The Gluten-free Baker E-Book

Hannah Miles

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2014

Beschreibung

Baking is the most difficult aspect of the gluten-free diet to overcome, but using clever substitutes and ingenious baking methods, experienced baker Hannah Miles has created a delicious selection of gluten-free versions of everyone's favourites. Cookies, Brownies & Bars include Ginger Cookies, Caramel Shortbreads and White Chocolate and Walnut Brownies. A chapter devoted to Cakes provides inspiration for birthdays and other special occasions - try Apple and Pecan Cake; Caramelized Lemon Polenta Cake or Carrot and Coconut Cake. Small Bakes for every day include Buttermilk Scones and Apricot Cornmeal Muffins. Fantastic Breads to try are Perfect Pizza Dough, Bagels and Sunshine Cornbread. Pastry treats to try include Chocolate Profiteroles, Blackcurrant and Blueberry Millefeuille and Nectarine and Cream Choux Rings. Finally, Desserts include Plum and Amaretto Crumble and Toffee Apple Cheesecake. This book is a must for the gluten intolerant or for those who bake for gluten-intolerant family members or friends. Lawyer and 2007 MasterChef finalist, Hannah Miles has developed a second career as a cake maker and food writer.

Leseprobe

For my friend Lucy, the inspiration for this book.

Introduction

Several years ago my very good friend Lucy was diagnosed as having a gluten intolerance. The time before she was diagnosed was very frightening as the doctors couldn’t seem to find out what was making her so ill. She was in pain a lot of the time, completely lacking in energy and ended up in hospital on several occasions. When she was eventually diagnosed as having a gluten intolerance, it seemed incredible that something as simple as wheat could have made her so poorly. Having got over the initial relief that her illness was not life threatening, the next hurdle was a change of diet, which didn’t prove as easy as Lucy had hoped. Whilst there are quite a few gluten-free products available in supermarkets, not all of them are particularly palatable. Lucy found that items were often powdery and had a chemical taste and just weren’t adequate substitutes for the cakes, breads and pastry that she missed. Eating out was also difficult as not everywhere catered for those on gluten-free diets. Those that said they did would invariably offer coconut macaroons as the only choice. When we tried a ‘gluten-free afternoon tea’ in a top London hotel our expectations were high, so you can imagine our disappointment when we cut into the gluten-free scones and they literally crumbled to dust. By this time I had realized that there had to be a better solution to easy gluten-free baking.

I read a lot of books on gluten-free cooking to try and help Lucy find some new recipes. These seemed to require endless combining of different flours and a lengthy list of non-storecupboard ingredients. There seemed to be no clear explanation of which flour to use when and in what quantities. All in all it was very intimidating even for someone who bakes as much as I do. What I wanted was some good basic recipes that used ingredients that I was familiar with, gluten-free plain and self-raising flours, ground nuts, polenta, desiccated coconut and such like. Ready-combined flours seemed the simplest solution and avoided the need for combining many different types of gluten-free flour – such as tapioca, potato and rice – as they have already been combined by the manufacturers in what I imagine must be the best possible combination following rigorous testing. Using these ready-blended flours lets you bake as you would with regular flour and achieve excellent results. Keep two or three bags in the kitchen storecupboard and you can bake perfect gluten-free cakes, breads and pastry whenever needed. It is then just a question of understanding the characteristics of the particular gluten-free flours you are using, and adding other ingredients to provide the extra moisture needed and plenty of flavour.

One thing I have noticed about most people who suffer from a gluten intolerance is that they don’t want to stand out as different from other people – they just want to be served something ‘normal’ and not be made to feel like they are causing inconvenience. The aim of this book is therefore simple: to make things that taste so good that you would never know they were gluten-free. You can serve these recipes to the whole family and all of your friends and no one will notice the difference. It also means you will avoid the need to bake two different recipes for the one occasion!

This book aims to provide delicious alternatives to those favourite recipes that people suffering from coeliac disease or gluten intolerance miss the most – pastries, breads and cakes – simple home-baking that when you are first diagnosed seem like an impossibility. With a little know-how and some simple ingredients, this book will return you to baking.

Fortunately, food manufacturers, restaurants and shops are now offering a more comprehensive range of gluten-free products, reflecting the increased understanding and recognition of gluten intolerance, but there are few things nicer than tucking into something you have baked yourself. I hope that this book will give you the tools to realize that being unable to eat gluten doesn’t mean you can’t be a home baker and rustle up delicious warm baked treats for yourself and others. So don your apron, get out your whisk and start baking today!

What is Coeliac Disease?

Coeliac disease is an auto-immune disease, which affect the intestines, leading to poor absorption of gluten. Symptoms of coeliac disease can leave those affected feeling very unwell and lacking in energy, as well as having an upset stomach and other symptoms. There is currently no cure for the condition but it can be managed well with a change in diet. It is important that medical advice is taken by anyone who feels they might be experiencing a sensitivity to gluten, to ascertain whether they are a coeliac or are experiencing an allergic reaction to gluten and/or wheat. Each person’s symptoms are unique – some people will be able to eat some ingredients that cause problems for others. Testing is available and it is important to take steps to understand what is safe for you to eat. For my friend Lucy, this was a steep learning curve but within a few months she knew which brands of chocolate, poppadoms and stock cubes didn’t contain gluten and were safe for her to enjoy Sometimes coeliac disease is also coupled with other allergies and you may find that some other products, which are gluten-free, also make you unwell. With time and experience you will have a clear understanding of your own limitations.

Gluten is present in varying levels in wheat, barley and rye cereals and also sometimes in oats, although this is thought most likely caused by cross-contamination with other cereals. Some sensitive to gluten can eat oats and as these are a good staple ingredient in baking, some of the recipes in this book use them but always make sure you buy brands labelled ‘gluten-free’ to be safe. You should always check, however, whether the person you are baking for is intolerant to oats.

Managing a Gluten-free Diet

Whilst it is easy to avoid products that obviously contain wheat and gluten – bread, cakes, pasta – there are a variety of products that contain traces of gluten, some of which are not obvious. It is not always easy to avoid such pitfalls and it is therefore essential to carefully check the ingredients list on product packaging or refer to the manufacturer to ensure that products are gluten-free. At the outset of a gluten-free diet you may find it helps to keep a food diary to record what you eat as this can help to identify problem foods that have made you ill. Some brands of a type of product may be gluten-free whereas others may not – very careful reading of ingredients labels is always essential. Nowadays many products are labelled as ‘gluten-free’, which makes life much easier.

All forms of wheat, barley, rye and spelt must be avoided. This means that regular flours and breads are out, as well as wheat-based products, such as beer and pasta. Gluten is also commonly used by food manufacturers in a wide variety of food preparation and can be found in ready-meals and pre-produced food. A small trace of wheat used as a thickener in a sauce may make you really unwell but checking the labelling will help you to spot unsafe ingredients. Products that are coated in breadcrumbs are also not suitable for people with gluten intolerance.

You need to be extra vigilant at all stages of cooking. It is so easy to take a packet from the kitchen cupboard and add to a recipe without checking whether the item contains gluten – I have found myself doing this on occasion and have just stopped myself in time. I once made stock from chicken bones of a roast chicken, but the chicken had contained a breadcrumb stuffing so there was a good chance that the stock was contaminated with gluten. Luckily I remembered in time before serving to my friend who is a coeliac. With time and practice you will become familiar with which ingredients are safe and which are not. The best advice is just to take a bit of time before you start cooking. Assemble all of your ingredients and check that they are all safe to use before starting to cook.

Some of the less obvious products that contain gluten include:

Anti-caking agents – these are used to prevent clumping and sticking together of ingredients during food production and can contain traces of wheat. Anti-caking agents are commonly found in some icing/confectioners’ sugars and dried fruits. When using these sugars and dried fruits always check the labels carefully to ensure that they do not contain an anti-caking agent. Powdered fondant icing sugar (which contains glucose) and unrefined icing/confectioners’ sugar do not generally contain an anti-caking agent and can be used to make glacé, royal and butter icings/frostings successfully. When selecting dried fruit, choose those brands that are separated using a light coating of oil rather than an anti-caking agent.

Yeast – some dried yeasts contain wheat as a bulking agent. For safe gluten-free baking, use either fresh yeast or a gluten-free dried yeast, both of which are stocked by most supermarkets and health food shops.

Baking powder – some baking powders contain wheat. Many manufacturers are now using rice flour in place of wheat flour and so gluten-free baking powder is now more commonly available in supermarkets.

Dried milk powder/non-fat dry milk – for a while Lucy couldn’t understand why she felt ill after eating shop-bought ice cream and chocolate. We discovered that some milk powders/non-fat dry milk are bulked out with wheat. In addition, some coeliacs cannot tolerate white or milk chocolate because lactose intolerance is associated with coeliac disease, although it is a temporary condition in the vast majority of people that rectifies itself after a person establishes themselves on a gluten-free diet.

Malt products – malted drinks should all be avoided as they are wheat based, but malt extract can usually be tolerated in small amounts, e.g. in breakfast cereals. Malt vinegar is suitable as the protein is removed in the processing.

Soy sauce and Worcestershire sauce – these also contain gluten so look out for gluten-free brands.

Processed meat products – products such as sausages, salamis and pâtés can contain traces of wheat so always read the labels carefully.

Sauces, gravy powders, stocks (cubes and liquid) and powdered spices – these can sometimes be bulked out with wheat products so again always check the labels carefully.

Instant coffees – some contain wheat as a bulking agent. Fresh ground coffee, which can be used to make espresso or filter coffee in a machine can be used instead as these generally do not contain any gluten.

Glacé cherries – these can contain gluten. Use fresh cherries or preserved cherries as a good substitute in baking, they always taste nicer anyway in my opinion!

Sour cream – some processes for making sour cream use wheat so it is important to use a brand that is ‘pure’ and gluten-free. Checking the manufacturers’ website will assist with this.

The above list is not exhaustive but should give you a good idea of just how rigorous you have to be with product checking when you are cooking for someone with a gluten intolerance.

Gluten-free Baking

The key to successful gluten-free baking is to understand the ingredients and their properties. Gluten gives elasticity to the doughs from which breads and cakes are made. Gluten-free substitutes lack this elasticity and need to be handled slightly differently. The one good thing is that as the doughs are not elastic, bread doughs need no kneading, sparing your arm muscles somewhat! Generally speaking, gluten-free doughs and mixes require a lot more liquid than wheat-based recipes and if there is not enough liquid the items will have a powdery texture and crumble when you cut them. Adding natural yogurt, buttermilk or sour cream to cake mixtures will result in moist cakes. Pastry can be very crumbly without the elasticity of gluten and must be very carefully worked. Adding cheese to savoury pastry or cream cheese to sweet pastry can help bind the dough together. Rather than rolling the pastry out into large sheets that are likely to crumble when lifted, the best method for lining a pastry case is to gently press in small pieces of the pastry dough into the tin/pan until it is lined entirely with a thin layer of pastry.

Some gluten-free flours can have a slightly bitter taste that can spoil the flavour of baked goods. The best way to mask this is to make sure that each recipe is packed full of flavour.

The Gluten-free Baking Pantry

For successful baking you need to equip yourself with a few basic ingredients. Once you have developed confidence from following these recipes, you can then experiment with other recipes. Below is a list of essential ingredients you will need for baking the recipes from this book.

Gluten-free blended flours – there is now a wide variety of gluten-free flours available in supermarkets and wholefood stores and these are the easiest flours to start with. They are ready mixed and are specifically designed to give the best results. In the UK three types are available – plain flour for cookies and pastry, self-raising flour for cakes and some breads, and strong white flour for breads and some pastries. In the US all-purpose flour is available but I’ve yet to find a self-raising/rising one so have tested the recipes in this book with Bob’s Red Mill gluten-free all-purpose baking flour, adding gluten-free baking powder and xanthan gum, which gives a very good result. Whilst you can combine your own mixes of rice, potato and cornflour/cornstarch, it is more convenient to use these ready-mixed flours.

Buckwheat flour – contrary to its name, buckwheat does not contain any wheat at all. It is made from the seeds of a flowering plant that is associated with the rhubarb family. The seeds look similar to beechnuts and it is a common misunderstanding that this flour is made from beechnuts. The flour has a strong taste, which can be quite overpowering and slightly medicinal if used in large quantities. This flour is ideal for pancakes and blinis and can be used in some cakes. (Be aware that a very small number of people experience an allergic reaction to buckwheat so it’s always essential to check with the person you are baking for.)

Chestnut flour – this is made from ground sweet chestnuts and has a delicious smoky flavour. Due to this smokiness, however, it is only really suitable for savoury recipes.

Gram flour – this is made from ground chickpeas and is often used in Indian cookery. It can be used to make pakora and bhajis and also various Indian flatbreads. Most poppadoms are made with gram flour but it is important to check that it has not been combined with wheat flour. Italian farina di ceci is a similar product and can be substituted.

Coconut flour – this is made from dried coconut flesh, which has been ground to a fine powder. You can make your own by grinding desiccated coconut to a fine powder in a food processor and then sifting it, although if your desiccated coconut is sweetened you will need to reduce the sugar in the recipe and check that the desiccated coconut does not contain any wheat as an anti-caking agent or coating.

Cornflour/cornstarch – this is made from finely ground grains of corn. It is an excellent thickener and can be used in sauces.

Polenta/cornmeal – this is a useful staple of gluten-free baking. Coarse grains can be cooked in water to a thick paste and added to cakes and breads to give a lovely golden colour, moist texture and rich flavour. Fine meal is more like flour in texture and can be used in breads and muffins.

Almond meal and ground almonds – almond meal is a coarse ground flour which contains the skin of the whole almonds. It is therefore darker in texture than ground almonds and is ideal in cookies and cakes. Ground almonds are one of the most common ingredients in this book as they make cakes very moist and do not have a strong flavour so can carry other flavours well. You can make you own ground almonds or almond meal by blitzing whole or skinned almonds in a food processor. When buying ready ground almonds check the ingredients as some cheap varieties include breadcrumbs as a bulking agent (and therefore gluten).

Nuts – a lot of the recipes in this book use other ground nuts, such as pecans, walnuts and hazelnuts. They are an ideal replacement for flour – they create a moist texture and add delicious flavour. If you do not have the nut called for in the recipe you can generally substitute another nut in its place. By grinding the nuts in a food processor until very fine then combining them with a small amount of gluten-free flour they make an ideal substitute.

Gluten-free baking powder – this is an essential raising/rising agent and is used to make cakes and breads rise during baking.

Xanthan gum – this is used in gluten-free baking to bind, thicken and stabilize ingredients and is ideal for use in doughs, pastry and breads. It’s made by fermenting corn sugar with a microbial bacteria and is used extensively in the food industry.

Extra virgin coconut oil – this is usually sold in jars in a set form and adds a delicious coconut flavour to recipes.

Flavouring agents – vanilla and almond extracts are ideal for masking the sometimes mildly unpleasant ‘flavour’ of gluten-free flours. Always check the labelling to ensure that flavourings are gluten-free.

Dairy ingredients – these are essential for moist, non-crumbly cakes – in this book the recipes use buttermilk, plain yogurt and sour cream. Again it is essential to check the product labels as some creams may contain traces of gluten. If you prefer you can make your own sour cream by adding the juice of a lemon to 300 ml/1¼ cups double/heavy cream. If you do not have the liquid ingredient called for in the recipe you can easily substitute – for example if you do not have buttermilk available mix together half milk and half plain yogurt to the same quantity of buttermilk. The results will be equally delicious.

Syrups and honeys – pure maple syrup, golden/light corn syrup, treacle and honey are all gluten-free and are delicious sweeteners in baking recipes.

Oats – not all people who are intolerant to gluten are able to eat oats. If in doubt do not use them. However there are many people who are intolerant to gluten who are able to eat oats but make sure you choose brands labelled gluten-free to be safe.

Eggs – eggs do not contain gluten and are used in most of the recipes in this book. By separating the eggs and whisking the egg whites separately and folding into a cake batter, you can add additional air to your cakes, making them light and delicious.

Butter and fats – some margarines may contain gluten so it is best to use good-quality unsalted butter in all recipes to remain gluten-free.

Alcohols – this can be a slightly confusing area for those who are gluten-intolerant. Beer is made with hops and so must be avoided. Some brands of whiskey (and cream-based whiskey liqueurs) may contain gluten from the caramel colouring which is added, although pure whiskey does not contain gluten. Before using any alcohol check with the manufacturer to ascertain whether it is gluten-free.

Avoiding Contamination

One key requirement of successful gluten-free baking is to avoid cross-contamination. If you have a member of the family who is intolerant to gluten, the best solution is to remove all products containing gluten from the house. Whilst this is the most effective way to avoid the risk of cross contamination, I recognize that this is not always practical. Where total removal is not possible, the best advice is to keep gluten-free products in sealed containers in a separate place away from products containing gluten. Label everything clearly so that there can be no confusion as to what is gluten-free.

If you have been baking with regular flour, small particles will have been released into the air during cooking can land on cooking equipment, surfaces and even kitchen towels and leave traces of gluten. It is therefore important to wipe down all equipment, surfaces and utensils thoroughly and use clean cloths and aprons. It takes a surprisingly small amount of exposure to gluten to make someone ill.

Cross-contamination is also possible through using kitchen appliances and equipment, such as toasters, baking sheets and wire racks. Silicone sleeves (Toastabags) can be used to shield toasters from gluten contamination or, if possible, have a separate toaster and other similar appliances just for gluten-free products. Also consider investing in some silicon mats that you can set aside just for gluten-free baking. It is also important to avoid putting knives and spoons that have been exposed to gluten into butters, spreads and jams/jellies as these can also cause contamination. If it is practical have separate tubs and jars clearly labelled as ‘gluten-free’. Where possible store these away from products that may contain traces of gluten.

Where to Go for Advice

If you believe that you may have a gluten intolerance or coeliac disease, it is essential to seek professional medical advice. Once you have been diagnosed with either, there are many sources of information available to you. The Coeliac Societies in the UK and USA are able to provide a large amount of advice and support. Local support groups can also offer guidance on managing day-to-day life without gluten. In addition, there are a wide variety of books on this subject and some fantastic resources are available on-line offering a wealth of information. Particularly useful are the forums where coeliacs can communicate with each other and share advice on all aspects of living and enjoying a gluten-free lifestyle.

cookies, brownies & bars

chocolate chip cookies

These giant chocolate chip cookies will put a smile on everyone’s face. Delicious with a glass of ice-cold milk, packed full of dark and white chocolate, they are a perfect home-coming treat. It is important that the chocolate you use does not contain milk powder as this can contains gluten so check the labels carefully. Gluten-free white chocolate buttons are available in most larger supermarkets.

125 g/1 stick plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

125 g/⅔ cup caster/ granulated sugar

125 g/½ cup dark soft brown sugar

150 g/1 cup plus 2 tablespoons gluten-free plain/all-purpose baking flour

1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda/baking soda

100 g/1 cup ground almonds

1 egg, beaten

60 ml/¼ cup buttermilk

100 g/3½ oz dark chocolate, chopped

100 g/3½ oz white chocolate buttons

2 baking sheets, greased and lined

Makes about 20 cookies

Preheat the oven to 180˚C (350˚F) Gas 4.

Put the butter and both sugars in a mixing bowl and cream together. Add the flour, bicarbonate of soda/baking soda, ground almonds, egg and buttermilk and whisk well until everything is incorporated. Mix in the dark chocolate and white chocolate buttons with a wooden spoon.

Put 20 tablespoonfuls of the mixture on the prepared baking sheets, leaving a gap between each one as the cookies will spread during baking. (You may need to bake in batches depending on the size of your baking sheets.)

Bake in the preheated oven for about 10–12 minutes, until the cookies are golden brown. Leave to cool on the baking sheets for a few minutes then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

These cookies will keep for up to 5 days if stored in an airtight container.