A Foodie's Guide to London E-Book

Cara Frost-Sharratt

• Herausgeber: IMM Lifestyle Books
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2016

Seitenzahl: 207

Beschreibung

This beautifully photographed guide to more than 100 of London's finest food experiences, shops, services, and trends is a must-have addition to every food lover's bookshelf. A Foodie's Guide to London will quickly become an indispensable handbook for anyone who visits the capital with culinary inclinations. Author Cara Frost-Sharratt takes readers on a gastronomic tour around London, searching out the best bakers, butchers, cheesemongers, chocolatiers, delicatessens, fishmongers, food halls, farmers' markets, grocers, wine merchants, and world food stores, visiting famous names and uncovering hidden gems. Maps at the beginning of every chapter help you find your way to your chosen attraction, with stunning color photographs of the food and people involved. Whether you're looking for freshly baked bread, exquisite chocolates, or exotic fare from across the globe, London has it all, and this book presents the best of the delights on offer.

Leseprobe

Originally published by New Holland Publishers (UK) LtdPublished 2015—IMM Lifestyle Bookswww.IMMLifestyleBooks.com

IMM Lifestyle Books are distributed in the UK by Grantham Book Service.

In North America, IMM Lifestyle Books are distributed byFox Chapel Publishing1970 Broad StreetEast Petersburg, PA 17520www.FoxChapelPublishing.com

Copyright © 2012, 2015 photographs: Cath HarriesCopyright © 2012, 2015 maps: IMM Lifestyle Books; Maps based on GTM LondonCopyright © 2012, 2015 IMM Lifestyle BooksAll the photographs in this book were taken by Cath Harries.All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publishers and copyright holders.ISBN 978 1 5048 0009 9eISBN 978 1 6076 5289 2

Printed in the United States of America10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

CONTENTS

Introduction

Bakeries

Butchers

Cheesemongers

Chocolatiers

Delicatessens

Fishmongers

Food Halls and Emporiums

Food and Farmers’ Markets

Grocers and Farm Shops

Wine Merchants

World Food

INTRODUCTION

The fall and rise of the independent food shop

The independent food shop has travelled a rocky road over the last hundred years or so. Food shopping was always traditionally done in a number of specific shops, usually on a daily basis. But the rise of the supermarket and the evolution of the family unit gradually led to less time being available for, and allocated to, choosing and buying food. As more families included two working adults, or single working parents, people generally had less time to plan meals, go out shopping and cook time-consuming dishes. Suppertime was no longer set in stone; it became a transient or moveable feast, often dictated not by the time dinner was ready but by when family members were around to eat it. The loss of the dinner table and the flexibility and convenience of the microwave, supermarket and takeaway led to the demise of many small, specialist food shops. Where once every high street had a fishmonger, a baker and probably more than one grocer and butcher, it became more commonplace to find a couple of chain cafes and a convenience supermarket. However, we shouldn’t despair; the independents are busy making a comeback and Londoners are showing their appreciation with their shopping baskets. Once people have enjoyed the exceptional quality and diversity of the food on offer in independent delis, butchers, bakers etc, it is difficult to return to the more anodyne supermarket shop.

Feel-good food

Buying food from specialist shops makes the whole experience more meaningful. Good food nourishes the body but good food shopping will also nourish the soul. If you indulge yourself by spending ten minutes discussing particular cuts of meat with your butcher, or trying a number of farmhouse cheeses before you pick your favourite, you instantly make that food more special and you become a more discerning and appreciative consumer. You are more connected to the food that you buy; you are aware of where it has come from and the time, effort and dedication that has gone into producing it. You haven’t simply picked something from a shelf based on its packaging, its price or its basic usefulness; you have made a conscious decision to choose and buy food that has aroused your senses. You have sought out specific food based on certain credentials and whether this comes down to ethics, flavour, diversity, provenance, customer service, or the overall experience of talking to and buying from specialist purveyors, you have transformed food shopping from an essential chore into a pleasurable pastime.

Culinary hotspots

London is lucky to have a wide range and choice of specialist shops spread out over the whole of the city but whilst researching this book, I discovered certain roads and areas with a disproportionate number of top-notch food emporiums. It’s the old adage of like attracting like and once a brave independent has trail blazed a path, success means it’s easier and less risky for others to follow suit. Gentrification can also lead to clusters of new gourmet-inclined residents following each other to desirable locations. This creates an instant receptive customer base and the cycle of increased amenities and regular custom continues. Once a street or area becomes known for its food shops, people will travel from further afield to avail of this foodie enclave. Lordship Lane in East Dulwich offers a whole road of fantastic independent food shops (many of which you’ll find in this book), whilst Royal Hill in Greenwich includes a gorgeous row of fine gourmet emporiums, tucked away from the tourist mayhem of the centre of town. Marylebone High Street is another great foodie destination, as is Northcote Road in Clapham, where you can do a proper old-fashioned grocery shop in the butcher, bakery, fish stall, cheesemonger and wine merchant. Portobello Road and many of its side streets are worth setting aside time to explore, whilst Borough Market and its immediate environs are on every food lover’s map. However, I’ve realised that you don’t have to walk too far from any tube or train station in central London to discover an exciting food purveyor.

Choosing the shops

It is no small task trying to pick the best food shops in London and when faced with it, I felt a bit daunted at the huge amount of research that lay ahead. With the burgeoning independent food scene in the capital, there is now a wealth of top-quality shops in every niche of the food and drink industry, selling carefully sourced groceries, the tastiest seasonal produce, the most beautiful artisan bread, the freshest fish and meat, the finest wine and the most delicious farmhouse cheeses. So, how to go about narrowing down this impressive selection of food emporiums? The answer is walking…. and miles of it. I explored every part of central London, following up leads and recommendations, re-visiting favourite foodie destinations and chancing upon new ones, narrowing down my shortlist until I had the definitive collection of what I consider to be the best food shops in the capital.

The shops in the book are not all necessarily the biggest in their category; they might not even all have the widest selection of products. But they all have something special, that extra je ne sais quoi that gives you a warm glow inside and makes you walk out feeling happy. They might be quirky, beautiful, stock unique or specialist products, or go above and beyond the call of duty when it comes to service. If you have the same experiences that I did, the staff will be able to tell you exactly where each cheese, bottle of wine or fillet steak comes from, they will take the time to stop for a chat and they will genuinely appreciate your custom. Some are more than shops alone: they have a cafe or restaurant attached, they run courses, tasting evenings or foodie book clubs, they offer free local delivery or they’re active in the local community.

Some of the shops are well known and some you may never have heard of but I hope you get as excited about discovering them as I was. I should point out that this book is very much a subjective work. Whilst there are certain shops with famous names and fine reputations, none have been included purely on the basis of their reputation; they have all earned their place here. I have visited each and every shop and market in the book, wearing out shoes and getting through numerous notebooks on my travels. I’ve discovered new areas of London, fallen back in love with old haunts and met the most amazing people in the process. The dedication and commitment shown by the shop owners, managers and staff is extraordinary; these are the people pioneering the independent food revolution in London and you can support them by voting with your feet.

Using the book

To keep things simple, the book is divided by shop type, with entries in each chapter listed in alphabetical order. Most of the shops are located in zones 1 and 2, with a few special exceptions a little further out. By keeping it central, and concentrating on shops that are easy to get to and easy to find, you can discover the best on offer without having to travel too far. There’s a box at the end of each entry with suggestions for other shops and food-related amenities close by, so you can better plan your time and also so you don’t miss out on anything else in the immediate vicinity.

BAKERIES

Whether you are looking for a loaf of bread to take home, a place to stop for a coffee and a slice of cake, or perhaps an indulgent treat for a special occasion, you can guarantee that London has a bakery to suit. From north to south and east to west, London’s bakeries are unbeatable in terms of quality and diversity. Be it a quick stop at the Breadstall in Clapham (see page 12), a mid-shop lunch break at the Exeter Street Bakery in Kensington (see page 20) or a full blow-out at Konditor & Cook near Waterloo (see page 23), there’s a bakery in the capital to suit all occasions, tastes and budgets.

Breadstall

60 Northcote Road, London SW11 1PA

Tel: [phone]

Opening times: Mon–Sun 8am–6pm

Train: Clapham Junction

Breadstall is like the Winnebago of food stalls. This double-length trailer pays homage to baking and is a permanent fixture on the bustling Northcote Road, providing locals with yet another very good reason to open their wallets. Already spoilt for choice when it comes to independent food purveyors, residents are only too aware that they have lucked out by living here. You’ll appreciate the glorious smell of freshly baked bread and cakes long before you see the stall itself. By the time you reach it, you have little choice but to stop whether you are intending to or not. By stopping however, you’ll do your taste buds one huge favour.

The display is a feast for all the senses and the range is incredible when you consider that most of the sandwiches and hot foods are made fresh on site daily. Raw ingredients are sourced from Italy and all the other baked goods are freshly made and delivered each morning from 12 different independent bakeries. Why so many? Well, that’s down to the fastidious desire for perfection on behalf of the owner Sebastian Vince. Having left a fast-paced career in advertising to set up the business, he has worked hard to stock his stall with the absolute best of everything. So, cupcakes come from one bakery, sausage rolls from another and so on. And with over 600 sausage rolls exchanging hands over the course of a weekend, it’s hardly surprising that so many bakeries are needed to stock Breadstall.

While you’re in the area…

The list is endless for Northcote Road: Hamish Johnston the cheesemonger (page 52) is a close neighbour and it’s a quick step across the road to Dove & Son (page 32) for quality meat. Philglas & Swiggot (page 165) is a lovely independent wine merchant and La Cuisiniere stocks fabulous kitchenware.

Clarke’s

122 Kensington Church Street, London W8 4BH

Tel: [phone]

Opening times: Mon–Fri 8am–8pm, Sat 8am–4pm, Sun 10am–4pm

Tube: Notting Hill Gate

No detail has been overlooked in this achingly beautiful shop just off the main drag of Notting Hill Gate. Here, you can escape from the tourists and commuters into a calm and elegant space that has been devoted to good food. From the baskets of bread that peep out of the window to the chequered, tiled floor and the dark wooden counter laden down with sandwiches, tarts and quiches to take away, this is a lovely bolthole in which to indulge your artisan food habit. A vast antique dresser is neatly stacked with honey, jam and jelly, neat little cellophane packets of biscuits, brownies and brittle, as well as Monmouth coffee, Umbrian lentils and spelt flour. A chilled counter shows off an impressive selection of fresh filled pasta, terrines and prepared meals while a couple of tables are tucked away at the back for anyone who wishes to stay and soak up the atmosphere while devouring their purchases.

The highly regarded Clarke’s restaurant is next-door to the shop. Owner, Sally Clarke, opened it in 1984, with the shop and bakery following a few years later and the businesses work in perfect harmony with each other. The bakery now supplies a huge number of restaurants and shops around the capital, as well as keeping & Clarke’s stocked with a constant supply of freshly baked loaves, from brioche to walnut and raisin, and Stilton bread. All the food you see here is baked on site daily using fresh ingredients and seasonal celebrations see the shelves groan under the weight of speciality foods and ingredients, including homemade Stollen, Easter eggs and turkey stuffing.

While you’re in the area…

Chegworth Farm Shop (page 147) is just across the road and is packed full of fresh organic goodies. James Knight (page 99) is the place to buy gleaming fresh fish and a wide variety of seafood and it’s just a few minutes’ walk away on Notting Hill Gate. The Cupcake Company is a den of sugary treats and is just a few doors along from the bakery.

De Gustibus

53-55 Carter Lane, London EC4V 5AE

Tel: [phone]

Opening times: Mon–Fri 7am-5pm, Sat–Sun closed

Tube: St Paul’s

When Dan and Annette started their baking business from their home in Oxfordshire in 1990, most Londoners were used to having their sandwich fillings slapped between two anaemic slices of days-old white bread. Whilst some people still hand over their hard-earned cash for the food equivalent of cardboard, savvy City workers make a beeline for De Gustibus. Over the intervening years, this artisan bakery has become synonymous with exceptional bread, cakes and biscuits and the original bakery in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, still supplies the shops with a dizzying array of freshly baked bread every single day.

‘Fresh’ is the buzzword here and the spacious, light-filled shop is like an exhibition of bread styles, with loaves lining the inside of the serving counter and filling the stunning window display. People travel here daily from all over the City and beyond for the legendary sourdough and the surprisingly soft and supple 100% rye bread but the choices are endless: there’s a subtle roast onion loaf, sun-dried tomato and olive oil bread, a lovely light pumpernickel style bread made with crushed caraway, and sweet raisin, date and walnut bread (the list goes on). You can either buy the additive-free loaves whole, or queue up and choose your bread and filling for the best sandwich you’ll ever taste. As with the bread, all the fillings are made fresh every day and, when I visited, the specials included British Bangers, and Indian Kofta. But the bestsellers remain the outstanding slow-cooked pork belly, and home-cured salt beef, which they brine themselves.

Other London branches

4 Southwark Street, London SE1 1TQ

While you’re in the area…

If you’re looking for top-quality meat, Porterford (page 41) is just a couple of minutes walk east, on Watling Street. Alternatively, cross over Southwark Bridge and take a tasting tour at Vinopolis or check out Borough Market (page 126) and the numerous food shops that surround it like Neal’s Yard Dairy (page 54) and Monmouth Coffee.

Euphorium

202 Upper Street, London N1 1RQ

Tel: [phone]

Opening times: Mon–Fri 7am–10pm, Sat-Sun 8am–10pm

Tube: Highbury & Islington

The Upper Street branch of this renowned bakery was the first to open and six more shops around London have since followed it. The emphasis here is on seasonal, local, organic ingredients and although plenty of other food producers use these as buzzwords for their business, the proof is quite literally in the pudding at Euphorium. Freshly baked loaves and pastries are dispatched from the downstairs bakery to this and all the other shops every morning and the smell is simply intoxicating.

The window display is laden with loaves and more are piled in neat little stacks behind the counter, with classic varieties such as organic granary and paysan, along with others like pain de campagne, pain blanc and black olive bread. A ‘bread of the day’ adds even more choice; on the day I visited, it was Apple and Spice Brioche. Whilst the emphasis is on bread, there is so much more besides, from sourdough and focaccia sandwiches, to pizza slices, bagels, croissants and cakes.

Whether you just come in for your daily bread, or you linger for a coffee and pastry, there’s a genuine community feel here, so far removed from the characterless atmosphere of many of the café-by-numbers chains. The food is fresh and inviting, the bread is a joy to devour and the staff look like they’re having fun.

Other London branches:

79 Upper Street, London N1 0NU

26a Chapel Market, London N1 9EN

211 Haverstock Hill, London NW3 4QN

45 Southend Road, London NW3 2QB

Thomas Neal’s Centre, 35 Earlham Street, London WC2H 9LD

Whiteleys Shopping Centre, 144 Queensway, London W2 6LY

While you’re in the area…

Try out some of the many wines that are on tap to taste at The Sampler (page 167), which is just across the road. Next, you can indulge your sweet tooth at Paul A. Young (page 68) in cutesy Camden Passage. Finally, head to Ottolenghi (page 84), where you can choose some tasty sweet and savoury take out.

Exeter Street Bakery

1b Argyll Road, London W8 7DB

Tel: [phone]

Opening times: Mon–Sat 8am-7pm, Sun 9am–6pm

Tube: High Street Kensington

This bright, airy bakery and café is just a short stroll away from the crazy high-end consumerism of High Street Kensington and it provides the perfect hideaway if you’re looking for a quiet spot to brace yourself for, or recover from, a hectic shopping spree. The spotless stainless steel counter shows off the impressive selection of pizzas and flatbreads that are made on site every day, whilst the vast range of fresh loaves are baked in the main bakery in Northwest London and delivered to the shop, still warm from the ovens. Exeter Street also sells its bread at food markets and at top-end outlets all around the capital.

A seated counter space wraps around the large windows and from here you have the perfect vantage point to watch the pizzas being created from scratch in the open kitchen. I’d recommend trying mushroom or salami, or keep it simple with a slice of tomato or margherita pizza. The sandwiches are also made daily and the choice ranges from asparagus to prosciutto. Homemade biscotti, grissini, olive biscuits and delights like rosemary shortbread can be purchased to take away and, whatever you do, don’t leave without trying the coffee – it’s very good.

While you’re in the area…

Satiate your sweet tooth at Hotel Chocolat (page 66) on High Street Kensington, or pop into Carluccio’s on the same road for some classy Italian ingredients. Keep walking towards Kensington Road and you’ll come across the incredible Whole Foods Market (page 120), a vast emporium of natural and organic goodies. If you want to head back towards Notting Hill, stop off at & Clarke’s (page 15) and Chegworth Farm Shop (page 147) on your way.

Gail’s

64 Hampstead High Street, London NW3 1QH

Tel: [phone]

Opening times: Mon–Fri 7am-8pm, Sat 7.30am–8pm, Sun 8am–8pm

Tube: Hampstead

With a prime spot on chichi Hampstead High Street, it would seem unlikely that a decent bakery and café could fail to attract the paying public. But the locals have discerning taste and will accept nothing short of perfection on the coffee, bread and cake front. Consistently high quality is the key to earning the loyalty and repeat custom of residents around here and Gail’s is certainly consistent.

The Hampstead shop is the original branch and successive openings around town are testament to the quality products that are produced here. The bread has fired up the tastebuds of Londoners and Gail’s prides itself on its freshly baked loaves that take their inspiration from all over the world. I saw baguettes, French dark sourdough, spelt bread, white sourdough and mixed olive bread stacked up along the bread counter and these are all baked fresh every day. The preservative-free bread is hand-kneaded and slow-fermented to achieve the ultimate in flavour and quality and Gail’s is intent on creating a bread revolution in the capital, one customer at a time.

As well as buying whole loaves to devour at home, you can make yourself comfy and indulge in a coffee and pastry, or a hot snack in the café. Personally, I can’t get enough of the empanadas and the decadent chocolate pecan brownies, which are totally justified after a lengthy stroll on the heath. Despite its numerous branches, Gail’s has managed to maintain a truly local feel with a rare individuality in each of its bakeries. Bread might be a staple food but the loaves here make it so much more than simple sustenance.

Other London branches

64 Northcote Road, London SW11 6QL

282 Chiswick High Road, London W4 1PA

33-35 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QL

138 Portobello Road, London W11 2DZ

75 Salusbury Road, London NW6 6NH

5 Circus Road, London NW8 6NX

While you’re in the area…

Pure Fruit is a lovely local greengrocers just across the road from Gail’s. It is stocked full of fresh, seasonal fruit and vegetables, perfect for filling up the picnic basket ready for a lazy day on Hampstead Heath.

Konditor & Cook

22 Cornwall Road, London SE1 8TW

Tel: [phone]

Opening times: Mon–Fri 7.30am–6.30pm, Sat 8.30am–3pm, Sun closed

Train/Tube: Waterloo

This branch of the much-loved London bakery is by no means the biggest or the most luxuriously decked out. In fact, it’s quite a low-key affair, tucked away down a side street close to Waterloo station. But that’s part of its charm. New branches have been springing up all over London to great acclaim and yet this original shop has remained gloriously unfazed by its rise to fame and continues to serve a steady stream of people in the know. Around the quieter residential streets in Waterloo (yes there are some) it is possibly the worst-kept culinary secret, as locals clamour for the poetic sounding cakes and pastries, the smell of which waft continuously from the front door. And yet, it is so firmly off the beaten track that hapless tourists will indeed feel like they’ve discovered a hidden gem should they chance upon it while trying to make sense of their A–Z. The lush, plum-coloured shop front has a delightful Dickensian feel and its corner plot allows for a decadent double window display of sweet and savoury treats. There are whole pies and cakes, and neatly packaged bags of sweet bites and nibbles tied up with ribbon, whilst inside the slices and individual cakes are ready for inspection for sweet-toothed customers.

It’s no easy task to choose between Black Gingerbread, Whiskey Bomb and Lemon Crunch Cake but the staff understand such dilemmas and they’re happy to let you browse to your heart’s content. To make things easier, the coffee menu is refreshingly unpretentious, allowing the food to take centre stage. But it’s still top-notch, with a lovely subtle nutty flavour. When I’m in the area, I make a detour to Konditor & Cook simply for a caffeine hit but it would be unthinkable to leave without a cake or two.

Other London branches

63 Stamford Street, London SE1 9NB

10 Stoney Street, London SE1 9AD (Borough Market)

46 Grays Inn Road, London WC1X 8LR

30 St Mary Axe, London EC3A 8BF

Curzon Cinema, Shaftsbury Avenue, London W1D 5DY

While you’re in the area…

If you take a short walk across Waterloo Road and onto Lower Marsh you’ll be rewarded with a fantastic food shopping experience. Greensmiths (page 108) is one large shop that is home to a butcher (The Ginger Pig), a wine merchant (Waterloo Wine Company), a bakery (The Old Post Office Bakery) and a greengrocer (Solstice). What more do you need?

The Old Post Office Bakery

76 Landor Road, London SW9 9PH

Tel: [phone]

Opening times: Mon–Sat 7am–6pm, Sun 7am–2pm

Tube: Clapham North

This tiny shop is tucked away on a largely residential street that isn’t exactly a hub of gastronomy and yet the bakery has managed to hold its own and endear itself to the local residents and bread lovers from further afield. The miniature space feels crowded with two customers but the palpable warmth from the freshly baked loaves ensures you’re cosy, rather than cramped. As we all know, the best things often come in small packages and The Old Post Office Bakery is producing some of the best bread in the capital.