for their cast-iron cousins. And if you like a little color in your kitchen, then enameled pans win hands down. They come in the most glorious range of colors, whereas cast-iron black is, well, black.

Both types come in a multitude of sizes, from mini individual ovens to enormous 8-quart/litre options and pretty much everything in between. There are round and oval pans as well as those with shorter sides, ideal for sautés, braises, and pies. There are several well-known manufacturers and the prices vary from one to the other. The larger the pan, the more expensive. My advice is to ask yourself what you will use it for: what type of cooking do you do? How many people do you regularly cook for? Will you want to use it on a campfire? Is the climate where you live warm and moist or hot and dry? The more informed you are, the better choice you are likely to make.

PREPARATION, CLEANING & STORAGE

If you buy a new Dutch oven, it will come with instructions on how to prepare it before use, how to clean, and how to store, so follow these. However, many of us buy second-hand pans or receive them as hand-me-downs, so here is my best practise for cleaning and storing both types of pan. The better you care for your Dutch oven, the longer it will last and the longer it will continue to produce some of the most delicious dishes you will ever eat.

ENAMEL-COATED CAST-IRON OVEN

Simply using soapy water and a soft sponge to clean your pan will usually suffice, but from time to time we need to get a little more forceful. Make sure your pan is cool. Add a little dishwashing soap, hot water and a couple of tablespoons of baking soda/bicarbonate of soda, then set aside for 15 minutes. Use a plastic scraper to scrape off any stubborn bits. Rinse under cold water and use a soft, wet sponge and a little extra soap to scrub gently at any remaining bits. Rinse again.

For a burnt-on mess or heavy brown staining, make a paste with baking soda/bicarbonate of soda and a little hot water. Spread this over those areas with the sponge. Cover the pan and let sit for several hours, then add a little more hot water and use your soft sponge to rub away the stains. This should leave the pan clean and fresh. Rinse the pan thoroughly under hot water and leave to drain well. Make sure it is completely dry before storing it.

Store your pan partially covered with the lid (you may wish to use a layer of paper towel between the pan and lid) in a cupboard. Always rinse and dry before using it again. There is no need to season an enamel-coated Dutch oven.

CAST-IRON OVEN

Here you can be more robust with your cleaning. After each use, wipe the pan clean with a paper towel and allow it to dry thoroughly. For stains and sticky bits, you can be vigorous. Fill your pan with water and place on the heat, bringing the water to the boil. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool, to loosen the residue. Pour away the water and use a brush or chainmail sponge to rub away stubborn bits of food or stains, adding a little dishwashing soap if needed. When clean, rinse the pan thoroughly with warm water. Dry it well with plenty of paper towels (or place in a warm oven for 10 minutes or so) to make sure it is completely dry.

To season it for storage, pour a teaspoon or two of cooking oil into the pan and wipe all over, inside and out (except for the base), using a paper towel, wiping away any excess. When completely dry, place it in a cupboard with the lid partially covering it, using paper or a clean dish towel between lid and pan. Wipe over the interior of the pan with more paper towel before using it the next time.

RECIPES

All recipes in the book have been tested in the deeper style of ovens rather than the shallow sautéing pans. I used individual pots as well as large round and oval pots and opted for the middle range of sizes in the hope of covering all bases. I do use small 8-oz/250-ml capacity dishes for several recipes (and give advice on using a larger pan if you don’t have small ones) and the majority of recipes use a 4–6 quart/litre Dutch oven (both round and oval), as well as a few recipes that use 2–3 quart/litre pans.

Pan sizing differs for each manufacturer. Some give imperial or metric liquid capacity, whereas others give diameter measurements. I have used capacity in all my recipes, as well as a couple of diameters for cakes or baked dishes which require a more specific size. Don’t worry if you only have one size of pan—it is fine to adapt the recipes and as a general rule, providing your oven is the same capacity or larger than the one stated in a recipe, you will be fine. Otherwise you can adjust the recipe quantities as required for a smaller pan.

I didn’t cook any of my dishes over a campfire but if you plan to do this, please ensure you use a cast-iron pan rather than an enamel-coated pan.

SOUPS

Baked French onion soup with Gruyère topping

Slowly braised onions are truly one of life’s pleasures, especially in this classic, comforting soup, with its topping of melted cheese. For vegetarians, if you are happy eating cheese, simply replace the beef or chicken stock with vegetable stock.

5 tablespoons/75 ml extra virgin olive oil

2 lb. 4 oz./1 kg onions, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons freshly chopped thyme

½ cup/125 ml fruity red wine

4 cups/1 litre beef stock or chicken stock (see page 19)

½ F rench baguette

⅔ cup/75 g grated G ruyère

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

SERVES 4

Preheat the oven to 400ºF/180ºC fan/200ºC/Gas 6.

Heat the oil in a 4-quart/litre Dutch oven over a medium heat and gently fry the onions, garlic, and thyme with a little salt and pepper for 25 minutes until really soft and lightly golden, stirring frequently to prevent the onions from burning.

Add the wine, bring to the boil, and boil for 5 minutes or until evaporated, then pour in the stock. Bring back to the boil and season to taste.

Cut the bread into slices ½ inch/1 cm thick and arrange over the top of the soup. Scatter over the Gruyère and Parmesan cheeses and transfer the pan to the preheated oven. Bake uncovered for 10–15 minutes until the soup is bubbling and the cheese melted and golden. If you wish, you can brown the top of the cheese under a hot broiler/grill.

Cool for 10 minutes before serving.

White bean & rosemary soup with bacon pangrattato

Pangrattato is an Italian fried breadcrumb garnish, often scattered over a dish of cooked pasta. Here, combined with crispy fried bacon, it provides both crunch and flavor to the finished bean soup. If you prefer to cook your own beans from scratch rather than using canned ones, follow the recipe on page 120 and replace the stock in the recipe below with the cooking liquid from the beans.

4 tablespoons/60 ml olive oil, plus extra to serve

1 large onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tablespoons freshly chopped rosemary

12 oz./350 g potatoes, such as Y ukon G old, R usset, D esiree, or K ing E dward, diced into ½ -inch/1-cm cubes

2 x 14-oz./400-g cans cannellini or haricot beans, drained and rinsed (see introduction)

4 cups/1 litre chicken stock (see page 19) or vegetable stock

2 bay leaves

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

BACON PANGRATTATO

4 tablespoons/60 ml olive oil

4½ oz./125 g slices/rashers of bacon, rind removed and diced

1 large garlic clove, crushed

3½ oz./100 g day-old bread (without crusts)

2 tablespoons freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley

SERVES 4–6

Heat the oil in a 4-quart/litre Dutch oven over a medium heat and fry the onion, garlic, and rosemary for 5 minutes until lightly golden. Add the potatoes and beans, stir well, and then add the stock, bay leaves and a little salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer gently for 15–20 minutes until the potatoes are tender.

Meanwhile, make the pangrattato. Heat the oil in a medium skillet/frying pan over a high heat. Add the bacon and fry for 2–3 minutes until crisp and golden. Remove the pan from the heat and using a slotted spoon, remove the bacon from the oil, set aside. Add the garlic to the hot oil off the heat and set aside for 10 minutes to flavor it. Remove and discard the garlic.

Cut the bread into pieces and place in a food processor. Using the pulse button, blend the bread to make rough crumbs, as evenly sized as you can. Return the skillet/frying pan to a medium-high heat, add the breadcrumbs, and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes or until they are evenly golden and crisp. Combine with the bacon, parsley, and a little salt and pepper and set aside.

When the potatoes are tender, transfer half the soup to a liquidizer and blend until smooth. Return to the pan and stir. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then heat through.

Divide the soup between warm bowls and top with the pangrattato and a swirl of olive oil.

Smoked fish, bacon & charred corn chowder

A chowder is a fish soup made with a combination of stock, milk, and cream, traditionally thickened with crushed crackers or a roux. I prefer a slightly thinner version so I omit this part, resulting in a finished soup with a lighter and more modern feel. I love the depth of flavor provided by the smoked fish and the charred corn.

2 corn cobs, trimmed and husks discarded

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 lb. 2 oz./500 g smoked haddock or cod fillets

4 cups/9 00 ml chicken stock (see page 19) or vegetable stock

1¼ cups/300 ml whole/full-fat milk

2 sprigs of fresh thyme, bashed

2 bay leaves, bashed

9 -oz./250-g piece of smoked bacon, rind removed, diced into ½-inch/1-cm cubes (or use thick slices/rashers or lardons)

1¾ tablespoons/25 g butter

1 onion, finely chopped

2 stalks/sticks of celery, thinly sliced

9 oz./250 g potatoes, diced into ½-inch/1-cm cubes

1 cup/250 ml light/single cream

a pinch of cayenne pepper

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons freshly snipped chives

SERVES 4

Preheat a griddle pan until hot. Rub the corn cobs with oil and season well with salt and pepper. Cook on the griddle pan for 5–8 minutes, turning frequently, until the kernels are charred and softened. Let cool, then cut down each side to remove the kernels. Discard the cobs and set the kernels aside.

Place the fish, stock, milk, and herbs in a skillet/frying pan over a medium heat. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for 5–6 minutes until the fish is just cooked through. Set aside to cool completely. Strain and reserve the cooled stock mixture. Discard the fish skin, flake the flesh into a bowl, and set aside.