Cheesecake E-Book

Hannah Miles

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2015

Beschreibung

Cheesecakes are one of the oldest desserts in existence, traceable back to ancient Greece, where they were served to the Olympic athletes. And it's no wonder they have been around so long! Simple to make and undeniably irresistible, Cheesecake celebrates this most beloved of desserts. A chapter on the Classics includes simple Baked Vanilla, Raspberry Ripple and Chocolate Chip cheesecakes. Whatever the time of year, Fruity cheesecakes are the best way to enjoy whatever is in season; try Strawberry and Clotted Cream, Pink Rhubarb or Bananas Foster. For those with the most incurable of sweet tooths, Candy Bar cheesecakes are packed with your favourite confections - from peanut brittle to candied maple pecans - while Gourmet recipes add a touch of contemporary sophistication, including Salted Honey and Crème Brulée varieties. Party cheesecakes offer truly original ideas for brightening any occasion, from pretty Trifle Cheesecakes in glass jars to irresistible Cheesecake Pops! And finally, International skips over the globe to bring you cheesecakes in flavours such as Japanese Cherry Blossom and Italian Tiramisu.

Leseprobe

cheesecake

cheesecake

classic and original recipes for heavenly desserts

Hannah Miles

photography by Steve Painter

To Gregg Wallace and John Torode, Masterchef Judges extraordinaire and lovers of a good buttery biscuit base!

DESIGN, PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING Steve Painter

EDITOR Rebecca Woods

HEAD OF PRODUCTION Patricia Harrington

ART DIRECTOR Leslie Harrington

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Julia Charles

FOOD STYLIST Lucy McKelvie

FOOD STYLIST’S ASSISTANT Ellie Jarvis

ILLUSTRATIONS Tinckelly Illustration

INDEXER Hilary Bird

First published in 2013 by

Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

519 Broadway, 5th Floor

New York, NY 10012

www.rylandpeters.com

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text © Hannah Miles 2013

Design, illustrations and photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2013

Printed in China

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

EISBN: 978-1-84975-679-2

ISBN: 978-1-84975-352-4

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library. US Library of Congress CIP data has been applied for.

NOTES

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• All eggs are large (UK) or extra large (US), unless otherwise specified. Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.

• When using cling film/plastic wrap in the oven, make sure you use a brand which is heatproof and suitable for this purpose.

• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

contents

introduction

classic cheesecakes

fruity cheesecakes

candy bar cheesecakes

gourmet cheesecakes

party cheesecakes

around the world cheesecakes

index

acknowledgments

introduction

Cheesecake, käsekuchen, tarta de queso, gâteau au fromage – however you know this delicious dessert, one thing is certain, the humble cheesecake has universal appeal. Almost every country in the world has its own cheesecake tradition and they are one of the world’s oldest desserts, with records dating cheesecakes back even as far as 200 BC. Quite frankly, I don’t know anyone who doesn’t love a slice of a good cheesecake! This book contains a wide variety of flavours and styles of cheesecake with something for every taste. For those who like rich indulgent cheesecakes, why not try the Rocky Road Cheesecake on page 61 or the Peanut Brittle Cheesecake on page 58, both decorated with indulgent candy toppings. For the more flavour adventurous of you, the Salty Honey Cheesecake on page 84 or the Toasted Marshmallow Cheesecake Pie on page 118, are both quirky but utterly delicious! For those who like a good old-fashioned cheesecake, then the Classic Cheesecake chapter is for you with recipes for traditional baked Simply Vanilla Cheesecake, New York Cheesecake and even the classic 1970s retro throwback – Fruits of the Forest Cheesecake. For an extravagant dessert, why not serve the Profiterole Cheesecake on page 96, inspired by the classic French croquembouche and complete with a crown of spun sugar, or turn to page 83 for the Hibiscus, Raspberry and Pomegranate Cheesecake decorated spectacularly with hibiscus flowers and caramel sugar swirls. Whatever your favourite flavour, there is a delicious cheesecake recipe in this book for you.

TYPES OF CHEESECAKE

There are three main types of cheesecake. The classic cheesecake is a baked cheesecake, baked at a low temperature in the oven and set with eggs. The resulting dessert is rich and dense and you need only serve small slices for each portion. The popular New York Cheesecake (now eaten all over the world), such as the recipe on page 19 is the perfect example of a baked cheesecake.

Gelatine cheesecakes are the second type of cheesecake and are very different from baked cheesecakes – they are light and airy and don’t require any cooking. People can often be intimidated by gelatine but these concerns are misplaced as it is really very easy to use. Using gelatine combined with cream cheese and cream gives a delicate cheesecake with a creamy consistency, without being overly heavy – making it possible to eat a much larger portion! My favourite recipe in this book – the Plum Crumble Cheesecake on page 49 – is a gelatine cheesecake and I could eat slice after slice!

The third type of cheesecake – a refrigerator cheesecake – is by far the easiest, simply whisking together soft cheese and crème fraîche with flavouring and leaving to set in the refrigerator overnight. These cheesecakes are not as light as gelatine cheesecakes but are particularly delicious flavoured with citrus, for example the Blueberry and Lemon Cheesecake on page 15. For a Christmassy cheesecake, why not try the Peppermint Bark Cheesecake on page 73?

Traditionally all of the above cheesecakes have a crumb base made with crushed biscuits/cookies and melted butter. The most common biscuit/cookie used is the humble digestive biscuit or graham cracker but as you will see from the recipes in this book, it is possible to use almost any type of biscuit or cookie – choc chip hazelnut, Oreos, custard creams or chocolate oat cookies all work well and the Jelly and Custard Cheesecake base on page 114 is even made with pink wafers! It is possible, however, to make cheesecakes without a biscuit/cookie base, which is particularly good for those who can’t eat gluten. To replace the crunch of the biscuit/cookie crumbs, you can substitute a layer of toasted nuts, such as in the Crunchy Almond Cheesecake on page 99. Some of the cheesecakes in this book have been made with a cake base, which gives an altogether softer consistency but is no less delicious. Examples of these are the Japanese Cherry Blossom Cheesecake on page 134, which has a delicate green tea-flavoured sponge base and the Strawberry and Cream Cheesecake on page 54, which has a glutenfree almond sponge base. Once you have got the hang of the basic cheesecake recipes, you can experiment with different bases of your choosing.

CLASSIC CHEESECAKE INGREDIENTS

The ingredients required to make cheesecake are very simple and are readily available. Unsurprisingly, every cheesecake is made with cheese but there are many different varieties you can use.

Cream cheese is the most common cheese used in cheesecakes and is available in all supermarkets. It is important that you bring cream cheese to room temperature before using so that it is easier to mix and doesn’t form lumps in the cheesecake batter.

Mascarpone cheese is a light and creamy cheese originating from Italy. It is slightly sweeter than cream cheese and is commonly used in the Italian dessert, tiramisù. It is perfect in refrigerator cheesecakes, combined with crème fraîche.

Ricotta is not technically a cheese as it is produced from whey, a byproduct of cheese making. It has a more solid texture than cream cheese and needs to be beaten well to make it smooth enough to use in cheesecake recipes. It is often used in Italian recipes and appears in many of the cheesecake recipes in this book.

Quark is a curd cheese and is very popular in Germany, although it is readily available in supermarkets in the UK and some in the USA (if you can’t find it, you could substitute farmer cheese). It has a creamy consistency (quite similar to fromage frais) and slightly sour flavour, which is very refreshing in cheesecakes.

Twaróg is a Polish cheese that is similar to cottage cheese and is used to make the popular Polish cheesecake sernik. It comes in both natural and low-fat varieties and is available in good supermarkets and in Polish delicatessens. It has a firm consistency and needs to be passed through a fine mesh sieve/strainer or processed in a food processor before using otherwise your cheesecake will have a grainy texture.

Eggs are an essential component of baked cheesecakes as they enable the cheesecake to set. Always use the best quality eggs you can afford as they make a difference to the flavour and colour of a cheesecake. All eggs in the recipes in this book are large (UK) or extra large (US).

Gelatine – like many people, I used to face using gelatine with fear and trepidation. Such fear is unfounded as gelatine is easy to use and is a perfect setting agent for non baked cheesecakes. The recipes in this book are made with sheets of leaf gelatine, easily available in supermarkets, which are soaked in water to soften them, then squeezed out before being dissolved in a warm liquid. It is important that the liquid is only warm and not hotter as putting gelatine into boiling liquid will affect the setting properties. If you want to substitute powdered gelatine in any of the recipes in this book then, generally, 4 sheets of leaf gelatine equate to 25 g/1 oz. of powdered gelatine. This will depend on the bloom properties of the gelatine so always check the packet of your gelatine powder as they will have conversion rates on them. There is no need to soak the powdered gelatine before using, simply sprinkle it over the warm liquid in the recipe and whisk in thoroughly.

Sweeteners – all dessert cheesecakes need to be sweetened. The recipes in this book use white, brown and muscovado sugars, maple, corn and golden syrups, condensed milk, honey and icing/confectioners’ sugar as sweeteners. The level of sweetness in a cheesecake is very much a matter of personal taste, so always add the sweetener gradually and taste for sweetness before adding the remainder if you do not like overly sweet desserts.

MAKING LOWER FAT CHEESECAKES

I am not going to deny it – classic cheesecakes are quite calorie laden. Purists may argue that using lower fat substitutes don’t give as good a result, but whilst that might have some truth, it is perfectly possible to substitute reduced fat cream cheese, double/heavy cream, ricotta and mascarpone for their full fat counterparts in these recipes if you prefer. You can also reduce the sugar content or use a sugar substitute if you wish. The only thing I would avoid is replacing the butter in the biscuit/cookie crumb base with low-fat spreads as they simply don’t taste nearly as nice. Instead, cut out the butter altogether by replacing the biscuit/cookie base with a layer of toasted nuts, which won’t require any butter other than for lightly greasing the pan.

BASIC EQUIPMENT

Very little equipment is needed for making a cheesecake. You will need an electric mixer, balloon whisk or stand mixer for whisking together the cheesecake mixture to ensure there are no lumps and a blender or rolling pin to create the biscuit/cookie crumbs for the base. You also need a good quality springform cake pan. These have a loose base and removable sides, which make it easier to remove the cheesecake from the pan and transfer to a serving plate. You must ensure that your cheesecake pan is tightly fitting otherwise the cheesecake mixture may leak or water may seep into the cheesecake if you are baking it in a waterbath. To test whether the pan seals properly, pour some water into the pan before greasing to check that it does not leak. Wrapping the the pan in a layer of cling film/plastic wrap will also prevent water getting into the pan (see Cooking Baked Cheesecakes).

Lining the cheesecake pan

Because of the fairly fragile nature of cheesecakes, particularly gelatine cheesecakes, removing them from the pan can be a tricky business. Always use a springform pan for best results and slide a knife around the edge of the cheesecake before releasing the sides of the base. Line the base of the pan with non-stick baking paper so that you can easily lift the cheesecake from the base. When you do so, make sure that your serving plate is very close at hand so that you don’t have to move the cheesecake too far. Sliding a round-bladed knife under the cheesecake base will free it from the bottom of the cake pan.

COOKING BAKED CHEESECAKES

One essential element when baking cheesecakes is a consistent temperature, as changes in temperature can cause a cheesecake to crack (see Troubleshooting). One of the best ways to avoid this is to cook the cheesecake in a waterbath to ensure that the whole of the cheesecake is cooked at an even temperature. To create the waterbath you need a deep roasting pan which is larger than the size of your cheesecake pan. Wrap the outside of the cheesecake pan with a good layer of heatproof cling film/plastic wrap to prevent any water leaking into the cheesecake. If the pan does leak, it will make the base of the cheesecake soggy, which is definitely something to be avoided. Prepare the cheesecake in the wrapped pan, then place into the roasting pan and fill the roasting pan with water so that water comes about half way up the side of your cheesecake pan. Bake in the oven until the cheesecake is set with a slight wobble in the centre.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Cheesecakes are easy to make and do not often go wrong, although there are a few common issues that can arise:

Cheesecake is not properly set

If the recipe is a gelatine cheesecake, you need to make sure that you measure the ingredients very carefully as the gelatine will only set a certain quantity of liquid. Use a measuring jug or cups to measure all liquids accurately. It is also worth making sure you check the packet of any gelatine that has been sitting in the kitchen cupboard for a while as if it is past its ‘use by’ date this may affect its setting properties.

If a baked cheesecake has not set, it has not been cooked for long enough. The length of time you need to bake the cheesecake will depend on the actual temperature in your oven as not all ovens cook at the same temperature. (You may find it worthwhile investing in an oven thermometer.) It is best to judge whether a cheesecake is cooked by eye. It needs to be set almost completely but should still have a slight wobble in the centre. The cheesecake will continue to cook slightly from the heat of the pan as it cools, so will be perfectly set by the time it is cold. If the whole cheesecake wobbles, it has not been cooked for long enough. Return it to the oven and bake a little longer before checking again.

Cheesecake cracks on top

Cheesecakes can crack on top if they are baked at too high a temperature or if they undergo a rapid change in temperature. It is best to cook cheesecake for a long time at a low oven temperature, rather than at a high heat. When the cheesecake is cooked you can turn off the heat and leave the cheesecake to cool in the oven as the gradual decrease in temperature is ideal for cooling the cheesecake and helps prevent cracking. Cheesecakes are also less likely to crack if, before cooling, you slide a round-bladed knife around the edge of the sides of the pan. As the cheesecake cools it will shrink and if it is stuck to the sides of the pan this can cause cracking. However cracking does not affect the taste of the cheesecake and any cracks can easily be disguised under a cheesecake topping.

Lumpy cheesecake batter

As mentioned above, it is important to bring cream cheese to room temperature before using to prevent lumps. Always whisk the ingredients together well. If your mixture is still lumpy, strain it through a sieve/strainer, then press through any lumps with the back of a spoon and return to the mixture.

STORING AND FREEZING CHEESECAKES

Cheesecakes store well and I actually find they are best eaten a day or so after they have been made as the flavours have time to develop. It is important that you properly chill your cheesecakes before serving them as lukewarm cheesecakes are not very nice at all. All the cheesecakes in this book should be stored in the refrigerator (in a sealed container or wrapped with cling film/plastic wrap) as they contain dairy products, and will keep for up to a week, although cheesecakes topped with fresh cream or fresh fruit toppings really need to be eaten within 2–3 days.

Some cheesecakes can be frozen so make the ideal standby or prepare-ahead dessert. Gelatine does not freeze well so I do not recommend freezing any of the recipes in this book that contain gelatine. However both baked and refrigerator cheesecakes (which do not contain gelatine) freeze well. You should make the cheesecake following the recipe but do not decorate it. Once the cheesecake has cooled completely and is set, remove from the pan and transfer it to a plate or baking sheet. Wrap the cheesecake carefully in several layers of cling film/plastic wrap and transfer to the freezer. Once the cheesecake has frozen, you can remove the plate or baking sheet, rewrap the cheesecake and return to the freezer. Store in the freezer in this way for up to a month for best results. Alternatively, you can cut a baked cheesecake into slices and freeze as individual portions if you prefer. Always freeze the cheesecake without its topping. To defrost, place the cheesecake on a plate in the refrigerator and leave to defrost overnight, then prepare any cheesecake topping following the steps in the recipe.

classic cheesecakes

simply vanilla cheesecake

This cheesecake is simple but is always popular with my friends and family – no frills, no fuss, just a good old fashioned vanilla. It is delicious served with fresh berries of your choice and a little pouring cream.

FOR THE CRUMB CASE

300 g/10½ oz. digestive biscuits/graham crackers

150 g/1¼ sticks butter, melted

FOR THE FILLING

600 ml/2½ cups crème fraîche

750 g/3⅓ cups cream cheese

4 eggs

400 g/1¾ cups condensed milk

2 tablespoons plain/all-purpose flour, sifted

1 vanilla pod/bean

TO SERVE

fresh berries of your choice

pouring cream

a 26-cm/10-inch round springform cake pan, greased and lined

SERVES 12

Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F) Gas 3.