Weatherproofing E-Book

Skills Institute Press

• Herausgeber: Fox Chapel Publishing
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2018

Seitenzahl: 142

Beschreibung

Whether you need to add insulation in your attic or weather-strip your doors, this book has the details that you need to keep your home comfortable year round.

Leseprobe

Seal the air leaks around plumbing penetrations underneath a home with an insulating expandable foam sealant.

Table of Contents

Chapter 1:Keeping a House Snug and Tight

• Blocking Drafts Around Windows

• Weather-Stripping Doors

• Plugging Up Cracks

Chapter 2:Battling Moisture

• Channeling Water with Gutters and Downspouts

• Laying Underground Drains

• Diverting Water from Foundations

• Plugging Leaks in a Damp Basement

• Expelling Water with a Sump Pump

• Indispensable Openings: Vents for Airflow

Chapter 3:Shielding Against Heat and Cold

• Key Areas for Potential Heat Loss

• Checking for Adequate Insulation

• Deciding How Much to Add

• Choosing the Right Materials

• Attics—Where Insulation Pays Off Most

• Getting Insulation Into Exterior Walls

• Solving the Special Problems of Unheated Areas

• Shielding Heated Basements and Crawl Spaces

• An Array of Storm Windows

• Installing a Storm Door

• Blocking Out the Sun

Chapter 4:Protecting Your Home from Disaster

• Windproofing a Picture Window

• Chimney Ties for Earth Tremors

• Coping with the Chaos of Floods

Index

What You Can Learn

Keeping a House Snug and Tight,page 8

A few dollars spent to seal leaks around windows and doors will come back to you many times over.

Battling Moisture, page 30

Water is more likely to cause damage to your home than any other element unless steps are taken to prevent it.

Shielding Against Heat and Cold, page 72

Keeping your home properly insulated will keep it warm in winter and cool in the summer.

Protecting Your Home from Disaster,page 124

Since no area of the country is truly immune to natural disasters, it is important to protect your home ahead of time.

CHAPTER 1

Keeping a House Snug and Tight

Weatherproofing a home is a matter of establishing priorities. It’s best to focus your efforts where they will do the most good—and save you the most money. The first areas to address are leaky doors and windows. For most homes, this means finding and filling small openings all over the house. A few dollars spent applying weather stripping and sealing gaps will be repaid many times over.

Blocking Drafts Around Windows

■ Applying Gaskets and Strips

■ Attaching Spring Strips

■ Covering a Window with an Insulator Kit

■ Strategies for Casement Windows

■ Horizontal Sliding Windows

Weather-Stripping Doors

■ Sealing Door Openings

■ Adding a Door Sweep

■ Installing a Weatherproof Threshold

■ Strips for a Garage Door

Plugging Up Cracks

■ Sealing Exterior Gaps

■ Plugging Large Openings

■ Reglazing Windows

Blocking Drafts Around Windows

Gaps around doors and windows are the main causes of air leakage in most homes. Sealing these gaps with weather stripping can reduce heating and air-conditioning costs by as much as 30 percent.

PREPARING WINDOWS

Before applying stripping, make sure the windows work properly. Try scraping or sanding paint or dirt off the sashes and their channels.

A RANGE OF SOLUTIONS

One of the simplest ways to block window drafts in winter is with an inexpensive window insulator kit (pages 14-15). A plastic membrane is hung over the window and secured with double-faced tape. It can then be shrunk, forming a nearly invisible seal.

More permanent and versatile products include metal, plastic, rubber, and vinyl weather stripping (right). For double-hung and sliding windows, spring-metal or vinyl flanges work well. Invisible when the window is shut, these products are secured along only one edge; the other edge springs out to block leaks. Tubular gaskets seal better than spring strips, but are not as durable. Adhesive-backed foam tapes are a good choice for casement windows.

SAFETY TIP

Protect your eyes with goggles when driving nails.

TOOLS

MATERIALS

■ Tape measure

■ Tubular gaskets

■ Hammer

■ Adhesive-backed foam stripping

■ Nail set

■ Utility knife

■ Spring strips

■ Screwdriver

■ Casement window gasket

■ Tin snips

■ Vinyl-to-metal adhesive

■ Blow-dryer

■ Window insulator kit

WEATHER STRIPPING FOR WINDOWS

With the vast array of products available, there is probably one for every need. It’s a good idea to spend some time browsing the offerings at your hardware store. Here is a sample of some of the most popular types. Most packages contain enough material to cover at least one window, and include nails or screws. Weather stripping with adhesive backing is popular because it is much easier to attach than the type requiring fasteners.

APPLYING GASKETS AND STRIPS

Nailing on tubular gaskets

Close the sashes. From outside the house, measure and cut lengths of tubular gaskets to fit the top, bottom, and sides of the upper sash; and the bottom and sides of the lower sash. Nail gaskets to the exterior stops, stretching the strip slightly so the tube-shaped part of the strip is tight and straight against the sash. Nail a strip along the bottom edge of the lower sash rail (above, left) and the top edge of the upper sash rail so the gaskets press tightly against the frame when the window is shut. Raise the lower sash out of the way and pull down the upper sash, then secure a strip to the underside of the upper sash’s bottom rail flush with the inside edge (above, right). This strip will seal the gap between the upper and lower sashes when the window is shut.

Applying adhesive-backed strips

Adhesive-backed foam stripping works best on friction-free surfaces such as the underside of the bottom rail of lower sashes. Wipe the window frame clean. Slowly pull the protective backing off the strip as you press the adhesive against the surface (right).

ATTACHING SPRING STRIPS

Measuring the strips

On double-hung windows, spring strips are installed in the side channels of the upper and lower sashes, on the top and bottom rails of the upper sash, and on the bottom rail of the lower sash. The metal type is shown on this page; vinyl V-strips are installed similarly, but with self-adhesive backing. For the four side-channel strips, close the upper sash, raise the lower sash, and measure from the bottom of the channel to a point 2 inches above the bottom rail of the upper sash (above). Cut the strips to length with tin snips. For the sash strips, measure the bottom rail of the lower sash from channel to channel and cut three strips to length.

Fitting the side-channel strips

Open the lower sash as high as it will go and clean loose paint or dirt from the channels. With its nailing flange against the inside edge of the channel, slip the end of a lower-sash strip into the gap between the sash and channel (above) and slide it up until its bottom end is flush with the bottom of the channel. Repeat for the opposite lower-sash channel.

Securing the side-channel strips

Nail each strip to the channel up to the bottom rail of the lower sash (right). Drop the lower sash and fasten the part of the strips that extend 2 inches above the bottom rail of the upper sash. Lower the upper sash and install the upper-sash strips in the channels by slipping them into position from the top.

Fastening top and bottom strips

Nail a strip to the top of the upper sash’s top rail, positioning the nailing flange along the inside face of the window (above, left). Hammer gently to avoid cracking the glass.

Fasten a strip to the underside of the bottom sash’s lower rail (above, right). Tighten the seal on both strips as shown above.

Tightening the seal

With moderate pressure, run a wide-blade screwdriver down the crease in each strip a few times (left), until the strip presses firmly against the sash. This will increase the spring action of the strips, providing a better seal.

The center strip

Secure the last sash strip on the inside face of the upper sash’s bottom rail (right); orient the nailing flange along the rail’s top edge. To ensure the sashes slide smoothly (below), sink the nail heads below the surface of the flange by tapping them with a nail set. Complete the job by tightening the seal of this strip as shown on page 13.

COVERING A WINDOW WITH AN INSULATOR KIT

Applying the tape

Insulator kits usually come with a roll of double-sided tape and enough plastic film to cover a large double-hung window. Clean the window frame of all dust, dirt, and loose paint. Make sure the frame is dry. Apply a length of tape along each side of the frame. Trim the ends so there is no gap or overlap.

Hanging the plastic flim

Measure the distance between the outside edges of the tape strips and add 2 inches to each side. Lay out the plastic film on a flat surface and cut it to size. Position the film over the opening, pressing it very lightly on the tape. Reposition the film as needed, then press it firmly in place (above).

Tightening the film

Remove all the wrinkles from the film with a blow-dryer set to maximum heat. With the nozzle ¼ inch from the film, pass the dryer over the plastic (above). To avoid melting the plastic, keep the dryer in constant motion, and do not let it touch the film.

Trimming the film

With a utility knife, cut the film flush with the outside edges of the tape (right). To remove the film at the end of winter, pull the plastic off the tape, then slowly peel the tape off the window frame.

STRATEGIES FOR CASEMENT WINDOWS

Sealing metal casements

Metal casement windows can be weatherproofed with vinyl gaskets that have a deep groove designed to slip easily onto all four sides of the frame. Trim the gaskets to fit, mitering their ends at 45 degrees. Apply vinyl-to-metal adhesive to the frame and press the gasket in place (right).

Wood casement windows

New wood casement windows have built-in weather-proofing, but older ones can be sealed with spring strips (page 12). Fasten the strip with the nailing flange on the outside edge of the frame toward the sash; the window will compress the strip when it closes (left).

HORIZONTAL SLIDING WINDOWS

Sealing sliding windows

New wood sliding windows have weather stripping built in between the frame and the sash. Older types, however, may need sealing. For windows with one sliding sash (above), seal only the movable part. Fasten a spring strip in the side channel that the movable sash closes against. Secure tubular gaskets (page 11) to the exterior surface of the sliding sash along the top, bottom, and outside rails. Make sure that the gasket on the outside rail fits snugly against the fixed sash when the window is closed. If both sashes move, seal the window with spring strips as for a double-hung window (pages 12-14).

REPLACEMENT SASH KITS FOR DOUBLE-HUNG WINDOWS

Fitting replacement sashes from a kit is an easy and effective way to seal timeworn double-hung windows—and at the same time make them operate more smoothly.

In contrast to putting in new windows and frames, very little carpentry is required. First, the sash stops, parting stops, sashes, and any rope-and-pulley system are removed. The jamb-liner clips supplied are then tacked to the jambs, the jamb liners and parting stops are fitted in place, the new sashes are installed, and the old sash stops are nailed to the jambs.

Because these replacement sashes usually have to be custom made to fit the window opening, they can cost almost as much as new windows with frames; however, their ease of installation is a decided advantage.

Weather-Stripping Doors

Doors cannot be closed as tightly as windows, so they are more difficult to seal. But a variety of products—weather stripping, thresholds, and sweeps—keep air from leaking through.

STRAIGHTENING A DOOR

Weather stripping can’t do its job properly on a binding door. Before applying any product, adjust the hinges and sand or plane the door edges until the door opens and closes smoothly with a narrow, uniform gap between edges and jamb.

A door may bind because loose hinge screws make it sag. If the screws don’t hold, replace them with longer ones. Or, drill out the screw hole, glue in a length of dowel, and bore a new pilot hole for the screw. If this does not solve the problem, plane or rasp the binding door edge.

BLOCKING DOOR DRAFTS

Door sweeps and weatherproof thresholds seal the bottom of swinging doors (pages 21-22), while garage doors require a special type of weather stripping to provide a tight seal against uneven concrete floors (page 23).

Simple to apply, self-adhesive V-strips are commonly used to weather-strip doors. These doubled-over strips of vinyl fit between door edges and jambs, filling gaps. V-strips are not as sturdy as doorstop stripping, which can be more tricky to apply. Installation of both products is described on page 20.

SAFETY TIP

Always wear safety goggles when driving nails.

TOOLS

MATERIALS

■ Hammer

■ 2 X 4

■ Screwdriver

■ V-strip weather stripping

■ Pry bar

■ Door sweep

■ Utility knife

■ Door-stop weather stripping

■ Tin snips

■ Weatherproof threshold

■ Hacksaw

■ Garage door weather stripping

■ Backsaw

■ Wood chisel and mallet

AN ARRAY OF PRODUCTS

Weatherproof thresholds seal the bottom of doors best, but the easiest product to install is a sweep fastened under or against the bottom edge of a door.

Weather stripping attaches to the jambs at the sides and top—usually to the door-stop molding—so its flexible edges press against the door face when it is closed. You can choose from a variety of shapes depending on the shape and size of gap you need to seal. Widely used products include wood, metal, and plastic doorstop strips edged with plastic tubing or foam, and closed-cell adhesive-backed foam tapes.

Unless the product is self-adhesive, fasteners are generally included in the package. Some products may come with specific installation instructions.

SEALING DOOR OPENINGS

Installing V-stripping

With a utility knife or tin snips, cut strips for both sides and the top of the door, trimming the pieces as necessary to accommodate the hinges and lock. Remove the backing paper and position a strip along the jamb with the point of the V facing the door and the other edge about ⅛ inch from the stop. Press the strip in place (above).

Attaching door-stop stripping

With tin snips, cut strips the same length as the stops at the top and sides of the door. With the door closed, position the top piece against the top stop, lightly pressing the flexible edge against the door. With a helper holding the stripping in place, slide a piece of paper between the door and the flexible edge—it should barely slide. Adjust the position of the strip as necessary, then nail it to the jamb. Position the strips along the sides of the door (above), then nail them in place.

ADDING A DOOR SWEEP

Attaching a standard door sweep

Working outside with the door closed, measure the width of the door and cut the sweep to length with tin snips. Position the sweep so it fits snugly against the threshold when the door is shut while allowing the door to operate smoothly. Screw the sweep to the door (right). The oblong screw holes allow you to adjust the sweep up or down as needed.

Fastening a bottom sweep

With tin snips, cut the sweep to the width of the door. Open the door and slip the sweep on the bottom of the door (left). If necessary, adjust the width of the sweep to the door thickness by squeezing the sides together. Close the door, let the sweep drop onto the threshold, and drive the screws partway into their slots. Adjust the height of the sweep so it is snug, but not so tight that the door binds. Tighten the screws.

INSTALLING A WEATHERPROOF THRESHOLD

Removing the existing threshold

Cover the floor around the door with pieces of cardboard secured by masking tape. Try to remove the threshold with a pry bar. If it does not lift up easily, cut through each end with a backsaw (right) and pry up the center piece; chip out the rest of the threshold with a chisel and mallet. Clean the sill.

Fitting the threshold

With a hacksaw, cut the new threshold to fit snugly between the side jamb. If necessary, trim the door stop with a backsaw or chisel to accommodate the threshold. Position the threshold so that the flap side of the flexible seal faces away from the door. Lift up the plastic flap and screw the threshold in place (left). On some thresholds, the screw holes are exposed. Once the piece is attached, slide the flexible insert into place over the screws.

STRIPS FOR A GARAGE DOOR

Sealing a wood overhead door

Before installing weather stripping, paint the bottom of the door to protect it against moisture. Cut the weather stripping to the width of the door with tin snips, a utility knife, or a hacksaw. Pull the door partway down so the bottom is at a convenient height and brace it on a 2-by-4. Position the stripping against the door bottom with the flap facing the outside, then nail it in place. If you have an automatic garage door opener, you may need to recalibrate it to account for the increased door height.

Plugging Up Cracks