The Island Poké Cookbook E-Book

James Gould-Porter

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2022

Seitenzahl: 163

Beschreibung

The Hawaiian people have a laid-back love of life, and Island Poké's restaurants are committed to sharing this ethos and the authentic flavours from these shores in over 65 recipes. Poké (pronounced Po-Keh) means to 'slice' or 'dice' in Hawaiian but it has evolved to become the Hawaiian staple of sliced raw fish served on rice with many condiments and toppings. Fusing the joy of real Hawaiian food, which is a delicious fusion of many cuisines including Polynesian, Japanese, Chinese, South American, Pacific Rim and even Portuguese influences. The book includes recipes for popular poké dishes sold in the Island Poké restaurant such as classic Spicy Ahi and Golden Beetroot with Chilli Lime Shoyu. There are multicultural Pacific Rim inspired dishes such as Sea Bass Crudo, Teriyaki Salmon Chirashi and Baja Poke Tostadas. Famous Luau feasting recipes include Pacific Chowder and Huli Huli Chicken. Finally, a chapter showcasing tropical brunches and bakes includes Açaí Bowls and Courgette and Pecan Loaf. First Published in 2018, this is a new edition.

Leseprobe

ISLAND POKÉ

ISLAND POKÉ

COOKBOOK

RECIPES FRESH FROM HAWAIIAN SHORES, FROM POKE BOWLS TO PACIFIC RIM FUSION

JAMES PORTER

Photography by Mowie Kay

To Liv and the whole Island Poké family for making this possible.

Senior Designer Megan Smith

Commissioning Editor Alice Sambrook

Editor Gillian Haslam

Picture Researcher Christina Borsi

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Production Manager Gordana Simakovic

Publisher Cindy Richards

Food Stylists Emily Kydd & Natalie Thomson

Props Stylists Tony Hutchinson & Alexander Breeze

Indexer Vanessa Bird

Originally published in 2018

This revised edition published in 2022

by Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 East 116th Street

New York, NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © James Porter 2018, 2022

Design and commissioned photography © Ryland Peters & Small 2018, 2022

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

ISBN: 978-1-78879-433-6

eISBN: 978-1-78879-459-6

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library. US Library of Congress CIP data has been applied for.

Printed in China

NOTES

• Both British (Metric) and American (Imperial plus US cups) measurements are included in these recipes for your convenience. However it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.

• When following a recipe which uses raw fish or meat, always ensure you buy sashimi-quality ingredients and use on the day of purchase. Raw fish or meat should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems, without medical advice.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

FOOD SAFETY NOTICE

The information contained within this book is intended as a general guide to poke-making at home, based on the author’s recipe development and experience. Although all reasonable care has been taken in the preparation of this book, neither the publishers nor the author can accept any liability for any consequence from the use thereof, or the information contained therein. Please consult an up-to-date government source on food safety for further information.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

THE HAWAIIAN PANTRY

POKE

What is poke?

LOCAL ISLAND FAVOURITES

Island life

PACIFIC RIM FUSION

Eating in Hawai‘i today

LŪ‘AU INSPIRED FEASTING

The spirit of aloha

SIDES, SALSAS & SAUCES

TROPICAL TREATS & TEMPTING TIPPLES

The poke journey & the avocado effect

INDEX

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS & PICTURE CREDITS

INTRODUCTION

Let’s first explain what poke is, and what it isn’t.

A poke bowl is a healthy version of sushi, originating in Hawai‘i. The Hawaiian term ‘poke’ translates as ‘chop up in small pieces’. The dish can consist of any number of ingredients from the traditional ‘ahi (or yellowfin tuna) to other fish, shellfish, octopus, tofu or seasonal vegetables. All these are marinated and served with Japanese- and Hawaiian-inspired sauces and condiments, such as kukui nuts and seaweed.

Although they say there are at least a hundred varieties in Hawai‘i, poke has since morphed into almost unrecognisable variations since leaving its homeland. Despite not using traditional ingredients, some are generally true in spirit to what an islander would consider poke to be. Many more are full of unusual decorative and flavour touches, such as edible flowers, rice in shades of green and black, multiple fruit pickles and plenty of crispy kale.

As you’d expect, we have kept to the script with the more original Hawaiian combinations, which you’ll find sitting comfortably alongside the more modern fusion versions of poke, both in this book and in our Island Poké stores. Not only scrupulously and correctly prepared with the best ingredients available, we keep to the ‘island style’ for that tasty, authentic, super-healthy vibe that captures the freshness and flavours of Hawai‘i.

Island Poké started off on a tennis court in 2003. I was playing in a junior tennis tournament on Maui and actually won both the singles and doubles titles. It was a great moment for my tennis game, but in the long run something else overshadowed the tennis. This was what we were eating for lunch. The friendly local players seemed to be addicted to a cup of raw fish with two scoops of rice from the local Foodland supermarket. It may not have pushed them over the line in the tennis, but it certainly contributed to their Aloha spirit.

Fast forward to 2015. I left my job at Bonhams and started street trading in London. Although my tennis career lost its way sometime before I went to university, the lunch I remembered having in Maui formed the basis of my new venture. I tapped into that Hawaiian experience, and knew it would be great to share this little known dish called poke.

Since we moved into bricks and mortar in 2016, Island Poké has taken off as one of the main contributors to what has been described as ‘poke-mania’ in London. A lot of our success has to do with keeping things thoroughly ‘island style’. This means poke that is uncomplicated, not overly embellished, and essentially familiar to anyone with experience in Hawai‘i. Alongside the food, the ‘island style’ means a casual vibe, friendly service and staff who are dedicated to providing that aloha.

It is in this spirit that I examine the culinary roots from which the global poke phenomenon stemmed. One of the focal points is the range of traditional Hawaiian cooking that underpins the current scene on the islands. Locally these sorts of dishes are known as authentic ‘ono grindz’. Another is fusion style, described as Hawaiian Regional or Pacific Rim cooking, a direct result of Hawai‘i being practically in the centre of the Pacific Ocean. Finally, I look at how other countries around the world approach distinctive dishes on a parallel course as those Hawaiian originals.

We hope you think the passion for proper poke runs through from me, the founder, to the fabulous crew at Island Poké.

A big Mahalo, or thank you, to our friends and poke pals, and particularly to all those of you who are enthused by what’s on these pages. I hope our enthusiasm will help cut you loose to try for yourself!

THE HAWAIIAN PANTRY

To get you started on your Hawaiian food journey, here is a little explanation of some of the more unusual ingredients used in these recipes – how to use them, where to find them and useful substitutes.

FURIKAKE a Japanese rice seasoning typically containing finely chopped nori seaweed, toasted sesame seeds, salt and sugar.

HAWAIIAN SEA SALT you can use normal rock sea salt as a substitute, just not iodized salt.

INARI WRAPS these are little Japanese parcels made using soya bean curd (similar to a sweet-ish omelette) wrapped around a combination of fillings, normally including rice as well as a couple of other ingredients, such as vegetables or raw seafood.

KAMABOKO this is similar to that imitation crab meat found in most grocery stores, also known as surimi. It’s a Japanese fish cake made of compressed white fish. You can substitute imitation crab meat.

LŪ'AU LEAVES these are the large edible leaves from the taro plant. They contain a mild irritant so make sure you wash your hands after preparing (or use rubber gloves if you have sensitive skin) and always cook for at least an hour before eating.

LI HING MUI this is a dried, salted plum normally dyed bright red and frequently used in confectionery. The powder is often used to decorate cocktail rims or when pickling dried fruit.

MOCHIKO FLOUR this is a Japanese rice flour made from finely milled short grain rice. It gives a very light, slightly chewy texture. You could use normal rice flour or wheat flour as substitutes, although this would result in a slightly different consistency.

PITAYA POWDER this is a bright pink powder made from grinding up the dried flesh of a dragonfruit. You could use dried blueberry, mango, matcha, cacao or açai powder instead, which can usually be found in health food stores. Just bear in mind that changing the powder will inevitably change the flavour and colour of the whole recipe accordingly.

SHOYU SAUCE this is another word for soy sauce in Hawai‘i, and stems from the Japanese word pronounced ‘shoryu’. However, this should not be confused with our house shoyu-based sauce, which is a mixture of 2 parts soy sauce, 1 part sesame oil and a splash of mirin, if you want to make your own.

TARO ROOT this is a staple in Hawaiian cooking used to make poi, lau’laus and kūlolo. It is from the kalo plant and is a bit like a white yam. Make sure you wear gloves when preparing raw taro and don’t eat it raw as it can be an irritant. You could use cassava instead, or maybe sweet potato, although both would result in a slightly different taste, especially if making something like poi or kulolo.

TI LEAF this is a long, waxy, non-edible leaf used to help retain moisture while cooking. You could use banana or pandan leaves instead, both of which would flavour the food in a slightly different way. Alternatively, you can just use foil to help keep the juices in.

TOBIKO is flying fish roe, but you could use a different sort of roe if you can’t get your hands on tobiko, ideally something fairly large as the eggs are about 5 mm/¼ inch across.

TOGARASHI POWDER is a zesty Japanese chilli/chili pepper spice. You could use a mix of 4 parts red chilli/chili pepper powder, 1 part sesame seeds, 1 part ground dried citrus zest and 1 part ground nori instead.

YUZU is a fragrant, sour Japanese citrus fruit, a cross between a mandarin and a lemon. The fresh fruit is hard to source but you can buy the juice from Asian supermarkets. If you can’t get yuzu juice, you could use half fresh orange juice and half lime juice, although it wouldn’t be quite the same.

POKE

POKE (PO-KEH)/PO KEI/VERB – HAWAIIAN TO ‘SLICE’ OR ‘DICE’.

INTRODUCING THE ISLAND POKÉ WAY.

THE CLASSIC ‘AHI POKE

Here is the granddaddy of all the poke recipes. It is our standard ‘ahi poke recipe and what we serve day in, day out at Island Poké. The secret to its success is the sashimi-grade ‘ahi that we allow to stand on its own, without being overwhelmed with too many other flavours. If you cannot source sashimi-grade ‘ahi, ask your fishmonger to advise you on whether their freshest tuna can be eaten raw.

SERVES 4 AS A MAIN

250 g/1½ cups sushi rice (see page 15)

500 g/1 lb. 2 oz. sashimi-grade ‘ahi or yellowfin tuna (see page 15)

2 tablespoons shoyu

1 teaspoon sesame oil

3 spring onions/scallions, finely sliced

1 thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, grated

OPTIONAL TOPPINGS

2 tablespoons Pickled Ginger (see page 139)

2 red chillies/chiles, sliced

2 spring onions/scallions, sliced

1 avocado, peeled, stoned and sliced

1 tablespoon edamame

2 tablespoons tobiko (fish roe)

2 tablespoons wakame seaweed

1 tablespoon macadamia nuts

2 tablespoons Crispy Shallots (see page 137)

Pineapple-Red Chilli Salsa (see page 134)

dash of sriracha sauce

mixed sesame seeds, for sprinkling

edible flowers, to garnish

Make up a batch of sushi rice.

Cube or dice ‘ahi or tuna into smallish pieces. Place in a bowl with the shoyu, sesame oil, spring onions/scallions and ginger and gently mix together. Leave for at least 15 minutes for the flavours to combine.

Place the rice in a poke serving bowl, add the poke and garnish with any of the toppings. Add one of the following sauces: sriracha mayo (see below), wasabi crema (see below), or straight sriracha sauce.

SRIRACHA MAYO

Mix together 2 tablespoons sriracha sauce, 3 tablespoons mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons thick yogurt and the freshly squeezed juice of 1 lime.

WASABI CREMA

Stir together 125 g/½ cup sour cream, 3 tablespoons crème fraîche, 2 teaspoons wasabi paste, 1 teaspoon light soy sauce and the freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon. Leave for at least an hour to allow the flavours to develop.

SPICY ‘AHI VARIATION

Heat up a cast iron pan and char 2 jalapeños and 2 red chillies/chiles until just blistered on all sides. Remove from the pan and set aside. In the same pan, toast 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, then run a knife across them before crushing in a mortar. De-stem and finely dice the charred chillies/chiles.

Make up a Standard ‘Ahi Tuna Poke (see above) and combine with above ingredients. Add a drizzle of SB Red Salsa (see page 135) if you want an extra bit of heat.

LA THREE-WAY POKE

Poke with three different soy-marinated fish – usually salmon, tuna and mahi mahi – is perfect for a big get-together. If making this recipe for 12, follow the quantities in the three fish recipes. Reduce quantities in proportion if serving fewer.

SERVES 12

If making this recipe for 12, follow Poke recipe quantities. Reduce quantities in proportion if serving fewer.

Classic ‘Ahi Poke (see page 12)

Yuzu Lomi Lomi Salmon Poke (see page 18)

Mahi Mahi Poke (see below)

TO SERVE

750 g/3¾ cups sushi rice (see page 15), made with green tea or matcha

chopped chillies/chiles

Kalua Chipotle Ketchup (see page 136)

Pineapple-Red Chilli Salsa (see page 134)

Tomatillo Salsa (see page 132)

MAHI MAHI POKE

500 g/1 lb. 2 oz. very fresh mahi mahi (see page 15)

freshly squeezed juice of 2 limes

2 tablespoons shoyu

3 spring onions/scallions, finely sliced

1 thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, grated

2 tablespoons edamame

2 tablespoons seaweed

2 tablespoons tobiko (fish roe)

1 box salad cress, snipped

SERVES 4, OR MAKES ONE-THIRD OF LA THREE-WAY POKE

Make up some green tea or matcha sushi rice. Prepare the ‘Ahi Tuna and Yuzu Salmon, plus the Mahi Mahi as below.

Carefully place each poke over the rice, add some extra chillies/chiles on top. Add some extra punch with salsas and sauces, such as Kalua Chipotle Ketchup, Pineapple-Red Chilli Salsa and Tomatillo Salsa.

Eat with chopsticks, with matcha tea to sip on the side.

MAHI MAHI POKE

If you cannot guarantee the freshness of the mahi mahi, marinate the fish in the lime juice to ‘cook’ it for about 30 minutes. If you cannot source mahi mahi, try a similar firm fish, such as sea trout, halibut or shark.

Dice the fish and place in a serving bowl, then add the shoyu, spring onions/scallions, ginger and edamame. Sprinkle over the seaweed and tobiko. Finish with a flourish of cress.

ENOUGH FOR 4 SERVINGS IN POKE RECIPES

250 g/1½ cups sushi rice

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons white sugar

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 tablespoons mirin

BASIC SUSHI RICE

Rinse the rice at least three times in cold water. Place in a medium-sized pan with 500 ml/2 cups water and bring to the boil. After the water reaches boiling point, reduce the heat to a low simmer and cover with a lid. The rice should absorb all the water and be tender after 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the salt, sugar, rice vinegar and mirin in a bowl.

Tip the rice out of the pan onto a metal tray and spread out so that it cools quickly. You can aid the cooling process by fanning. While fanning the rice, gently pour over the vinegar mixture and combine by running through the rice with a fork. Cover with clingfilm/plastic wrap if not using immediately (the cooked rice should be used within a day).

A NOTE ABOUT FISH

‘AHI

Also known as yellowfin tuna.

MAHI MAHI

Also known as dorado. Use swordfish if you cannot find mahi mahi.

If using raw fish in your poke dishes, it is very important that you buy the freshest of fish, ensuring that it is sashimi-quality and can be eaten raw (check this with your fishmonger). Raw fish should always be stored in the refrigerator and eaten within 24 hours of purchase.

To check the freshness of a fish and its suitability for eating raw, there are a few guidelines:

• The eyes should be clear and plump.

• The body should be firm, plump, hydrated and shiny.

• The gills should be bright red or pink.

• Sniff the fish – if it smells unpleasant, you won’t want to eat it raw.

• If buying a piece already cut from a large fish (such as tuna or salmon), the flesh should be bright in colour and hydrated.

Government food safety agencies have issued guidelines for using raw fish, as occasionally raw fish may contain parasitic larvae. If wild fish are to be eaten raw or lightly cooked, ensure that all parts of the fish, especially the thickest parts, have been frozen for at least 4 days in a domestic freezer at -15ºC or colder to ensure that any undetected larvae are killed.

Before freezing, it is best to cut the fish into a block, then wrap in clingfilm/plastic wrap. To defrost, move the frozen fish to the fridge for 5–12 hours before use. Eat on the day of defrosting.

YUZU LOMI LOMI SALMON POKE

When I started street-food trading I only sold two pokes – ‘Ahi Tuna and Salmon. I bought the best salmon at Billingsgate, but created this citrus-based sauce that really sets this poke apart. Use a combination of orange and lime, if you can't source yuzu.

SERVES 4

250 g/1½ cups sushi rice (see page 15)

1 teaspoon yuzu

2 tablespoons mirin

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

500 g/1 lb. 2 oz. very fresh salmon (see page 15)

3 spring onions/scallions

Yuzu-Mango Salsa (see page 132), to serve

OPTIONAL TOPPINGS

2 tablespoons edamame

1 teaspoon furikake seasoning

1 tablespoon shredded seaweed

1 teaspoon black sesame seeds

2 tablespoons Pickled Ginger (see page 139)

edible flowers, to garnish

Prepare a batch of sushi rice.

Make up the marinade by mixing up the yuzu, mirin and light soy. Cube the salmon and put into a bowl with enough marinade to just provide a glistening surface for the salmon. Add some very finely sliced spring onions/scallions.

Make the poke by spooning some rice into bowls, add some of the salmon, then finish by topping with the edamame beans, furikake, seaweed, black sesame seeds and pickled ginger.

To serve, add some Yuzu-Mango Salsa directly on top.

GOLDEN BEETROOT POKE

Poke, in its nature, is a fairly organic concept. It is also about championing the best ingredients. I had the idea in my early poke days to bring ingredients other than fish into my range. Golden beetroot/beets as a poke main ingredient was practically presented to me on a plate by an organic grower in Somerset who was extolling the virtues of his crop. When roasted, the golden beetroot/beet is sweet and earthy. Combined with a simple marinade, this vegetable-based poke is real crowd-pleaser.

SERVES 4

250 g/1½ cups sushi rice (see page 15)

500 g/1 lb. 2 oz. golden beetroot/beets or 4 medium-sized beetroot/beets

olive oil

salt

FOR THE MARINADE

2 teaspoons mirin

6 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons sesame oil

freshly squeezed juice of 1–2 limes

1 red chilli/chile, sliced

3 spring onions/scallions, sliced

1 thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, grated

TO SERVE

2 teaspoons mixed sesame seeds

2 tablespoons Pickled Ginger (see page 139)

2 tablespoons edamame

1 avocado, peeled, stoned and sliced

2 tablespoons tobiko (fish roe) (or substitute yuzu masago for vegetarians)

1 tablespoon macadamia nuts, rolled in togarashi

1 tablespoon thinly sliced nori seaweed