Trees, Shrubs & Hedges for Your Home, 4th Edition E-Book

• Herausgeber: Creative Homeowner
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2023

Seitenzahl: 475

Beschreibung

Landscape professionals regard trees, shrubs, and hedges as the essential framework of any landscape design. The trick is to select the best plants for your growing conditions and plants that also look good together. Trees, Shrubs & Hedges for Your Home, 4th Edition is a comprehensive guide that will show you how to achieve a beautiful landscape, while also providing descriptions for over 1,000 of the best plants that are beautiful, low-maintenance, pest- and disease-resistant, and easily available at local nurseries and home centers. This newly updated edition focuses on native plants and excludes invasive shrubs and trees. It also features updated plant names, as well as recommendations for the latest and best gardening practices, clean green repellents that are environmentally conscious. Featuring complete instruction and inspiration to landscapes for four-season interest, color, and beauty, learn how to select and cultivate the best and harmonious plants with confidence!

Leseprobe

This book may not be reproduced, either in part or in its entirety, in any form, by any means, without written permission from the publisher, with the exception of brief excerpts for purposes of radio, television, or published review. All rights, including the right of translation, are reserved. Note: Be sure to familiarize yourself with manufacturer’s instructions for tools, equipment, and materials before beginning a project. Although all possible measures have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the material presented, neither the author nor the publisher is liable in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, or typographical error.

Creative Homeowner® is a registered trademark of New Design Originals Corporation.

Updated Edition

Managing Editor: Gretchen Bacon

Editors: Joseph Borden and Jeremy Hauck

Technical Editor: Mark Wolfe

Designer: Christopher Morrison

Indexer: Jay Kreider

Trees, Shrubs & Hedges for Your Home, Fourth EditionPrint ISBN 978-1-58011-571-1ISBN 978-1-63741-154-4

Library of Congress Control Number: 2023931634

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

Creative Homeowner®, www.creativehomeowner.com, is distributed exclusively in North America by Fox Chapel PublishingCompany, Inc., 800-457-9112, 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552, and in the United Kingdom by Grantham Book Service,Trent Road, Grantham, Lincolnshire, NG31 7XQ.

Safety First

Though all concepts and methods in this book have been reviewed for safety, it is not possible to overstate the importance of using the safest working methods possible. What follows are reminders—do’s and don’ts for yard work and landscaping. They are not substitutes for your own common sense.

▪ Always use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book.

▪ Always determine locations of underground utility lines before you dig, and then avoid them by a safe distance. Buried lines may be for gas, electricity, communications, or water. Start research by contacting your local building officials. Also contact local utility companies; they will often send a representative free of charge to help you map their lines. In addition, there are private utility locator firms that may be listed in your Yellow Pages. Note: previous owners may have installed underground drainage, sprinkler, and lighting lines without mapping them.

▪ Always read and heed the manufacturer’s instructions for using a tool, especially the warnings.

▪ Always ensure that the electrical setup is safe; be sure that no circuit is overloaded and that all power tools and electrical outlets are properly grounded and protected by a groundfault circuit interrupter (GFCI). Do not use power tools in wet locations.

▪ Always wear eye protection when using chemicals, sawing wood, pruning trees and shrubs, using power tools, and striking metal onto metal or concrete.

▪ Always read labels on chemicals, solvents, and other products; provide ventilation; heed warnings.

▪ Always wear heavy rubber gloves rated for chemicals, not mere household rubber gloves, when handling toxins.

▪ Always wear appropriate gloves in situations in which your hands could be injured by rough surfaces, sharp edges, thorns, or poisonous plants.

▪ Always wear a disposable face mask or a special filtering respirator when creating sawdust or working with toxic gardening substances.

▪ Always keep your hands and other body parts away from the business ends of blades, cutters, and bits.

▪ Always obtain approval from local building officials before undertaking construction of permanent structures.

▪ Never work with power tools when you are tired or under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

▪ Never carry sharp or pointed tools, such as knives or saws, in your pockets. If you carry such tools, use special-purpose tool scabbards.

Contents

Introduction

PART 1 LANDSCAPING WITH TREES, SHRUBS, AND HEDGES

Plan and Grow with Care

Invasive Species: Think Twice before Planting!

Pyrus calleryanaCallery Pearalso called “Hazelnuts”

Ulmus parvifoliaChinese Elmalso called “Lacebark Elm”

BuddleiaButterfly Bushalso called “Summer Lilac”

Calluna vulgarisScotch Heather

Genista tinctoriaWoadwaxen

Hibiscus syriacusRose-of-Sharonalso called “Shrub Althea”

Kerria japonicaJapanese Kerria

BerberisThe Barberries

Euonymus Euonymus

Nandina domesticaHeavenly Bamboo

PyracanthaThe Firethorns

LigustrumThe Privets

SorbusThe Mountain Ashes

MahoniaThe Mahonias

LoniceraThe Honeysuckles

SpiraeaThe Spireas49

PART 2 ALL ABOUT TREES

Main Facts and Key Details

Tree Profiles

Alphabetized by genus (scientific name)

AbiesThe Firs

AcerThe Maples

AesculusThe Buckeyes

BetulaThe Birches

Calocedrus decurrensIncense Cedar

CarpinusThe Hornbeams

CaryaHickories

CedrusThe Cedars

CercisThe Redbuds

ChamaecyparisThe White Cedarsalso called “False Cypresses”

ChionanthusThe Fringe Trees

Cladrastis luteaAmerican Yellowwood

CornusThe Dogwoods

CorylusThe Filbertsalso called “Hazelnuts”

CotinusThe Smoke Trees

CrataegusThe Hawthorns

Davidia involucrataDove Treealso called “Handkerchief Tree”

EucalyptusThe Gum Trees

FagusThe Beeches

Franklinia alatamahaFranklin Tree

FraxinusThe Ashes

Ginkgo bilobaGinkgoalso called “Maidenhair Tree”

Gymnocladus dioicusKentucky Coffee Tree

HalesiaThe Silverbells

IlexThe Hollies

JuniperusThe Junipers

KoelreuteriaGolden-Rain Tree

LaburnumThe Laburnum

Lagerstroemia indicaThe Crape Myrtles

LarixThe Larches

Liquidambar styracifluaAmerican Sweet Gum

LiriodendronThe Tulip Trees

MagnoliaThe Magnolias

MalusThe Crabapples

Nyssa sylvaticaBlack Gumalso called “Black Tupelo,”“Sour Gum,” or “Pepperidge”

Oxydendrum arboreumSourwoodalso called “Sorrel Tree”

Phellodendron amurenseCork Treealso called “Amur Cork Tree”

PiceaThe Spruces

PinusThe Pines

PrunusThe Flowering Plums, Cherries, and Almonds

QuercusThe Oaks

SalixThe Willows

Sophora and StyphnolobiumThe Sophoras

StewartiaThe Stewartias

StyraxThe Snowbells

ThujaThe Arborvitaes

TiliaThe Lindensalso called “Basswoods”

TsugaThe Hemlocks

Zelkova serrataJapanese Zelkovaalso called “Saw Leaf Zelkova”

PART 3 ALL ABOUT HEDGES

Hedge Basics and Fine Points

Hedge Profiles

Alphabetized by genus (scientific name)

BuxusThe Boxwoods

x Cupressocyparis leylandiiLeyland Cypress

Nerium oleanderThe Oleandersalso called “Rose Bays”

OsmanthusOsmanthus

PhotiniaThe Photiniasalso called “Christmas Berries”

PodocarpusPodocarpus

Prunus laurocerasusCherry Laurel

RosaRoses for Hedges

TaxusThe Yews192

PART 4 ALL ABOUT SHRUBS

Main Facts and Key Details

Shrub Profiles

Alphabetized by genus (scientific name)

Abeliax grandifloraGlossy Abelia

Acer palmatumJapanese Maple

AmelanchierThe Serviceberriesalso called “Shadblows”

Aucuba japonicaGold-Dust Treealso called “Japanese Laurel”

CamelliaThe Camellias

CeanothusCeanothus

ChaenomelesThe Flowering Quinces

CistusThe Rock Roses

ClethraThe Clethrasalso called “Summersweet”or “Sweet Pepper Bush”

CotoneasterThe Cotoneasters

Cryptomeria japonicaJapanese Cedar

DaphneThe Daphnes

DeutziaThe Deutzias

EricaThe Heaths

ForsythiaThe Forsythias

FothergillaThe Fothergillas

Gardenia jasminoidesGardeniaalso called “Cape Jasmine”

GaultheriaSalal and Wintergreen

HamamelisThe Witch Hazels

HydrangeaHydrangea

HypericumSt. John’s Wort

Kalmia latifoliaMountain Laurel

Kolkwitzia amabilisBeauty Bush

LeucothoeThe Leucothoes

PhiladelphusThe Mock Oranges

Physocarpus opulifoliusEastern Ninebark

PierisPierisalso called “Andromeda”

PotentillaThe Cinquefoils

RhododendronThe Azaleas

RhododendronThe Rhododendrons

RosaThe Roses

SarcococcaThe Sweet Boxes

SkimmiaThe Skimmias

SyringaThe Lilacs

ViburnumThe Viburnums

VitexThe Chaste Trees

WeigelaThe Weigelas

Glossary

About the Technical Editor

Credits

Introduction

Choosing the right low-maintenance, diseaseresistant plants for your location is the first step toward success, followed by proper planting and care. Trees, Shrubs, and Hedges for Your Home can be your guide to a beautiful garden of your own creation.

Trees, shrubs, and hedges make up the living framework of your garden. Trees provide shade, screen out unsightly views, make a visual link between land and sky, and filigree winter’s open horizon. Shrubs, on the other hand, fill the middle heights between the trees and the lawn or flower beds. Not just a backdrop for herbaceous flowers, shrubs contribute shape, color, and texture throughout the year, even when blanketed by snow. When used as hedges, trees and shrubs make living fences. Woody plants are bargains when you consider their ease of maintenance and enduring contribution to the landscape. Even though they may be the most expensive plants in your garden and some may require years to mature, the investment is worth making.

The plants in this book are among the best of their kind. This means they have lasting beauty and low maintenance needs, and most are pest- and disease-resistant. Yet some woody plants, such as the finicky roses, are so desirable that we plant them even though we know they will need extra care. Still, you can prevent many problems if you choose your plants to fit the soil, sunlight, and climate your property provides.

Trees, shrubs, and hedges are the most important plants in your landscape. While the loss of a zinnia or a peony bush—even a patch of lawn—is a nuisance, the loss of the shade and shelter provided by trees and shrubs usually requires significant restructuring of your garden design. This book provides information on choosing the right woody plants for your property. It also explains how to get your plants off to a good start and give them the care that’s best for a long and healthy life. Such plants will reward you with “good bones,” the structure a landscape needs, and beauty that will be enduring. —Jacqueline Hériteau

Native plants used in a Texas landscape design.

Native plants for sale at a Florida nursery.

Solid hedge walls add structure to a path leading up to the house and soften the look of the brick. The hydrangeas, with their pudgy purple-pink flowers, are in bloom at the height of the summer.

Landscaping and Climate Change

Cultivating plants is one of the best ways to engage with nature and support the environment. Our home landscapes are places of sanctuary where we can decompress and immerse ourselves in verdant peace. It is fitting that we give nature a break in return by creating a well-adapted, resilient garden that thrives with minimal care in the available growing conditions. Creating a climate-friendly garden begins with plant selection.

Our yards and gardens are key battlegrounds in the fight against climate change. Selecting native plants and ornamentals that grow best in the local soil type, temperature range, and precipitation levels ensures that the landscape will remain healthier and require fewer external inputs. You will save money, time, and energy while irrigating, fertilizing, pruning, and spraying far less than you would if you had planted needier exotic plants.

The effects of climate change include intensifying weather patterns, longer, hotter heat waves, and more extreme drought and flood events. A well-planned landscape buffers against these symptoms. Established trees and shrubs create microclimates that mitigate temperature extremes and alleviate stormwater runoff. By shading the home and yard in summer, they help reduce home energy consumption while improving the soil and protecting waterways.

And you can take pride in the fact that your yard is a carbon capturing machine. Woody landscape plants are highly efficient at capturing and storing atmospheric carbon dioxide, one of the main contributors to climate change. When you plant more trees and shrubs, and reduce lawn grass coverage, you decrease your maintenance workload while fostering a healthier environment.

10 COMMON LANDSCAPING MISTAKES

1. NOT HAVING A PLAN

Sketch out a plan to avoid mistakes.

A landscape plan is a detailed reference tool that shows how the yard will look upon completion. You can hire a pro to create one for you or sketch one yourself. The plan visually overlays the positions of hedges, garden beds, foundation plantings, pathways, and other features onto a scaled drawing of your yard. It includes detailed lists of plants, by size and type, along with the other materials you will need. Work from a landscape plan to make shopping and installation flow smoothly and efficiently.

2. USING BAD DESIGN

Design the landscape to work with your home, not against it.

Weak points in the landscape design may not be immediately obvious unless you know what to look for. As you create or review your plan, remember that the views from inside the home and outdoor rooms within the landscape are just as important as curb appeal. Consider screening eyesores like electrical boxes and trash cans from more than one angle. Avoid identical symmetry, with the exception of formal gardens, and focus more on visual balance and layering. Keep scale and proportion in mind when choosing plants, in terms of both immediate and ultimate size.

3. CHOOSING THE WRONG PLANTS

Select plants that can thrive in your local environment.

Numerous considerations contribute to good plant selections. Each landscape plant must offer the attributes to fulfill certain needs, such as a high canopy for shading, dense foliage for screening, or flowers in colors that complement the home. They must be well adapted to thrive in the climate, soil, and available sunlight. They should be an appropriate size and proportion to complement the landscape at planting time, and not have the potential to outgrow the space. The best choices are those that have low maintenance requirements and create visually attractive combinations with the surrounding plants.

4. BUYING ON IMPULSE

Some plants are nearly irresistible, especially when they are well displayed in a retail nursery. But if that rhododendron covered in massive blooms is not on the plan and there is no filtered sunlight available, it probably will not be a good purchase. Following a plan saves time and money. Maintain discipline and buy only what will work in your garden.

5. USING POOR PLANTING TECHNIQUES

Start off on a good foot by using proper planting techniques.

Planting techniques often make the difference between survival and loss. The root crown should not be buried. Roots must be given ample room to expand laterally into loosened soil, but the soil should be firmed after planting to eliminate large air pockets. Top heavy trees may require staking for the first growing season, but supports should not interfere with normal growth and establishment of the young plant. For best results, follow the planting instructions outlined in this book.

6. USING POOR WATERING TECHNIQUES

Frequent, light waterings lead to the development of weak, shallow roots that are not drought tolerant. The best way to know if a woody plant needs water is to touch the soil. If it feels dry two inches below the soil surface, it is time to water. Establish strong, deep roots by deep soaking the entire root zone when watering.

7. USING POOR FERTILIZATION HABITS

Test the soil regularly to ensure you’re using the right amount of fertilizer.

Too much fertilizer leads to excessive growth that attracts infestations of insects and diseases. On the other hand, nutrient deficiencies prevent plants from growing properly, and also lead to bug and disease problems. The best way to know when, how much, and what kind of fertilizer your plants need is by testing the soil. As a rule, trees, shrubs, and hedges should be fertilized once a year, in the early part of the growing season, using either an organic fertilizer or a slow-release fertilizer.

8. PRUNING AND TRIMMING IMPROPERLY

Only prune during the proper season at a proper age.

Newly planted trees and shrubs should be left unpruned for faster rooting. Hedges should be occasionally “pocket pruned” to improve sunlight penetration and air circulation. Most pruning should be done in the dormant season between fall leaf drop and when the buds begin to swell in late winter, but some trimming, especially of shrubs that bloom on old wood, should be done in summer. Follow the guidance in this book for best results.

9. NOT CONSIDERING WILDLIFE

Plan with desirable and undesirable wildlife in mind.

Every landscape interacts with wildlife. Interactions can be welcome, such as when butterflies and hummingbirds visit chaste tree flowers; or not, as when deer eat up all the rosebuds before they have a chance to bloom. Keep these potential interactions in mind while planning, so that you may include wildlife friendly selections and protect sensitive shrubs from damage.

10. NOT RECYCLING

Piles of recyclable debris are generated in the course of landscaping consisting of leaves, branches, and weeds. In most cases this waste material can be reused within the yard and garden as mulch or compost. Fallen leaves may be left as winter mulch beneath shrubs and on landscape beds. Use a chipper-shredder to grind branches for composting. Composted garden waste returns plant nutrients and stable organic matter to the soil for a healthier, more efficient growing environment.

Sustainable Landscape Design

Sustainability in landscaping means tapping into nature’s efficiency to reduce negative impacts on the environment. It is an ideal to pursue, rather than an achievement that can be checked off a list. A sustainable landscape design treats water as a valuable resource, conserves and improves soil, shows preference for native plants, avoids material waste, and minimizes maintenance requirements. Starting a project with these principles in mind leads to a more functional plan that focuses on solutions instead of creating new problems.

The use of mulch is an excellent and well-known example of sustainability in practice. Mulch is recycled waste that is minimally processed simply by aging. When applied in a garden bed or tree ring, it makes a healthier root zone for plants by reducing evaporation, smothering weeds, buffering soil temperature extremes, and gradually decomposing into soil.

The use of native plants is another incredibly effective sustainable practice. As mentioned elsewhere in this book, natives require almost no external water or fertilizer, improve the soil’s water-holding capacity, and tolerate the pressure of native insects without the use of chemical sprays. Other sustainable practices include:

• Observe the sunny, shady, wet, or dry areas in your yard, and choose plants accordingly.

• Plant ground cover plants on slopes or large vacant areas instead of mulching.

• Minimize turfgrass space.

• Compost yard waste for reuse within the landscape.

• Limit irrigation by planting dry-tolerant plants.

• Harvest rainwater for irrigation instead of using treated tap water.

• Irrigate deeply and less often with a drip system instead of sprinklers.

• Create garden terraces on slopes to eliminate runoff.

• Build a rain garden to let stormwater soak into the soil.

• Minimize commercial fertilizer use.

• Allow natural predatory species to control insect pests.

• Install aggregates and permeable pavements instead of concrete and asphalt.

Keep scale and structure in mind when designing your landscape. This massive tree is set off by the expansive lawn.

Many things can go wrong if sustainability is not kept in mind while planning your landscaping project. Excessive runoff and flooding are common ailments.

Overplanting or allowing excess growth can lead to insect infestations and diseases.

A lawn that receives too much direct sunlight or too little water can quickly dry out.

Combating Carbon

Much of the phenomenon of climate change can be attributed to the ever-increasing presence of elevated levels of carbon dioxide and other heat-trapping gasses in our planet’s atmosphere. Most scientists agree that the levels of CO2 in our atmosphere are largely due to human activities, such as the burning of fossil fuels in our cars, factories, and businesses. Over time, this has led to a gradual warming of the planet’s average temperatures, and has required people, plants, and wildlife to adapt to these environmental changes. Luckily, though, you have more options available than simply adapting your landscape to better deal with the effects of climate change. If you employ good gardening and landscaping practices on your property, you can actively help fight climate change.

Carbon is constantly being released into the atmosphere from a variety of sources, which is a large part of our current climate change struggles. Plants, particularly trees and shrubs, are excellent at removing carbon dioxide from the air and storing it in their vegetation, roots, and the soil. The plants you introduce to your home landscape can be powerful tools for combating climate change.

THE CARBON CYCLE

All life on Earth is carbon based. When carbon-based lifeforms begin decomposing, they release CO2 back into the atmosphere. The plants in your backyard or garden are no different. In the graphic here, you can see an overview of the carbon cycle. Simply put, carbon enters the air from a variety of sources and is stored there, creating a blanket of heat-trapping gasses that makes the planet hotter. This is why sustainable landscaping practices are so important, as improper practices not only do nothing to combat carbon emission and climate change, they can actually contribute to it. Plants, particularly trees and shrubs, are excellent at absorbing this carbon from the air and storing it in vegetation, roots, and the soil.

CARBON-FIGHTING LANDSCAPING PRACTICES

Plant native trees and shrubs. All plants are capable of trapping and storing carbon, but trees and shrubs are particularly adept at this because they are long-lived, large, and woody, which makes them able to store larger quantities of carbon for longer. A single tree can store 24 pounds or more of carbon each year. Plus, a tree that offers shade to your home will help combat energy usage in the summer months, further reducing carbon emissions.

Avoid carbon-emitting equipment. Gas-powered equipment such as lawnmowers, chainsaws, and weed trimmers release CO2 and further exacerbate the problem. Where possible, consider using electric tools. If you have a small yard, consider using a push mower instead of a larger riding mower that releases more pollutants.

Plant cover crops. Most gardens, no matter what you are planting, experience times of the year where plants are not actively growing—typically in winter. During this time, exposed soil can erode, be overtaken by weeds, and most importantly, will allow carbon to escape. Cover crops such as grasses, cereal grains, or legumes can help retain carbon in the soil. When these crops are turned over in the spring, they will only further enrich your soil with carbon and other nutrients that will help your plants grow.

PART 1

Landscaping with Trees, Shrubs, and Hedges

Trees, shrubs, and hedges are the backbone of a home landscape, so the time you spend planning to incorporate them into a new or an existing design will be well spent. Don’t skimp on the planning stage. The more intimate you become with the landscape, the more satisfying your changes will be. Walk the property. Study the existing groupings of large plants—the trees and shrubs—from various perspectives and at different times of day—at sunrise and sunset and in the rain—absorbing the way the garden feels, smells, and looks.

Plan and Grow with Care

Become familiar with the textures of bark and leaves, the development of flowers and berries, and the seasonal changes in plant silhouettes. These details will help you choose the plants that will give you pleasure for many years.

There are Japanese maples for nearly all regions of North America. Most landscapes benefit from at least one of these maples somewhere.

Design Considerations

There’s an amazing number of wonderful plants from which to choose, but most homeowners limit themselves to the same 50 or so popular ornamentals. Few discover the fragrant viburnum’s intoxicating sweet clove scent; or experience one of spring’s great moments—the blooming of a cherry against a background of evergreens; or witness fall’s fiery foliage display of maples, barberries, euonymus, black gums, and serviceberries.

Before making an addition to your garden, learn all you can about available plants. The information is easy to acquire, and your garden will be more varied and interesting for your effort. Visit the arboreta and public gardens in your region to study the plants growing there. Talk to successful gardeners in your neighborhood. Also inquire at local garden centers; many offer free design services. For an additional charge, they might deliver, plant, and provide a replacement warranty. But when your design plans require reshaping the contours of the land or changing the grade, it’s wise to consult a landscape architect. A garden center that maintains a landscaping division employs experienced landscape architects and can be of great help. Or ask friends or neighbors for recommendations.

Edge, where lawn meets woods, offers an opportunity to blend a fence line with herbaceous plants, such as these lupines, and native trees, such as this spruce and clump of birches, opposite top.

Trees and shrubs help create a structure from which you can build the rest of your landscape, left. They not only provide visual interest, they also section the landscape into separate activity areas.

Flowering trees, such as this plum below, look striking against evergreens. Fallen flower petals make the pathway especially inviting.

PLANTS CHANGE SIZES

To decide whether a woody plant is right for your property, first consider its size at maturity. Growing conditions will make a difference. A mature tree grown in an open, sunny landscape may be 30 to 50 percent shorter and spread considerably wider than the same species growing in a forest, where it competes for light with its tall neighbors. On the other hand, a tree growing under favorable conditions in a garden may be a giant compared with its dwarfed and deformed counterpart growing on a wind-blown rocky mountaintop. Climate also has an effect. Plants in the warm parts of their range may grow taller and reach maturity sooner than those of the same species growing in areas with shorter, cooler growing seasons. Once you have a sense of a plant’s eventual size, try to picture its effect on your site when fully mature. That is, consider whether it will be in scale.

Dwarf and pendulous conifers in various hues can give you year-round color without outgrowing their site, above and right.

CREATING BALANCE

Balanced plantings create a sense of security and well-being. To achieve balance, you first need to know what the mature plant’s eventual size and shape will be.

For an informal balance, you might repeat clumps of shrubs and trees that have similar size and structure but are different species. On the other hand, you could achieve a formal balance by using only one species, the plants symmetrical or exactly the same size, such as a line of columnar trees or a closely clipped hedge. Then, too, series of graceful weeping trees or of shrubs, with branches loosely layered like clouds, can soften the line and create a balance somewhere between formal and informal.

This planting features ‘Blue Carpet’ juniper, ‘Garnet’ Japanese maple, and various lighter-hued conifers.

Balance is an important design factor. Weeping trees are graceful and dramatic, but more than one is only suitable for a large landscape.

Scale and Structure in Your Landscape

Scale refers to a plant’s size and mass relative to the objects around it. The right scale determines a plant’s appeal. For example, a massive tree is breathtaking set off by a large expanse of lawn that might dwarf and diminish the charm of smaller trees. A young blue spruce may look perfectly suited to a small yard, but as it soars toward maturity, it will be increasingly out of scale, making the yard look smaller. This isn’t to say that a big plant never looks good in a small space. Structure—the growth habit of a plant—is as important as size. Where a large, dense, imposing evergreen would overwhelm a small space, a single open, airy one, such as a tall, leggy rhododendron, might be the only woody plant a small patio garden needs. However, to enjoy the interest created by several diverse plants in a small space, you could choose a group of small or dwarf species. The dwarf cultivars (cultivated varieties) of boxwood, holly, juniper, and pine add texture without the bulk of standard sizes.

There are tricks of scale you can use to create the illusion of space. As shown in the accompanying illustrations, you can make a shallow garden seem deeper if you place plants with larger leaves up close and plants with smaller leaves farther away, and drastically reduce the size of the plants toward the back. Or you might suggest greater depth by pruning a hedge so that it narrows as it recedes. So, too, you could narrow the path between a pair of hedges as they recede.

Leaf sizes and textures can be used to help small spaces look much larger–and long, narrow expanses seem wider. If you place larger-leaved plants in the foreground and gradually diminish leaf size in the distance, you will create the illusion of greater depth. Conversely, the same plantings viewed from the opposite direction make distant plants appear closer.

Which garden is larger? At first glance you might think that Garden B is larger than Garden A. But as the side views on the bottom pair of illustrations show, the two gardens are of equal size. In Garden B, the designer employed visual tricks. For example, the width of the path is reduced as it approaches the conifers, and the hedge is made narrower. In addition, the hedge in Garden B is pruned to gradually reduce its height as it recedes. The conifer in the foreground is larger than those at the back, and the birdbath is smaller than the one in Garden A. All of these features combine in Garden B to suggest a larger space.

Strategically placed trees and plants can make even a small garden appear large.

Types of Plants

If a plant’s mature size will be suitable, consider other assets it will bring to the design. A property needs both evergreen and deciduous plants to be attractive yearround. Study the plant’s silhouette, and decide whether it will add a contrasting element or conform to and reinforce an existing pattern. Also decide whether the plant’s texture—the size, shape, and mobility of its foliage, the twigginess of its branches, the growth patterns of its bark—will contribute to the overall design. Lastly, look for color in its foliage, flowers, fruit, and bark. The best plants have assets in more than one season, which is especially important in a small garden.

EVERGREENS

Evergreens are major players in landscape design. They serve as permanent color accents, as backdrops, and as year-round screening, and they are the most effective plants for hedges. Evergreens come in an astonishing variety of forms and textures. And their year-round color anchors the garden.

There are two main groups of evergreen trees and shrubs: coniferous (narrow-leaved) and broad-leaved. Coniferous evergreens are cone-bearing plants, most of which have either needlelike leaves, such as pines, or scalelike leaves, such as junipers. Coniferous evergreens can have strikingly different hues and textures. Those with gray-and-silver foliage draw the eye and moderate the intensity of showy garden flowers. Those with bluegray foliage soften nearby greens, enhance the rose in pink flowers, and intensify nearby purples and blues. In winter, many juniper varieties take on tints of plum or purple. Some golden cultivars of the Hinoki false cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa) are so yellow they can assume the role of a flowering shrub, and their color lasts throughout the year. In a small landscape one of these especially colorful evergreens is beautiful—and sufficient.

Evergreen trees and shrubs such as this weeping eastern white pine (Pinus strobus) provide year-round color and interest.

Broad-leaved evergreens have foliage strikingly different from that of the conifers, ranging from the smooth-edged tiny leaves of little-leaf boxwood to the spiny white-margined leaves of variegated English holly and the big, dark leathery leaves of rhododendron. Many broad-leaved evergreens, such as rhododendrons and camellias, are prized for their flowers, and others, such as hollies and cotoneasters, produce colorful berries. Semievergreen species, such as abelias and some magnolias, keep their foliage all winter in the warm parts of their range but lose it in cooler parts. Some broadleaved genera—barberry, rhododendron, and holly, among others—include both evergreen and deciduous species, an important difference.

The term evergreen has caused misconceptions. Although the plants are always green, their individual leaves are not. Older leaves are shed, but not all at once and often unnoticeably. The yellowing of the inner, older leaves of a pine or hemlock is a normal part of its cycle of renewal. On the other hand, larches and a few other conifers are deciduous; larch needles turn a glorious yellow-gold in autumn and drop as winter arrives.

Evergreens can be broad-leaved, such as the rhododendron at right, or narrow-leaved, such as the spruce at left.

HABIT

TREES

SHRUBS

Another important asset of a woody plant is its form, or structure, referred to as its habit. Although the environment influences the eventual shape of individual trees and shrubs, the genetic makeup of each species determines its general structure. Select a variety of shapes that fit your design, and they will add to the variety of forms in your landscape. Even if you plan to modify a plant’s shape by pruning or shearing, choosing a plant with the desired habit will make modifications easier.

DECIDUOUS PLANTS

Deciduous trees and shrubs lose their leaves at the end of each growing season. In winter, the branching structures and twiggy silhouettes of naked trees and shrubs have intrinsic beauty and can contribute as much to a landscape’s composition as their fresh green foliage in spring and their bright colors in fall. Bark can be an asset in all seasons. The rugged fissured trunk of an ancient oak, the beautiful exfoliating bark of the Heritage river birch, and the colorful stems of shrubby red- and goldentwigged dogwoods are especially important in winter. Tartarian and red-osier dogwoods (Cornus alba and C. stolonifera) stand out in snowy landscapes.

During the growing season, deciduous trees and shrubs contribute foliage, flowers, and fruit. Many deciduous trees and shrubs are prized primarily for their foliage. Some, such as the maples, provide welcome shade in summer; others, such as the graceful weeping willow, are valued for their beautiful form. These “foliage” trees and shrubs add texture and color to the garden, and some provide color accents all season long. Some striking examples include purple European beech (Fagus sylvatica ‘Cuprea’), lemon yellow spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘Limemound’), purple smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’), and the red, bronze, and violet Japanese maples. Autumn can be a breathtaking high point for deciduous trees and shrubs—the brilliant foliage of maples, black gums, viburnums, witch hazels, and many others sets fire to the fall landscape.

Hundreds of showy flowering deciduous trees and shrubs contribute color from earliest spring through early fall and, in milder climates, throughout the year. The wealth of species and cultivars and the variety of colors, forms, and blooming periods are staggering.

The challenge is to decide the trees, shrubs, and hedges you like best of those likely to fit in and to succeed in your landscape plan. For example, the flowers of some make giant bouquets; you’ll get outstanding seasonal color in spring from the flowering fruit trees and in summer from the hydrangeas. There are witch hazels that send out their ribbonlike flowers in fall or winter. The flowers of some trees and shrubs, such as the variegated dogwoods and purple-leaved cherries, are accompanied by distinctive foliage. The flowers of others, such as fragrant viburnums, mock oranges, and osmanthus, yield a heady perfume.

Giant dogwood (Cornus controversa ‘Variegata’)

Deciduous trees change with the seasons. The same tree is pictured here as it appears, in spring, summer. fall, and winter.

As the blooming seasons end, many flowering trees and shrubs develop colorful fruits. In fact, showy fruits may be the primary reason to select some species. For example, winterberry’s brilliant orange-red berries compensate for its unremarkable leaves and inconspicuous flowers. Others, such as the dogwoods and viburnums, add colorful fruits to their already impressive list of assets.

Most ornamental plants bear male and female sex organs in the same flower or are monoecious and bear them in different flowers on the same plant. Yet some horticulturally important ornamentals, including many of the hollies, are dioecious, meaning the sexes are borne on different plants. To ensure berries on female hollies, you must plant a compatible male nearby. One male can pollinate several females; check with your supplier about optimal plant spacing. In the case of the dioecious ginkgo, you can have its arresting form and golden fall color while avoiding the female’s foul-smelling fruit by selecting only male trees.

Ginkgo

Japanese maple

In planning for fall color, consider the effect of a single deciduous tree, such as a ginkgo, shown at left, or a Japanese maple, shown below against a wall of dark conifers.

Female holly plant

Male holly plant

Holly plants are either male or female. If you want your female hollies, left, to set fruit, you will need at least one male of a compatible cultivar nearby to provide pollen. Female flowers have a large green knoblike pistil. Males, right, have a tiny pistil and yellowish stamens with pollen.

Choosing the Right Plant

The right plant in the right place is the plant most likely to be healthy and beautiful. The right trees, shrubs, and hedges for you are those that grow vigorously in your environment and require almost no help in fighting pests or diseases. Many such plants are new hybrids of popular ornamentals developed by far-sighted researchers and commercial breeders. Look for improved dogwoods, pestresistant crabapples, mildew-free crape myrtles, even disease-resistant elms. Other good plants are the rugged—but lovely—native trees and shrubs that are becoming available as nurseries recognize the growing interest in naturalized landscapes and the hardiness and utility of native species.

Nature’s diversity ensures survival. Monoculture, where many individuals of one species are planted together, invites pests and diseases. You can help avoid infestations by selecting species different from those most common in your neighborhood. Often the most popular and overbred plants, such as roses, are the most vulnerable. Look for cultivars advertised as pest- or disease-resistant in your area, and deal with a reliable local nursery. Or consult your local U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Cooperative Extension Service.

With the exception of certain conifers, trees and shrubs grown from cuttings or grafted onto a sturdy rootstock more consistently reproduce desirable characteristics than seed-grown plants. A stem or bud from a desirable species grafted onto the root system of a plant selected for strength and disease resistance almost always results in a superior plant. There are some exceptions, however. For spruces, pines, firs, and larches, you’re better off buying seed-grown stock because the cuttings don’t train upright reliably. If you want special cultivars of these conifers—say, dwarf, pendulous, or colored—shop for plants grown from cuttings.

Young ash trees are handsome in small spaces, but mature trees, such as this green ash, can reach at least 50 ft. tall. Anticipating eventual size will save headaches later.

The dove tree’s eventual 20- to 40-ft. size may serve your plans. Its white flowerlike bracts, above, bloom lavishly every other year.

Few trees feature flower-and-leaf combinations as large as those of the tulip tree, right, but the species grows so fast and tall you’ll soon need binoculars to view bees at work. Dwarf forms keep their flowers in closer proximity.

Is the Light Right?

When you plan your landscape, consider the availability and intensity of light throughout the year. Most plants tolerate a range of light but have specific conditions in which they perform at their best. Large trees generally grow best in full sun. Many flowering trees and shrubs require full sun for abundant blooms, and some require full sun to bloom at all. Those that evolved in the partial shade of tall trees—for example, small trees such as redbud and dogwood—perform equally well in partial or dappled shade and some even in full shade. Shade-loving plants may thrive in the weak sunlight of spring and fall, but they’re likely to suffer in the bright, harsh summer sun, especially in warmer regions. To determine optimal light conditions for particular trees and shrubs, consult the profiles later in this book as well as your local supplier or garden center. The following definitions will help you determine the conditions that you have on your property.

Full sun—a daily minimum of six hours of direct unobstructed sun.

Semisunny or partial shade—a daily minimum of four to six hours of direct sun.

Light shade or dappled shade—sunlight under tall trees and under trees with sparse foliage.

Shade or full shade—no direct sun; this occurs on the north side of structures and under dense leaf canopies.

Dense shade—shade so deep no shadows are cast; this occurs between tall buildings and under low, close branches.

THE SUN’S PATH

How the sun’s path affects sun and shade. The top three drawings show the effects of sunlight on a property with its front yard facing south. The bottom three drawings show the sun’s effects on the same property if its front yard were facing east. Before you select woody plants for various sites, try to create a perspective sketch of your own property, with its south side in the foreground and its north side in the background. Include your house and other shade-casting structures.

Note: the sun tracks from east to west. Its angle from the horizon is about twice as high in midsummer (as shown) as in midwinter. Plantings on the north side of a house can be in shade most of the day. Those on the east side of the house receive morning sun and afternoon shade. Those on the west side receive afternoon sun and morning shade. And those on the south side may receive sun nearly all day, unless structures or plantings cast shade there. These are important points to remember when planning your landscape—in the warm South, all-day sun can be too intense for plants near the limit of their heat tolerance, for example.

Choose Native Trees, Shrubs, and Hedges

Most of the plants we use in American horticulture are not native to this continent. They were introduced from other parts of the world for their ornamental value. For the most part, these exotic species have done exactly what they were brought here to do. Many are well adapted but require a bit of extra care to grow best. Some compete a bit too well, escape the confines of cultivation, and cause a variety of problems for wildlife and native plants. On the other hand, native plants offer a better way to garden that eliminates the added work and worry associated with exotics.

Native plants support local wildlife. Native plants are indigenous to a particular ecosystem or region. Although the term “native” is often applied broadly, a localized definition is helpful for landscape planning. The plants that come from your particular bioregion evolved in the climate and soils where you live, alongside the insects, mammals, and birds that live there or migrate through. Including a high percentage of native trees, shrubs, and hedges is one of the best ways to build a resilient landscape that also welcomes wildlife.

Invasive plants outcompete native plants and hurt wildlife. Various organizations will have different definitions of what constitutes an invasive plant. For the purposes of this book, an invasive plant is one that is non-native to a given area but is known to cause harm when introduced. Invasive species easily escape cultivation and spread to adjacent areas where they will outcompete and displace native species. They will also harm the local wildlife, as they don’t offer the same habitat benefits that the displaced native species once did. Consult your state’s agriculture extension service for information about native plants.

Your state’s agriculture extension service is a great resource to learn more about native plants. Many people choose invasive plants because they are familiar, appealing to the eye, and readily available. Often, though, if presented with some of the facts about invasive plants, buyers will choose native alternatives—if not for the ecological benefits, then for the maintenance aspect, as invasive plants require much more upkeep. One of the best places to find alternatives for invasive plants is any state’s agriculture extension service. Another good resource is the US Forest Service. Due to the size and ecological diversity of the US, some of the best resources for any individual will be regional or smaller. Finding sources for locally native plants can be challenging, although it has become easier in recent years. Most retail garden centers carry the most popular, eye-catching selections. They often stock many “native” plants that only fit the broadest definition of the word, so it is best to do some research ahead of your visit and confirm the origins of your selections before buying. If you provide the seller a plant list ahead of time, they may be willing to place a special order for the plants you need. Some of the best native plant suppliers are independent nurseries.

Native plants require less care and make your landscaping resilient. Choose natives for their beauty and ease of care. Locally native plants thrive with less maintenance than non-natives. They generally do not need to be fertilized or watered once they have become established. In fact, when deep-rooted native trees and shrubs are planted in place of traditional lawn grasses, they have proven to increase the soil’s water storage capacity. They also tolerate most insect and disease pressure without treatment. Your native plant selections can even help conserve rare or threatened plant species that have dwindled due to loss of natural habitat within their range.

Invasive Species: Think Twice before Planting!

Although the plants in this section may be abundantly available in your area and recommended by neighbors, older gardening manuals, or landscapers, you should refrain from planting them, as they can escape cultivation easily and crowd out wildlife-friendly native species. For substitute planting suggestions, see the next section of the book.

High allergen: likely to irritate a person’s allergies due to high pollen production

Low allergen: less likely to irritate a person’s allergies, as pollen production is low

Messy: may require frequent cleanup due to the dropping of pods, seeds, fruit, leaves, etc.

Toxic: can cause harm to people or animals if consumed

Callery Pear

also called “Flowering Pear”

Pyrus calleryana

Growth rate: 13"–24" per year

messy

The flowering pears are the ornamental varieties bred for improved flowers: the dwarfed fruits are useful only to birds. Pear trees grown for their fruit belong to the species Pyrus communis.

Most ornamental pears are cultivars of the callery pear (Pyrus calleryana); the best known of the cultivars is the Bradford pear (P. x ‘Bradford’) , a species that has become highly invasive in North America and which should not be planted in landscapes. Large for a flowering fruit tree, this cultivar in early to midspring covers itself with showy clusters of small white blossoms. The glossy dense foliage turns an attractive wine red in fall and persists into November. The small fruits are russet. Tolerant of urban conditions and resistant to the fireblight that plagues pears, the Bradford pear was once planted extensively as a street tree and park specimen. However, the Bradford pear has an enormous genetic flaw. Unless pruned aggressively when young to remove many of its closely grouped branches along a relatively short length of trunk, the excessive weight of branches in the wind or under heavy snow can split the tree. Some Bradfords can reach maturity without splitting, but the close branching of most Bradfords leaves them more likely to self-destruct before completing their second decade.

Bradford pear (Pyrus calleryana ‘Bradford’)

Bradford pear (Pyrus calleryana ‘Bradford’)

These photos compare the unfortunate, and usually fatal, close branching of the Bradford pear, at left, and the more open structure of the Redspire cultivar, at right.

Several new cultivars avoid this problem. ‘Capital’, a 32-foot United States National Arboretum introduction, has a columnar form suited to narrow sites. The leaves turn a coppery color in fall and last through the season. It thrives in Zones 5–6, but farther south fireblight can become a problem. Other improved callery pear cultivars are ‘Cleveland Select’, ‘Redspire’, and the narrow ‘Whitehouse’.

The Ussurian pear (P. ussuriensis) is the hardiest of the Pyrus species and the least susceptible to fireblight. Hardy in Zones 3 or 4–6, it is a spreading tree 30 to 40 feet tall that bears pink-tinged flower buds opening to white, followed by fruits 1 to 1 inches in diameter. The fruits are faintly sweet but messy.

Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana ‘Capital’)

Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana ‘Autumn Blaze’) fruit

Bradford pear (Pyrus calleryana ‘Bradford’) in spring and fall (inset)

FEATURED PROFILE

Callery, or Flowering, Pear

Botanical Name:Pyrus calleryana ‘Redspire’ Family: Rosaceae Type of Plant: midsize deciduous flowering tree Uses: showy spring flowers; fall color; street tree; lawn specimen Genus Range: China Hardiness: USDA Zones 4 or 5–8 Height: 30 to 35 feet Growth Rate: medium Form & Habit: narrow, pyramidal Bloom Period: early spring Flowers: large clusters of white flowers Foliage: green, then crimson and purple in fall Soil & pH: well-drained; pH 5.0 to 6.5 Light & Moisture: full sun or dappled shade; medium moisture Pruning Seasons: after flowering

Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana ‘Redspire’)

Chinese Elm

also called “Lacebark Elm”

Ulmus parvifolia

Growth rate: 13"–24"or more per year

high-allergen genus

messy

The tall, stately American elm (Ulmus americana) once dominated street plantings and the countryside but has been all but wiped out by Dutch elm disease introduced from Europe in 1930. The disease-resistant 40- to 50-foot Chinese, or lacebark, elm (U. parvifolia) was once thought to make an excellent substitute, but it is now considered invasive. The cultivar ‘Allee’ (‘Emer 11 feet) is one of several introductions with a structure that closely resembles that of the American elm. It grows fast to 50 feet and has a beautiful round-top habit.

American elm (Ulmus americana)

Weeping Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia ‘Sempervirens’)

Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia)

Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia)

The leaves are dark green, and the trunk and branches have attractive gray-orange bark that exfoliates in lacy patches. Adaptable to many types of soils and climates, it succeeds from the Atlantic to the Pacific coasts, Zones 4 or 5–9.

FEATURED PROFILE

Chinese, or Lacebark, Elm

Botanical Name:Ulmus parvifoliaFamily: Ulmaceae Type of Plant: tall deciduous shade tree Uses: street or specimen tree; shade; winter interest Native Range: northern and central China, Korea, and Japan Hardiness: USDA Zones 5–9 Height: 40 to 50 feet in cultivation Growth Rate: medium to fast Form & Habit: vase-shaped; round-headed with arching branches at maturity Bloom Period: August–September Flowers: inconspicuous clusters Fruits: ⅓ inches samaras that ripen September–October Foliage: elliptical, ¾ to 2½ inches long; in summer lustrous dark green; yellowish or reddish purple in fall Soil & pH: adapts to soil and pH Light & Moisture: sun or shade; averse to excessively wet soil Pruning Seasons: late fall or early winter

Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia)

Butterfly Bush

also called “Summer Lilac”

Buddleia

Growth Rate: over 24" per year

The buddleias are enduring deciduous flowering shrubs and small trees that attract butterflies with their fragrance. Most common is Buddleia davidii, hardy in Zones 5 or 6 to 9, which grows 6 to 8 feet in a single season and, from July until frost, shoots out slim arching canes that sweep the ground. Unfortunately, this species is highly invasive and should never be planted in landscapes. In late summer, they are tipped with 4- to 10-inch spikes of orange-centered, lightly scented florets. The flowers’ rich nectar attracts hummingbirds and bees as well as butterflies. The leaves are gray-green, narrow, 4 to 10 inches long and silvery on the underside. Among the beautiful widely available cultivars are ‘White Bouquet’, ‘Pink Delight’, and dark purple-violet ‘Black Knight’. ‘Harlequin’ bears reddish purple flowers; its new foliage is edged with yellow that changes to creamy white.

Alternate-leaf butterfly bush (Buddleia alternifolia)

Orange ball tree (Buddleia globosa)

FEATURED PROFILE

Butterfly Bush, or Summer Lilac

Botanical Name:Buddleia davidiiFamily: Loganiaceae Type of Plant: deciduous flowering shrub Uses: shrub and perennial borders, rose garden filler, wild garden Native Range: western China Hardiness: USDA Zones 5 or 6–9 Height: 6 to 8 feet Growth Rate: fast Form & Habit: erect or arching, rounded Bloom Period: mid-July until frost Flowers: tiny fragrant florets, orange at the mouth, borne on flowering spikes 4 to 10 inches long Fruits: inconspicuous ¼- to ⅓ inches- long capsules Foliage: lance-shaped, gray- to blue-green, 4 to 10 inches, dark green above, white-silver beneath, woolly Soil & pH: well-drained, fertile; neutral pH Light & Moisture: full sun; doesn’t tolerate wet feet Pruning Seasons: late winter, early spring; deadhead to enhance flower production

Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii)

Scotch Heather

Calluna vulgaris

Scotch heather (Calluna vulgaris), a slow-growing little evergreen shrub, blooms in late summer on the moors of northern England, Scotland, and other parts of Europe and is considered invasive in North America. The species is a 3-foot plant with ascending branches covered with tiny, overlapping, dark green scalelike leaves. The flowers consist of dense clusters of small, pink-topurple bell- or urn-shaped florets and cover the plant in a haze of color that attracts honeybees. In gardens, Scotch heather has been used as an edging plant, in front of shrubs and in rock gardens, to give texture and substance to flowering borders. It also makes a good naturalized ground cover along roadsides and on slopes. Indoors, heather is a long-lasting cut flower that is excellent for drying.

There are hundreds of cultivars of Scotch heather, blooming from summer through fall. ‘Alba Plena’, a lovely plant, bears double white flowers in September and October. ‘County Wicklow’, a beautiful old favorite with double true pink flowers, blooms in August. ‘H. E. Beale’ has silvery foliage and bears double silvery pink flowers in September and October. In late winter, the leafy tips of ‘Spring Torch’ are fiery red; the flowers are lavender-pink. ‘Gold Haze’ sports pale gold shoots year-round; in August and September, it bears white flowers.

Corbett red heather (Calluna vulgaris ‘Corbett Red’)

Scotch heather (Calluna vulgaris ‘Wickwar Flame’, ‘Red Wings’, ‘Silver Queen’) in foreground

FEATURED PROFILE

Scotch-Heather

Botanical Name:Calluna vulgarisFamily: Ericaceae Type of Plant: low evergreen flowering shrub Uses: edging, in flowering borders, as a ground cover Native Range: northern England, Europe, Asia Minor; naturalized in eastern North America Hardiness: USDA Zones 4 or 5–7 Height: 18 to 24 inches Growth Rate: slow Form & Habit: upright branching mat Bloom Period: August to October Flowers: 1 to 10 inches racemes of bell- or urn-shaped florets Fruits: insignificant capsules in October Foliage: closely packed, tiny scalelike evergreen leaves give the stems a squarish look Soil & pH: well-drained; pH 6.0 or less Light & Moisture: full sun for best flowering; tolerates partial shade; sustained moisture Pruning Seasons: before growth begins in winter; deadhead after flowering

Scotch heather (Calluna vulgaris ‘Blazeaway’)

Woadwaxen

Genista tinctoria

The woadwaxen are low-growing deciduous and semievergreen shrubs native to Europe, Asia, and Africa. Members of the pea family, they resemble broom (Cytisus). In spring they are covered with masses of showy pealike yellow flowers, which are followed by dried pods. Their leaves are insignificant. In winter, genista stems remain green, adding an attractive touch of color to the garden. The genistas are useful edgers and look handsome in rock gardens. They thrive with little care on sunny slopes and, because they grow rapidly, they can be used to control erosion on dry infertile sandy slopes and, unfortunately, have become invasive.

The hardiest species is woadwaxen, or dyer’s greenwood (Genista tinctoria), which grows in Zones 4 or 5–7 and was once used to make dyes. An erect twiggy shrub about 3 feet high and wide, it has spiny stems and bright green leaves about an inch long. In June, it covers itself with clusters of bright yellow flowers; the shrub may bloom again if cut back after flowering. It has naturalized in parts of North America. ‘Royal Gold’ is a 2-foot cultivar.

Silky-leaf woadwaxen (Genista pilosa ‘Vancouver gold’)

Lydia woadwaxen (Genista lydia ‘Primula’)

There are even shorter species. Silkyleaf woadwaxen (G. pilosa