Travels with My Spatula E-Book

Tori Haschka

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2020

Beschreibung

Transport your kitchen on a trip around the world with this delicious collection of cultural cuisine. If you've ever found yourself dreaming about that time you spent sipping Margaritas in Mexico, or when you had to have just one more croquette from the mouth-watering displays of tapas in Spain, you're not alone. Tastes, aromas and the whole foodie experience of a country can stay with you for years, and make you want to pack your bags and relive that moreish moment in time. Food and travel writer Tori Haschka felt exactly the same every time she travelled, finding herself collecting Post-It notes of memorable dishes she'd eaten and then – when she got home – she'd capture her experiences through recreating recipes. Split into chapters covering brunch, sweet treats and summer and winter recipes, you can try her slow-cooked ribs from Brooklyn, the perfect pasta from Rome or luscious lentil koshary from Cairo; each recipe is a delicious memory waiting to be brought back to life in her home and yours. Who knows, it may even inspire you to book a flight and take a foodie journey of your own!

Leseprobe

TRAVELS

WITH MY

SPATULA

TRAVELS

WITH MY

SPATULA

RECIPES & STORIES FROM AROUND THE WORLD

Tori Haschka

Photography by Isobel Wield Illustration by Andrea Turvey

dedication to the hungry one

Senior Designer Megan Smith

Commissioning Editor Céline Hughes

Production Controller Gary Hayes

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Prop Stylist Tony Hutchinson

Food Stylist Lizzie Harris

Indexer Hilary Bird

First published in 2013

This revised edition published in 2020

by Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields,

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 E 116th St

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © Tori Haschka 2013, 2020

Design and photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2013, 2020

eISBN: 978-1-78879-273-8

ISBN: 978-1-78879-209-7

Printed and bound in China

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

US Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data has been applied for.

Notes

• All spoon measurements are level, unless otherwise specified.

• Recipes containing raw or partially cooked egg, or raw fish or shellfish, should not be served to the very young, very old, anyone with a compromised immune system or pregnant women.

• All herbs are fresh, butter unsalted and eggs UK medium or US large unless otherwise stated.

• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before use. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water and rinse before using.

contents

Introduction

1 Off to a good start

food for a sociable start to the day & when you crave breakfast for dinner

2 Summer

feasts best eaten with sand between your toes

3 Winter

feasts best eaten when hunkering down in front of a FIRE

4 The sweet stuff

desserts for sharing, treats for sneaking & things to call on when a grey day needs a lift

introduction

‘There is no love sincerer than the love of food.’ GEORGE BERNARD SHAW (1856–1950)

Except perhaps a love of travel. Thank goodness the two go hand in hand.

My hunger for food and travel began when I found a co-pilot. We met in Sydney’s inner west, in a dank pub with a Thai restaurant on the roof, its tables sticky from spilled drinks. Not long after, we went on a small adventure. After three days on the sands of Phuket spooning coconut tapioca and flat noodles with fiendishly hot chilli, we had joint epiphanies. It started with a wish list on the back of a boarding pass; it ended with an oversized map freckled with Post-It notes.

Joy comes easily when you’re away. It’s not about beaches, boulevards, snow and city scapes, although they certainly help. It’s the energy that comes with experiencing something new. It’s an immediacy which makes it hard to think of anything else. There’s also the anticipation. No matter how salty a day, having a trip on the horizon makes most things easier to swallow.

It wasn’t long after that I dubbed the tall, blonde fellow, who later became my husband, ‘The Hungry One’. It is a name borne as much from his appetite for life as his capacity to consume. Since that first adventure, he’s passed some important lessons on to me. If you see a long queue for food, join it; locals will be waiting for a reason. I shared some tips of my own, gleaned the hard way after collecting E. coli from a local well in Malacca: just because it’s washed, doesn’t mean it’s clean. But the most important thing we learnt was how to pack. Beyond a passport and a credit card, all we really needed was an open mind and an appetite.

Neither of us expected to find the world’s best hot dogs in Iceland or a perfect schnitzel made by Austrian princes in Florence. As the years went on and a few curve balls were thrown our way, more Post-Its found their way onto the maps. From our base in Sydney we’d squelch our annual leave into a bundle and fly off to explore other corners of the world.

Later, after cramming clothes, books and a trusty red spatula into two suitcases, London became home. Weekend minibreaks, with cheap flights and a rush for seats in cattle class, were the order of the day. We’d leave on Friday night and eat and explore a city all weekend.

Many of the dishes in this book evolved from those trips. There were escapist lunches of garlic prawns with a pitcher of sangria in Estoril, and pastillas from the cool shadows of a Marrakech riad. Others came from more sobering places. We didn’t intend to witness revolution when we went to the Great Pyramids. Now when we eat koshary, we taste the adrenaline of people calling for freedom.

Nothing can transport me back to a place like a taste. A sip of Campari and I’m looking over Piazza San Marco. A glass of salmon-pink wine, beaded with sweat, and I’m watching boats nod in Menton. Put a Victoria beer in my hand and it will whisk me straight to Baja. More than a photo, a journal entry or a pair of souvenir cufflinks, it’s the food that keeps the journeys alive. As long as I’ve got access to a kitchen and some inspiration I could be anywhere, and it’s on those nights that I find I’m happier than ever to be home. I hope it works the same for you. Bon voyage.

Off to a good start

food for a sociable start to the day & when you crave breakfast for dinner

london

The first time I visited London, the days were grey and the sky buckled like wet socks. It wasn’t until I returned eight years later and tasted the mushrooms on toast at St. John restaurant that I began to properly chew on the prospect of uprooting our lives to live here. It’s funny how a dish can do that. It might have been the resilient way the char of the bread held up against the sag of mushrooms. It might have been the hum of parsley and garlic. Whatever it was, over a plate of mushrooms on toast my resolve melted. This was not just a dish that made me feel at home. It was steadying enough to get me to contemplate shifting ours.

My recipe is not a replica of Fergus Henderson’s mushrooms on toast. Those wanting the true experience should go to St. John in Smithfield, London, right now. This is the version I make when I can’t get there. It serves as brunch, lunch or supper when I need an edible hug. The way the juices of the fungi soften the toast in the centre is a high point. For extra interest there’s Parmesan, sage and burnt butter. My husband likes it with more bells and whistles. He’ll happily pair it with prosciutto or a poached egg – or both. But to me the real heroes are the mushrooms. They work equally well over soft polenta, pasta or even puréed white beans for supper if you have a craving for mushrooms but just can’t bring yourself to serve toast for dinner.

Mushrooms, brown butter & parmesan on toast

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 garlic cloves

1½ tablespoons sage leaves, half finely chopped, half kept whole

2 tablespoons flat leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped

400 g/14 oz. mixed mushrooms, sliced

3 tablespoons milk

1 handful Parmesan shavings

2 large slices of sourdough bread

salt and pepper

Serves 2

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large frying pan with the olive oil.

Cut 1 of the garlic cloves into slivers. Add it to the pan along with the chopped sage, half the parsley and a good pinch of salt. Swirl the pan over medium heat for 2 minutes to infuse the butter/oil.

Turn the heat up high and add the mushrooms, using tongs to toss them in the infused butter/oil.

When the mushrooms have browned and wilted, add the milk. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

Grill/broil the sourdough until lightly charred around the edges. Cut the remaining garlic clove in half and swipe it over the hot toast.

Divide the Parmesan between the slices of toast and scatter half the mushrooms and their juices over the top.

Return the empty frying pan to the heat. Add the remaining butter and sage and heat over medium heat until the sage is crisp and the butter has turned golden brown.

Drizzle the brown butter and crisp sage leaves over the mushrooms and toast. Serve hot.

To double this recipe for a crowd, you will have to use 2 frying pans: if you crowd the mushrooms, they will stew instead of brown and you don’t want that.

new york

Introducing: the popover. You could think of it as the Yankee cousin of a Brit’s Yorkshire pudding. It sits in the food family tree halfway between frittatas and crêpes, and resembles a souffléd muffin. The name ‘popover’ captures the way they creep and slump beyond their cooking case. The outside of a popover is crisp like toast, the interior soft. It’s the perfect food for the city that never sleeps; not quite breakfast and not quite lunch, it also squats very happily on a dinner table next to Slow-cooked Pork Ribs (page 85). I first met popovers two blocks west of Central Park. They were plain. We smothered them with butter, ready blended with strawberry jam (‘strawberry butter’!). These at-home versions take a savoury route, playing host to corn and punched up with chilli. For an amplified taste of New York, dress them with cream cheese and lox (cured salmon). Though in a city where excess is applauded, it’s hard to go past lemon cream cheese and a sticky tomato relish bolstered with bacon.

corn popovers with tomato-bacon relish

Tomato-bacon relish

1 tablespoon olive oil

120 g/4 oz. lardons, streaky bacon or thick bacon, diced

1 red onion, cut into slim half moons

225 g/8 oz. cherry tomatoes, halved

1 tablespoon muscovado or brown sugar

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

To serve

150 g/⅔ cup cream cheese topped with 1 teaspoon lemon zest and a grinding of black pepper

Corn popovers

70 g/½ cup corn, lightly mashed with a fork (fresh, canned or frozen)

1 tablespoon butter, melted and cooled to room temperature, plus extra for greasing

130 g/1 cup plain/all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon salt

250 ml/1 cup milk

4 eggs, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon chilli powder

salt and black pepper

12-hole, non-stick popover or muffin pan

Makes 12 popovers

To make the tomato-bacon relish, heat the oil in a large saucepan and sauté the bacon and onion until the bacon fat has softened. Add the tomatoes, sugar and vinegar and cook over medium heat for 30–45 minutes until the tomatoes have wilted and the relish is jammy.

To make the corn popovers, if using frozen corn, defrost it in a frying pan with the melted butter. If using fresh or canned corn, simply mix it with the melted butter.

In a bowl, mix together the flour, sugar, salt and a grinding of pepper.

Stir in the milk, eggs, and butter and corn mixture until evenly combined. Allow the batter to rest for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 230˚C (450˚F) Gas 8 and put the popover/muffin pan inside to heat up.

Remove the hot pan from the oven and carefully grease the holes with extra butter. Pour the batter into each hole until it comes three-quarters of the way up.

Bake in the oven for 25 minutes or until puffed and golden. Serve straight from the oven with the tomato-bacon relish and cream cheese.

Feel free to substitute peas for the corn.

phi phi island

Some days you need to pretend you’re in Thailand. Over four days on Phi Phi Island we ate our body weight in banana pancakes and tapioca puddings. We loved that place.

When I need sunshine, these are the flavours I turn to: ginger wakes me up, coconut makes me look for palm trees and lime makes my palms itch for a cocktail, preferably with a novelty umbrella.

Tapioca must be one of the most soothing substances around. The little pearls, like bean-bag stuffing, are available from most Asian food stores. With some coaxing, they swell into cuddly spheres suspended in a custard-style sauce.

Eaten hot or cold, it’s perfect after Asian-spiced fish or an aromatic meat like duck, or as part of a breakfast banquet with a big platter of fruit salad.

I like to eat it while listening to bad pop music and wearing fisherman’s trousers that seemed like a good idea at the time. That way I really feel like I’m on holiday.

Coconut, lime & ginger tapioca with lychees & toasted coconut

2-cm/1-inch piece of fresh ginger, roughly chopped

zest of 1 lime, in 1 piece

250 ml/1 cup milk

100 g/½ cup (caster) sugar

75 g/½ cup small pearl tapioca (not quick-cooking)

1 x 400-ml/14-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk

To serve

120 g/1 cup peeled lychees, fresh or canned

juice of 1 lime

20 g/½ cup coconut flakes

Serves 6

Put 250 ml/1 cup water in a saucepan with the ginger and lime zest and bring to the boil. Once it’s come to the boil, cover with a lid and remove from the heat. Allow to steep for 20 minutes.

Fish the ginger and lime out of the water. Put back on the heat, add the milk, sugar, tapioca and coconut milk and bring to the boil over high heat.

Once boiled, reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 20–30 minutes, stirring occasionally with a metal spoon to prevent it sticking to the bottom of the pan. Cook until all the liquid has been absorbed and the tapioca has thickened to the texture of a droopy porridge. Transfer to bowls.

Serve warm or chilled, but just before serving, toast the coconut flakes in a dry frying pan until they brown at the edges.

If using fresh lychees, peel and stone/pit them and cut them into quarters. Dress them with the lime juice. Top the bowls of pudding with the lychees and toasted coconut.

Coconut flakes are different from desiccated coconut – they’re wafts of coconut flesh that toast beautifully. If you can’t get them, substitute with toasted flaked/slivered almonds.

paris