Cairngorm John E-Book

John Allen

• Herausgeber: Sandstone Press
• Kategorie: Sachliteratur, Reportagen, Biografien
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2019

Seitenzahl: 631

Beschreibung

'A fascinating account of a man of great humility and remarkable courage.' The Daily RecordThe Cairngorm mountains in Scotland are a magnet for climbers and walkers. John Allen spent more than thirty years in the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team saving the lost and injured. Filled with stories of life and death alongside discussions of hypothermia, first aid, new technology and rescue dogs, Cairngorm John is a must-read for anyone who spends time in the great outdoors, whether as a casual hillwalker or as part of a mountain rescue team.This special anniversary edition of his mountaineering classic includes additional photographs and new chapters discussing how mountain rescue has developed over the last decade.'Indispensable to those who love the hills. The stories it contains are poignant and full of emotion' The Inverness Courier

Leseprobe

John Allen was born in 1942 in Knightswood, Glasgow. After graduating from Heriot-Watt University he spent the early part of his career in Edinburgh, in pharmacy. With his wife, Anne, and their two young children he moved to Strathspey in the Scottish Highlands to manage community pharmacies in Kingussie and Newtonmore. There John’s interest in mountains and mountaineering increased until, after the Cairngorm Plateau Disaster of 1971, he joined the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team. He became Team Leader in 1989, remaining in post until retiring from the Team in August 2007. He was closely involved in well over 1,000 rescues, and received an MBE for services to mountain rescue in 2001.

Chris Bonington was born in Hampstead in 1934 and is considered by many to be Britain’s most distinguished living mountaineer. He has led many expeditions including the successful one in 1972 on the hitherto unclimbed south-west ridge of Mount Everest, and in 1985 achieved the summit personally. He has travelled and climbed all over the world and is the author of many successful books.

Robert Davidson is a writer, editor and experienced hillwalker who lives in Highland Scotland.

First published in Great Britain by

Sandstone Press Ltd

Willow House

Stoneyfield Business Park

Inverness

IV2 7PA

Scotland

www.sandstonepress.com

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form without the express written permission of the publisher.

Copyright © John Allen with Robert Davidson 2009, 2019

All first section internal photographs © as ascribed 2009

All second section internal photographs © as ascribed 2019

Jacket photograph © Chris Stuart by permission

The moral right of ‘John Allen with Robert Davidson’ to be recognised as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Design and Patents Act, 1988.

The publisher acknowledges subsidy from Creative Scotland towards publication of this volume.

ISBN: 978-1-912240-64-7

ISBNe: 978-1-912240-70-8

Jacket design by Ryder Design, Sheffield

This book is dedicated to all members and supporters of the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team, past, present and future.

Contents

About the 10th anniversary edition

Three reasons for writing this book

Acknowledgements to the first edition

Acknowledgements to the second edition

Introduction by Sir Chris Bonington

PROLOGUE: The Mountains

A LIFE IN MOUNTAIN RESCUE

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

EPILOGUE: The Sea

TEN YEARS AFTER

AFTERWORD: Thai Boys

MAPS

Glossary of climbing terms

Gaelic pronunciation and meanings

Select bibliography

List of illustrations

ABOUT

The 10th Anniversary Edition

In 2009, at the time of writing Cairngorm John, I had reservations about any book reporting on mountain rescues and Mountain Rescue Teams. Having agreed to write the book I attempted to justify it by outlining my three main reasons for putting pen to paper. Since then I have become convinced that it was the correct thing to do. There are a great many books written on mountaineering and the ‘great outdoors’. Whether the climber takes part in mountaineering in the Scottish Highlands, the European Alps, or the great ranges of the Himalayas, all participants in this sport have one thing in common – they may have an accident and they may need to be rescued. The thread of rescue runs through the whole range of outdoor pursuits and, in that case, the book Cairngorm John has its rightful place in mountain literature. This was acknowledged at the Kendal Mountain Festival in November 2009 when it was shortlisted for the Boardman Tasker Prize for mountain literature.

Towards the end of 2018 it was apparent that Cairngorm John, after a number of reprints, was again out of print. Due to the success of the original book, instead of another reprint, Sandstone Press was keen to bring out a 10th anniversary edition with some updating to recognise the changes in the Cairngorm Team and in mountain rescue generally in the last ten years. There have been rapid and extensive developments in all aspects of modern sports during this time, and mountaineering is no exception. Appropriate additional chapters could include: the privatisation of the search and rescue helicopter service; the advancing technology of rescue equipment; the use of smart phones and apps; and the formation of the Independent Mountain Rescue Service – a group of four Rescue Teams who gave up their membership of the Scottish Mountain Rescue organisation.

I found it very gratifying to note that the original book was generally well received. I was also aware that some mountaineering instructors suggest it as recommended reading to their students and some suggest to their clients that if they wish to learn some of the dos and don’ts in the mountains then real-life stories about real-life incidents are a good way of remembering some of the main points of safety.

One well-known mountaineer went as far as to say, ‘That book should be on every climber’s shelf.’

Ten years is a long time, accidents are forgotten, and there is a new generation of climbers out there who may benefit from the message in this book.

John Allen

Kingussie, 2019

THREE REASONS

for writing this book

As a guide to the media

In my years as a Team Member, Deputy Leader then Leader of the Team, I was acutely aware when dealing with the media that many researchers and reporters had little understanding of mountaineering. This often led to poor and inaccurate reporting. For example, the press in both TV and newspapers would report an incident in two or three lines:

‘…two injured climbers were airlifted from the Cairngorms to Raigmore Hospital in Inverness where they have been kept in overnight.’

Frequently no mention was made of the 20 or 30 Rescue Team Members who had spent ten hours rescuing the two climbers from a difficult location and then carrying them to below the cloud level to a point where they could be airlifted off the hill!

To share the experience

I benefited from being a member of a Rescue Team. I saw at first hand the mistakes that could be made and this in turn made me a more careful mountaineer.

This document of my many years of experience in search and rescue may be of some value to those still actively involved in mountain rescue in Scotland.

It is of course understood that what worked for the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team may not be applicable to other Teams.

I am aware that there may be some sensitive issues raised by my decision to put into print some of the stories of rescues which took place in the past, but for any book to reach a broad spectrum of readers it has to be interesting. This requires a good deal of detail, rendered as accurately as possible to take the reader into the rescues and into the minds of the rescuers and rescued alike.

To raise the profile of mountain rescue

Mountain rescue in Scotland is the responsibility of the police. Unlike the police, the fire brigade, or the ambulance service it is an emergency service operated by unpaid civilians with limited funding. I was always surprised by the number of casualties whom we rescued who believed that we were a paid service.

I believe that in order to obtain and maintain funding it is necessary to keep mountain rescue in the public eye. One of our most important sources of funding in the past has been the goodwill and generosity of those individuals who have supported our work through donations, fundraising and legacies.

My hope is that readers who share my lifelong love of mountaineering in Scotland will sympathise with my sincere wish to raise public awareness of the volunteer nature of mountain rescue.

John Allen

October 2008

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

to the First Edition

For supporting this project and for their many reminiscences, corroborations, elaborations and permissions John Allen thanks Anne Allen, Willie Anderson, Sarah Atkinson, Denise Barley, Helen Brebner, Peter Cliff, Peter Finlayson, Nick Forwood, Roger Gaff, Alistair Gilmour, Peter Grant, Paul Gray, Jas Hepburn, John Hall, John Lyall, Duncan MacDonald, Neil MacDonald, Heather Morning, Paul Hyett, Dave Pierce, Rod Pimm, Mollie Porter, Fran Pothecary, Martin Robertson, Uiga Robertson, Willie Ross, Malcolm Sclater, Jimmy Simpson, Dave Snadden, Simon Steer, Wes Sterrit, Chris Stuart, Tim Walker, Margaret Wigham, Roger Wild, Donnie Williamson and Hamish Wylie.

Robert Davidson thanks Iain Gordon of Sandstone Press for first suggesting this project and Iain and Brigit Gordon for the use of their cottage in Kingussie where much of the first draft was written. John Allen made his eco-cottage near Boat of Garten available for the rest.

Great thanks go to the Committee and Team Members of the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team for their welcome and co-operation. Team Doctor Peter Grant contributed hugely to Chapter Eleven on hypothermia in a three-way internet conversation between John in Kingussie, Robert in Dingwall and Peter in Uganda, on the upper reaches of the Nile where he was working on an AIDS/HIV project with Voluntary Service Overseas.

Special thanks go to the eight other Team Members who allowed themselves to be interviewed: Willie Anderson, Peter Finlayson, James (Jas) Hepburn, John Lyall, Duncan MacDonald, Heather Morning, Simon Steer and Donnie Williamson. Paul Hyett has been a friend of Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team since his dramatic rescue on Ben Alder and contributed greatly to Chapter Twelve.

Moira Forsyth applied her acute eye and sensibility to all the book’s many drafts.

Very special thanks go to Anne Allen who gave her practical support to the project from the outset, read early drafts, assisted with proofing, engaged in discussions on mountain rescue and provided her unique insight into the motivations and character of mountain rescuers.

Sir Chris Bonington’s generous Introduction is acknowledged with particular gratitude.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

to the Second Edition

It seems that almost as much work has gone into preparing this new edition of Cairngorm John as went into the first, with almost as many people contributing their time and experience. My wife, Anne, has again gone over the text, correcting many minor errors that had somehow found their way to publication first time around.

In addition, I am happy to acknowledge Team Members, present and past: Willie Anderson, Iain Cornfoot, Al Gilmour, Nick Forwood, John Lowther, John Lyall, Dave Rutledge, Heather Morning and Donny Williamson, who all consented to be interviewed not once but several times. Chris Stuart contributed the dramatic image from which Ryder Design developed the book cover. Chris has also contributed images to the second (new) plate section, especially the beautiful landscapes. Pictures of Fingers Ridge were generously donated by Steve Broadhurst. The Scottish Avalanche Information Service supplied the dramatic image of a cornice collapse and I am happy to put my thanks on record.

I am also grateful to Chief Pilot John McIntyre and his air crews at Inverness Coastguard Base, Damon Powell of Scottish Mountain Rescue for sharing his views and experience, Ron Walker of Talisman Mountaineering, the legendary figure David ‘Heavy’ Whalley for sharing his research into the Beinn Eighe disaster of 1951, and to Mark Wilson, who contributed greatly to the general summary of the S-92 and to ‘triggered lightning’.

INTRODUCTION

by Sir Chris Bonington

The Cairngorms are a magnificent mountain range lying roughly at the centre of the Scottish Highlands. Within their wide open spaces four of the five highest peaks in Britain can be reached on foot in a day. Reached, that is, by physically able and experienced mountaineers. I had one of the best days I have ever had on skis reaching those four wonderful summits. They are crossed by several great passes which, while much lower than the summits, are at a higher level by far than that at which most people will survive comfortably.

I have had many great days in the Cairngorms. Back in the sixties I did some truly enjoyable winter climbs with Tom Patey, that great character of Scottish climbing, who pioneered so many first ascents and celebrated them and his companions in song, verse and brilliantly witty prose. In the eighties with Jim Fotheringham we climbed many of the great Classics, among them Steeple and Needle on the Shelter Stone Crag in summer and we had a 24-hour epic on Creag an Dubh Loch trying to climb Labyrinth in thin conditions. After being turned back just a few feet from the top we were faced with a terrifying abseil descent in the dark with very poor anchors.

More recently, on Parallel Gully B on Lochnagar, with my brother I had one of the closest calls of all, when he fell as second and pulled me off my inadequate axe belay in the upper snow slope, giving a 50m clear fall onto the one runner I put in place on the pitch. Fortunately, it held both our weights, and with broken ribs I managed to top out of the climb.

I have never had to be rescued but have had quite a few close calls over the years. It has made me very aware of how all of us climbers and walkers might well need the help of a Mountain Rescue Team and indeed, may owe our lives to their skill, stamina and courage. Nowhere more is this the case than in the Cairngorms where the heights, distances, and ferocity of the weather, particularly in winter, are of a more serious scale than anywhere else in the British Isles.

These mountains have a unique beauty which some say is an acquired taste but which, once gained, is never lost. They are the single malt whisky of landscapes and have generated a literature which sits comfortably on the long shelves of mountain books from around the world. Cairngorm John: A Life in Mountain Rescue now joins this amazing library.

Newly arrived in the Highlands from Edinburgh with his wife and young family John Allen was to develop a successful chain of community pharmacies, but when he joined the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team in 1972 he truly found his niche. As far as family and business commitments would allow he immersed himself in mountain rescue and, in 1989, became Team Leader, remaining in position until early 2007. The rescues he participated in, led directly, or organised from either Glenmore Lodge or the new Mountain Rescue Centre at Inverdruie number easily more than a thousand.

The title of this book, Cairngorm John, refers to the call sign he used throughout his career when speaking to the Air-Sea Rescue helicopters. His steady voice over the radio must have been a reassurance to the crew of the legendary Rescue 137 as it hovered over Aviemore, waiting for the break in the weather that would let them into the corrie, or plateau, or deep glen, where John and his fellow rescuers were struggling against the elements to save a life. The same steadiness arises from these pages but carries with it other qualities such as observation, humour and empathy.

Although frequently in the news Mountain Rescue Teams are not well understood. Surprisingly few people know the rescuers are unpaid or that they achieve, to put it in John Allen’s words, ‘the most professional standards possible within an amateur ethos’. Why then, do they require such large sums to function, and where does the money come from? Likewise their relationships with other, full-time, emergency services are not well understood. Few, even among mountain enthusiasts, know they act on behalf of the police and that it is the Team Leaders who co-ordinate all aspects, including the use of helicopters.

One of the least understood groups to go to the hills, the mountain rescuers are an enigma to the general public who all too often label them simply as heroes. No dedicated rescuer feels this way. Nor do they see the casualties as the public too often does, as feckless and foolish. John Allen’s book does much to explain the motivations of both, the trials the rescuers put themselves through to come to the assistance of others, and the crafts and science developed through their work over the past half-century.

Often the rescuers are required to meet and work with people during the worst experience of their life, experience that will alter their futures utterly. Sometimes they have to deal with people in what will be the last few hours of their lives. In the course of a long search they will often interact closely with the relatives of a casualty. Relationships are developed, grief is shared and sometimes long friendships are established.

Filled with anecdotes and compassion this book takes the reader deeply into the world of mountain rescue, more deeply into the hills themselves than many more direct appreciations. Cairngorm John: A Life in Mountain Rescue is by turns exciting, funny, informative and wise, an indispensable addition to the literature of the mountains.

PROLOGUE

The Mountains

The Cairngorms in Scotland are a mountain range, a hard reality, a unique and sensitive environment, a playground, a sanctuary, an idea. The name ‘Cairngorm’ is a modern development taken from the name of a single mountain. A Gaelic word it means ‘blue hill’, with ‘cairn’ implying a high degree of rockiness. It is not the true Gaelic name of the range, which is ‘Am Monadh Ruadh’, but those puzzling ‘dhs do not sit well in the mouths of English-language speakers.

The name is also applied to wider areas with boundaries that vary depending on the authority involved. The area as described in the Scottish Mountaineering Trust’s guidebook, The Cairngorms by Dr Adam Watson, covers Ben Rinnes in the north to a line drawn between Pitlochry and Montrose in the south, with the west side boundary running down the centre of the River Spey. Against this, the Cairngorm National Park Authority crosses the Spey to place its boundary along the crest of the Monadhliath hills (‘liath’ means ‘grey’). The heart of the matter though, is the mountain range which has its own history, literature, songbook, human ecology, plant forms, animals, birds; it even has its yeti figure in the Great Grey Man of Ben MacDhui. If ghosts exist it most certainly has ghosts.

Even in planetary terms its rocks are old. Five hundred million years ago masses of molten rock emerged from the earth to form mountains many times higher than those of today. Glaciers, wind and water gradually eroded them to their foundations, the three relatively flat plateaux of the Cairngorm massif at around 1,200m above sea level. The westernmost of these plateaux has the most peaks with seven designated as Munros – mountains attaining a height of 3,000ft as measured in imperial units. The wide flat area between these peaks is termed the Great Moss, the name it gives to the whole plateau.

The central plateau has two Munros, Cairngorm and Ben MacDhui, with the two outliers known as Beinn Mheadhoin and Derry Cairngorm, and takes its name from the most famous of them to be generally known as the Cairngorm Plateau. Although the most celebrated peak, Cairngorm is not the highest. Before the hills of Scotland were surveyed with modern accuracy Ben MacDhui was thought to be the highest mountain in Scotland. In fact, it is the second highest after Ben Nevis. In Ben MacDhui, Cairngorm, and across the Lairig Ghru, Braeriach and Cairn Toul, this range boasts the next four highest peaks in the British Isles.

Granite does not allow for tremendous fertility and neither does the almost constant south-west wind that blows unhindered from the Atlantic to trouble the gravel and short spiky grass of the tundra. Across Beinn a’Bhuird and Ben Avon, on the easternmost plateau, these processes have formed weird rock shapes that could pass for modern art sculptures.

On the plateaux themselves there is much to be seen, although it tends not to be noticed by the untutored eye. A herd of reindeer was introduced in the 1950s, tiny alpine plants blossom in their seasons, the bare, exposed rock faces take all manner of forms, and flocks of a most charming little bird, the snow bunting, arrive each year from the Arctic to nest among the boulder fields. The robotic weather station on Cairngorm was built for the use of mountain rescuers as a radio shack, but everyone who uses the mountain professionally knows it as ‘The Igloo’. Provided it is in sight a rescuer can be in contact with others who might be below the horizon. Effectively it is a repeater station. Its location though, makes it ideal for long-term studies so Heriot-Watt University adapted it to test outside conditions every 20 minutes or so. It is a good, practical example of co-operation between bodies with a substantial overlap of interest, although unwary hillwalkers have been known to jump out of their boots when a gleaming cylinder of plastic and steel grinds noisily out of the roof.

The area features three great mountain passes that have been used by travellers since human beings first arrived in these parts. Glen Feshie links Strathspey in the north with Deeside in the south. The Lairig an Laoigh, the Pass of the Cattle, was used in earlier times by Highland drovers herding their beasts to the markets at Crieff and Callander.

Most famous of all is the central pass, the Lairig Ghru that joins Coylumbridge and White Bridge, dividing the Great Moss from the Cairngorm Plateau. At its crest the Pools of Dee at 760m are usually taken to be the source of the River Dee that runs ever widening to Aberdeen and the sea. However, the Wells of Dee, high on Braeriach, to my mind have at least an equal claim. In former times traversed by cattle, but too rugged to be paved for vehicles, the Lairig Ghru remains more or less unspoiled and one of the world’s great mountain walks.

Equally distinguishing are the huge, bowl-like corries that have been carved by glaciers from the sides of the mountains. Photographs do not do justice to the scale. For a full appreciation it is necessary to go there, especially into the Lairig Ghru, to stand beneath the Highland sky and look up. Eagles live here, as do ptarmigan, and dotterel lay their eggs on the high tundra.

The mountain features carry names that bear testimony to the primacy of Gaelic in former times and act as a repository of lore, but the language has long since been displaced by English. In the nineteenth century the Highland Clearances took their toll when the native people were evicted in favour of large estates and sheep. Those remaining suffered the imposition of a class system such as had been unknown to their ancestors and was contrary to their traditions.

Theirs is a great and important story but it is not this story. Rather it is one factor in what the Cairngorms have become, to be acknowledged as an irreversible tragedy but otherwise accepted. Different people live and work here now and have made their commitments to remain and to build.

In Glen Feshie and Glen Derry, in Rothiemurchus to the north, around the Dee to the south, are stands of Scots Pine and mixtures of broadleaved native trees, birch, alder and willow, remnants of a much greater woodland environment. The forests have been attacked and diminished by man for centuries, but much good work is now being done to preserve and extend what remains. Even what we have teems with birdlife, redwing, goldeneye, the rare Scottish crossbill, capercaillie. They are also home to red squirrels, hare, red deer, many kinds of moth, dragonflies.

The Northern Corries are more rugged than the corries to the south and are a magnet for climbers and rough walkers. The four greatest are Coire na Ciste (of the Chest, or Coffin), Coire Cas (of the Foot), Coire an t-Sneachda (of the Snow), and Coire an Lochain (of the Lochan, or Tarn), and several of the massif’s notable summits are situated on their edge, including Cairngorm itself. Each of these peaks is marked by a cairn, and all are important wayfinders in low visibility, none more so than the unnamed Point 1141 between Coire Cas and Coire an t-Sneachda.

The years after the Second World War saw an increase in the steady growth of popularity that outdoor pursuits had enjoyed for several decades. As a consequence, in 1947, the Glenmore Lodge Outdoor Centre was established beside Rothiemurchus Forest in the foothills of the Northern Cairngorms, providing training for anyone with an interest in the outdoors. From the outset its instructors raised the levels of knowledge and standards of competence in all sorts of outdoor activities, winter hillwalking, rock climbing, kayaking and more.

Through the decades Glenmore Lodge has developed from no more than a few huts into a sophisticated complex of buildings and technical equipment. In the same period its reputation for progressive outdoor education has widened from a relatively small group of enthusiasts in Scotland into an international circle of appreciation and acknowledgement. Parallel communications systems have been created between this complex and the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team’s new Rescue Centre near Aviemore and, on those occasions when a mishap occurs in the Northern Corries, the Rescue Team will often use Glenmore Lodge as its Control Centre. With the full and active support of successive Glenmore Lodge Principals, instructors make themselves available for mountain rescue operations in these areas if at all possible. Due to their location they are often first on the scene and, in these circumstances, the two Teams work almost as one.

In 1960 and 1961, two years before the foundation of the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team itself, a new road was built onto the mountain from near the Outdoor Centre, with chairlifts to hoist skiers onto the higher snowfields and to the new Ptarmigan Restaurant only 150m below the summit. From that time access into the corries has been made easier and walking and climbing activities have increased to a significantly higher level. Between 1999 and 2001 a funicular railway was constructed from the road’s end to a new improved Ptarmigan Restaurant against a background of much environmental discussion, and has proved a popular tourist attraction.

The area to the south and south-east has always been more populated because nature made the land more fertile. It takes more of the sun, and the same ice sheet that shattered the northern faces 10,000 years ago made easier slopes and created a richer soil. It enjoys the presence of royalty which brings its own sub-culture of ceremony and style, and encourages tourism, and the Dee is one of the world’s great salmon rivers. This is where herds of deer roam and grouse fly low over banks of heather, and where the hunters come to be guided into the hills to shoot them. The improved road system brings caravans and cars to the hotels, guest houses and campsites of both north and south.

The Estates use Land Rovers and four-wheel drive vehicles, but otherwise the mountains are mostly spared motorised transport. Sometimes helicopters have occasion to land. Mostly though, people travel on foot and to do so it has always been necessary to plan and go prepared.

From whichever direction the walker enters there is a fair way to travel before anything like real solitude is found, but eventually the crowds clear and the silence deepens. Under these circumstances the streams make a singular music and it is a wonderful thing to sleep beside them when the weather is right. All of Cairngorm is a photographer’s paradise with subtle shades of purple and green, brown and grey that alter with the seasons and shift with the angle of the light.

The area looks like wilderness and many people consider it to be so, but human influence is everywhere. The grouse moors are as much a made environment as is a high building and require almost as much maintenance. There are Estate houses in Glen Avon, Glen Feshie and Rothiemurchus. Some rivers are bridged and the tops of the plateaux have erosion tracks created by generations of walkers. There are ski tows in the Northern Corries, and a funicular railway that climbs to near the top of Cairngorm Mountain. The winding road that leads to the ski areas gives drivers the choice of three high car parks, the topmost at almost 650m, more than half the elevation of the summit.

Winter strikes hard with temperatures falling well below zero even in the glens, and on the plateaux the snow can lie deeply enough to make walking next to impossible. In these circumstances even a slight wind can produce a chill factor that will take the effective temperature well below freezing. The same wind will turn even a light snowfall into an impenetrable wall of white, and the snow can fall heavily while the wind can be a hurricane because there is nothing to break it on its passage from the ocean. With your footprints filling behind you, direction comes down to compass work alone, and disorientation is a moment’s doubt away.

Here and there in the passes and corries are shelters, some of them little more than a rickle of stones, others strongly made buildings constructed for sound economic reasons. The bothy at Corrour, for instance, in earlier times was used by deer watchers. That is to say, it was used by gamekeepers looking out for poachers. Changing times have removed that usage and the Mountain Bothy Association now maintains it as an unlocked shelter for mountain travellers. As such it becomes not just an emergency shelter but a social centre, albeit one with severe toilet inadequacies.

The shelters have saved lives but have also tempted the less well prepared into the mountains at times when they were likely to be overwhelmed. There have been tragedies.

Across the Lairig Ghru from Corrour is the Tailors’ Stone where, according to legend, two local tailors met their end in pursuit of a bet that they could travel to Coylumbridge from Braemar overnight. If the bothy had been available, it could have saved them. In 1800, at Gaick in the wider Cairngorm area, five men were killed in bed when their hut was struck by an avalanche. In 1804 five soldiers out of seven returning to Abernethy from their barracks in Edinburgh died of exposure in the Lairig an Laoigh.

‘Exposure’ is a frequent cause of death in these mountains. To be more specific, the word implies demoralisation, exhaustion and hypothermia. Snow, rain, low temperatures are all contributors, with the wind a multiplying factor. Add these to inadequate clothing and inexperience and it can be a lethal combination.

In November 1971 two parties of children from Ainslie Park School in Edinburgh set out with their leaders from Lagganlia Outdoor Centre. One of the parties consisted of six children at 15 years old with two instructors, Cathy Davidson and Sheila Sutherland, who were not much older. Making a relatively late start they drove to the high car park on Cairngorm and from there took the chairlift close to the top of the Cairngorm Plateau. Intent on reaching the Curran Bothy near Ben MacDhui, they had a long distance on the Cairngorm Plateau to traverse in what soon became nightmare conditions, so bad they failed to reach their destination. Their companion party did reach the Curran and must have spent an anxious time of waiting and hoping that their friends would appear. When the weather relented sufficiently this other party returned to Lagganlia and, finding their friends overdue, raised the alarm. By this time the missing party had been outside for two nights and a day.

The Cairngorm, Glenmore Lodge, RAF and Braemar Rescue Teams were turned out, as was Grampian Police. The Teams went through their procedures, but conditions made the search almost impossible. The group was eventually located from above when a helicopter crew was at last able to take advantage of a break in the weather. Cathy Davidson and one of the boys had set out from where the rest of the party were now buried in snow. Cathy was soon reduced to crawling on her hands and knees and it was her bright orange jacket that called the crew’s attention. By the time the rescuers reached her she was barely able to speak but managed to point the way to her charges. Once again, the rescuers went through their procedures, this time applying first aid and doing what they could to warm the casualties until the helicopter could lift them away.

The decisions and events of the day were analysed and reanalysed. The parties had started out late, leaving them less time to adapt and readjust their plans as they travelled. On a short winter day the economy of time was a particularly decisive factor. By using the chairlift they were deprived of the benefits of a long walk in, loosening joints and getting into their stride. There was little opportunity for an assessment of the conditions against the strength of the group before they stepped onto the plateau and into the blizzard.

Sometimes, the bravest decision is to turn back, to leave the adventure for another day, to write off the time and expense of reaching the tipping point. On this day the group continued, eventually becoming disoriented and misplaced. Demoralisation, exhaustion and hypothermia naturally followed. On the hill or later in hospital Sheila Sutherland and five children died. It was the worst disaster in Scottish mountaineering history.

The scale of the losses sent a shock wave through the wider public who had, for the most part, not understood that a disaster of this magnitude could occur on home shores, especially within the education system. An inquiry was instigated into what became known as the Cairngorm Plateau Disaster that had a profound effect on outdoor activities in the UK. Purposes and methods were re-evaluated, training methods and certification schemes tightened. Very few voices were raised in favour of ending such activities. The values and skills to be developed in the same difficult, exquisite environment were understood and appreciated, but safety on the hills, and training, were recognised as having to attain a new level of thoroughness and sophistication. The Mountain Rescue Teams and their associates also re-examined their methods and procedures, as well as their resources.

No rescuer ever rushes to judgement, far less blame. Everyone involved knows that under different circumstances, in different times, it could have been them. There is always a back story, a combination of circumstances, history, decisions made by others, character. It is true of the mountain itself, whose story goes back into geological time, of the casualties and the strings of decision and coincidence that bring them to grief, and it is true of the rescuers.

ONE

The German air crews who flew across these islands in 1942 looked down on a blacked out land, trusting in their navigation systems and whatever natural features moon and starlight might pick out. Those on their way to bomb the River Clyde, the fading Empire’s great factory of shipbuilding and marine engineering, will have looked to the north and the sparsely populated land of the Highlands. They will have picked out the relatively low hills of the Trossachs, the more rugged terrain around Loch Lomond, on a particularly bright night the higher hills to the north, Ben Nevis and the Grey Corries, the Cairngorms, all of them white in the longer, colder winters of the time. Much lower in height than their own Tyrol and German Alps they were, and remain, a unique landscape that once seen is never forgotten.

The bombs they discharged shattered much of the city of Glasgow, and the adjacent, shipbuilding town of Clydebank was substantially destroyed. Only a few miles away, in Knightswood, on one occasion a bomb exploded close to our home and our doors and windows were blown out, but we were more fortunate than many. It was there, at home as was customary at the time, that I was born, on the dining table according to family lore. I was the baby in a family of three children and always our mother’s favourite, or so I believed.

My sister, Helen, was seven years old and my brother, Bill, two. Our home was a two-bedroom, semi-detached Council house and we considered ourselves privileged to live in it. In our early years all three children shared one bedroom while our parents had the other. When the sirens sounded we took refuge in an Anderson hut in the garden, our family bomb shelter.

My father, Duncan, was 34 when I was born and my mother, Mary, 32. My mother gave up her job on marrying, again as was customary at the time, and I believe we children benefited, relying on her constant presence, and her discipline.

She had been a secretary with the Prison Service in Barlinnie, Glasgow’s largest jail, where some of Scotland’s most dangerous criminals were incarcerated, and Helen and I still treasure a photograph of her from the 1930s, taken with the uniformed staff. A tiny woman in comparison to all those huge, uniformed men, it was through her we learned respect for our elders and the police, for authority, and our wilder tendencies were kept in check. Nowadays my son, Michael, and his partner, for reasons entirely of their own, have elected to raise their children in the same way and I have to say I am impressed by my grandchildren’s attitudes and behaviour.

Time moves us all on. I lean on the fence around our office in Kingussie, looking across the shinty pitch and the fields, across the River Spey to the Cairngorm Mountains and understand that memory must be more than a vehicle for nostalgia, but when I think of my grandchildren I naturally think of the many changes that have occurred since I was their age. Computer games and television, DVDs and downloads mean that many children remain indoors or only venture out under conditions of close supervision. This means that the values and challenges of the outdoors are at an even greater premium. Change has also occurred on the planet itself.

I begin this book one February in the early years of the twenty-first century. My office is a box-like building close to the railway station from which, for many years my wife, Anne, and I used to manage our community pharmacies located around the Eastern Highlands, to organise goods and staff, and as a store for some of our stock and equipment.

When we arrived in 1970 it was to manage two pharmacies. By dint of hard work and good business practice we not only achieved ownership but increased the number of shops to six. The hills were white with snow in the winters of our early years in Strathspey, and the stream beside the road, the Gynack, was frozen and silent. Today it runs freely and noisily. It is a joy to hear but it also signals climate change that will serve us all much for the worse in time.

Visitor numbers to the area increase steadily as do the number of accidents on what is a beautiful but dangerous terrain. The standard of ‘readiness’ for the hills grows greater but increased numbers and a wider range of user ambitions, such as ice climbing, skiing and snowboarding, endurance walking, hill-running and Award schemes ensure that accidents are not long between. The mountains are now part of the vast Cairngorm National Park and may soon be recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, concepts that were unknown in the immediate post-war years when my father worked as a shipping clerk with William Sloan and Company of Glasgow.

Sloan’s ran a fleet of small cargo ships that traded around the British coast. Named after Scottish rivers such as the Beauly and the Findhorn they travelled to Belfast, Swansea, Bristol, trading with all the seaboard cities. It was Dad’s job to arrange for cargos in each port so that the boat never travelled empty, and sometimes, when school holidays permitted, I was allowed to travel with him. Always treated as a favourite I was shown round the engine rooms and taken onto the bridge to hold the wheel and sometimes pull a lever. I spent very little time indoors when not studying and all of my primary school years seem in memory to have been given over to football. Only two years older than I, my brother, William, always known as Bill, was my best friend and we remained close all of his life. Helen, seven years older, lived a rather different life. She had, and still has, a love and gift for music, particularly singing, inherited from our grandfather who sang with the Glasgow Orpheus Choir.

Bill and I joined the Boys Brigade and Helen joined a number of choirs. Our parents were religious and we accompanied them to church. Each Sunday morning we would make the two-mile journey to the Church of Scotland at Anniesland Cross, usually by bus or tram, sometimes walking. I would go as often as three times, to morning service, Sunday school in the afternoon and Youth Fellowship in the evening. Religious attendance and belief at that time were unquestioned.

I began attending what was known as the Tent Hall, an Evangelist centre, and was struck by the sense of ‘life lived fully and joyously’. People attended as a pleasure, not a duty and it was their ‘place to go’ on a Saturday night. Not only that, the duty of charity was taken seriously, and down and out men, of whom there were many in those years, would come in for soup and sandwiches. I was very moved by their plight and felt that I must do something for them but could not bring myself to do so directly. Instead I would buy bars of chocolate with the money I earned from my various jobs. On my way home I would drop the bars into the litter bins that were banded to bus and tram stops in those days, knowing the men would rake around in there for what they could find. With good intentions but from a rather superior moral position that was in no way justified by knowledge and experience, I had given them food, not money which might have gone on drink.

Life has been good to me. My parents could not have envisaged the home and lifestyle my wife and I enjoy here, four-wheel drive vehicles, television, computers, my boat, the physical space we enjoy or the material wealth, any more than the partial knee replacement that has freed this latest phase of my life from much pain. Theirs is the generation on whose shoulders we stand, but we also made our own lives and, to some extent, luck.

I took on several jobs because, in those days, supplementing the family income was close to a necessity. I was able to keep some money for myself though, and since my friend Ian Young introduced me to cycling I was desperate to buy a bicycle. I took a job delivering groceries on Fridays and Saturdays and made a sort of challenge of getting three loads into the basket and so shortening the round. In time I got to know the people who gave tips and served them best. This way I usually had money on a Saturday night.

Later I took a second job selling papers. A friend had two stances and could not keep both going, so I took over, standing outside the shipyards when the workers came out and giving them the call. ‘Eve-eh-ning Times! Eve-eh-ning Ci-ti-zen!’

This was even better for acquiring tips and soon I was cycling back and forth on an old bike. Soon a third job appeared selling warm bread rolls on the street corner close to the No. 9 bus terminus.

The old bike also allowed me to get away more, and further, and fed into my desire for freedom.

From the Tent Hall I joined the Scripture Union and in time was invited to attend their camp at West Linton on the east coast. This was an old army camp of Nissen huts and cement roads, left vacated after the war, and was for boys only. I asked Mum and to my delight she agreed. After that first adventure I went to a second camp run by a Church of Scotland minister, a Mr Meiklejohn, at Scoughal Bay near North Berwick. The camp was organised along more or less military lines, part of our war heritage, with competitive tent and hut inspections that we tried desperately to win. Six boys shared each tent with one put in command of the rest, ensuring they kept the place tidy and clean. We had no sleeping bags, instead gathering straw from a local farm we stuffed sacks to make hessian-covered palliasses. I loved all this, the discipline and teamwork as well as fresh air and exercise, comradeship, games.

The following year Mr Meiklejohn invited me to advance camp. This meant entering an empty field to dig the latrines, erect the marquee and in every way prepare the site. Groups arrived for two-week stays but the advance group remained for the whole six weeks. Mr Meiklejohn invited me to be quartermaster of the tuck shop and so I found myself in charge not only of Penguin biscuits and Irn Bru but also the budget. This was my first exposure to the retail trade and I carried out my duties enthusiastically and well.

Between this and my various jobs it was starting to look as if I might have a talent for business.

I came out of Tent Hall activities aged 15, still without a decent bicycle. With two friends I had been cycling further and wider, and more quickly, and my interest and hunger for touring and racing grew ever stronger. This was in contrast to school where, although I studied and did reasonably well, I had no sense of direction or purpose.

The qualification exam of that time served to separate us three children, at least in terms of education. Helen had as good a brain as either Bill or I and earned the right to attend the Girls High School of Glasgow but decided to let the opportunity pass so that she could attend the local secondary school with her friends. Many years later she would tell me that, even then, she was also aware of having two younger brothers coming along behind with attendant costs. Bill excelled and won a scholarship to the fee-paying school, Allan Glen’s.

When my turn came I attained only what might be thought of as ‘second prize’ and a place at Hillhead High School. I had little interest or enthusiasm but my parents were keen and I arrived just too late to befriend probably the school’s most famous old boy, Menzies Campbell, the future leader of the Liberal Democrat Party.

It meant a sort of severance with old friends and the establishing of new relationships and, in this sense, I suppose, was character-building. The great drawback, as far as I was concerned, was that it was a rugby playing school and I had been a footballer, player and supporter, since my father took me to see his team, Queens Park, play Clyde. He asked me, his small son, which side I would support and I told him, ‘The winning side!’ Clyde won and I have had a soft spot for them ever since.

At rugby my relatively short stature set me out as a scrum-half and that is the position I played most Saturday mornings. I continued to play football in the afternoons though, and whenever else I could. Looking back from the latter stages of life I understand I did not much enjoy school. Nor did I have any notion of a future. I studied so as not to let my parents down, but I did not really have purpose, nor did I have any guidance.

The Tent Hall, football, cycling and my three jobs were the meaningful parts of my life but soon the jobs had to stop. The energy and time they demanded affected school performance too much, and by now I had put enough money together to buy a fine racing bike. I started cycling to school, regarding it as training, and made a point of beating the bus and tram.

Exercise was a discipline in my life, allied as it was to ambition as a cyclist. Work, real work, was more a part of my character than study, and character has a way of asserting itself. Having given up my jobs I found I missed them, and missed the income, so I acquired another paper round. This meant getting up at 06.00 and cycling to the public baths with my friend Ian. I would swim lengths for a mile, including every so often a length under water, and then pick up the papers for my round. With the papers delivered I would cycle to Hillhead and a school career that, unsurprisingly, failed to improve.

Thinking back, the level and range of activities seems almost impossible. Strangely and without planning or intent, the development of physical stamina and business sense were preparation for later phases of my life. No one could have foreseen this, least of all my parents, from whom it seemed I was becoming estranged. They must have been at least slightly disappointed in my academic progress but, more significantly, their Christian commitment remained four-square where my 16-year indoctrination had begun to waver. Their belief in the Sabbath Day, to keep it holy, and my developing independence would soon divide us.

When I was 16 I went on a cycling and hostelling tour with three friends. In the course of Easter week we cycled, on Day One, from Glasgow to Loch Lochy near Fort William, on Day Two to Ratagan in Kintail, then on to Inveralligan in Torridon, Carbisdale in the Eastern Highlands, Inverness, finally Braemar and home. This tour amounted to several hundred miles and gave me my first close look at my country’s mountains, lochs and coastline. It altered my view of the world forever and I never stopped returning.

I had become an adult but was still without ambition or direction. I guess I was a slow developer, unlike my brother and sister. Bill now attended the Royal College of Science and Technology, one of the world’s great centres of engineering instruction, later to become Strathclyde University, where he studied chemical engineering and would eventually take an honours degree, going on to a PhD.

Helen had long since left school and worked as Secretary to Willie Allan of the Scottish Football Association, but by now an important young man had entered her life. She had known George Brebner from their childhood at Sunday school, but when they joined the Church Badminton Club something clicked between the shuttlecocks. Her membership of the Scottish National Orchestra Chorus (later to be named the Royal Scottish National Orchestra Chorus) led to working in the Orchestra’s administration department which, in turn, led to her becoming personal assistant to their conductor, Sir Alexander Gibson, working from an office in his home. The Brebners and the Gibson family became good friends and, in time, I was introduced to Sir Alex and also became a friend.

At the time I felt I could do no better than concentrate on racing and time trials and keeping myself at the peak of physical condition. Differences with my parents grew greater. I retained their Christian values but eschewed their disciplines and doctrine. Much of my cycling took place on Sundays. I could neither disappoint them nor obey and found myself lying to them instead. I would invent excuses to be away so that I could continue in secret. It was a sad development but a necessary one. By acting in this way there were no truly harsh words between us. Nothing was said that could not be retracted and nothing done that could not be healed.

My time at school was coming to an end. I was physically and mentally strong but directionless and confused. Fortunately, change was coming. I stand now in Kingussie looking at the Cairngorms and listening for the next train. That will do as a sort of metaphor. It had all been preparation for what was on the way.

TWO

The geese that fly over Strathspey have always carried messages to human beings. Deeply embedded in our understanding of the world they speak of return, reliability, faith. Their image was absorbed into the Celtic church and can be found as ancient stone carvings and in stylised, illuminated form in the Book of Kells. If one is shot it can be heard calling to its comrades as it falls and they can be heard calling back, but they continue, holding to their formation. In those last years of my school life the children who would die in the Cairngorm Plateau Disaster were being born. Their lives would be lived in some way parallel to my own although we would never meet, yet their early deaths would change the direction of my life.

At that time, when I was at the age when they would die, I was still without purpose. A slow developer socially and academically I still raced, but I had come to prefer touring and regularly covered prodigious distances. On one occasion I cycled from Knightswood to Oban and back in a day. I visited Skye for the first time and here, in Strathspey, had my first, awestruck look at these great mountains, the Cairngorms. Between these activities, my jobs, and a general lack of interest in studies, I did less well at school than I should. Exam results meant university was out of the question.

I left school at 18 without a job, a situation that could not continue for the most practical of family financial reasons. Bill was doing well at Strathclyde and Helen was set fair in life, but I had no ambitions beyond the day until I read an advertisement that proved to be fateful. Boots, the giant High Street chemist, was looking for counter staff. I was interviewed by the area manager and taken on as a shop assistant with the vague notion that I might become an unqualified dispenser.

Soon a new shop was to be opened in Drumchapel, near our home, but at first I was sent to the St George’s Cross branch. There I stacked shelves, dusted, moved things around. My experience of advance camp helped as I was not afraid to tackle any task, however menial. I met shopfitters for the first time and assisted them in their work, experience that would stand me in good stead here in Kingussie.

In the new shop I was put in charge of ‘Pets and Gardens’ where I built in my own systems and procedures. I must have impressed the store manager because he soon extended my small empire to include ‘Photographic’. This suited me very well because photography had already entered my touring life. We worked a five-and-a-half-day week with Sundays off and a half-day on Tuesday.

Eddie Brown, the pharmacist in charge, recommended I take an internal course in dispensing. Eddie must have seen something more in me because he invited me into his office to ‘give me a hand’. Soon I was helping him balance the daily and weekly ledgers, important work that required thoroughness and accuracy.

It was from Eddie I learned the importance of delegation and the management skills necessary to remain in touch with the shop floor. Whenever errors happened I would call him in and he would clear my mess without rancour or temperament before returning to his rounds. He was always calm, always steady, and mostly seemed unoccupied. When I asked him how he got such a job he told me he was a qualified pharmacist and if I wanted to enjoy a life like his I must become one too. I still had not thought of a career and this advice sounded as good as any.

Two years had passed since leaving school and I was already much changed from my directionless youth. Working at Boots had not only brought me focus but also made me something of a company man. I went to night school and took the qualifications that would allow me to apply for university. That achieved, I looked around for a university that would take me into its pharmaceutical course but did so without great enthusiasm. The outdoors remained my heartland, and pharmacy’s challenges seemed, at that time, to be entirely in-store and behind a counter. Against that, a Boots career offered steady income, and I had great liking and respect for the men I worked for.

Unknown to me, and against the grain of all my thinking, someone was about to enter my life who would bring still more change. Helen had been president of our church’s Youth Fellowship and Bill had followed in her footsteps. My own faith had waned, but church involvement continued and in due course I too became president. There I met a young woman named Marjory Millar who picked me out as a likely boyfriend for her sister, Anne. How any woman can predict and engineer such a match will forever be a mystery but when Anne began to attend she took my eye. She was younger than I by a few years, slim, very attractive and bright. I took an immediate shine but she had already attracted a good deal of male interest and it was clear I would have to move quickly. Before long we were going steady.

In those days we did not go to pubs as is normal now. Life was more constrained by lack of money and space, and we had no car. We went to the cinema a lot, and to cafes, and soon I had to take her into consideration when thinking about the future. By this time I felt a strong need to get away from home and when Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh offered me a place I accepted. It meant being away from Anne through the week but I would be home at weekends and there were long holidays to look forward to.

At the end of First Year I came home for the summer, keen on earning some money. My cycling friend, Ian Young, told me of labouring work that was available in Glen Fruin. I had cycled there as part of the Three Lochs Route and was familiar with and greatly appreciative of the landscape. By now the nuclear age had arrived and bunkers were being created at Faslane for the storage of Polaris missiles, the nuclear arsenal that was already hotly contested by CND in marches and demonstrations. The construction site would be no easy billet but I had already decided to avoid any comfortable indoor job in favour of a wider experience.

Ian advised where the site buses uplifted the workers in the mornings. All that was necessary was to turn up on time and all the rest would fall into place. I arrived at the appointed location at 06.30 and climbed aboard for the one-and-a-half-hour journey to a Glen Fruin that was utterly changed. The tree-covered hillside and narrow country roads were destroyed and where once there had been streams there were now underground culverts. Rustling leaves and birdsong had been replaced by the roar of machinery and the cries of working men.

I checked in at the site office where the foreman assigned me to a labouring gang and the toughest physical labour I would carry out in my life. I was given a pneumatic jackhammer so heavy I could hardly lift it, and sent down into a deep, rocky excavation. There I toiled, raising the hammer to the wall or forcing it into the ground, gunning the machine so that my whole body shook and the noise was deafening. In the days before the Health and Safety at Work Act we had no ear protectors and I sometimes wonder if the hardness of hearing I suffer today dates back to the hammering my eardrums took then.